Caring for gloxinia: watering, planting, fertilizing, propagating gloxinia by seeds

Gloxinia is a houseplant that is very popular among gardeners and decorates the interior of any home. The plant was named after the doctor Peter Gloksin from Alsace, who was very passionate about botany.

Caring for gloxinia at home is not difficult, so flowerpots with the plant can be found on the windowsills of even a novice gardener.

Content

Place for gloxinia
Soil for gloxinia
Planting a tuber
Growing temperature
Air humidity
Watering gloxinia
Feeding with fertilizers
Gloxinia flowering
The rest period of gloxinia
Reproduction of Gloxinia
Growing problems
Gloxinia diseases
Gloxinia pests

From a botanical point of view, Gloxinia Sinningia, the taxonomy of Gesneriaceae has changed, but among flower growers, their favorite flowers are still called Gloxinia, Gloxinia and Gloxinia. Therefore, in order not to create confusion, we will keep the outdated name, but remember that its name is Sinningia the Beautiful - a popular indoor plant, unpretentious, blooming profusely.

Substrate for gloxinia

The soil should be breathable, but at the same time sufficiently nutritious. Approximate composition: leaf humus, high-moor peat, baking powder (perlite) in a ratio of 2:4:1. It is advisable to add superphosphate - 1 tsp. per 10 liters of soil. If the peat is fibrous and light, raising agents are not needed.

When growing with wick irrigation, when water or nutrient solution from the container rises along the cord, more raising agents are added to provide the roots with enough oxygen.

Know-how from the Nevsky House of Violets: to retain moisture, add 0.5 parts of Seramis clay granulate to the substrate.

Place for gloxinia

Gloxinia is photophilous, but it is better not to place it in direct sun, especially in the flowering phase, the flowers quickly fade and the flowering duration is greatly reduced.

In the spring, when the sun is not yet too hot, it will feel good on a southern window, but with the onset of June-July (depending on the climate zone), the plant will need to be moved to eastern or even western windows, or shaded from direct sunlight.

I do this: until the gloxinia grows and lays buds, it is in the brightest place, and when the first flowers bloom, I put it in a less lit and cooler place.

Gloxinia is a long-day plant; for normal growth and development it needs 12-14 hours of lighting of at least 5000 lux. With insufficient lighting, especially during the period of early growth, the plants become very elongated, which subsequently negatively affects the number of buds laid. There will be few of them, or maybe none at all. After the tuber has rooted and the leaves appear, the lighting should be as bright as possible, then the plant stem will be shorter, a lot of buds will form and gloxinia will delight you with abundant flowering. The intensity of the color of future flowers also depends on the illumination; in bright light, the flowers have a rich color, and in low light the color is noticeably paler.

Gloxinia line 'Brocade'

Signs of overflow and dryness

Everyone knows that when caring at home, stagnation of water can cause rotting of the tuber and roots. But overdrying of the substrate is considered almost a harmless phenomenon, since the crop tolerates it better. Both are unacceptable.

What does overflow look like and what to do?

Overmoistening of the soil for gloxinia is the most common cause of plant death. First signs:

buds do not open;
some leaves turn yellow and spots appear.

Then gloxinia withers, drops its vegetative organs, and even experienced gardeners may think that it is suffering from dryness. But after the next watering it only gets worse.

If the situation is not critical, take the earthen lump out of the pot, let it dry on newspaper for several days, and return it to the container.

When the leaves have turned into rags and lay on the edge of the pot, you need to save the tuber. It is freed from soil and checked for rotten areas. If necessary, clean it down to healthy tissue, sprinkle it with an antiseptic, and dry it for a day.

Then they are placed in a zip bag with a small amount of peat. Allow to rest for 3-4 weeks in a cool place. Planted again. Perhaps gloxinia will still bloom this season.

Signs of dryness, how to correct the situation

Overdrying the substrate rarely leads to the death of the plant - usually the owners have time to take action. Often it is enough:

water the flower in a tray or by immersion;
cover with a transparent bag;
place in partial shade for several days.

But if gloxinia is completely dry, this may not be enough. We have to:

cut off or unscrew the above-ground part;
let the tuber rest for a month in a cool place and in a sealed bag;
before planting, soak in the stimulant solution.

Soil for gloxinia

You can use a mixture of leaf, peat soil and sand (1:1:0.5), but the composition may be different, the main condition is that the soil is loose and breathable. Acidity pH 5.5 - 6.5; gloxinia grows poorly on more acidic soils and for this reason pure, non-deoxidized peat is not suitable for it. Before planting the plant, I strongly recommend disinfecting the soil. Now I use the drug Maxim (1 ampoule per 2 liters of water).

Wide and shallow dishes are more suitable for growing gloxinia. For young tubers, pots with a diameter of 7-10 cm are suitable, and for larger and older ones 11-15 cm. Pots can be either plastic or clay.

Classification of Gloxinia

To size

❀ Standard gloxinia: a rosette with a diameter of 25–40 cm. One of the largest synningias was about 60 cm in diameter and had about 100 flowers that bloomed at the same time! The diameter of the pot is 10–20 cm.

❀ Compact cloxinia: rosette diameter 15–25 cm, can produce up to 50 buds on one plant. The diameter of the pot is 10–15 cm.

❀ Miniature and microminiature gloxinia: diameter from 5 to 15 cm (gloxinia varieties Colorado Sunset, Ozark First Born). The diameter of the pot is 6–8 cm.

In catalogs you can see the definition of “semi-miniature” gloxinia: most likely, this is a way to emphasize the compactness of the rosette, by analogy with Saintpaulias.

1 photo - Gloxinia Pink Fairy Tale. 2. photo - gloxinia tidea violet, 3. photo - gloxinia Tigrina red

By color

❀ The color range of synningias is varied: flowers are found in white, lavender, red, purple, with tints and transitions. The varieties with specks, a multi-colored halo or a light yellow throat, with a contrasting border (they are conventionally called tigrina) are unusually beautiful.

Gloxinia Cherry

❀ There are “calico” (covered with specks of one or several colors), single-color and two-color varieties.

❀ Based on the shape of the flowers, there are simple (one row of petals, usually 5-8 pieces) and double (more than one row of petals) varieties.

Planting a tuber

In February - March, less often January (it all depends on the storage temperature) the tuber begins to germinate. If it was stored in a pot with old soil, you need to take it out and clean it of the remnants of last year’s roots and soil. Disinfect in a pink solution of potassium permanganate (30 min) or in any fungicide solution. For faster root formation, the tuber is soaked in a heteroauxin solution for 18-24 hours (making sure that the solution does not get into the recess of the tuber), but this is not necessary. The tuber is planted in the ground with the depression upward and sprinkled with soil no more than 1 cm. There must be drainage at the bottom of the pot (foam plastic, expanded clay, crushed stone chips, etc.). The higher the pot, the more drainage (up to 1/3).

During the period of tuber germination there are always the greatest losses and they are associated with waterlogging of the soil, as a result of which the tuber rots. Since the development of roots is preceded by the formation of the above-ground part, watering should be very careful along the edge of the pot or into the tray and only until the soil is lightly moistened. To avoid unwanted losses I do this:

I plant the tuber in moist soil level with it, place the pot in a bag and place it in a bright place without direct sunlight (22-25 degrees). I ventilate once a day for 10-15 minutes. After the first pair of leaves appear, I open the top of the bag and acclimate the young plant to room conditions for 3-4 days, then remove the bag completely. As the stem grows, I add soil and cover the tuber by 1-2 cm. While the plant is in the bag, there is no need to water it, the soil remains evenly moist and loose, increased air humidity and heat are maintained, the roots grow faster and there is almost no loss.

Propagation by leaf blades

Gloxinia can also be propagated by leaf blades. Care at home, carried out according to all the rules, will allow you to get a beautiful, spectacular plant. Propagation of gloxinia by leaf blades is a reliable way. The probability of success in this case is much higher.

If the grower has such an opportunity, he will propagate this plant with leaf blades. They are quite large in Gloxinia. Therefore, you will need to look for either a small sheet or divide it into parts. To do this, cut it crosswise with a sharp, clean knife. The movement is carried out parallel to the transversely located veins.

To grow a homemade gloxinia flower, you will need to shorten the leaf petiole. It should be no longer than 20 cm. If the knife is not sharp enough, the uneven edges of the cuts will begin to rot over time. It will be impossible to grow a flower from such material. Therefore, the procedure for creating cuts will need to be approached responsibly.

Each piece of leaf needs to be planted in an individual pot. A slightly moist substrate should be poured into them. The containers need to be installed in a small greenhouse. You can simply cover the containers with film. The greenhouse is installed in a bright, warm room in order to provide the necessary conditions for rooting. There is no need to ventilate or water the leaves for a month. They will take root during this time.

Next, you will need to gradually accustom the young seedlings to the conditions inside the room. The shelter begins to open slightly. First, the plastic film is removed very briefly. Then the intervals are increased. When the seedlings grow up, they are planted in separate pots.

Growing temperature

At the stage of tuber germination after a dormant period, it is necessary to maintain a temperature of about +25 degrees. After rooting and with the beginning of the growth of the vegetative mass, the temperature is reduced to +22 degrees during the day and +18 at night. Lowering the temperature is necessary so that in conditions of insufficient light (in February-March there is not enough light) the plants do not grow too rapidly and do not stretch out. The temperature does not need to be reduced, but in this case the plants need additional lighting.

During the growing season, the temperature should not fall below 18 degrees Celsius. Lower temperatures (from +15 - +20) slow down the growth and development of the plant. The optimal temperature for the growth and development of gloxinia ranges from +22 to +26 degrees.

During the active growing season, a short-term increase in temperature to +28 degrees is allowed, but at higher temperatures few buds are formed. If elevated temperatures persist for a long time, then gloxinia begins a period of stagnation, i.e. growth and development stop, and blooming flowers last no more than 3 days. Thus, we can conclude that high temperatures for gloxinia are even more destructive than excess lighting.

Gloxinia line 'Avanti'

All about flowering

When does this happen?

Gloxinia usually blooms once or twice a year . In good conditions, the flowering period begins in mid-spring - early summer.

How long?

If the first flowering was not too late, the plant may produce a second wave of bud development. The total flowering time is six to seven months with a short break. The flower lasts seven to ten days. The second flowering is less abundant than the first.

When will the one grown from the leaf bloom?

You can see the flowering of gloxinia grown from a leaf in about four months . How long does it take for a tuber to form? If the leaf is rooted in the spring, flowers will appear in the fall. Flowering will be modest and short. If the plant overwinters properly, next spring it will appear in all its glory.

We talked about how to grow gloxinia from a leaf here.

Air humidity

Air humidity should be in the range of 70-80%, but gloxinia feels good even at a lower humidity of 50%, however, even lower humidity is undesirable, the plant develops poorly, growth slows down and deformation of the leaves occurs. The edges of the leaf blade are bent downwards.

To increase air humidity, you can place the plant on trays with wet expanded clay, moss, water, but gloxinia itself cannot be sprayed because brown, dry spots form. However, away from light and drafts, gloxinia tolerates water treatments very well. At night, you can take it into the bathroom, spray it or wash it with warm water and leave it there with the doors closed and the lights off until the water on the leaves has completely dried.

History of Gloxinia

Already at the end of the 18th century, the South American plant Gloxinia, named after the famous naturalist Peter Gloxinia, won the hearts of European collectors. Later in England, the Brazilian specimen was thoroughly studied, assigned to the Gesneriev family and officially named Sinningia - in honor of the scientist Wilhelm Sinning. And so it has been since then: in scientific circles it is called Sinningia, among the people - Gloxinia.

Watering gloxinia

For irrigation, you need to use soft water (melt, rain, filtered or partially boiled), chlorinated tap water must first be left for at least a day.

It is better to water from a tray or carefully along the edge of the pot, avoiding water getting on the leaves and in the center of the tuber (where the sprouts come from). in most cases, not from the roots, but from above, from the growing point, the tuber begins to rot. The water for irrigation should be warm, but if gloxinia is at a temperature of +18 degrees, this does not mean at all that you need to water it with water at a temperature of +25 degrees, nothing good will come of it. The water should be 2-3 degrees higher than the ambient air temperature. 20-30 minutes after watering, drain the remaining water from the tray.

Between waterings you need to dry out the soil. It is necessary to reduce the frequency of watering in rainy, cloudy and cold weather. At this time, the soil does not dry out for a long time, and the roots can rot from excess moisture.

Pests and diseases

Unfortunately, gloxinia, like other flowers, suffers from diseases, which are usually the result of improper care. Gloxinia is affected by gray rot, which appears as brown spots on the leaves. It must be combated by treating the plant with a fungicide, after removing all damaged areas. But most often the plant suffers from root rot: the roots turn dark brown, the stem rots at the base and the plant dies. This happens from constant waterlogging of the roots or watering the plant with too cold water. In addition to the diseases mentioned above, protect gloxinia from late blight, blackleg, powdery mildew and fungal diseases. For preventive treatment, use phytosporin; for treatment, use foundationazole.

Viral diseases will also not bypass gloxinia, especially if thrips, cyclamen or spider mites infest it, so try to avoid this.

The cyclamen mite can only be seen under a microscope; with the naked eye you can only detect a large accumulation of mites, looking like a layer of dust on the underside of the leaf blade, but if the leaves of the plant begin to deform and thicken, and curl down at the edges, if the stem twists, the buds wither , the petals of the flowers are deformed, and the tops of the shoots dry out - this means that the flower is occupied by cyclamen mites.

The spider mite is also almost invisible; it also settles on the underside of the leaf and feeds on the cell sap of the plant. You can tell that you are dealing with a spider mite by the white dots that later turn into yellow-brown spots, or by the thin web if the infestation is already at a very strong stage.

The presence of thrips is revealed by light dots, streaks and spots on the leaves and a silvery sheen of undamaged areas of the leaves, which dry out over time, turn brown on the underside, and the edges begin to curl upward. Thrips larvae go into the soil, so to combat the pest you will have to change the top layer of the substrate, or better yet replace it with a new one, but before that, triple treat the plant with insecticides (actara, karbofos, fitoverm, actellik) at intervals of a week. The same measures are also effective in the fight against ticks, but the soil will not have to be changed.

Feeding with fertilizers

After planting the tuber, there is no need to feed gloxinia for the first 1.5 - 2 months. Fertilizers are applied an hour after the main watering, along the edges of the pot, making sure that the solution does not get on the leaves or at the growing point. It is advisable to do this in cloudy weather or in the evening, so that after feeding the plant is not in the sun. Fertilizing with complete mineral fertilizer alternates with organic fertilizers every two weeks, but the first fertilizing should be mineral.

Lack of iron in gloxinia (photo by Tideya)

You can feed once every 10 days, but then make the solution concentration weaker.

Before the appearance of buds, organic matter is alternated with nitrogen: (potassium nitrate, ammonium nitrate). With the appearance of buds, organic matter is alternated with phosphorus: superphosphate, potassium phosphate), if this is not done, dormant vegetative buds will awaken, which will lead to a suspension of the normal development of the plant.

Nitrogen fertilizers cause increased vegetative growth; if they are in excess, flower buds are almost not formed. Excess nitrogen can also cause root rot. For this reason, nitrogen fertilizers are given only at the beginning of growth.
Phosphorus fertilizers - enhance flowering, but their... excess causes premature aging of leaves and leads to chlorosis of the plant.
Potassium fertilizers improve flowering. Excess leads to the formation of shortened peduncles, yellowing of the lower leaves, and deterioration of flower color.
Microelements - affect the size of flowers, their color and the number of buds.

Organic fertilizers for tuberous flowers

Bird droppings

Manure is a very potent fertilizer and when using it, the concentration should be strictly observed. Pour 1 tablespoon of litter into 2 liters of water, close the lid and place in a warm and dark place. Over the next 3-4 days, stir with a stick until fermentation begins (bubbles appear on the surface). After the fermentation process is complete (about a week), the bubbles disappear, solid particles settle to the bottom of the jar, and the solution becomes lighter. It is now ready for use.

250 ml of concentrated solution is poured into 1 liter of water and mixed well; the plants are watered with this solution after preliminary moistening. (one hour after the main watering).

You can simply buy ready-made organic fertilizer.

Mineral fertilizer for tuberous flowers

for 10 liters of water take:

10 g simple superphosphate
10 g potassium chloride
4 g ammonium nitrate
5 g magnesium sulfate
0.1 g ferric chloride
0.07 g boric acid
0.004 g copper sulfate
0.05 g manganese sulfate
0.008 g of zinc sulfate.

If you can’t or are too lazy to look for everything separately, then just buy phosphorus-potassium mineral fertilizer and microelements.

I use Uniflor - flower, Uniflor-bud or Baby (dry, granulated for peppers and tomatoes) as phosphorus-potassium, Uniflor - growth, Uniflor - green leaf as nitrogen and Uniflor-micro as microelements.

After flowering, feed 2 times with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers with an interval of 14 days. This will help the tuber regain strength and survive the dormant period well.

Gloxinia hybrids F1

Why there are no buds: causes and diseases and what to do

Why does the plant not produce buds or flowers appear that then dry up?

Old tuber . More abundant watering is required. You can take care of propagation to get a young plant from this gloxinia.
Infections affecting the tuber . Remove the tuber from the ground. Treat with fungicides. You can dip the tuber in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour. Dry. Prepare a new pot and fresh substrate. Disinfect the soil: bake in the oven for half an hour. Let it cool. You can use the drug Maxim: one ampoule per two liters of water. Plant the tuber in new soil.
Soil infestation by pests . Treat the plant and the substrate itself with systemic insecticides.
Lack of light at high air temperatures .
Gloxinia stretches greatly, becomes thin and weak. Find a bright and warm place in the house for the flower. The lack of light can be compensated using fluorescent lamps. During the heating season, gloxinia should be kept away from hot radiators.
Unbalanced input of fertilizers : use of inappropriate compounds, deficiency of certain nutrients, excess of fertilizers. Signs of excess nitrogen are thick stems and a large number of new dark green leaves. It is necessary to transplant gloxinia into soil containing a lot of peat. Choose only the right fertilizers and set up a feeding schedule. Follow the dosage indicated on the drug packaging.
Unsuitable temperature conditions . In high temperature conditions, the tuber overheats greatly. Gloxinia stops its development, the leaves become lethargic. Move the plant to a more shaded place, providing lighting if necessary. Temperatures below +18°C during the growing season slow down plant growth. The roots become overcooled and rot, the leaves turn black. You need to choose a warmer place for gloxinia.
Air humidity is too low . The leaves turn yellow and curl into tubes (possible diseases of gloxinia leaves are described here). Use a spray bottle to spray the air around the plant, avoiding moisture getting on the leaves and stems. Place the pot of gloxinia on a tray with wet pebbles.
Excessively large pot . Gloxinia spends all its energy on the growth of the tuber. Plant the plant in a shallow and wide pot (this material describes how to choose the right pot).

Caring for gloxinia is a process that requires a lot of attention and effort. At each stage of development, it is necessary to create optimal conditions for the plant. If everything is done correctly, gloxinia will bloom profusely all summer with a short break.

Gloxinia flowering

In a properly grown plant, buds are formed after the third or fourth pair of leaves. Their quantity depends primarily on the mass of the tuber and growing conditions (light, temperature, humidity).

Gloxinia can bloom again (for example, hybrids “Avanti” and “Brocade”) if the first flowering was early. In this case, the above-ground part (stem and leaves) is cut off, leaving a shoot about 2 cm high. Soon, gloxinia develops side shoots of the second generation (second growth) on which buds are laid, the plants bloom, but not as profusely as during primary flowering. Flowers are smaller in size.

Repeated flowering is not typical for all species and varieties of gloxinia; for example, the side shoots of the summer generation of the Kaiser Friedrich variety develop slowly, by the end of summer they manage to acquire leaves, but do not enter the budding and flowering phase.

Types of Gloxinia

The plant differs in diametrical size, color, shape of flowers and leaves, length of peduncles and other characteristics. The most common types of gloxinia grown at home should be given, among which are:

Speckled or perennial gloxinia (Gloxinia perennis) has a distinctive feature in the form of leaves colored red underneath. This type of plant blooms in autumn and has axillary flowers, which are collected in several pieces on a stalk. This gloxinia reaches 70 cm in size.

Royal Gloxinia (Gloxinia regina) has wide dark leaves with silver veins and purple flowers on a high (up to 20 cm) peduncle. This type of flower blooms in summer, and the plant itself is small - no more than 10 cm. When flowering ends, all the leaves die off until the next cycle.

Beautiful Gloxinia (Sinningia speciosa) has light green leaves with light silver veins. Outwardly, it is similar to royal gloxinia, but its flowers are violet or purple in color.

Tiny gloxinia (Sinningia pusilla) is the smallest plant, with a height of only 2.5 cm and small (up to 1 cm) leaves. The flowers of this species are also tiny, purple on top and have a peculiar white spot underneath. The plant has a low peduncle, and a spur is located on the corolla of the flower. Flowering occurs in summer.

Each type of plant presented has its own characteristics, and, therefore, may have characteristic differences in cultivation.

But, according to florists, these flowers do not require painstaking care, which is why they are so valued by beginning gardeners.

Gloxinia

The rest period of gloxinia

In the fall (September - October), when it becomes clear that the soil does not dry out for a long time after watering, watering is reduced, and after the leaves begin to turn yellow or dry out, they stop watering altogether. After the above-ground part of the plant completely dies off, the tuber goes into a dormant state, which lasts 3-4 months depending on the storage temperature.

Tubers are stored in several ways:

The pot with the tuber is placed in a cool place with a temperature of +10 to +15 degrees. During the winter, the soil is slightly moistened several times so that the tubers do not dry out and become very wrinkled, especially if the tubers are small, they are stored worse because they dry out quickly. If the storage temperature is higher, then you need to moisten more often.
2 weeks after the above-ground mass has completely died, the tubers are dug up, cleaned of remaining roots and placed in damp sand and stored in a cool place. This method is convenient because at any time you can easily remove the tubers from the sand and inspect their condition.

This is how I store them: I dig up the tubers, place them in damp sawdust or sand and store them on the bottom or middle shelf of the refrigerator door.
Once a month I take out and inspect the tubers; if the sawdust dries out, I lightly moisten them and place the tubers there again. According to literary data, as well as based on data from Internet resources, storage temperatures below +8 degrees are detrimental for gloxinia. Based on my many years of experience, I cannot agree with this, the refrigerator is only +5, but I have never had any losses. The main condition is not to over-moisten the substrate in which the tubers are stored; it should only be slightly damp, and the sand can be completely dry.

Growing from seeds

When studying the care and propagation of gloxinia, it is worth noting that flower growers use different techniques in the process of flower propagation. One of them involves using seeds for this. They are purchased in the store by choosing the appropriate plant variety. This is a rather complicated method that is not always successful. Therefore, for beginning flower growers it is better to use other techniques.

If you nevertheless decide to breed the presented plant in this way, it is worth considering all the intricacies of this process. By following all the recommendations for caring for and propagating gloxinia at home, you can achieve success.

It is best to purchase granular type seeds. The germination period of the seed material is indicated on the pack. Most often this period is 4-6 months, although some seeds germinate no earlier than 9-10 months. This happens if sowing is done in autumn or winter.

To ensure that the first shoots appear as soon as possible, the seeds are added to the soil in March. To do this, you need to build a mini-greenhouse. You can purchase it at a specialty store. Making a greenhouse yourself is not difficult. For this you will need a plastic container. It must have a lid. Peat tablets are placed in the container, which will first need to be soaked.

A seed is placed on each of these tablets. There is no need to bury it in the substrate. Next, several small holes are made in the lid. This is necessary so that the air inside does not stagnate. The holes will serve as ventilation. Cover the greenhouse with a lid and put it in a well-lit place. It should be quite warm here (temperature about 23ºС). The substrate is carefully moistened for 2 weeks. Next, you need to wait until the first shoots appear on the surface of the soil.

When the sprouts that appear on the surface grow, each of them will need to be transplanted into a separate container (plastic disposable cups) along with a peat tablet. Then a little more time will pass. Stronger plants are transplanted into permanent pots prepared for them.

Reproduction of Gloxinia

Gloxinias are easily propagated by seeds, leaf and stem cuttings, part of the leaf blade, peduncle and tuber division. Seed propagation is mainly for gloxinia species; you can get a lot of young plants at once and it is not advisable for varietal and hybrid ones; Character splitting may occur at the genetic level, which manifests itself in the external appearance of the plant. There is no guarantee that you will receive a plant with the original parental characteristics.

Sowing Gloxinia seeds

Sowing is carried out at the end of January - February (with mandatory additional lighting with fluorescent lamps) or in March. Seeds germinate in the light, they are sown superficially on a moist substrate (the composition is the same as for planting tubers), lightly pressed against it and covered with glass or film. The bowl with the crops is placed in a bright place. At a temperature of 24-26 degrees, germination begins 12-14 days from the moment of sowing; at lower temperatures it takes up to one month or even longer. Caring for crops comes down to maintaining temperature and humidity, preventing the soil from drying out. If there is a need to moisten the soil, this should be done from a pallet. There is no need to water from above because the seeds are small and can be easily washed off with water.

About a month after the appearance of the cotyledons, you can make the first pick, especially if the crops are thickened. They dive according to the 2*2 cm pattern into light soil. Another month, after the first pair of true leaves appear, the young plants are picked again or immediately planted in separate pots with a diameter of 6 cm (cactus). The temperature is maintained at least +20 degrees. Gloxinia tolerates picking well, and after it begins to grow intensively.

I do this: if the seeds are granular, I place them at a distance of 4*4 cm from each other in order to avoid picking in the cotyledon phase in the future. I put the bowl with the crops in a transparent cake box, and they remain there until 1-2 pairs of true leaves appear. After that, I plant them in separate pots and again put them in this mini greenhouse for 2 weeks for rooting and survival. In the future, I will accustom them to the open air of the room and, if necessary, transfer them to larger pots. My seedlings bloom 4-5 months after germination. Gloxinias grown from seeds may not have a dormant period in the first year, and will vegetate (continue to grow) all winter.

How to get gloxinia seeds

On the second day of flowering, after the flower blooms, take a soft brush and transfer the pollen to the stigma. The next day, to better guarantee pollination, repeat this procedure. If pollination has occurred, the perianth falls off after a few days, the ovary begins to grow, and along with it the receptacle noticeably thickens. The former flower, now an unripe dark green fruit, does not dry out for a long time. Seed ripening lasts 1.5 - 2 months and it is uneven, i.e. the seeds do not ripen at the same time in the box. After the fruit (box) opens, bring a piece of paper and, tapping the peduncle, shake out the seeds. After a couple of days, collect the seeds again. The seeds are very small, dust-like. Germination remains for 2-3 years. Germination is good. Normally, a plant should have no more than 3 seed capsules. If the plant is young or the tuber is of insufficient weight and size, limit yourself to one fruit and remove the excess ones.

Vegetative propagation of gloxinia

Vegetative propagation is the most common method; it is the simplest and most accessible. If rooting occurs in spring or in the first half of summer, then flowering can be seen from the resulting young plants in the same season.

Propagation of gloxinia by leaf cuttings

In the budding phase or during flowering, cut off the leaf of the lower tier of the rosette (young, upper leaves should not be taken). It is desirable that the petiole be short and thick; the size of the resulting tuber will depend on the diameter of the petiole. Next, you can proceed in a way convenient for you:

Immerse the cutting in water to a depth of 1 - 1.5 cm and hold it until roots form (there is no need to change the water, just add if necessary), then plant it in the ground to a depth of 2-2.5 cm. For better survival of the cutting in the soil, it can be cover with a jar or bag.
The cuttings are dipped in charcoal powder and planted in moist soil. Cover the top with a glass jar. At a temperature not lower than +22 degrees, rooting occurs within 2-3 weeks, then the jar can be removed. A little trick: if you only have one leaf, but you need to get two tubers, split the base of the petiole lengthwise to a length of 1 - 1.5 cm; after rooting, 2 smaller nodules will form.

Propagation of gloxinia by stem cuttings

If a gloxinia tuber has many side shoots, leave 1-2 and break out the rest. Stem cuttings are essentially finished plants, but without roots. They are rooted in the same way as leafy ones and they bloom in the same season.

Reproduction of gloxinia by leaf blade

Cut off the large leaf at the base of the rosette. On the back of the leaf blade, make cuts across the protruding veins in the thickest places. Place the sheet on moist soil, press it to the soil in the places where the cuts are made and cover it with a bag or place it in a greenhouse. Roots will soon appear in the places where the cuts are made, and then nodules will form. It is important to maintain high humidity.
The leaf plate is cut crosswise into 2-3 parts depending on the size of the leaf and each part is planted in soil or sand, covered with a jar or bag to maintain moisture. Root at a temperature not lower than +22 degrees. Optimal is about +25.

Reproduction of gloxinia by peduncle

It should be mentioned that not all gloxinia varieties can be propagated in this way. Some varieties take root well with peduncles, while others do not take root at all.

After the corolla has withered, the peduncle is broken out and placed 1 - 1.5 cm in water and care is taken that it does not touch the walls of the vessel. Do not change the water, add as it evaporates. After about a month, roots and a nodule form on it. After this, the peduncle is planted in moist soil to a depth of 1.5 - 2 cm. Care as for leaf cuttings.

Reproduction of gloxinia by tuber division

Large tubers that have more than two sprouts can be divided. The tuber is cut into pieces so that each of them contains at least one sprout. Sections of parts of the tuber are sprinkled with crushed charcoal, dried for 3-4 days in a dark place at room temperature and then planted in moist soil. Further care is similar to caring for a whole tuber after planting.

Caring for gloxinia at home

Like any other plant, gloxinia “puts forward” a number of requirements for living conditions. In order for the bush to please you with bright inflorescences and lush greenery, you need to pay attention to many details, for example, lighting, watering, feeding with special fertilizers, etc.

Lighting

Gloxinia is a light-loving flower, and the duration of illumination should be approximately 15 hours a day. But the southern beauty does not like direct sunlight. Bright rays burn the leaves, which form noticeable gray spots.

On a window facing south, the plant can be left until May. But in the summer months it is better to move gloxinia to the eastern or western windowsill. If the latter option is not possible, then you need to slightly shade the window using light tulle or move the pot to a rack where direct rays of the sun do not fall.

Humidity and temperature

The South American subshrub loves high air humidity, but at the same time is afraid of moisture getting on the leaves and buds. A way out of the situation may be to irrigate the air using a spray bottle next to the pot or place the plant on a tray with moistened expanded clay.

The optimal temperature for the plant is approximately 20-22 °C. In late autumn and winter months, the indoor air should be cooler (about 10 degrees). But it is important to exclude drafts and temperature changes, otherwise the flower will get sick or die.

Watering

The growing season is the time when the flower needs frequent and abundant watering. Flower growers advise following several rules for conducting “water procedures”.

Water should be collected in advance and left for several hours/days to get rid of chlorine and other compounds and impurities.
Cold watering is taboo. The plant prefers water whose temperature is 24-26 °C.
If the surface of the earth is dry, it is not necessary to water the flower itself, but only the soil. Another option is to pour water into the pan, and after a couple of hours, pour out the remaining liquid.

Frequent watering continues until the end of August. Then “water procedures” become more rare, since by November the plant will gradually enter a dormant period.

Top dressing

Caring for gloxinia at home involves the use of special fertilizers. But if, of course, you want to see your green pet blooming and healthy. By the way, a plant that feels good blooms from April until the end of summer.

But this is ideal if the owner additionally supports the growing season with a vitamin-mineral mixture. Gloxinia needs to be fed twice a month, and the procedure is carried out in the evening or in inclement weather, so that the sun's rays do not burn the growth area and leaves.

Before budding, the flower is provided with nitrogenous compounds that stimulate foliage growth. As soon as buds begin to form, nitrogen is abandoned and preference is given to fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium. These elements actively support flowering.

They stop feeding the plant by the end of August, when you can already forget about the buds. Reducing the amount of minerals in the soil will allow gloxinia to prepare for hibernation and spend the winter months in a calm state.

Transfer

As soon as the dormant period ends (usually February-March), the flower must be transplanted into new soil. At the same time, it is important to comply with the important conditions and requirements that apply to the soil and the planting pot. Let's consider the basic rules and advice from flower growers.

Choosing soil and pot

Preference should be given to the finished substrate. The most suitable soil is that suitable for violets or begonias. But before planting, it needs to be brought closer to the needs of gloxinia by adding a little baking powder. Its role is played by marsh moss, vermiculite or perlite.

An alternative step is to make your own potting soil. This will require several ingredients.

Earth (3 parts). This essential element of the substrate can be taken from the vegetable garden, garden plot or from under any tree.
Sand mixture (2 parts). This component will promote better water absorption and prevent soil petrification.
Peat components (3 parts). This sedimentary rock loosens the substrate and promotes a better supply of vitamins and minerals to the roots.
Humus (2 handfuls per 2 liters of substrate). This element will become the initial fertilizer for the transplanted tuber. If you refuse rotted manure, then you need to feed the flower literally immediately after replanting.
Drainage. Required component. Its volume will depend on the size of the pot.

The planting container itself should be selected taking into account the characteristics of the plant, which grows in a wide bush. Consequently, the pot should not be too deep, but wide enough. The optimal distance from the edges of the nodule to the walls of the container is 5 cm.

If the old pot is the right size, you can keep it. It is only important to rinse it under running water and wash it with a saturated soda solution with a small amount of potassium permanganate. That's it, it's time to move on to the transplant.

Planting process

By the end of winter, the tuber acquires shoots. This is a signal that it is time to replant the plant. The process itself is quite simple and ordinary, but it also has important nuances.

Wait for the buds to appear. If shoots do not appear, the tuber is placed in a warm, lit room. Then the rhizome is taken out of the ground, shaken off, dead shoots are removed and washed under the tap.
Cut out rotten and dried areas using a sharp knife. Treat the cut areas with charcoal powder. If the tuber is completely covered with rot, then it is better to get rid of it.
Prepare a weak solution of potassium permanganate. It should be warm. Place the prepared rhizomes in it for 30 minutes to disinfect.
Pour drainage into the planting container. The height of the layer is no more than 2 centimeters. Fill in the soil substrate (approximately 2/3 of the pot's volume). Bury the tuber so that the emerging shoots stick out, and water the soil around the rhizome.
Cover the flower with film. Remove it every day for 60 minutes so that the tuber can breathe.
Add primer and remove the film completely. This should be done when the sprouts are in full force and 2 leaves appear. The soil is added so that the nodule is completely covered.

This algorithm is relevant for an overwintered plant. If you purchased gloxinia with flowers, then you should not replant it. Wait until September, prepare the bush for wintering, and in the spring begin the above steps.

Reproduction

One of the features of gloxinia is that there are several options for obtaining new plants. The flower reproduces with the help of leaves, seeds, cuttings, stepsons and nodules. All these methods differ in labor intensity and final result, but you can choose the most comfortable and effective option.

Seeds

Getting a flowering bush from seeds is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. But if you are ready for a six-month (or even more) wait, then go to a specialized store for planting material. By the way, experts advise purchasing granulated seeds.

Sowing is done in late winter - early spring. For better germination, you should purchase a mini-greenhouse or take a container with a glass or plastic transparent lid. You should also stock up on soil for violets or prepare a soil mixture according to the algorithm described above.

The seeds are sown superficially, that is, they are not buried in the soil, but scattered on top of the soil. After this, the container is moistened with a spray bottle, covered with a lid (with ventilation holes) and placed in a well-lit and warm room.

For 2 weeks, the mini-greenhouse is regularly ventilated and occasionally moistened. After another week, when small sprouts appear, the lid needs to be removed.

As soon as the seedlings grow a little and become stronger (after 4-6 weeks), they are transplanted into separate disposable glasses or special cassettes. Grown plants should be planted in permanent pots of a suitable size (not very large and not very small).

Leaf cuttings

This method of reproduction is considered simpler and more reliable than the previous option. It is only important to choose a small and strong leaf during the growing season. If the leaf plate is large, then it is divided into several parts.

In any case, the leaf is cut across the lines of the veins. It is important to use a sharp knife, otherwise the uneven edges will begin to rot over time. Consequently, such planting material will already be considered spoiled.

Parts of the leaf are planted in separate containers filled with moistened soil mixture. They need to be covered with polyethylene and left for a month in a warm place, but these shoots do not need ventilation or watering. As soon as the leaves take root, the film is removed and the plants are accustomed to indoor conditions.

Stem cutting

This propagation option involves using the top of the flower stem. It is cut off with a sharp knife and immersed in a moistened soil substrate. After this, the process should be covered with polyethylene and wait approximately 2 weeks.

Some gardeners first place the cut stem with leaves in water and wait for the roots to appear. Only after this is the seedling sprinkled with soil, making sure that only the stem with roots is in the ground, and that the leaves do not touch the surface of the soil.

By dividing the tuber

This option injures the plant, so it is used very rarely - unless other methods of propagation are suitable. Divide only those tubers that have at least two shoots at least two centimeters long.

The nodule is divided in such a way that at least one sprout remains on each cut part. The separated tubers should be left outdoors for 24 hours to allow the wounds to dry out a little. If you need to plant on the same day, then the cut should be treated with coal powder (you can crush the black tablets from the package).

The tuber parts are planted in small pots. There is no need to press the planting material too deeply, nor do you need to over-water. Excessive moisture can destroy the tubers. If everything went well, shoots will appear after 14 days. Now all that remains is to transplant the flower into a permanent pot.

Perhaps such efforts may seem excessive to some. However, if propagation, transplantation, care and cultivation of the plant occurs according to the rules, then gloxinia will live on windowsills for 10 years, annually presenting caring owners with bright and very beautiful inflorescences.

Possible failures when growing gloxinia

A tuber has not formed - this can happen when planting a very long stem cutting or if the cutting was planted very deeply and was watered abundantly.

The buds turn black and die - the reason is a lack of micronutrients and shortened daylight hours.

Redness of the leaves is a lack of phosphorus.

Yellowing of leaves - lack of nitrogen or overwatering.

Leaf discoloration is a magnesium deficiency.

Curling leaves - insufficient air humidity.

Spotting (non-infectious). There are yellow or brown spots of indefinite shape on the leaves - too bright lighting, drafts or watering with cold water.

Curling of flowers, slowing down of plant growth - temperature below +15 degrees.

Curling of the edges of the leaves and their arching, the formation of deformed flowers and shortened pedicels is an excess of moisture in the soil.

Rotting of petioles and buds - excessive soil acidity, excess nitrogen fertilizers, waterlogging of the soil.

The plant does not bloom - insufficient lighting, lack of nutrition, dry or cold air, improper maintenance during the dormant period, excess nitrogen fertilizers.

Why doesn't it bloom and how to deal with it?

Flower growers often notice that their favorite plant is in no hurry to please them with vigorous flowering. The reason for this phenomenon is most often illiterate care of the plant. Incorrect content can be judged if:

the plant is overfed with nitrogen-based fertilizers. Nitrogen acts as a stimulator for the rapid growth of greenery and at the same time an obstacle to flowering. The best fertilizer for gloxinia is phosphorus-potassium fertilizer;
lacks lighting.
Sinningia is a light-loving plant, and it simply needs lighting for the formation of new buds and the beautiful shape of flowers. If there is a lack of natural light for gloxinia, additional artificial lighting can be arranged.
The size of the pot in which it grows is not suitable for the plant. The ideal pot for Sinningia is low, wide and small, with a diameter of about 9-15 cm. In a large and deep one, it will spend energy on growing the tuber, to the detriment of flowering (the rest period of Gloxinia and preserving the tuber until spring is described here).
there is no transfer. Repotting should be done annually;
The soil in which Sinningia grows is poor.
Gloxinia needs fertile soil containing humus, coniferous and leaf soil, sand, perlite (or hydrogel) and peat. You can make a planting mixture for the plant yourself, or buy a ready-made one. Before planting the plant, the soil must be calcined for about half an hour in the oven to destroy pathogens.

Flowering is a wonderful sight that can give a sea of aesthetic pleasure. In order for it to be lush, abundant and long-lasting, it is necessary to provide this unpretentious beauty with competent care.

Gloxinia diseases

Tuber rotting. Occurs when overwatering. At the initial stage, the disease is manifested by a decrease in leaf turgor; after watering, turgor is not restored. If the tuber is severely damaged, gloxinia droops completely. Leaf cuttings need to be cut and re-rooted. If the tuber has rotted away from the growing point, then the rotten parts are cut off to healthy tissue, disinfected in a strong solution of potassium permanganate or another fungicide, powdered with crushed coal and dried for 2-3 days, after which they are planted again in moist soil.
Late blight. It is the most common disease of the Gesneriaceae family. It develops quickly and leads to the sudden death of gloxinia. It begins with slight wilting, then the growth of the stem stops and its color changes. After watering, the leaves wither even more, the base of the stem begins to rot, spreading to the petioles and leaves. An attempt to preserve the plant is unsuccessful; cut leaf cuttings do not take root and quickly turn black and rot. The plant must be destroyed along with the soil.
Fusarium. The plant becomes infected through the soil. Leaves turn brown, curl and wilt. Dark stripes and cracks form on the stem. The defeat of a plant by fusarium is promoted by excessive watering and constant soil moisture.

More details fusarium

Use complex fertilizers

Gloxinia requires feeding during the period of growth and flowering. Correctly selected fertilizer is a condition for luxurious flowering. For feeding, complex liquid and solid fertilizers are used.

What elements are included in the fertilizer:

nitrogen – necessary for the growth of stems and tops. This element is especially important during the formation of the green part. Excess nitrogen during flowering will cause excessive foliage growth to the detriment of flowers;
phosphorus and potassium are needed from the moment the buds are laid. If they are deficient, flowering will be sparse, and the flowers will be small and ugly;
calcium, sodium, copper and other elements are needed in small quantities, however, if they are absent, the plant may get sick. The deficiency will also negatively affect the appearance of the flower.

Feeding begins from the moment of growth and ends before preparing for dormancy. During the growth period, it is recommended to apply fertilizer once every 2 weeks in the proportions specified in the instructions. Diluted fertilizer is applied in the morning, an hour after watering. It is permissible to feed the plant with each watering, but the concentration of fertilizer should be 6 times lower than specified in the instructions.

Description and varieties

Gloxinia is native to South America. More often it is a low flower, similar to a violet. But there are also varieties that can grow up to 25 cm and higher.

The petiolate leaves of gloxinia reach a length of 20 cm. They have an elongated, oval or ovoid shape. The veins are clearly visible on the plate.

Up to 40 flowers appear on the bush at the same time. And some gloxinia are able to set buds twice a year.

Most Gloxinia indoor flowers cultivated at home are hybrids of the Beautiful and Royal Sinningia. True gloxinias are extremely rare.

Popular gloxinia series include several varieties with different petal colors.

Depending on the crown diameter, gloxinia species are divided into types:

standard (crown more than 25 cm);
compact (12 to 25 cm);
miniature (5 to 12 cm)
microminiature (up to 5 cm).

Photos and names of gloxinia varieties are shown in the gallery, click to enlarge.

Mont Blanc and Winter Cherry May Queen and Rosalind Kaiser Friedrich Empress Yesenia Hollywood and Black Hollywood Brocade and Impress Chagane and Cleopatra Avanti Kaiser Wilhelm Blanche de Meru Tigrin and Minx

Both simple varieties with one row of petals and double gloxinias are popular in home floriculture.

Although gloxinia is often compared to violets, this flower is different from them:

the presence of a period of rest;
larger leaves;
shape and size of flowers (they are larger and similar to bells);
smell;
the presence of a tuber instead of a tap root system.

Temperature for gloxinia

Optimal air temperature is +18…+23 °C. The plant can withstand +30 °C, but this will become a strong stress for it, loss of turgor or blackening of leaves, rotting of roots is possible. If this does happen, you need to root the leaf just in case, check the condition of the tuber: remove it from the pot, free it from dead roots, plant it again and monitor watering.

Diameter of the pot It should not be much larger than the tuber (3-4 times). In large pots, moisture stagnates, roots develop poorly and the tuber may rot. Conversely, in a pot that is too small, the earthen ball dries out quickly and the growth of the plant slows down. It's better to use plastic ones.

You cannot plant several tubers in one pot.

Gloxinia lighting

Sinningias are suitable for any side of the window, except the south, and a place protected from drafts. Whether a plant is properly lit can be determined by its external signs.

❀ If there is enough light: the plant is compact, the leaf petioles are short, the leaves do not stretch upward, the rosette is symmetrical, the flowers are fully open.

❀ If there is not enough light: the trunk lengthens, the rosette folds the leaves, the color of the leaves is pale and unsaturated, the leaf blades are thin, the peduncles are long and drooping, the flowers are poorly

❀ If there is too much light: light spots appear on the foliage, the leaves are hard and the rosette is “thickened”, the leaves do not straighten out, the flower stalks cannot get out from under the leaves. It is necessary to shade the plants with parchment paper attached to the glass or hang blinds.

❀ To grow gloxinia on a shelf, 12–14 hours of lighting is required. If the lamps are new, they emit brighter light - this must be taken into account. Good results are achieved by growing under Osram Lumilux Daylight 865 and Osram Fluora or Osram Natura lamps. The distance from the socket to the lamp should be 18–30 cm.

Gloxinia, or Sinningia