✅ About phlox: how to plant correctly in open ground in summer, autumn, spring

How to properly plant phlox in open ground

There are many colors and varieties of phlox, differing in height, size of inflorescences, requirements for care and cultivation.
The most widely known varieties are paniculata, canadian, and subulate. Many gardeners are concerned about the question of when and how to plant phlox in open ground in order to enjoy their aroma and beautiful flowering all summer long. In the article we will tell you how to choose a planting option and a place for a flower bed, and we will look at the whole process step by step.

Popular types

Paniculate

This is one of the most popular and frequently used types of phlox; this variety is a perennial plant that delights gardeners with its fragrance. Their peculiarity is a very powerful and long root system, thanks to which they can grow more than 150 cm in length.

The paniculate appearance of phlox attracts with its incredibly beautiful inflorescences, which glow with bright colors in your flower beds. In addition, their flowers are fragrant with a pleasant honey aroma.

paniculate phlox

Subulate

The main distinguishing feature of this species is its miniature size; the neatly folded branches of this plant give the impression that the flowers are in a small basket.

Subulate phloxes are bush-like plants with sharp and hard leaves. Very small but incredibly cute buds grow on the branches. Phloxes of this species delight gardeners twice a year, from May to June and from August to September.

Subulate Phlox

Drummond

Plants of this type have numerous advantages, for example, they do not fade in the sun and have amazing frost resistance and drought resistance. They amaze not only with their resistance to stress, but also with their beauty.

Drummonda is a small bush; it will fit perfectly into any landscape design, since you can choose absolutely any color.

This plant will free you from any worries, since it is completely easy to care for and can independently spread throughout your site or garden.

Phlox annual drummonda

Preparing for landing

Before planting phlox with roots or seedlings in the spring, you need to choose a suitable place in the flower garden or garden and decide on the composition of the soil. It is important to comply with planting deadlines and select planting material. Although flowers are considered unpretentious, they need to be cared for both during planting and during the growing period.

Landing dates

Knowing when to plant phlox in open ground, you can prepare the beds in advance, purchase seeds, or dig up and divide the rhizomes. The procedure can be performed in early spring, summer or autumn.

Autumn transplant. Conducted in late August-early September, when the plant has faded and formed renewal buds. The latest date for planting roots in a new place is mid-October. Cut off the shoots of the bushes by two-thirds, leaving the leaves, and dig in the rhizomes, mulch with peat, humus, making mounds up to 10 cm high.
Summer landing. Carry out as needed in rainy or gloomy weather when the heat subsides. The bushes are buried and watered in the morning and evening. It is advisable to carry out such work in June.
Spring planting, replanting. It begins after the snow melts, in late April - early May, when the soil dries out. The optimal time is when the plant produces sprouts 6-10 cm long and the average air temperature is above zero.

Good to know. It is better to store purchased phlox in the refrigerator or basement before planting in the ground, and after spring planting, cover it in case of frost.

Selecting a location

Before planting phlox in a permanent place, you need to choose a suitable area for them in the garden. It should be slightly moistened, raised, protected from wind and drafts. Perennials do not like drying out and do not grow well in poor and swampy soil or in the shade. The place should be sunny, with light shade during the daytime.

It is good if the flower garden is located on a slight slope, next to low-growing trees and shrubs, but not under them. It is not advisable to plant bushes near lilac, willow, birch or spruce, as well as in an open place that is heavily blown with snow in winter. The best option is the southeast, east or southwest side of the house, where the flowers will be protected from cold winds.

Soil requirements

Inexperienced gardeners believe that unpretentious perennials will grow in any soil. This is not so - phlox loves fertile loam, moist and loose soil, and organic fertilizing throughout the entire growing period. Their powerful root system grows to a depth of 25-35 cm, so the fertile layer needs to be poured no less than onto the bayonet of a shovel.

When planting in open ground, it is necessary to fertilize the soil with horse or cow manure, humus, peat, and add ash to the hole. Optimal soil composition:

leaf turf;
humus or peat;
coarse river sand;
lowland peat or compost;
lime.

It is important to know. Flowers respond well to the application of organic matter and mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers in early May, loosening the soil, and subsequent mulching with mown grass and sawdust.

Selection of planting material

Phlox planting material can be sold in packaging bags (paper or transparent) containers with soil or in the form of rhizomes divided into parts. Planting seeds for seedlings is less common; more often this concerns annual varieties.

When purchased, a standard planting division should have from 4 to 6 strong shoots with well-formed buds and several small leaves on thick stems. The roots in the bag should be cut to 15 cm, and the stems at the base should be greenish in color. For each specimen on the packaging, the manufacturer must indicate the name of the variety and attach a picture, if possible.
Bushes sold in containers can be planted in the ground or buried in a mixture of peat and sawdust. Healthy greenish or dark purple sprouts (depending on the variety) or formed stems with leaves should be visible. The soil is usually moist.
The part of the rhizome purchased at a gardening center or dug up during transplantation should be in a coma of earth. On the surface in April-May, sprouts of stems, often with young leaves, are already visible. When planting, the roots should be slightly trimmed and inspected for the absence of rot and pests.

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03/27/2012 I was amused by how one florist said that he did not understand what could be discussed at a lecture about phlox agricultural technology. “Everything is so simple and clear!” I once thought exactly the same. But, having acquired many years of growing experience, I can talk endlessly about the features of phlox agricultural technology. And I am well aware that over time I will learn even more about this wonderful plant.

Very often you can hear that paniculate phlox is easy to care for and does not require any special growing conditions and is one of the most unpretentious garden crops. Phlox is one of the first to be included in the list of plants of the so-called “weekend flower garden” - i.e. low-maintenance To a large extent this opinion is true. Phloxes are distinguished by increased endurance, excellent adaptability to changing growing conditions, winter hardiness and frost resistance, longevity and a high degree of growth and reproduction both by vegetative and seed methods. However, more experienced phlox growers believe that some phloxes are much more capricious ('Dragon', 'Flame' (Popova), 'My Love is My Delight', 'Twilight', 'Ural Tales', 'Sirius', 'Gaganov's Favorite', 'Slavyanka ', etc.) than, for example, old time-tested varieties or so-called park and landscape phloxes. Having sufficient personal experience (more than 17 years of collecting phlox) I can say that this opinion is partly true. In almost any garden culture, it is customary to take an individual approach to the requirements of various varieties, which is why the experience and advice of collectors, through whose hands many cultivars have been tested, are so valued. Phloxes are also no exception to this rule.

Most of the domestic varieties and seedlings appeared in the gardens of amateurs, for whom most often the most important criterion for assessing phlox is the uniqueness of the color of the flower and its size, and not resistance to diseases, weather conditions and unpretentiousness in cultivation and maintenance. One of the main tasks of modern breeding is to ensure that Russian phloxes are not only exceptionally beautiful, but also have increased endurance, which would minimize complex agricultural practices, such as mandatory tying to supports, treatment against diseases and pests, frequency of additional watering and even a reduction in organic and mineral fertilizing.

But such an approach will require much more complex selection than simply culling similar and nondescript seedlings. Capricious, but unique in color and shape, seedlings of amateur selection will appear and spread, and it is unlikely that this will be avoided. This is precisely the practice that the entire world selection speaks about. It often happens that new garden plants appear that are unusual and unique in color, shape and size, but are capricious in care and maintenance, and only over time do breeders “refinement” the varieties and produce more reliable and unpretentious cultivars based on the “pioneer” varieties " Therefore, those phlox growers who set themselves the goal of collecting a collection of beautiful, rare, exceptional, but capricious phloxes need to carefully study all the subtleties of agricultural technology, so that the collection brings not only the joy of owning extraordinary varieties, but also brings true pleasure from contemplating beauty. In addition, competent care will allow you to fully explore the potential of your new seedlings, competently prepare them for exhibitions so that they show their varietal advantages in all their glory. After all, testing endurance in conditions with maximum comfort (rich garden soils, regular watering, etc.) is no less important than testing in conditions with minimal care. Some phlox begin to act up in a well-groomed flower garden, although in “Spartan” conditions they feel much better and thrive there for many years, without requiring any attention.

Flower growers purchase varietal phlox in various places - in nurseries, garden centers, and from private traders. The best option to get a strong and healthy plant is to buy a young seedling with a closed root system (in a pot) in a growing and even flowering state during the active growing season of open ground garden plants.

The so-called “winter and early spring purchases” of planting material (phlox rhizomes or grown cuttings in the ZKS) often become a problem for beginners, since they require overexposure either in a refrigerator at temperatures from 0 to -1 degrees, or in greenhouses with “ cold start", i.e. when night and day air temperatures are different. In room conditions with the same warm temperature day and night, with short daylight hours, it is rarely possible to keep planting material alive and healthy before planting in open ground. Moreover, such plants subsequently have a difficult and long time adapting to the garden. Therefore, if you do not have the experience, time and desire to deal with the troublesome winter-spring overexposure, then purchase new phloxes in the season - spring, summer, autumn, when open ground plants are in the growing season and phloxes can be planted in open ground immediately after purchase . If you order phlox by mail , then negotiate with the supplier the time to receive the plants at a time when the phlox is in adequate condition for favorable planting in your garden and delivery in the mailbox. The best time to send phlox by mail is the moment when the seedlings’ buds for the next season’s renewal are well matured, i.e. – late summer – autumn (from August 15 to early November)

Phlox division with well-ripened renewal buds:

A young shoot with renewal buds that will overwinter well, despite its modest appearance, and will produce a flowering phlox of the second year of development next year:

It should be noted that it is better to obtain phloxes of late flowering periods later, because their renewal buds may not mature until mid-autumn. ('Evening Song', 'Vladimir', 'Hochgesang', 'Miss Holland', etc.). For rhizomes without an above-ground part that are in a dormant state, the late date of planting in open ground is not significant, so flower growers in the northern regions should not rush traders to send rhizomes with immature renewal buds for fear that the phlox will not have time to take root and will not overwinter well in their area . Sending phlox by mail in the spring is not the best option, since the phlox are already in a state of active growth and can simply rot within a few days while in the mailbox. An exception to this rule is sending in the spring rhizomes that are still in a dormant state, but unfortunately, phloxes begin to grow very early and the time frame for such postal shipments is very short - no more than 10-14 days. A delay of only 3-4 days in sending a parcel may result in failure. In autumn, the terms of such transfers increase to 3 months.

As a rule, newly acquired varietal phloxes of our domestic selection come in two ways of vegetative propagation: cuttings from adult bushes or young seedlings obtained by cuttings . The microclonal method of propagation, which is widespread abroad, has not yet been mastered in our country and is used rarely and in exceptional cases. However, although this method is progressive, it has a number of significant disadvantages. For example, not all varieties can transmit their unique characteristics during microclonal propagation with a 100% guarantee, and this issue still requires further work. And if you want to be guaranteed to receive pure-quality planting material, then the best option is to purchase young phloxes obtained by cuttings, which has been practiced for a very long time and even in the book of P.G. Gaganov it is said that rooted 1- 2 summer stem cuttings. Ideally, this should be a plant in the second year of development of the cutting, which has undergone wintering .

Young phlox of the second year of development, propagated by summer cuttings:

Cuttings from adult bushes are also standard planting material, but provided that the bush is not weakened by various diseases that it acquires during its life.

Photos of adult bushes of summer division and phlox divisions:

Photo of a division into one branch with a dry shoot from last year, which it is advisable to remove, otherwise when it rots, the young plant may develop problems associated with fungal diseases. If the old stump cannot be removed, then the root system must be treated with a fungicide to treat the planting material from rot. For example, “Maxim”, “Vitaros”, etc. drugs:

Unfortunately, completely healthy phlox bushes in large and old collections are not found as often as we would like. Sometimes unscrupulous traders begin to divide phloxes only at the moment when the plants begin to age and bloom worse due to any diseases, including hidden ones. Young seedlings propagated by cuttings practically do not have such problems; on the contrary, they have a renewed strong immune system and are able to live longer in the same place, actively developing and resisting various diseases, including viral ones. This is why experienced phlox growers prefer to renew varietal phloxes by cuttings rather than by dividing old bushes. There is even an expression among experienced collectors - “transfer phlox to new roots,” since most often it is in the rhizome that various plant problems accumulate over the years.

In this regard, I would like to say a few words about the widespread opinion in the narrow circles of “venerable” phlox growers that phloxes propagated by cuttings do not always convey varietal characteristics if the timing is poorly chosen or the wrong part of the shoot is taken for propagation or the age of the phlox less than 3 years. Such ignorant statements simply cannot be taken seriously by anyone with an education and the ability to study even a passing biology and botany. I definitely made this logical conclusion for myself. Rumors are spread by those traders who are simply too lazy to propagate phlox by cuttings; it is labor-intensive and time-consuming. It is easier for ignorant people to divide up old bushes for sale and spread ridiculous rumors, trying to remove more advanced competitors from the market.

If you have no choice and want to buy cuttings from adult phlox bushes, pay attention to the condition of not only the flowers, leaves and roots, but also the quality of the stems in their lower part. If they show signs of fomoz, then it is better to refuse the purchase. This disease is difficult to treat and, as a rule, such plants are infected not only with a fungal infection, but also with a nematode, which is even more difficult to get rid of.

Photos of phlox shoots with signs of Phoma infection:

Comparative photo of a healthy shoot with an infected shoot:

Phomosis should not be confused with such a physiological phenomenon as cracking of stems, which is an unpleasant varietal feature of some varieties. Fortunately, there are very few such varieties. Some photos of cracking stems for comparison:

So, in order to grow the most decorative and luxurious phlox bushes, you need to make a lot of effort to follow correct and competent agricultural technology . However, the healthy appearance, lush flowering and longevity of any garden plant depend on a combination of factors that may vary depending on the specific conditions of a particular garden. Only by studying the features of the microclimate of your particular area can you understand what needs to be done to ensure that phloxes feel as comfortable as possible in this particular place.

Let's start with planting plants . The basis for the well-being of phlox over several years of cultivation depends on where, how and in what soil it is planted. Varietal paniculate phlox differ significantly in appearance from their wild relatives, but their preferences for successful and healthy growth remain the same. Wild plants from North America are moisture-loving and usually grow in damp places, in floodplains of rivers in wet meadows among shrubs and small forests, in wet glades rich in humus and humus on the forest floor. Varietal phloxes have the same needs. They like regular, abundant watering at the root, in a sunny or lightly shaded planting location in organic-rich soil. Be sure to take this into account when choosing a place to plant phlox or create such conditions artificially.

Phlox belongs to garden plants with intensive growth and development. As a rule, in the 4-5th year of growth, the soil under an adult bush is greatly depleted. Therefore, the planting site must be carefully prepared so that the plant feels comfortable for several years. And one more important point in choosing a landing site. You should not plant phlox where they have already grown for several years. Many experts in the field of soil science argue that the need for certain useful substances is individual for each garden crop and the plant uses them as much as possible throughout its life, depleting the soil at the planting site. In addition, very often the soil in such a place manages to accumulate a complex of fungal, bacterial and even viral diseases characteristic only of a particular crop. The practice of experienced flower growers confirms this theory. You can often hear stories from them about how in the first few years phloxes were distinguished by increased decorativeness and health in fresh soils, even without the addition of additional organic and mineral fertilizers. But repeated plantings of phlox in the same place were unsuccessful, the phlox grew and developed problematically, were more often affected by various diseases and wintered worse. For this reason, in the garden it is necessary to constantly alternate and change different crops according to the principle of “crop rotation”.

Where and on what soils phlox grow and develop best has been written a lot in the specialized literature. I will not talk about this in detail, I will only say that any cultivated garden soils are suitable for successfully growing paniculate phlox . Moreover, with years and experience comes an understanding of where and in what place in your garden phlox will feel best. Surprisingly, the same variety in different planting locations in just one garden can change greatly in appearance, and only the grower himself decides where exactly this or that variety looks most decorative, and such a good planting location cannot always be calculated only theoretically.

For beginners, I will say that when choosing a flower garden for phlox, be guided by the fact that it is convenient for regular watering - phlox is a moisture-loving crop . Moreover, increased air humidity is no less important than soil moisture. However, this does not mean that phlox should be planted in places with constantly damp and wet soil. As a rule, the best places with a certain humid microclimate, but without stagnant water, are in light openwork shading from tall trees and shrubs. This is especially important for varieties with flowers prone to fading ('J.S.Bach', 'Firebird', 'Moscow Fairy Tale', 'Isabel', etc.). In open areas, phlox grows well and develops only with mandatory watering in hot and dry weather. Unlike many garden crops, phlox grows well in soils with close groundwater, but you should avoid places where melt and rainwater stagnate for a long time.

Phlox gets along well with many plants in the garden ; they are second only in competition with trees and shrubs with a powerful superficial root system, for example, birch, spruce, dogwood, lilac, clematis, etc. In any case, if you notice that phlox is not developing as actively as it should be, try to find a new landing site for it. Moreover, do not transplant the entire bush to a new place, but plant only a young division from it or a cuttings. Adult bushes are not able to adapt to changes in growing conditions properly and can significantly worsen their condition and even die. For example, transplanted 3-4-year-old bushes tolerate wintering worse than young ones. Therefore, try to rejuvenate phloxes more often; young plants are more flexible and adapt to new conditions faster. This rule applies not only to capricious varieties.

Caring for young, adult and old phlox bushes is different and requires an individual approach . Often this important point is not specified in the general conditions of care. And, nevertheless, a young healthy plant of the first year only needs proper competent planting and regular watering during the first season; any fertilizing and mulching are excluded. This is especially important to know for those beginners who “sin” with excessive care and can literally feed young plantings with fertilizers to death. It should be well understood that any fertilizer should be used only when the plant is actively growing and developing. It is under such conditions that phlox adequately responds to feeding and its appearance only gets better. If the seedling has not had time to take root well and begins active growth on its own in a new place, there is no need to “spur” it artificially; the use of fertilizers at the time of adaptation to new conditions can lead to negative consequences and even death.

Typical mistakes and misconceptions that inexperienced phlox growers often make when faced with studying newfangled garden chemicals. The modern market offers many means for artificially stimulating the growth and development of plants. Such drugs as Epin, Zircon, Ribav, HB-101, Agat-25, Energen, Atlet, etc. They certainly help plants, but only on condition that the plant is healthy and needs a stimulus for more active development. Moreover, it is imperative to create conditions for the further successful growth of the plant treated with stimulants, and not doom it to “starvation with increased appetite.” And no matter how much you treat your phloxes with the latest preparations on poor and depleted soils, they will be of no use. Taking into account my personal experience, I will say that you can easily do without any artificial stimulants, just by following proper agricultural practices. Remember that healthy soil with a high content of organic matter, mineral fertilizers and microelements cannot be replaced by any super-energy or biostimulant . Unfortunately, beginners are often mistaken about this and do not understand some of the subtleties and nuances of the problem, stuffing plants with those “magic” remedies that so temptingly promise super-results from their use. For example, diseased plants do not always respond adequately to treatments with energy drinks. Often the reaction is negative, and therefore be sure to take into account that the diseased plant must first be cured and only then can it be stimulated to actively develop.

Separately, I would like to say about the use of organic and mineral fertilizers . Often inexperienced flower growers try to achieve lush flowering by actively using only mineral fertilizers, and make a serious mistake. On poor, depleted soils, for the successful growth and development of phlox, it is impossible to get by only with mineral fertilizers, no matter how good their quality. And if they are also used in higher doses, then this only leads to negative results. For phlox to flourish successfully, one “mineral water” is not enough; it must be used in combination with organic matter. Organic fertilizers have a multifaceted agronomic effect on soil properties. With the systematic addition of organic matter, the physical and chemical properties of the soil, its water and air regimes are improved, and the vital activity of beneficial microorganisms is activated, without which it is impossible to grow healthy plants. Moreover, the use of organic matter allows you to apply mineral fertilizers in large doses and obtain high results. Constantly use well-rotted manure, matured compost, black lowland peat with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction, bird droppings, leaf and green manure, etc. to enrich the soil in the garden. organic fertilizers.

Planting young phlox with ZKS can be done at almost any time of the season. Phlox with an open root system is best done in spring, late summer or autumn. In a flower garden with long-term and constantly cultivated soils, it is enough to dig a planting hole slightly larger than the root system of a young seedling and add mineral fertilizer, organic matter and ash there. On fresh and depleted soils, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work with the complete removal of weeds, digging and adding organic and mineral fertilizers along the entire perimeter of the flower garden. The rates and doses of fertilizers are calculated individually for each site and depend on the composition of the soil. Do not forget about the general rule in floriculture: heavy clay soils need to be additionally enriched with loosening materials, and clay should be added to light sandy soils. The ideal soil acidity for phlox is neutral or slightly acidic (pH - 5.5-7). It is generally accepted that phlox grow and develop worse on alkaline soils.

If phloxes are planted in rows, then the standard distance from one bush to another is 40-50cm.

An example of planning an amateur flower garden for planting phlox using wooden pegs and designating the planting location:

The planting hole for phlox is prepared as follows : dig a hole 25-30 cm deep and with a diameter exceeding the volume of the root ball of the young seedling. Add ash to the hole (2-3 heaped tablespoons), complex mineral fertilizer depending on the season (for example, in the spring - “Kemira-Universal. Spring”, in the summer - “Kemira-Universal. Summer”, in the fall - “Kemira-Universal”. . Autumn") in doses recommended on the packaging and organic fertilizer in solid form and well decomposed state:

The share of organic matter should be from a quarter to half of the soil mixture, depending on the condition of the soil and the quality of the organic matter itself. Mineral fertilizer, ash, organic matter and part of the soil removed from the hole are thoroughly mixed. It is most convenient to do this in the planting hole itself. Then, the soil mixture is again taken out of the hole, a small mound is made from the same soil mixture inside it and a seedling is placed on it, which is tied to a support after “trying on”. The root collar is buried 4-6 cm - so that the renewal buds located higher on the stem must be underground at a depth of at least 3 cm. The straightened root system is carefully covered with soil mixture and compacted tightly so that there is a shallow hole around the seedling. Water abundantly immediately and if the weather is dry, then every day for the next 3-4 days, depending on the well-being of the seedling.

Stages of planting a young phlox seedling:

If the seedling is received with washed roots or a severely damaged root system , then it should be planted on a sand “cushion” inside the hole, since its root system is in a certain stressful situation and the sand in this case will help it adapt more gently to new growing conditions. Phlox rhizomes without the above-ground part, obtained in late autumn, can be kept in storage until spring.

Starting from the second year of life in a new place, young phlox begins to be fed and mulched annually . The doses of fertilizers applied depend on the rate of growth and development of phlox. The more intense they are, the larger doses are required for the well-being, health and full flowering of the plant. There are various ways to feed phlox. After many years of experimenting, I chose the following method for my phloxes. In late autumn, after trimming the stems, I mulch mature bushes generously with well-decomposed manure or compost, under which I scatter complex mineral fertilizer for garden flowers and ash. In the spring, as soon as the young shoots grow to a height of 10-15 cm, I apply foliar fertilizing with urea - 20 g per 10 liters of water. Before flowering, at the moment when the first buds begin to appear on the shoots, I again mulch the soil under the bush with organic matter, under which I scatter ash and a complete mineral fertilizer for flowers, for example, Kemira-Universal. Floral." During the flowering period, I do not feed phloxes, but only water them abundantly at the root. At the end of flowering, I water the phlox with a solution of superphosphate and ash (20 g of double superphosphate and a glass of ash per 10 liters of water).

Autumn pruning of phlox bushes is an important agrotechnical technique that will allow you to avoid some problems associated with disease and care. Often, amateurs leave the stumps of old stems 10-20 cm high, or even do not cut off the old shoots of phlox in the fall, believing that the “tops” help retain snow and for this reason the phlox will not freeze out in a snowless winter. I cut the phlox very short - almost flush with the ground.

Let me explain why I cut phlox shoots short:

Firstly, the maximum number of spores of fungal diseases accumulates on last year’s shoots; insect pests overwinter between the dry shoots. It is at a height of 10-20 cm that it is more convenient for all these “byaks” to winter without freezing out - this is the minimum level of snow in a normal winter. Secondly, the remaining shoots interfere with autumn treatment with fungicides for preventive purposes and mulching with organic matter, which summer-autumn flowering phloxes are very fond of. Under natural conditions, the leaves and tops of the phloxes themselves and neighboring plants serve as natural organic autumn mulch. In the garden, sissy varietal phloxes need more careful care and a respectable appearance so that they show themselves in all their glory and delight us with their healthy appearance at any time of the season.

Autumn mulching is also necessary for phlox for a more successful winter and a “hearty” start in the spring. A normal physiological phenomenon for paniculate phlox is the growth of the rhizome upward, which exposes not only the roots, but also the renewal buds. And, in order to protect them from freezing, it is not enough to leave the stumps of the shoots in order to retain the snow. A striking example. During the snowless, frosty winter of 2002-2003, not a single phlox died in my collection! Whereas many phlox growers who did not cut phlox low and did not mulch them in the fall complained that they had lost part of their collection of varietal phlox. That year, as usual, I cut the phlox short and mulched them with a thick layer of well-rotted manure and peat. Thirdly, the aesthetic aspect. It is much more pleasant to watch the awakening of young shoots of phlox, which are not disturbed by last year’s dry “crutches-stumps”, which, when broken, can damage fragile spring shoots. Photos of phlox in early spring, which were pruned later in the fall and mulched:

And I’ll add more. Sometimes gardeners do not cut phlox short, citing the fact that renewal buds form in the lower part of the shoots at a height of 2-4 cm, which can overwinter under favorable weather conditions. According to my observations, I will say that from these shoots, as a rule, weaker or “blind” shoots and their flowering is less abundant than those that were underground in the soil. In addition, they can interfere with the development of stronger shoots, which will also affect the abundance of flowering of the bush as a whole. It makes sense to leave such renewal buds if large quantities of planting material for cuttings are needed.

“Blind” shoots in a phlox bush:

Varietal paniculate phlox are traditionally grown by tying them to supports . Exceptions are gardens and flower beds in the “nature garden” style, where as companions to phloxes, plants must be selected that, when planted tightly, will serve as support for each other, otherwise, in strong winds and heavy rainfall, the phloxes will fall, breaking shoots and inflorescences. Massive uniform plantings of phlox also contribute to the fact that phlox serve as support for each other.

In strong winds and heavy rainfall, phlox will fall, breaking shoots and inflorescences if they are not tied up:

Correctly and timely tied phloxes in a flower garden look natural and only upon careful examination can you see and understand that the plants are attached to the supports:

You need to start tying phloxes to supports as they grow . As soon as the height of the shoots is about 40-50cm tall, you need to start tying up the bushes. As it grows, the rope is either moved or tied with a new one higher:

Phlox in ceremonial flower beds require more careful care and in order for the inflorescences to be more powerful, the bush itself to be stronger and its overall decorativeness to increase, at the moment of setting the first buds the bush is thinned out from weak, blind and uneven shoots. The lower leaves are also removed, since by this moment they have lost their decorative effect - new foliage that has grown higher blocks the light and they begin to dry out naturally. In addition, old leaves will interfere with better watering at the roots and fungal diseases will appear on them first.

Photo of a phlox bush with “blind” shoots growing at the base. It is advisable to remove them so that they do not interfere with the plant and do not make it difficult to water at the root:

Feeding with a complete complex fertilizer, ash and mulching with organic matter before flowering is the best incentive for abundant flowering . Mineral fertilizer and ash are scattered under the base of the bush and along its perimeter:

... and then generously mulch the ground under the bush with well-decomposed compost, humus manure, peat, etc. organic fertilizer:

Water the bush abundantly, but so that the mulch is not washed away by a strong stream of water.

I'll add. The deadline for autumn pruning of phlox in the Moscow region is after October 15. It is possible a little earlier, but this period is optimal. Autumn mulching of pruned phlox bushes should be carried out ONLY after October 15, not earlier! It is possible even later - on frozen soil, but this is not entirely convenient, and it is unpleasant to tinker with organic matter in the cold. Earlier mulching (before October 15) can provoke the growth of dormant buds. However, this is not fatal for phlox, but the plant will definitely be a little weaker because the awakened shoots will begin to grow and then their tops will freeze.

Photo and text provided for posting by N. Konstantinova

Aftercare

In order for garden phlox to delight you all summer with its luxurious bright inflorescences and to bloom longer, they need to be periodically watered, loosened, fertilized and weeded after planting.

Spraying. In hot weather, when there is no rain for a long time, the planted plants should be moistened with water from a spray bottle. It is advisable to carry out the procedure late in the evening.
Fertilizer. It is impossible to apply fresh manure under the roots, as this provokes their rotting. It is better to mix humus with river sand, ash and compost. You can also fertilize the plantings with a mixture of potassium sulfate, nitrophoska and Agricola-7, taking 30 g of each drug. In dry summers, liquid fertilizers are used; in rainy summers, granules are used.
Watering. Phlox are moisture-loving plants; after planting, they need to be watered every 2 days for 3 weeks, then as the soil dries. You should pour water not on the leaves and flowers, but at the root. Cold watering in hot weather can cause the stems to crack.
Pinching. By pinching the stem, you can achieve branching and grow small but lush inflorescences. In addition, pinching stimulates the rapid growth of shoots and increases the duration of flowering. The procedure is carried out when the fifth pair of leaves appears at the beginning of summer.
Loosening and weed control. During loosening, you must try not to damage the roots located close to the surface. Before this, you should water the ground and weed out weeds. If desired, you can mulch the soil to better retain moisture.

By consistently following all of the above recommendations, you can achieve highly decorative plantings and grow large phloxes with lush inflorescences of different shades.

Caring for perennial phlox in the spring at the dacha

Phlox are sensitive to lack of moisture. Heat and drought are destructive for them. If there is a lack of water, you may notice that the leaves of plants droop or curl upward in the hot afternoon hours, although the next morning they look elastic and fresh. If phloxes do not receive water in time, they wither and cannot recover. It is very important to remember when caring for phloxes in the spring at the dacha that the lack of moisture in late autumn reduces the winter hardiness of phloxes. Water so that the entire treated layer of soil gets wet (15-20 liters of water per 1 sq. m).

Phlox suffers from both a lack and an excess of water. Their root system is located in the upper oxygen-rich layer of soil. When it is oversaturated with moisture, the root system begins to lack oxygen and dies quite quickly, leading to the death of the entire plant.

Lack of carbon dioxide also has a negative effect on phlox, which leads to a decrease in the accumulation of nutrients.

When caring for perennial phlox in the spring, you need to enrich the soil with carbon dioxide; this can be done by adding organic fertilizers, which also improve its structure.

During a hot, dry period, if it is not possible to constantly be on the site and water the phlox, mulching the plantings is effective.

Mulch is the keeper of soil fertility; it prevents moisture evaporation and reduces the number of waterings, protects phlox roots from overheating, protects the soil from compaction, and prevents the appearance of weeds.

Rotted leaves, humus or grass clippings can be used as mulch. Leaf compost improves soil structure and water holding capacity.

By the age of five, some varieties of phlox lose their attractiveness, the shoots become thin, the inflorescences and flowers become smaller. Such plants need to be rejuvenated.

During the growing season of plants, preventive treatments are periodically carried out against pests and diseases (spraying or dusting) and fertilizing.

At the end of flowering, in order to prevent self-seeding and preserve varietal phloxes, the inflorescences are cut off. This pruning stimulates the formation of a large number of side shoots, which sometimes bloom in the fall.

When to plant phlox

Planting phlox in open ground in spring should be early. When the snow has already melted and the soil has not yet dried out too much.

For the southern regions, this period falls at the end of March - mid-April.
The middle zone plants phlox at the end of April.
The northern regions are waiting for the end of April and beginning of May.

The Paniculate variety is loved to be grown in Russia.

It is important to know! The time period for planting phlox in the spring is two weeks, until the stems begin to actively grow.

Planting dates in autumn

The advantage of autumn planting is the length of planting time - up to 40 days. The plant gives all its strength to root growth, and next spring the phloxes bloom fully. Whereas after spring planting, in summer flowering may be delayed or completely absent.

Autumn planting can begin immediately after the formation of renewal buds. Each plant has its own planting calendar. Usually this is the end of August - beginning of September. Late-flowering varieties are planted from mid-September to the end of October.

What to do if the recommended planting dates have passed

Domestic phlox tolerate transplanting and dividing the tuber even in summer and in a blooming state. During this procedure, it is important not to damage the roots, and to water the planted cuttings regularly.

If the late planting occurs in the fall, it is important to protect the young roots from the cold. To do this, the seedlings are mulched with straw, sawdust, and peat.

Mulch in the hands of a gardener.

It is important to know! In winter, phlox should not be covered with materials that do not allow air to pass through. The plant withers and dies.

Place for planting phlox in spring

When choosing a place to plant phlox in the spring, you should not forget about the conditions for their growth. They germinate in areas with a relatively warm and very humid climate, where there is often no snow in winter and the average temperature is around +4OC. As a rule, these are lawns, floodplains or forest edges, with loose and moist soil with a sufficient content of organic matter.

Plantings can be located both in sunny areas and in shaded areas. It is still better to choose places near bushes or rare trees with light shade. In such places, snow accumulates better, and phlox suffers less from sudden temperature fluctuations in winter.

How to choose healthy planting material

In garden centers it is possible to purchase greenhouse varieties of low-ornamental varieties. They were brought from Europe and during the delivery process their root system most often dries out. Such seedlings take a very painful and long time to acclimatize. In appearance, they begin to approach the image on the packaging after 2-3 years of life in the garden and with very careful care.

Healthy and well-growing seedlings will be available to local flower lovers. It is important that they were grown in the same conditions, which means that it will be much easier to take root in a new place.

A phlox baby should have 4-5 healthy green shoots up to 10 cm long. The roots should not be dry, free from stains and rot. The root system should be shortened to 15 cm.

Phlox perennial

Description. Strong, erect stems reach a height of 60-180 cm. They end in a complex inflorescence. - with a broom. The shape of the inflorescence can be spherical (flat or conical), cylindrical and umbrella-shaped. There are species with creeping branching stems. In spring they are usually covered with many small flowers.

New shoots develop from the buds formed at the base of last year’s shoot. Their number is 2-3 times higher than the number of shoots last year. At first the shoots grow horizontally, and after about 2 cm they begin to grow upward.

By the end of June, inflorescences begin to form, and renewal buds begin to form at the base of the stems.

Flowers of various colors, sizes reach 4.5-5 cm. Their color is white, pink, lilac, lilac-bluish, violet and red. There are usually 50 flowers in an inflorescence. There are varieties with 150-200 flowers in an inflorescence.

Perennial phloxes, like annual ones, are grouped into two main groups:

low-stemmed (with spring flowering periods);
tall-stemmed (bloom in autumn or late summer).

Varieties: Phlox subulate, paniculate, spreading, as well as varieties especially valued by flower growers around the world (Viking, Smoky Coral, Dawn, Josephine Gerbeau and others).

Phlox propagates by cuttings, dividing the bush and seeds.

Phloxes are quite winter-hardy. With good snow cover they spend the winter without shelter. But still, in our conditions, protection (peat, leaves, humus) is desirable. Shelters are made after the soil has lightly frozen.

Soil preparation

The composition of the soil for phlox is a very important point in caring for these beauties.

The soil for planting is prepared six months in advance:

the selected area should be cleared of debris and weeds;
the area needs to be dug up several times to make the soil crumbly;
since phlox roots grow to a depth of 30 cm, soil cultivation should be no less than this depth.

Depending on the type of soil, various additives are needed:

Clay soil needs coarse sand, lowland peat, humus, compost, lime, and mineral fertilizers.
To loose soil you need to add clay soil, turf soil, humus, compost and mineral fertilizers.

It is important to know! During planting, fertilizers are added to the hole. Phosphorus-potassium during autumn planting and nitrogen-containing in the spring.

Preparing phlox for winter

In autumn, when the flowers fall, it is necessary to cut off the top part of the plant, leaving stems measuring only 3-5 cm above the ground.

Then, as mentioned above, the land is fertilized with horse manure. Next comes the process of mulching the soil.

In winter, when snow falls, you need to pour it on top of the plants - this will be a good warm coat for them.

Now, dear readers, you know that phlox, which is not difficult to plant and care for, can, if desired, be grown and admire the beautiful flowers in the spring, all summer and until late autumn.

Reproduction

At the end of May, seeds are sown in the future flower bed. The soil needs to be moistened with warm water, the seeds should not be deepened too much (breeders recommend sowing without deepening on the surface of the soil).

After planting, the seeds need to be covered with film for several days. Next, maintain moisture by spraying, and after germination, reduce watering so that the young roots do not rot.

Growing annual phlox from seed varies slightly. The seed is first planted in containers under film in early spring, and in early May, the seedlings are ready for planting in open ground.

How to grow phlox from seeds

For successful propagation of phlox by roots, they need to have a supply of nutrients. This is either early spring or late autumn.

Autumn roots are cut by 2/3 and planted in boxes with nutritious soil, sprinkled with river sand on top. They need to spend the winter in cold and darkness. And in the spring, slowly increase the temperature and lighting. In May, the seedlings are ready to be transplanted into a schoolyard in open ground.

In spring, planting phlox with rhizomes is easier. How to plant phlox in the spring with roots so as not to harm the mother plant? You only need to cut the roots by 1/3. Then they are placed in pots and live in greenhouses at a temperature no higher than +10C, protected from light. After two weeks, the temperature is raised to +25C. The emerging sprouts are accustomed to the sun. Seedlings that have grown 10 cm are planted in a schoolyard in open ground.

You can divide a phlox bush in early spring or early autumn. The dug up bush is divided into pieces of several shoots.

Important! The main thing is that the roots contain active buds; without them, the division will die.

The process of dividing a phlox bush

Botanical description of phlox

Almost all phlox are perennial flowering plants. The only exception is Drummond's phlox (Phlox drummondi Nook). The stems are erect, ascending or creeping, from 10 cm to 1.5 m in height. The flowers are tubular-funnel-shaped, fragrant, small in size, up to 3-4 cm in diameter. The coloring of the corolla can be varied. Varieties with pure white and white flowers with eyes, as well as flowers with hatched or dotted coloring, are cultivated. As a rule, flowers are collected in complex inflorescences. Each inflorescence can include about several dozen five-petaled flowers, which are bent at a right or almost right angle.

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Planting is carried out in early spring. Planting and replanting phlox does not fall into the category of complex activities, but requires compliance with certain rules.

Planting in open ground and further care

Phlox, both perennial and annual, should be planted only in a substrate prepared in advance.

Planting a seedling in open ground

How to plant phlox in open ground:

The bottom of the hole should be lined with nutritious soil.
A hill is made from the soil, on which the seedling is placed, and its roots are straightened down.
During planting, you need to fertilize the seedling depending on the time of year.

It is important to know! Low varieties are planted at a distance of 35-40 cm from each other. Tall, a meter apart from each other.

Phlox care is simple:

Good lighting will ensure abundant and constant flowering.
Watering is needed abundantly, but not frequently.
The soil periodically needs to be loosened and weeds removed.
During the period of active flowering, it is necessary to apply complex mineral fertilizer every two weeks.

A very interesting question that interests novice flower lovers is where to plant phlox in the shade or in the sun? There is no clear answer because:

in the sun the flowering will be abundant, but the bushes will be more squat;
in the shade the shoots will stretch out, and flowering may be rare;
the scorching midday sun can leave burns on the petals;
It would be optimal to plant in a place where the sun changes to shade during the day.

Annual phlox Drummonda loves sunny places

For wintering, all shoots are cut almost flush with the ground. Afterwards, the flowerbed is mulched with peat, humus or a layer of dried leaves. Pruning is carried out from the end of September to the end of October.

It is important to know! Uncut shoots in winter risk becoming a breeding ground for fungal diseases and pests.

In the right soil, phlox will be completely unpretentious and easy to care for and reproduce. This airy marshmallow of inflorescences with a pleasant aroma is ready to decorate the garden throughout the summer. It easily coexists with other cultures and fits perfectly into decorative compositions.

Pests and diseases of phlox

Of course, with proper care and propagation of phloxes, they are unlikely to get sick, but still, sometimes even the most insignificant mistake can cause flower disease.

If the flowerbed is in a too dark place, the phlox may develop white spotting, powdery mildew or rust.

Viral and mycoplasma diseases, which manifest themselves in different ways, pose a serious danger.

The most common viral disease is variegation (the causative agent is the rhizome mosaic virus). Most often it appears during the period of mass flowering of phlox.

In addition to diseases, phlox can be attacked by pests such as nematodes, slugs, caterpillars, cruciferous flea beetles and pennies. It is also advisable to occasionally disinfect garden tools, flowerpots, soil, especially purchased soil, and a table for working with plants.

When is the best time to plant phlox?

Planting phlox in spring in open ground is done during the period when the last spring frosts have passed. This time may vary depending on the planting area and falls between mid-April in the south and late May in the northern parts of the country. To choose a date, you need to check the landing calendar.

Plants are also planted in early autumn, at least a month before the first frost, so that they have time to take root. Autumn planting is more desirable than spring planting, since the seedling devotes a lot of energy to flowering, and for a successful winter the bush needs to develop.

Important! Do not delay planting phlox in the fall. A bush planted late may not take root.

What to do if the recommended planting dates have passed? A bush with a developed root system can be planted throughout the growing season. If a bush is transplanted to a new place, you need to move it with a lump of earth in which the bush grows so that the seedling can take root before winter. Phlox is planted with seeds before the beginning of summer; planting at a later date is not advisable.

Dates for spring planting of phlox in different regions

Both spring and autumn planting of perennial phlox have their positive sides and can have complications. This flower can be planted even in summer, although autumn planting is often preferred, since phlox tolerates it most easily, and quite a lot of time is allocated for this procedure. In spring, the difficulty lies in the fact that the time allowed for planting is short: it is undesirable to leave this activity until it becomes very hot and the plants enter a period of intensive growth.

You can begin work soon after the snow has melted and the soil has dried out a little, when it will be possible to work with it comfortably. In most regions (middle zone, Chernozem region, Volga region) this is usually the end of April, and it is better to finish planting no later than mid-May. In the north, in Siberia and the Urals, these dates shift by a week or a week and a half towards summer; in the south, planting can be done in the first half of April. It is important that the average air temperature is consistently positive, and that the seedlings grow shoots several centimeters high.

Reproduction of phlox at home

Propagation of phlox from seeds

You can get phlox from seeds; this cultivation is practiced on annual varieties. In this aspect, the Drummond variety showed itself well. But when planting perennial seeds, their varietal qualities are lost. This needs to be remembered for those who want to know how to grow phlox from seeds.

Planting can be done as seedlings at home. They do this in early March, sowing flower seeds in light soil in small pots that are covered with film, wait until the seed hatches, then remove the film. In May, seedlings can be planted on the site.

For reference: in the southern regions, seeds can be sown in the ground outside, but not earlier than the beginning of June. At the same time, you need to understand that germination will be significantly worse.

Propagation of phlox by roots

A formed 3-year-old bush can be divided into several parts and planted in new places.

To do this, in the fall, cut the phlox stems in half, dig up the whole or part of the bush, then transfer it to a new planting site. Fertilizers are added to the pre-dug hole and the rhizome of the divided bush is added. Planting phlox with rhizomes is also done in the spring.

Planting Phlox in the ground

Dividing the bush

The lifespan of phlox is 15 years. To maintain abundant flowering, you can periodically renew the plant by planting parts of the formed rhizome.

A 5-year-old bush is dug up along with a lump of earth, cut with a shovel into several parts, which are transferred to the site of new plantings. The bush should be carefully divided, as insufficient roots can make the plant unproductive. This must be taken into account before planting phlox roots in the spring.

What do the seeds and seedlings of annual phlox look like?

The fruits of these flowers are oval boxes. The size and weight of the seeds depends on the type and variety. In annual representatives of the genus there can be up to 550 of them in 1 g. The seeds are wingless. The color of mature specimens is brownish-green, but varies from light to chocolate brown and sometimes almost black.

Phlox Drummond has an upper ovary with three nests - each with one ovule

The appearance of seedlings again depends on the type and variety. Phlox Drummond has solid light green leaves. Their shape differs among different varieties, so it is important to take into account the characteristics of a particular variety. Stems are pubescent.

Regardless of the type and variety, seedlings must be strong and healthy; their yellowing, pallor and lethargy are bad signs

Rules for planting phlox

How to choose healthy planting material

Before planting perennial phlox, it is worth choosing varieties adapted for cultivation in temperate climates.

You should definitely make sure that you are buying a plant with the desired bud color, so it is better to choose material with flowers that have not yet been cut.

When choosing a seedling, they inspect it for diseases, check whether there is rotting or damage from pests on the roots. You need to buy a bush with well-developed roots, their length should be at least 10 cm.

Preparing the soil before planting

Phlox love slightly acidic, light soil. The clay is loosened with sand, and lime and ash are added to the acidic environment. Too poor soil is enriched with manure and compost.

If the bush is planted in a new, uncultivated area, the ground around the hole must be dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet.

Choosing a place and soil for planting

If the area has shallow groundwater, the planting site should be chosen on a hill, since the plant has a developed root system that goes to a depth of 20 cm, and groundwater can lead to rotting of the roots.

There is an opinion among gardeners that it does not matter where to plant phlox, in the shade or in the sun. The most suitable areas are lightly shaded areas where bright sunlight will not burn the petals of the seedling. Plant the bush on pre-fertilized, loosened soil.

Note! Low-lying areas should be avoided, as fog can accumulate in them, which can cause powdery mildew on the plant's leaves.

There is no need to plant the plant near large trees, as they will compete and take nutrients from each other. A tree with developed roots can destroy a recently germinated seedling.

Planting in open ground

If the place and time for planting phlox have been determined, then it is necessary to begin planting. Phloxes are placed at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. The bush should have 4-5 shoots at least 8 cm long, roots at least 10 cm.

The depth of the pit should be at least 30 cm; a mixture of compost and mineral fertilizers in equal parts is poured into the bottom. The seedling is placed in a hole with the roots straightened.

Before planting phlox in open ground, you need to soak the rhizome for several hours in a root growth stimulator. The growing point should be 3 cm below the surface of the earth.

When and how to plant and grow phlox in the garden

Phlox of various colors will decorate any flower bed. There are species that bloom in spring, summer and autumn. The planted varieties will change without ceasing to delight with their colors. Planting and growing phlox is not difficult, the main thing is to know a few important rules and apply them in action.

How to plant phlox in spring? Choose one of 3 methods: dividing bushes, growing using cuttings, planting seeds for seedlings. Flower seeds quickly become unusable, so you should not delay planting and it is better to purchase them in a specialized store.

How to plant phlox: 3 effective ways

Phloxes do not like the bright rays of the sun, which make the colors of the buds dull. A place that is too dark does not have enough light for growth. The best option is to plant the flower in partial shade. Before starting work, you need to prepare the soil, the acidity of which should be neutral or slightly salted.

Then dig up the ground to a depth of 30 cm, remove the weeds and make the beds. Sow the prepared area only after the soil has settled. At the end of autumn or early winter, place the seeds in the ground, with an interval of 5 cm. Sprinkle the seeds with prepared soil or store-bought soil. If snow has already fallen, make a small snowdrift on top.

It is better to divide bushes in early spring or late August. Carefully dig up the phlox and remove excess soil. Divide the plant into parts so that they have growth buds. Place the flower root in the prepared shallow hole and cover with soil.

Propagation by cuttings. Cut a healthy stem and divide it into sections with two nodes. Make cuts under the bottom node and slightly above the top one. Plant the cuttings in soil fertilized with leaf humus, mixed with sand and watered.

How to grow phlox

To grow luxurious phloxes, you need to care for them. Flowers do not like dry soil and especially need moisture during the flowering period. They need to be watered right under the bush, without touching the buds. Water the planted cuttings 2-3 times a day for several weeks. In order for the flowers to bloom beautifully and for a long time, nourish the soil with various fertilizers.

The first stage of feeding begins after the snow melts. At this stage, the flower needs nitrogen and water. The fertilizer is diluted in liquid and poured into the soil or poured dry, and then watered from a watering can. Manure or chopped grass is a good form of feeding. At the second stage, the formation of a bud and the appearance of flowers begins. During this period, the plant needs potassium and phosphorus more than nitrogen.

Feeding begins at the end of spring with complex mineral fertilizers. This can be a mixture of mullein with potassium humate or with ash. At the last stage, the seeds ripen and prepare for winter, so phlox needs phosphorus. Fertilizing is carried out in June with potassium fertilizers, and in some cases with urea solution.

Excess nitrogen supplements make the plant more susceptible to various infections, for example, powdery mildew. This is the most common disease when the leaves become covered with white spots and then dry out. In this case, prevention is necessary with a solution of soda ash or a mixture of copper sulfate and soap.

Now you know when to plant phlox and how to grow them. If you properly care for flowers, they will bloom long and luxuriantly.

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Low-growing varieties do not grow more than a meter.

The inflorescences are painted white or carmine and have an elongated shape.

A tall variety of phlox can reach a height of 60 centimeters to 1.5 meters.

The inflorescences of this species are awl-shaped and come in a variety of colors: pink, white, red.

Soil fertilization

First feeding in April. To 10 liters of water add granules of nitrophosk or urea 20-30 g, per 1 m.
Second feeding in mid-May. Mix 10 liters of water, 1 liter of mullein infusion or 500 g of chicken manure per 1 meter.
In mid-June they feed for the third time. For 10 liters of water, 100 g of ash and 15 g of urea, per 1 m. Stimulates abundant flowering, enhances the color of the buds.
The fourth feeding helps to resist fungal infections and is carried out at the end of June. To 10 liters of water add potassium sulfate 15 g, superphosphate 15 g, urea 5 g, per 1 m.
Phloxes are fertilized for the fifth time in August. Mix 10 liters of water with 10 g of potassium sulfate and 20 g of superphosphate, per 1 m.

To prevent roots and leaves from getting burned, fertilizers are poured after rainfall in cloudy weather. You need to pour at the root without getting on the stem and leaves.

In what cases should phlox be planted in the fall?

The lush flowering and varied colors of phlox inflorescences fascinate many gardeners. There are several reasons why you should plant flowers in the fall.

For impatient gardeners who want to quickly enjoy a beautiful view and a wonderful aroma, autumn is the right time of year to plant seedlings.

If you plant flowers just before winter, then next year the bushes will delight beauty lovers with delightful colorful flowers.

In the velvet autumn season there is enough time for flowers to take root, unlike in spring. Natural moisture in the soil and low temperatures are also favorable for rooting.