How to propagate climbing roses by cuttings and layering

Propagation by lignified cuttings

Lignified cuttings should be harvested in late autumn, during the process of pruning rose bushes.
Rooting such planting material is quite a troublesome task, but quite feasible in the conditions of home gardening. During a warm winter period, it is possible to preserve rose bushes without freezing, and lignified cuttings from parent plants can be cut even in the spring. If the planting material was cut in the autumn, when preparing the plants for winter, then the cuttings can be taken:

• store until spring with further rooting in a special cuttings or greenhouse;
• plant directly into the ground in the fall, before the onset of cold weather;
• root in seedling containers at home.

The cuttings should have approximately 6-8 eyes and have a thickness of 0.4-0.5 cm. All planting material should be cut from the middle part of the shoot, making an oblique lower and straight upper cut using a sharp and absolutely clean garden knife. Also, ready-made cuttings can be placed in damp moss, as well as polyethylene or peat, which will allow the planting material to be stored on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator until spring and planting in a permanent place.

Reproduction by root suckers

Most types of roses can be propagated using this method, including climbing roses. Climbing bushes form underground shoots ending in powerful aboveground stems. The division is carried out as follows:

1. A rooted shoot emerging from the soil is identified.
2. Use a small shovel to lightly dig out the soil around the stem.
3. Carefully clean the soil and identify the presence of roots.
4. If the shoot has roots, the young plant is cut off with a sharp shovel, and the cut is sprinkled with wood ash.
5. The shoot is transplanted to a permanent place or for growing.

If roots are not found, then this process can be accelerated by adding phosphorus-containing preparations that promote root formation. You can also use any types of rooting agents containing phytohormones and auxins.

Aftercare

After planting rooted cuttings in open ground, they require standard care: watering (as the top soil layer dries out), fertilizing, loosening the soil and removing weeds. When the bush grows, they begin to do formative pruning to give the crown a decorative appearance.

When choosing fertilizers for roses, consider the following factors:

• phosphorus is needed for abundant flowering;
• magnesium promotes chlorophyll synthesis;
• potassium is important for maintaining water balance in tissues;
• nitrogen stimulates the growth of green mass;
• calcium has a positive effect on the development of the root system.

Therefore, the complex is selected as rich as possible. Feed roses 2 times before flowering and the same amount after flowering. After watering and fertilizing, the root space should be mulched with peat or humus. In early spring, rose bushes are treated with contact-acting insecticidal preparations. For the winter, young plants are covered with leaves and other plant debris from the garden.

Which method to choose

Thanks to the tireless work of breeders, many varieties of roses have appeared that are perfectly acclimatized even in the climate of the Moscow region and Siberia. There are two known types of climbing flowers - multi-flowered (producing simultaneously up to 20 buds with a diameter of up to 2.5 cm each) and large-flowered (with 10 buds, similar to hybrid tea varieties).

Climbing roses are most often propagated by cuttings, by budding, or by layering. Since a plant obtained from seeds cannot have parental characteristics, this method is used extremely rarely in practice. Next, we will consider each of the main methods in more detail.

Propagation by cuttings

Reproduction by this method is possible with subsequent rooting of the shoots both in soil or water, and in a bag or potato. In order to propagate beautiful climbing roses from cuttings in summer or spring, shoots should be prepared. In the spring, the middle part with 3 live buds is taken from the shoot. You need to make a cut at the bottom at an angle of 45°, and at the top at an angle of 90°. The top of the leaf is shortened by half its length or even more.

Rooting can be done in a container with boiled water. The cutting is placed in it and placed in a place where it is shaded from the sun. The water must be changed every other day. In about a month, the seedling will have grown roots and will be ready to be planted in a permanent place. A problem with such rooting can be rotting of the shoot due to lack of oxygen.

Rooting of the resulting cuttings is often carried out immediately in the ground. To prevent rotting, sand scalded with boiling water and having large fractions is used. The cuttings should be covered with a glass jar, white material should be placed on top, or the container should be painted with water-based emulsion of the same color. Rooting occurs at a temperature of +23…+25 °C and periodic ventilation of the “greenhouse”. In order to propagate a rose by cuttings planted in potatoes, one digs a trench more than 15 cm deep. Having first filled the bottom with sand, a shoot about 20 cm in size without foliage and thorns is placed there. The eyes are removed from the potato to prevent it from starting to grow. A piece of tin or the same glass jar can serve as a shelter. When using a plastic bag, the cuttings are first moistened with aloe juice. Placed in a pot and watered with warm water, they are wrapped in a bag and hung near the window.

Reproduction by budding

Knowing how to propagate a climbing rose from cuttings, you can try other methods. Budding, unlike cuttings, can be carried out by gardeners with extensive practical experience. The concept itself comes from the Latin word oculus, which means “eye”. The essence of the method is to increment the scion to the rootstock in the presence of dormant buds. Budding is most often used only for large-flowered varieties - such as roses of the Climber class, New Dawn and Metanoia species.

Reproduction by layering

Obtaining a new crop in summer or spring is also possible with the help of layering. It is necessary to use those shoots that grow at the root collar. At the beginning of March, they are placed in prepared shallow grooves by bending them down, then covered with loose soil on top. In this case, the upper parts of the shoots must be outside. In those places where they touch the ground, you need to make ring cuts in order to stimulate the flow of nutrients.

Although the root system of the cuttings is formed by autumn, their separation cannot be carried out before next spring, and in the case of weak plants this is done after a year. In the climate of our country, the tops of climbing roses inevitably die off if they are not covered with snow. In this regard, shoots that are planned to be used as layering in the spring must be bent to the soil and covered with soil.

About other methods

In addition to these classic rooting methods, there are several other options.

Potato

The methods listed above have their drawbacks. There is little oxygen in the water and the plant can rot, and in the ground it can dry out due to lack of moisture. Inventive gardeners have come up with a clever way to avoid these dangers. They became rooted in potatoes

To do this, take a large potato tuber and clean it of all the eyes (this is very important, otherwise the potatoes will start to grow so much and spend their energy not on roses). A cutting is stuck into half of the tuber and planted 5-6 cm into the ground

In this form, the cutting overwinters well and grows until spring. And the tuber serves as additional feeding. In spring, the seedling is ready for transplanting. But it is better to immediately plant it in a place of permanent growth.

Packages

The point of this method is to create high humidity and evaporation. To do this, the prepared sections are wrapped in damp moss or peat moistened with a rooting agent and placed in a plastic bag. The bag is sealed and inflated, then placed in a sunny place. Due to the high humidity in the bag and artificial fog, the cuttings begin to grow faster and roots appear within a couple of weeks.

Burrito

This method gets its name from Mexican food. In the original, a burrito is a tortilla with filling inside. In our case, the cake will be newspaper, and the filling will be freshly cut rose branches.

The newspaper should be damp, but not wet. And the newspaper is kept in this wet form all the time until the roots appear. It is also permissible to wrap the package additionally with plastic wrap or place it in a bag.

This method is simple, but the likelihood of germination is extremely low.

How to propagate Chinese rose

To propagate hibiscus, which is another name for the Chinese rose, only cuttings are suitable. You need to cut off shoots that have 2 or 3 internodes. Cuttings can be taken exclusively from the top of the plant and only between July and August. They need to be placed in a home greenhouse. In such conditions, roots will quickly appear. As a greenhouse, you can use an ordinary flower pot, which is covered with a glass jar or plastic bottle with a cut bottom.

In loose soil, Chinese rose cuttings begin to develop roots within a month. Various manuals on how to propagate roses by cuttings in the fall say that after the rhizome appears, the plant should be immediately transplanted into a spacious pot. It is better if the diameter of the container is at least 9 cm. Next, you need to regularly water the plant with warm water.

If you need a lush bush shape, then the tip of each side shoot should be pinched from the developed cuttings. With sufficient care, a shoot can develop into a mature and flowering plant in one year. At the same time, the rose needs sufficient sunlight.

You can replant the Chinese rose for the second time in the spring. The pot needs to be filled with a nutrient mixture, which includes four parts of turf, three of foliage, and one each of humus and sand. Numerous sources provide advice on how to propagate and care for domestic roses. In order for young shoots to grow better, you need to cut each branch by a third. This should be done only after transplantation. It is at the ends of young shoots that hibiscus buds appear.

How to care for a rose after planting

In order to get powerful and healthy rose bushes that will curl in the future, you need to properly and regularly care for them. In general, growing roses does not involve troublesome care, but at the first stage of growth, after transplanting into open ground, it requires timely implementation of all necessary cultivation activities.

How to propagate rhododendron: cuttings, in the country

Further care for young bushes consists of a number of procedures described below.

Loosening and weeding

Weeds under plants should be removed as needed. It is recommended to loosen the soil after watering, when all the liquid has completely soaked into the soil. Any damage to the root system can lead to the death of the bush, so you should carry out the procedure carefully and carefully.

Watering

Watering should be done regularly. In especially dry summers, moisten the soil every day. You should not water the plant during the day, especially on clear days. It is better to carry out the procedure in the morning or evening.

Water for irrigation should not be tap water, as it contains many heavy metals and substances, especially chlorine, which leads to leaf chlorosis and other diseases. Cold liquid also provokes the appearance of diseases and root rotting.

Advice! Melt or river water at room temperature is suitable for irrigation.

Pest Control

It is necessary to visually inspect the bushes for the presence of pests more often. As soon as signs of their presence appear, destruction should immediately begin using special chemicals or folk remedies.

Feeding

After the young buds of the plant begin their formation and growth, you need to start feeding. To do this, it is best to purchase ready-made mineral fertilizers for climbing roses. The packaging of such preparations already indicates the required dosage, which will not harm the plants. Traditional methods can cause harm to small bushes; it is better to resort to such methods when caring for mature bushes.

In the first year after planting in open ground, flowers should gain leaf mass

Shelter for the winter

Before frosts, it is necessary to take care of reliable shelter for the bushes. First you need to hill up the tree trunk circle with a large amount of earth. Then cover the plant with dry leaves, spruce branches or humus.

Important! You cannot use non-breathable material, such as polyethylene, to cover bushes.

In the first year, young roses do not need pruning; the plants should actively gain growth and leaf mass.

Climbing roses can be propagated in various ways, and even a beginner can cope with each of these options. Subsequent care after proper planting will also not be a hassle. The main rule is that all activities must be carried out in a timely manner, then the bushes will decorate gardens or personal plots with their abundant colorful blooms for a long period and will never get sick.

When is the best time to take rose cuttings?

The first question that arises before a gardener is: when to plant cuttings in order to get strong, healthy roses.

Did you know? An interesting variety of roses, “Chameleon,” was developed in Japan. During the day, the flowers delight with a bright red hue, and at night they change color to snow-white.

The optimal period is June-July, during the budding phase, when the shoots are only slightly lignified. If the cutting process begins earlier, the solid substance will turn out to be immature. At the next stage, the awakening of the buds begins, and all the plant’s forces will be spent on their development, and not on the formation of the root system.

In addition, in the summer, roses take root faster and begin to grow intensively. In some varieties, the root system takes too long to form, and it seems that development is not happening. Such seedlings can “sleep” for months. For these roses, the optimal time for vegetative propagation is autumn.

Some gardeners advise cuttings to be carried out in the fall, after pruning. This is explained simply: the plant is preparing for a period of dormancy and accumulates nutrients as much as possible.

Propagation by cuttings

You won't surprise anyone by propagating roses from cuttings - this is the easiest and most effective way. In summer, you need to choose the most suitable twig - it should not be a thick, lignified shoot; a too fast-growing “fatty” shoot is also not suitable. It is best to stop on a young branch of the current year, 0.5–0.7 cm thick, even if a bud has appeared at its end.

The cuttings should be up to 15 cm long (experts say from 10 to 30 cm), contain 3-4 buds. The lower cut is made at an angle of forty-five degrees, 5 mm below the bud; some experienced gardeners advise simply tearing off the branch “with the heel”. The upper cut is made horizontal 1 cm above the kidney. It is better to cut off the lower leaves, leaving only the top 2, but they should also be shortened to 2–4 leaves. It would be a good idea to dip the top cut into melted wax or paraffin to protect the site of possible infection and reduce moisture evaporation. Leaves are trimmed for the same purpose.

The prepared cuttings are rooted in soil, water, potatoes or newspaper using the “burrito” method. The soil must be nutritious, it should be calcined or spilled with a hot saturated solution of potassium permanganate. A cutting is planted in a pot, glass, lower part of a plastic bottle or in the garden, watered abundantly, and then covered with a transparent container on top to create a greenhouse effect.

The best temperature will be +23–25 degrees, the lighting should be good, but not direct sunlight. The transparent cover sometimes needs to be removed to check the condition, humidity, or just to ventilate. After 4-6 weeks, new leaves or twigs appear - this means that the plant has taken root.

If rooting occurs in water, then it is better to use boiled water and change it more often. When rooted in a potato, this vegetable will provide the moist, nutrient-rich environment needed for roots to grow. Potatoes with cuttings are usually placed in a small ditch in the sand in a shaded part of the garden, protected from drafts.

The “burrito” method is that the prepared cuttings (they can be 1 cm thick) are wrapped in newspaper, thoroughly moistened, then placed in a plastic bag, checked and moistened if necessary every week. Roots also appear after approximately 4–6 weeks.

Propagation of roses by seeds

Roses can be grown with any seeds: purchased and collected from your own plantings. You need to collect the seeds as soon as the rose fruits begin to turn red (seeds from such boxes germinate better).

1. Cut the fruits and remove the seeds.
2. Wash them with a solution of water (a glass) and bleach (2 tsp).
3. Wash the seeds thoroughly to remove the bleach.
4. Soak them in a solution of 3% hydrogen peroxide for a day.
5. Check the seeds periodically; select those that float (they are unusable).

◊ Stratification (increased germination). Generously dampen a cloth (or cotton pads) with hydrogen peroxide. Place the seeds inside. Place all this carefully in a plastic bag.

Place it in a place with a temperature of +3-5° C. Such cooling helps to activate the seeds. Check them periodically and remove moldy ones.

You can do it even simpler: sow seeds for propagating roses in a container. Place the closed container in the same cool conditions. Ideal soil: a mixture of vermiculite (perlite) and regular fertile soil.

◊ Sowing seeds. The seeds hatch after 1.5-2 months. We will transplant them into the soil. When placing in holes, sprinkle the seeds with a root rot remedy (you can use Captan).

Instead of Captan, you can regularly spray the seeds with an aqueous solution of hydrogen peroxide, and then mulch with perlite.

Containers with planted seeds should be kept away from sunlight at room temperature and watered regularly. Shoots will appear after 3-4 weeks, and the first buds will appear in two months.

It is best to sow seeds for propagating roses in April. But keep in mind that the germination rate is very low, so you will need quite a lot of seed material.

Immediately divide the resulting seedlings into strong and weak. Transplant strong ones into separate pots, where they can bloom after just a few months.

Which breeding method to choose?

Walking past a beautifully blooming cascade of fragrant roses, you often wonder how a climbing rose reproduces. There are many methods: cuttings, seeds, layering. Any of these methods must be applied in summer or spring so that by the time of autumn planting the plant has grown a full-fledged root system.

Propagation by seeds is a difficult and painstaking task, only experienced gardeners can do it. This is due to the fact that a rose propagated in this way can be very different from the mother bush, which will greatly disappoint the owner.

The simplest methods of propagating climbing roses are cuttings and layering. By using one of these methods, you can get the plant you like in a short time. Cuttings can be taken from the bush you like without causing harm to it. For layering, only one shoot is used, since with this method of propagation the mother bush is greatly depleted.

Additional Tips

In order for the propagation of climbing roses to be effective and for all young plants to take root, it is recommended to plant them in an area where there is sufficient sun. It is a sunny place and timely watering that will allow you to get a lush, fragrant rose when propagated by any of the listed methods.

By decorating your garden with a climbing rose, you can be sure that the flower corner will attract attention. After all, a rose of any kind will provide an unforgettable experience when you get to know it closely. The smell, beauty, and grace of this flower will create a special mood and add elegance and modernity to the entire garden.

Cuttings

Propagating climbing roses by cuttings is the easiest and most effective way. It is better to do this in the summer or spring, when the young shoots have not yet become woody. The best option is young shoots of the current season, 0.7 cm thick.

Important! A woody cutting increases the survival time and reduces the rate of root formation.

Before you start planting, you need to cut the cuttings and prepare the soil for planting. The cuttings are cut 20–35 cm long. Each material should have several full-fledged buds. The lower cut is made below the kidney by 55 mm at an angle of 45 degrees, the upper cut is horizontally above the kidney by a centimeter. To prevent possible infection and reduce moisture evaporation, the upper cut is treated with wax or paraffin. Each cutting is left with two top leaves, cut in half.

Important! For 100% rooting, the cuttings are kept for several minutes in a solution of Kornevin or Epin.

Prepared cuttings are rooted in water or in nutritious, disinfected soil.

Rules for further care

Regardless of how the climbing rose was propagated (cuttings, seeds or cuttings), then it is necessary to provide it with the highest quality care. To grow a new bush and make it look beautiful, you will need to follow the recommendations below:

• It is strictly forbidden to plant roses in heavy clay soil, as well as in places where groundwater lies close.
• Since the plant has a root system located close to the surface of the earth, it requires regular, frequent watering.
• Seedlings need a hole with loose soil and slightly raised soil, which will prevent stagnation of water.
• Periodically, it is necessary to mulch the soil using sawdust and chopped straw.
• Regular feeding is needed so that the young plant gains strength in the fall and overwinters well. For this purpose, liquid complex fertilizers are used.

Growing roses is considered not only moral satisfaction, but also an opportunity to grow a miracle in the form of a beautiful bush with your own hands. For some people, this becomes a lifelong hobby. Beginning gardeners have a lot to learn, including propagation rules.

How to propagate a climbing rose by layering

Good results can be achieved by propagating bushes by layering. With this method, seedling rooting and survival rate are 100%.

When is the best time to plant cuttings?

How to root a rose from a bouquet at home

The work is carried out in the spring, when the soil is sufficiently warmed up, but the plant has not yet begun to grow. The bush must be pruned and treated against pests and diseases. Shoots are chosen that are strong and at least one year old.

You can also achieve good results by burying the shoot in late autumn. Already in July it will be possible to observe the development of the young bush.

How to do it right

The entire process of propagating a climbing rose by layering looks like this:

It is necessary to dig a furrow 40 cm deep

In a separate container, mix compost, humus and garden soil taken in equal parts. Fill the hole with the mixture to a depth of 20-25 cm. Take the lash horizontally into the furrow and press it firmly to the ground with pegs. Cover the shoot with prepared fertile soil and water well. The tip of the shoot should be secured with a garden clamp so that it does not rise up. It is very important to ensure that the soil does not dry out, watering once every two days. Every day in summer.

With regular watering and fertilizing, by the fall you will be able to see the germination of young plants, which indicates the formation of a powerful root system.

The plant is separated from the mother bush in late autumn, but it is better to do this in the spring. This way you can minimize the risk of freezing of a young, immature layer.

When propagating by layering, the lash must be cleared of foliage, leaving 5-7 leaves at the top of the shoot

Seedlings grown in this way will be able to bloom the next year. But experienced gardeners advise pruning, focusing on growing a powerful bush that can then rapidly develop and curl. The current year's buds are removed, resulting in abundant and long-lasting flowering of a stronger rose bush in the next season.

Reproduction by taps

How to propagate a climbing rose by layering is a frequently asked question from new gardeners. According to many summer residents, propagation of climbing roses by layering is a simple and often used method. There is one disadvantage of such propagation, obtaining a minimum number of seedlings.

Reproduction method:

1. The right time is spring.
2. From the mother bush we select the strongest, one-year-old shoot, at least 1 meter long.
3. On the selected seedling, make a shallow cut above the buds.
4. Before rooting, dig a trench 7–10 cm deep, pour it with warm water, cover the bottom with humus and lay the prepared seedling so that only the crown remains above the soil surface.
5. During the rooting period, the soil should be kept moist.
6. We feed the seedlings with liquid fertilizers twice a season.
7. Next year we cut off the shoot and divide it into parts. We plant the seedling with roots in the prepared place.

Important! To obtain several rooted shoots, it needs to be laid in waves: a bud above the ground, a bud underground.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings

How to trim a climbing rose for shaping

Cuttings are considered the most used method of propagating climbing roses. It can be used both in spring and autumn. Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings in the summer does not always work; the shoots become stiff, semi-lignified, and germination takes longer. And the summer heat promotes rapid evaporation of moisture, so cuttings planted in open ground often dry out.

Preparing the cuttings

Half the success is properly prepared planting material. The most promising are cuttings taken in the spring before the plant blooms. The optimal thickness of a shoot that can be cut should be at least 5 mm. The material is prepared in this order:

1. A fragment with three living buds is cut out from the middle part of the young shoot.
2. The lower part is shortened with garden pruning shears at an angle of 45 degrees.
3. The top of the cutting is carefully cut two centimeters above the leaf at an angle of 90 degrees.
4. On the top two petioles, cut off the top fifth leaf.
5. All leaves on the lower petiole are removed and shortened to 2 cm.

For cuttings, use the middle part of healthy shoots without visible signs of disease or pest damage.

Rooting in water

It is considered the easiest way. The cuttings are placed in a vessel with water filled to 1/3 of the height of the seedling. The jar or glass is completely covered with a bag, creating a greenhouse effect. The first white roots can be seen after 15-20 days.

The main problem that gardeners face when germinating roses in water is rotting of the cuttings. To avoid this, crushed activated carbon is added to the water. Also, do not allow water to stagnate. Once every three to four days the water should be changed and the cutting itself should be washed.

Note! If you add rooting agent Kornevin or Epin to the water for germination, the time for roots to appear will be reduced to 10-12 days

Rooting a seedling in the ground

Rotting of planting material can be avoided by rooting the rose directly in the soil. To do this, take a light soil based on turf soil, peat and sand. Of the purchased mixtures, any universal composition will do. The cuttings are planted in small pots, watered abundantly and covered with a jar or bag, creating the effect of a greenhouse.

The containers are transferred to a bright place, protected from direct sunlight, and kept at a temperature not lower than +23 degrees. The greenhouse can be removed as soon as the first young leaves appear. It takes 14 to 20 days for the seedling to root in the substrate.

Many gardeners practice spring rooting of cuttings directly in the garden bed. Prepared fragments of shoots are planted to a depth of 2 cm at a distance of at least 5 cm from each other. After planting, they must be covered with jars or a low film tunnel is made using arcs.

On a note! Roses are transplanted to a permanent location next spring.

Germinating roses in potatoes

Quite a popular method of propagation among experienced gardeners. This method successfully cuts not only roses, but also other types of decorative deciduous, flowering and even coniferous plants.

Using potatoes helps maintain a consistently moist environment that encourages root growth. In addition, starch and carbohydrates, which the tuber is rich in, are sources of nutrition for the young seedling.

The method consists of several main steps:

1. Before planting, dig a narrow trench 15-20 cm deep.
2. A layer of sand about 5 cm is poured onto the bottom.
3. Take medium-sized potatoes. All eyes must be cleaned and removed.
4. Cuttings are inserted into potatoes with a sharp cut inward.
5. The prepared material is laid out in a row at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other.
6. Cover the cuttings with soil, compact them and water them abundantly.
7. The resulting row is covered with film.

After 10-14 days, the roses are opened for ventilation for 20-30 minutes daily, after another week the film is completely removed.

Obtaining high-quality planting material using potato tubers is one of the most effective and simplest ways for those who still do not know how to propagate climbing roses by cuttings in the summer.

The lower edge of the cutting should be buried in the tuber to the height of the lower leaf petiole

Advice from experienced gardeners

How to propagate a rose in a greenhouse

Arrange it in light shade or in an open area. Allowable passage of groundwater (1.5-2 m).

Dig a pit (1-1.5 X 1-1.5 m). Place slurry (2/3). Cover with polyethylene. Leave for 2 weeks. Then the film is removed. Sprinkle the following mixture on top of the manure:

• turf land (2 parts);
• leaf soil (1 part);
• sand (1 part).

Or another composition: fertile soil, peat (1:1). Pour a layer of sand (3-5 cm) on top. Before cuttings, water the soil generously.

How to propagate a rose in a greenhouse

The cuttings are buried (1.5-2 cm). They are seated at a distance from each other (5 cm). It is false to be between the rows (8-10 cm).

The first 14 days are sprayed every day (5-7 times). After 2-3 weeks, reduce to 3 times. Ventilate in hot weather. They take root after 14-21 days. As soon as buds begin to form, remove the film. They are planted next spring.

How to propagate roses using cuttings under jars

Prepare the petioles in the usual way. Select a slightly shaded area. Cuttings are planted in the fall (1-1.5 months before preparations for winter begin).

Install the shoots, slightly tilting them. One container should fit 2-3 copies. Water the plantings abundantly. Cover with jars (three-liter).

If there is no rain, periodically moisten the soil. After 30 days, sprouts should appear. For the winter, cover the jars with fallen leaves. In spring (end of May) glass vessels are removed completely.

How to propagate roses using cuttings under jars

How to grow a rose in ordinary potatoes

It is necessary to prepare cuttings (their length is 15-20 cm) and tubers. It's better to take young potatoes. Immerse the ends of the cuttings in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (for 12 hours).

Then leave in the stimulating mixture (for a day). They use Kornevin, Heteroauskin. Make a hole in the potato with a sharp object. The petiole is inserted. You can plant such a preparation in a flowerbed or in a home pot. Grow like all rose seedlings.

These flowers can be propagated in various ways, the main thing is to carefully prepare all the necessary preparations and tools.

Taking cuttings: when and how to cut shoots correctly

If you wish, you can try to grow a rose from a cutting, even from unpresentable branches. For example, those that broke off under the weight of snow or remained after trimming a bush. However, to obtain the most favorable results, it is recommended to adhere to certain rules:

• Season. Experienced flower growers advise cutting shoots during the period from the formation of buds to the end of flowering, i.e. from early summer to mid-autumn. By this time, the wood will have accumulated enough nutrients, but in general, you can start rooting in early spring.
• Maturity stage. A suitable cutting is considered to be a small straight section of an adult semi-lignified (this year) green stem with 2–5 fully formed axillary buds.
• Escape size. The length should be from 15 to 30 cm, thickness - from 5 to 10 mm.
• Work tool. A special garden pruner or a household knife with a very sharp blade will do (the main thing is to make sure that it accurately separates the trunk and does not flatten or “shag” it). It is advisable to disinfect the instrument with alcohol or boiling water.
• Place of cut. For cuttings, the middle or lower part of the stem is used (the top takes root very poorly). The upper cut is made in a straight line between the buds 2–6 mm above one of them, and the lower cut is made obliquely, at an angle of 45° directly below the outermost bud.
• Material processing. At the base of the finished cuttings, you need to completely remove the thorns and leaves, and reduce their number by half on top.

You can complete the preparation of the stem by dipping the cut areas in a weak (light pink) solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection. To minimize moisture loss, seal the upper end with wax or paraffin, and place the lower end in a stimulating solution.

How to do it?

It is very difficult to root cuttings of roses from a bouquet. There is no 100% guarantee that the process will be successful. Only one out of ten cuttings produces roots. And this is not so much. Therefore, to achieve greater effect, take several cuttings at once, then the likelihood of success of the undertaking will increase significantly.

Let's move on to methods of rooting cuttings. There are several of them. The first method, which we will highlight in our article, is to select a cutting with young vegetation from a bouquet, which must be lowered into water. Then it must be put into any growth stimulator. Next, you need to root the cuttings of roses from the bouquet in a pot of soil, into which the stem is immersed until the young shoots - they remain above it. Then the seedling is covered with a plastic bottle. Or, two sticks are placed on the sides of the pot, over which plastic film is stretched. After this procedure, we leave the plant alone, but do not forget to water it and let it breathe. Wait four weeks for the seedling to take root.

The second way to root a rose cutting is to divide the stems of the plant into 25-centimeter sections. This is best done with pruning shears or a blade. Do this to avoid damaging the stem. There is no need to take the tops - they are too thin. We place the cuttings in the ground, then cut off the bottom of plastic bottles and cover our seedlings with them. Periodically, the structure needs to be removed so that our future roses can breathe. In this method, cuttings are planted in the fall.

Caring for climbing roses in the open ground

CLIMBING ROSE. Care BEFORE, AFTER and DURING flowering. WATERING and FEEDING

How to properly care

In order for a climbing rose to grow and develop normally, you need to learn how to properly water, feed, and prune the plant. You also need to monitor the health of the rose and destroy pests in a timely manner. It is very important to learn how to properly prepare bushes for wintering. This type of rose needs reliable support. These plants can easily tolerate drought, and therefore should not be watered abundantly. As a rule, they are watered once every 7 days or ten days; 10–20 liters of water should be poured onto 1 bush. Remember that it is better to water more often, but less. To retain water in the hole, it is recommended to build a not very low shaft of soil around it. When 2–3 days have passed since watering, it will be necessary to loosen the soil surface of the tree trunk circle to a depth of 5 to 6 centimeters. This will help retain moisture in the soil and also improve air access to the root system. In order to reduce the number of waterings and virtually eliminate soil loosening, you need to cover its surface with a layer of mulch.

Young plants do not need to fertilize the soil until the end of the summer, since there is a large amount of nutrients in the soil from the moment of planting. At the end of summer, the plant should be fed with a solution of potassium fertilizers, this will help the rose prepare for the winter period. In this case, it is recommended to use an infusion prepared with wood ash as a top dressing. In the second year of life, such plants need to add mineral and organic fertilizers to the soil, and they should be alternated. And roses of the third and subsequent years of life should be fed only with organic fertilizers. So, a solution consisting of 10 liters of water, 1 liter of manure and 1 tbsp is perfect for this. wood ash. If desired, you can use another organic fertilizer instead of manure. During the period of intensive growth, climbing roses must be fed 5 times, but it must be taken into account that during the flowering period, fertilizers cannot be applied to the soil.

Support for climbing roses

Support for climbing roses. Accent in the flower garden

There are a huge number of different supports for this type of rose. So, as a support you can use an old dried tree, a wooden, metal or polymer arch or lattice, as well as arched rods made of metal. But the best support for such a plant is a building or any structure, but we must remember that plants should be planted at least 50 centimeters away from the wall. It is necessary to fix guides on the surface of the wall, to which the plant shoots or lattice will cling. But we must not forget that if the stems are positioned horizontally, the flowers will grow along their entire length. If they grow vertically, then the flowers will bloom only at the tops of the stems.

In order to fix the stems on the support, you need to use plastic twine. It is prohibited to use wire for these purposes, even wrapped in cloth or a sheet of paper. The shoot must be secured to the support securely, but so that the fastening material does not damage it. It is necessary to systematically inspect plants for the integrity of fastening materials. The fact is that under the weight of the plant itself or from gusts of wind, the twine can break, and in this case there is a risk of significant damage to the rose. Step back 30 to 50 centimeters from the bush and then dig the support into the ground.

Transplanting climbing roses

How to transplant a rose correctly

An adult rose may need to be replanted only when it becomes clear that the place where it grows is completely unsuitable for it. Transplantation is carried out in the autumn in September or early November; this should not be done later, since the bush will not have time to take root before the beginning of the winter period. In some cases, the plant is replanted in the spring, but this must be done before the buds awaken. Plants must be removed from the supporting structure. Young shoots of ramblers are not removed, but their tops are pinched in the last days of August, which will help them become woody faster. Stems older than 2 years are pruned. All long stems must be shortened by ½ part at climbers and climbers. After this, the bushes must be carefully dug in a circle, while moving away from its center to a distance equal to 2 bayonet shovels. We must remember that the roots go deep into the soil, and you need to try to dig them out completely, while causing them as little damage as possible. The soil should be shaken off the roots, and then they should be inspected. Using pruning shears, cut off shaggy and damaged root tips. Lower the plant into the prepared hole and be sure to straighten the roots. Then fill the hole with soil and compact its surface thoroughly. Water the plant well. A few days after transplanting, you need to add the required amount of soil in order to level the surface of the tree trunk circle. At the same time, you need to hill up the rose.

Diseases and pests

Aphids and spider mites can live on climbing roses. In the case where there are not very many aphids on the plant, it is recommended to try to get rid of them using folk remedies. So, you can remove insects from the plant manually. To do this, you need to pinch the part of the plant on which the aphid is located with your fingers and remove it. Don't forget to wear gloves. But this method can only be used at the very beginning of infection. If there are a lot of insects, then removing them manually will be ineffective. In this case, it is recommended to make a soap solution. The soap should be crushed using a grater, poured into a container, where water should be poured. Let the solution sit as soap takes time to dissolve. Strain it and treat the plant with a sprayer. If after treatment the insects still remain, then you need to buy an insecticidal agent in a special store, which should have o. For processing in this case, you need to choose a calm, sunny day. Spider mites can settle on a rose only during a hot, dry period, and only when the plant is watered very rarely. Such insects live on the underside of leaves. They feed on plant sap and entangle the leaves with a thin web. An infected rose's leaves turn green-silver. Very often, to destroy such ticks, an infusion prepared with wormwood, shag, yarrow or tobacco is used. 3 days after treatment with this infusion, 80 to 100 percent of the pests should die. To prepare an infusion of wormwood, you need to pour 500 g of freshly picked wormwood into a wooden container. You need to pour a bucket of cold water in there. When the mixture has been infused for half a month, it is filtered and diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. It is necessary to treat both the plant itself and the surface of the soil around it. If you want to get rid of insects in the near future, then you will need to purchase Fitoverm. You can re-treat a couple of weeks after the first. Before you start processing with this product, you need to study the instructions attached to it, which indicate the features, as well as the required dosage.

Cicadas, thrips, roseate sawflies, and leaf rollers can also harm climbing roses. However, if you take care of the flower, following all the rules, they will not settle on it. As a preventive measure, plant marigolds in close proximity to the rose; they will be able to protect this plant from most pests. Also, preventive measures should be taken in autumn and spring. To do this, the bushes need to be treated with a Bordeaux mixture sprayer.

For roses, diseases such as bacterial cancer, gray rot, koniothyrium, powdery mildew, and black spot pose a great danger.

Rose diseases and their treatment

Bacterial cancer

Very soft and lumpy growths of different sizes appear on the surface of the plant. After some time they become harder and darker. This leads to drying out and death of the plant. There is no cure for such a disease. When purchasing seedlings, you need to carefully examine them, and before planting them, you need to disinfect the root system by immersing it for 2-3 minutes. in a solution of copper sulfate (3%). If there are signs of disease on an adult plant, the affected parts must be cut off immediately, and the sections must be treated with the same three percent solution.

Koniothirium

This disease is fungal, which is considered a bark burn or cancer. You can see that the plant is sick in the spring, after the shelter has been removed. On the surface of the bark you will see specks of brownish-red color, which will eventually turn black and turn into rings around the stem. These stems should be cut off immediately, capturing some of the unaffected tissue, and destroyed to prevent the spread of the disease. For preventive purposes, in the autumn, nitrogen fertilizer should be replaced with potassium fertilizer, which will make the rose tissue stronger. And during thaws, it is necessary to ventilate the plants by raising the shelter.

Powdery mildew

A whitish coating appears on parts of the roses, which gradually turns brown. The appearance of such a disease can be triggered by high air humidity, sudden changes in temperature, excessive amounts of nitrogen in the soil and violations of watering rules. Parts of the rose that are affected by the disease must be cut off and destroyed. Next, the plant should be treated using a solution of copper sulfate (2%) or iron sulfate (3%).

Black spot

Dark brownish-red spots appear on the surface of the leaves, which are bordered by a yellow rim. Over time, they merge with each other and cause the leaf blade to die. For preventive purposes, it is necessary to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer under the roots in the fall. You will also need a three-stage treatment of the plant itself and the soil near it with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (3%) or iron sulfate (3%). The breaks between treatments are 7 days.

Gray rot

It can destroy almost all parts of the plant (buds, leaves, shoots). Such a rose loses its beauty, and its flowering becomes relatively sparse. If the disease is severe, the rose should be dug up and burned. If the disease has just appeared, it is recommended to treat the bush with a solution prepared from 5 liters of water and 50 g of Bordeaux mixture. In order to cure the plant completely, as a rule, 4 treatments may be needed, the interval between which should be 7 days.

It happens that a seemingly healthy and well-developed climbing rose does not bloom. The point here may not be a disease at all, but the fact that a seedling of poor quality (poorly flowering) was purchased, and besides, the wrong place was chosen for it, and the soil, too, is most likely not entirely suitable for this plant. And it also happens that last year’s stems are damaged during wintering.

Growing rose cuttings in potatoes

This method of propagating a plant is one of the most unusual and interesting methods of planting this flower. To do this, we need young shoots of roses, which can be obtained during the flowering period, namely in the summer. The stems should not exceed the thickness of a pencil, as they multiply most quickly during the process. Then, using pruning shears, we cut the young plants into cuttings. It is advisable to do this slightly at an angle. Do not forget that cuttings should not exceed 25 centimeters in length. We carefully remove all the thorns and leaves from their lower part, and then immerse the stem in the potatoes. Next we need to choose a location for the trench and dig it. It should be open and sunny, but protected from the wind. The trench should be about fifteen centimeters deep.

The bottom is completely covered with sand so that there are no gaps. We immerse the cuttings in the ground at a distance of twenty-five centimeters from each other, and then cover them with earth. After which, do not forget to water thoroughly. “Why immerse cuttings in potatoes?” - you ask? Rose seedlings placed in potatoes will not need moisture. They will be completely provided by tubers. Also, it is they who will feed them with already synthesized beneficial substances.

Planting climbing roses in open ground

How to properly plant and care for a climbing rose

Optimal time and place for landing

Absolutely all types of such plants have a very capricious character. The same applies to climbing roses. To plant and care for such a plant, you need to adhere to certain rules. You should also take into account the advice of experienced gardeners on cultivating climbing roses. The choice of a site for planting must be approached with all responsibility. Such plants simply need an area that will be illuminated by the sun from morning until lunch. In this case, the dew on the plant will be able to dry, which will help avoid the appearance of fungal diseases. At lunchtime, when the sun's rays are most scorching, this area should be shaded, otherwise burns may appear on the surface of the foliage and petals. Also, a suitable site should have protection from winds from the northeast and north, because it is quite cold. It is not recommended to decorate the corners of buildings with climbing roses. The fact is that the draft present there can destroy a delicate plant. To plant such flowers, experts advise choosing a site on the south side of the building. In order to plant climbing roses, you will need a strip of soil only half a meter wide, but you should take into account that any structure, building or plant should be located at a distance of approximately 50–100 centimeters from such a flower.

Suitable soil must be well drained. If, in the place chosen for planting, the groundwater is located very close to the surface, these plants are planted on a special, previously prepared elevation. The roots of this type of roses in some cases can go deep into the ground up to 200 centimeters. In order to prevent stagnation of liquid in the root system, the selected area should be located at least at a not very large slope. Loam is considered an ideal option for planting climbing roses. If the soil is sandy, then it must be corrected before planting by adding clay when digging, and sand must be added to clayey soil. Such plants need soil saturated with nutrients, so the addition of humus or humus is mandatory. You should also add bone meal to the soil, which is considered an excellent source of phosphorus. Soil preparation must be done in advance. Ideally, this should be done 6 months before planting, but preparation can also be done 4 weeks before planting the rose.

In temperate climates, climbing roses are recommended to be planted at the end of September and until mid-October. Planting can also be done in spring. It can be carried out from the second half of April until the last days of May.

Autumn planting

When planning to plant a climbing rose, you must first learn how to choose the best quality planting material. Nowadays, you can purchase rose seedlings that are rooted, as well as those that are grafted onto rose hips. But how are they different? Grafted seedlings have one important difference from rooted ones. The fact is that the root system of such a seedling belongs to the rose hips, and on it there is a scion belonging to the varietal climbing rose. In this regard, planting and caring for a rooted rose should be somewhat different than a grafted one. So, for example, a grafted seedling must be buried in the soil when planting so that the place where the graft is located is underground at a depth of 10 centimeters. With this method of planting, the part of the plant that was grafted begins to form its own root system, while the rosehip roots eventually become unnecessary and die off. In the case when, during planting, the scion was not buried in the ground, but remained above its surface, it can lead to the death of the plant. The fact is that rosehip is a deciduous plant, and a grafted rose is an evergreen. If planting was carried out in violation of the rules, then such a discrepancy between the rootstock and scion can lead to the death of the cultivated part of the plant.

Seedlings with an open root system must be immersed in a container of water for 1 day, and this should be done immediately before planting in open ground. After this, you should tear off all the leaves and cut off, using pruners, those stems that are unripe or have been damaged. You should also trim the root system and above-ground parts, leaving 30 centimeters each. The cut areas should be treated with crushed charcoal. If you use grafted seedlings for planting, then you must carefully remove all the buds that are located below the scion. The fact is that rose hips will begin to grow from them. Next, the planting material should be disinfected. To do this, it must be dipped in a solution of copper sulfate (3%).

The hole for planting roses should have dimensions of 50x50. In this case, a distance of at least 100 centimeters must be maintained between the planting holes. The top layer of soil, the most saturated with nutrients, must be removed from the hole being dug and combined with ½ part of a bucket of manure. Part of the resulting earth mixture must be poured into the hole, and then a relatively large amount of water must be poured into it. This procedure must be carried out a day or two before the plant is supposed to be planted. On the day you are planning to plant a seedling, you need to prepare a special solution in order to treat the root system before planting. To prepare the solution, you need to dissolve 1 tablet of heteroauxin, 3 tablets of phosphorobacterin in 500 ml of water. Then pour this liquid into 9.5 liters of clay mash. Before lowering the seedling into the hole, its roots should be dipped in the prepared mixture. A mixture of soil and manure should be poured into the hole in a mound. Then you need to place the seedling in the hole, carefully straightening its roots. Fill the hole with the same mixture of soil and manure and thoroughly compact the soil surface. Do not forget that the place where the graft is located must be buried 10 centimeters into the ground. In this case, the root collar of a self-rooted seedling must be buried 5 or more centimeters into the ground. The planted plant must be well watered. After the liquid is absorbed into the soil, a mixture of soil and manure will need to be added to the hole. Then the plant spuds to a height of 20 centimeters or more.

Spring planting

Roses planted in autumn are faster in development than those planted in open ground in spring. At the same time, the latter need special increased attention to themselves. Before planting seedlings, their root system should be trimmed to 30 centimeters, and the stems should be shortened to 15–20 centimeters. When the plant is planted, it needs to be watered well and hilled high. Then it should be covered with a transparent film on top, creating something similar to a mini-greenhouse. In these greenhouse conditions, the rose will take root relatively faster. Do not forget to ventilate the seedling every day; to do this, you need to raise the shelter for a few minutes. Experts advise ventilation to be carried out longer and longer each time, so the rose will also be hardened. After the threat of night frosts has passed, it will be possible to remove the cover completely and add a layer of mulch to the surface of the soil in the hole. If the seedlings were planted at a time when the weather was warm and dry, then the surface of the holes will need to be sprinkled with a layer of mulch (peat or other).

A few words about climbing roses

Kinds

Among the large number of varietal diversity of rose climbing bushes, two types are distinguished:

• Multi-flowered roses stand out by blooming up to 20 buds at a time. They are small in size, approximately 2.5 cm, and there is practically no smell.
• Large-flowered roses are similar to hybrid tea varieties. They bloom for a long time, opening new buds one after another. Inflorescence with ten buds. These flowers have an intoxicatingly fragrant aroma.

The most popular varieties

• The climbing variety "Dortmund" can be planted everywhere. Flowering throughout the warm season;
• “Climber” attracts with its high resistance to disease and its vitality. The shoots can reach four meters, which is convenient for creating any flower arrangement.
• "Rambler" has a long flowering period and has large double flowers. The shoots are tall and powerful. This climbing variety is suitable for creating bright hedges.
• The height of “New Down” is up to two meters. The shoots are slightly curved, so it is convenient to hang them on supports. Flowering is abundant.
• The “Kordessa” variety is a newcomer among its climbing relatives. Flowering is vigorous and long lasting.

Reproduction methods

Many novice gardeners are interested in propagating climbing roses with their own hands. Professionals know how to propagate rose bushes, which include climbing varieties, in different ways:

• cuttings;
• layering;
• budding;
• seeds.

Each method of propagation has its own characteristics and difficulties, which are not always amenable to those who are just starting to breed these amazing plants. The simplest, giving a higher percentage of survival, is the propagation of climbing roses by cuttings, root suckers and layering.

Varieties of climbing roses with photos and names

The best varieties of climbing roses. MY GARDEN on the Dacha channel.

The most popular varieties are described below.

Ramblers (small-flowered climbing roses)

Bobby James

This vigorous variety can reach a height of 800 cm, while the crown has a width of up to 300 cm. The rich green leaves are almost invisible due to the many creamy white flowers, the diameter of which is 4–5 centimeters. They smell musky. You need a lot of free space and reliable support. Not afraid of frost.

Ramblin' Rector

Five-meter long lashes are decorated with light green leaf plates. Semi-double cream flowers are quite small. They are 40 pieces each and are part of large inflorescences in the form of a brush. When exposed to the sun they fade to white. This plant is also cultivated as a bush plant.

Super Excelsa

Bushes two meters high and wide are decorated with double flowers, painted in a rich crimson color, which are collected in racemes. It blooms until the end of summer, but the bright color fades in the sun. Frost-resistant and not susceptible to powdery mildew.

Climings and climbers (large-flowered varieties)

Elf

The height of the erect, vigorous bush reaches 250 cm, and the width is 150 cm. The diameter of the densely double flowers is 14 centimeters. They are white with a greenish tint and smell of fruit. Flowering until the end of summer. Has resistance to diseases.

Santana

The four-meter bush is decorated with dark green carved leaves and semi-double velvety large ones (diameter 8–10 centimeters). They have a rich red color. Not afraid of frost, resistant to diseases. Blooms several times per season.

Polka

The height of the bush can exceed 200 centimeters. The glossy leaves are dark green in color, and the large double flowers (12 centimeters in diameter) are apricot. During the season, flowering is observed 2 or 3 times. Has resistance to powdery mildew. For wintering you need good shelter.

Indigoletta

A vigorous three-meter bush has a one and a half meter diameter. The leaves are dense, dark green. Terry lilac large (diameter up to 10 centimeters) and fragrant flowers are part of the inflorescences. It grows quickly and blooms several times per season. Resistant to diseases.

Cordes hybrids (they are not classified as a separate group, but are classified as ramblers)

Lagoon

The fragrant, tall plant has a diameter of 100 cm and a height of 300 cm. The racemose inflorescences consist of large double (diameter up to 10 centimeters) dark pink flowers. Flowering is observed 2 times per season. It is resistant to powdery mildew and blackleg.

Golden Gate

The bush has many shoots, and its height is 350 centimeters. Racemose inflorescences consist of semi-double large (diameter up to 10 centimeters) flowers, painted yellowish-golden. They smell strongly of fruit. Flowering occurs twice per season.

Exchange of experiences of gardeners who successfully propagate climbing roses by layering

1. Marina Kirillovna (Zagorsk, zone 4).

1. Larisa Maksimovna, (Grodno, zone 5).

I love experimenting with plant propagation. Cuttings from all the roses that are in my garden, including hybrid tea, floribunda, and climbing “Laguna.” Perhaps this particular variety took root better than others.

When the branches of this rose grew, about two meters, it became difficult to manage them. Therefore, instead of pruning, I began to dig in the longest shoots. Almost all of them grew (unlucky were only those that the dog got to). From which I concluded that of all the roses, “Laguna” reproduces best by layering.

1. Ekaterina Maksimovna, (Kuban, zone 6).

My rose "Bobby James" has grown so large that there is not enough space for it along the fence inside the garden. It spread to the street and there it grew to the ground on its own. No one dug it in, watered it, or fertilized it. I've been working with roses for a long time, but this is the first time I've seen this.

Methods for propagating climbing roses

Climbing roses, like many other crops, can be propagated by seeds.
However, gardeners who keep these beautiful flowers most often choose vegetative propagation. This is the most effective and efficient way to increase the number of roses on your site. The basis of this method is the ability of climbing beauties to regenerate their body from one part of themselves - a leaf, stem, root. By the way!

All cultivated roses are propagated vegetatively.

Plants obtained by vegetative propagation are called self-rooted, since, once a leaf or shoot is planted, these parts become overgrown with their own roots, from which a new plant can be grown that has the same genes as the mother one.

Roses can be propagated vegetatively in several ways:

• layering;
• root suckers;
• cuttings;
• dividing the bush.

In addition, a new rose bush can be obtained by grafting (grafting) an eye (bud) of a varietal rose onto a healthy wild rose bush. This method is called “budding”. Grafted roses grow faster than self-rooted ones, but caring for them is more labor-intensive. Roses grown on “their own” roots have high vitality - they are more hardy and winter-hardy.

The easiest way for an ordinary gardener to propagate roses is by suckers, layering or cuttings. These are the least labor-intensive and more effective methods. However, it is worth considering that not all varieties of this flower can be propagated by cuttings. But flowering from new plants can be achieved only after a couple of years. Budding technique is a little more complicated than previous propagation methods and requires additional skills from the gardener. In addition, there is a need to obtain healthy, well-developed rootstocks.

Each method has its pros and cons. An analysis of each method in more detail will help you decide which one to use.

This is interesting: Rose Lady of Shalott: explained in detail

Tea rose

This variety is better known as a garden plant. Miniature varieties are grown at home. This species was obtained from the Bengal rose. Flower bushes can be either low - up to 50 cm, or high - up to 2 m. There are low-growing varieties that grow only up to 30 cm. Many people are interested in how to propagate this type of rose? Very simple. As is the case with other varieties, it is better to propagate tea roses by cuttings, which are taken after the bush has flowered.

It is very important to remember that after this it is better to remove the first buds. Then the flower will bloom magnificently again

The plant is very susceptible to cold and dampness. Therefore, you need to water it moderately and try not to leave it near an open window.

Here are just the main types of house and garden plants. In fact, there are a huge number of them, and more than one volume will be needed to describe and provide advice on caring for them. But the principle of reproduction is the same for everyone. It is better to use propagation by cuttings. It is less labor intensive and more efficient.

Let's sum it up

Growing rose bushes in different ways is a fun activity. Having received a new plant with their own hands once, flower growers can no longer stop. Thanks to this world, new varieties of amazing roses with different colors and unique aroma appear.

Spring and summer are the best time to propagate climbing roses. Climbing roses are not propagated by seeds, because the grown plant will no longer repeat the parental characteristics. Both the coloring and all the advantages of your favorite variety may be lost when propagated by seeds. Therefore, in order to be guaranteed to obtain a sample that exactly replicates the bush you like, climbing roses are propagated vegetatively - by layering, cuttings and grafting.

Reproduction of climbing roses by layering

Climbing roses are easy to propagate by layering. However, this method will not produce a large number of seedlings. Climbing roses are propagated by layering in the spring.

To propagate a climbing rose by layering, you need to mark one or more shoots on your rose. Depending on how much free space there is around the rose, select a shoot of the appropriate length - 1 m will be enough, but more is possible. I advise you to start by taking a shoot 1-1.5 m long.

On the selected shoot, it is necessary to make shallow, barely noticeable cuts above the buds, and place these shoots in grooves of the same length as the shoot and a depth of 7-10 cm. It is advisable to first shed the bottom of the groove and lay humus for nutrition. Next, we simply pin the shoot at any corners and sprinkle the groove with soil, leaving only the top of the shoot on the surface.

Try to keep the soil in this area moist throughout the summer. The next season, simply cut off the shoot and divide it into parts with roots - there you have individual seedlings.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings

It is more difficult to propagate climbing roses from cuttings, but you can get more seedlings. It is better to do this in the summer, in mid-June, when the cuttings are quite soft. The amount of work and costs will depend on how many seedlings are needed. For example, to get 10 climbing rose seedlings, you will need: – 10 plastic cups of 0.5 l each; – 10 plastic containers with a volume of 1 l; - OK. 5 kg of soil and river sand. The cups are filled with a mixture of sand and soil, and covered on top with liter containers turned upside down to create a “greenhouse” effect.

To grow seedlings for sale, when you need to get hundreds of new young plants, you will need a separate greenhouse. On average per 1 sq. m decreases to approx. 100 cuttings. The soil in the greenhouse for growing cuttings is prepared as follows: the surface is covered with soil, a 2 cm layer of expanded clay is placed at the base, then a 6 cm nutrient layer of equal parts of peat, sand and humus and on top a layer of sand 3 cm thick. When growing, the cuttings are covered with film .

The cuttings do not need to be cut large; two internodes are enough. Next, the cuttings should be deprived of leaves, leaving only a couple at the top and placed in nutritious soil (in a glass or in a greenhouse) and watered

When propagating climbing roses by cuttings, it is important to remember that the soil (whether in a greenhouse or in cups) should always be slightly moist.

Usually in mid-September the cuttings form good roots and can be planted either in a permanent place or in a bed with loose and nutritious soil to grow for another season and then replanted.

Propagation of climbing roses by grafting

This is one of the most complex and labor-intensive methods of propagation, which allows you to obtain a large number of seedlings. The grafting is carried out with a bud, which is cut from a cultivated rose and grafted onto the rootstock (rosehip seedling), retreating 5-6 centimeters from the base. I advise you to propagate roses using the method of summer grafting - budding.

The easiest way to graft is through a T-shaped incision. Using a sharp knife, make a cut in the shape of the letter T on a rosehip seedling, cut a bud from the rose and insert it into the cut, after which we insulate it with budding film (it is commercially available).

When caring for a grafted cutting, some advise hilling the rose hips above the grafting site, but I never do this and I don’t understand why this is necessary. I'm just watching how the kidney develops. A month after grafting, I loosen the film by cutting off the knot, and in the spring I remove it completely. Then I wait another week and cut off the rosehip shoot above the growth from the bud.

Germination methods

Rooting of cut stems can be done in different ways, among which there are especially popular ones:

• in water;
• in the newspaper;
• in potatoes;
• in a pot.

Each method has its own individual characteristics, after considering them in detail, you can choose the most suitable option for yourself.

Rooting rose shoots in water

Instructions for germinating rose cuttings in water:

1. Boil water, add charcoal (for disinfection and protection against flowering), as well as a few drops of root-stimulating solution.
2. Place the prepared stems in a container so that their leaves do not touch the water (otherwise they may rot).
3. Stretch plastic film or foil from edge to edge, creating a greenhouse effect, and make holes in it for the trunks.
4. Place the container with plants in a place inaccessible to drafts and direct sunlight.
5. Every 2-3 days, change the water and wait for the formation of a growth (callus), from which the development of a new root system will begin (about 2-3 weeks).
6. Once the roots reach 5 cm, the plant can be transplanted into a loose substrate.

This is a very simple and convenient method of cuttings, but it has one significant drawback. Due to oxygen deficiency, roots grown in water are particularly fragile. They are thinner and more transparent than their soil counterparts, so they are easy to damage when transplanting.

Cuttings of roses in newspaper leaves

Instructions for germinating rose cuttings in a newspaper:

1. Moisten the newspaper sheets until they become absolutely soft and can be wrung out like a rag.
2. Fold the cuttings into piles of several pieces and wrap them in paper like an envelope, leaving no free ends of the branches outside.
3. Place the finished packages in a plastic bag and leave them in a dark place at a temperature of +18–25 °C.
4. Periodically unwrap the bag and moisten the newspaper with a spray bottle.
5. If rot appears on one of the cuttings, it must be removed and the healthy stems carefully washed, and then a new bundle formed for them.
6. When the roots become stronger and reach 5 cm in length, the plant can be transplanted into the ground.

Growing roses in potato tubers

Instructions for germinating rose cuttings in potatoes:

1. Select large or medium-sized tubers, cut out all the “eyes” (sprouts) from them.
2. In the center, use a knife to form a depression whose diameter matches the thickness of the shoot.
3. Prepare a container, on the bottom of which first lay a drainage layer, then a layer of fine river sand about 10 cm thick.
4. Insert the roses with the pointed end into the potatoes.
5. Place these structures in a container at a distance of 15–20 cm from each other and cover with special soil.
6. Bury the shoots to the height of 1 bud and cover each one separately with a plastic bottle or glass jar.
7. Ventilate daily (10–15 minutes), water with plain clean water, and once every five days add sugar (2 tsp per 1 glass).
8. After about 2–2.5 weeks, the plant will be ready to be transplanted to a permanent location.

Reproduction of roses by cuttings in a pot (soil)

Instructions for germinating rose cuttings in soil:

1. Prepare suitable containers for the cuttings, preferably individual ones (pot, cut plastic bottle, etc.) to make it easier to transfer the seedlings later.
2. Clean and dry them thoroughly.
3. Lay the bottom of the container with a thin drainage layer (fine crushed stone, expanded clay, polystyrene foam, smooth pieces of glass).
4. Fill the main volume with soil. This can be standard garden soil fertilized with humus. But it is more preferable to use a special primer “for roses”, which is sold in a flower shop.
5. Plant the shoots, deepening them a few cm into the soil. Be sure to leave 1-2 buds on the surface.
6. Insulate future flowers with plastic bottles or plastic film with holes.
7. Keep the soil slightly moist at all times.
8. It is recommended to remove the insulation only after the first leaves have formed on the cuttings.

Planting stems directly into the ground is the most traditional method of cuttings. Its main advantage is the preparedness of the root system for painless transplantation to a permanent place of growth.