South American peperomia in a pot. Plant propagation and care

The peperomia flower is a member of the Pepper family, and its very name translates as “pepper-like.” If you rub a leaf of this plant in your hands, you can clearly feel the familiar gastronomic aroma. The huge species diversity of the crop makes it possible to choose an option to suit any taste and interior - in climates of temperate latitudes, the flower is grown exclusively as a houseplant. Peperomia is easy to care for, has a neat and compact appearance, is easy to propagate and has all the necessary advantages to maintain its well-deserved rating as one of the most popular home cultivars.

Transfer

The frequency of replanting peperomia also greatly depends on the type of plant.
For example, small-leaved species need to be replanted every year, while large-leaved species need to be replanted every 2 years. The best time for transplantation is spring. This can also be done when an urgent need arises - for example, when roots appear from the drainage hole. Considering that the roots of the plant are small, too spacious pots are not used for replanting.

Since the root system of peperomia grows very slowly, the plant needs a small, wide and shallow pot. For replanting, take a container whose diameter exceeds the old one by 2-3 cm. The maximum diameter of a peperomia pot is 9 cm.

It is important to lay a good drainage layer (1/3 of the volume) at the bottom of the container, which can be used as pebbles, expanded clay, broken brick, or pieces of foam plastic. Then a layer of soil 1.5-2 cm thick is poured

The plant is removed from the old pot and transferred to a new pot without damaging the earthen coma. The voids between the walls and the flower are filled with a new substrate, which is slightly compacted.

After transplantation, the peperomia is watered moderately and placed in a warm place, in partial shade. After 2 weeks, the plant can be returned to its permanent place.

Peperomia: reproduction

Peperomia Lilian Caperata - home care

How does the peperomia flower reproduce:

• Seeds, sown in March-April.
• Cuttings using stem or apical shoots. A substrate is taken consisting of humus, sand, peat in equal parts. For rooting, cuttings with 1-3 nodes are selected. After planting in the substrate, the pots are covered with glass and placed in a warm place for rooting for 4 weeks.
• Leaf. Whole leaf blades with a small petiole are selected. To speed up the process, the leaf can be placed in a greenhouse so that it takes root after 20-30 days.
• Custom. An adult, overgrown bush is selected and divided into 2-3 parts in the spring. Carefully, without damaging the root system, take a small pot and place a drainage layer on the bottom. Replant using a soil mixture containing sand, peat or sphagnum with moss.

Important! It is better to select a wide container for transplantation, and each subsequent pot should be 1.5 times larger than the previous one. There is no need for the flower to waste energy on developing the root system and reduce its decorative effect.

Peperomia propagation by leaf

This is a simple and effective method of propagation. Suitable for bush and upright peperomia. A healthy leaf is selected, not injured or painful. The leaf plate is carefully cut off with a sharp knife, leaving a petiole 3-4 cm long at the base. Next, the leaf is placed in settled water and placed in a warm place. Water is replaced once every 2-3 days. When the cuttings give roots, you can transplant them into soil made of peat, perlite and sand.

Flower propagation by leaf

Maintenance consists of regular watering and ventilation of the greenhouse. The babies will appear after 1.5-2 months. Once two leaves have grown, they can be transplanted into permanent pots up to 5 cm wide.

Propagation of peperomia by cuttings

To obtain a cutting, pinch off the upper part of the shoot with 1-3 nodes. Then soak it in water for several days so that it takes root. Then plant it in the soil, providing greenhouse conditions.

When the cutting takes root, it is worth transplanting it into a glass of soil and placing it in a warm, well-lit place. The air temperature should be 25°C. Soak it for 1 month, watering periodically, until the seedling increases in size and the root system is ready for transplanting into a pot.

Propagation by cuttings

Reproduction of peperomia by leaf - subtleties of rooting

Peperomia takes root equally well both in water and in soil, provided that the latter meets the requirements of the plant.
The only thing that can be noted is that only leaves with long petioles can be placed in water, without immersing them completely in the liquid. If there is a short “tail”, it is better to root immediately in the ground. The rooting process itself is not particularly difficult:

1. Take the soil mixture into a small pot or glass and pour it with settled water.
2. Stick a leaf into the ground so that the cutting is almost completely immersed in it. If it is short, you can plant the leaf deeper by dusting the bottom of the plate.
3. Build a greenhouse by covering the pot with a jar or bag. You can do without it, but then the sprouts will not appear soon.
4. Place the flowerpot on a window with diffused lighting.

Sprouts will appear in about 3 to 4 weeks. Then young peperomias need to be planted in separate containers, slightly larger in volume.

Reproduction by single leaf.

A number of peperomia species reproduce by leaf; the presence of a petiole on the leaf is mandatory. If you decide to propagate the plant with the leaf version, then do not put the leaves with short petioles in water, as they will rot. It is best to sprinkle the cut area with activated carbon or wood ash, then leave it alone for a day.

Only after this are the leaves dug halfway into moistened but not wet soil and placed in a dimly lit place for rooting. The main stem from the leaves will grow only after five to six months.

Peperomia: care at home

The plant is easy to propagate. Even beginners can provide proper care at home. Almost all types of peperomia require identical conditions of watering, fertilizing, lighting, and temperature conditions

In order for them to rapidly climb and reproduce, it is important to know the basics of transplantation, as well as what diseases and pests can affect them if done incorrectly

Peperomia flower

Peperomia blooming

The plant blooms in spring and summer. Although, with proper maintenance and abundant watering, it can bloom a second time at the end of autumn.

The flowering is not particularly interesting as it is modest. Small flowers appear without a perianth and are collected in inflorescences like a cob or spikelet. Peduncles need to be trimmed, as they lead to depletion of the plant and are not decorative. Sometimes it is worth pruning them at the embryonic stage so that the peperomia does not drop its leaves after flowering.

How does a plant bloom?

Diseases and pests of peperomia

If you do not maintain optimal air humidity, the plant’s leaves begin to fall off or turn black due to excess moisture or insufficient drainage in the pots.

Episcia - home care, propagation by leaves and cuttings

Leaves may turn pale when there is insufficient light or direct sunlight. So low lighting often leads to the loss of their bright attractive color.

The main leaf disease is rust. Thrips, scale insects, mealybugs, and spider mites can also affect if the plates begin to wither and lose turgor. Golden nematodes often settle in the roots of the plant, laying yellow round eggs. It is unlikely that such bushes can be saved, so it is wise to destroy them together with the pot.

If not cared for correctly, problems often arise with the flower. To prevent leaves from falling, it is important to water in a timely manner and avoid keeping them indoors when there are temperature changes.

The tops of the leaves turn brown due to drafts or hypothermia. The pots should be kept in a warm place and watered with settled water.

Note! The shoots and leaves are rotting, which means there is stagnant moisture in the pot, you need to reduce watering. If the situation does not change, then it is worth removing the bush from the pot, inspecting the root, and removing rotten areas.

Young leaves grow deformed

The leaves grow deformed and wrinkled due to exposure to direct sunlight. Burns may form on the plates if you keep the flower on the south side of the windowsill.

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

The foliage turns yellow and then falls off for two reasons:

• insufficient watering;
• exposure to low temperatures.

Perhaps the soil is too dry in the pot, or the room is quite cool.

Yellowed leaves of the plant

Description of the plant

Peperomia leaves are fleshy and come in a rich variety of colors. There are species with green, light green, and emerald colors. Some peperomia are characterized by the presence of variegated leaves with a golden or silver coating.

The shoots are quite flexible, there are hanging varieties. When transplanted or propagated, it quickly adapts, which makes it popular among gardeners. In winter, growth slows down somewhat; with the onset of spring, active vegetation occurs. Not all varieties of peperomia bloom; some are classified as evergreen indoor shrubs.

Peperomia at home grows approximately 13 cm over the course of a year. Adult specimens of ampelous varieties reach 50-60 cm. With regular pruning, the bushes become lush and compact.

For timely flowering, it is necessary to observe the temperature regime. The plant responds well to fertilizing and spraying.

Varieties of peperomia

Let's look at what types of peperomia there are.

The popularity of peperomia for breeding at home is dictated by the wide variety of its varieties; scientists have identified more than 1200. Some varieties and subspecies may differ significantly from others. Among the domestic varieties of peperomia, there are about 50 varieties.

Peperomia Tupolifolia

Peperomia of this variety is a shrub with tall, straight stems, slightly forked towards the top. All shoots have rounded leaves, reaching 12 cm in adult specimens.

The shoots themselves are dark red or brown, and the leaves of peppermonia are green, fleshy with a high content of juice.

The subspecies of Blunt-leafed peppermonia, Variegatna, has special decorative properties. Along the edges of the heart-shaped leaves there is an openwork light green cream edging. Thin veins appear in the center, which gives a unique exotic color.

Peperomia Lilian

It belongs to the subshrubs and has unique decorative characteristics. The leaves are thick, heart-shaped, with swollen veins. They are located very compactly, so the bushes of Peppermonia Lilian seem lush and dense.

At the beginning of June, vertical flower stalks form, they stretch to the top, and at the end they form beige inflorescences with a dark shade, similar to lily buds.

Peperomia Rosso

The plant has tall stems connected in a large bunch, sometimes reaching a height of 25 cm. The flower is in demand among gardeners because of its unique color. The outer side of the leaves is emerald or light green, the inner side has a rich burgundy color.

In nature, the Rosso subspecies blooms in July-August, at home - in early autumn. When constantly grown indoors, flower stalks appear very rarely.

Peperomia Magnolifolia

The flower differs from other varieties in the ampelous branching of its shoots, with a burgundy surface. The leaves are smooth, thick, located almost on the shoots, and can reach 20-25 cm in size. When constantly exposed to the sun, specks of a silver or yellow hue form on them.

Peperomia clusifolia

The voluminous shrub has erect, fleshy stems. They grow large semicircular leaves, up to 20 cm long. They have a rich green color, with burgundy openwork lines along the edges. Various shapes, balls, and squares are well formed from this species.

Peperomia whorled

Peperomia flower of the Whorled variety is a herbaceous perennial. It differs from other varieties in the ampelous arrangement of stems. The shoots are thin, completely covered with semicircular or diamond-shaped leaves of emerald color.

They do not grow from petioles, like all peperomia, but on nodes located immediately on the branches. Abundant flowering occurs in the first half of summer.

Peperomia Pereskifolia

This type of plant is characterized by its large size. In young specimens, shoots begin to grow directly from the root, over time they lengthen and hang down to the bottom. The oval leaves are collected in bunches of up to 5-6 pieces, reaching a size of 3-5 cm. The top is covered with semicircular veins with pink or silver streaks on a green background.

Lighting for the plant

Proper care of peperomia includes creating the necessary lighting. This flower is light-loving, but due to prolonged exposure to the sun's rays, the leaves will begin to suffer and the bush will begin to get sick. In addition, due to the abundance of light, bright leaves will begin to fade, lose color and their decorative characteristics. Therefore, proper care is to locate the peperomia in a place in the house or apartment where the sun will not constantly shine on it. Florists recommend placing the plant on an eastern or western windowsill. If this is not possible, and the only option is the south side of the house, then be sure to create shading for the peperomia. But there are varieties of flowers, for example, with variegated colors, which need a lot of sunlight; they will feel bad in partial shade, so caring for such varieties includes providing them with sufficient light.

Rules for propagation by cuttings

Gardeners use both woody and green cuttings to propagate their favorite varieties

Lignified cuttings

Last year's branches are used for planting material. Cuttings are separated in the second part of September. If you do this later, they will not have time to take root before the onset of frost.

The upper part of the cutting is cut at an angle, and the lower part in a straight line. The length of planting material should be within 20 cm with several full buds.

The cuttings are planted in a moist nutrient substrate at an angle. In this case, no more than two buds should remain above the ground.

When planting, you need to monitor the distance of the branches. The optimal values ​​are 10-12 cm. After the procedure, water the soil generously and mulch.

Propagation using green cuttings

This method is used least often, as it requires some effort. Planting of cuttings is carried out only in a cold greenhouse. The soil should consist of deciduous soil and compost. You can also add a small amount of coarse sand to the composition.

Cuttings are separated only from healthy and large branches. Their length should not exceed 15 cm. The lower leaves must be removed and the upper ones shortened by half.

For quick rooting, it is recommended to make several shallow cuts in the lower part of the planting material and one under the upper leaf plate.

Before planting chokeberry, you need to dip the cuttings in a growth stimulator. Keep them in this state for 8 hours. At the end of this time, landing is carried out. The specimens are placed at an angle, maintaining a distance of 4 cm. Keep the greenhouse at a temperature not lower than 25 C, watering periodically.

Green cuttings can be replanted after 10 days. During the first few months, young chokeberries are often and abundantly irrigated, weeds are removed and the soil is loosened. They are transplanted to a permanent place in the first month of autumn.

Planting and transplanting

Flower growers consider planting the plant to be the most difficult stage in breeding this green pet. The health, development and even life of the plant depends on compliance with planting rules. The main difficulties associated with planting are preparing the soil and choosing a container. This flower is planted only in spring, using soil through which air easily circulates. The soil should be loose and nutritious; a clay-based substrate is excellent for this purpose. It is recommended to buy special soil in specialized stores, especially if you are not professionally engaged in plant growing.

The container for the flower must be of a suitable size with a drainage layer on the bottom, the size of which cannot be less than 3 cm. Use small bricks, expanded clay, and small pebbles as drainage material. Then the plant is placed in the pot, soil is poured on top, which under no circumstances should be crushed or compacted. In general, the planting procedure should not be accompanied by sudden movements that could damage the rhizome. At the end of the procedure, it is necessary to thoroughly moisten the green pet and take it to its permanent place of stay.

If you purchased a plant in a store, do not replant it on the same day; it is better if you give it a couple of weeks for the flower to adapt to the new conditions. Transplantation is also carried out in the spring:

• young plants - every year;
• three years old and older - once every two years.

Do not choose containers that are too deep, but they should be one and a half centimeters wider than the previous ones. If you are preparing the soil yourself, mix:

• one part sand;
• one part peat;
• one part of humus;
• three pieces of leaf type soil.

Description

Peperomia (from Latin Peperomia) is a perennial herbaceous evergreen plant. It comes from the pepper family. In the wild it grows in the tropical forests of South America and Asia. It can be found on tree trunks, peat bogs, and mountains. Today, some varieties have gained popularity in home floriculture.

Peperomia has beautiful, lush foliage. Each variety has a different leaf appearance. There are specimens with small and large leaves, thin and thick, as well as shiny, wrinkled, and leathery. Color - dark emerald, light green, golden, brown, even with a silver tint.

The structure of the foliage of blunt-leaved peperomia is fleshy, dense, smooth. Painted dark green. The bush grows up to 20 cm in height. In a young plant, the branches tend upward, but after a while you can notice how they bend and reach towards the ground.

Variegated peperomia is a non-flowering species of this crop, so it should not be confused with dull-leaved peperomia, whose flowering period occurs in spring. The inflorescences that appear look like spikelets with small flowers on the top. Sometimes blunt-leaved peperomia is compared with magnolia-leaved peperomia - both species do not differ in the beauty of their peduncles, which is why it is recommended to remove them so as not to draw excess juices out of the plant.

Nevertheless, a lush green bush can decorate any room, and all the beauty of the foliage lies in proper care.

Methods of propagation of indoor beauty peperomia and features of care after rooting

Peperomia is a perennial herbaceous plant that came to us from the tropical forests of South America. Thanks to simple and affordable methods of propagation, this plant quickly spread and won the sympathy of flower growers. This article will tell you when is the best time to propagate peperomia, which pot is best for this, what soil is needed and whether you can make it yourself, how to propagate the plant by cuttings, seeds and dividing the bush, how to root and what to do if rooting does not occur, and also how to care for it in the future after rooting.

Peculiarities

One of the characteristic features of the flower is its low growth, rarely when the plant grows more than 20 cm. It belongs to the evergreen herbaceous perennials, although some representatives of the genus are closer to shrubs. In its natural environment, this green beauty is a tropical carpet and thrives in shady areas. Distinctive features:

• thick shoots;
• the foliage is fleshy and can have different shapes;
• the color of the leaves can vary from green to gold and even brownish tones, they can be decorated with patterns and spots, straight lines;
• Peperomia caperata foliage has a corrugated structure;
• the flower is small in the shape of a cylindrical spike;
• flowering turns into berries.

There are a great many types of peperomia. Botanists differ in their opinions, but on average they number 850 representatives. Peperomia caperata is the most famous of this series, it is also called wrinkled or wrinkled. Peperomia in some of its incarnations is considered a spectacular decorative representative; it is planted in greenhouses, botanical gardens, and used as an element of ampelous floral compositions and groups. All types of peperomia live well together, so many gardeners breed various varieties, combining them into fancy compositions.

Description of plants and species for indoor growing

Peperomia is a perennial epiphytic plant representing the Pepper family. The flower can have an ampelous form, a subshrub or a shrub. The tropical regions of America and India are considered the homeland of exotics.

Peperomia does not exceed 50 cm in height. It has fleshy, thick shoots that stand upright, lie down, creep or hang down, depending on the species. The leaves of the plant are dense, often covered with a waxy coating. Their shape and color also depend on the species.

There are lanceolate, round, heart-shaped, oblong leaves, painted in green, silver, golden, brown, olive colors with various stains, spots and stripes. Small cream peperomia flowers are not decorative; they are collected in cylindrical or spike-shaped inflorescences on high pedicels.

About 1000 species of peperomia are known in nature, about 30 of them are grown indoors. The most popular of them:

Peperomia wrinkled is bush-like, low-growing, up to 10 cm high. The leaves are close together, wrinkled, have a dark green or brown-chocolate tint. Brown veins along the leaf blade are concave on the upper side and convex on the lower side

This species is beautifully flowering and attracts attention with its long thin ears. Peperomia obtufolia is an erect species. It has bare shoots and oval or ovoid leaves, leathery, dense and blunt at the ends, 5-10 cm long

The color of the leaves is green, but varieties with milky white and gray-green leaves have been bred. Peperomia clusifolia is an erect species with thick shoots and sessile dense leaves, up to 15 cm long. Their base is wedge-shaped and the apex is obtuse. Color – dark green with a reddish tint. Peperomia creeping is an ampelous species. Has recumbent or hanging shoots. The leaves are wide, heart-shaped, green or variegated.

Photo of peperomia during care at home and in the natural environment.

How to prepare the pot?

This home ornamental plant has a very small root system, and when choosing a pot you need to focus not on its aesthetic appearance, but on the size of the peperomia root system. To propagate by cuttings, you need to select a deep and narrow container , and then, when the sprouts take root and grow a little, transplant them into a larger container.

The same should be done in the case of leaf propagation. The large depth of the container is due to the presence of mandatory drainage, which occupies approximately 3–4 cm, as well as the need for large space for roots. The material of the vessel for growing peperomia is not so important, since the key components in this process are drainage and holes for draining water at the bottom, but you should give preference to ceramics.

Caring for syngonium at home

Lighting

The optimal location of plants is windows on the east or west side. They can also grow on the north side. In the south, the plant will be too hot - with too much sunlight, the leaves of the syngonium plant may turn pale, which will lead to a decrease in decorativeness. Avoid direct sunlight on the plant.

Temperature

During the growing season, the temperature must be kept between 18 and 24 °C. In winter, the temperature should be slightly lower - 16-18 °C.

Watering syngonium

Soft water is used for watering the syngonium; before watering, it must be left for 24 hours. From spring to autumn, water immediately after the top layer of soil dries, and in winter - a couple of days after the soil on top dries. Water should not stagnate in the pot.

Spraying syngonium

It is recommended to spray home syngonium twice a day in the hot season - morning and evening. You can also wipe the leaves of the plant with a soft, damp cloth. To increase humidity, a pot with a plant can be placed on a tray with wet peat or expanded clay, but so that the water does not touch the pot. The indoor flower syngonium does not do well near heating radiators.

Feeding syngonium

In winter, the house plant syngonium does not need feeding. The rest of the time, the plant is fed with mineral fertilizers 1-2 times a month.

Syngonium flowering

At home, syngonium usually does not bloom. If this happens, the syngonium flower will be expressed as a small cob, wrapped in a white blanket.

Syngonium pruning

To make the syngonium plant more lush, the apical shoots can be pinched. Usually pinch off after the 6th or 7th leaf.

Syngonium transplantation

Young specimens of indoor syngonium are replanted every year, and older specimens are replanted every two to three years. Drainage is poured onto the bottom of the pot, and a slightly acidic or neutral substrate is poured on top: two parts each of turf, leaf soil and peat, and 1 part sand. Indoor syngonium is excellent for growing hydroponically.

Propagation of syngonium by cuttings

To propagate syngonium, take a shoot with at least one bud. The shoot takes root well in sand, in vermiculite, in water (you need to throw an activated carbon tablet into the water), in sphagnum, as well as in mixtures of sand and peat or sand and sphagnum. The temperature is maintained around 25-27 °C. When the syngonium cuttings take root, the young plants are planted in individual pots. You can plant several seedlings in one pot to make the plant look more luxuriant.

Syngonium toxicity

The juice of the syngonium plant is poisonous, so you should avoid getting the juice on your hands, eyes or mouth. If this happens, wash off the juice with plenty of running clean water.

Briefly about cultivation

• Flowering: the plant is grown as an ornamental foliage plant.
• Lighting: bright diffused light. Forms of peperomia with green leaves are not as dependent on light as the variegated varieties.
• Temperature: in summer and spring – about 22 ºC, in winter – 17-18 ºC.
• Watering: during the growing season - abundantly, and in winter the substrate is moistened so that the earthen lump does not dry out.
• Air humidity: normal for residential premises, but in the summer heat it is advisable to spray the foliage early in the morning or in the evening.
• Feeding: every two weeks from spring to autumn with complex fertilizer for decorative deciduous plants.
• Rest period: not clearly expressed.
• Transplantation: up to three years of age, an annual replantation is required, and thereafter - once every two years.
• Substrate: 3 parts of leaf soil and 1 part each of humus soil, peat and sand.
• Reproduction: seeds, leaf and stem cuttings, division of rhizomes.
• Pests: spider mites, thrips, scale insects, mealybugs and nematodes.
• Diseases: stem rot, loss of decorativeness by leaves, falling leaves due to violation of maintenance conditions and improper care.

Read more about growing peperomia below.

Cuttings

Propagating peperomia from cuttings is as easy as propagating from leaves. It is best to root cuttings in the ground. In this case, the new plant will be strong. You can prepare the soil for this yourself. To do this, mix equal amounts of humus, peat and sand. For cuttings, use the top of a healthy peperomia stem. At the same time, it must have at least two growth points. They look like nodes on the surface of the stem. Cut the cutting with a sharp knife, and treat the cut area with ash or ground charcoal.

Some gardeners keep the cuttings in water for several days before planting them in the ground. Be sure to make drainage at the bottom of the pot.

Cover the planted cuttings with a transparent film, ensuring an influx of fresh air. The best temperature for germination is +25 degrees Celsius. After planting the cutting, place the pot in a shaded place for two weeks. After this period, remove the film and transfer the pot to the windowsill.

How to prepare planting material

An adult and always healthy leaf is suitable for propagation. It needs to be cut with a sharp knife, trying to keep the cut area even. The leaf must have a petiole, at least a short one.

It is recommended to dry the cut sheet slightly, leaving it overnight on paper, but not on the window. It is advisable to sprinkle the cut area with finely tuned activated carbon. This will prevent rotting.

It is best to start breeding in spring or summer. At this time, peperomia is actively growing its aerial part and sap flow occurs faster. This means that the mother bush will not be damaged, and the new plant will form faster.

How to care?

In order for a home plant to please with a healthy and blooming appearance, it is necessary to competently carry out, although simple, regular care, taking into account the characteristics of this type of plant. At home, these procedures will not cause any particular inconvenience.

Watering

Oddly enough, the tropical beauty is not a fan of strong humidity, so it should be watered in moderate doses. The following frequency of watering is optimal:

• summer – 3 times a month;
• winter – once every 20 days.

Pay attention to the degree of dryness of the soil - it should not become too dry at depth, otherwise this will lead to the loss of the spectacular appearance of the plant. If the soil has dried more than 3 cm down, you can water the flower again

Also make sure that the water is settled, not hard and warm, slightly above room temperature. Since the flower does not need abundant moisture, stagnation of water is unacceptable, this will lead to pathological disorders of the root system, rot and disease. The tropical guest is not afraid of drought, but is very sensitive to high humidity. To prevent this from happening, wait half an hour after moistening the soil and rid the tray of excess water.

Trimming

During normal development, peperomia does not need to be pruned; it is enough to pinch the top of the elongated shoots in the spring for the bush to branch. Pinching is done approximately one-fifth of the length from the top. However, there are times when the flower becomes bald, and then pruning becomes necessary. After this procedure, new shoots and stems are formed. When pruning, do not touch just a few leaves at the bottom of the plant.

Fertilizer

Feeding the plant is carried out twice a month during the most intensive development and growth, that is, from the beginning of spring to the end of summer. You can use any liquid mineral fertilizers aimed at home flora, succulents, and deciduous plants. The main thing is to maintain a small dosage, about half the usual amount. From September until spring, it is enough to fertilize once every month and a half; you can eliminate this stage of care if the plant feels well enough. Take precautions, as overfeeding can have a negative impact on the condition of the flower. Always moisten the soil first, otherwise you can burn the sensitive root system.

Dividing the bush

How does peperomia propagate by dividing the bush? This is a more cumbersome process, but the most effective in terms of obtaining an already formed plant. Do this in the spring when replanting the plant.

• – Remove the flower from the pot along with the earthen lump using the transshipment method.
• Carefully free the root system from the soil and carefully inspect it.
• Remove all rotten and dried roots, and then divide the bush into several fragments. Each of them must have at least two stems.
• Place each fragment in a separate pot, fill it with fertilized soil and water.

About caring for peperomia

Temperature: Peperomia is a heat-loving plant. In summer, the optimal temperature for it is 20-22 °C. At the same time, peperomia does not tolerate heat and stuffiness; for it, the permissible temperature limit is 25°C. In winter, the temperature should not fall below 16 °C; on cold windowsills, special warm stands must be placed under the pot.

Peperomia obtusifolia Variegata.

Lighting: The plant needs bright, diffused lighting and does not tolerate direct sunlight. Western and northern windows are perfect for it. The degree of lighting intensity depends on the type of foliage color. Peperomia with variegated leaves need more intense lighting than specimens with solid dark green leaves.

Watering: Peperomia species with fleshy leaves are classified as succulent plants. They are able to accumulate moisture, so they need moderate watering immediately after the earthen clod has completely dried out. In summer, watering is easy to regulate; in winter, watering is done once every 10-20 days. Such peperomia easily tolerate dry soil, but are difficult to waterlogged, which can lead to rotting. Types of peperomia with thin, delicate leaves, on the contrary, need stable, regular watering, without drying out the earthen clod, which can lead to the complete death of the entire bush. Water the peperomia with soft, settled water, always warm.

Peperomia griseoargentea.

Air humidity: Depends on the type of peperomia. Succulent plant species are not demanding on air humidity. Species with delicate leaves are more demanding and require regular spraying, but peperomia with folded and drooping leaves should not be sprayed.

Crown formation: Peperomia needs to be formed; if this is not done, the plant quickly loses its attractiveness, the shoots do not grow evenly - some stretch out, while others, on the contrary, lag behind in growth. In order to get a bush from a peperomia, it is enough to cut off its crown, the plant will begin to actively branch, and young side shoots will appear.

Peperomia clusiifolia Jelly.

Fertilizers: During the period of active growth in spring and summer. Contributed 2 times a month. In winter, peperomia can also be fertilized once a month. For fertilization, special complex fertilizers for decorative deciduous plants are used.

Soil: Very important for this plant. The soil must be loose and breathable. A universal substrate is suitable, to which sand or vermiculite is added for looseness. For nutritional value, you can add a little humus. There should be a thick layer of drainage at the bottom of the pot, which will protect the roots from excessive waterlogging.

Peperomia claviformis.

Transplantation: This bush is replanted only as needed, in the spring, using the transshipment method. The signal for replanting should be the roots peeking out of the drainage holes of the pot. Peperomia has a poorly developed root system, so you need to choose a small, small pot for it. When replanting, try not to bury the base of the plant stem.

Pests: Peperomia bushes are quite resistant to pests, but sometimes with improper care they can be affected by mealybugs and spider mites.

Peperomia transplant

In the spring, when the warm sun begins to warm up the city air, the hottest time begins for peperomia lovers. It's time to move older pets into larger containers. This must be done for the first three years. The soil should be light and very loose so that shallow roots can breathe. Excess moisture will be removed using the drainage system.

Home care

There is nothing difficult about caring for peperomia at home.

There are general wishes and nuances of care for individual varieties. Attention! This tropical plant does not like excess moisture. It would seem that this plant is tropical, which means it should require especially abundant watering and high ambient humidity. But, in most cases, peperomia calmly tolerates soil drying out.

Because moisture accumulates in the leaves and stems. In winter, you can think about watering once every half month. Since it is believed that at this time the flower is resting.

It is also not worth spraying or wiping the leaves during the cold season. But from March to October, please. Peperomia with thick, fleshy leaves is best wiped gently with a damp sponge. You can only feed from March to November once or twice a month with ordinary fertilizers for indoor plants.

To prevent the foliage from becoming pale and becoming smaller, make sure there is plenty of light. But not too much. For light shading of windows, you can use paper.

Diseases - what is peperomia afraid of?

• Freeze – it freezes already at +15 C; • catch a cold in a slight draft; • overheat. The exception is peperomia obtufolia, which can withstand +26 C; • excess water. Most often you can water Peperomia shriveled; • open sunlight. The most shade-loving species is the liana. All these omissions in care, as a rule, lead to rotting of the root system and loss of the leafy part of the flower.

In addition, there are natural pests

Almost all ailments can be cured if you begin to carefully care for the diseased plant in a timely manner.

Reproduction of peperomia at home

You can get a new plant using several methods: • Cuttings. The upper part of the plant with two to three buds is cut off, placed in a damp mixture of peat and sand and covered with a glass jar to create a greenhouse effect. • Leafy. A leaf with a short cutting is placed in the same mixture and conditions. • Seeds. It is necessary to place the seeds in containers with a nutrient mixture and create special conditions with sufficient humidity and temperature. Seed germination is usually not high. Since the third method is a very labor-intensive task, they usually use the first two. In addition, it is almost impossible to obtain seeds at home from flowering peperomia. Because it is cross-pollinated. This means that seeds in such flowers cannot be produced.

The ease of care and originality of foliage colors have won the love of many flower growers around the world. This is confirmed by the variety of flower varieties that are used for cultivation not only at home, but also in the design of gardens and parks.

Methods of propagation of chokeberry.

It is best to propagate this crop in the fall. However, you can do this work in the spring. It should be noted right away that due to the fact that in different regions there are different climatic conditions, the timing of work on propagating shrubs will, of course, be different. That is why, first of all, you should take into account weather conditions and coordinate them with the gardening calendar. If you propagate chokeberry in the fall, it is best to do this in September or October. It is not difficult to care for the plantings in the future, and if you propagate the shrub in the spring, it is better to carry out planting work in March or April. However, take into account the climatic conditions of the region where you live. Therefore, everything needs to be done in a timely manner. Chokeberry is propagated by many methods. Firstly, this is cuttings, secondly, breeding layering, as well as dividing shrubs. Chokeberry can be propagated by seeds, through grafting, and also through the formation of root suckers. It should be said that propagation by seeds and grafting is the least effective compared to the previous proposed methods, therefore, if you are a beginner gardener, then it is best to do, for example, cuttings. But only experienced gardeners can graft a plant or plant seeds. If we talk about cuttings, it can be done both in spring and autumn. In order to cut off the necessary branches, it is best to choose young shoots. Cuttings are cut at the end of May or at the beginning of June. And then they are grown in greenhouses or greenhouses. It should be said that they winter there too. But it will be possible to plant cuttings in a permanent habitat only next season. Very often, gardeners take cuttings in the fall. For this purpose, already lignified annuals are used; it is these shoots that adapt better to new conditions. Moreover, these shoots are immediately planted in a new place. In principle, they take root normally. If we talk about dividing the bush, then it should be noted that it is best to divide old plants. They must have strong shoots and a good root system, it is better to do this in the spring; before this procedure, it is recommended to water the chokeberry intensively; after transplanting, the plants are also watered abundantly, and the soil around them is loosened. Layers are rooted mainly in the spring. For this purpose, both one-year and two-year-olds are used. It is these shoots that best take root in the soil and form roots. In order to propagate chokeberry using the layering method, you will need to dig peculiar grooves, bend the shoots to the ground, cover them with loose soil and wait for the root system to form. But it will be possible to separate the shoots from the mother bush only next season. It should also be said that sometimes new plants do not take root. A lot of shoots usually form around the chokeberry bushes, so the root shoots are often transplanted to new habitats, separating them from the mother bush. And they do this throughout the season. However, it is most effective to carry out these procedures in summer and spring. New plants must be given time to adapt to new conditions. But it takes a very long time to propagate chokeberry with seeds; in addition, such planting material will need to be stratified, but despite this, the germination rate of the seeds is still very low, and the plant takes a very long time to develop. You can more quickly propagate chokeberry by grafting; this must be done in the spring, but in order for the cutting to take root well on the new plant, you will need to provide the shrub with favorable growing conditions and care for it properly. However, even in this case, the vaccine does not take root very well. Well, we have described the main methods of propagation of chokeberry, and now we will proceed to a more specific description of the presented methods of propagation.

Leaf propagation

In order to get a young plant from an old leaf, first select the leaf itself. He must look healthy. Cut it straight from the stem along with the petiole. Treat the cut area with ash or crushed charcoal.

If the cutting is long enough, then place the leaf in a glass of clean water and wait for the root panicle to form. If the cutting is short, then dig it in. Moisten the soil well.

Some gardeners do this not immediately, but a day after cutting. Water the buried leaf regularly, do not allow the top layer of soil to dry out. Place the pot with the leaf in a place that is not too brightly lit. If you cover the pot with a transparent film, the root panicle will form faster than it does in the open air.

After that, all that remains is to be patient. The first stem with the leaf propagation method will appear in six months. As for the formation of the root panicle, you will see it within three weeks.

Origin and appearance of peperomia

Botanists have described about a thousand species of peperomia, and only 17 of them are found in Africa. The main habitat of the plant is the tropical forests of South America. Many peperomias are perennial epiphytes. The plant prefers shady places, lives under and on trees, and loves loose peaty soils. Sometimes peperomia can even be found on rocks. The flower has thick stems and fleshy leaves with grooves of contrasting colors. Most members of the genus have tiny flowers that are “packed” into a characteristic greenish-brown spike (spaix). Some species, for example, Fraser's peperomia (fraseri) from Ecuador, have more attractive and fragrant white flowers.

Peperomia is loved by gardeners for its unpretentiousness.

The genus includes several species with tuberous roots. These are mainly peperomias, native to Mexico. After flowering, the foliage dies back and the tuber can withstand long periods of drought. Other members form a caudex (a trunk bearing characteristics of both stem and root) and may be of interest to collectors of unusually shaped exotic plants.

The size and color of peperomia leaf blades are incredibly varied. The most typical shape is heart-shaped, round or broadly oval. Breeders have developed varieties with miniature and large, smooth and corrugated, glossy and pubescent leaves. The color varies from light to dark green; the leaf blades can be decorated with spots, stripes and streaks of contrasting colors. The leaves are located oppositely and quite densely on a small shoot, forming a compact decorative bush.

The size, color and shape of peperomia leaf blades are incredibly varied.

How does a plant reproduce?

Seeds

There are no special conditions for selecting seed, so absolutely all seeds selected for this method are suitable. To propagate peperomia by seeds, you must perform the following steps :

1. Prepare a pot of suitable size in advance.
2. Fill it with prepared or purchased soil with additives.
3. Place the seeds in the substrate, but do not sprinkle soil on top.
4. Moderately moisten the soil.
5. Place the pot with seeds in a dark room with a temperature of 24 - 25 degrees.
6. Immediately after the first shoots, transplant them into separate small containers.

Cuttings

This method is the simplest, guaranteeing almost one hundred percent rooting of the plant’s stem shoots. Let's see how to propagate a plant in order to plant and root it later :

1. Carefully cut off the top of the cutting, which has at least 1 node, using scissors or a sharp blade.
2. Place the cutting, separated from the mother plant, in previously prepared or purchased soil in a pot of a suitable size.
3. Cover the container with a glass lid.
4. Provide a temperature of 24 - 25 degrees.

Dividing the bush

This method is used if the plant has become large in size. The essence of the method is to divide the root system into several parts.

1. Carefully remove the plant from the pot and clean the roots of excess soil.
2. Cut the root system with a treated and well-sharpened blade into 2–4 parts (depending on the size of the plant).
3. Sprinkle the cut areas with crushed activated charcoal or charcoal.
4. Plant the divided plant piece by piece in pots filled with drainage and prepared soil.
5. Moisten the substrate.