“Flame” in the garden, or 9 rules for caring for phlox in open ground

Beginning gardeners prefer to plant unpretentious plants on their plots that are able to grow “anywhere and everywhere”, not paying attention to the composition of the soil, lighting and humidity. These garden flowers also include perennial phlox. They are not only not capricious, but also beautiful, and are also able to stand for a long time when cut, maintaining their splendor, brightness and freshness.

Caring for phlox is easy, they bloom for a long time and are not afraid of frost. Let's talk about this in more detail, and you will see for yourself and perhaps want to plant these wonderful flowers in your garden.

Perennial phlox - botanical description

The homeland of phlox is Canada, and it was from there that they spread throughout the world. This is a beautiful flowering plant, very bright and showy. Depending on the variety, it blooms starting in mid-spring. The flowering time is very long - 30-35 days. If you choose the right varieties, you can enjoy lush color all season long.

The root system of phlox is superficial. From the main rhizome grows many adventitious, highly branching thin roots; they barely penetrate twenty centimeters deep.

The stems are slender and erect, but can also be creeping in groundcover species. The short ones reach a height of ten to fifteen centimeters, the tall ones can grow up to one and a half meters.

The flowers are small, funnel-shaped, with five petals. They are bent almost at right angles to the flower-bearing tube and form a flat, wide corolla. The core contains one pistil and five stamens. The colors are varied - from white to dark purple.

The flowers are collected in candle inflorescences. Thanks to the large number (up to ninety pieces in one inflorescence), the flowers look like a flaming, lush torch.

The leaves are sessile, located opposite each other. Their shape is oval or lanceolate.

Transfer

Important details:

• The optimal period for moving perennials to another site is the end of April - the first ten days of May. It is important that the soil warms up well, accumulates enough moisture, and frosts stop. Don’t hesitate: the spring replanting interval is quite short - from one to one and a half weeks. After moving to a new area, phlox actively takes root and suffers less pain than with the same procedure carried out in the fall.
• If the gardener did not have time to move the plants in the spring, then the moment cannot be missed in late August - early September. Renewal buds form in mid-flowering and early varieties closer to the end of summer.
• When planting in holes, make sure that the buds are below ground level. An important nuance is the distance between neighboring specimens. The interval depends on the variety: low-growing - about 30 cm, medium-growing - half a meter, high phlox (1 m or more) - about 70 cm.
• Late varieties are replanted from the second decade of September to the first days of October. You should not experiment and move phloxes to a new area after November 10–15: the flowers are unlikely to take root before the cold weather, and there is a high risk of soil freezing and death of phloxes.

Every 4–6 years, a new place is selected for ornamental plants. In this case, the soil will not be too depleted.

Types and varieties of plants

Phlox has about 85 varieties, half of which are cultural and decorative. Under natural conditions, most species grow in North America, and in our country only Siberian phlox can be found in the wild.

The most popular annual plant is Drummond's phlox, named after the Scottish botanist who brought the flower to England. It is well cultivated and has many varieties with varied corolla colors.

Now let's look at the most popular perennial varieties of phlox among flower growers with photos and names.

Phlox paniculata

The most common type of phlox, which is found in almost every garden. It begins to bloom at the beginning of summer and pleases with flowers all season long. It has very large inflorescences of a wide variety of colors, including “spotted” multicolors. But this species does not have yellow colors.

The shrub is quite large, reaching a height of half a meter to a meter and even higher. At the ends of the densely leafy shoots, of which there are more than twenty, lush “candles” of inflorescences bloom. They are very fragrant and bright, do not fade in the bright sun and are not afraid of shading.

This species prefers well-drained soil, moderate watering and good air circulation. They are not recommended to be planted close to buildings that protect them from drafts, and in no case should they be mulched in the summer.

Varieties and hybrids:

• "Amethyst" - has bluish-purple petals, blooms in July-August;
• "Blue Paradise" - lavender flowers with a blue center, smells very pleasant, blooms at the end of summer, reaches a height of 1 m 20 cm;
• "Bright Eyes" - soft pink flowers with a bright core, a very unpretentious variety, resistant to fungal infections;
• “David” - a titled variety with an award from English flower growers, has very lush snow-white inflorescences, is absolutely unpretentious and never gets sick;
• "Delilah" - bright pink, almost purple flowers form neat inflorescences, bloom in July-September;
• "Candy Twist" - two-color striped flowers of white and pink shades, smells good, does not fade in the sun and is resistant to disease;
• “Sandro Botticelli” - bred by a Russian breeder and worthy of the brush of a famous artist, has purple and pink petals.

Phlox subulate

A dwarf species with low ten to fifteen centimeter shoots. Its second name is turf phlox. Each stem produces many side branches, the plant grows well and covers the entire garden bed with a flowering carpet.

The inflorescences are small, consist of several flowers - no more than four, but are located very densely, the leaves are practically invisible behind them. True, the leaves are small, like needles. They are leathery and dense to the touch.

Photo: https://pixabay.com/photos/phlox-plant-pink-polemoniaceae-3398370/

The colors are delicate, pastel - light lilac or mauve. Flowering begins early, in late spring.

This type is widely used in landscape design. The plant tolerates being pruned well and can be used to form compositions with various geometric shapes.

Varieties and hybrids:

• "Bonita" - bright pink flowers with a purple eye. This hybrid is not afraid of either heat or frost;
• “Candy Stripes” – very variegated, with a wide bright pink stripe on a white background, and the middle is dark purple;
• "Early Spring Blue" - lavender-blue flowers bloom in April and cover the ground with a dense carpet.

Phlox splayed

Its second name is Canadian. The shrub is medium-sized, reaching a height of forty to fifty centimeters. It has very large flowers of white or bluish-purple hue. The inflorescences are umbrella-shaped, their diameter can exceed ten centimeters. Flowering begins in late spring or early summer.

This species does not like peaty and deciduous soil; it prefers light soil with the addition of humus. In order for it to feel good, it does not need to be fed with manure or peat.

Varieties and hybrids:

• 'Clouds of Perfume' is a low-growing, turfy shrub that forms a mat of lavender flowers. Blooms in April or May. If not properly cared for, it may suffer from powdery mildew and nematodes;
• "London Grove" - ​​from a distance it resembles a scattering of forget-me-nots. Unpretentious, resistant to diseases, grows well;
• "Fuller's White" - has white petals with a slightly lilac tint. It is very frost-resistant, it is not afraid of frosts down to -40 ° C.
• "Eco Texas Purple" - dark purple corollas with a pink eye. They bloom relatively late - in June.

Features of agricultural technology and secrets of growing phlox

The microclimate of the site, in particular lighting, is of great importance for the successful cultivation of paniculate phlox; wind direction and strength; soil structure; proper care; control of weeds, pests and diseases.

The peculiarities of growing phlox are that these flowers, like most representatives of the Sinyukhov family, prefer well-lit places, however, they tolerate short-term light shading.

There are varieties whose flowers can sometimes burn white in the sun, losing their attractiveness. According to the agricultural technology for growing such phloxes, when planting, it is necessary to select areas that will be protected from direct sunlight during the midday hours. Next, you can learn all the secrets of growing phlox in your garden plot near your home and in your country house.

For some varieties of phlox paniculata with smoky colored flowers, you also have to select places where their unique color will appear brighter.

So, for example, varieties:

'Gray Lady'

'Secret' will look more impressive in partial shade.

Sometimes there are varieties of bush phlox that have weak shoots. Such phloxes must be protected from the wind when growing and caring for them. They will be more comfortable in areas surrounded by bushes or trees; You can also use the “services” of curtain plants.

When choosing a place to grow phlox, you should not forget that plants planted on the north side of the site bloom later. This also applies to phloxes that grow under the canopy of tall trees. In the northern regions, it is advisable to choose well-lit areas for late-flowering bush phlox varieties.

Look at growing phlox in the photo, which shows all the main agrotechnical measures:

Planting and care in open ground

These flowers are much easier to grow than any other plants. A minimum of labor, practically no care, and in the spring - lush flowering bushes. Tempting?

In order for phlox, which is really very easy to care for, to grow and bloom well, some conditions will still have to be met. First of all, let us remember that the plants come from North America, which means they need to create conditions that are as close to natural as possible.

Choosing a landing time

Depending on the variety, phlox is planted either in early spring, as soon as the soil thaws, or in early autumn. This applies to seedlings with an open root system. It is worth knowing that these flowers prefer a “cold start”, that is, the roots begin to develop and actively grow during the cold period. Therefore, in the spring they are planted at a temperature of +3-5 °C, but care must be taken that the soil is not too wet.

Photo: https://pixabay.com/photos/no-filter-moss-phlox-flowers-3678552/

You can replant flowers from pots and flowerpots at any time, using the transfer method, that is, the root system is not freed from the old earthen ball, but is planted in a hole dug in advance.

Selection of location and soil

Phlox are unpretentious and can grow on any soil, but it is better if the soil is well-drained and loamy. Adding lime will have a beneficial effect on plant growth.

Flowers do not like stagnant moisture and insufficient oxygen supply. They will feel great on hills, rocky alpine hills, and high beds. But the lowlands, where melt water accumulates in the spring and puddles form during rains, are not the best place for planting.

Try not to plant phlox under trees that have a shallow root system, otherwise there will be constant competition between plants for moisture and nutrition. The victory will definitely go to the strongest, and it is unlikely to be a flower.

Phloxes are recommended to be planted in sunny, well-lit areas. It is advisable not to plant flowers close to walls to ensure air circulation. If the variety has flowers that are prone to fading, then it is recommended to plant it in a shaded area.

In the sun, flowers will have more lush inflorescences than in the shade, but they will also bloom five to ten days earlier.

Landing rules

The soil must be prepared in advance. If you are planting spring varieties, then in the fall you need to dig up the soil well, at least to the size of a shovel, and fertilize it with a large amount of organic matter - humus. For one square meter of bed you need to add at least two buckets of rotted compost.

If the soil is too heavy, mix it with coarse river sand to improve its permeability.

The prepared bed is watered abundantly and given at least two weeks for shrinkage, otherwise the plant may go deeper, which is undesirable, since the root system is superficial.

The plant is not buried deeply; renewal buds should be buried three to five centimeters in the ground.

If you bought phlox, it is recommended to plant them for at least a year or two not in a general flower garden, but in a quarantine bed to prevent infection of other plants. And only when you are sure that the flowers are completely healthy and have no unpleasant “surprises”, they can be planted along with other crops.

Dwarf and low-growing species are very difficult to tolerate weeds in the first year after planting; be sure to remove them by the roots and thoroughly clean the soil of rhizomes until the plants get stronger.

Photo: https://pixabay.com/photos/tufted-phlox-phlox-columbia-flowers-762651/

Air humidity

Phlox tolerate dry air very well, especially if they are well watered. On especially hot days, they need to be sprayed with a spray bottle, avoiding water getting on the inflorescences. This procedure should be done only in the evening, after sunset, so that the sun's rays combined with water do not burn the tender leaves.

Temperature

The most favorable temperature regime for growing phlox is +18-23 °C, but they can easily withstand temperature changes, drought and frost.

Currently, many varieties have been developed that are adapted to our climatic conditions. Flowers can be planted even in northern regions, where the climate is quite harsh - wet, cold winters and dry summers. But if there is little snow in winter, then the plant needs to be protected from frost.

Watering

Phloxes are watered after sunset quite abundantly, but rarely - no more than once or twice a week. On hot, dry days, watering is increased.

Water is poured directly under the roots, avoiding contact with flowering inflorescences. You need to pour at least two buckets of water under each bush.

Fertilizer

For active growth, phlox must be fed, carefully loosened the soil after moistening and weeded.

Even in early spring, when the snow just begins to melt, the bushes can be sprinkled with wood ash. Together with melt water, it will penetrate into all the “pores” of the flower, promote good growth and at the same time serve as a preventative against diseases.

The first fertilizing is applied during shoot growth. Organic fertilizers are best suited for this. For several bushes you need to take a bucket of compost and mix it with two tablespoons of urea, then sprinkle the mixture around the bushes.

The next feeding is carried out during the formation of buds. For more luxuriant flowering, phloxes are fed with liquid mineral fertilizers for beautifully flowering plants.

After the phlox has flowered, it needs feeding with superphosphate or a solution of potassium sulfate - a tablespoon per bucket of water.

Pruning and crown formation

There is no need to prune phloxes during the season, except that you should regularly cut off faded inflorescences so as not to interfere with the formation of new flowers. Sanitary pruning is also carried out periodically, weak, dry and diseased shoots are removed.

Photo: https://pixabay.com/photos/phlox-flame-flower-flower-1525589/

Ground cover varieties are sometimes pruned to create decorative shapes.

In October-November, before the first frost, phloxes are prepared for wintering by cutting off the stems at the root or leaving shoots of ten to twelve centimeters.

To prevent infection with fungal diseases, after pruning, the soil around the bushes is sprayed with fungicides.

Care after flowering

In mid-autumn, flowers need to be prepared for winter. Phlox should go into winter well watered and fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Be sure to trim the stems, preferably to the very root. Cut branches should be burned, since small insect pests often spend the winter there.

To prevent phlox from becoming infected with fungal diseases, preventive spraying with fungicides is carried out in October.

Then the bushes are hilled up and covered with seven to ten centimeters of humus to protect the delicate underground buds from frost. This is especially true for young seedlings planted this year.

If winters have little snow, the plant may die. Growth buds freeze out at a temperature of -10 °C in just two weeks. But flowers covered for the winter, and even under a good layer of snow, can withstand frost down to -35-40 ° C. Therefore, be guided by your climatic conditions and cover the phloxes if necessary.

Autumn care and preparation for winter

After flowering ends, the stems of phlox are cut off. Shortly before the onset of cold weather, the stems are cut off at the root. Plants are fed with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers or an autumn fertilizer complex, and you can also add wood ash.

The plants are covered with a layer of mulch, for which compost or humus is used. Phlox are very frost-resistant plants and do not require additional shelter for the winter.

Phlox propagation

There can never be too many of these beautiful flowers! Moreover, friends and acquaintances often ask to give them a “sprout” so that they can plant such beauty in their garden.

Perennial phlox can grow in one place for more than fifteen years, but over time, the central part of the bush ages and requires rejuvenation or replanting. It is advisable to do this every five to seven years by dividing the bush. This procedure is quite a serious test for the plant, so to propagate your favorite varieties, you can use the cutting method, layering, or even planting seeds.

Cuttings

Cuttings are a simple and uncomplicated way to propagate plants. Cuttings cut at the end of May or in August-September are guaranteed to take root. It is advisable to take the middle part of the shoot with two internodes.

Young shoots six to ten centimeters long are cut off and completely dipped in water - this allows them to be saturated with moisture and adapt faster in the first days after planting. “Bathing” cuttings should not exceed one hour.

The lower leaves are removed from the shoots, and the upper ones are cut in half so that they do not draw extra strength and nutrition for their life support. The seedling should devote its main energy to the development of roots.

Planting is done in a shaded place to a depth of no more than one or two centimeters. Autumn cuttings are covered with a greenhouse - a glass jar. Rooting will occur in two to three weeks, you will immediately notice it, as young shoots will appear on the stem.

Photo: https://www.flickr.com/photos/calliope/28872797/

When transplanting to a permanent place, the seedlings are well deepened into the ground so that the buds do not freeze and active growth of young shoots begins in the spring. Phlox will bloom in the spring after wintering.

Dividing the bush

Every few years, a heavily overgrown bush is replanted by division. This allows you to rejuvenate it by removing old branches and achieve more luxuriant flowering. The date of planting does not matter, but it is desirable that the flower has already bloomed, so planting phlox in the fall is more preferable - you will have time to enjoy the flowering plant.

The bush is dug up, and all its branches are cut off - no more than ten to fifteen centimeters should be left. Old, weak and dry shoots are completely removed. Next, the bush is divided into several parts, but make sure that each part has at least two renewal buds left.

The holes are prepared in advance so that the soil has time to settle. They need to be dug up at least two weeks before planting. For active growth, pour half a bucket of humus (compost), a glass of wood ash and mineral fertilizers into them. If planting is carried out in the fall, then fertilizers containing nitrogen are not applied.

Next, you need to pour a sufficient amount of water into the holes, wait until it is absorbed into the ground, and plant the divisions. Renewal buds should be covered with soil by at least three to five centimeters.

Bends

This is the easiest way to propagate phlox. A young, healthy shoot is bent to the ground, secured with pins and buried in the middle. In this place, after a couple of weeks, new roots will form and young shoots will appear - layering, which are then separated from the mother bush and transplanted to a separate place.

Seeds

Planting seeds also gives good germination. They are sown in late autumn directly into open ground. Dig up the bed and prepare it in advance. Plant the seeds at a distance of five to seven centimeters from each other and cover with a centimeter layer of pre-sifted soil. In the spring, young seedlings will need to be pricked at a distance of twenty centimeters, but only after two pairs of leaves appear.

If you didn’t manage to plant it on time, then this can be done at home, but after planting, the containers need to be taken outside so that the seeds overwinter in natural conditions and not in the heat.

Top dressing when caring for phlox in spring

Phlox grow quickly and require a lot of nutrients; therefore, plants should be fed in early spring, then at the time of budding (the phase of the beginning of inflorescence formation) and at the beginning of flowering. When caring for phlox in the spring, you can use organic and mineral fertilizers as fertilizers.

In the spring, overwintered phlox begin to grow due to the reserves of nutrients in the rhizome, but already in the first stages, they need nitrogen nutrition. Therefore, when the flowers of the industry are approximately 5 cm (the “brush” phase), it is recommended, as part of the care of phlox in the spring, to carry out dry fertilizing with ammonium nitrate, in the grooves at a distance of 10 cm from the bush or in the aisles (can be scattered) at the rate of 25 - 30 g per 1 sq. m. When caring for phlox, fertilizing is applied only to moist soil.

In summer feeding, during the budding period, potassium and phosphorus should prevail. Potassium affects the resistance of plants to diseases, heat, cold, and the brightness of the color of flowers. Phosphorus enhances root growth and strengthens shoots. But it should be remembered that the effect of phosphorus has a beneficial effect only in the presence of nitrogen.

A month before the end of the growing season, nitrogen fertilizers should be eliminated. You should always be extremely careful with them. Nitrogen stimulates the growth of green mass, but we should not forget that due to excess nitrogen, phlox can be more susceptible to diseases, cracking and lodging of shoots.

Phloxes are especially responsive to organic matter. To achieve the best effect, it is recommended to alternate organic fertilizers with mineral ones.

It is very useful to add wood ash under the phloxes. Adding it to the “diet” will enhance the brightness of the color of flowers due to the potassium it contains and will relieve many problems. Ash does not only contain nitrogen, but it contains all the macro- and microelements. The dose of ash is 100 - 200 g per 1 sq. m.

To prepare an ash solution, pour 300 - 500 g of ash into two liters of water, boil for no more than 10 minutes, cool, strain and dilute in 10 liters of water. It can also be used as foliar feeding.

Ash solution is also used as a pest control agent. It has a sterilizing effect, in other words, it prevents the proliferation of many types of pests. Stove ash is very valuable, especially birch ash - this is the “golden” fertilizer for phlox. However, everything should be in moderation; you should not be too zealous with ash, so as not to increase the pH of the soil. It is worth noting that phloxes prefer foliar feeding than root feeding.

Weeding is one of the mandatory maintenance techniques. Many weeds are intermediate hosts of the fungus Erysiphe cichoraceamm f. phbgis, which causes powdery mildew, as well as rust and other fungi. Therefore, timely removal of weeds significantly reduces the risk of phlox infection. You should carefully destroy thistle, sow thistle, dandelion, creeping wheatgrass, shepherd's purse, horse sorrel, and acorn grass. Uprooted weeds are collected and taken outside the site.

The known chemical method of weed control is effective only in destroying their seedlings. Seeds in the soil, even when using herbicides, can remain viable for several years.

This necessitates repeated treatments with chemicals, which can lead to the accumulation of residual amounts of drugs and the death of planted plants. Since the rate of decomposition of herbicides used on flower crops has been little studied, this method of weed control should not be abused.

Diseases and pests

Like any garden plants, phlox flowers can be attacked by parasites that feed on sap.

These include:

• wire beetle;
• stem nematodes;
• spider mite;
• earwig;
• thrips;
• slugs;
• aphid.

If you notice that the flowers look sick, they have spots on the leaves, and the buds are drooping, then carefully inspect the plants for insect pests.

Spider mites and aphids can be easily destroyed by spraying with a strong soapy solution made from hot water and brown laundry soap. For the rest of the “living creatures” it is necessary to use more aggressive methods - insecticides.

Photo: https://pixabay.com/photos/cushion-phlox-blossom-bloom-plant-123151/

But you can avoid the use of harmful chemicals if you plant antagonistic plants between the phloxes, which serve both as bait for insects and as a trap. These include marigolds, calendula, garlic, dill, and white mustard.

Some varieties of phlox are susceptible to the following diseases.

• Powdery mildew is a fungal infection. You can get rid of it by spraying with ordinary skim milk with the addition of a few drops of iodine or a solution of soda ash and laundry soap.
• Septoria, or white spot. Light spots with dark edges appear on the leaves. Treatment is carried out first with traditional methods, and if it does not help, then with the help of fungicides.
• Phomasis is a fungal disease caused by Foma fungi. They first penetrate the root system and then completely infect the entire plant. A very dangerous disease, sometimes reaching epidemic proportions. There is no cure for it. For prevention in the spring, leaves and stems are sprinkled with colloidal sulfur.

We select conditions that are comfortable for bush phlox

Phlox, despite the fact that they are most often used as plants for decorating flower beds and flower beds, cannot be considered one of the most sun-loving garden crops. Their bright, cheerful palette, as well as the ability to produce an amazing number of inflorescences that completely hide the greenery on the bush, is preserved both in the brightest light and in partial shade of varying intensity.

Moreover, in light shade and in diffused light, phlox bloom much longer (in general, a month longer) than their counterparts exposed to heat and midday rays. This can be explained very simply: bush phlox love good lighting, but do not react too well to heat and heat.

For these plants, it is extremely important that the soil at the rhizome does not overheat, and heat always affects the plant's growth rate and ability to absorb nutrients, air and moisture from the soil. That is why in partial shade, where the soil under direct rays does not heat up so much, phlox always blooms more colorfully.

Phlox are not afraid of winds and drafts, but in areas with increased wind activity they often lie down and need a bandage.

Phlox smooth, 'Triple Play' variety.

Problems with flowers

Improper care can lead to some growing difficulties.

Landing

Phlox planting. To grow seedlings at home, you first need to prepare the soil. Mix peat, river sand and black soil in equal parts and add a little wood ash.

1. Select a planting box. Check that there are drainage holes at the bottom, otherwise make them yourself.
2. Prepare the soil mixture and pour it into the box. The depth of the mixture should be about 15cm.
3. Seed treatment is not required. Just scatter them evenly over the surface of the soil and lightly sprinkle with sand.
4. The finished seedlings are watered, covered with film, and stored in a well-lit place at room temperature.
5. Ventilate the seedlings every day, but no longer than 20 minutes. And also moisten the soil with a spray bottle.
6. With the appearance of the first shoots, the film is removed, and the box can be moved to a cooler place.
7. Picking is usually not required, and the shoots are immediately planted on the site.

Landing dates

There are two short periods for transplanting seedlings into open ground. The first period, as you understand at the beginning of the season: usually the end of April, the beginning of May. But most of our country is still covered with snow at this time. Therefore, the second period will be more suitable for Russia: from the beginning to mid-September.

Selection of cuttings

Propagation by cuttings is a fairly simple way to grow seedlings. You can purchase cuttings or make them yourself if you have a suitable plant for this. You should buy cuttings either on recommendation, or from a trusted seller, or in a specialized store - otherwise, there is a chance that you will end up with an unscrupulous seller who has violated the conditions for caring for the cuttings and is selling them already infected with fungi.

Landing rules

Rules:

• If the weather was dry a few days before transplanting and the soil had time to dry out, then instead of digging it up, it is necessary to water it generously and loosen it with a cultivator to a depth of about 15 cm.
• Layout of planting in rows. The distance between rows should be about 70cm, and between plants in a row about 40cm.
• In some cases, seedlings are arranged in clumps of no more than 6 seedlings per square meter.

We mulch the soil under phlox and fight weeds

Mulching should be a mandatory component of care for phlox. The mulch layer must be created anew every spring and then renewed, providing plants with additional protection from complete drying out of the soil, its compaction and at the same time lowering the soil temperature to create the most comfortable conditions for the development of rhizomes and the laying of powerful flower stalks.

A layer of mulch will also save you from weeding. But if you have not covered the soil under the bushes with a protective layer, take the time to fight weeds several times during the summer.

Interesting features

Phlox translates as “flame,” which is why phlox is often called a fire flower. The homeland of these plants is North America, but they have also taken root in Europe a long time ago - since the seventeenth century. Today, more than seventy species and about one and a half thousand varieties of perennial phlox are known - the gardener really has plenty to choose from.

The fire flower is actively used by landscape designers, as it is suitable for decorating a garden and local area in any style. True connoisseurs of ornamental plants love phlox for its diversity: there are inflorescences of absolutely any shade, varieties with different flowering periods and different heights of the bush.

Attention! There are so many varieties of phlox that it is quite possible to create a flower garden from these plants alone: ​​a well-designed flower bed will bloom from early summer until late autumn. Such flower beds are called floxariums.

Perennial phloxes have taken root in Russia due to their unique winter hardiness - they are one of the few flowers that can withstand severe frosts without shelter.