Streptocarpus: Frosty patterns, Crystal lace, Pink dreams, Fifa, Mozart, Chicken, Caramel, Kalahari, Black Swan, Lena, Margarita and others, photos of varieties Selo.Guru

Three plant groups

Unifoliate . These species have one large, constantly growing leaf, which is actually a cotyledon. This leaf reaches almost a meter in length! Several flower stalks appear in the second year. This plant blooms once and then dies. Rarely found in home collections.
Polyfolia . This is a plant with a stem and leaves, from the axils of which several flower stalks grow. Such streptocarpus are usually short and come in ampelous forms. Like the first type, it is not very common as a houseplant.
Rosette streptocarpus . They are the ones who confidently lead as inhabitants of home window sills. These plants, without stems, form rosettes like their relatives, Saintpaulias. They bloom profusely and lend themselves well to hybridization. Thanks to this, they have won well-deserved love and steadily growing popularity.

Rosette varieties, which are of the greatest interest to breeders and amateur gardeners, can be divided into groups according to flower size: relatively small, large and huge flowers. The following are photos and descriptions of the varieties: Scarlet Flower, Caucasian Captive, WaT Bird and others.

A little history

In our country, streptocarpus as a houseplant was found on window sills back in the 70-80s of the last century. However, it could hardly be called beautiful: the flowers are small, pale blue, the leaves are large and wrinkled. The main advantage of the culture is its rather long and abundant flowering, but the disadvantage is that the plant went into hibernation and shed its leaves. But in recent years, the situation has changed a lot thanks to the efforts of breeders, and a simple indoor flower has become a beautiful crop.

Where does this beautiful flower come from? From East Asia, Madagascar island. The plant was first discovered in South Africa in 1818 by botanist James Bowie. He collected the seeds and sent them to the London Botanic Garden. The plant was originally named Didimocarpus rexii, and 10 years later it was renamed Streptocarpus rexii, and subsequently it became the basis of modern hybrids. As a rule, its locations are damp forests, near water sources (sea or oceans), but sometimes streptocarpus can be found on mountain peaks and on the seashore itself.

With small and medium flowers

The first group of rosette varieties includes plants with small or medium flowers from 5 to 7 cm.

Crystal lace

The creator of the variety gave the variety the exact epithet - “super ruffle” . The most delicate light lilac shade of the upper petals. The lower ones are a pleasant yellowish-fawn color with rich purple veins. The flower is 6.5 cm. The rosette is compact, small, the leaves are hard, not hanging.

Caramel

A very “appetizing” variety! Wavy petals, the upper ones in pink and white tones, the lower ones in soft caramel colors. The flowers are small (5-6 cm).

Picnic

The flowers are relatively small (6-7 cm), with blue mesh along the petals . Background: white on top, yellow on bottom. This variety is distinguished by the fragility of its flowers.

The Scarlet Flower

Small flowers (5-6 cm). As the name suggests, they are scarlet with a white core.

Hawaiian party

5-6 cm – flower size. A real tropical riot of colors, you can’t miss it! Double flowers with a wine-red mesh and juicy specks on a pinkish background.

Meteor Rain

Small wavy flowers (5-6 cm) , the top is blue with cream splashes, the bottom is the color of thick cream with a blue edge.

Swallowtail

Watercolor tints of pink and blue shades on the upper petals, below - a purple mesh on a creamy background. Flower diameter 7 cm.

Richelieu

The exact name of this variety is “Ruchelieu”. Indeed, these are flowers 6-7 cm in size, in romantic ruffles, in deep violet-blue tones and with a light center.

Lena

Double contrasting flowers from 6.5 to 7.5 cm . The upper petals are white with a purple mesh, the lower petals are juicy crimson.

Varieties of selections

Let's first look at the main types of streptocarpus, and then move on to varieties.

Streptocarpus rocky. It is clear from the name that this species loves rocky and mountain embankments, and is most often found in such places, since the local climate cannot harm the plant. As a rule, near the sea coast the sun is very hot, but it is surprising that this streptocarpus remains undamaged by its merciless radiation. The rhizome curls and becomes woody, small leaves with fibers grow. On a straight peduncle only a few purple flowers appear, which grow for a very short time.

With large buds

The second group of rosette varieties includes plants with large flowers from 7 to 10 cm.

Frost patterns

Gorgeous large (7-8 cm) flowers with bright, juicy and at the same time delicate colors . There is a thick purple mesh against a white background of corrugated petals. The center of the flower is a magnificent combination of pure white and purple. The leaves are wavy.

Kalahari

Contrasting bright flowers 7.5 cm in diameter. The upper petals are deep purple, the lower petals are light yellow with a faint purple mesh.

Hermann

Medium flowers (7-7.5 cm), upper petals are lilac-colored, lower petals are burgundy mesh and lilac edged on a cream background.

Pink dreams

The variety belongs to the colorful group . Petals with a corrugated edge, pink. The lower petals are with a juicy mesh the color of ripe raspberries on a light background. The flower is large (9 cm). Compact rosette of leaves.

FIFA

Fancy, exquisite flowers (7-8 cm), the upper petals are deep pink, the lower ones are with a crimson mesh and the same edge on a white background. Long-flowering.

Pool

Magical, even fatal-looking flower 7.5-8 cm . Petals are corrugated, cosmic deep dark violet with light specks on it. The look is captivating – you can’t look away.

Hypnosis

There really is something psychedelic about the flowers of this variety! On a thick, almost black, background there are bright splashes of crimson and lilac. The neck of the flower is white. Flower 7-8 cm.

Chick

Petals with ruffled edges . Flowers are 7.5 cm in lemon color, with a light center with light splashes of lilac.

Black Swan

Magically bewitching, catchy large flower (8-9 cm). Wavy velvet petals are dark purple, with a slant towards black purple.

Strawberries

Large flower 7-8 cm. Densely speckled petals: strawberry on white. Breathtaking beauty!

Caucasian captive

An easy and well-flowering variety with strong peduncles and large, 8-9 cm, flowers. The upper petals are deep pink, the lower petals have a coarse raspberry-lilac mesh on a light background. White neck with yellowish stripes below.

Young lady

Subtle pink color on top and lower white petals with red mesh. Flower size 8 cm.

Waterfall

The upper petals are violet flounces, the lower ones are with a violet mesh on a white background. Flower size 7-8 cm .

Avalanche

Very large (9-10 cm in diameter) snow-white corrugated flowers.

WaT bird

Variety by Tatyana Valkova. Looks like a flower from a fairy tale! Large flowers 8 cm in diameter. The light, monochromatic upper petals contrast beautifully with the lower petals, with a rich purple mesh that turns into a thick solid tone closer to the neck. The petals have a golden corrugated border.

Draco

Really looks like a dragon! The upper petals of a large flower (7-8 cm) are of a calm pink hue, but the lower petals are in golden and purple fiery tones.

Dimetris

Whimsically ruffled, heather-colored petals , the lower ones with a purple mesh on a yellowish background.

With huge buds

The third group of rosette varieties includes plants with huge flowers over 10 cm.

Mozart

Flowers are 10 cm in diameter. The petals are large ruffles, the color of the upper ones is violet-blue, the lower ones have a lilac border and veins against the background of the color of baked milk.

Margarita

A variety with huge (10 cm) flowers, colored in a thick red wine tone . Petals with large flounces.

Himalayas

One of the large-flowered varieties (10 cm). Transparent lavender upper petals and purple mesh on a light background below.

Siberia

The flower reaches a diameter of 12 centimeters! Let’s add to this the fantastic blue-black coloring of the giant flowers... It’s almost impossible not to gasp in surprise and fall in love!

Kata Tjuta

Record variety: flowers from 10 to 13 centimeters. Corrugated, scarlet on top, gold on the bottom with scarlet veins and border.

polar night

Huge flowers (12 cm). The color corresponds to the name of the variety : thick, violet-black velvet flowers with a soft lilac center.

Problems when growing streptocarpus

If you do not respond in time to the signals given by the plant, it will bloom poorly and may even die. Possible problems:

Doesn't bloom. Streptocarpus stops flowering if it does not have enough light - this situation is often observed with short daylight hours. Artificial lighting must be installed.
The leaves have withered. The reason may lie in lack of moisture. If the soil is wet, but the leaves are still dry, the roots are probably rotten. We need to save the plant by replanting it with leaves.
The leaves and stems have turned yellow. The reason is low indoor humidity or sunburn.
There are “rusty” spots on the leaves. The reason is an excess of fertilizers or excessive moisture.

Care

The optimal soil for these indoor flowers is light, breathable, and loose.

Attention! Streptocarpus needs a fairly spacious, wide pot due to the characteristics of its root system.

Watering in the summer - two or three times a week. For streptocarpus, a good temperature is about 24C. Cold and drafts are destructive for them, as is too much heat. You can create a period of rest for them during the winter months. To do this, it is advisable to lower the temperature (to 14 degrees Celsius or lower) and reduce watering to once a week.

During the flowering period, streptocarpus is important to feed with mineral fertilizers . In addition, faded flowers and dry leaves should be removed promptly.

We talked more about proper care of streptocarpus in a separate article.

Rules for caring for streptocarpus

If you provide streptocarpus with good care, it will develop well and bloom luxuriantly. This plant is viable and undemanding; the main thing is to replant and rejuvenate it in time.

Watering

Streptocarpus has few leaves, so it evaporates little moisture. Irrigation features:

In spring and summer, moisture is systematic, but moderate. The soil should not dry out.
In October, watering begins to be reduced, in winter it becomes completely scarce, and yet the substrate should not dry out.
Water the plant with settled water at room temperature. It must sit for at least 24 hours.
Water is poured away from the stem - along the edges of the pot.
Overmoistening the soil is unacceptable - the roots may rot.

Feeding

The plant is fed carefully; if you overfeed it, the flowering will be less abundant. Features of feeding streptocarpus:

During the growing season, the plant is fertilized 3-4 times.
The best feeding is complex mineral fertilizer.
The plant is given a 50% dose of fertilizer from the rate specified by the manufacturer.
Use fertilizers for flowering plants.
Apply fertilizing during watering.

Transfer

Young plants have to be replanted periodically. It is recommended to do this every year. I replant adult plants every 3-4 years. Transplantation is best done in the spring.

Pots for transplantation are filled with substrate. The soil mixture for young plants should not contain turf soil.

Sequence of streptocarpus transplantation:

Take a pot with a diameter 2 cm larger than the previous one. Place expanded clay or foam balls on the bottom.
Pour the substrate or your own prepared soil mixture into the pot and water it. Make a hole in the center.
Take the bush out of the old pot, shake it off a little of the soil and place it in a new pot, in a pre-made hole. The plant should fit in it so that it does not need to be deepened.
Add substrate if necessary. Firm gently with your hand and water again.

After a week, the transplanted plant can be moved to a greenhouse with good ventilation.

Rejuvenation

If an adult plant is transplanted, its rejuvenation is carried out at the same time:

Cut off about a third of the roots with scissors.
Remove all lower leaves that are damaged or dried out.
Deepen the bush so that part of its stem, which was exposed after the leaves were torn off, sinks into the soil.

During a rejuvenating transplant, the plant is transferred to a pot of similar capacity - there is no need to take a larger pot. It is recommended to transplant the rejuvenated streptocarpus into a new pot, or at least boil the old one.

Watch a useful video about transplantation and rejuvenation of streptocarpus:

Bloom

Streptocarpus blooms from spring to autumn, in winter there is a dormant period that passes without shedding foliage. Bell-shaped flowers can be white, red, blue, yellow, purple. Hybrid varieties have inflorescences painted in 2-3 colors.

Trimming

Streptocarpus does not need special pruning. But in order to maintain its decorative effect, it is necessary to remove withered leaves, dried stems and inflorescences in a timely manner. In favorable conditions, the plant can bloom in winter.

Rest period

Streptocarpus is not a flower that necessarily needs winter dormancy. If the grower does not want to bother with additional lighting and monitor growing conditions in winter, you can send the plant to “winter.”

Conditions for the winter period:

The plant is transferred to a room with a temperature of no more than +18-20 °C.
Watering is kept to a minimum; the soil is moistened only when it is completely dry.
Lighting – 7-8 hours. The plant is not placed in the dark.
Feeding is stopped in winter.

Streptocarpus is removed from its dormant state at the end of February - during this period the plant’s vitality is activated. The flower is transplanted into a new pot and transferred to a warmer room.

If the flower is mature, you can also divide it into parts during transplantation. A month after transplantation, the flower begins to be fed and watered more often.

Selection of support

Among streptocarpus there are varieties with long peduncles - up to 50 cm. It is difficult for stems of such length to hold inflorescences. Thin shoots bend and flowers droop down. In this case, the plant needs support - any stick or special plastic holders will do.

Growing conditions and features

There are several options for propagating streptocarpus.

Seeds (mainly used by breeders).
Dividing the plant.
Plants are planted in new containers, drying the cuts and sprinkling them with coal.
After a couple of months, the new plants will acquire their own root system and large leaves.
Fragments of leaves. One of the most popular ways:
1. the sheet is cut into several parts;

Soon the leaves take root and independent plants are formed.

Microclones (breeders' method).

You can learn more about the features of growing bright streptocarpus in this article.

Growing streptocarpus at home

Flowering and development of streptocarpus depends on growing conditions. In order for a flower to bloom magnificently, it needs certain soil and temperature conditions with a certain level of humidity.

Soil selection

Soil requirements:

Good air permeability, looseness and porosity. Oxygen must flow freely to the roots, otherwise the plant will lag in growth and die.
Moderate acidity – pH level 6.5-6.9.

The best solution is to purchase a ready-made substrate for Saintpaulias with high-moor peat. And add baking powder to it - perlite. You cannot dilute the substrate with a vermiculitor - it can cause acidification of the soil.

You can prepare soil for streptocarpus yourself from:

deciduous soil;
high peat;
crushed bark;
sand.

All ingredients are taken in equal parts.

Choosing a pot

Streptocarpus has well-developed surface roots, so it needs a wide container of low height. A drainage layer of pebbles, expanded clay or broken ceramics is placed at the bottom. The pot should have drainage holes.

For young plants, take pots with a diameter of 8 cm. When replanting streptocarpus, as it grows, the size of the pots is increased by 2 cm each time, reaching 12 cm. There is no point in planting this flower in pots that are too large.

Instead of replanting, rejuvenation is practiced - the plant is dug up and planted.

Lighting, temperature and humidity

Streptocarpus requirements for growing conditions:

Lighting. Grows and blooms well in bright, diffused light. Does not like direct sunlight - they can burn the foliage. In winter, pots are placed on southern windows, in other seasons - on western or eastern windows. The plant is not placed on northern windows. To help plants grow and develop better, turn on lamps - fluorescent or LED. They are placed at a distance of 20 cm from the plant. The optimal illumination level is 5-6 thousand lux.
Temperature. Optimal values are from +15 to +25 °C. The plant does not tolerate heat well. At +32-35 °C its root system may die. In winter, the temperature should be minimal – +15 °C.
Humidity. When humidity is low, the tips of the plant's leaves dry out. Dried leaves are trimmed and the flowers are sprayed with a spray bottle.

Unlike violets, streptocarpus are not afraid of drafts; they can be displayed on balconies and verandas.

Landing

The technology for planting streptocarpus depends on the planting material. Most often, a flower is purchased for the first time as a baby - in specialized stores or at flower exhibitions.

The baby grows in a small glass; when it fills its entire volume with roots, transplant the plant into a pot. But there is no need to wait until the plant produces its first flower - there is no need for it to waste energy before replanting.

Planting streptocarpus:

Prepare a small pot. Place a drainage layer of expanded clay or pebbles, and a universal flower substrate on top.
Water the plant you are planting so that its roots can be easily removed from the planting container.
Shake off the soil from the root collar, and shorten the long leaves - cut with scissors.
Plant the plant in a new pot, trying to straighten the rosette - if it is slightly skewed. Young shoots should look straight up. Do not bury the growing point in the ground.
Water the plant and place it in a window, but not in a south-facing window, to avoid direct sunlight.

Diseases and pests

Streptocarpus, which do not require much, are still susceptible to a number of problems. Here are some of them.

Red spider mite .
If you find a pest, treat the plant with a fungicide or phytoverm and tie it in a plastic bag for a couple of days. Repeat treatment after seven to ten days. Reference! For prevention, it is best to treat all plants with phytoverm once every month and a half.
Gray rot . When overwatered, the roots and above-ground parts of the plant may rot. If this happens, treat the plant with a solution of potassium soap and copper sulfate. Prevention - maintaining an optimal watering regime, adding activated carbon, peat, sphagnum, perlite to the soil.
Powdery mildew . To prevent its appearance, you need to thin out the bush, preventing it from becoming dense. It also appears when there is excessive soil moisture. If it appears, you need to remove the affected parts of the plant, replace the top layer of soil, and treat the streptocarpus itself and the soil with fungicides.

You can learn about common diseases and pests of streptocarpus, methods of treating them, and also see photos of plants here.

Undoubtedly, streptocarpus is one of the most interesting indoor plants. If you like luxuriously blooming exotics that do not require any supernatural efforts when growing and maintaining, then this is your plant. Breeders continue to surprise with new varieties, so adding to your collection will easily become your favorite hobby.

Reproduction of streptocarpus

Streptocarpus is propagated by different methods - cuttings, leaves, seeds and dividing the bush. Every flower lover chooses a propagation option, taking into account the characteristics of the variety or his own preferences. Let's take a closer look at each method.

Leaf

Few plants can be propagated by leaves, and Streptocarpus is one of them. Leaves are purchased from reliable suppliers of planting material or cut from an adult plant.

Elastic and fresh leaves are chosen for propagation. Freshly cut, they can be planted immediately. Purchased leaves - if they are wilted, leave them in water for 3-4 hours.

Stages of leaf propagation:

Cut the leaf so that it has a dense stalk.
Place the leaf in a hole made in a peat tablet, or plant it in a pot with fertile soil - it is prepared from peat, perlite and sphangum (3: 1: 1).
Water the soil with potassium permanganate and cover the pot with something transparent. Remove the cover regularly to ventilate leafy seedlings and eliminate condensation.

The leaves will take root after a month and a half. The leaf begins to develop micro-leaves – “babies”. Each of them can become an independent plant - just transplant it into a separate container.

To obtain a large amount of planting material, the leaf is cut into several parts, each of which must have a middle stalk.

Streptocarpus leaves can simply be placed in water - they will take root, and then they are transplanted into the ground.

Useful tips for propagating a flower by leaf are given in the video below:

A fragment of a sheet

If you only got one streptocarpus leaf, you can also propagate the plant you like. One piece of leaf is enough to grow a plant.

Reproduction by leaf fragment:

Cut the leaf into pieces 3-5 cm long. You need fragments from the middle of the leaf - discard the top, it will wither and will not produce children.
Prepare the rooting mixture – it should be as light as possible. You can mix the substrate for violets with vermiculite (1:1).
Powder the bottom cut of the leaf with coal and bury it 0.5 cm into the soil.
Water the plantings with a small amount of water. Subsequently, water the propagated streptocarpus from a spray bottle. But don’t overdo it, it’s better to dry it a little than to over-moisten it. Excess moisture will cause leaf fragments to rot.
Keep the "kindergarten" in a warm, well-lit place, but not in direct sunlight.

In 1.5-2 months the babies will appear - these are already independent plants. When they have 2-3 leaves, they can be transplanted into a separate container.

Handle

Streptocarpus cuttings do not take root in water - they quickly rot. They must be planted immediately in the substrate.

Planting cuttings:

Fill the glasses with a mixture of peat, perlite and sphagnum moss (3:1:1). Or prepare peat tablets - they need to be soaked in warm water.
Treat the cut with a root formation stimulator.
Cut off the top part of the leaf, and strengthen the remaining cuttings in a peat tablet or in a glass with substrate.
Water the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate.
Place the tablets/cups in a greenhouse or plastic container with a lid. Place the plantings in a well-lit place.
Ventilate the container regularly.

Babies on cuttings will appear in 1-1.5 months. When the leaves of the children grow to 2 cm, you can transplant them into separate pots.

Cluster division

Mature plants are most easily propagated by division. This method allows you to quickly get a new flowering streptocarpus. Another advantage of the method is the renewal of an old flower.

Step-by-step instruction:

Remove the flower from the pot. Shake the soil off the roots. Divide the roots into several parts - each should have at least one leaf. Separate the roots carefully; you can use a sharp knife. One adult plant is usually divided into 2-3 parts.
Take charcoal powder and sprinkle it on the incision areas - this is necessary for disinfection.
Choose a wide pot. Pour a 1 cm thick drainage layer into it, and then fertile, loose soil.
Make a hole in the soil and lower one of the cuttings into it. Each part of the bush needs a separate pot.
Fill the roots with soil and compact it with your hands.
Water the flower with a weak solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection. This event prevents the appearance of fungi and root rotting.
Cover the pots with the planted cuttings with film, which you remove daily to ventilate the plantings and remove condensation.

Rooting of the cuttings occurs in about 2 weeks.

Streptocarpus, although perennials, lose their attractiveness in the third year of life. To prolong the flowering state, the bushes are renewed by dividing the rhizome into parts.

Seeds

The flower is propagated by seeds only by experienced gardeners. Disadvantages of the method:

A lot of time is spent - more than six months pass from the moment of planting to the appearance of flowers.
Varietal characteristics may be lost.

Stages of propagation by seeds:

When the plant fades and the seeds are ripe, tear off the inflorescences and let them dry completely. Remove the dried seeds from the seed pods.
Prepare a container for sowing. Place a drainage layer of expanded clay into a low and wide container. Make holes in the bottom if there are none. Pour fertile substrate over the drainage.
Scatter the seeds over the leveled soil and spray them with a weak solution of potassium permanganate from a spray bottle.
Cover the crops with transparent film and place in a warm place.
As soon as the shoots appear, ventilate the mini-greenhouse to remove any condensation that forms.
After 10 days, remove the cover. Water the seedlings with a spray bottle. Make sure there is good lighting and maintain a temperature of at least +22 °C.
When the seedlings get stronger, plant them in separate pots. The first flowers will appear after 10 months.

The following video shows the stages of growing streptocarpus from seeds: