The distance between rose bushes when planting in the ground, what should be from each other

Roses in landscape design

Beautiful roses often play a major role in landscape design. These flowers can be used to grow amazing compositions in parks, gardens, rose gardens, and rockeries. They decorate gazebos, fences, walls of buildings, arches. They are grown on scrubs, trellises, pergolas, and planted near borders.

Ground cover roses on the site

The imagination of flower growers and designers is truly limitless. But they must always remember the needs of the plant and strictly maintain the required distance between rose bushes when planting. It depends on the size and characteristics of the flower variety.

Planting is most often carried out in the spring, so by this time you need to know exactly the specifics of the plants intended for the composition.

Hedge covered with roses

Attention! With proper care, roses will become a magnificent decoration for even the most inconspicuous summer cottage.

How to properly care for roses (with photos and videos)

In order to properly care for roses, as practice shows, it is very important for the successful survival of any species to create conditions that ensure the preservation of the viability of the shoots. If the bark on the shoots begins to darken and wrinkle, this usually leads to the death of the plant. And such phenomena are often observed, since cultivated (varietal) roses, being plants of southern origin, finish growing late and are left with insufficiently mature shoots, which are sensitive during transplantation to the effects of drying wind and direct sunlight. To avoid this, immediately after spring planting, it is necessary to shade the rose bushes with agril, agrotex or other material, and when planting in the fall, cover them high with earth, so that the already cut shoots are completely covered.

In the spring, after removing the winter shelter from the roses, as soon as the soil thaws and dries out somewhat, the bushes are unhilled and shallow loosened while simultaneously applying nitrogen fertilizers (20-25 g per 1 m2).

As shown in the photo, when unplanting roses in the garden, the root collar should not be exposed, as this retards growth and weakens the plant:

A variety of roses according to external characteristics and cultivation characteristics

Everything about amaryllis and hippeastrum: visual differences, how to tell them apart

Roses are very diverse. There are many species, types, and varieties of these beautiful flowers.

Biologists and gardeners distinguish several main groups:

Polyanthas are low, dense bushes without thorns with many small flowers. Flowering continues until frost.
Park varieties are ancient ornamental varieties that bloom early, but not for long. Winter-hardy, have a very strong aroma.
Garden - old varieties of white or pale pink flowers.
Remontant - large and fragrant buds, bloom several times a year.
Hybrid tea is a hybrid of remontant and Chinese tea roses. They bloom long and luxuriantly. They are thermophilic and need shelter for the winter.
Ground cover - shrubs with long creeping shoots. They bloom long and luxuriantly.
Floribundas are tall bushes with large flowers. They appeared as a result of crossing polyanthus and hybrid tea varieties. They bloom profusely, long and continuously. Faded buds fall off, and young petals appear in their place.
Grandiflora - appeared after crossing hybrid teas and floribundas. The flowers are large in size, bloom long and luxuriantly.
Miniature - small garden varieties. They grow up to 40 cm in height. Double flowers can appear from spring to late autumn.
Climbing - fast-growing creeping shoots with small flowers collected in large inflorescences. Related species are semi-climbing and climbing.
Shrubs are tall shrubs that bloom once a year.

Rose bushes in a flowerbed

Choosing the best place to plant roses

Roses in a summer cottage (photo)

When choosing a place to plant roses, do not forget that these plants love fertile, humus-rich, light garden soil. They grow well on chernozems, light loams and sandy loams with good structure and a high content of organic matter. The soil is preferably slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6.5).

Roses need at least 5-6 hours of sun per day and an open location where the breeze blows through them from all directions. In the bright sun near the southern wall, roses will feel bad; leaf burns are possible here, and the color of the flower fades quickly.

Some varieties tolerate partial shade. In dense and poorly ventilated places, roses are more likely to get sick.

Do not plant roses close to buildings, they do not tolerate this. It is better to plant climbing roses not near the wall of the house, but at least 20-25 cm away from it. The soil near the wall is usually dry and contains a lot of lime.

Not the best place to plant roses is next to paved paths, there is also too much heat here. If roses in a container are on a balcony, loggia or paved area in the country, spray them with water more often (morning and evening).

Do not plant roses under a pitched roof or under trees that drip frequently; they cannot tolerate water dripping from above.

To properly plant roses in the selected area before winter, you need to apply organic fertilizers, dig them up and leave them so that the clods of earth freeze and crumble in the spring. On steep slopes, roses can be grown on terraces. In the shade they reach for the light and bloom poorly.

Most roses are grafted on rose hips, whose roots go relatively deep into the ground. This circumstance must be taken into account when choosing a place to plant bushes. High groundwater levels cause yellowing of leaves and promote the development of fungal diseases. Roses like to be flooded with water from time to time, especially during dry periods, but they cannot tolerate high groundwater levels. The permissible depth for such waters is 100 cm.

Before planting roses correctly, you should consider what plants grew before them. A number of garden crops are not suitable as rose predecessors. First of all, this applies to representatives of the entire Rosaceae family and almost all fruit trees, which take the same nutrients from the soil as roses. Therefore, before planting roses, the soil must be thoroughly fertilized.

Roses should not be planted too close to trees, especially those whose roots take a lot of nutrients and moisture from the soil. This applies to birches, maples, elms, and ash. The place under the treetops is absolutely not suitable for roses. In the garden, it is not recommended to plant roses in close proximity to berry gardens, beds with vegetables and green crops, as well as fruit bushes. It's not just a matter of aesthetics. In such a neighborhood, it is impossible to carry out protective spraying of roses against powdery mildew, aphids, thrips and a host of other pests and diseases - the harvest of neighboring crops will become inedible.

The constant drying draft, which usually occurs near the corners of buildings, in the aisles between them, is also harmful to roses. They also do not like closed places in courtyards or gardens built up on all sides, surrounded by high, blank fences. Air movement is important for healthy rose growth. It should not be limited by framing roses with dense plantings of other shrubs.

With proper planting and care in the open ground, roses will delight you for many years.

Rules for planting roses in open ground, what distance should be between bushes

The distance between roses when planting in the ground depends on several factors:

bush growth;
features of caring for it;
the specifics of the place chosen for planting (is it well lit by the sun, how fertile is the soil, etc.).

How to plant roses in open ground in summer

Landscape compositions must be compiled in accordance with the types and varieties of flowers. In landscape design, the distance between roses plays an important role. When flowers are crowded, they lack air and nutrients, and infections spread at lightning speed.

For reference! All roses love plenty of light and fertile, moist soil, but do not tolerate drafts and lack of nutrients.

Ground cover roses

Among the ground cover varieties there are creeping, weeping and erect varieties. Their bushes are very dense, but grow at different rates. You can decorate a terrace, gazebo, wall of a house with ground cover flowers, or make a flower bed from them.

To grow a dense carpet of flowers, leave 60–80 cm between plants. Tall and weeping roses are planted at a distance equal to half their height. Spreading low bushes can be planted at a distance of 40–60 cm from each other.

The distance between creeping rose bushes depends on the growth rate of the shoots. The faster the branches grow, the farther the bushes should be from each other. Therefore, 1 meter is left between vigorously growing ones, and 40–60 cm between weakly growing ones.

Climbing and climbing roses

Climbing roses for wall decoration

A hedge of flowers looks very beautiful. The walls of the house and gazebos, fences and arches can be decorated with climbing plants. Climbing and climbing roses look especially luxurious. Their shoots grow quickly and wrap themselves around the objects on which they are attached.

Semi-climbing and climbing varieties have long branches (1.5–5 m), capable of hanging from a support or spreading along the ground. Climbing shoots are even longer - up to 5–15 m. They grow more intensively. It is advisable to plant both of these species in groups near supports or branches of large trees.

To decorate the wall of a gazebo or arch, one bush of climbing or climbing rose is enough. To create a hedge, you can plant 4-5 bushes. An interval of 3–5 meters should be left between vigorously growing varieties, and 2 m between weakly growing varieties.

Shrub roses

Floribunda, grandiflora, park, hybrid tea, polyantha species, as well as some varieties of ground cover and climbing flowers are most often grown as bush flowers.

When growing single bushes, you need to leave 3 meters between them. If a gardener wants to plant a hedge, then the distance between the rose bushes should be equal to half their height.

Shrub roses look very impressive

For example, all rose bushes in a hedge will grow to 2 m, then leave 1 m between them.

Flowerbed roses

Flowerbeds include polyanthus and hybrid tea species, as well as floribunda. These flowers can be grown in small groups in a flower bed.

Depending on the intensity of shoot growth, flowerbed varieties are divided into two large groups. Strongly growing varieties should be planted at a distance of 40–60 cm from each other, and weakly growing ones – at 30–40 cm.

For reference! You can plant other flowers and small shrubs next to them.

Standard, cascading roses

Standard and cascade roses are grown using grafting. A cutting of a climbing or miniature rose is grafted onto a strong rosehip trunk 40–90 cm high.

Cascade varieties differ from standard varieties in that a cutting of a climbing or ground cover rose with long curly shoots hanging down is grafted onto a standard 140 cm high. Some gardeners use hybrid tea varieties and floribunda.

It is advisable to plant standard and cascade varieties individually and not in groups. If the grower decides to grow them in rows, then a distance of 3 meters must be maintained between standard flowers, and 3-5 meters between cascading flowers.

Rose bush in the form of a trunk

Attention! Herbaceous or coniferous plants look beautiful next to these flowers.

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Golden rules for growing roses. https://www.accbud.ua/landscape/rastenijasd/zolotye-pravila-vyraschivanija-roz—chast-1
Choosing a healthy seedling

As a rule, seedlings are sold with an open root system, closed and seedlings in containers. The advantage of purchasing bare-root bushes is that you have the opportunity to examine the development of the root system. Seedlings of the highest category have at least three stems, medium ones - at least two. Pay attention to the leaves and shoots; they may show signs of disease. The root system should be well developed (the diameter of the root collar is about 8–10 mm). Carefully scratch one of the roots with your fingernail: the roots should be elastic and white. Roses with bare roots can only be purchased during the main planting period, since even short-term storage can lead to drying out of the root system. Capped-root seedlings are a more reliable option. Their advantage is the protection of the root system from various damages during transportation. You can buy seedlings in containers. However, check the strength of the plant in advance and make sure that it was not transplanted shortly before the time of sale. The advantage of container seedlings is a visual assessment of the color and structure of the flower.

Choosing a place to plant roses

Favorable place: well-lit part of the garden. The sun should illuminate the roses in the morning, while during the day a light shade is needed to protect them from the hot afternoon rays. It is also important to know that varieties of dark shades cannot be planted in direct sunlight - it is better to plant roses of light colors in this place. An unfavorable place for roses: the northern part of the garden, blown by the winds, as well as under trees, close to the walls of buildings and fences. In addition, new young roses should not be placed next to old ones. If the bush is in constant shade, this leads to intensive vertical growth and further depletion of the plant. The cold wind dehydrates the leaves and shakes the bush; the solution is to install a hedge; it should be done so as not to shade the roses. Favorable soil for roses. Light loamy soils, rich in humus, easily permeable to air and moisture. These are ideal soils, but are rare. Less favorable soils for roses are light sandy and sandy loam soils; in winter they often freeze, and in summer they overheat, and nutrients are washed out of them more quickly. To enrich the soil, rotted manure, turf soil, peat and lime are added. Heavy clay soils, where moisture is retained for a long time, also require improvement. Such soils should be drained and sand, humus, compost, and peat should be added. With a lack of oxygen, respiration and root growth deteriorate, and excess moisture slows down the development of the root system and leads to the death of the plant. that is unfavorable for roses is waterlogged, swampy, with a high groundwater level. Excessive moisture in the area will destroy the bush. Groundwater should not be higher than 1.5 meters. The soil for roses is preferably slightly acidic , pH (an indicator of the soil acidity level) is 6.0–6.5. At a pH of about 7, the soil is considered neutral, at a pH below 7 - acidic, and with a pH above 7 - alkaline. To increase acidity, peat and manure are added to the soil, and to get rid of toxins, ash, lime or dolomite flour are added. Swampy, saline and rocky soils should be avoided. In areas with cold climates and short summers, roses need alkaline soil. It is not recommended to root seedlings in places where rose bushes previously grew. Due to depletion, the soil here can be infected with pests and pathogens. If there is no other option, remove the soil in a layer of 70 cm and fill in a new one.

Time to plant roses

Roses are planted before the buds open, as soon as the soil warms up to about +10 ° C (in the south - in April, in the middle zone - in late April - early May). During spring planting, their roots are shortened to 30 cm. If the plant was purchased with already cut roots, the cuts need to be renewed. For park, climbing, and semi-climbing roses, the roots are slightly shortened and weak or damaged shoot tips are removed. For ground cover roses, only root sections are renewed. The shoots of tall roses are shortened by 10–15 cm, and of climbing roses by up to 35 cm. Immediately after planting, you need to shorten their branches above the sixth bud, and the stem shoots above the third. Floribunda roses leave 3–4 buds, while hybrid tea roses leave 2–3. Roses planted in spring require a lot of attention: it is necessary to constantly monitor soil moisture and carefully shade the seedlings from the sun. Spring planting is not recommended if the soil is wet and heavy: during planting it becomes even more compact and difficult to loosen. It is strongly recommended to plant standard roses in the spring, since flowers of this particular variety can hardly tolerate autumn planting. Spring is the optimal period for planting roses in mountainous areas. In autumn, roses are planted from the first ten days of September until mid-October - so that the shoots have time to take root before frost. If a rose with an open root system is being planted, then planting such a seedling earlier is undesirable: the plant will begin to spend too much energy on the growth of young shoots and buds, and as a result will weaken and may not withstand the winter cold. And if roses are planted later, say, at the end of October, they may not have time to take root, will not survive the winter well, and may even die. When planting in autumn, only damaged branches and the ends of broken shoots are cut off. You can also eliminate unripe shoots, leaving only 3–5 of the strongest ones. It is better to postpone pruning shoots with several eyes until spring. Roses planted in autumn are pruned for the first time the following spring, lubricating the pruning areas with garden varnish. in summer , but in this case the seedlings must have a closed root system. Roses grown in containers can be planted throughout the season If the plants were purchased in the fall, but frost hit, it is no longer advisable to plant them; it is better to bury them in a shady place until spring, lowering them at an angle into the ground 10 cm below the budding site. Be sure to moisten dry roots by placing the seedling in a bucket of water for two hours. When digging, the bushes are watered abundantly, covered with earth, lightly trampled and wrapped.

How to prepare roses for planting

The day before planting, roses are placed in water for 10 hours. Before planting, the roots are shortened to 20 cm, and damaged ones are cut back to healthy tissue. Remove all dried branches and trim the remaining ones. In this case, five buds are left on strong shoots, three on less strong shoots, and weak shoots are cut off, leaving no more than 3 mm at their base. Depending on the variety, during spring planting the shoots are pruned as follows: for hybrid teas - up to 10–15 cm, for floribundas - up to 20 cm, for park ones - only the tops. In climbing roses, they try to preserve the lashes. Miniature, ground cover, bush plants do not need pruning. For better survival, the roots should be moistened in a solution of clay and mullein (3:1), adding one tablet of heteroauxin, previously dissolved in water, to one bucket of solution. When planting in autumn, the seedlings are not pruned; only the dried tops of the shoots are removed until they reach healthy wood; the roots are cut to 20–25 cm.

Subtleties of planting and preparing roses

The rose seedling is lowered into the hole and the roots are straightened. Consider the correct planting depth for grafted roses. The grafting site (the thickening between the roots and branches) should be 2–3 cm below ground level. It is important that the soil fits tightly to the roots. The seedling is watered abundantly, and when the water is absorbed, the position of the grafting site is checked. If the ground has settled, the seedling is raised a little and soil is added. Then they hill it up to 20–25 cm and shade it for 10–12 days. After planting, monitor the soil moisture. In dry weather, roses are watered every 4–5 days. If the soil on the site does not meet the necessary requirements for planting roses and you need to use a potting mixture, then the planting technique is slightly different. The mixture is poured into a mound at the bottom of the hole, and a layer of fertile soil without fertilizers is sprinkled on top to protect the roots from burns. They put up a bush, cover it again with soil without fertilizers and compact it. Otherwise there are no differences. Make a hole around the planted bush and, watering, fill it to the brim with water three times. After moisture is absorbed, the hole is covered with earth. Then the seedlings are hilled up so that all shoots to a height of 20 cm are closed - this protects them from drying out. After the sprouts reach 2–5 cm, the roses are unplanted, and the soil around is sprinkled (mulched) with humus, compost, straw or peat in a layer of 4–6 cm. Climbing roses should be planted so that the grafting site is 8–10 cm lower surface level, which promotes the development of grafted shoots. After planting, roses should also be hilled. If a climbing rose grows near the wall of a house, then the distance from the wall should be at least 50 cm. The plant is planted at an angle to the wall. It is recommended to plant a standard rose by attaching its trunk to a support, otherwise it will not withstand its own weight. The support is installed in the hole before the plant is placed there. The support must be strong and reach the crown to protect the plant from strong winds. The rose is attached to the support at the level of the crown firmly and so that the tie cannot slide down the trunk and support.

Rose planting process

Preparing the soil for planting roses

In the place where you plan to plant the rose, you should remove the weeds, dig up and fertilize the soil, and prepare planting holes. The soil where the rose will grow must be dug to a depth of 40–50 cm and large doses of organic fertilizers must be added at the rate of 1.5–2 kg of manure and compost for each bush. Complete mineral fertilizer is also applied. Adding stove ash is also useful. A hole for the rose is dug wide and deep (60x50 cm), so that after planting the budding site of the seedling is 5 cm below ground level. For spring planting, it is better to prepare planting holes in the fall, for autumn planting - in the spring. If this does not work out, the pits must be prepared at least two to three weeks before planting. Fertilizers and fertilizing are required. Sand is added to heavy clay soils and dug up, and humus is added to sandy soils. 10 days before planting, dig holes 50 cm deep for self-rooted roses and 70 cm deep for grafted ones, and fill them with water. After the water is absorbed, about three shovels of humus mixed with soil are placed in the planting hole. A week after these land procedures, the seedlings can be planted.

10–12 days after autumn planting, the plant develops small young roots, which harden before frost and overwinter well in an air-dry shelter. In spring, such roses develop simultaneously both root and above-ground parts, and a strong bush quickly forms. They bloom at the same time as the old ones.

Hilling roses

Regardless of what time of year the bush is planted, immediately after planting its above-ground part is hilled up, leaving only the upper part of the shoots uncovered. This stimulates the rooting of the young seedling, protects it from frost during autumn planting, and from the hot sun during spring planting. If plants are planted in the spring, they are unplanted when young shoots begin to grow; if in the fall, then only after winter, when it gets warmer. It is better to do this in cloudy or rainy weather, or in the evening.

Optimal distances between roses

When planting a large number of roses, the optimal distance between them largely depends on the size of the bush and its purpose. Between miniature roses the average distance is 35–50 cm, between roses of the grandiflora, floribunda and hybrid tea groups - 60 cm, between climbing and park roses - from 60 cm to 1 m, between semi-climbing roses - 1–1.2 m. If a living one is created hedges, roses need to be planted close (approximately the distance between them is 40–50 cm), and one climbing plant is planted to cover the gazebo and create an arch. Climbing varieties are best planted at a distance of 1–2 m near supports and arches. It is not recommended to plant roses too densely: they will begin to get sick, bloom poorly and lose foliage. In addition, dense plantings make it difficult to care for plants, especially pruning and loosening. Rarely planting roses is also undesirable: in summer the soil around the bushes gets very warm and dries out.

Pruning roses

Roses need to be pruned annually in the spring, a couple of weeks after the insulation has been removed; the leaves have not yet blossomed, but the buds have already swelled. Spring pruning of roses is called molding. It is done by removing the cover from the plants, approximately in mid-to-late March. Pruning should only be done with a sharp garden knife or pruning shears. The cut should be 5 mm above the bud with a slight slope away from it. The shoots are pruned to healthy wood, to a bud located on the outside of the shoot. You need to cut off old, diseased, dry and weak shoots. For miniature roses, not only do they cut off the old branches, but also shorten all the shoots by half. In large and multi-flowered plants, weak shoots are cut off above the fifth or sixth bud, leaving the rest longer. In climbers, only a few of the strongest shoots are left. For standard roses grafted onto tall trunks, all shoots are pruned, leaving lashes about 20 cm long. Roses that bloom once are not pruned. In floribunda roses, cut off the inflorescences to the first shoot or to a bud oriented outward. Hybrid tea rose flowers are removed with two leaves. Ground cover varieties of roses and rose hips need only be pruned to give them a beautiful appearance. In order for the flowers of these roses to be large, it is necessary to remove part of the ovaries.

Good and bad neighbors of roses

Roses are like people - they do well with some plants, but not so much with others... The queen of flowers feels great next to clematis, worthy companions are also marigolds, calendula, foxgloves, crocuses, hosta, aquilegia, gladiolus, petunia. It would be very nice if edible or decorative garlic or lavender grew next to the rose. Their essential oils contain biologically active substances - phytoncides, which protect rose bushes from pests and diseases. Poppy, lavender, narcissus, white wormwood, phlox, and astilbe will not interfere with roses. Tulips, lilies, daylilies, delphiniums, primroses and ferns will be neutral for her. But next to heucheras, sedums, saxifrage, aster, iris, peony, pansies, sweet peas, Turkish cloves, and cereals, the rose feels very bad - they oppress it.

Rose propagation

Roses for the garden can be propagated by grafting (this is the method mainly practiced in Ukraine), as well as by layering, suckers, division, and cuttings. Roses are also grafted. We will describe other methods. Graft. Roses are grafted (by cutting or eye) onto rootstocks, which are grown from cuttings or rosehip seeds. The rootstock must have a powerful, well-branched root system, not produce wild growth, be frost-, drought- and moisture-resistant, durable and compatible with the scion. The main method of budding is through a T-shaped incision. It is better to do this vaccination in mid-July. First, the root collar of the rootstock is freed from the soil and thoroughly wiped with a piece of cloth. Then a T-shaped cut is made on the root collar of the rootstock. The vertical line should be about 2.5 cm, the horizontal line should be about 1 cm. The bark is moved apart so that it is easy to insert the shield with the kidney. The next step: from cuttings cut from the middle part of mature shoots, from the bottom up we cut off a shield (a piece of bark with a dormant bud) with a small layer of wood, which we immediately remove. We insert the shield with the kidney into the T-shaped incision. We cut off the upper, protruding part of the shield at the level of the horizontal cut. After this, we wrap the grafting site tightly with budding film. After three weeks, we check the kidney for survival. If it does not turn black, but remains green and slightly swollen, the budding went well. Before the onset of cold weather, the grafted plants must be covered with earth approximately 7 cm above the budding, and in early spring they must be planted slightly below the grafting site. The upper part of the rootstock, departing about 1 cm from the graft, is cut into a spike and the budding film is removed. After a couple of weeks, the bud begins to actively develop and a shoot appears. To form a bush, we pinch the shoots above the third or fourth leaf.

by layering , but this method is best suited for ground cover and climbing roses. In spring, a one-year-old stem is bent from the bush. In the part that will be in the ground, make a small cut in the bark directly at the eye, which will stimulate root formation. Then the stem is bent to the ground, placed in a groove 10 cm deep, pinned, covered with fertile soil and watered regularly. The upper part of the stem with two or three buds should be above the ground in a vertical position. To stimulate tillering, the stem is pinched during growth. Next spring, the cuttings can be separated from the mother bush and replanted. Offspring. This is how park own-rooted roses are usually propagated, which are capable of producing root suckers that form during a period of intensive growth and extend from the main bush in the form of vertical shoots. In the spring, after the soil has thawed, they are dug up, processed and planted in another place. Dividing the bush is the optimal way to propagate mainly climbing, park and miniature roses. In early spring, when the buds have not yet begun to grow, the bush is dug up and divided into parts. The root system must be preserved on each part. Then the plants are planted in a permanent place. Cuttings are the simplest and most affordable method of propagation. Well suited for climbing, miniature, groundcover, scrub, grandiflora, and some hybrid tea roses. There are several types of cuttings: green cuttings, lignified and root cuttings. Green cuttings are also called summer cuttings. Roses are propagated during the budding period. Well-developed, but not too thick annual shoots from flowering, semi-lignified shoots during the flowering period are suitable. Using a sharp knife, cuttings 5–8 cm long, with two or three buds, are cut from them. The bottom leaf is removed and an oblique cut is made under its bud at a distance of 1.5–2 mm. The upper cut is made 1 cm above the bud. Next, the cuttings are treated with any fungicide to prevent fungal diseases, and then with a substance that stimulates root formation. You can root cuttings in greenhouses or indoors in pots under glass jars or glasses. The prepared substrate is treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The cuttings are planted at an angle to a depth of 1.5–2 cm at a distance of 3–6 cm from each other, and the rows are planted at 8–10 cm. The optimal air temperature for successful rooting is 22–25 °C with a humidity of 80–90%. Periodically, the cuttings must be sprayed, but not over-moisten the soil, so that the cuttings do not die from waterlogging. As soon as the first leaves appear, the jars are removed and the cuttings are gradually hardened. When the bush becomes stronger, it is transplanted to a permanent place. Propagation by lignified cuttings. Well suited for climbing and miniature roses. Lignified cuttings are harvested in the fall, during pruning of roses. For harvesting, take well-developed and ripened, smooth annual stems 4–5 mm thick. The upper part of the shoot is removed. The cuttings are cut with a sharp knife or well-sharpened pruning shears, up to 20 cm long, with three to four buds each. The cut at the lower end of the cutting is made just under the bud; in the upper part of the cutting, the cut should be made obliquely in the middle of the internodes (at an equal distance between the buds). The cuttings are tied into bundles, arranged according to variety, wrapped in burlap and stored in damp sand until spring at a temperature of 1–2 °C. In the spring they are taken out, the sections are renewed and immediately lowered into water. Having taken it out of the water, plant it obliquely in the soil and water it. Only the upper bud remains visible. After planting, the cuttings are covered with jars or film. When the cutting takes root, the shelter is removed. Propagation by semi-lignified cuttings is carried out when the wood at the base of young shoots begins to ripen, harden and the bark turns brown. For cuttings, use the middle part of semi-lignified shoots at the flowering stage. Cuttings are harvested 7–10 cm long with 2-3 leaves. Before planting the cuttings, the substrate is watered. The prepared cuttings are planted in the ground to a depth of 1.5–2 cm. The boxes are placed in a dark place and covered with film. During the rooting period, high air humidity, optimal temperature (20–22 °C), and diffuse sunlight are important. Cuttings take root in 3-4 weeks. Root cuttings are prepared from the underground parts of suckers that remain in the ground in the form of rhizomes, or from the underground parts of rose bushes. The collected rhizomes are temporarily buried in a basement or empty greenhouse, and in November they are cut into pieces 3–cm long, placed in boxes filled with soil, and leaf humus is added. Sprinkle about 1 cm of earth on top. For the winter, the boxes are put in a cool place. The soil should be moderately moist. In early spring, boxes with cuttings are placed in a cold greenhouse, where their root system begins to develop and green shoots with leaves appear. In April, the cuttings are planted in a greenhouse or soil.

note

Usually in the first year all cuttings still have a weak and shallow root system. Therefore, in winter it is better to store them in a basement or cellar at a temperature of 0–5 °C. And only in spring are roses planted in beds for growing or in a permanent place. You can feed young seedlings from cuttings with mineral fertilizers only when they take root and begin to grow.

Watering roses

In summer, roses are watered with settled and heated water: twice a week for young bushes, once for adults. After watering and loosening, mulching is done - the ground around the bushes is covered with a 5–8 cm layer of loose organic material. This will prevent evaporation and retain moisture in the soil during summer drought, reducing the number of weeds.

The structure of a rose bush

1. Flower. 2. Escape with a flower. 3. Bud. 4. Fruit. 5. Imparipinnate leaf. 6. Five-lobed leaf. 7. Young one-year shoot. 8. Perennial woody shoot. 9. Axillary bud (eye). 10. Wild shoot or top from the rootstock. 11. Place of vaccination. 12. Root collar. 13. Rhizome. 14. Main root. 15. Lateral roots. A rose bush consists of an above-ground part - the crown, and an underground part - the root system. The crown consists of last year's shoots, which are called skeletal shoots. Shoots formed from their buds in the current season are designated as first order shoots. In turn, shoots of the second order are formed from their buds, etc. In most varieties of roses, powerful replacement shoots (wen) grow from the lower buds of last year's shoots or from the root collar. In subsequent years they will form the basis of the bush. At the end of summer, the rose bush is represented by skeletal shoots and one-year shoots - I, II and III orders. The root system of roses is fibrous and, as a rule, goes into the soil to a depth of 50–60 cm.

Rose diseases

The most common rose diseases are powdery mildew, rust and black spot. Powdery mildew on roses is a disease that affects young shoots, leaves, and buds. They become covered with a white coating, the leaves curl, and the shoots become bent. To cure a plant, in the fall all affected shoots must be cut off, the leaves burned, and the soil dug up. In the spring, dormant buds are sprayed with 2% copper sulfate (200 g per 10 liters of water) or 3% iron sulfate (300 g per 10 liters of water). Rust on roses. This diagnosis is given to a rose if rusty spots appear on it, and on its lower part there are bright orange pads (an accumulation of fungal spores), which turn black by autumn and the leaves fall off. Shoots affected by rust are pruned. In early spring, before the buds open, the plants and soil around them are sprayed with any fungicide containing copper. In summer, spray with 1% Bordeaux mixture (100 g per 10 liters of water) or treat with the drug. Black spot on roses are small round brown or black spots with a yellow halo. Over time, they merge, covering almost the entire leaf blade and causing premature leaf fall. When a disease is detected, diseased fallen leaves are immediately collected and burned. In autumn, plants are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (40 g of potassium salt and double superphosphate per 10 liters of water), watering only at the roots. And in the spring, before the buds bloom, the bushes and the soil around are sprayed with 2-3% Bordeaux mixture (200–300 g per 10 l of water) or 3% iron sulfate (300 g per 10 l of water).

Rose pests

Pests are a big problem for roses. The most common of them are: rose aphid, spider mite, scale insect, rose sawfly. Rose aphid. Larvae and adult insects settle on leaves and ends of shoots, suck sap and cause deformation. In damaged plants, the buds do not open. The pest develops in ten or more generations. To prevent the progression of the disease, the plant is provided with an influx of fresh air and the dosage of nitrogen-containing preparations is observed. If the leaves are affected, they are removed and the plant is sprayed with a soap solution or nettle infusion. Avoid the use of chemicals. Thrips. These flying insects suck the juice from the buds that are ready to bloom. Damaged petals become deformed and brown spots appear on them. Spider mite. When a mite appears, a cobweb is visible on the underside of the leaf, and the top is covered with yellow dots. Method of control: treatment with a decoction of field ivy, acaricides Sunmite and Caesar. Scale insects can settle in both dry and wet areas. It leaves a discharge on the plant, on which fungus subsequently appears. Control method: treatment with paraffin or mineral oil. To combat thrips, spider mites and scale insects, plants are treated with infusions and solutions. Rose sawfly. Its larvae overwinter in the soil under rose bushes in a silk cocoon. In June, adult sawflies emerge from the pupae, and the female lays eggs under the skin of the young shoot. In these places the skin cracks and the shoot becomes bent. The larvae feed on leaves, eating them from the edges without touching the veins. Method of control: if a plant is damaged by a sawfly, treat the bushes with a solution of one of the following drugs: “Fufanon” (10 g per 10 l of water), “Inta-Vir” or “Iskra” (1 tablet per 10 l of water). Preventive spraying is carried out before buds open. In the fall, you should collect and burn all plant debris and dig up the ground under the bushes.

Sheltering roses for the winter

In September, watering and fertilizing are reduced. Before covering (before frost), it is better to remove (cut) the leaves. Roses are covered by hilling up to a height of 40 cm with earth, or they are wrapped in agrofibre. Climbing roses are removed, placed on material that will protect the shoots from moisture, and wrapped. Standard roses are bent to the ground before wrapping. Almost all varieties of park roses do not need shelter.

Fertilizer and feeding

Since roses can grow in one place for many years, before planting the soil is well-dressed with fertilizers - 6-8 kg of humus, up to 200 g of wood ash, up to 20 g of superphosphate and 30-40 g of potassium salt are added for each square meter. Roses should be fed with mineral fertilizers when the seedlings take root and begin to grow. At the end of May - beginning of June, you can apply nitrogen fertilizer (15–20 g/m2), at the end of June and July - nitrophoska (20 g/m2), in August - superphosphate (40 g/m2) and potassium salt (20 g /m2). This is the main feeding before flowering. If the rose was fertilized with nitrogen-containing preparations, then from mid-July they are no longer applied. Until mid-July, roses are fertilized with magnesium sulfate (20 g/10 l). This is the time for cutting roses.

Author: Tatyana Uminskaya

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The universal rule for distance between roses

When is the best time to plant roses in open ground?

There is no universal rule to help you calculate at what distance to plant roses. It all depends on the size of the bush and the features of caring for it.

Growing roses on supports

It often happens that a rose bush grows from a seedling much larger than expected. Therefore, it is advisable to leave more free space. There should be enough space so that you can bend the bush to the ground and cover it for the winter. In other words, the distance between rose bushes should correspond to their height.

Important! If the roses become too crowded, the bushes need to be planted further away.

Crowding will destroy any plants, so they must be planted at a sufficient distance from each other. The length of these gaps may vary depending on the size of the bush and the growth rate of its branches.

How to plant a rose in the ground correctly (with video)

Before planting roses correctly, you need to dig holes about 40x40x30 cm so that the roots can fit freely in them. Larger holes are prepared for large bush and climbing roses. If the roots bend in a small hole when planting, the plants will develop poorly, bloom poorly and are more likely to get sick. After digging a hole, place the rose in it and determine if the hole is deep enough.

If mineral fertilizers were added to the bottom of the planting hole, mix them with the soil, taking care that the roots do not get burned by them until they begin to grow.

As shown in the photo, for planting roses, it is better to add organic fertilizers (humus, compost) to the soil with which you will fill the planting hole:

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If the soil in the garden is poor, well-rotted organic matter can completely fill the hole around the plant. As the soil is filled, it is carefully compacted, but so as not to damage the roots and branches of the plant. Having filled the hole 2/3 full, water it abundantly, when the water is absorbed, fill the soil to the top, leaving a hole for vegetation watering (when planting in spring). And when planting in the fall, they immediately hill up the rose to 15-20 cm.

When planting budding roses in the ground, the grafting site is buried 5-7 cm below ground level. This protects the bushes from being oppressed by rose hips and makes caring for roses much easier.

The best time for planting is early autumn, but planting is also possible in early spring, before the buds open.

When caring for standard roses after planting, the bushes are immediately tied to a peg for stability. It is installed in the hole when planting the plant, so as not to damage the roots later. The peg should reach the beginning of the crown. The garter is made with a loop like a figure eight so that the bole does not touch the peg, but is kept at a close distance from it.

As you can see in the photo, when planting and caring for roses, the trunks in the upper part should be tied especially firmly:

Features of planting different types of roses

The answer to the question: how to plant roses depends greatly on their variety. In order for the plants in the garden to actively grow and develop, it is worth taking into account all the features and nuances of their planting.

climbing roses

the grafting site of the seedling is buried 10 cm;
shoots are not pruned, but slightly renewed;
plants are planted next to a support (arch, column, trellis);
the distance between seedlings should be at least 1 - 1.5 m.

How to prepare rose seedlings for planting

So, the seedlings of the varieties you have chosen have been purchased, the place for the roses has been chosen, what next? Please follow these important steps before planting.

Release the seedling from its packaging. Carefully remove the protective material, being careful not to damage the plant. You can plant a seedling together with a packaging net only if this is provided by the manufacturer (biodegradable packaging material).

Straighten the roots and inspect them carefully. If you find signs of disease, treat the seedling with any biofungicide. Cut off damaged, dry roots; update the sections of healthy ones, trimming them by 1-2 cm so that the healthy white core is visible. Subsequently, this will allow the plant to better absorb nutrients. Shorten roots that are too long to 30-35 cm.

Trim shoots if necessary. Planting roses in open ground in spring also involves pruning the shoots of the seedling. If the branches are tied, free them by carefully removing the rubber band. Inspect the shoots, remove broken and thinnest ones. Trim very long branches to a height of 30-35 cm. Leave only the strongest branches on the bush and trim them to 2-7 buds, depending on the type (see below).

Cut the shoot at an angle of 45 degrees above the outer bud (it is directed away from the center of the seedling), retreating 0.5 cm from it. If the seedlings have been in the heat for too long and they have sprouted light, weak and thin shoots, remove them.

If the stems are covered with paraffin (used to retain moisture), before planting, clean the shoots with a wooden toothpick so that the plant can “breathe more freely.” Draw a longitudinal line - the wax will begin to “lag behind” the bark of the seedling. Using a toothpick, carefully pick up the layer of wax, lifting it up.

Some sources advise removing wax from the seedling using a piece of soft cloth. In practice, this is quite difficult to do, so we recommend using a toothpick.

Opinions differ on whether wax should be removed from seedlings or not. Some say that this is an unnecessary hassle and the wax will crack on its own when the shoots begin to grow. Others claim that wax prevents the germination of buds and, on top of everything, melts in the sun and burns the germinating buds. It's up to you to decide what to do. However, if you live in the southern region or this spring has been warm and sunny this year, we recommend cleaning the shoots before planting.

Soak the roots of the seedlings. To replenish the lack of moisture, dip the roots of the seedlings (up to the root collar) for 2-3 hours in water or in a solution of any growth stimulant (prepare the drug according to the instructions).

Then, to disinfect, immerse the roots of the seedlings for 20 minutes in a solution of copper sulfate.

Rules for planting roses in a summer cottage

Almost every gardener knows how to plant roses in spring. This process is not at all complicated, but it requires compliance with certain rules.

What month is best to plant?

Rose is a light-loving plant. Even if it grows in the shade, it will not please you with abundant and bright flowering. It is advisable that where the rose is planted, the sun from the east prevails, which will quickly dry the dew on it. This will lead to a reduction in plant diseases.

Particular attention is paid to soil moisture. Therefore, the landing site should be high so that there is no stagnation of water on it.

How to select and prepare seedlings

When choosing healthy seedlings, attention is paid to:

the presence of three developed shoots and healthy roots;
bark The plant should be dense and without any plaque;
The seedlings may have leaves, but there should not be elongated or weak shoots.

Attention: rose bushes take root best when they are 2-3 years old.

Purchased seedlings in pots are, in principle, completely ready for planting. They must have a well-developed root system, and to replant the plant it is enough to simply remove the roots with a lump of soil and soak them in water for several hours (from 4 to 12 hours). If the roots of the plant are too long, they can be slightly trimmed and treated with special products.