Rhododendron in the Moscow region. Planting and care, photos of varieties, reviews

Frost-resistant varieties of rhododendrons - a selection of the best varieties with descriptions and photos

The majesty and nobility of rhododendrons has been known since ancient times. Luxurious bushes perfectly decorate the garden and add zest to its appearance. But when choosing a variety to grow in your own garden, you need to determine its frost resistance. Thanks to the enormous selection and availability of hybrids, the gardener has the opportunity to give preference to a variety that corresponds to the climatic characteristics of the region. Types of rhododendrons (pictured below) are also selected according to the individual capabilities of the gardener.

Variety of species

When choosing varieties, a gardener should understand what frost resistance is. Professionals define frost resistance by the ability of a plant to tolerate all the factors of winter: frost, wind, snowfall, icing, thaws.

The components of frost resistance are:

• The ability of plants to withstand early frosts, which are very common in autumn, without shelter.
• The maximum indicators at which the plant can tolerate low temperatures.
• Painless withstanding of a thaw, during which awakening is observed, with further freezing.
• Resistance to damping off of the root system under a warm shelter or snow cover.

The varietal selection includes more than 20 varieties of flowering shrubs that survive the winter well. All rhododendrons, the varieties of which are grown regardless of the climatic characteristics of the region, are divided into:

• Deciduous, which shed their green crown cover in autumn.
• Evergreens that do not stop developing even in extreme cold.
• Semi-evergreen with a dormant period.
• Hybrid, resulting from crossing different varieties.

Rhododendrons with a height of 1.5 meters and above

Rhododendron variety Roseum Elegans

This variety grows in height from 1.5 to 3 meters, depending on care conditions. It can also be grown as a tub plant, installed at the entrances to hotels, shopping centers, on city streets, in courtyards, at the entrance to the house. Not afraid of cold weather, can withstand - 32 °C. In spring it will delight you with lush flowering for three weeks, from May to early June.

The flowers of Roseum Elegans are soft lilac with dark red splashes inside. The inflorescence contains 15-20 flowers. The diameter of the bell-shaped flowers is 7 cm.

Frost-resistant varieties of rhododendrons with photos

• Evergreen shrubs - Smirnova (the bush grows up to 1.5 meters, blooms with pink buds with yellow dots in mid-April, frost resistance - 30 degrees), Short-fruited (bush up to 2.5 meters high with white flowers, frost resistance -25 degrees), Zolotisny ( A variety for Siberia that can easily survive frosts of more than 40 degrees. It blooms with white inflorescences-umbrellas), Katevbinsky (a shrub up to 1.5 m high with purple blooms.).

• Deciduous varieties - Canadian (spherical bush measuring 1x1 m. Natural habitat - North America), Kamchatka (low-growing bush 40-50 cm high. Rich red inflorescences appear in late spring), Caucasian (outwardly similar to a branched tree up to 4- x meters. Blooms in May with small yellow inflorescences), Japanese, Schlippenbach, Pukhkansky, Vazeya.

The most frost-resistant rhododendrons, which can withstand frosts of more than 30 degrees, are Katevbinsky, Helliki, Kamchatka, Zhelty, Karolinsky. The varieties Bluretti, Bershtein, and Molton Gold can withstand minor frosts.

Professionals recommend growing varieties of rhododendrons that have undergone a period of acclimatization in a certain climatic zone. When buying planting material of foreign selection, you should be extremely careful, remembering that winters in Europe are much milder, which means the shrub will be more vulnerable to frost and icy winds.

Rhododendron pruning

Since the exotic bush forms a regular crown, it practically does not require pruning. It is carried out to sanitize and rejuvenate the tree. In early spring, before sap flow begins, shoots damaged during the winter are cut out. Branches more than 2-3 cm thick will require treatment with garden varnish. The composition will not allow infection to enter through an open wound. For rejuvenation, half of the shoots are cut off at a height of 40 cm. The second half is removed the next season. Corrective pruning, the purpose of which is to make the crown more compact, is carried out after flowering.

Varieties for different climate zones

The rhododendron plant, the description of which provides an opportunity to study the characteristics of domestic selection, can be cultivated in all regions of the country. Professional gardeners recommend planting group flower beds with an early flowering period.

Any varieties that are resistant to diseases and pests are suitable for average climatic regions. You can choose varieties of American selection that can withstand heat and frost. Aurora, Laika, Dagmar - representatives of the Smirnova variety are grown throughout the country. The varieties Album Novum and Lumina are characterized as frost-resistant, but in places where the winter has little snow and cold, they require shelter during the cold period.

In urban growing conditions, preference is given to varieties Mandarin Lights, Lemon Lights, Golden Ligths and hybrids Feuerwerk and Fireball, Cecile, Golden Sunset, Persil, Oxydol.

Ledebura

Semi-evergreen, heavily leafed shrub with a height of 50 cm to 2 m. The leaves are elliptical in shape, up to 2.7 cm long, up to 1.3 cm wide. The color gradually changes from olive green to rusty brown. They remain on the plant all winter and fall off only as new leaves grow. The color of the flowers is pink-violet.

The first flowering occurs after 4 years, in early May. In the Moscow region, flowering is abundant and annual. The average flowering time is 3 weeks, sometimes extending to a month. Flowering often repeats in the fall.

This variety can withstand winter temperatures down to -32 C.

Winter-hardy varieties

Frost-resistant rhododendrons are very popular among beginners, because they only require shelter for the winter period and tolerate not only low temperatures, but also sudden changes.

Deciduous hybrids Ghent, Weston, Exbury winter well at 20-29 degrees below zero. The deciduous group Northern Light with pink flowering tolerates temperatures of minus 35 degrees. Spicy Lights and Golden Lights are grown at 35-39 degrees, and Rosy Lights, Pink Lights and Orhid Lights are grown at 42 degrees below zero.

Rhododendron is evergreen, varieties of which can be grown in regions with harsh winters:

Marcel Menard is a shrub with purple flowers in spring. Frost resistance up to 24 degrees.

Brazil is a shrub up to 1.5 m high with rich green leaf blades and orange-yellow flowers. Excellent winter hardiness at -25 degrees.

Erato is a bush up to 1.5 m high with bright red flowers. Frost resistance – 26-28 degrees.

Lita is a plant up to 2.5 m high with wide dark green leaf blades and purple-pink buds. At a frost of 35 degrees it develops stably.

Alfred is a compact shrub about 1 m high. Large purple-red buds adorn the plant in late spring or early summer. It survives short-term frosts down to -26.

Libretto is a winter-hardy shrub slightly more than 1 m high. It blooms with crimson-violet flowers in spring. Withstands frosts up to 26 degrees.

For successful cultivation, you should not only choose a frost-resistant variety, but also provide it with proper care:

• Determining the time of planting a seedling. Instances with an open root system are planted in a permanent place in March. Container plants can be replanted at any time during the active growing season.
• Rhododendron is a water-drinker and this must be remembered. 20 liters of soft water are poured under an adult bush.
• Adding nutrients. They use only special complexes for rhododendrons, which can be bought at the garden center.
• Mulching the soil surface and covering for the winter.

The winter hardiness of varieties is also affected by the composition of the soil - rhododendrons are planted only in acidic soils. You should not plant seedlings in open areas: evergreen and deciduous varieties are equally afraid of drafts and strong gusts of wind. Varieties that do not shed leaves are cultivated in partial shade; deciduous varieties require diffused light.

By choosing a suitable variety and providing it with proper care, you can get flowering already in the 2-3rd year of cultivation. Many gardeners deny themselves the pleasure of growing rhododendrons, considering them capricious plants. They do require some knowledge and a little attention. But they thank you for your care with gorgeous blooms of various colors.

Description

Grows as evergreen and deciduous shrubs.
Growth rate – slow or average. Hybrid rhododendrons bloom magnificently and have a horizontal, spherical and vertical crown shape. Hybrid varieties of rhododendrons can be cup-shaped, bell-shaped, and the flowers can be tubular or flat. Flowers vary in size. Blooms with bright flowers. Various colors:

• motley with spots;
• white;
• orange;
• red;
• pink.

It grows very compactly. Fragile, thin shoots are very branched, densely spaced, and require constant pruning. The root is fragile and superficial. The leaves can be small and medium - up to 5 cm. The leaves are glossy, dense, slightly oblong, lanceolate. They have a rich dark green color. Deciduous varieties change the color of the leaves, becoming bright red and orange in the fall.

The best varieties of rhododendrons for growing in the Moscow region

Rhododendron is a luxurious decoration for a garden plot. Flower growers love these plants no less than roses and peonies, but are often afraid to grow them, since there is an opinion that rhododendrons are heat-loving and cannot tolerate winters near Moscow. However, many varieties of rhododendrons winter well in the Moscow region in open ground conditions. Winter-hardy varieties do not freeze, are not afraid of pests and diseases, and tolerate slight shading. Among them there are shrubs with inflorescences of various colors and sizes, with a pronounced and subtle aroma. Caring for them is available to everyone.

Luxurious plants

Rhododendrons are among the most popular and beloved types of flowering shrubs. They are trees or shrubs and can decorate even the most abandoned garden. There are more than 800 species and subspecies of these aromatic plants. Among them there are ideal options for creating a unique design of a recreation area. Many gardeners in our country believe that growing rhododendron in their garden is not easy. In fact, we need to make the right choice of varieties that tolerate our winters well and can delight the eye with their bright, abundant color every spring.

Rhododendrons were first brought to European countries 160 years ago from South Asia. During this time, evergreen shrubs became very popular. Breeders have developed many new varieties, distinguished by a wide variety of shapes and sizes of bushes, and color. These include heat-loving plants, but, unfortunately, they quickly die after harsh winters.

To avoid the death of the bush, it is necessary to select frost-resistant varieties of evergreen and deciduous species that can easily withstand low temperatures down to -35 ° C. Unlike heat-loving hybrid plants, they are easy to care for, observing all agrotechnical rules for this crop.

Types for the Moscow region

The range of rhododendrons for the middle zone is quite large. Central Russia is suitable for approximately 40 species of these plants.

Any gardener who wants to decorate a plot in the Moscow region with rhododendrons has the opportunity to satisfy their needs. Evergreen, semi-evergreen and deciduous species can be grown in this climate.

• Evergreens: Katevbinsky, Smirnova, Short-fruited, Largest, Golden.
• Semi-evergreens: Lemura, Sikhotinsky.
• Deciduous: Japanese, Yellow, Canadian, Kamchatka, Pukhansky.

Varieties of species rhododendrons

Varietal rhododendrons first appeared in Russia in 1994, when 18 varieties were brought from Germany to the country's Main Botanical Garden. All plants took root, grew well and bloomed in the new conditions. Based on this experience, botanical garden specialists recommend the following cultivars to lovers:

• Annemarie - bush height up to 50 cm, diameter up to 60 cm. The leaves are small, covered with snow in the fall. The color of the plates is dark green and gray-green. In Moscow it blooms from mid-summer to the end of October. The most abundant flowering occurs in September. The flowers are double, the length of the inflorescence is up to 20 cm. The buds are purple in color, the flowers are dark pink.
• Allegro is an evergreen plant up to 50 cm high, up to 50 cm in diameter. The leaf blades are dark. Blooms profusely from early August to early October. The flowers are double, bright red, collected in inflorescences up to 30 cm long.
• Long White is a tall variety, plant height up to 70 cm. The bush is spherical, the leaves are small and bright. The flowers are snow-white, non-double, arranged in racemes up to 30 cm long. This variety blooms from late summer to November, so it is suitable for creating winter bouquets.
• Boskop is a ground cover rhododendron up to 40 cm high with spectacular green and orange-red leaves. The flowers are single, the inflorescence length is up to 10 cm. The color of the petals is light lilac. The variety blooms from late summer to November.
• Silver Knight is a cushion-shaped plant up to 30 cm high, up to 40 cm in diameter. The leaves are light gray, turning purple in autumn. The flowers are lilac, non-double, with red stamens that stand out brightly against the background of the petals. It blooms from August to mid-autumn, sometimes until the first snow.

Most varieties of European selection with red flowers turned out to be unsuitable for cultivation in the Moscow region, since they were bred using a heat-loving species - the Himalayan tree rhododendron.

Plants from Finland

In Finland, varieties based on short-fruited rhododendron have been bred. All of them are very promising for the Moscow region.

Table: varieties of Finnish selection:

Name

Description

Bush height 1 m, flower color white

Bush height 0.6 m, flower color red

Bush height 2.0 m, dark pink flowers, blooms in mid-June

Bush height 1.5 m, pink-purple flowers

Bush height 2.0 m, white flowers

Bush height 1.0 m, flowers white and pink

Bush height 2.0 m, white flowers

Promising interspecific hybrids

In addition to species plants, there are interspecific hybrids. They are particularly frost-resistant and resilient. Thus, hybrids bred with the participation of Smirnov and Caucasian rhododendron can withstand frosts down to minus 26. The height of the plants reaches a height of 1 m. The most common:

Hybrids of Katevbinsky rhododendron are the most cold-resistant, withstanding frosts down to minus 32. All of them bloom in early summer with red, purple, lilac or white flowers. Popular varieties:

• Alfred;
• Burso;
• Catawbens Grandiflomm;
• Abraham Lincoln;
• New land;
• Roseum Elegance.

Of the deciduous rhododendrons, the hybrids from the Northern Lights group, bred in the middle of the last century in Minnesota (USA), are distinguished by the greatest frost resistance. The plants can withstand frosts down to minus 42. Rhododendrons Costerianum and Prinophyllum were involved in their breeding.

• Rosie Lights;
• Pink Lights;
• Golden Lights;
• Orchid Lights;
• Spicy Lights;
• Mandarin Lights;
• Nozem Hi Lights;
• Three lights.

RHODODENDRON or AZALEA, VARIETIES AND NATURAL WINTER-HARDY SPECIES

“Rhododendron Ketevba” PHOTO: www.flowers.cveti-sadi.ru
RHODODENDRON, or AZALEA - Decorative flowering deciduous or evergreen shrubs, less often semi-evergreen, i.e. Not all leaves are shed for the winter. Azaleas are usually called indoor plants, and Rhododendrons are called garden plants. Rhododendron leaves and flowers vary greatly in shape and color depending on the species. Flowers are often in umbellate or corymbose inflorescences. The colors of different species vary greatly, from pure white to all shades of pink and lilac, as well as yellow.

PHOTO: www.fotki.yandex.ru

The passion for Rhododendrons in Russia began quite recently, with the advent of planting material from Europe. But the climate of the Southern Urals is unsuitable for most species and varieties, and it cannot be called completely suitable for almost any species. The frost resistance and winter hardiness of Rhododendrons is insufficient for our region, although there are species that can and should be grown here, adapting to the requirements of these truly beautiful Shrubs. First, we will talk about the most popular species and varieties, and then we will provide data on natural species. Most often, modern hybrid Rhododendrons .

You can learn how to properly prune Ornamental and Fruit Shrubs so that they bloom and bear fruit better HERE .

All Rhododendrons can be roughly divided into 3 groups, depending on how much their foliage falls: evergreen, semi-evergreen and deciduous. Among evergreens, two groups can also be distinguished. The first includes ground or garden species. In these species, the leaves turn slightly brown for the winter and curl downward into a tube, and in the spring they turn green again and unfold. If they are sunburned or frozen, they may turn brown and fall off completely, so for the winter it is advisable to cover them on top with burlap and open them gradually in the spring, accustoming them to the sun. These species include Rhododendrons Caucasian, Ketevbinsky, Smirnova, Pontic and others. Evergreens also include domestic Indian Azaleas, which can only grow indoors, because... completely winter-resistant.

Semi-deciduous species, such as Daurian, do not shed all their foliage for the winter, but do not need shelter.

Completely deciduous species include species such as yellow rhododendron, Japanese, Canadian and Chinese. They completely shed all their foliage, so they winter better and are more suitable for our climate.

Some Rhododendrons are even given their own names, for example, on Vancouver Island there is the famous Rhododendron, which is more than 100 years old - “Cynthia” . This is a huge and strikingly beautiful tree, completely covered with crimson flowers.

The most popular types and varieties of Rhododendrons:

RHODODENDRON CAUCASIAN:

One of the most common species in our country, having a large number of different garden forms. This species comes from the Caucasus Mountains, where it grows wild below the glaciers, in a rather harsh climate and is therefore quite winter-hardy and frost-resistant. The original form has evergreen, leathery, oblong-lanceolate, pointed leaves with downward-curved edges. It grows as a low and often creeping shrub no more than half a meter high, sometimes reaching 1 m, with inflorescences of fairly large bell-shaped flowers of white or yellowish color. Flowers appear in early summer and bloom for a long time. Flowers with a weak aroma. Winter-hardy.

It has decorative forms with a wide variety of flower colors with light pink and dark pink flowers, with bright yellow and straw yellow flowers. All forms and original appearance have green spots on the inside of the petals, the peduncle and ovary are pubescent. Only the straw-yellow form has spots closer to orange.

Among the famous varieties one can name the Caucasian Rhododendron variety “Cunningham’s White” - with snow-white flowers.

RHODODENDRON DAURIAN (Ledum), OR MARAL:

Strongly branched, medium-sized, evergreen shrub up to 2 - 4 m tall. The branches are directed upwards. The leaves are medium-sized, 2 - 3 cm, oval. Some leaves do not fall off (overwinter). Blooms before the leaves bloom. The flowers are funnel-shaped, large, up to 4 cm, abundant, pink-violet, 1 - 3 at the ends of the shoots. Flowering lasts up to three weeks. In autumn, secondary flowering can often be observed. It grows slowly. The main advantage of the main type is its high winter hardiness. Prefers sunny edges and slopes. Rhododendron Daurian and some other species are often called Ledum, but this is incorrect. Ledum is a completely different plant, which you can read about on our website here.

It has an evergreen (dark green) form - with dark green, non-falling leaves, and darker, purple-violet flowers, as well as Garden Hybrid Rhododendron Daurian Early - a low-growing, evergreen, very ornamental shrub with abundant, large up to 5 cm in diameter , bright, bluish-carmine flowers, blooming very early (at the same time as crocuses and snowdrops). Much more spectacular than Rhododendron Dahurian, but less winter-hardy. When cultivated, it requires a sheltered location and protection from winter sun.

RHODODENDRON ADAMS OR fragrant:

A low shrub with wintering leathery leaves and medium-sized soft pink flowers collected in an inflorescence, very fragrant. The smell is reminiscent of strawberries, and it also persists in dried flowers. It grows wild in mountainous areas in Eastern Siberia and the Far East. It is a medicinal plant. Prefers a semi-shaded location and turfy slopes. This species is often called fragrant wild rosemary , which is also incorrect. Popular names - “White Wing” or “Sagan Daylya” are found among the peoples living in the places where this species of Rhododendron grows.

RHODODENDRON YELLOW:

Refers to deciduous Rhododendrons. And although it grows naturally in the south of Russia, in the Caucasus in the highlands and marshy areas of Belarus and Ukraine, it is a fairly winter-hardy species and can be grown in our region. The height of the plant reaches 2 m or more. The leaves are large, elliptical, and turn bright crimson in autumn. The flowers are bright yellow, collected in a round inflorescence, fragrant. Prefer moisture-absorbing acidic soils on sunny slopes. Decorative throughout the season.

RHODODENDRON KETEVBA OR KATEVBINSKY:

One of the most popular and frequently sold species. Evergreen Shrub 2 - 4 m tall with oblong, leathery leaves up to 15 cm long, dark green above and bluish below. The flowers are large, up to 15 cm in diameter, lilac-purple, with a wide bell-shaped corolla, very colorful during flowering. Shade-tolerant, also grows well in sunny places. Prefers soils that are rich, well-drained, acidic or slightly acidic. One of the most winter-hardy evergreen rhododendrons. Winter hardiness is considered complete, but according to the observations of gardeners in the Southern Urals, it gradually freezes over the years, despite the shelter, and does not bloom.

RHODODENDRON YAKUSHIMAN OR YAKUSHIMAN:

This evergreen ornamental species grows wild in Japan. The leaves are large, oblong, elliptical, leathery. The flowers are large pink, then bloom to white in the sun, collected in an inflorescence. Flowering is very early, in May-June, long lasting. The height of the plant does not exceed 1 - 1.5 m in adulthood, growing very slowly, expanding in breadth, forming a spherical bush. It is considered quite winter-hardy, but there is no data for the Urals. It has varieties and hybrids: the Rhododendoron yakushiman variety with bright pink flowers “Fantastic” , a hybrid with soft peach-colored flowers with a yellow center “Percy Wiseman” , a hybrid with white flowers with a corrugated edge, a bright red border and a yellow the middle “Ken Janeck” , a hybrid with soft yellow very large flowers “Incarho Flava” , a hybrid with bright pink large flowers “Polaris” and others.

RHODODENDRON GOLDEN:

Evergreen shrub often reaches one meter in height. Blooms in spring or early summer. So named for its light yellow, seemingly golden, medium-sized flowers, only up to 3 cm in d, collected in inflorescences. It grows in height very slowly - a few cm per year. Prefers moisture-intensive fertile soils, preferably peaty ones, but can also grow on rocky, acidic soils. It is considered completely winter-hardy, but there is no data for the Urals.

The most popular and winter-hardy natural species of Rhododendron:

Next, we will get acquainted with the most resistant wild species , which were tested at the State Botanical Garden of the Russian Academy of Sciences in St. Petersburg and received a winter hardiness level of at least I and II, i.e. - do not freeze or are partially frozen. The data is taken from the website: www.flower.onego.ru, and with the most resistant varieties in the article “Rhododendron Varieties”. Plants are listed in alphabetical order.

"Rhododendron" PHOTO: www.liveinternet.ru

RHODODENDRON ALBRECHT:

Deciduous Shrub. Height up to 1.5 m. Flowers are bright red with a green spot, up to 5 cm in diameter, collected in 4-5 pieces. Annual growth is 5-7 cm, grows slowly. Lives for more than 30 years. Photophilous. Prefers light soils, slightly acidic or acidic, moist. It is winter-hardy, but young plants should be covered with dry leaves and spruce branches in winters with little snow. Winter hardiness II, but sometimes over the years due to disruption of the rhythm of development it falls out completely.

PHOTO: www.wfu.edu

RHODODENDRON ATLANTIC:

Deciduous shrub 0.6 m tall. Flowering in May - June. The flowers are white with a light pinkish tint, with a strong scent, 4 - 10 in an inflorescence. The decorative effect is manifested in abundant, long-lasting flowering and bright yellow autumn color of the leaves. Grows slowly, annual growth is 3-4 cm. Lives about 25 years. Photophilous.

Prefers loose, moist, sandy, neutral soils. Quite winter hardy. Winter hardiness I (II).

RHODODENDRON VASEA:

The shrub is deciduous, the height in cultivation is about 2.5 m. The crown is wide-spreading. Flowering in late April - May. The flowers are light pink with orange-red specks, less often white, up to 3 cm long, open before the leaves, odorless. Decorative during flowering. Considered one of the best wild rhododendrons. Annual growth is up to 5 cm. Lives for more than 30 years. Light-loving. Prefers slightly acidic, gravelly, moist soils. Quite winter-hardy in the temperate zone of Russia. Winter hardiness I (II).

RHODODENDRON HALIFLOROUS:

Deciduous shrub, height 2 m. Flowers light pink or white with a pink tube, 3 - 4 cm in diameter, almost odorless, open before the leaves. Decorative during mass flowering and in autumn with yellow leaves. The bush grows slowly, annual growth is 3-5 cm. Lives for about 30 years. Photophilous. Grows on slightly acidic soils, moist, less often in swamps or dry gravelly soils. Quite frost-resistant. Winter hardiness is sufficient, but sometimes annual shoots freeze.

RHODODENDRON TREE:

Deciduous shrub 2 m tall. The leaves are long, narrow green, crimson in autumn. Long flowering in mid-summer. The flowers are white or pinkish, up to 5 cm in diameter at the ends of the shoots, fragrant, open after the appearance of new leaves. Good for combining with other species due to late flowering. It grows quite slowly, no more than 4-6 cm per year. Lives for several decades. Prefers slightly acidic, moisture-absorbing soils. Winter hardiness is complete, without shelter.

RHODODENDRON HAIRY:

Evergreen Shrub up to 1 m high. Leaves are narrow, leathery. The flowers are small in inflorescences of 3–10, odorless, bright pink, occasionally white, funnel-shaped, bell-shaped, bloom in May–June after new leaves appear. Flowering is long lasting. It grows very slowly - no more than 1 cm per year. Lives for several decades. Photophilous. One of the few Rhododendrons that tolerates alkaline soil. It is winter-hardy, it is better to cover young plants with spruce branches for the winter. Winter hardiness is complete without shelter.

“Rhododendron variety “Scarlet Wonder” PHOTO: www.flower.onego.ru PHOTO: Svetlana Polonskaya

PHOTO: www.flower.onego.ru
PHOTO: M.Barbukhatti

RHODODENDRON WESTERN:

Deciduous Shrub in cultivation 1.5 m, often up to the snow level. Leaves are oblong-lanceolate, 10 cm long, covered on both sides with bristly hairs, beautifully colored in yellow and crimson in autumn. Flowering time: May - June. The flowers are white with a yellow spot, up to 6 cm in diameter, odorless, collected in groups of 6 - 12, funnel-shaped. Decorative in spring during flowering and in autumn thanks to its beautifully colored leaves. It is not frost-resistant, but bending the branches to the ground keeps the flower buds from freezing. Winter hardiness is insufficient; winter shelter and mulching are necessary.

RHODODENDRON CANADIAN:

Low-growing, deciduous shrub no more than 1 m tall. Flowers are large, pink-purple, 2-5 on short branches. Winter hardiness is complete without shelter.

RHODODENDRON CAROLINA:

Evergreen Shrub 1.5 m high. Flowers are white or pink, about 3 cm in diameter, 4 - 9 in an inflorescence, funnel-shaped, with a yellowish spot, odorless. It grows quite slowly, with growth of 4-5 cm per year. Life expectancy is up to 25-30 years. Prefers a sunny location. Soils need to be slightly acidic, light, and moisture-absorbing. Winter hardiness is complete.

RHODODENDRON KOCHI OR CARPATHIAN:

Evergreen Shrub. Height is about 1 m. The flowers are white or scarlet, 1.5 cm in diameter, funnel-shaped, collected at the top of the shoots in 2 - 3 groups. Blooms in May - early June. Grows slowly, annual growth is 2-3 cm. Lives in culture from 30 to 40 years, longer in nature. Photophilous. Prefers acidic, moist soils. It is recommended to cover it with spruce branches and dry leaves for the winter; when it freezes, it grows back quickly. Winter hardiness is complete, but the ends of the shoots may freeze.

RHODODENDRON FORI OR SHORT-FRUITED:

Large evergreen upright shrub 1.5-3 m in height. Large oval, dark green leaves up to 10-18 cm long and up to 6 cm wide, similar to the leaves of Magnolia grandiflora. The flowers are 4 cm, collected in large inflorescences, 10 flowers each. It blooms in July for about a month. One of the most beautiful species of Rhododendron, characterized by high winter hardiness and late flowering. Winter hardiness is complete without shelter.

RHODODENDRON RUDSHING:

Evergreen Shrub. Height 0.5 - 1 m, diameter up to 0.8 m. Cushion-shaped crown. Flowering time: late April - early May for 25 days. The flowers are dark purple with a white throat, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, odorless, collected in 4 - 5 pieces. One of the most beautiful long-growing, abundantly and annually flowering ornamental shrubs.

The most common variety of Rhododendron blushing "Christide" with purple flowers. Grows very slowly - 3-5 cm. Photophilous. Prefers acidic, moisture-absorbing, but well-drained soils. Winter hardiness is complete without shelter.

RHODODENDRON LARGEST:

Evergreen Shrub or tree. The height of the bush is 1 - 4 m. Flowers in dense inflorescences are collected in 16 - 24 pieces, pink or white, with orange specks, up to 4 cm in diameter, bell-shaped, open after the development of new shoots and leaves in June - July. Decorative during abundant and long flowering. The bush grows very quickly. Reaches fifty years of age. Prefers a sunny location. The soil needs to be slightly acidic, loose, and moist. Winter hardiness is complete, but sometimes the ends of the shoots may freeze.

RHODODENDRON LEDEBURA:

Semi-evergreen, finely branched, densely leafy shrub up to 1.5 m tall, with upward-pointing branches. The leaves are soft and leathery. It blooms in May for 10 - 15 days, and again in autumn. The flowering is very colorful. The flowers are lilac, large up to 5 cm in d. Winter hardiness is high.

RHODODENDRON MACKINO:

Evergreen Shrub 1 - 2 m high. Leaves are narrow-lanceolate. Flowers - 8 in inflorescences, pale pink, bell-shaped, up to 5 cm in diameter, with a carmine-red spot; blooms in late May - June. Grows slowly, annual growth is 1.5-2 cm. All shoots grow upward. In culture it is short-lived, but in nature it lives for a long time. Photophilous. The soil must be peaty, acidic or slightly acidic, and moist. Winter hardiness is complete without shelter, although according to some data it freezes in the middle zone.

RHODODENDRON SMALL LEAF:

Originally from Siberia, Far East. Evergreen shrub, branched, erect, height 1 m. Flowers are lilac, rarely white, up to 2 cm in diameter, wide-funnel-shaped, odorless. It blooms in May - July, before the appearance of young leaves. Winter hardiness is complete.

JAPANESE RHODODENDRON OR JAPANESE AZALEA:

One of the most decorative deciduous rhododendrons, found on the sunny slopes of the mountains of the island of Honshu, where it grows as a deciduous, highly branched shrub up to 2 m tall. The flowers are fragrant, bell-shaped, up to 8 cm in diameter, from orange to scarlet, 6-12 in racemes . They bloom before the leaves appear or simultaneously with them. In terms of decorativeness during the flowering period, it has no equal in the middle zone. There is a golden form. Photophilous, winter-hardy. Propagates well by seeds and cuttings. Winter hardiness is considered complete, but according to data from flower growers in the Southern Urals, our Azalea Japonica freezes out in the first winter.

RHODODENDRON OTHER SPECIES:

There are also: Schliepenbach's Rhododendron, Fortune's Rhododendron, Ward's Rhododendron, Dull Rhododendron , etc., whose winter hardiness is also within I or II. Their winter hardiness in the Urals is unknown.

Growing or agricultural technology of Rhododendrons - planting and care:

Location:

When choosing a location, you need to keep in mind that it should be protected from prevailing winds and direct sunlight. The location depends more on the group to which the Rhododendron species belongs. There, deciduous ones can also be planted in sunny places with shade, while evergreen ones are best planted in partial shade or full shade, so that large shrubs and trees growing nearby do not compete with them for water, i.e. these should be plants with deep roots.

The soil:

Optimal soil mixture: leaf soil, peat and coniferous litter (3:2:1) with the addition of complete mineral fertilizer: 70 g per hole. Optimal soil acidity is 4.5 - 5.0. To deoxidize the soil, you can use special fertilizers “For azaleas”, “For conifers”, “For hydrangeas”, etc.

Landing:

The best time to plant Rhododendrons is spring. At the site of future plantings, holes about 50 cm deep and at least 70 cm wide are dug in advance. Drainage is required, a layer of broken brick and sand is 15-20 cm, if the planting hole is deep, then the drainage layer increases to 30 - 40 cm and includes fine gravel or crushed stone (but not limestone). The distance between plants depends on the height and diameter of the crown of the bush and averages from 0.7 to 2 m. When planting plants, you need to ensure that their root system is not buried, but is located 2-4 cm above the soil level, taking into account its precipitation. Make a hole around the bush with raised edges and water it abundantly.

Rhododendrons have a shallow root system (30-40 cm), which develops mainly in the litter and humus horizon. Therefore, mulching material is poured around the planted bushes - peat, pine needles in a layer of 4-8 cm, which retains moisture, prevents the growth of weeds, protects the roots from mechanical damage, and reduces the depth of soil freezing.

Care:

Weeding of tree trunk circles, watering and fertilizing. For normal growth and development of plants, the soil should be fertilized once every 2-3 years. Regular watering, abundant in dry and hot times of the season, 10 - 12 liters for each plant 2-3 times a week .Spray plants whenever possible, especially during active growth. The surest sign of water deficiency is that the leaves become dull and droop, with brown spots appearing along their edges, similar to fungal diseases. Ideally, water for watering Rhododendrons should be soft (rain or snow) and acidic, and should not contain a lot of salts.

In the first year after planting, it is better to break off all the buds so as not to weaken the fragile plant (leave a couple if you are eager to make sure that you have chosen exactly the variety you wanted). In adult plants, after flowering, only a part of the well-developed fruits is left for collecting seeds; excess fruits are removed, which contributes to better flowering of the plants next year.

For successful overwintering, you need to water the bushes abundantly before the start of winter, before the soil freezes. In the first 2-3 years after planting, it is recommended to cover evergreen Rhododendrons with spruce branches, low-growing Rhododendrons with a completely dry oak leaf, more heat-loving varieties can be covered with burlap, which is stretched over the frame. For deciduous Rhododendrons, bending branches to the ground is used so that they are covered in snow in winter. At the end of March - beginning of April, the cover is removed, sometimes leaving part of the spruce branches on evergreens for a short time to avoid spring sunburn.

Reproduction:

By seeds and vegetatively (layering, cuttings). Wild species are usually propagated by seeds, and varieties are most often propagated by layering and cuttings.

Usage:

When creating groups, it is not recommended to mix deciduous and evergreen Rhododendrons. If different species are planted nearby, then they must be selected according to height: in the center - the highest, at the edges - the lowest. Rhododendrons are very decorative next to coniferous plants: Spruces, Pines, Thujas.

To learn how to properly trim Trees and Shrubs, it is best to watch the video course HERE .

MY EXPERIENCE OF GROWING RHODODENDRONS

Of the Rhododendrons, I had 2 - Rhododendron Daursky and Rhododendron Ketevbinsky. Most often, Rhododendron Daurian appears on sale in our garden centers - the most winter-hardy species - it grows well without shelter and blooms every year. Rhododendron Ketevbinsky - grew for 2 years, overwintered, but died out in the harsh winter of 2010. It didn't bloom for me. I think the reason for the weakening was watering with very hard water, although I constantly tried to deoxidize it.

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Growing

Growing rhododendrons is no more difficult than barberry or honeysuckle. Unpretentious species plants can be grown even by beginners. For successful cultivation, you must follow simple rules:

• The planting site is chosen in partial shade;
• the soil should be acidic, with a high content of humus;
• there should be no substances that alkalize the soil near the roots - wood ash, lime, dolomite flour;
• It is necessary to mulch the plantings, preferably with pine needles or pine bark.

The roots of rhododendrons are located superficially, so the soil under the bushes cannot be loosened or dug up. Plants love water very much. They have to be watered frequently to prevent the coma from drying out.

How to care for a plant?

Watering

It has already been said that rhododendrons love moisture. They need to be watered often, but it is important not to overdo it. The soil should be moist but not wet.
The standard is 1-1.5 buckets per bush 2-3 times a week. Plants need watering in summer, as well as abundant watering before winter. It is best to use settled rainwater that has been acidified, for example with vinegar. During flowering and in hot weather, the foliage must be additionally sprayed. It is best to do this in the morning or evening so that the sun does not burn the leaves.

Attention! In August, watering is reduced to help the plant prepare for winter.

Top dressing

In the spring in the Moscow region, plants are fed with nitrogen mineral fertilizers, and in mid-summer - with potassium and phosphorus.

It is strictly forbidden to feed rhododendrons with ash - it alkalizes the soil. Calcium also needs to be excluded.

Organic fertilizers in the form of blood or horn meal, as well as half-rotted manure, are applied in early spring, after thoroughly moistening the soil. For acidification, it will be useful to introduce special acidifiers containing sulfur into the soil (preferably in the form of soluble chelates). It is added at the rate of 40 grams. per 1 m2.

Transfer

The transplantation process is not much different from that during planting. Plants usually tolerate this procedure well. The best time for it is April-May or September - mid-October. Deciduous species are best planted in the spring so that they have time to take root well.

Attention! Plants can be replanted only after they have become stronger. This usually takes two years.

Other operations

• Mulching. The operation is carried out after rain. Mulch is poured onto loose soil, the layer thickness is 4-9 cm. Most often, peat or pine litter is used for this purpose. The root system of the flower is located superficially, so you cannot dig up the soil underneath it.
• Removing weeds. Weeding is only allowed by hand! It is advisable to leave the oxalis, since it is an indicator of soil acidity and a natural neighbor of rhododendrons.
• Removing faded inflorescences. This operation reduces seed production, allowing the plant to form more buds the following year.
• Pruning. Allows you to adjust the shape of the bush. It is carried out immediately after flowering (no later than 20 days after its end).

Pests and diseases

Unfortunately, rhododendrons in the Moscow region are affected by a large number of pests and are susceptible to a large number of diseases. Among the pests we highlight the following:

• acacia false scale;
• rhododendron fly;
• sawfly;
• bug;
• whitefly;
• spider mite;
• tobacco thrips;
• garden beetle;
• sulcata weevil;
• narrow-winged miner moth;
• mealybug;
• blue moth;
• field slug.

The main method of combating them is to treat plants with special preparations, but slugs will have to be collected by hand.

The number of diseases of different nature is also large.

1. Fungal:
   late blight rot;
2. tracheomycosis;
3. septoria, pestalcia, anthracnose and phyllostictosis spots;
4. rot of seedlings and young seedlings, buds, root and gray rot;
5. dry white rot of the root collar;
6. death of shoots;
7. wax disease;
8. cercospora;
9. rust.
10. Viral - leaf mosaic.
11. Bacterial - root cancer.
12. Associated with deficiencies in soil and care:
    chlorosis;
13. getting wet;
14. sunburn;
15. winter drying out.

The methods of struggle, accordingly, are also varied. A detailed review of them is beyond the scope of this article, but the information is readily available on the Internet.

Video about diseases and pests of rhododendron:

Preparing for winter

In addition to mulching, it is recommended to prepare a groove for melt water drainage , but at the same time remember about the shallow root system.
Deciduous varieties, as a rule, do not require additional shelter, while evergreen and semi-deciduous varieties can be covered with spruce branches, peat, or a frame shelter can be built not only for the plant itself, but also for its root system. The shelter is removed gradually, ending at the end of April.

Landing

Rhododendrons have compact roots, so they don't need a large planting hole. It is enough to prepare a depression up to half a meter deep. The width of the pit depends on the type of rhododendron. For large plants (Yellow River or Katevbinsky River), the diameter of the hole should be 0.8 m. When planting on heavy soils, be sure to fill the bottom of the hole with a drainage layer of about 15 cm.

The most important stage in planting rhododendrons is preparing the substrate with which the planting hole will be filled. The ideal mixture is made up of:

• three shares of leaf soil;
• two shares of high peat;
• one share of needles.

A substrate composed only of high-moor peat and pine or spruce needles in equal parts is allowed. Low-lying peat is unsuitable for planting rhododendrons - it has a fine structure, so the soil will float.

The soil, which includes pine needles and peat, has the acidity necessary for rhododendrons, does not caking and provides the plants with all the necessary substances.

• seedlings with a closed root system are immersed in water and kept until air bubbles stop coming out of the ground.
• the bush is taken out of the container and planted in a hole filled with substrate to the same depth;
• Water abundantly and sprinkle with mulch.

After planting, you need to make sure that the root collar of the plant is not covered with soil. Rhododendrons planted too deeply die quickly.

Mulching is a mandatory technique when growing this crop. Pine needles, moss, dry oak leaves or peat are suitable for this. Maple and chestnut leaves should not be used as mulch, as they alkalize the soil. Mulch protects the rhododendron roots, which are located very close to the soil surface, from overheating, drying out, and in winter from freezing. The layer of mulch under the plants should be at least 5 cm.

Step-by-step care instructions

Choosing a planting site - a place should be chosen in the shade or partial shade, not in the lowlands and not in the sun, preferably next to a pine tree (its shade will serve as protection for the bush. A very good place for planting: the north-eastern side of the house (if there are no drafts there). What should the soil be like - the soil should be light, it should be loose, fertile, slightly acidic, moderately moist. Planting - planting is usually carried out in the spring. First, we prepare the place for planting, carefully get rid of all the weeds growing there, especially perennials. In the meantime, the seedling needs to be well pour water so that the roots are saturated (it will be easier for them to take root). Then we dig a hole - 2 times larger than the volume of the roots of the bush, pour drainage and a little substrate into the bottom of the hole. The substrate should contain: high-moor peat, leaf humus, sand, turf soil, crushed charcoal and a little pine bark. Place the seedling in the prepared place and gradually add substrate from the sides. Do not fill the root collar, form a hole near the trunk on top and water it. Once the water is absorbed, mulch with pine chips or needles.

Temperature – for this variety the lowest possible temperature is 28 degrees below zero, and the highest possible is about 30 degrees above zero. The most favorable is in the range from minus 10 to plus 20 degrees. Watering is abundant and regular; you need to water deeply, not superficially, that is, a large bush requires at least 5 buckets of water. But the water must be soft, warm, preferably rain (or pond). You should also not allow excessive waterlogging, you cannot do everything automatically, you need to be guided by the condition of the soil and the weather

If it rains, then, naturally, watering is not required. REFERENCE! Also important for this flower is spraying, which must be carried out on the leaves (not during the flowering period, water should not get on the flowers). The water for spraying must also be soft.

Fertilizing is useful in certain periods: it is definitely necessary in early spring, just before flowering begins and even after flowering ends.

Fertilizing in the form of a water infusion of compost and rotted cow manure works well. Pruning is only necessary for sanitary purposes - after winter we carefully remove broken branches, and after flowering it is advisable to remove all flower stalks so that the seeds do not ripen later and the bush does not weaken. Replanting - it is worth replanting if the shrub feels unsatisfactory, blooms very weakly or does not bloom at all, that is, the place is not suitable for it. How to prepare for winter - in order to properly prepare a shrub for wintering, it is necessary to water it well before the onset of negative temperatures, then lay a thick layer of mulch. These can be pine needles or bark. Although “Polar Night” is a fairly winter-hardy species, it is still better to cover it with any suitable covering material for the winter. This will protect it not only from freezing (if suddenly there are very severe frosts), but also from burning in the bright sun in winter.

Choosing a winter-hardy variety

Those azaleas (azaleas) that we grow at home on windowsills are not intended for outdoor wintering in the middle zone. But at gardening markets they are selling a variety of outdoor varieties of rhododendrons that are capable of abundant flowering from spring to mid-summer. An azalea flower of lilac or pink color is always pleasing to the eye.

Pay attention to deciduous azaleas - they are quite winter-hardy. Of the evergreen plants in our gardens, you can plant and successfully grow those that live well and have a beautiful appearance:

• Rhododendron Katevbinsky (this is the name of a group of tall and fairly winter-hardy plants), varieties: “Fastozum Flore Plena”, “Alfred”, “Biber”, “Hesse”, “Ligo”, “Roseum Elegance”;
• Rhododendron Blushing (low-growing varieties): “Violetta”, “Azourvolke”;
• Rhododendron Kamchatka;
• Rhododendron Ledebur;
• Dense rhododendron, varieties “Azurika” and “Bloomiria”;
• Rhododendron Smirnova, varieties “Delila” and “Ligava”.

If you are offered other varieties on the market, then ask about their species name. Do not buy a flowering plant with a large leaf as a planting material - it is intended for indoor cultivation, this is not a garden variety!

The most resistant varieties for the garden are bred from rhododendrons Katevbinsky, Ledebur, Krasneuchey, Plotny, Smirnov.

Preparing the site

Most types of azaleas and rhododendrons can be grown successfully if the planting site meets the following important requirements:

• it can provide good drainage for plants;
• the place is in partial shade or has the necessary protection from direct sunlight;
• the soil on the site is light or you are able to prepare large planting holes with a complete replacement of the soil in them;
• you can equip an irrigation system or ensure regular watering of the plants; azalea appreciates moisture.

The best areas for growing rhododendrons are shaded, wooded areas, slightly elevated on the terrain. Therefore, the snow melts off them early and does not stagnate; and they are protected from the winds.

Holes for planting should be made three times wider and 2 - 3 times deeper than the lump of earth or container in which you bought the azalea. The soil in the hole should be completely replaced with a mixture of two parts of well-rotted, odorless, light brown humus (using fresh manure or under-rotted humus will lead to the rapid death of the seedling!), two parts of acidic peat and one part of coarse sand. It is also good to add to the soil up to 1/5 of the coniferous litter collected in the forest or finely ground pine bark, which can be bought at gardening markets.

Possible diseases and pests, ways to get rid of them

Rhododendron is vulnerable to the following pests:

• Spider mite. It can be recognized by examining the bottom of the leaf blade. A sign of the disease will be the presence of light cobwebs and a brownish color.
• Acacia pseudothyroid. The insect looks like a frozen drop of juice. The size of the individual is very small, and therefore it is not always possible to see and recognize the pest in time. The pest attaches itself to the plant and feeds on it, which depletes the resources of the bush and it dies.
• Weevil grooved. Black bugs no more than 1 cm in length. The larvae feed on roots, while the adults feed on leaves.

Preventative spraying in the spring helps in pest control. To do this, you can use biological agents “Kleschevit”. Chemical options are “Pinotsid”, “Aktara” and “Aliot”. During the flowering period, this procedure is not done so as not to harm pollinating insects.

Diseases that are terrible for rhododendrons:

Other diseases of rhododendron:

Fusarium, verticillium and late blight can be combated by replanting to a new location. Diseased shoots are first removed and burned. It is necessary to spray the seedling 2-3 times a year with an interval of 14 days using the Bordeaux mixture and Ordan products.

The next season, the bush is sprayed for preventive purposes and its health is monitored. You cannot feed during illness; you should wait for a complete recovery. It is permissible to apply foliar fertilizers only in the spring, with a small amount of minerals and microelements.

Planting and care

In early spring (this is the best time to plant a plant), the prepared mixture for the pit is thoroughly mixed, and a specialized fertilizer for rhododendrons is added to it. As a last resort, you can simply add a complete complex organic-mineral fertilizer.

A drainage made of broken brick or granite (attention, granite!) crushed stone is placed at the bottom of the pit. The thickness of the drainage layer is 15 – 20 cm.

When planting, pay attention to the location of the root: the root neck of the rhododendron cannot be buried - the plant will bloom poorly or even die.

The easiest way to feed is with specialized acidic fertilizers for rhododendrons. In the first two years, the plant does not need feeding; after that, chlorine-containing fertilizers should not be used; mullein or any manure in general should not be used.

Azaleas for a garden in the Moscow region really appreciate abundant watering once a month with sour water infused with ordinary lemons. The infusion is made like this: squeeze five lemons into 5 liters of water.

Squeezed lemons are also thrown into water and left for 5 - 6 hours. Next, 2.5 liters of this water are poured under one large rhododendron bush or 1.5 liters under a small one (up to 1 m in height).

Deciduous azaleas tolerate winters well with the climate typical for central Russia.

With proper care, the plant will grow well and should bloom in 3-4 years.

FORUMHOUSE has collected a lot of useful information on rhododendrons, you can ask for advice, study the experience of our best gardeners, look at photographs, etc.

Reproduction methods

Cuttings

It is best to carry out this procedure in the summer. You need semi-lignified cuttings from the tops of a shoot about 10 cm in size , which must have at least 5 leaves.

1. The cuttings are soaked for 12 hours in a growth stimulator (for example, 0.02% succinic acid solution).
2. Then they are planted in pots with a sand-peat mixture and placed for rooting.
3. By autumn they are transferred to the basement or cellar.

You can plant it in open ground after 2 years.

Leaf cuttings

Cuttings containing at least two leaves and two developed buds are used. The rest of the process is no different from what has already been described.

By layering

The method is best suited for deciduous species.

Reference! Plants obtained in this way live less than those grown from seeds.

In the spring, several young shoots are tilted and buried to a depth of 15 cm. The upper part is fixed vertically. Further care is carried out in the same way as for the main plant. For the winter, the layerings are covered. After a year or two, they are separated and replanted.

There is also the “air layering” method, but it is used mainly abroad

Seeds

1. Seeds, pre-stratified in the refrigerator, are mixed with sand and placed strictly on the surface of a sand-peat mixture sterilized in the microwave.
2. The boxes are covered with glass and placed in a warm, lit place.
3. Plantings are watered and ventilated.
4. By autumn, each seedling is transplanted into a separate pot. By this time they will consist of 5-10 sheets.
5. In summer, the pots are transferred to the garden, and in winter they are returned to the warmth, continuing to water and ventilate.

Only in the 5th year are the plants ready to be transplanted into open ground.

Dividing the bush

In the spring, a large healthy bush is cut into several parts with a shovel , small roots are removed, after which the planting material is planted in a new place.

Important! In the first year, wintering in a greenhouse is required.

Graft

At the beginning of autumn, the rootstock is dug up (its age is 3-4 years), transplanted into pots and placed in a greenhouse at a temperature of 5-10 ° C. The grafting is carried out after two weeks, and they try to do it as close as possible to the roots of the rootstock.

Two methods are used:

1. budding (a bud of a graft shoot is placed on a branch of the rootstock);
2. copulation (the stem of the grafting plant is placed in the cut of the main one).

It becomes obvious that if you follow not very complicated rules for choosing varieties and locations, planting and care techniques, protecting plants and fighting diseases and pests, luxurious rhododendrons can be grown in the climatic conditions of not only the Moscow region, but also Siberia. The main thing is not to be afraid.