Let us consider in detail the possible problems when growing yucca: why the leaves turn yellow, dry, turn black or droop. As well as pests and the most dangerous diseases that can lead to the death of a flower.
With proper care of yucca at home, the risk of pests, diseases or problems with decorativeness is significantly reduced. Therefore, maintain optimal growing conditions and carefully care for it.
It is especially important to properly water the palm tree and conduct regular inspections for prevention.
Yucca or dracaena
People often ask how to distinguish yucca from dracaena? There are species of dracaenas that look very similar to yucca, for example, Dracaena aletriformis Dracaena aletriformis or the species Dracaena massangeana (not variegated). The differences are:
- Yucca has small teeth along the edge of the leaf: noticeable roughness along the edge of the leaf, if you draw from the tip to the base
- Yucca leaves are stiffer, denser, and on young tops they stick out straight up
- The edges of yucca leaves are usually straight, while those of dracaena are often slightly wavy (the leaves themselves are softer)
- in yucca, the top of the leaf ends in a prickly spine
- Yucca's roots are reddish, sometimes quite intense in color; dracaena's roots are always white
- with the same crown size, the yucca's trunk is always thicker than that of the dracaena
Reproduction methods
Yucca garden is propagated mainly by dividing the roots or lateral shoots.
It is recommended to carry it out in the spring. The ideal time for such work is March. Reproduction is carried out as follows:
- carefully dig up the plant so as not to damage the root system;
- cuttings up to 5 cm long are cut from the rhizome;
- the resulting fragments are dried in the fresh air for 4 hours, then they are planted in a greenhouse to a depth of 5-7 cm. For this purpose, it is worth using sandy soil.
After the seedlings sprout, the film is removed. With the arrival of spring or autumn (depending on the time of division), the plants are transplanted to a sunny, warm area of open ground.
Division by shoots and leaves is carried out in a similar way. However, this method is considered less productive, which is why it is practically not practiced by private farms.
It is also possible to propagate yucca by seeds. However, this process is much more complex and less productive than division by roots or leaves. Only experienced gardeners can cope with it, so beginners are advised not to take risks and choose easier-to-use methods.
How to care for yucca
Question: Tell me, how to care for yucca, different sites advise differently: will it grow a trunk, or only leaves?
Natali: Yucca loves sunlight, I personally have it on a south-facing window sill, which is not shaded by trees. In winter there is always not enough light and a south window is just right. But in summer, sometimes shading may be required during the hottest hours - at noon on a sunny day. You should not place a yucca in the center of the room at all; if it is large and grows in a tub or large pot on the floor, then it should be placed by the window. It must be watered so that the soil is not wet; the top layer of soil must dry out. Water should not remain on the tray, but spray very well 2 times a day, but only in hot weather, or if there is a battery nearby. At other times there is absolutely no need to spray.
Yucca is too susceptible to overwatering - it rots easily, so make drainage at the bottom of the pot and it is high enough, with a layer 2 fingers thick.
Caring for Yucca at home - in the section of the Encyclopedia of indoor plants.
irina-bahus: Mine is on the south window, I can’t stand it on the balcony. Don't overdo it with watering and everything will be fine. A friend gave me a cutting about 10 cm from the rotten trunk of her yucca. In three years, my “cutting” became more than a meter long, and the trunk began to grow woody. You have to transship it twice a year. Yes, and in winter, when there is central heating, I spray all the flowers, including the yucca, every day. I don’t spray it in the summer, but I wash it once a week - it’s in the kitchen.
Regarding the growth rate of yucca: it will grow from a small cutting, but the trunk will not grow in height soon. On my yucca, a trunk formed after two years, now it is 5 years old, the trunk is a little more than 20 cm, and the yucca itself is 2 meters.
barsuchok: the trunk grows very slowly in height, the foliage grows faster.
Question: I transplanted Yucca after overwatering about 2-2.5 weeks ago. It stands unchanged, it has a leaf inside it, so every morning I come up and see whether it has grown or not; if it has grown, it means the crisis has passed. And another question: is it important which room, southern or western?
irina-bahus: Actually, it’s not the room, but the amount of light. There should be more light in the south, but if a house is blocked by a tree or something else, then the opposite may happen. My yucca is on the southern windowsill, it doesn’t seem to be complaining, but one of the forum members (Oksana) has a luxurious yucca in the entrance, where there is no light at all. Maybe the fluorescent lamps are on all the time, and that’s fine. I usually determine that there is very little light when the plant either begins to sharply stretch towards the light, stretch unnaturally, or stops growing altogether.
Gray: From personal experience there was exactly the same story, and with my yucca I can say the following:
- 2-3 cm depth for replanting is normal; I don’t recommend deeper - the trunk will rot!
- Very careful watering! It's better to underfill than overfill!
- No drafts!
- Optimal temperature conditions (within the limits of capabilities and actual conditions of detention).
- Do not pick or cut off the yellowed leaves, let them fall off on their own.
- Since the planting is not deep, support it with 2-3 bamboo sticks, or plastic only, not iron, metal tends to oxidize, ruining the soil!
- The most important thing is lighting! Preferably in winter from 16 to 22 hours illumination!
- If it’s not near the battery, it’s better not to spray it yet! From spring to September, it is better to place it on the balcony, but remove it from direct sun. During this period I don’t spray at all!
Yucca in the Encyclopedia
Pests
Pests can cause leaves to dry out or turn yellow.
Let us consider in detail the possible problems when growing yucca: why the leaves turn yellow, dry, turn black or droop. As well as pests and the most dangerous diseases that can lead to the death of a flower.
With proper care of yucca at home, the risk of pests, diseases or problems with decorativeness is significantly reduced. Therefore, maintain optimal growing conditions and carefully care for it.
It is especially important to properly water the palm tree and conduct regular inspections for prevention.
Yucca leaves have dropped
Question: My yucca leaves don’t stick up as they should, but hang down a little (like dracaena). I spray them and water them after the soil has completely dried!
Natali: If your yucca is large, that is, the leaves are long (more than 20 cm), if it feels good and there are no signs of ill health, then such drooping of the leaves is normal. They droop as if from their own weight. However, if short leaves (up to 15-20 cm) droop, especially if they are limp, then this is due to excess moisture in the ground. It just seems to you that you are not flooding, but try to dig up the ground and touch the inside - how wet it is there. In rare cases, in the heat, the leaves may droop from drying out. Therefore, you need to rely only on the dry or wet state of the soil inside the pot.
Question: A week after the purchase, the leaves of the yucca began to dry out, then the leaves began to wilt and dry out. For some reason the small shoot just fell off, even though it was green. What am I doing wrong?
Natali: Most likely, your yucca suffered from systematic waterlogging. Yucca leaves are dense, so they look like they are drying out when overwatered, but this is a deceptive impression. Replant, inspect the roots, if you have no drainage in the pot, do it. Just replant before watering, when the soil is dry. Firstly, this makes it easier to scatter the old earthen ball, and secondly, check whether the plant has been flooded - normally, the soil should be dry before the next watering. Make the drainage high - about three fingers high, this will better protect yourself from overflow. Do not compact the new soil too much - it will settle on its own. If the lighting is good, then the yucca can be sprayed less often, every other day, every two. Yuccas suffer much more from lack of sun in winter than from dry air!
Irina-gorsh: I advise you to carefully feel the trunk. The big problem is softening of the trunk, an alarm signal. Look deeper into the soil, maybe only the top layer is dry, and the bottom layer may not have time to dry out. I have a yucca in a small pot, and I water it once a week and then sparingly, yuccas often suffer from overwatering.
sweety: When the leaves of my yucca began to droop, I changed the watering regime - practically did not water at all! I spilled it with phytosporin-m (diluted the paste). But first I replanted it in fresh soil for yuccas. I cleaned the roots, but did not wash them - I rinsed them in a bucket with diluted phytosporin. I made the drainage 10 cm (I have a high pot). After transplanting, I didn’t water it for a week.
Question: At first the yucca leaves were lush green and stretched upward, but now they are limp and pale. But recently the baby fell off. The shoot rotted right on the trunk. What can be done?
Puffy: Dry the earthen lump! Take the flower out of the pot onto the newspapers, and change its “diapers” if it’s overflow, and I think it definitely is.
Elena: An additional reason is the lack of light - if there is little light, overwatering occurs faster, more often, since with a lack of light the processes of photosynthesis and growth slow down, metabolism slows down and the need for moisture decreases, and you continue to water as if it was “working” on to the world
Common Yucca Diseases
Most diseases of yucca are associated with improper maintenance - waterlogging of the soil, depletion of the soil mixture, and, consequently, weakening of the plant's immunity. But it happens that the infection enters from the outside, for example, with the substrate or other indoor flowers. What problems most often arise with palm trees?
Fungal infections affecting the crown
Several groups of fungi manifest themselves by infecting yucca leaves. All sorts of spots, yellowing, and sores appear on them. If you don’t catch it in time, the spots increase, merge, and eventually the leaves dry out and the plant itself droops. We’ll tell you how to revive it at home using the example of several diseases.
Cercospora is an infection caused by a fungal pathogen (Cercospora)
A favorable environment for this fungus is high humidity. It occurs due to constant overflows, as well as when the grower gets carried away with spraying plants. Round spots of light brown color with a dark border appear on the leaves, which gradually grow, affecting new areas.
Having noticed the disease, first of all remove the affected leaves as much as possible.
Then treat with a systemic fungicide, first a “light” one (Fundazol, Topaz). The number of sprayings is 2–3 times with an interval of 10 days.
And, of course, it is necessary to eliminate the factors that led to the yucca disease - dry the earthen ball, reduce watering, stop spraying the crown.
Brown spot
The causes of the lesion are similar to the previous disease, but are caused by a fungus of a different group. It primarily affects the lower (old) leaves. First, discolored areas appear, then they turn yellow, and after 3–4 months they become brown. At this time, you can notice fungal spores located in the center of the spots.
Control measures are the same as for cercospora. If the disease has progressed, you can use a stronger fungicide, for example, Ridomil Gold.
Leaf marginal necrosis
This fungal infection is diagnosed by gray-brown spots affecting the edges of the leaf blade. Sometimes the spot can be “wet” and have a pronounced concentric shape.
If the speck is small, the sheet can not be removed, but only the diseased area can be cut out, capturing part of the healthy tissue. To disinfect the wound, treat the edges with crushed activated carbon.
After the “operation”, spray the yucca with a fungicide solution.
Fusarium rot
This is a dangerous fungal infection that leads to leaf rot. They are usually affected at the base and rot completely.
To combat fusarium fungus, systemic fungicides are used, such as Fundazol, Previkur, Profit. If the damage is severe, it is better to throw away the plant along with the pot.
To ensure effective control of diseases and pests, the crown, trunk and, of course, the soil are sprayed. Sometimes it is recommended to remove the top layer of substrate contaminated with fungal spores or insect larvae. In case of fungal diseases, to be on the safe side, the plant is not only sprayed, but also watered several times with a weak solution of fungicide.
Stem rot
If the loss of leaves is a temporary problem, new ones will grow after treatment, then everything is not so simple with the trunk. This is the main artery through which food flows; if it dies, the yucca will also die.
The trunk affected by rot becomes soft, brown ulcers appear on it, from which a watery substance oozes.
Only surgical intervention can save the plant.
We definitely cut out the softened part of the trunk to healthy tissue. Further actions depend on what is left of the palm tree.
If this is the top, the cut is dried, treated with a growth stimulator (according to the instructions) and tried to root. This can be done in water or in a light substrate of peat and perlite.
Living root with part of the trunk? Wonderful! Treat the cut with activated or crushed charcoal and place in a bright, warm place. Apply Carbendazim fungicide solution to kill fungus in the soil. If everything is in order, the yucca will expel the shoots from the axillary buds.
Problems with roots
Often on forums you can “hear” the cry of the soul: “Yucca is dying, what to do?” Moreover, outwardly everything looks normal - no obvious diseases, no pests, but the plant is withering away. In such situations, the problem is most likely in the roots.
Root rot is a nightmare for succulents, which includes yucca. You can see it only when replanting the plant. Therefore, if you see that the plant is withering for no apparent reason, try to carefully remove it from the pot and inspect the roots. If they are dark and soft, it is root rot. Whether it will be possible to revive the yucca depends on the extent of the damage.
- If the roots have rotted completely, all that remains is to throw away the flower.
- Less than a third of diseased roots? Cut off anything suspicious and transplant the yucca into a new container with fresh substrate. After planting, water it with a fungicide solution and send the “sick” one to a warm and bright place.
- If more than half of the roots are damaged, but not all, you can try to save the plant. They need to be washed under the tap, and then all soft and darkened pieces should be cut off. Next, we plant, water with a fungicide solution, and place in the light. We are waiting for the result.
The reanimated plant should not be watered until you are sure that it has taken root and has begun to grow.
Yucca doesn't bloom
Some gardeners are concerned about the question of why yucca does not bloom; they even tend to attribute the problem to illness or improper maintenance. This is not entirely true.
The fact is that yucca almost never blooms in captivity. This is due to the fact that the conditions of its maintenance are far from the natural environment, the dormant period is relative, which means that the flower buds do not have time to ripen. And in natural conditions only adult “palm trees” bloom. Therefore, if the yucca is more than 10 years old and you provide it with peace in winter, there is a chance, although small, that it will throw out inflorescences with beautiful white bells.
Yucca has a void in its trunk
Question: When replanting the yucca (due to waterlogged soil), I discovered a large void on the trunk under the bark. A month or a little more has passed, and now the lower leaves are turning yellow and at the same time new healthy leaves are appearing.
Irina-gorsh: If new leaves grow healthy, it means it is not bending. If the conditions for the yucca are normal (in short: cool in winter, more light, including sunlight, and infrequent watering), everything should be fine. In the future, if you are flooded, do not immediately grab the transplant, especially in winter. Depending on the root system, it is enough to take a stick selected according to the width (the thinner the better) and pierce it to the base of the pot in many places. The soil will dry out quickly and will “breathe” within a day. It’s another matter if the root system has already begun to bend, and external signs of something “wrong” with the plant appear, then when replanting, remove the “dead” roots, without touching the “live” ones, and plant in another soil.
Question: I felt the trunk, well, it seems to be hard near the ground, but in those places where the buds have died, it’s not that soft, it’s as if it’s empty.
Berry: If the trunk is hard (even with an air gap) - not all is lost, the main thing is that there is no rot, that it is not soft. You need to provide it with good light and observe it.
Natali: The yucca bark becomes looser or dries out due to changes in humidity, in this case the soil. If the soil is always evenly moist, then swelling will never occur; the bark fits tightly to the core of the stem. In one case, the bark will swell, if the yucca is heavily flooded, there is rot underneath and the plant dies. In another case, the bark begins to peel off, but the soil has time to dry out, rot does not form or dries out, the trunk develops, but the void remains. There is always an alternative - cut off the tops and root, grow a new plant.
Pests and diseases
Among the pests that yucca is most often affected by are thrips , scale insects and spider mites .
Common diseases include anthracnose, yellow mottle (viral) and stem rot.
ANTHracnose
With this disease, small spots with convex brown edges and a yellow edging are visible on yucca leaves. The spots appear in a chaotic order and gradually merge into larger formations.
Control measures: stop spraying leaves and reduce indoor air humidity. Remove severely affected leaves and, if necessary, treat the palm tree with special preparations.
YELLOW MOCK (VIRAL)
The disease is manifested by the appearance of yellow specks on the leaves of the flower, especially at the tips of the leaves, most often due to aphids.
Control measures: check your home collection for aphids. Affected specimens are destroyed.
STEM ROT
This disease is caused by a fungus or bacteria that grows rapidly and makes the plant's leaves drooping, pale and soft. It appears most often due to excess moisture in the soil and poor ventilation of the room, sometimes due to hypothermia (moving the palm tree outside in winter).
Control measures: if a small part of the yucca is damaged, the affected areas must be removed. If most of it is affected, then gardeners recommend getting rid of the palm tree and pot in order to protect the rest of the indoor plants.
Yucca - reproduction
Question: My yucca is dying from waterlogging of the soil, I’m trying to propagate it: I rooted two offspring in a pot (without roots), covered it with polyethylene. I don’t know if it’s possible to make cuttings from the trunk and also root them?
Anna: Just put the cutting (cut off top) in a jar of water. Do not pour a lot of water so that the trunk is covered by no more than 1 cm, so as not to rot, and add water periodically (it evaporates). In a week, the yucca will have roots. Wait until small lateral roots of about 3-4 cm grow and plant in the ground. The main thing is, don’t overfill it in the future. But in winter, yucca needs additional lighting to root!
Alice: Yucca propagates vegetatively quite easily, but only if it is light and warm, and the biorhythms of the plant are on the rise. Try not to simply prune yucca in autumn or winter; the best time for propagation is from late January to June. It is also possible in July, if there is no heat. If the temperature is above 27C, this is also not good; the cuttings will not have enough strength to absorb moisture when the leaves quickly evaporate. Therefore, if you cut a large branch of yucca for rooting, you need to tear off some of the leaves, leaving 4-5 at most.
Waterlogging of the soil
Also, do not allow the soil to become waterlogged and become stagnant in the pot. Yucca loves moderate watering, so any waterlogging can cause root rot, which is very difficult to combat.
In the early stages of the disease, it will help to add new soil after cutting off all diseased roots and treating the sections with activated carbon.
If the rotting has spread to the trunk of the plant, you can root the upper part of the palm tree or take cuttings from healthy branches.
Waterlogging of yucca soil at low temperatures is especially dangerous.
.
When at rest, the plant consumes almost no water; it needs to be watered very lightly so that the soil remains slightly moist. During this period, even a single abundant watering leads to root rot.
In summer, watering yucca with cold water can lead to the onset of disease. To prevent this from happening, you need to water only with water whose temperature is 2-3 degrees higher than the room temperature.
How to save yucca
Question: I flooded the yucca and it began to rot. How can you save what is left?
Veta: If the roots are rotten, then just try to re-root the top.
Freya: In any case, immediately remove it from the pot! If there is at least something left of the roots, cut off all the rotten ones, sprinkle the living remains with charcoal, dry them, plant them in suitable soil, and drain them well. The soil for planting is dry, do not water immediately. On the second day, water (not too much) with water containing heteroauxin or zircon. Cover with a bag (only fix the bag on the stem, not the pot!) If the roots have all rotted, try to root the top, as mentioned above.
Question: Yucca leans heavily to the side, you have to prop it up with a stick. I thought the roots had rotted, but I don’t know. Moreover, its bark does not fit tightly around the trunk. But new leaves appear normally.
irina-bahus: If you don’t like the tilt at all, try tying it to a stick and gradually straightening it. But first, look at the barrel. It should be hard. You need to really water the yucca carefully, and under no circumstances overwater it. It's better to let it sit dry. It is not necessary to spray it. But if the soil is wet, you can remove it from the pot, dry the soil a little and put it back. At the same time you will see the roots.
Diseases and natural organic processes
Yucca is very sensitive, its leaves can begin to dry out due to a simple change in location and conditions, this is always stressful for the plant.
Agave does not tolerate transplantation well, during which the developed root system is almost always injured. Perhaps after some time the plant will cope with the damage on its own and begin to develop further, stopping shedding leaves, but experts still advise using fertilizing during the adaptation period.
Improper watering will also cause the leaves to dry out. The root system of yucca is weak; if the soil becomes waterlogged, the plant will begin to rot; watering with cold water can have a bad effect on its condition. For yucca, it is important to maintain normal temperature conditions; with sudden changes in air temperature, the leaves curl and turn yellow at the tips - this is the first sign that the tree needs to be relocated.
In summer, a comfortable temperature for yucca is no more than 25°C, and in winter no less than 10°C. It is necessary to reduce the temperature gradually, starting in the fall; if by winter the temperature is not lowered to the desired level, the leaves will begin to thin out, dry out, and over time may completely fall off.
We must not forget about proper watering: in summer it should be more frequent, but in winter you should not be particularly zealous, weekly irrigation is enough - otherwise the plant will rot.
Damage to leaves can also be caused by aphids or gray mold. As a rule, midges and rot are clearly visible in the root zone and at the base of the affected leaf. To combat diseases, you need to use household insecticides.
Do not forget that the falling of leaves is also a natural process for a plant, characteristic of the stage of its intensive growth; the falling of a small number of leaves in this case should not be a cause for concern.
Our grandmothers, growing garden strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, did not particularly worry about mulching. But today this agricultural technique has become fundamental in achieving high quality berries and reducing crop losses. Some might say it's a hassle. But practice shows that labor costs in this case pay off handsomely. In this article, we invite you to get acquainted with the nine best materials for mulching garden strawberries.
Succulents are very diverse. Despite the fact that “little ones” have always been considered more fashionable, it’s worth taking a closer look at the range of succulents with which you can decorate a modern interior. After all, colors, sizes, patterns, degree of prickliness, impact on the interior are just a few of the parameters by which you can choose them. In this article we will tell you about the five most fashionable succulents that amazingly transform modern interiors.
The Egyptians used mint as early as 1.5 thousand years BC. It has a strong aroma due to the high content of various essential oils, which are highly volatile. Today, mint is used in medicine, perfumery, cosmetology, winemaking, cooking, ornamental gardening, and the confectionery industry. In this article we will look at the most interesting varieties of mint, and also talk about the features of growing this plant in open ground.
People began growing crocuses 500 years before our era. Although the presence of these flowers in the garden is fleeting, we always look forward to the return of the harbingers of spring next year. Crocuses are one of the earliest primroses, whose flowering begins as soon as the snow melts. However, flowering times may vary depending on the species and varieties. This article is dedicated to the earliest varieties of crocuses, which bloom in late March and early April.
Cabbage soup made from early young cabbage in beef broth is hearty, aromatic and easy to prepare. In this recipe you will learn how to cook delicious beef broth and cook light cabbage soup with this broth. Early cabbage cooks quickly, so it is placed in the pan at the same time as other vegetables, unlike autumn cabbage, which takes a little longer to cook. Ready cabbage soup can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Real cabbage soup turns out tastier than freshly prepared cabbage soup.
Looking at the variety of tomato varieties, it’s hard not to get confused - the choice is very wide today. Even experienced gardeners are sometimes confused by it! However, understanding the basics of selecting varieties “for yourself” is not so difficult. The main thing is to delve into the peculiarities of the culture and start experimenting. One of the easiest groups of tomatoes to grow are varieties and hybrids with limited growth. They have always been valued by those gardeners who do not have much energy and time to care for their beds.
Once very popular under the name of indoor nettle, and then forgotten by everyone, coleus today is one of the most colorful garden and indoor plants. It is not for nothing that they are considered stars of the first magnitude for those who are primarily looking for non-standard colors. Easy to grow, but not so undemanding as to suit everyone, coleus require constant monitoring. But if you take care of them, bushes made of velvety unique leaves will easily outshine any competitor.
Salmon backbone baked in Provençal herbs provides tasty pieces of fish pulp for a light salad with fresh wild garlic leaves. The champignons are lightly fried in olive oil and then sprinkled with apple cider vinegar. These mushrooms are tastier than regular pickled ones, and they are better suited for baked fish. Wild garlic and fresh dill get along well in one salad, highlighting each other’s aroma. The garlicky pungency of wild garlic will permeate both the salmon flesh and mushroom pieces.
A coniferous tree or shrub on a site is always great, but a lot of conifers is even better. Emerald needles of various shades decorate the garden at any time of the year, and phytoncides and essential oils released by plants not only aromatize, but also make the air cleaner. As a rule, most zoned mature conifers are considered very unpretentious trees and shrubs. But young seedlings are much more capricious and require proper care and attention.
Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics under the canopy of flowering trees have long become an integral attribute of welcoming spring in the Land of the Rising Sun. The financial and academic year here begins on April 1, when the magnificent cherry blossoms bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese take place under the sign of their flowering. But sakura also grows well in cooler regions - certain species can be successfully grown even in Siberia.
I am very interested in analyzing how people's tastes and preferences for certain foods have changed over the centuries. What was once considered tasty and was an object of trade, lost its value over time and, conversely, new fruit crops conquered their markets. Quince has been cultivated for more than 4 thousand years! And even in the 1st century B.C. e. About 6 varieties of quince were known, and even then methods of its propagation and cultivation were described.
Delight your family and prepare themed cottage cheese cookies in the shape of Easter eggs! Your children will be happy to take part in the process - sift the flour, combine all the necessary ingredients, knead the dough and cut out intricate figures. Then they will watch with admiration as pieces of dough turn into real Easter eggs, and then with the same enthusiasm they will eat them with milk or tea. How to make such original cookies for Easter, read our step-by-step recipe!
Among tuberous crops, there are not so many decorative deciduous favorites. And caladium is a true star among the variegated inhabitants of interiors. Not everyone can decide to own a caladium. This plant is demanding, and first of all, it requires care. But still, rumors about the extraordinary capriciousness of caladiums are never justified. Attention and care can avoid any difficulties when growing caladiums. And the plant can almost always forgive small mistakes.
We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply easy-to-prepare dish for you today. This sauce is one hundred percent universal, as it goes with every side dish: vegetables, pasta, or anything. Chicken and mushroom gravy will save you in moments when you don’t have time or don’t want to think too much about what to cook. Take your favorite side dish (you can do this in advance so everything is hot), add some gravy and dinner is ready! A real lifesaver.
Among the many different varieties of these popular vegetables, we will tell you about three that are distinguished by their excellent taste and relatively unpretentious growing conditions. Characteristics of the eggplant varieties “Almaz”, “Black Beauty” and “Valentina”. All eggplants have medium-density pulp. In Almaz it is greenish, while in the other two it is yellowish-white. They are united by good germination and excellent yield, but at different times. Everyone's skin color and shape are different.
Yucca is a beautiful evergreen plant that is completely unpretentious in care and growing conditions, which every gardener can independently grow on their own plot. In order for this species to feel good and regularly delight with its flowering, you only need to follow some simple recommendations. Yucca is a perennial drought-resistant plant and does well in almost any soil.
The tips of the yucca leaves dry out
Question: The ends of the yucca leaves dry out, this is due to lack of moisture, right?
svPooPs: Dry ends - lack of moisture only if it is hotter than 26 degrees. Then you can and even need to spray once a day. But I spray mine much less often and she doesn’t complain. The main thing is not to flood it. Water once every 1.5-2 weeks to ensure the soil dries out. Dry leaves at the bottom are normal. But there are dry ends from overfeeding with fertilizers, if the soil has become alkaline (that is, hard water and fertilizers), and if the leaves hang over the battery, from which hot air comes.
Question: In a year and a half, my yucca has grown by only 1-2 leaves. And they write that it is a fast-growing plant, and some produce up to 2-3 new leaves per week! What am I doing wrong?
IrinaP: One of the reasons is the small pot. After purchasing a plant, have a good habit of not waiting too long to replant, a maximum of two weeks. Store soil is not the best soil for yucca; peat is very hygroscopic. Systematic waterlogging of yucca goes unnoticed for the time being, the plant simply fights with all its might to prevent the roots from rotting and the growth of an insufficiently powerful healthy root mass. Make up your soil: take garden soil (calcined in the oven), add coconut substrate and zeolite for looseness, about a fifth of the volume of the pot. Yucca needs to be watered once every 1-1.5 weeks (approximately).
Ferret: If the yucca sits in a small pot, it needs to be watered every day, but the soil should have time to dry out. These are in large pots and watered once a week. But there is no need to delay replanting; after purchasing, replant in a week! And feed after transplantation in 2-3 weeks. But don't overdo it.
irina-bahus: In general, it is believed that yucca loves free pots. In any case, its root system is very powerful. But another reason for the slow growth of yucca is lack of light. This is a southern plant; in addition to feeding from the pot, it needs good light.
Why yucca leaves turn yellow and dry: the reason and what to do
Yucca is a small palm-shaped indoor tree that is very easy to care for. However, no matter how hard gardeners try, no one is immune from mistakes in its cultivation, so it is better to determine in advance the possible causes of yellowing and drying in order to save the plant. So why do the leaves turn yellow and how to deal with it - read on.
Improper care or conditions
A significant proportion of problems with indoor plants is due to violation of the requirements for caring for them. Yucca is no exception to this rule, so before moving on to specific actions, evaluate the following possible causes.
Insufficient or excessive watering
The mentioned palm-shaped tree tends to accumulate moisture in its trunk, so it is not difficult to overwater the plant. On average, yucca is watered 1-2 times a week, and in winter even less often (the soil in the pot should dry out by about half its volume).
The liquid for irrigation must be at room temperature, and to avoid mistakes in this, simply leave it for several days in an open container. If there is a strong overflow, you will have to remove the plant from the pot and, after removing the rotten roots, transplant it into another container.
However, you should not place high hopes on the properties of the yucca trunk, because drying out for the root system is no less dangerous than its overmoistening and can also lead to yellowing of the leaves.
Low lighting or direct sunlight
A lack or, conversely, an excess of sunlight is another common cause of yellowing of the leaf blades of the “false palm”.
To ensure normal photosynthesis processes in conditions of limited natural light, you will have to install powerful sources of diffused light in the room, which will ensure daylight hours of at least 10 hours.
If the plant is burned due to very bright direct radiation, then move it to a more shaded place and evaluate the result of the changes after a week.
Dry air
This problem often appears in the cold season, when heating devices are turned on in the room. Yucca prefers slightly increased air humidity, so it is advisable to place it away from batteries or electrical appliances. You can place an open container of water next to the pot and periodically spray the leaves with a spray bottle.
This also applies to cases of growing false palm trees on closed balconies in the summer. In the warm season (especially when growing yucca on the balcony), it is advisable to spray the leaves only during the daytime, so that by the time the temperature drops at night they are completely dry. Otherwise, the development of rot or other ailments caused by high humidity cannot be ruled out.
Important! Yellowing and falling of false palm leaves does not always indicate a problem. Often this is a completely natural process, of course, if only the lower leaf plates fall off, and the upper ones do not change their condition and look completely healthy.
Unsuitable temperature
The optimal temperature values for the tree will be +20...+25°C in summer and not lower than +8...+10°C in the cold season. Yellowing of the leaves in this case is associated with a sharp transition from heat to cold, so to avoid such problems, simply soften temperature fluctuations during the off-season.
A gradual decrease in temperature in the room with the plant is possible already in the first autumn months, for which the pot is first taken to a cooler room, and then placed on the balcony. However, at very low temperatures, yucca leaves can curl, and their edges often turn brown.
In some situations, they not only turn yellow, but also fall off, so any change must be considered: both in the direction of lowering and increasing the temperature.
Drafts
The dark yellow color of the entire leaf blade or just its tips sometimes indicates exposure to drafts, especially in the cold season. With the arrival of autumn, try not to leave a pot of yucca on the open balcony, especially in the evening or at night.
Lack of minerals
During intensive growth, yucca is fed every month, adding mineral (for example, “Master” or “Biopon”) and organic nutritional compounds to the soil.
The prepared working solution is poured into a spray bottle and the inner parts of the leaves are sprayed with it, trying to treat as large an area as possible.
If this is not done, then the plant’s consumption of nutrients will be very high, which is often expressed in the yellowing or drying out of individual parts of the false palm tree.
Find out what and how to feed indoor plants at home.
The appearance of pests
Changes in the appearance of the plant can also be explained by pest activity. Among them, the most dangerous for yucca are spider mites, thrips and scale insects, each of which can cause yellowing and curling of the leaves. In order to promptly eliminate the problem and protect the plant from death, it is important to know about the first signs of insect infestation.
Spider mite
A favorable factor for the rapid reproduction of spider mites is an increase in temperature with a simultaneous decrease in air humidity. The pest gets onto yucca from other plants, and you can notice it by the characteristic light grains in the lower part of the leaf blades.
If an insect has been living on the yucca for a long time, then it is possible that a thin silvery web will appear, entwining not only the leaves, but also the place where the leaf is attached. Over time, the affected leaves lose their usual color and become covered with yellow, shapeless spots.
Among the folk remedies, garlic, tobacco and onion peels will help in the fight against the pest, the infusion of which should be rubbed on the surface of the leaf plate.
For additional treatment, you can use a soap solution, and in difficult cases, you can also spray the yucca with one of the popular insecticidal compounds: for example, Vertimek or Fitoverm. Treatment with their use is carried out at least three times, with an interval of 10 days.
Important! The spider mite is
doubly , because it not only sucks out all the juices from the plant, but can also be a carrier of gray rot and other flower ailments that become noticeable soon after it hits the yucca.
Thrips
Thrips are one of the most common pests of not only ornamental but also agricultural crops. The reason for its appearance is new, infected plants in the house, and the reproduction of insects is facilitated by dry air and reduced humidity in the room.
You can notice the new resident by the characteristic silvery pattern on the surface of the sheets, which consists of chaotic strokes.
This pest quickly sucks the juice out of the plant cells, and the females also gnaw through the internal passages in the leaves, which are those same silvery stripes. At temperatures of +16…+25°C, insects reproduce very quickly, doubling their numbers every 4–6 days.
Getting rid of thrips is not easy, but it is possible. In the initial stages of yucca damage, its leaves can be treated with a solution of laundry soap and covered with a plastic bag and left for 2-3 hours.
In some cases, treatment with mineral oils (a solution of 1 liter of water and a few drops of kerosene or machine oil) may help, but it is safer to spray the yucca with special chemicals: for example, Aktara, Iskra, Mospilan or Agravertin. Some of these compositions can be used not only for spraying, but also for watering at the root, which makes it possible to get rid of insects both on the plant and in the soil.
Yucca - leaves turn yellow
Question: Yucca leaves are turning yellow - at first the leaves began to lose color and became very light. They don’t dry out, don’t get wet - nothing, they grow as usual, only very light in the rosette. I haven’t changed the place - it’s been standing on the north window, without sunlight for five years now. And only now it is getting brighter.
Natali: There are two options:
- The first is the lack of light. At first the yucca was small, and there was enough lighting for the entire bush. Over the course of five years, she grew up, stretched out in height, and there was not enough lighting for her. The best way to confirm this is to move it to a bright place; the leaves darken and grow larger in just a week.
- Second - if the leaves lighten from the inside of the rosette, and with yellowness, perhaps it is being flooded - dig up the soil and try to determine the moisture content of the soil inside the pot; by the next watering it should be dry.
Leah: And my yucca turned yellow in the shade, it stood in the far corner of the room, and as soon as it was moved to the windowsill, the lightening stopped, and it turned green again. I have a south side, although the balcony is glazed, but it is still very bright, and all summer it stands on the balcony with light shading, growing and making me happy.
Question: The young leaves of the yucca turn yellow, first one, then it dries up, and then the whole shoot. I have it 2 meters from the window (in the summer on a glassed-in balcony), I water it as it dries out (every other day in the summer). I fertilize rarely, about once a month (Pokon green generator, I think). The pot is approximately 25 cm in diameter, the trunk is about a meter high. All the young shoots that were there when purchased have already fallen off. There was one left on the large trunk and one on the small one. But new little ones don't come out. When replanting in the spring, I discovered that the trunk was deeply buried in the ground (7-8 cm), I dug it up a little. Now she leans over and doesn't hold well in the potty. Maybe this is the case and we need to bury it back?
Freya: The southeast is good, but 2 meters from the window is a lot, there, without additional lighting, a rare plant will feel good, but yucca is clearly not one of them - it is not a “lower floor” plant that is content with that what falls to him. As a representative of rather arid regions, it is accustomed to growing in direct sunlight. To begin with, move it closer to the window, if not on the windowsill, then as close as possible! It may simply not “pull out” young shoots due to lack of nutrition, caused, of course, by a lack of light.
Natali: Yucca should be on the south window. It doesn’t have enough light, which is why the leaves turn yellow, but most likely you have not one reason, but two - also constant waterlogging. The trunk can be buried in the ground, but to prevent rotting, dig it out of the ground, and to prevent the trunk from tilting or falling, tie a support. One important point: yucca on healthy strong roots will never collapse or fall. If it is drooping, the roots are weak, they have been flooded, there are not enough of them. You can temporarily press the trunk with a couple of stones, but the main thing is to create conditions for the growth of new roots, which will support the trunk themselves.
Details
Natural causes of yellowing and falling leaves
The yellowness of the leaves is a physiological norm with the advent of a certain age of the plant. As leaves age, they lose turgor, change color and die over time. The plant needs to shed old foliage to grow new, young greenery. Old leaves only draw on the plant's resources and do not provide any decorative value.
Interesting! Yucca cannot shed its leaves on its own; the plates hang from the bottom of the trunk, having lost all their attractiveness. You can get rid of them by simply cutting them carefully with sharp scissors to the base. It is these cut remains that eventually form the trunk, which is confused with a palm tree. And this is one of the characteristics of the plant that does not need to be dealt with.
False palm trees are very sensitive to changes in pot and soil. It will take some time to acclimatize. For quick and successful adaptation, the yucca must be placed in favorable conditions, the main criterion of which is the absence of drafts and a temperature above 22 °C degrees Celsius.
Lighting - required level
The intensity and duration of lighting play a big role in the proper development of a houseplant. He will need at least 10 hours of daylight at any time of the year. If the indicators are insufficient, platinum sheets begin to lose their natural color, they stretch out and become less dense. If you react in time, the leaves will return their color when conditions change for the better.
The problem can be solved by installing a fluorescent lamp and lengthening the daylight hours. Additional lighting is especially important in the autumn-winter period, when it begins to get dark earlier.
Along with a lack of light, its excess will also be destructive. More precisely, in this case, intensity affects the appearance. The surface of the leaves is burned under the influence of direct sunlight. Such damage spoils the appearance of the sheet and is not restored. The process of photosynthesis stops and the leaf simply dries out over time.
Interesting! Under natural conditions, the sun's rays do not harm yucca as much as in indoor conditions. This is due to the greater hardiness of the outdoor plant.
Watering quality for decorative yucca
Indoor yucca responds well to moderate watering. Any extremes can lead to a complete loss of decorativeness and death of the plant. With a lack of liquid, the leaves lose their elasticity, wither, then turn yellow and die. A characteristic sign of insufficient watering is the leaves curling into a tube.
The thickened trunk has the ability to accumulate liquid; the dense surface of the leaves prevents it from evaporating. However, these measures are not enough to maintain water balance for a long time.
In summer, yucca should be watered after half of the substrate has dried. To do this, you will need water at room temperature, after applying filters or settling. The root system can be severely damaged if watered directly from the tap. It has a colder temperature and contains chlorine.
Watering is carried out more often in summer; in winter, 1-2 applications of water per month are sufficient. In winter, yucca begins a dormant period, so waterlogging can quickly lead to rotting of the root system. This disease can be identified at the very beginning by the appearance of dark spots at the base of the leaf blades.
Important! At the end of the lesion, it is difficult to save the plant, but in the initial stages it can be replanted by removing the damaged parts and treating it with an antifungal agent. After transplanting, it is important to adjust the watering regime and the amount of liquid applied.
Problems due to violation of the feeding schedule
If a problem with the yucca crown is detected, all care activities are analyzed. If lighting and watering are normal, you should pay attention to fertilizer.
The crop needs a sufficient supply of nutrition, especially during the active growing season, otherwise growth and development are suspended. There may be a lack of nutrition due to a long absence of transplants, when the roots fill the entire space of the pot and have nowhere to receive nutrients.
It is important to understand which microelement is deficient. In the spring, fresh nutrient soil is used for replanting, and then additional fertilizing is applied.
If you determine what exactly the shortage is, you can water or spray the soil with the necessary composition. It is better to use any fertilizer complexes only according to the instructions, following the specified schedule. In this case, it is unlikely that any shortages will arise.
First signs of deficiency:
- lack of nitrogen is manifested by the smallness of young leaves and their faded color;
- Iron deficiency causes the middle row of mature leaves to turn yellow straight from the trunk;
- a lack of magnesium and iron is noticeable by darkening of the veins;
- A lack of phosphorus leads to dark edges and spots on the leaf blades.
Having understood why the leaves lose their attractiveness, it must be solved in a short time.
Rolling yucca leaves
There are many reasons why yucca leaves darken and curl, but often this indicates freezing of the root system. Perhaps the temperature in the room dropped to +5 0C for some time, or it became hypothermic during transportation after purchase or moving. In this case, if the effect of temperature was short-lived, the plant will recover, and the leaves will simply have to be cut off.
Interesting! If the leaf blade curls and does not darken, this indicates dry soil and insufficient watering. If this happens in winter, it is better to move the pot further away from the radiators; in summer, remove it from the sun. Next, water the yucca and monitor the condition of the soil.
Shedding of leaves - causes
The ornamental palm tree rarely sheds its leaves, even when they die completely. If all maintenance conditions are met, the yucca will remain green and beautiful.
If problems exist, you need to understand the reason:
- Perhaps this is stress associated with changing the growing location. Immediately after purchase, the plant must be given time to adapt. After this, planting should be done in a new pot of suitable size. According to the parameters, it will be 3 cm larger than the previous one; drainage must be laid out at the bottom, and then soil for yucca or cacti.
- Stress can cause root damage if replanted carelessly. In this case, the plant will soon recover and grow new roots. To improve the situation, you can use the stimulator strictly according to the instructions.
- Excess moisture does not just lead to the shedding of leaves, because this will already be the last stage of rotting of the root system. The palm tree must be replanted and all rotten parts of the root must be removed. Large sections are treated with charcoal.
If the leaves on the yucca have fallen, this may be due to high temperatures and lack of lighting in winter. The situation is being corrected by optimizing conditions.
How to water yucca
Question: The yucca leaves have turned light green and are drooping and withering. Stands on the floor near the balcony on the south side. I spray 3-4 times a week, I water rarely, because... I'm afraid to fill it again, about once every 2 weeks. I recently fed it. The trunk is solid.
Natali: There is a catastrophic lack of light, if you don’t move it to a sunnier place, it will die like a freak. Watering may be too infrequent.
irina-bahus: Is watering once every two weeks not enough? It is better to navigate not by the number of days, but by the condition of the earth. I water when the soil on top dries out (well, at least once a week). You can also measure the acidity of the soil - suddenly it is sour, sometimes the leaves become lighter, indicating that it is necessary to spray with iron chelate. And one more thing: there is usually a draft under the balcony door, maybe put it on the windowsill for now?
Natali: To resolve the debate - to water a lot or a little, I will say right away that it depends primarily on the density, porosity and moisture capacity of the soil, as well as on whether there is a lot of free soil or roots in the pot. You need to adapt to your microclimate in the apartment and the ability of “your” soil to absorb and evaporate water. Even if two plants were planted in the ground from the same bag, the watering would still be different. Some people have a larger pot or drainage holes, others have a higher temperature in the room, more leaf mass (evaporating surface), etc.
If the roots occupy more space in the pot than the free soil, then you need to water more abundantly than if the roots occupy only a small space in the pot. And of course, for plants that do not tolerate overwatering, the soil should be checked not from above, but in the depths of the pot. Just to the depth of a finger – i.e. approximately 10-12 cm, if it is wet, do not water! Since this is technically difficult to do, I suggest determining by the weight of the pot - just remember how much it weighs approximately when the soil inside is dry.
And you also need to distinguish dying leaves:
- if they just wilt, it’s most likely due to waterlogging,
- if they curl lengthwise like a tube, then there is either not enough moisture or light.
Yucca easily tolerates fairly dry air, but will get sick if it does not have enough light. Never spare light for it - feel free to place additional lamps in the fall and winter, and in the summer on the south window. When lighting decreases in the fall, the need for watering is also sharply reduced. Everything is so subtly connected that experience comes not over months, but over years. Forget about fertilizers altogether if you are new to floriculture, just replant annually. There are as many holes at the bottom of the pot as possible, drainage of at least 2 cm. Measuring acidity will most likely not give you anything, since yucca is not as demanding of it as, for example, gardenia or azaleas, and the soil composition for palm trees is quite suitable in composition. But there is no need to allow the formation of salt deposits on the soil surface.
Soil drying out
In winter, when the yucca is at rest, complete drying out of the earthen coma will not harm the plant. But in the summer, when the palm tree is growing intensively, the soil in the yucca pot should not dry out to a depth of more than 5 cm
.
However, inexperienced gardeners who know the dangers of waterlogging can water their plants very rarely. At the same time, the soil regularly dries out, which affects the appearance of the plant: the leaves dry out and turn yellow, starting from the bottom, and then fall off.
It should be remembered that yucca is not a cactus that is not afraid of the soil drying out. Its roots are different from the root system of succulents. Frequent drying out of the soil can be detrimental to the plant.
.
Yucca from the store, what to do next
Question: 2 months ago they gave me a yucca, I was afraid to replant it in winter. The leaves began to turn yellow, and not the lower ones, but as necessary. They turn yellow and then dry out. Recently transplanted. The root system was good, not flooded, not overdried, only the roots were intertwined: it was cramped for him. What with her?
Elena: Yucca is very light-loving and the leaves may turn yellow due to lack of light. Therefore, after purchase, the yucca should be placed in a permanent place on a sunny windowsill, but the first two weeks should be given for adaptation: do not replant and shade it from the hot sun at noon. When the yucca adapts to your microclimate (combination of temperature, air humidity, lighting), you need to transfer it (without disturbing the roots) into a larger pot, always with drainage at the bottom. And again leave it alone for a month and a half, only then can you start feeding. All this time, keep an eye on the plant; after all, you can bring pests and diseases from the store. If there are any stains, pour phytosporin several times. While it is still adapting, you can spray it with stimulants and growth regulators.
irina-bahus: This could be an adaptation. Young yucca leaves are always more light green than old ones; they then turn dark green. Now, when there is little light, it is better to place it on the windowsill, in the most illuminated place. And water less often, and it’s also good to loosen the soil so that the roots have air. And, of course, two days is not enough time to draw conclusions; we need to observe. By the way, those sheets that have begun to turn yellow will still dry out, so you don’t have to react so sharply to this.
Diseases and treatment
They are mainly associated with non-compliance with the watering regime
Yucca
Watering in winter during the dormant period has an extremely detrimental effect. Excessive dryness of the room also contributes to weakening of the plant.
Why does the palm tree turn yellow and the leaves and their tips fall off?
Why do yucca leaves droop? What should you do if, indoors, the lower leaves turn yellow, dry out and fall off? When a plant begins to turn yellow, this does not mean that the reason lies in the disease.
This may be due to a natural process
ridding a false palm tree of foliage. This is necessary for further active growth.
In the case when it is the lower foliage that is shed, this may mean that there is excessive or insufficient moisture.
. Find out the recommendations on how to properly water a false palm tree and correct the situation.
Well, if the roots were not damaged, then there is a better chance of resuscitating the yucca.
Brown spots on leaves
If, when the leaves fall, there are yellow spots on them
, which then become oval in shape and change color to brown, this means that the plant is affected by brown spotting.
To cure it, you need to figure out whether you cared for the yucca correctly, and then treat it.
