For inexperienced flower growers who decide to grow exotic plants at home, sometimes they simply give up due to excessive care associated with ignorance of the biological and physiological characteristics of orchids if The orchid begins to rot before our eyes.
it is difficult and problematic to grow such a plant at home
It turns out that everything is not so difficult if you try to understand the causes of decay and know what to do to revive the tropical beauty.
Orchids, although capricious to care for, are quite life-loving and can almost always be resuscitated.
Why does orchid rot?
Putrefactive processes in any part of the plant are mainly associated with increased and prolonged humidity at low ambient temperatures . This is especially true for inexperienced flower growers.
Having no experience, not knowing the physiological characteristics of tropical orchids, they care for their pets too hard, not realizing that they are only harming the plant.
Causes
The main reasons why an orchid rots when grown at home are:
- excessive watering;
- poor quality soil;
- Greenhouse effect;
- sunburn;
- hypothermia;
- organic fertilizers;
- excess fertilizer;
- weakened plant;
- pests
Often the cause of rotting is excessive watering.
Which plant organs are under attack?
The most vulnerable part to putrefactive processes is the root system . Overwatering causes the soil to become compacted and decompose, and in the absence of good ventilation, rapidly spreading pockets of rot are formed.
Second place belongs to the leaves of the plant . Damage by direct rays of the sun or pests opens the flow of air into the intercellular tissues, where the process of decay begins.
The third place belongs to the pith or stem . Inaccurate watering, irrigation or pests quickly lead this part to the center of the spread of the fungus.
What parts of the plant may be affected?
Often the rotting process extends to the core, leaves or root system.
Leaves
Leaf rotting develops as a result of improper watering. Most often, orchid leaves are affected by the fungus Pythium . Typically, rotting begins at the base of the plant, after which the roots are affected. This process is rapid, the plant can die in literally 2-3 days. With Phytophthora fungus, the leaves become covered with brown dark spots. Wet rot inhibits plant development. High humidity and high air temperatures lead to this state of the flower.
At the base
If, during watering, water gets into the core of the flower (resembling a funnel), then with high humidity, high temperatures, poor lighting and other circumstances, the process of rotting of the trunk begins.
Rotting processes are most often caused by diseases such as fusarium rot, gray rot, leaf spot, powdery mildew, and viral diseases.
Root
The root rots due to improper watering . This is the main reason among all those considered. In second place is a rare orchid transplant. Old soil does not allow air to pass through to the root system, and moisture stagnation occurs there. And as a result, the root of the plant rotted.
We invite you to watch a video about what the affected plant looks like and what are the reasons for its infection:
Types of rot
Gray
A fungal disease caused by the fungus Botrytis cinerea. Ideal conditions for formation are a cold, damp atmosphere with poor air ventilation . Initial appearance on flowers in the form of small brown spots .
As the spots progress, they enlarge and are framed by a pale pink halo . The final phase of spread is the merging of the spots into one and the appearance of gray membranous sprouts (mycelium) of the fungus.
Gray rot on orchids (photo of the back of the affected leaf).
Gray rot on the petals.
Under ideal conditions, an infected plant is capable of releasing spores into the environment. At temperatures from 18 to 23 ° C and humidity of at least 90%, the spread of infection to healthy tissue occurs quite quickly - within 12-15 hours. The most susceptible to the fungus are Phalaenopsis and Cattleya.
Attention! In 90% of cases, a weakened plant is affected.
Brown or bacterial rot
The causative agents are bacteria of the Erwinia, Pseudomonas and others families. Young leaves and shoots are most often affected . Lesions appear as wet brown spots that cover the entire area of the plant before our eyes. If a stem or growing point is affected by brown rot, it dies.
The action of bacteria progresses if the humidity is above 60% and the ambient temperature is 15° and below.
Susceptible to this type of rot:
- Phalaenopsis;
- Cattleya;
- Cymbidium;
- Paphiopedilum.
Bacterial rot.
Another photo of the bakt. rotten.
If the damage is severe, the plants are destroyed. Local, small lesions are cut down to living tissue, and the section is disinfected with crushed activated carbon. Conditions and care are improving.
For preventive purposes, under favorable conditions for the spread of bacteria, spraying is carried out with preparations based on copper.
Black
The causative agents of this fungal disease are soil-dwelling Pitium fungi, which lead a parasitic lifestyle.
And although the main damage occurs to young roots, since they are not yet protected by a reliable coating, when it spreads, it affects all parts of the exotic plant, regardless of age.
The greatest danger is the formation of foci of rot on the root system and at the bases of tuberidia. The danger lies in the rapid spread of lesions to healthy areas. The roots quickly turn black due to tissue necrosis, and the tuberidia become mummified.
The conditions for the spread of black rot are low temperature and high humidity of the environment and soil . Under such conditions, the underground part develops slowly. Some roots do not have enough air in the moisture-saturated soil, and they gradually die off, which makes it easy for pathogenic fungi to penetrate them.
The most accessible black rot are the following types of orchids:
- Cattleyas;
- stangopei;
- laelia;
- leliocattleya;
- paphiopedilum, etc.
Even at normal temperature and humidity, mushrooms do not die . The spread processes slow down and proceed much more slowly. Extensive activation of putrefactive processes leads to the death of the tropical beauty.
Black rot.
You can save the plant in the initial stages of damage . Since development occurs in patches, optimizing moisture and treating with copper-containing preparations will not only significantly slow down the process, but in the early stages can cure ocher.
Dry rot
On orchids, according to some sources, dry rot is nothing more than fusarium. But there is another concept of dry rot - this is southern sclerotial rot.
Southern sclerotial
An infectious disease caused by the fungus Sclerotium rolfsii. It appears on almost all parts , but especially on the roots and stem, and at the same time.
Soil-dwelling fungi that can remain viable for many years. The infection occurs not only with low-quality soil components, but also with irrigation water.
Ideal conditions for propagation are considered to be a temperature of 27-33° C and high humidity.
Southern sclerotial rot.
More photos.
Important! At low humidity, the disease multiplies just as quickly, differing only in a different development process.
If wet rot is in many ways similar to various types of root rot, then dry rot mainly affects orchids growing on blocks.
Fusarium
A fungal disease caused by the fungus Fusarium moniliforme var. Lactis. Spotting on yellowed leaves and their curling is the main symptom of fusarium. The tissues of the leaf blade lose their structure, soften and become covered with a whitish-pink coating formed by fungal spores.
The orchid quickly takes on a dull gray appearance. The central shoot rots and subsequently dies.
Fusarium.
Fighting the disease is quite difficult and takes a long time. For 7-10 days, it is subject to treatment with the drug foundationazol several times a day .
Causes of root rot on an orchid
First of all, root rotting begins in a waterlogged substrate - excess watering will immediately affect the condition of the root system. However, there are other possible reasons that are not directly related to the irrigation regime:
- as a result of prolonged use, the substrate lost its breathability and friability and became dense;
- fertilizing with a fertilizer solution prepared with an inflated dose;
- damage to the root system during transplantation in the absence of wound disinfection;
- colonization of the substrate by pests that feed on roots;
- fungal infections - late blight, southern sclerotial rot, rhizoctonia or brown rot.
Course of the disease
Different species of orchids are affected by pathogenic fungi and parasites in different ways and under different conditions. Also, the clinical picture looks different.
Pathogenic fungi enter plant tissue due to the presence of certain enzymes. Having penetrated inside, toxins are released, which provoke the formation of rot that decomposes the fabric.
Any, even minor, damage to the roots, leaves or stem allows air to enter the wound and, accordingly, the development of pathogens. Oversaturation with moisture leads to tissue destruction, which is the main culprit in the development of fungal diseases.
Terms of distribution
Fungal diseases, caused by various types of fungi, develop and spread under certain conditions . But, basically, the conditions are related to temperature, humidity and lighting.
Some types of fungi, such as Phytophtora cactorum, require high humidity and temperature, while others require dry air and low temperature.
Therefore, it is advisable for flower growers to know the physiological and biological characteristics and characteristics of the type of orchids grown at home.
It is proper care, the creation of the necessary conditions, the absence of “excessive” care and the implementation of the recommendations of experienced orchids that will ensure the health of exotic beauties.
External signs of damage
Rot is the process of decomposition or destruction of intercellular substances, tissue cell walls and the entire contents of a plant cell. Such pathological processes are caused by semi-parasitic and saprophytic fungi or bacteria. The process of tissue breakdown into cells occurs, which weaken and cease to function, as a result of which the work of tissues and organs stops.
External signs of putrefactive processes, both aboveground and underground, may differ depending on the type of fungus, but, one way or another, they form initial, local foci of damage:
- the appearance on young leaves and shoots of watery light brown spots, quickly darkening and increasing in size until merging into one continuous spot;
- brown and black spots covered with a terry gray coating;
- dark brown shades on roots and leaves;
- yellowness, darkening, the appearance of oozing ulcers on the leaf blades;
- brown spots on flowers;
- blackening of the root system.
Blackening of the roots may be a sign of rotting.
Attention! Bacterial infections occur much less frequently than fungal infections. If pathogenic fungi attack under certain conditions and in weakened places, then bacteria attack when the plant is completely weakened.
What measures to take to treat root rot
First of all, the diseased plant should be isolated from other flowers until the cause of the disease is determined. The place where it was located should be washed well with disinfectants.
The orchid roots are removed from the substrate, carefully examined and the degree of damage to the root system is determined. If the roots are partially damaged, remove all rotten areas down to healthy tissue, treat with a fungicide and dry. In the event that the roots have rotted completely, use the method of resuscitating an orchid without roots using any of the methods practiced by experienced orchid growers.
It is important to understand which fungicide is more appropriate to use to treat plants affected by a particular fungus. So, when choosing a means to combat late blight, you should pay attention to the fact that it contains substances such as, for example, metalaxyl-M, propamocarb and individual copper compounds, the same Bordeaux mixture.
Effective substances against rhizoctoniasis include boscalid, pencycuron, and tolclofosmethyl, and sclerotial rot is well treated with products containing azoxystrobin, cyprodinil or fludioxonil.
Consequences
A rotten orchid very quickly loses its immunity and weakens . A weak plant is unable to resist the disease, and leaves with areas of rotting cease to participate in photosynthesis. When the roots become putrefactive, the above-ground part stops receiving nutrition and gradually dries out. Small local outbreaks do not pose a threat if they are eliminated in a timely manner.
General state:
- oppression and weakness of the orchi;
- loss of turgor in the leaf apparatus;
- reduction or loss of plant decorativeness;
- reduction in flowering duration;
- inhibition of photosynthesis processes;
- slowness or complete stop in growth and development.
The main signs, one way or another, are associated with the appearance of any spots on the leaves, stems or flowers. The florist should be concerned about their appearance and find out the reason . Otherwise, pathogenic fungi or bacteria will cover not only the plant itself, but also those adjacent to it.
With root rot, the above-ground part can remain seemingly quite healthy for a long time. But the process of rotting of the root part will make itself felt over time. The consequences can be quite dire. If timely measures are not taken, the plant will die quite quickly.
Features of orchid rotting
Phytopathogenic fungi and bacteria pose a great threat to indoor flowers. They most often appear in the place where the orchid is most vulnerable. The proliferation of harmful microorganisms creates all the conditions for the appearance of signs of rot. At the same time, the peduncle, foliage and roots suffer.
Any part of the plant quickly rots, and the infection, spreading, approaches the growing point of the flower, it can minimize the chances of restoration of the crop. The foliage turns yellow or darkens at the base, loses turgor, and photosynthesis is inhibited. All this affects the decorative features of the orchid and gradually kills it.
The development of damage to the leaf blade often leads to the spread of infection to the core of the flower. With such localization of pathological processes, the foliage darkens and falls, and the stem becomes sluggish and unstable. Even if all the upper parts of the flower have rotted away, there is still a chance to save it. The main thing is that the infection does not reach the root system.
What to do and how to save an orchid if it is rotting:
Here we will take a closer look at what to do if the orchid is rotten. It should be borne in mind that rescue measures will vary depending on the affected plant organ.
Trunk?
If an orchid's trunk rots, this is one of the most dangerous processes for its life . If the outbreak is too large and has captured most of it, then it is almost impossible to save such an orhu.
If a large area of the trunk rots, the orchid cannot be saved.
There can be many reasons for trunk damage , ranging from frostbite to mechanical damage. Black spots may appear on the trunk or it may begin to turn yellow. It all depends on the cause and type of disease.
In any case, timely detection of a defect on the stem increases the chances of saving the tropical beauty by an order of magnitude.
Standard resuscitation methods:
- removal of foci of rotting to healthy tissue;
- processing of sections;
- transplantation and special care.
Monopodial orchids have one short trunk, on which all the important parts of the plant are located: roots, leaves and growing point. For this reason, it should be given increased attention. Therefore, if an orchid rots at the base, this is a very alarming sign.
Core?
Rotting of the core (growing point) is a rather rare but common phenomenon. This usually occurs as a result of some kind of infection, rather than from the process of rotting caused by stagnation of water. For the core to rot, water must remain there for at least a day.
In an apartment (it’s hot in summer and heating in winter), this is almost impossible; it will simply evaporate. But, if a tropical monopodial beauty stands under the sun's rays, then the sun can burn the tissue or quickly evaporate moisture, which will lead to a sharp cooling of young leaves.
Such a sharp drop is similar to frostbite, as a result of which the young leaf plate becomes damaged and, accordingly, open access to pathogenic microorganisms.
A completely different picture is observed in the autumn-winter period, when the heating is not yet working and the room is cool. Water cannot evaporate for a long time; it stagnates. Tissue destruction depends on the condition and tenderness of the leaf blades of young leaves. The more tender they are, the faster the destruction of their tissues will begin.
First of all, it is necessary to strictly follow the rules of plant care and hygiene.
Preventive actions are based on the following requirements:
- lighting, temperature and humidity are three parameters that determine location;
- watering is carried out only when the substrate is completely dry;
- regular ventilation ;
- removing water accumulated after watering from the core using a paper napkin for 30-40 minutes.
To avoid rot, always remove water from the leaf axils.
To avoid the spread of rot deep into the trunk and onto adjacent leaves, the source of damage is cut out to an area of healthy tissue . And the cut areas are disinfected and dried. During the first few days, you need to monitor the cutting sites. The appearance of new signs indicates that the cut size is insufficient.
Important! If the core is completely rotten, then you should not be afraid of cutting it out completely. Without it, the orchid can be revived. If the putrefactive process spreads throughout the ocher, there will be nothing to reanimate.
The top?
Why does the top of the orchi suffer and rot? There are two main reasons: infection or errors in care.
If any rot affects the top, it must be cut off . The cut site is cleaned, treated with a fungicide or disinfected.
Further care for the remaining stump is standard, as for a regular orchid, with the exception of spraying and additional nutrition. With proper care, a baby will emerge from this stump in 50-60 days. The active growth of the baby allows feeding with a balanced diet.
Growth point?
No matter how resilient an orchid is famous, if the growing point rots, the chances of saving it are estimated by experienced orchidists to be 50 to 50.
It is important to prevent infection from spreading throughout the entire stem and root part.
Even in the absence of a growth point, a monopodial orchid will be able to live, since it will be able to reproduce with the help of children.
Bulba?
Rot in any part of the plant should alert the gardener. Bulba is no exception. Rotting of the base of the bulb is especially dangerous, since the infection spreads quite quickly and can cause damage to the root system. Then only a miracle can save the exotic.
The rescue process is standard - “surgical” intervention. The putrefactive focus (or the entire bulb) is removed down to living tissue , disinfected, dried, and watering and fertilizing are stopped for a while.
How to properly revive a plant?
How to properly revive a plant with rotten, frozen or dried roots? You can almost always solve a problem, even if the case seems hopeless. It will be possible to correct the situation if the plant was flooded, found frozen (the plant must be allowed to thaw at a temperature below room temperature, and then begin resuscitation) or dried out. The algorithm is always the same. However, the sooner a problem with the root system is noticed, the greater the chances of successfully resuscitating the flower. First you need to inspect the orchid to assess the extent of the damage.
To do this you need to pay attention to the roots:
- Healthy roots are quite fleshy, dense and elastic.
- Their color depends on the age of the flower: young ones are light green, old ones are gray or brownish. If the plant has not been watered for a long time, the root system will be almost white, and after watering it will be rich green.
- If the roots are feeding the plant, they will be smooth, hard and dry.
It is most convenient to examine the roots by removing the substrate and washing the underground part of the plant. So, the following will indicate rotting:
- Darkening of the root system.
- When you press on the root, liquid will flow.
- The roots have a collapsed and thread-like appearance.
- There are slimy and wet areas on the root system.
Rotten and dried roots cannot be saved. They need to be cut using a sharp, disinfected device. You need to trim so as to capture a small part of healthy tissue. Pruning will not affect the viability of the plant, which will be properly cared for in the future.
Next, you need to process the sections using ground cinnamon or crushed activated carbon. Any of these products has disinfectant properties. Then leave the roots to dry. After this, you can immerse the root system in the fungicide solution for about 10-15 minutes to protect the plant from damage by harmful fungi. Healthy areas are treated with growth stimulants to accelerate the growth of the root system and increase immunity to diseases.
Drugs for treatment
In this section we will look at how to treat an orchid from rot.
Fitosporin
The basis of microbiological Fitosporin, effective in the fight against fungi and bacteria, is the natural bacterial culture of Bacillus subtilis. Systemic work, the ability to spread through blood vessels, allows it to successfully suppress infectious agents.
The effectiveness against a wide range of fungal and bacterial diseases is caused by the presence of humate in the composition of various fillers and OD, which enhances the fungicidal effects and stabilizes the characteristics for a long time. Due to these characteristics, the shelf life is about 2 years, and shelf life is not limited.
Fitosporin.
The main use of Fitosporin is preventive treatment . For diseases in a serious stage it is ineffective.
The use and administration of the drug is carried out strictly according to the instructions . In orchids it is used to treat the soil and root part before planting.
Has a low danger rating and does not pose a threat . Upon contact, it sometimes causes irritation to the mucous membranes, so basic hygiene is required.
Quadris
Systemic fungicide from the group of strobilurins and the active substance Azoxystrobin. It is in demand as a preventive and therapeutic agent.
The high hazard class warns gardeners about careful use for indoor plants. Protects after treatment for about 2 weeks.
Foliar spraying is effective for treating fungi and bacteria.
Quadris.
Copper sulfate
Acts as a fungicide and antiseptic . The main active ingredient is copper sulfate, the ions of which react to the enzyme complexes of fungal or bacterial cells and, thereby, cause irreversible changes.
In addition to treating diseases, copper is a foliar feeding . Antiseptic properties help disinfect the substrate and flower container.
It is used both for soil treatment and for spraying. Concentration is carried out strictly according to the instructions for decorative indoor plants.
Hazard class 3 can cause severe irritation to the mucous membranes in humans, so treatment requires gloves and goggles. Follow all hygiene rules.
Bordeaux mixture
It is one of the most powerful remedies against fungal and bacterial infections. It is made using special proportions of quicklime and copper sulfate (copper sulfate and calcium oxide).
Copper sulfate acts as a poison against fungi and bacteria, and calcium oxide acts as an oxidizing agent neutralizer and prevents burns on plants.
Bordeaux mixture is one of the most aggressive means of fighting infections.
Important! Experienced flower growers do not recommend using Bordeaux mixture for treating orchids , since the delicate parts of the plant can be easily burned with the product. It is better to use drugs that do not contain copper.
Mikosan
A biological product whose action is aimed at increasing the resistance of plants to fungal pathogens . It stimulates the production of lectins in tissues, which disrupt the growth and development of fungi and bacteria. Mikosan does not kill the disease , but stimulates the plant to fight it.
The product can be used only at the initial stage of the disease, when the first spots and spots appear on the leaves. Even suspicious stains can be treated.
Attention! It is pointless to treat massive areas of rot or affected leaves with Mikosan.
Biological product of hazard class 4. Simple hygiene rules are required.
Alirin
A biofungicide that suppresses fungal infections in the substrate and on the orchid . The active bacteria are Bacillus subtilis.
When used, triple treatment is required, with an interval of 7 days. Compatible with growth stimulants and insecticides.
Hazard class 4.
Step-by-step instructions on what to do if certain parts of the flower are rotten?
Sheet
If rot appears on the leaves, this means that some problem needs to be eliminated. For example, in winter, remove the plant away from the battery.
But there should be enough daylight in the room. You need to check the orchid tray, perhaps moisture has accumulated there. Bordeaux mixture or fungicide is suitable for spraying leaves. Regular feeding with complex fertilizers for orchids is also important.
Root
What to do if the root of a plant begins to rot? You need to remove the plant from the pot and remove all dead and rotten roots. They can be recognized by their brown, gray or yellow tint. Diseased roots are cut off along the living part, otherwise the rot will begin to spread further. The cut areas are treated with brilliant green or activated carbon solution .
If most of the roots have been removed, then the plant is immersed in warm and well-filtered water. You need to change the water every day, and you need to dry the root well. The room itself should be well lit, and the air temperature should be within 25 degrees.
Trunk and peduncle
If the trunk and peduncle rot, how to save them?
The trunk and peduncle usually begin to rot earlier than other parts of the flower . Therefore, measures should be taken immediately. It is necessary to immediately treat the soil and root system with a 0.3% foundation solution or a 0.2% benlate mixture. Most often, the orchid is completely immersed in this substance. This is not done often, approximately every 2 weeks.
We invite you to watch a video about treating orchids for rot:
Traditional methods of disposal
In general, only strong chemicals can cope with fungal or bacterial infections. Traditional methods can help if the focus of decay is insignificant and identified at the very initial stage.
Iodine solution
Use as a spray at the rate of: 5 drops of iodine per 5 liters of warm water.
Garlic tincture
Garlic peel in an amount of 100 g is infused in a bucket of water for 20-24 hours . The plant is treated with the prepared, strained solution.
To prepare garlic tincture, only the husk is used.
Mustard infusion
Take 50 g of dry mustard and infuse 5 liters of hot water for 48 hours in a dark, warm place. Before processing, the masterbatch is diluted with water in a 1:1 ratio.
Important! Traditional recipes are not harmful, not toxic, but even with the slightest development of fungal or bacterial infections, they are practically ineffective. You can’t do without chemicals in the fight against rot.
Folk remedies have performed well as preventive drugs.
What to process?
Chemicals
How to treat an orchid, including gray and black rot, using chemicals? Often an orchid gets sick due to various pests . Chemical agents will help restore health to your favorite flower.
But you should not use these substances in too large quantities; they should be used carefully and within reasonable limits. You should try to choose drugs with a low (class 3-4) danger threshold.
When purchasing medicines for orchids, you should always follow the instructions that come with the product.
The most popular chemical preparations for plants are:
- "Fitoverm".
- "Inta-Vir".
- "Aktara".
- "Confidor".
More toxic substances that are used for serious diseases of orchids include:
- "Vertimek".
- "Karbofos".
- "Aktellik".
Folk
Traditional methods of combating orchid diseases can also be effective; it is worth considering the most effective of them.
Soap solution .
1 tbsp dissolves in 1 liter of water. liquid soap. Other options are also suitable - grated laundry soap or even dishwashing liquid. This solution treats the entire surface of the flower, especially the leaf parts.- Tobacco infusion .
30-40 g of tobacco is poured into 1 liter of water. The mixture should sit for 24 hours, and it should be stirred periodically. A day later, the tobacco liquid is filtered and the orchid is sprayed with it. - Onion infusion .
A small onion is rubbed through a grater, and the resulting mush is poured with boiling water. The product is left untouched for 7 hours. After this, you need to treat the plant with this mixture for 3-4 days.
Prevention measures
A rotting orchid is a sad sight. To avoid encountering it, prevention should be carried out.
Effective preventive measures accumulated by the experience of orchid growers:
- comfortable temperature with differences of no more than 5° C;
- humidity 50-60%;
- moderate watering, allowing the substrate to dry out;
- removing water from the leaf axils;
- diffused and sufficient lighting;
- ventilation, avoiding drafts and cold air;
- strict adherence to the rules and concentrations of fertilizing.
Flower growers who decide to grow an exotic plant at home need to remember that a healthy, strong plant with good immunity is practically not susceptible to any kind of disease. Therefore, proper care and maintenance of the required growing conditions is the key to strong immunity and, accordingly, a healthy plant.
When can a plant no longer be saved?
Many people are interested in what to do if the plant is rotten - save or destroy the diseased plant. An orchid can be saved even when there is less than 5 cm left of its root , even if due to an oversight the core has disappeared, the leaves and flowers have withered, then it is worth making an effort and your orchid will be able to grow again.
Exceptions are cases when the cause of rotting is a disease caused by microorganisms that cannot be treated even after careful treatment, or that occurs repeatedly. In this case, it is better not to risk other plants and destroy the flower. It is also worth remembering that orchids are quite capricious, so you should not forget about its existence for a long time.
There is a moment when a rotting orchid can still be revived, but if you miss it, you will simply have to throw away the rotten flower, since nothing can be done.
Rotting is a process necessary for our life. But, like all natural processes, it requires vigilant control so as not to cause harm. Therefore, you should be a little more attentive to your home greenhouse, and it will bring you only joy, and the constant processes that were launched on Earth from the beginning will no longer upset you with their irreversibility.
