Rules for growing Lilies: planting and care in the open ground, in the garden, photo

Lilies can be grown both in open ground and in flower pots. To grow beautiful flowers, you need to follow the rules for planting and caring for lilies in the open ground. This type of flowers is very sensitive to proper planting in the ground, since violation of this procedure can cause rotting of the bulb itself, death of the plant or lack of flowers.

It is important to know that lily bulbs are planted in a specific area for several years, since annual digging leads to weakening of the plants and a decrease in the size of the bulbs.

Planting lilies in the ground in spring

Both autumn and spring planting of bulbs is practiced. Experienced gardeners prefer to plant them in the fall. The reason is that the bulbs planted in the spring do not have time to become strong enough by the time autumn arrives, their roots do not perform their function sufficiently, so the plant is nourished only by the bulb itself, as a result of which its scales become thin, and the roots darken and begin to die . The second disadvantage of spring planting is the lack of children on the bulbs, which is important for propagation.

In addition, some bulbs may die during the winter, so some gardeners still prefer spring planting, citing a number of reasons:

1. The desired variety can be freely purchased at any time of the year, so there is no need to propagate them by children.
2. Bulbs dug up in the fall are preserved quite well in the refrigerator, which means they will not die in the winter as a result of getting wet or freezing.
3. It is always possible to provide the proper conditions for the successful growth and flowering of a crop in a new place.

Considering all the advantages and disadvantages of planting lilies in the ground in the spring, we can conclude that the choice of time of year for planting should be based on the varieties and types of flowers.

Note: For example, late-blooming lilies will bloom much better when planted in the spring, but it makes no sense to plant North American varieties in the spring. In addition, the climatic conditions of your region may also affect the choice of planting time. So, if in the area where you live the summer is short and cold, then it is not recommended to plant in spring, since the crops will bloom only the next year. It would be much more rational to plant them in mid-autumn.

It is also not recommended to plant lilies in late spring - early summer, since the plants will be weakened and more susceptible to various diseases. The optimal time for spring planting for central Russia is April (Figure 1).

Figure 1. Instructions for planting lilies in the ground

Lily lovers are advised to place autumn and spring plantings separately, since the preparatory work on the ground, watering regimes and feeding characteristics are radically different for them. Remember that spring planting has its own nuances: soil preparation, pre-treatment of the bulbs, which will be discussed below.

The author of the video will tell you how to properly plant lilies in the ground in the spring.

Selection and storage of planting material

Beautiful lilies can only be obtained from high-quality material. Therefore, when choosing planting material, pay attention to whether the bulbs bear visual signs of disease: rot, spots, mold; Are the roots dried?

Note: Ideally, all bulb scales should be the same color and texture, and the roots should reach a length of up to 5 cm. In addition, in the spring it is better to choose bulbs with small sprouts.

If you dug up the bulbs yourself in the fall, place them on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator and monitor their condition from time to time (Figure 2). Perhaps some of them will begin to sprout, then they need to be planted in pots and, with the arrival of spring, moved to open ground. To protect the bulbs from various types of pathogenic bacteria and fungi, it is recommended to carry out treatment for the purpose of disinfection. To do this, the planting material is first washed in plain water, then placed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate or fungicide.

Figure 2. Preparing bulbs for storage

Next, remove the damaged scales and thoroughly wash the bulbs in several waters. Treated in this way, the bulbs are planted in the ground, using cut plastic bottles as small greenhouses for young shoots.

Soil preparation and treatment

Lilies are quite picky about soil fertility. They do not tolerate heavy soils; for successful growth they need loose, fertile, well-drained soil. Therefore, it is so important to carry out the following preparatory activities several months before spring planting:

• Choose an area that is not flooded by spring waters;
• Dig the top layer of soil 40 cm deep;
• Arrange drainage using gravel or river pebbles to drain excess moisture;
• Add fresh soil if necessary;
• Enrich the soil with humus (do not use manure) or phosphorus-potassium fertilizer;
• Reduce the acidity of the soil by adding chalk or wood ash to it;
• Maintain soil moisture.

When all the preparatory work has been done and the ground has warmed up sufficiently, you can begin planting. To do this, holes are dug, the depth of which depends on the type of soil: the lighter it is, the deeper the hole. Low-growing flowers are planted to a depth of 8-12 cm with an interval between plants of 15-20 cm, and tall ones - 12-20 cm, with an interval of 25-30 cm. If there is a well-developed root system, add another 5 cm.

Primary and subsequent feeding

Regardless of what time of year you decide to plant lilies, you need to take care of their initial and subsequent feeding. So in the spring, additives such as ammonium nitrate, nitroammophoska, and wood ash are added to the soil (Figure 3).

Note: When fertilizing, you should pay close attention to the dosage, because an excess of minerals is just as detrimental to plants as their deficiency. Among the listed additives, wood ash occupies a special place. This substance can be applied up to 6 times per season; it not only creates a favorable environment for growth, but can also protect flowers from mold and pests.

In addition to the primary fertilizing, it is also necessary to re-feed the soil if the bulbs were planted in the spring. Thus, before the start of the budding period, it is recommended to add a solution of nitrophoska to the soil, and after the end of the flowering phase, a solution of superphosphate. The second feeding not only adds nutrients to the soil, but also helps the bulbs prepare for winter.

Figure 3. Feeding preparations

Simultaneously with feeding, it is recommended to carry out preventive measures, the purpose of which is to prevent various diseases. For example, in May it is recommended to saturate the soil with 1% Bordeaux mixture, and in mid-summer repeat this procedure several more times, spraying not only the soil, but the entire plant. If there are obvious signs of disease, fertilizing should be continued so that the bulbs receive additional nutrition and can resist disease.

Features of the watering mode

Even if you prepared and fed the soil correctly and in advance, but did not take care of its moisture from the moment of planting the bulbs, then all your efforts may be in vain: the flowers either will not bloom, or the color will be very poor. Therefore, immediately after planting, it is necessary to thoroughly moisten the soil, and then constantly monitor the level of soil moisture and carry out regular watering. At the same time, you should neither overdry the soil nor allow water to stagnate in it.

Features of cultivation after forcing

Plant bulbs are placed in the substrate to a depth of 6-8 cm - this will allow them to be grown without fear of harming the roots. The deep pot in which the lilies will be planted must be equipped with drainage holes. If you neglect this rule, water stagnation will form in the bulb, which will negatively affect the growth of flowers.

Maintaining temperature control is important. So, in the daytime, in a heated greenhouse or in a house, the air temperature should be +18 degrees, and at night +12 degrees. After the leaves of the plant fall 10-12 cm in height, the temperature at night should be maintained within +15 degrees.

At higher air temperatures, the formation of outwardly unattractive flowers is possible. To monitor its compliance with the norm, you can use a room thermometer.

During the growing period, the plant needs feeding. The average period when it needs to be done every 10-12 days, using 0.3% complex mineral fertilizer.

Planting lilies in spring with sprouts

When planting bulbs with sprouts, it is possible to get beautiful flowers in the summer. To do this, the sprouted bulbs need to be planted in the ground at the end of May, when the time of frost has passed. When planting, you should take into account the degree of development of the sprout: if it is still small, then the bulb is planted at the usual depth, that is, from 12 to 20 cm, depending on the size of the bulb itself (Figure 4).

If the sprout is sufficiently developed and has unfolded its leaves, then the bulb sinks into the soil shallowly: only up to the neck of the sprout, otherwise it will not be able to break through the soil layer and will rot. However, with such planting there is a risk of the bulb freezing in winter. Therefore, it is recommended to replant them in the fall to their usual depth.

The basic rules for planting lilies with sprouts are shown in the video.

Peculiarities

To learn how to properly plant lilies in open ground in the spring, you need to know some of the features of this process.

Spring planting of bulbs with shoots is complicated by the constant threat of frost. Therefore, the gardener must be prepared in advance for this situation. This is why it is practiced to plant sprouted lilies sideways. If you know that frost is approaching, take protective measures immediately. Plantings must be watered abundantly, possibly with the addition of epin. Wet plants and damp soil will absorb frost, and epin will help relieve stress from the plants.

Rules

It is recommended to plant lilies in prepared and well-warmed soil. For conditions in the Moscow region, this time begins in late April - early May.

Figure 4. Features of planting lilies with sprouts

As soon as the stems emerge from the ground, it is necessary to carry out the first feeding. The exception is chernozem, which has sufficient fertility.

Lily flower - description

Lilies are herbaceous perennials with ovoid or round bulbs without protective coverings with a diameter of 2 to 20 cm. Lily bulbs consist of open, more or less tightly adjacent individual fleshy scales. The stems of lilies are from 30 to 125 cm high and from 3 to 30 mm thick - straight, green or dark purple, sometimes with brown streaks, simple or slightly branched in the upper part - are a continuation of the bottom of the bulb. In some species, bulblets are formed in the axils of the leaves - aerial bulbs, which are also used for reproduction. Lily leaves are linear, lanceolate or oblong-elliptic, alternate or whorled, petiolate or sessile, from 2 to 20 cm long. Single or collected in quantities from 2 to 40 in umbrella-shaped or pyramidal inflorescences, lily flowers are funnel-shaped, bell-shaped, goblet-shaped or turban-shaped perianth, consisting of 6 lobes, colored white, pink, red, orange, yellow, lilac and often covered on the inside with stripes, dots, specks or specks. The fruit of the lily is a three-lobed capsule with flat, irregular triangular brown seeds covered with a filmy or papery skin.

Up to 30 species and many hybrids and varieties of lilies are grown in culture. Lilies are used in gardening and landscape design, in the perfume industry, and some of its species are used as medicinal and food plants.

Caring for lilies in the spring at the dacha

Planting and caring for lilies in the open ground largely depends on the season and includes a whole range of measures that will help maintain the viability of the plants.

Spring care consists of the following procedures:

1. Cleaning the shelter under which the plants were kept in winter.
2. Gently loosening the soil.
3. Water and apply organic or nitrogen-containing fertilizers after germination.
4. With the beginning of budding, add potassium-phosphorus fertilizer to the soil in the form of wood ash, superphosphate, and potassium nitrate.
5. Weeding, removing faded buds.
6. Regular, even watering. At the same time, it is important to protect the leaves from droplets of moisture getting on them so as not to provoke a burn.

It is also necessary to mulch the soil around the roots with organic materials (leaves, straw, sawdust, grass clippings).

Difficulties in growing lilies

New gardeners may encounter some problems when growing lilies.

• For example, if lilies do not winter well, then most likely you have oriental lilies. These flowers prefer rainy summers and springs, as well as dry winters and autumns. To solve this problem, you should simply shelter the plant from the autumn rains.
• Lilies bloom for a short time and wither. The cause of this disease in the flower is waterlogging of the soil. It is important not to allow moisture to stagnate in the roots. The solution is to reduce the frequency of watering. Overwatering can cause the bulbs to rot, which in turn can lead to the death of the plant.
• Also, such symptoms can occur in plants when the soil at the roots overheats. To prevent this from happening, you can plant other plants around the flower or hide the roots behind reflective materials. For example, sawdust, straw, grass clippings or something similar.

Pests can pose a danger to flowers. For example, the lily beetle. Both larvae and beetles heavily eat the leaves and buds of the flower. You can get rid of it simply by removing the beetle from the flower. But if there are too many of them, it is better to treat the flowers. True, after treatment with insecticides, the plant can temporarily lose its attractiveness. But the lilies will remain healthy. In the same way, they fight other pests: lily flies, aphids and the like.

Video “Pests of lilies and ways to combat them”

Caring for lilies in autumn

Planting and caring for garden lilies in the fall is also carried out in accordance with certain rules. All these activities are aimed at preparing plants and soil for winter.

Autumn care includes (Figure 5):

• For better ripening of the bulbs by autumn, it is necessary to add superphosphate and potassium sulfate to the soil immediately after flowering.
• During prolonged autumn rains, the bushes should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture to protect the plants from possible diseases.
• For successful wintering, add humus or rotted compost to the garden bed in a 10 cm layer.
• It is not recommended to trim the stems after flowering, since the plants will not have time to prepare for winter in this case. As a result, next year the color will be weak or there will be no color at all. But naturally dried plants should be cut at a height of 15 cm from the top layer of soil.
• It is in the fall that bulbs are dug up for replanting, propagation or storage. It all depends on the specific type of flower. For example, Asian hybrids need autumn replanting every year, and Oriental hybrids - once every three years.
• After digging, the bulbs are immediately planted or sent for storage.
• It is recommended to cover the bed for the winter with a layer of peat (sawdust) before the onset of frost. When frost touches the ground, it is necessary to additionally cover the bushes with fallen leaves or cover them with spruce branches.
• Late-flowering varieties also need protection from autumn light frosts; plants can be protected from them using cardboard boxes or film.

Figure 5. Features of autumn care for lilies
By following all the recommendations for autumn care, you will be able to preserve your flowers, which will delight your eyes next year.

Methods for propagating flowers using bulbs

Lilies grow in one place for 3–4 years. Next, it is recommended to replant them, since when the plantings thicken, flowering becomes very sparse. Transplantation is combined with reproduction. The optimal time for the procedure is 6–7 weeks after the end of flowering.

In most cases, the daughter bulbs are separated from the mother bulb without effort, but sometimes you have to break them

Daughter bulbs of lilies are formed either on the sides of the main one, or just above it, on the stem. The plants are removed from the soil by carefully loosening the soil around it with a pitchfork, and the entire above-ground part is cut off. The roots and bulbs are washed and carefully examined. It is necessary to cut off all blackened and rotten areas to healthy tissue. At the same time, the daughter bulbs are separated.

The formation of daughter bulbs on the stem is a varietal feature of some lilies

To prevent diseases, high-quality specimens are soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate and fungicide in the same way as when planted for the first time. Then the bulbs are dried, the roots are cut by about a third, all sections are sprinkled with crushed chalk, ash or smeared with brilliant green. The procedure for planting them is no different from that described above.

Some varieties of lilies form bulbs - small bulbs in the axils of the leaves. By the end of summer they form roots and fall off. They are planted in a bed to a depth of 3–4 cm, covered with a layer of humus 10–12 cm thick for the winter, and transferred to a permanent place after a year. These lilies are expected to bloom in 2–3 years.

There is no need to pick off the stem bulbs of lilies - those that are ready for planting fall to the ground themselves

Video: lily propagation procedure

Lilies in pots: care

In addition to lilies suitable for growing in the country, there are also Oriental and Asian varieties that can be successfully grown in ordinary flower pots. At the same time, you can easily regulate the flowering period, receiving flowers as needed. You just need to choose the right time for planting and provide the plants with proper care.

After the first shoots appear, the first organic fertilizing is carried out. The second feeding is carried out a week later with the application of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Simultaneously with the first feeding, it is recommended to spray the sprouts with a solution containing growth stimulants. Such spraying is carried out twice a week. As a result, you will get beautiful large buds.

When the first stems grow to a height of 10 cm, you need to add soil to the pot up to its top edge. Further care consists of regular loosening of the soil to a depth of 5 cm and daily watering. In addition, flowering plants should be fertilized with mineral and organic fertilizers once a week. A lily should be accustomed to the open air gradually: the first time the plant in a pot is taken outside for half an hour, the second time for an hour, the third time for two, until the residence time reaches 10 hours. Hardening can be carried out only when the plant reaches one month of age.

Note: It is important to know that leaving a flower outdoors at temperatures below 10 degrees is not recommended, since low temperatures inhibit the process of flower bud formation.

Until the flowers appear, the leaves are also sprayed daily. If the flowers are outdoors, it is necessary to ensure that at the time of spraying and after it, direct sunlight does not fall on the leaves. And after the buds bloom, you should protect not only the foliage, but also the flower petals. Remember that moisture on the petals shortens the flowering period. If your lily blooms very profusely and its buds are heavy, install supports to support the stem.

Varieties of lilies: which ones to plant

I planted lily bulbs.
In the first year they bloomed well, in the second year they bloomed much worse, and in the third they disappeared completely. I dug up the soil and found only small bulbs. Where did the bulbs I planted go? Most likely, you planted oriental or American hybrids, which in our country practically do not have time to restore the bulb after flowering, and it gradually weakens and even dies completely. These types of lilies bloom late, and rainy, cold weather begins to destroy the leaves. Without them, the bulb cannot recover after flowering, during which the entire supply of nutrients accumulated in it is consumed, and there is not enough heat. Thus, before winter the bulb leaves weakened. Gradually she weakens so much that she dies completely.

Another possible reason is the bulbs getting wet if the area where they are planted is flooded with meltwater in the spring and rain in the summer. In addition, the bottoms of the bulbs could rot. This often occurs in acidic soils with excess soil moisture or when the bottom of the bulbs is damaged by wireworms.

Sometimes the bulb rots due to poor-quality planting material or due to damage by snails and other soil pests. Before planting any bulbous crops, it is recommended to treat the planting material against rot in the preparation “Maxim”.

What varieties of lilies can be planted in the North-West?

In the North-West, Oriental, American, and Japanese hybrids do not work well. Only Asian and LA hybrids, obtained by crossing Asiatic and trumpet lilies, bloom well and overwinter without shelter. Tubular lilies overwinter only under the cover of spruce branches.

To successfully overwinter oriental hybrids, they should be covered with a layer of dry foliage of at least 20 cm and the plantings should be covered with film on top to prevent moisture from penetrating under the cover. You can use high-moor peat as a cover, also in a 20 cm layer, but without a film on top of the peat. You can cover the plants with soil and cover them with spruce branches. In early spring, all this must be removed, otherwise the lilies will begin to grow too early and be subject to spring frosts.

Oriental hybrids and other species crossed with them are usually transplanted into a glass greenhouse in late summer.

Martagon grows and blooms in the North-West. Everywhere, Daurian lilies grow beautifully, bloom and winter without shelter. In warmer climates, especially those with long, warm and dry autumns, both trumpet and white royal lilies, oriental hybrids and other types of lilies grow well.

American and Japanese hybrids can only be grown in a subtropical or similar climate zone.

How to properly cut and preserve lilies?

Generally speaking, lilies are cut flowers. But you can cut only those plants that have 5–7 buds (they have a large bulb). Lilies are cut when the first bud has just begun to open.

If the lily has only 1-2 buds, you cannot cut it yet, since its bulb is too small. When cutting, you deprive the plant of the leaves necessary to restore and grow a large bulb.

Never cut off the entire stem. Leave at least a quarter of the stem with leaves to restore the bulb.

If transportation is to be done, it is better to do the cutting early in the morning. Burn the ends of the stems in a candle flame or dip them in melted paraffin. Then wrap the lilies in paper and pack them in a plastic bag (tying it) or in a cardboard box (sealing it with tape). The flowers will endure quite a long journey just fine.

Before putting them in water, the ends of the stems need to be trimmed. To give nutrition to cut plants, you can add 1 teaspoon of granulated sugar to 1 liter of water. And to protect them from putrefactive bacteria, add a grain of citric acid or manganese.

Garden lilies: planting and care

Some people like lilies in flower pots, while others cannot imagine their garden without these wonderful flowers. Garden varieties are so loved by many because they feel equally good in both shaded and sunny areas. Their only requirement is well-drained soil (Figure 6).

Note: In the summer, caring for garden lilies consists of regularly loosening the soil, weeding, controlling diseases and pests, watering and fertilizing. The autumn season is aimed at preparing flowers for winter: cutting off dried leaves, digging, replanting and storing bulbs, organizing shelters for plants - these are the works that are carried out in the garden on the eve of winter.

Although lilies are quite tolerant of shaded areas, you should not plant them in deep shade under trees or buildings. In the fall, plant them between low bushes, which will serve as protection for the flowers in the winter cold. In summer, it is recommended to plant ground cover plants under the lilies to protect the bulbs from overheating.

When planting garden varieties, preliminary soil preparation is required. Any soil is suitable except sandy or clay. The first is not very fertile, and the second is prone to stagnation of water. Therefore, if the soil on your site is heavy, add additional sand, as well as peat and humus, about a month before planting begins. Immediately before planting, the soil is dug up and potassium, nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers are applied. The dug up and fertilized soil is watered and left until planting.

Figure 6. Stages of caring for garden lilies

The timing and depth of planting bulbs are determined by the varieties and characteristics of the soil. It is important to know that garden species are planted in the fall so that the bulbs have time to take root well. The planted bed must be watered and mulched with peat or humus to protect the top layer of soil from drying out. It is advisable to cover them for the winter using special devices or natural material, such as spruce paws or fallen leaves.

Caring for garden lilies consists of loosening the soil, weed control, watering, and fertilizing. Fertilization of the soil is carried out three times: during the period of emergence of shoots - with the help of urea and complex fertilizer, in the budding phase - with the addition of potassium sulfate and superphosphate, during flowering - with a solution of liquid mullein and nitrophoska. Do not forget that watering can only be done by the roots, so that waterlogging of the leaves does not lead to burns or gray rot. During periods of heavy rain, it happens that the bulbs begin to protrude from under the soil layer. In this case, the lilies must be sprinkled with fallen pine needles. If the purpose of cultivation is to obtain planting material, it is necessary to cut off the buds so that the plant does not waste its energy on flowering, but directs it into the bulbs. In this case, it is necessary to leave at least a third of the stem. It is recommended to replant garden lilies once every five years. This way they get sick less often and bloom better.

Buying and storing bulbs

Before purchasing planting material, you must find out what type it belongs to. Each of them has its own conditions of care. It is worth paying attention to the appearance of the bulbs. They should be strong to the touch, without damage or rot.

Peel the soil from the bulbs brought from the store or collected yourself, and dry them. Prepare a cardboard box or wooden box. Pour a layer of peat, place the bulbs on it, and pour peat on top again. Place the storage container in the basement or loggia. Periodically check the condition of the bulbs. If the roots dry out, moisten the peat a little. If the bulbs become moldy, wipe them with a solution of potassium permanganate.

You can also store the bulbs in a plastic bag with peat. You need to inflate it, tie it, and store it in a dark place. In 2-3 months the babies will appear. Transplant the bulbs into peat containers along with the children, leaving the tip of the scale on the surface. Take it to the basement.

Storage conditions:

• the room must be dry;
• temperature +5-10 degrees;
• good ventilation.

Pineapple lily: planting and care

Pineapple lily, also known as eucomis, belongs to the ornamental plants. The main advantage of this plant is that it is practically not susceptible to diseases, and eucomis blooms for a long time (Figure 7).

It is planted in the ground in the spring in the same way as gladiolus bulbs. This should be done after the soil has warmed up. For the central regions of Russia, this is approximately mid-May; for the Moscow region, it is the end of spring. Immediately before planting, eucomis bulbs are kept in an infusion of a root growth stimulator for two hours.

Figure 7. External features of pineapple lilies

Planting material is completely immersed in fertile soil and watered moderately. After germination, fertilize and continue to water, but more abundantly. To ensure that you get flowers after spring planting, it is recommended to select only large specimens that are dug up in the fall after the leaves have completely yellowed. Wintering of the bulbs occurs in a cool room at a temperature of +10+15 degrees in a box with sand after preliminary drying.

Features of care

This flower does not require care. It needs to be watered on time and weeds removed. During intensive growth, lilies need a lot of moisture. However, you should try not to flood the plant, as it does not like excessive dampness. On hot summer days, watering is carried out in the morning and evening hours, and it is recommended to mulch the soil so that it does not dry out very quickly.

The first feeding is carried out in the spring after the shoots appear. When flowering begins, lilies are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. The fertilizers needed for fertilizing can be purchased at a specialized store.

Often, hybrid oriental lilies tolerate winter very poorly. It is recommended to cover such a flower in rainy weather, this will prevent the soil from getting too wet and the development of rot on the bulbs. Lilies need to be ventilated only when the sun is shining.

Lack of flowering may be a consequence of deep planting. The rapid wilting of flowers is associated with overheating of the soil. In this case, its surface must be mulched.

Only one pest can appear on a plant - the lily beetle. It is recommended to collect it manually. The fact is that chemical treatment can significantly spoil the appearance of foliage.

When the lily fades, you need to wait a while and only then collect the seeds. Watering is carried out until late autumn or before transplantation.

Bulbs must be stored correctly. So, the bulbs should be cleaned from the soil and dried.

Lily Marlene: planting and care

Lily Marlene is capable of simultaneously producing up to hundreds of pink buds on one stem. Another interesting feature of this variety is the complete absence of the pungent odor inherent in all lilies (Figure 8).

Like other lilies, this species is quite unpretentious in terms of growing conditions and care. In open ground conditions it reproduces by both bulbs and bulbs. Larger bulbs are better suited for home growing. Autumn and winter plantings will produce flowers in early spring, spring plantings in summer, and from bulbs planted in early autumn you can get a beautiful flower in mid-winter.

Figure 8. Marlene lilies in the garden

So, to grow lilies at home you will need a flower pot, the diameter and depth of which correspond to the height of the plant. For example, if the lily is about a meter high, a container with a diameter of 35 cm and a depth of 30 cm is suitable. The bulbs are planted at intervals of 4 cm from each other, while maintaining a distance of 3 cm to the edge of the pot. If you want your indoor lily to bloom for a long time, plant 3-4 bulbs in one pot. Pre-planting material must be subjected to a stratification procedure, that is, a sharp change in temperature. For this purpose, the bulbs selected for planting are kept in the refrigerator at a temperature of +5 degrees for 15-20 days. Then they are soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate for 1-2 hours, then kept for 12 hours in a solution of a growth stimulator with the addition of a nutrient medium. Only after this the bulbs should be planted in the soil.

The soil also needs to be prepared accordingly:

• To do this, drainage in the form of river pebbles or expanded clay is placed at the bottom of the pot, and a layer of fertile soil 10 cm thick is placed on top of the drainage.
• The bulbs are laid out on top of the substrate with their sprouts facing up and sprinkled with a small layer of soil.
• The planted bulbs must be watered with warm water and placed again in the refrigerator (cool room) for a month so that the plant can take root.
• With the appearance of sprouts, the pot with the plant is transferred to a bright room with a temperature of +12+15 degrees.
• Starting from 1 month, it is advisable to harden the plant by taking it out into the fresh air, gradually increasing the period of stay outside from 30 minutes to 10 hours a day.

Lilies are light-loving plants, so it is better to keep pots with them on western or eastern windows, while avoiding direct sunlight on the leaves. If there is a lack of natural light, fluorescent lamps are used to extend daylight hours. Watering of young plants is carried out at intervals of three days; as they grow and flower, watering becomes more abundant and more frequent. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that there is no stagnation of water. On particularly hot days, when the air is dry, it is recommended to spray the plants. Remember that regular watering involves loosening to ensure air flow to the roots.

Note: As for fertilizing, the first is carried out immediately after germination of the seedlings using organic fertilizers, the second - during the period of foliage growth by applying nitrogen-containing fertilizers, and the third - with the appearance of buds, when the plant needs phosphorus-potassium fertilizing. If you want to increase the number of buds, treat the plant twice a week with growth stimulants.

Marlene lilies bloom 80 days after sprouting. This process can be accelerated by increasing the temperature in the room, organizing additional lighting and increasing watering, and slowing it down by moving the plant to a cold place. In the third year after planting, the Marlene variety produces the most beautiful and strong inflorescences, and after 5-6 years of growth, the plant needs to be renewed.

As the buds fade, they must be removed so as not to deplete the bulb. After the plant has completely bloomed and the stems have turned yellow and dried, they begin the process of preparing for winter. To do this, watering is reduced to once a week, adding mineral fertilizers at the same time. Two weeks after the last leaf has dried, the bulbs are dug up, kept in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour, dried, placed in sawdust and stored in a dark, cool place. It is extremely rare for the Marlene variety to produce babies. In this case, it is better to immediately plant them in a separate pot.

Choosing a growing site

The location on the site should be chosen taking into account the characteristics of the selected variety. So, for example, Asian species develop better under the influence of the sun's rays. However, they also feel comfortable in partial shade. They are frost-resistant, do not require special care and grow actively.

Japanese lilies, magnificent, reddish and calloused lilies, bloom profusely in partial shade. For these varieties, it is preferable that the top of the stem is in the sun, but the bottom is in the shade.

Such varieties are quite capricious and do not tolerate the slightest frost. They should be placed on the site with ornamental grasses or small plants as a border.

The most common variety is tubular. This is what decorates dachas in the Moscow region and other regions. It is easy to care for and adapts perfectly to any conditions.

Regardless of the variety, the following requirements must be met on the site:

• The soil must be nutritious.
• Placing bulbs is unacceptable in the shade of trees.
• Preference is given to drained areas where moisture does not stagnate.
• It is recommended to fence off the plant from drafts. It can be of either natural or artificial origin, it all depends on the wishes of the owner of the garden plot.

The plant needs moderate watering

Amazon lily: care at home

Among flowering indoor plants, the Amazon lily (eucharis) is particularly beautiful. Caring for a flower is not particularly difficult, because this plant can successfully grow and bloom in any room (Figure 9). The main condition for it is good lighting, so try to place the pot with eucharis closer to the window. Make sure that in summer the leaves of the flower are not exposed to direct sunlight. The optimal temperature for growth in summer in indoor conditions is considered to be +18 +22 degrees, and in winter – from +15 to +17 degrees.

Note: It is also important to properly organize watering of the plant, because stagnation of water can be detrimental to the Amazon lily. Therefore, it will be enough to water eucharis when the soil under it is completely dry, and after flowering, watering stops completely, and the plant prepares for a dormant period. This stage is very important for the development of the plant, because it needs to gain strength for subsequent growth. Therefore, you need to remove the dried flower stalks, leaving the leaves intact.

Figure 9. Planting characteristics of Amazon lilies
Eucharis remains dormant for approximately one month from April to October. With the appearance of new shoots, watering must be resumed. Fertilizing is carried out only during the period of active growth, preferably in summer. In this case, the fertilizer applied to the soil should not contain too much nitrogen.

An interesting feature of this plant is the fact that eucharis fully develops and blooms only in a cramped pot. Therefore, the plant can be replanted no more often than once every three years.

When to replant lilies

The optimal time to transplant lilies from one place to another is autumn. Specific dates depend on the region where they grow. For example, in central Russia it is worth doing this in late August - early September, and in the southern regions - from late mid-September to mid-October.

Important! Regardless of what time the transplant is planned for, it should be carried out only after the end of the flowering period.

Lilies in a flowerbed during flowering season

Why is a transplant needed and what will happen if you don’t do it?

During the first two to three years of growth, lilies growing in open ground bloom luxuriantly and develop actively. However, after this period, the flowers begin to become smaller, the decorative effect is lost, and the young shoots develop more slowly. All this can be avoided with a transplant. Transplanting lilies is necessary to avoid:

• Stopping flower growth;
• Limp, yellowing leaves;
• Excessive growth of plants;
• Fungal and bacterial diseases.

There are hybrid varieties that can not be replanted for 10 years, but they are not very popular among gardeners. Most varieties need to be replanted annually.

Dependence of transplant time on lily variety

The time when lilies can be planted in the fall depends both on the region where the flowers grow and on the variety of lilies. To do this, you need to have an idea of ​​the characteristics of the development cycles of the acquired variety. For example, the Candidum variety goes into a dormant state at the end of summer. At this time, it is worth thinking about replanting other bulbous plants. The first half of September is suitable for transplanting varieties of the early flowering period. Tubular or oriental varieties can be replanted in the first half of October or in the spring months.

Important! If the average daily temperature drops to 0°C, then it will no longer be possible to plant lilies, since the bulbs may become hypothermic, the development of the root system will slow down, and immunity to fungal and infectious diseases will decrease.

It is quite acceptable to replant Asian and early varieties in the spring, even in the initial period of budding. Immediately after this, they need to be lightly shaded and thoroughly watered.

Indoor lily: care at home with photos

Lovers of indoor flowers willingly grow home lilies of different varieties (Figure 10). Among them, Asian hybrids are called the most unpretentious. They grow equally well in the sun and in the shade, require moderate watering, are resistant to disease, and the flowers come in a variety of colors. The only drawback is the lack of smell.

Figure 10. Types of indoor lilies

Curly and snow-white hybrids are also grown at home. The former prefer shade and moist soil, the latter are rather capricious and demanding of care. House lilies bloom briefly and infrequently, but it is possible to increase the flowering period by changing the dormant period of the plant. After flowering, it must be placed in a cool, dry place or replanted in new soil with the addition of ash. During active growth, you can feed the plant and increase watering to achieve longer flowering.

When caring for a house lily, the following points can be highlighted::

• Regular moderate watering of the plant from the moment the sprouts appear until the leaves dry.
• Spraying the plant in dry air conditions.
• Loosening the soil while simultaneously adding peat, wood ash, humus or leaf soil.
• Removing weeds.
• Installation of supports for flower stalks.
• Liquid fertilizing after the appearance of sprouts, at the stage of bud formation and after flowering.
• Wet cleaning of leaves.
• Store bulbs in a cool place.

It is recommended to remove formed buds in the first year of growth so that the plant gains strength. Subsequently, buds are removed only from weakened plants.

Protection from pests and diseases

The most common lily disease is bacterial rot .

Cold and wet soil provokes the development of fungus. Spots similar to yellow stains appear on the leaves, and the peduncles are gradually affected. Regulating watering and eliminating nitrogen from fertilizing will help protect the plant from this disease.

If bright orange spots appear on the flower, it means that another disease has appeared - rust .

Rust persists on the bulbs, so they need to be carefully inspected before planting and treated with fungicides. When a disease appears on the leaves, it is treated with Bordeaux mixture.

Botrytis (or gray mold) is a real flower destroyer.

With high humidity and sudden temperature changes, it appears in the form of dark brown spots.

Treatment with copper-containing preparations will help protect the lily.

Yellowing of the tops of the sprouts indicates root rotting .

This disease requires radical measures - the plant will have to be dug up, since rot forms on the roots of the bulb, and it will not be possible to get to it without this.

The dug up bulb is cleaned of lesions and treated with a fungicide. If the roots are severely damaged, it will not be possible to save the bulb.

Not only diseases can cause poor development of a lily. This flower is also loved by numerous pests: thrips, squeak beetles, aphids, spider mites, beetles, click beetles .

Insecticides, for example "Inta-vir", will help to cope with most of them. Also effective in pest control are the drugs “Mukhoed”, “Pochin”, “Medvetoks”, “Grizzly”.

ATTENTION: The squeak beetle and lily beetle cannot be destroyed with poison, since the poison is not able to penetrate their protective shell. These pests must be removed manually.

Transfer rules

Soil depletion under lily bushes is observed 5-6 years after planting. Further feeding without replanting does not make sense. The optimal time is the final flowering, when the plant no longer requires strength to maintain buds. Plants with the greenery removed, cut to a stump of 5-10 cm, are dug up with a pitchfork, freed from the ground and slightly dried. Excessively long roots are shortened, and the rest are rinsed in a 1% manganese solution, after which the plant is carefully placed in pre-moistened soil in a new location.

How to plant correctly? Instructions

1. Before planting, dig the soil 25-30 cm deep. Add a bucket of sand and peat per 1 m² to heavy soil, and only peat to light soil. Or prepare a soil mixture for lilies: turf soil, peat and humus - 1:1:1. For flowers that prefer slightly acidic soil (Asian (tiger), Oriental, LA hybrids, OT hybrids), you can make the following substrate: turf soil, peat, sand and pine litter - 1:1:1:1.
2. Depending on the fertility of the soil, add 1-2 buckets of compost or humus per 1 m². This is enough for lilies growing in slightly acidic soil. And for Tubular hybrids, snow-white lilies and Martagon, you need to add 200-500 g per 1 m² of wood ash or dolomite flour to reduce the acidity of the soil.
3. Mix all the ingredients well with garden soil and dig a planting hole or furrow of the required depth. Usually twice as deep as the recommended planting depth for bulbs (+10-15 cm to it) or in most cases - 20-30 cm.
4. Test the bulb in the hole at the recommended depth. Place a layer of soil mixture and then sand at the bottom of the hole. You can pour a mound of sand and place an onion with straightened roots in it, or simply pour a 2-3 cm layer.

   
   Planting pit with sand mound

5. Place the bulbs at the required distance, straighten their roots and fill the voids on the sides with soil substrate. Water the planting grooves (holes) with a small amount of water.
6. Fill the planting hole or furrow completely with the soil mixture and water it generously for better rooting. After the soil subsides, sprinkle it on top and water it again.
7. Asian, Oriental and LA Hybrids must be mulched with a 3-5 cm layer of peat or pine sawdust, litter or small shavings (increase the acidity of the soil). As mulch for Tubular hybrids, white lily and Martagon, use leaf humus with wood ash (3:1).
8. When planting in the fall, it is recommended to place a film on top of the mulch, and spruce branches and leaves under it. Such shelter for the winter must be done before the first autumn rains and is mandatory for Eastern hybrids, since in their natural habitat it is dry in autumn and winter. Asian hybrids, LA hybrids and OT hybrids do not need to be covered with film.
9. In spring, remove the film, spruce branches and leaves from the planting site as early as possible, immediately after the final melting of the snow (Moscow region: late March - early April), so as not to damage the sprouts. There is no need to rake the mulch; it is useful for retaining moisture.

Covering with film for the winter

Only dry soil can be covered with film. If it rains already in September, then lay the film and place leaves and spruce branches under it only after the top layer of the earth has frozen (also one of the ways to protect the bulbs from mice).

In a sheltered planting site, the ground does not freeze much longer, and the roots of the plant continue to develop until severe frosts occur. Since their root system is capable of growing even at slightly above-zero temperatures.

How to plant an onion with a sprout?

It is better to plant an onion with a too large and curved sprout (longer than 5 cm) at an angle, i.e. carefully place it on its side so that it looks up and does not break off. If the sprout is straight, then plant it as usual, just cover it carefully with soil.

Sprouted lily bulbs are most often sold in the spring, but sometimes in the fall (those that were not sold in the spring), usually brought from Europe.

When planting in the fall, the sprout on the bulb must be carefully unscrewed, since it does not need to grow in winter, and next spring a new one will form in its place.

Lily bulb with sprout

Planting in a container

Lilies can be grown not only in a flowerbed, but also in a container (large pot, pan, flowerpot, bucket, etc.). It is better to plant varieties up to 60-70 cm in height. This method of growing has its advantages.

• For the winter, you don’t have to dig up the bulbs, but simply put the container in a cool place with a temperature of 2-4 °C (freeze-free basement or cellar). And winter-hardy varieties can be placed in a trench and covered with leaves or sawdust for the winter, and then covered with snow.
• It’s easier to find a good place for growing - the container can be moved to the sun in the spring or in hot weather (July, August) placed in partial shade. It can also be placed in places unsuitable for planting: on asphalt and paths, patios and gazebos, verandas.
• If the soil on the site is not suitable for flowers, and preparing it is too difficult, then you can make the necessary soil mixture in a small volume specifically for a particular species.
• In order for lilies to bloom earlier in spring or winter, containers can be brought into a warm room in the fall after the end of the growing season (before the first frost). Provided there is sufficient lighting, Asian hybrids bloom in 60-70 days, Tubular - 100-130, and Oriental - 120-140.

Planting lilies in a container (bucket) instead of a flower bed

Adviсe

• At the bottom of the hole, sand drainage is mandatory for Eastern hybrids, and recommended for representatives of other sections. If the soil is heavy, then sand can be poured around the bulb, as well as a 1-2 cm layer on top, so that the scales do not rot.
• If the soil is too dry, then 1-2 days before planting it is advisable to water it to the required depth so that it is slightly moist.
• After preparing the soil mixture, you can spill it with a strong solution of potassium permanganate to prevent diseases and rot, and only then apply and mix fertilizers. This treatment is especially recommended when planting Oriental hybrids.
• It is useful to add pine litter to the root zone (5-10 cm layer) or to the soil mixture. In order for a sufficient amount of nitrogen to remain in the soil (it absorbs it), nitrogen fertilizer (urea) must be added. Over 3-5 years, the litter in the ground rots, earthworms turn it into humus and neutralize acidity. In addition to litter, you can use pine sawdust; if there are a lot of earthworms in the soil, then there will be no negative effect from them. It is better to use needles for Asian, Oriental, LA hybrids and OT hybrids. This recommendation is from Stefan Fedorovich Nedyalkov from Belarus, a gardener with 30 years of experience.
• It is not recommended to add manure to the soil mixture, as it often causes the development of various fungal diseases in flowers.
• It is good to plant lilies in three-year-old compost soil, and then mulch it on top. Advice from Peter Samsonovich Kiselev from Istra, Moscow region.
• If the land is sufficiently fertile, then you don’t need to add mineral fertilizers in addition to compost, and if not, then you can add 50 g of potassium sulfate and 100 g of superphosphate per 1 m².
• If you are planting tall varieties (120-150 cm) and assume that the flower will need support during heavy flowering, especially in strong winds or rain, then it is better to install it immediately. If you place a stake next to an adult plant, you can snag and damage the bulb.
• Instead of a stake for support, in any case, place a mark (stick, peg) where the bulb is planted in the fall to know its exact location in the spring.

ADDITIONS TO THE ARTICLE:

1. LILY DISEASES: WHICH CAN KILL AND HOW TO TREAT?
2. THE MOST DANGEROUS PESTS OF LILES!
3. WHEN AND HOW TO CORRECTLY TRANSPLANT LILIES?
4. POPULAR FLOWERS SIMILAR TO LILY FROM PHOTO!

We wish you a successful and easy landing!