Hosta - planting, care, propagation in open ground

Decorative hosta foliage will decorate any flower garden. Hostas go well with perennials, annuals and conifers. I developed an interest in these plants a long time ago, but never had the opportunity to use them on my site. And now, when I am faced with the task of creating a flowerbed from scratch from perennials, this plant seems irreplaceable to me. Why will I use hosts:

• Decorative foliage will dilute fresh perennials that have not yet gained strength.
• The plant will add volume to the new flower garden.
• It is possible to receive planting material for free (relatives:).

I understand perfectly well that hosta seedlings also need time to begin to please the eye. But this flower garden is more like a long-term plan. I am thinking through the scheme so that in the future I will get an attractive and well-groomed flower bed.

Something like this

And this requires more than one season. Still, perennials take a long time to reveal their power and beauty.

I want to implement the following flower bed scheme with hostas and other perennials.

And now more about the plant, so as not to make a mistake with the place of sale, soil preparation, and choice of varieties.

Landing place

Hostas should not be planted in full sun; there should be partial shade. Where the area is illuminated from 12 noon to 5 pm, it is better not to place these plants. I’m planning a place for a flower garden on the north side of the house, and it provides good shade. The sun is there only a couple of hours after sunrise in the morning and only a little bit in the evening. In open areas of the hosta, the foliage fades, the contrasting border fades, and burns appear.

Trees or shrubs growing nearby can also provide partial shade. Constant dense shade will also not benefit the plants. In spring, the ground in such areas takes longer to warm up, as a result of which the development of new shoots is inhibited. And flower stalks may not form at all.

Soil preparation

Small deviations in soil composition from the ideal are unlikely to noticeably affect the appearance. Hostas are fairly unpretentious plants. But there are some recommendations from experienced gardeners:

• The composition of the soil is light loam, neutral, slightly alkaline or slightly acidic. Nutritious and well-drained soil. It is important to maintain moist soil, but at the same time avoid stagnation of water; it is better not to plant a swamp.
• It is advisable to add moisture retainers to sandy soil - peat, humus, compost. It will not be superfluous to mulch the plantings.
• Clay soil is diluted with fine gravel, organic matter with coarse fiber, and good drainage is provided.
• Avoid alkalizing the soil. Apply acidic peat and neutralize the alkali using other means. Yellowing leaves and loss of brightness will indicate that the plant needs acidification.
• On the unflooded shore of a reservoir, most hosta varieties reveal all their beauty. Increased humidity promotes the development of decorative foliage and helps to gain strength faster.

How to choose a suitable place in the garden for hosta: soil

Hostas tolerate most soil types as long as they have good drainage. They do not do well in clay soil that holds too much moisture. They prefer rich and fertile soil, full of organic matter and breathable. Well, despite their powerful appearance, hostas are not such water fans, do not plant them in a swampy place or in a pond :)

For container plants, use standard ready-made potting soil with good drainage.

Hostas in container culture, Wollerton Old Hall (Photo: Sergey V Kalyakin / Shutterstock.com)

In the area where you want to plant hostas, work the soil to the depth of a spade. Add organic matter to the soil that will loosen it and slightly acidify the soil: aged compost, rotted manure, ash, leaf humus. Apply a well-balanced slow-release fertilizer annually at planting or early growth in the spring.

The ideal pH for hostas is between 6 and 6.5.

Planting in open ground

A seedling with 2-3 buds and a healthy rhizome with elastic roots 10-12 cm long is suitable for planting. Hostas tolerate replanting well, but it is better to do this in cloudy weather in the fall.

• For a medium-sized seedling, prepare a hole approximately 30*30cm, and lay drainage on the bottom.
• Compost, peat and complex fertilizers are added to the soil (no more than 50 grams for this volume of depression).
• The plant is placed in a prepared hole, the roots are straightened and covered with soil. Tamp down a little and water.
• The ground around the plant is mulched with bark or peat. The root collar is not deeply buried, maximum 1-2 cm.
• There should be at least 50 cm between seedlings.

Replanting after purchase

A perennial herbaceous crop, numbering more than 40 species, grows in the Far East and East Asia. For the bush, a place near a pond is preferable.

On a note! Residents of the Middle Kingdom add hosta to their food. They believe that the plant has divine powers.

Queen of the Shady Garden

The correct selection of location is responsible for the well-being and life expectancy of the flower. The perennial can grow in a flowerbed without replanting for 20 years. It serves as a sure foundation for a flower bed of continuous flowering.

If you are breeding hostas, planting and caring in open ground is ideal for spring: from the 3rd decade of April to mid-May (after the threat of return frosts).

It is advisable to prepare the soil in the fall: dig up the flower bed using a spade and add organic matter.

Summer residents are interested in when and how to plant hosta. Many gardeners practice planting from late summer to the first half of September. If the flower is planted later in the fall, it may not take root before frost arrives. The soil is intensively watered before planting.

Crops are grown in the garden in unprotected soil; bushes are planted in flower beds near hedges or together with ground covers and ferns. Some gardeners grow hosta in tubs, flowerpots, and containers. They decorate the site with original compositions.

Hosta in a tub

The perennial plant is not afraid of cold weather. Crops or rhizomes purchased in pots are planted in the garden bed in the spring when the air warms up to +12...+14 °C. Adult garden specimens do not need shelter for the winter season.

Hosta does not like stagnant water, waterlogging of the soil, or strong winds. Water the flower early in the morning at the root.

Important! Do not water the bush from above during the heat - traces remain on the foliage. There is no need to spray the hosta.

Optimal place

Hostas are preferable for planting:

• a place in partial shade that is sheltered from the winds;
• humus soil, with drainage, moist, with a neutral or slightly acidic pH level. Hosta flower does not grow well on heavy clay and sand. The soil mixture should include humus, peat, vermiculite, and leaf turf in equal proportions. Crops like fertilizers.

It is advisable to locate the flower garden in an area protected from drafts: the lawn behind the house or near the pond, the northern zone of the garden. But variegated varieties need sunlight to maintain their bright colors. For blue and gray varieties, shade is suitable; they only need 2 hours of light a day. The partial shade determines how the leaves will grow, and the development of the bush slows down. The hosta will be damaged by bright sun throughout the day - leaf burns are possible.

Selecting a location is a key component of success, which tells you how to plant the hosta correctly. The sun is responsible for the correct color, but it accelerates aging or completely destroys the foliage. The most suitable location is shade and partial shade.

Growing in full sun is not suitable for the plants. Some varieties require a lot of sunlight and special care: a constantly moistened substrate to replenish water supplies due to rapid evaporation.

Advice! It is not recommended to grow a flower near white walls or other surfaces that additionally reflect the rays of the sun, which dry out the foliage.

To grow a plant in the sun you will need:

• specially prepare soil containing compost and peat;
• add mulch to protect the soil from overheating and moisture evaporation.

When growing a crop in a sunny flower garden, the color of the leaf blade will change under the following conditions:

• yellow hostas will get white foliage;
• in blue varieties the leaves become greenish.

Yellow varieties cope with a large amount of ultraviolet radiation in the morning and at noon. It is preferable to grow multi-colored varieties in partial shade. Pigment-free varieties (Color Glory, Supernova, George Smith, Tokudama Aureonebulosa, Dance with Me) are placed in a flowerbed without sunny access.

Step by step planting process

When planting hostas in an open flower garden, they are guided by a step-by-step diagram. Required:

1. Dig holes in increments of 40-60 cm for ordinary and 90-100 cm for tall species.
2. Fill the hole 2/3 full with peat or compost.
3. Water the seedlings, remove them from the pot along with the lump of earth, and inspect the cuttings for damage or root rot.
4. Place the seedlings in the holes.
5. Straighten the roots, cover with soil, water.
6. Add mulch to the soil around the seedling - sawdust or bark.

Planting material for planting is selected carefully. 10-12 cm roots are elastic. It is desirable that the seedling has 2 or 3 buds.

How to select planting material

Important! Before planting, the plant is stored in cool and dark conditions at a temperature of +5...+10 °C. Just right for an insulated loggia, a shelf at the bottom of the refrigerator, a cellar.

When planting hostas, the buds are located at soil level. If necessary, additional soil is added under the root.

Planting crops in spring in unprotected soil is determined by weather conditions and air temperature. In the Urals it falls at the end of the spring or the beginning of the summer season; in the Krasnodar Territory, work begins in the last ten days of April, in the Moscow region - before May 15.

How to care

Caring for a hosta is no different from the standard: timely watering, regular loosening of the soil, applying fertilizer, pruning shoots after flowering and mulching.

Watering

After planting in open ground, it is necessary to water every 3-4 days if there is no rain. It is advisable to maintain this regime until a new leaf appears. Then water as needed, only in the morning; evening watering is excluded. If there is a prolonged drought, it is necessary to moisten the soil daily, at the root, avoiding water getting on the foliage. The optimal solution is drip irrigation; it is provided for at the site planning stage.

Loosening

If we do not mulch the soil, then loosening should be carried out regularly, while simultaneously removing weeds. It is advisable to do this after watering.

Top dressing

It is permissible to carry out several feedings per year. In the spring, before the leaves appear, nitrogen-containing fertilizers are applied; they contribute to the growth of green mass. The second feeding is carried out in mid-summer. during the flowering period with potassium-phosphorus preparations. The next feeding occurs at the end of August, using organic fertilizers, for example, mullein solution.

Trimming

It is mandatory to prune flower stalks immediately after flowering. If you do not plan to collect seeds. Damaged sheets - burnt or diseased - should be removed as soon as they appear. To stimulate the growth of dormant buds for the purpose of subsequent division of the bush, the foliage is mowed completely.

Mulching

For hostas, mulching the root zone is mandatory. This will help retain moisture and prevent the soil from crusting over. To do this, use pine needles, crushed bark, and peat. This creates almost ideal conditions for slugs under the hosta foliage. Therefore, we will prepare to fight them, periodically shake up the mulch and eliminate uninvited guests.

How to plant hostas correctly: 5 steps

1 step. Soak the roots in water before planting. Sometimes hostas come from nurseries in bare root bags. Be sure to soak such planting material in water for several hours before planting. If the plant looks tired, let's just say, add Zircon to the water according to the instructions.

If you don't replant your hostas right away, let them soak to keep the roots moist.

2. Unravel the roots. Just before planting, carefully untangle the roots. Use your fingers to comb them thoroughly and make sure all the roots are facing in the direction of growth.

Plants can suffocate if you try to plant them in soil with tangled roots. Such tangles can be seen when removing hostas from the cramped pots in which they were transported.

3. Dig holes and plant hostas. Hostas do not need a large space for planting: the width of the hole should correspond to the width of the plant's root system. Hosta varieties come in different sizes. To determine the correct spacing, check the plant tag. All but the smallest varieties usually take several years to reach their full size, and it is important that the plants have enough space to form a clump.

Place one hosta in each hole, being careful not to bend or tangle the roots. Make sure that only the roots of the plant are buried and the entire crown is above the ground, plant the plants at the same depth as they were in the pot. This is especially important when planting miniature varieties - for them, deepening the root collar is very undesirable.

4. Water each plant thoroughly immediately after planting.

5. Mulch the plantings with bark, small wood chips, fine gravel, and ripe compost. Mulch will help keep the soil moist, prevent weeds from growing, and protect plants from slugs.

Reproduction

Hosta is grown from seeds or propagated by dividing the bush. Let's consider the features of these methods.

Growing Hosta from Seeds

This is a rather labor-intensive process. From the moment of sowing the seeds to the decorative appearance, at least three years will pass. Growing stages:

• Seeds are collected in September after ripening. We focus on the color of the seed pod - it should turn brown.
• Next, the collected material is cleared of debris and dried, placing it in a thin layer on a horizontal surface. In winter, the seeds are stored in a cool, dark, dry place.
• In the spring, before planting, they are soaked in a growth stimulator. Prepare nutritious soil, which is pre-disinfected by calcination or treatment with potassium permanganate. The soil is placed in pots or containers no more than 12 cm high that have drainage holes. Drainage is laid at the bottom, then a layer of nutrient soil. Next, moisten it and distribute the seeds. Cover the top with a small layer of soil - 0.5-1cm.
• Containers with future seedlings are placed in a warm place, but not in direct sunlight, away from radiators and drafts. Cover with film or glass until shoots appear. Next, monitor the soil moisture; it should not be overdried or waterlogged. It is better if watering is carried out through a tray.
• When the first leaves appear, you should pick. Once it becomes clear that the plant has tolerated the picking well, hardening can begin. To do this, the host is taken out for a short time to a balcony or street where there are no drafts. In July it is already possible to plant in open ground, avoiding strongly lit places. Otherwise, the plant will quickly burn in the sun. Let these be shaded areas or a place where the sun appears only in the morning.

Propagation of hostas by dividing the bush

Starting from the fourth year of the plant’s life, the adult hosta can be divided for propagation. The best time for this procedure is spring. Although the hosta can easily tolerate transplantation throughout the growing season.

• The hostas dig up the ground around them. The bush is lifted using a garden fork as a lever. Then the roots of the plant are placed in a solution of potassium permanganate and inspected for the presence of pests - slugs and snails. .
• Using a sharp instrument treated with an antiseptic, the hosta is divided into bushes according to their growth points. Rotten and dry roots should be removed.
• Next, a planting hole with drainage and fertilization is prepared for each plot. Cuttings are planted, compacted and watered, and mulched.

Hosta after flowering

Preparing hosta for winter

Before the onset of cold weather, cover the base of the hosta bushes with sawdust, peat or dry humus, adding tobacco dust to the mulch against slugs and spraying it with Fitosporin to protect dormant plants from bacterial and fungal infections. Then cover the bushes with spruce branches, brushwood or dry branches, but under no circumstances use plastic film, roofing felt or other airtight insulation, under which the hosta may dry out or rot.

Hosta pruning

To answer your questions about whether to prune the hosta, and if so, when to prune the hosta, we answer: this procedure is not necessary in the fall; many people remove last year’s leaves from the bush in the spring. If you allow the plant to bloom, then after the inflorescences have withered, the flower shoots are removed so that the bush does not needlessly feed an already unnecessary organ, and clumps of succulent leaves will decorate the garden for some time. Preparing the hosta for winter begins when it loses its attractiveness. If you decide to prune your hosta for the winter, wait until its leaves turn yellow first, but know that you must complete the procedure before the first frost. Then follow the recommendations described in the previous paragraph.

Varieties

Hosta has a wide variety of species, among which there are the most suitable options for growing in open ground.

White-edged

Hybrid with medium-sized broad-lanceolate leaves. It has rich shades of green mass with a white border. This gives the plant an elegant appearance. It blooms in mid-summer with small purple flowers.

Bloated

A dark green hosta with glossy leaves. The bract has a wide heart-shaped shape. It blooms with lilac or purple flowers on an erect peduncle. The color of the flowers will be lilac. The sheets are uneven, with small waves.

Ovoid

Notable for the round shape of the bushes, the green leaves are ovoid in shape. The peduncle can reach 50 cm. It blooms with lilac-blue flowers. The leaves of some varieties may have yellow stripes.

Wavy

A hybrid variety of hosta. The bract has an oblong, ovoid, wavy shape, with white inclusions in the center. The flowers resemble a bell and are purple in color. Blooms in mid-summer. Varieties of this species are represented by crops with green foliage with a white stripe or a light center.

Siebold

The bract has a combined heart-ovate shape. The leaves have a waxy coating on the surface. Blooms with pale lilac flowers. A popular species among gardeners, varieties and varieties also come in shades of grey, dove or blue. Siebold is very often used as a mother plant for breeding work; new varieties of perennial are bred.

Fortune

An artificially bred variety. Externally, the plant is similar to the previous species, but smaller in size. The heart-shaped bract has a waxy coating. When flowering, there are many funnel-shaped bells on the peduncle. Painted in purple shades. It blooms in late summer and includes several varieties of different leaf color and bract size.

Curly

The heart-shaped leaves of this hosta grow up to 16 cm in length. The peculiarity lies in the different colors of the outer and inner sides of the leaf: the bottom surface is glossy, the top is matte green, and the leaf has a white stripe along the edge. The flower stalks are long and clearly visible in the dense foliage. The inflorescence contains 30-40 flowers, 4-5 centimeters long. Petals are lilac with yellow anthers. It blooms in late summer and has a slow growth rate.

Lanceolate

The bract of this hosta is lanceolate-ovate, rich in color, with brown inclusions. The color of the flowers is purple with dark stripes. It blooms late and decorates the flower garden until late autumn.

Podorozhnovaya

The leaf also has an ovoid shape with a glossy surface. Dense flowering occurs in mid-summer. White bells with an unobtrusive aroma.

Erectifolia

This hosta can form a dense, dark green shrub with foliage growing vertically from the ground. It blooms with purple flowers throughout almost the entire summer.

Diseases and pests

Hosta, like other garden plants, is susceptible to diseases and pest attacks. Listed below are the most common problems when growing hostas.

Hosta Virus X

The virus spreads by mixing the sap of an infected plant with the sap of a healthy one. This often happens during the care process or when replanting plants. There are many outdoor grown varieties available in the market. New plants in the garden can become a source of infection. The incubation period of the disease takes up to several years, depending on the variety. Therefore, a seemingly healthy plant can unexpectedly become a source of a virus.

What is dangerous:

• any plant originating from an unknown source can carry the virus;
• if you are not confident in the plants, you need to be careful when caring for them;
• It is recommended to use gloves and disposable plastic knives for each hosta.

The virus is most often noticed on Gold Standard, Striptease, Sum and Substance varieties. But the list of vulnerable varieties is constantly growing. The disease does not kill plants. The main threat is the rapid spread of the virus. Because symptoms can take several years to appear, HVX virus has infected hundreds or thousands of plants around the world. If a batch of seedlings shows signs of infection with the virus, it must be destroyed.

You should not buy hostas from a batch that has even the slightest symptoms on at least one plant. Infection can occur every time a bush is pruned and gloves or tools are not disinfected. Infected plants must be carefully dug up with a large number of roots and destroyed. Hostas cannot be planted in this place until the remaining roots rot.

Infiltrates, color changes (spots similar to blots on paper) are usually the first noticeable symptoms. These are early stage symptoms of hosta disease that appear in most plants with HVX. Usually the spot is characterized by a color different from the surrounding tissue and is located symmetrically along the veins. The virus “enters” the leaves through vessels with juice, from where it spreads to the leaf tissue, causing discoloration. Sunken, indented tissue is usually a sign of a more severe infection; it appears that the leaf tissue has been destroyed and all the water has drained from the affected area. Although the word "dehydration" is sometimes used to describe the phenomenon, the tissue is not dry or dead and may remain so until the end of the season. Recession may be accompanied by a change in hosta color. Spots and specks are the third type of symptoms. Can also be caused by other viruses

Plants with these symptoms should be considered infected with the virus and destroyed so as not to infect healthy neighbors. It has been proven that there are no varieties resistant to this virus.

Do HVX symptoms look attractive? The impact of HVX on some hosts looks attractive. The spots and other symptoms help the plant to look denser, more compact, and the leaves sometimes have a more beautiful color. Some nursery owners and gardeners name infected hostas and sell them as new varieties. How quickly does HVX spread? Dr. Lockhart, who discovered the HVX virus, says the virus is relatively difficult to spread. Compared to other viruses spread by insects and other natural hosts, HVX does not have this ability.

Gardeners and nursery owners believe that the virus spreads when pruning and dividing plants. Can infected plants be cured? The virus will not disappear on its own. It remains on the plant forever. There is currently no cure for the virus. When propagating by division, if the mother bush had a virus, it will spread to all plants obtained by this method. Many infected bushes from supermarkets are obtained this way. Plants appear healthy, but the virus appears with growth after a few years.

Does the virus kill or limit plant growth? The virus affects the hosta, but the infected plant can survive for many years. Viruses affect bushes in different ways, and some symptoms go unnoticed. Symptoms of the virus may disappear, which does not mean the plant is cured. The virus remains and is capable of infecting other hosts. Sometimes environmental factors can limit the growth of the virus population and the intensity of symptoms.

Will removing the infected leaf or infected part of the plant help? Removing infected tissue has no effect. When the virus becomes visible, it is already present, in the whole plant or most parts of it.

Snails

Hosta has few natural enemies, but snails become a serious problem when growing. The leaves of many varieties are a delicacy for snails and slugs.

Natural barriers are installed against snails:

• mini-fences made of galvanized steel sheet, about 20 cm high, or tape (it is important not to injure yourself on such a fence);
• dry sawdust, planed bark, barley husks;
• the soil near the plant is sprinkled with stone flour or wood ash, but these materials are effective only on dry days;
• sharp gravel, crushed clinker, egg shells, sharp sand, tree needles, coniferous shrubs, barberry twigs, holly leaves, broken glass;
• quicklime, kainite, superphosphate, salt - the use of these preparations is effective before precipitation;
• after contact with the drugs, slugs begin to secrete large amounts of mucus, dying from dehydration; the use of salt can lead to soil salinization;
• site treatment methods: frequent mowing of lawns, collection of plant debris;
• setting snail traps - grapefruits, cucumbers, cabbage leaves, chopped carrots, apples, potato halves, beet slices or lettuce;
• traps need to be systematically checked and emptied;
• chemicals: Glanzit, Mesurol, Nemaslug - used when there are a lot of slugs.

You should not water the plants in the evenings, as this will create favorable conditions for snails to feed on. The optimal time to water hostas is early in the morning.

Fungal leaf spot

The flower is relatively immune to disease. If humidity rises for a long period of time, fungal diseases can occur. Fungal leaf spot is caused by the fungi Colletotrichum gloeosporioides and Phyllosticta funkiae. When the disease occurs, rusty spots appear on infected leaves, and sometimes the spots turn brown. After a while, the center of the spots becomes lighter and a group of fungal spores appears on it.

The development of the disease can be prevented by carefully raking fallen leaves and removing plant debris left in flower beds in the fall. It is also worth weeding the soil regularly and avoid wetting the leaves when watering. The problem can be controlled fairly easily with fungicides available at garden centers.

When the leaves are severely affected, you will have to apply the fungicide Topsin M 500 SC. Spraying must be repeated after 7-14 days.

Classification

There are several groups based on the external characteristics of both wild and hybrid species. The gradation of plants depends on size. According to the American classification, the following groups can be distinguished:

• dwarf - height does not exceed 10 centimeters;
• miniature – grow up to 15 centimeters;
• small - plants up to 25 centimeters;
• medium - grow up to half a meter;
• large – these hostas can reach 70 centimeters in height;
• gigantic - over 70 centimeters.

There are hosts that belong to intermediate groups of this classification.

In addition to size, the following features may be taken into account:

• leaf shape – round, oval, elongated, heart-shaped;
• type of leaf surface - corrugated, matte, glossy, wavy, bronze-metallic;
• green color – white, golden, gray and blue shades, deep green.

Popular varieties and types of hosta with photos

White feathers

One of the best varieties with white young leaves. As it grows, the veins turn green, and then the rest of the leaf. The size of the leaf plate is about 15x5 cm. It blooms in June-August with lilac leaves. Peduncles can reach 60 cm. The height of an adult plant is about 40 cm. It tolerates frosts down to -35°C, so it is suitable for most regions of Russia.

Gold standard

Large ovate leaves. The leaves are soft green with a dark green border and change their color to golden over time. They are about 25 cm long. It blooms in July-August with light lilac flowers. An adult hosta grows up to 70 cm in height and up to 120 cm in width. This should be taken into account before planting in a permanent location. Belongs to frost-resistant varieties.

Bright groom

The variety is distinguished by heart-shaped leaves, curved in an arc and a strongly wavy border. The bush is shaped like a fountain. It blooms at the end of summer on a peduncle about 45 cm high. A medium-sized plant up to 40 cm in height, up to 85 cm in diameter. Frost-resistant variety suitable for the climate of Moscow and the Moscow region.

Malachite Box

The leaves have a rounded shape and multi-colored lines - from malachite to milky green, measuring 20*30 cm. It blooms with white bells in July. Grows both in partial shade and in illuminated areas. The variety is frost-resistant, suitable for most regions of Russia.

Avocado

Large, fast-growing hosta with dense and convex leaves. Bright green in the center and darker at the edges. The similarity of shape and color with avocado gave the variety its name. Blooms with large bell-shaped flowers in August. Reaches 70 cm in height and 120 cm in width. It can be grown in the Urals, as it tolerates frosts down to -40 degrees.

Blue Angel

The fast-growing giant hosta has fluted leaves with a blue tint. Blooms in July-August with white flowers. It is resistant to diseases and pests. It can reach a height of 120 cm. Suitable for growing in regions with a temperate climate, tolerates frosts up to 35 degrees.

Atlantis

A hybrid variety growing up to 80 cm in height and up to 170 cm in width. It has a dense, bright green leaf plate with a wide border of yellow or cream color.

Antiochus

A medium-sized variety with powerful green leaves edged with a creamy white stripe along the edge. Blooms in June with lilac flowers.

August moon

It has large heart-shaped leaves from yellow-green to golden color. Grows up to 50cm in height and up to 1 meter in width. Blooms in July-August with pale lavender flowers. The variety is frost-resistant, tolerates temperatures down to -40 degrees.

Albomarginata

Hosta Albomarginata is suitable for growing by beginning gardeners. It has a dense bush up to 60 cm in height and up to 1 meter in width. The leaves are grooved, dark green with a white edge. Blooms with purple flowers. The ideal place for growing will be partial shade; it is not demanding on the soil. Overwinters at temperatures down to -35 degrees, resistant to pests and infections.

T. Rex

T Rex is a variety of giant hosta that reaches 120 cm in height. Suitable as an accent plant for a flower bed. The leaves are green, with pronounced veining. Blooms with white flowers in June-July.

Albopicta

It has large heart-shaped leaves, a dome-shaped bush, light green with a green border. Grows up to 70 cm in height and up to 1 meter in width. Blooms in mid-summer with lilac or blue flowers. Frost-resistant variety, reaches its greatest decorative value by 5 years of age.

Lipstick blonde

A very bright representative with rich yellow foliage on red stems. Medium height - up to 40 cm in height and up to 50 cm in width. Blooms in July with lavender flowers.

Blue ivory

The dense, heart-shaped leaves have a blue tint with a creamy edge. The bush grows low up to 50 cm, but can reach 1 meter in width. The brightest color appears in the shade and partial shade. It will look impressive as an accent in a flower bed or surrounded by a lawn.

Mouse ears

The leaves are dense, blue-green in color and have a slightly rounded shape. Refers to miniature species, no more than 20 cm in height. Hosta mouse ears has several varieties, slightly different in leaf shade and shape. It blooms with lilac or white flowers collected in racemes.

Brim Cap

Compact kut with small grooved cup-shaped leaves with a wide cream-colored border. Blooms in July-August with purple flowers. The height is small, up to 35 cm. It is a frost-resistant variety and tolerates frosts down to -35 degrees.

What to plant next to hosta in the shade

Hosta companions are plants that do well in shade or partial shade. You can plant next to the hosta:

• Astilbe - will decorate the flowerbed with its blooming panicles;
• Heuchera is an unpretentious plant with bright leaves;
• Fern - will decorate a flowerbed with carved foliage;
• Primroses - add color to the flower garden in spring;
• Hydrangea - to form a bright multi-tiered flower bed.

Hosta with astilbe

Hostas with heucheras

Hosta with fern and ivy

Hosta care and cultivation

The main decoration of the hosta is its foliage. Over the course of a season, a plant leaf goes through the following stages:

• youth;
• maturity;
• aging;
• dying off.

The greatest decorativeness of foliage is observed in the plant during maturity. It is at this time that the hosta is especially beautiful.

To extend the maturity period you need:

• plant the plants correctly, taking into account the requirements of the variety;
• plant the flower in the correct substrate;
• ensure proper watering;
• apply fertilizer correctly on time;
• mulch the soil;
• provide proper care.

What to plant next to hostas in the flowerbed, along the fence and path

If you are designing a path along the edges of which you plan to plant hostas, then choose plants of the same variety. It is desirable that these be low-growing varieties. After planting, you need to be patient; the paths bordered by hostas will acquire a decorative appearance and completeness no sooner than after three seasons. You can complement the design with ground covers. Hostas - coleus in red shades will also perfectly complement the greenery. To make the hosta border look more picturesque in the spring, plant low primroses between them: crocuses, hyacinths, muscari.

Hosts along the tracks

When forming a composition along the fence, you can combine hosts with daylilies, irises, astilbe, and roses. In this case, it is necessary to observe tiers. Plan in advance the planting of plants in such a way that the decorative value of each of them is visible to your eye: low-growing plants in the foreground, behind them medium-height ones, and in the background - the tallest ones.

Hosta with hydrangeas

Subtleties of care

Timely watering is an important, but not the only component of caring for perennials. Hosta responds very well to the following forms of care:

• In the first 3-4 years, weeds are pulled out around young plants and the soil is loosened. If adult bushes grow, they are divided and planted.
• Every year at the beginning of the growing season, the bushes are fed with compost or humus.
• During the season, faded flower stalks are removed.
• In autumn, when the leaves have completely withered, they are cut off. Rhizomes are not afraid of frost, but may suffer from fluctuations in temperature and humidity. Therefore, if winters are snowless, perennials need shelter.

Crushed bark protects hosta rhizomes well from frost Source botanichka.ru

• For winter shelter, natural breathable materials are used. The most accessible are pine needles, foliage, crushed pine bark, and leaves. The protective layer is removed after the last frost.

A big mistake in caring for hostas is the refusal to mulch, that is, to apply sawdust, peat, fallen leaves, or fresh bark to the ground around the plants. Mulching is useful for several reasons: it retains heat and water in the root zone, repels slugs (especially if the mulch consists of pine cones), and prevents weeds from growing.

Mulching is carried out once a year, the layer is not very thick, no more than 5 cm, so that excess moisture does not cause the appearance of fungus. Any cones (cedar, pine, larch, spruce), open and clean, without stains, are suitable for mulch.

Hosts in garden design Source dizainexpert.ru

Examples of using hosta in landscape design - photos

Hostas in front of the house

Flowerbed with hostas

Hostas by the pond

Contrasting combinations with hosta

Hosta in the recreation area