Pachistachys was brought to Europe by travelers from the tropical forests of America. Under natural conditions, the flower can also be found in eastern India and in the coastal forests of Australia. The exotic plant is a representative of the Acanthus family; in its genus, according to various sources, there are from 12 to 17 species of perennial evergreen shrubs up to 1-2 meters in height.
Pachistachis is a lush bush with branched erect stems, on which rather large dark green leaves are attached oppositely. They are oval in shape with a pointed tip, and their length reaches 12 cm. Clearly visible veins give the leaves a special decorative appearance, making the leaf plate look slightly ribbed.
The plant received its name, which means “thick ear,” due to the shape of the spike-shaped inflorescences. Interestingly, they are nothing more than bracts consisting of many sepals, which are most often colored yellow-orange. In appearance, the inflorescences resemble curly pointed candles about 12 cm high.
During the flowering period, white or red tubular flowers bloom from the bracts of Pachistachys. They are short-lived and fall off fairly quickly. However, the ear itself stays on the bush for a very long time, giving the plant a bright decorative appearance throughout the entire flowering period - from spring to autumn. Sometimes you can count up to 20 bright golden “candles” on a plant.
In warm countries with tropical and subtropical climates, where pachistachis is especially popular, it is widely used in landscaping gardens and parks as a flowering perennial shrub. Local flower growers affectionately call it “golden candle” and “golden shrimp”. In central Russia, pachistachis can be found in garden plots, where it lives as an annual crop. But most of all, it is loved by Russians as a houseplant, which has been decorating the home interior with its exquisite appearance for many years.
Care for indoor growing
- Lighting.
To grow a bush, you need a place with sufficient lighting, soft diffused light, devoid of direct sunlight. For this purpose, a pot with a plant should be placed on the window sills of windows with an eastern or western orientation. If the pachistachis will be exposed to the midday rays of the sun, then it is worth arranging shading using curtains made of light translucent fabrics, or you can stick paper or tracing paper on the glass. However, in winter, it is necessary that the plant has enough lighting and to do this, provide additional lighting using phytolamps or fluorescent lamps. - Temperature of pachistachis content.
The plant does not like extreme temperature changes and moderate thermal indicators are most suitable for it. During the spring-summer months, it is worth maintaining 20–23 degrees of heat, but if the thermometer begins to show more than 24 degrees, then it is necessary to intensively increase the humidity of the environment around the plant. With the arrival of autumn until the beginning of the spring months, the heat should be maintained within 16–19 degrees. If the readings drop below 14 degrees, the plant may not tolerate it. If the bush is placed next to central heating radiators or heating devices, this will significantly damage the growth and appearance of pachistachis. The bush simply needs an influx of fresh air, but it needs to be protected from drafts. - Air humidity.
Since this is a representative of tropical and subtropical territories, it prefers high levels of moisture in the air most of all. Spraying should be carried out almost constantly, using warm, soft water. If the air humidity is low, then this operation is carried out at least once a day, and sometimes 2-3 times a day. To increase humidity, you can place a flower pot in a deep and wide tray, into which expanded clay, pebbles are poured, or chopped sphagnum moss is laid, then a little water is poured into it. It is important that the bottom of the flowerpot does not touch moisture, so as not to cause rotting of the roots. - Watering the “golden ear”.
With the arrival of spring days, until the end of summer, pachistachis must be moistened quite abundantly. Good and constant soil moisture is a prerequisite, but it should not be swampy - watering can be done every three days. As soon as temperatures begin to drop, moistening is slightly reduced and carried out only after 1–2 days have passed after the 1–2 cm layer of substrate in the pot has dried out. But it is also important not to allow the lump of earth in the pot to dry out completely, as the plant responds very negatively to this. In order to moisten the substrate, soft water is used, completely free of lime and salt impurities. To obtain such water, it is necessary to filter or boil tap water, followed by settling for several days. The temperature for irrigation should not go beyond 20–23 degrees Celsius. It is also very good to use collected water collected after rain or melted snow. - Pachistachis fertilizers.
The plant must be supported with fertilizing from the beginning of the active growth period (April) until the end of autumn. For this purpose, fertilizers containing complexes of all minerals or organic solutions (they make mullein solutions) are suitable. This procedure is combined with watering. It is necessary to wet the soil well with moisture and only then apply fertilizer. The regularity of fertilizing is once every 2-3 weeks. - Plant pruning.
To create an attractive appearance, pachistachis requires regular pruning and pinching. If the plant grows in
natural environment, then in order for it to receive enough light, it needs to grow intensively at a young age. And therefore, its lateral branching begins after reaching a height of 80 cm. While the plant reaches this level, only one trunk stretches out, which does not look very decorative in apartment conditions. It is better to begin to form the leaf mass from a young age of the bush, by pinching and pruning, so flowering in the first year should be abandoned. As soon as the pachistachis develops to a height of 10–15 cm, the first pruning is done. It is worth plucking out the third pair of leaves from the side shoots to develop dormant buds. And they do the same with the next level of escapes. By performing this action 3-4 more times, you can get up to 12 new tops of the plant in the first year. Before the period of active growth, it is necessary to trim or pinch out all the tips of the shoots. So, in the end, you can get up to 24 vertices and such a plant can already be allowed to flourish. When the flowering process is completed, each faded shoot will split into two and bloom again. This will continue until the very end of the season. And next spring, make new pinching or pruning. - Recommendations for choosing soil and replanting pachistachis.
It is recommended to change the pot of the plant annually in the spring. During this operation, the bush is trimmed a little. The container must provide high-quality and powerful drainage, as well as holes for draining excess moisture. If the plant has just been purchased, then the pot and substrate are immediately changed.
The soil must maintain loose conditions and good air and water permeability. You can use ready-made purchased soil for ornamental and flowering plants grown indoors. In order to lighten the substrate, sand or agroperlite (perlite) is usually added to it. The soil mixture is made from the following components:
- turf soil, coarse river sand (perlite), peat soil, humus soil (in proportions 2:1:1:1);
- clay-turf soil, peat, leaf soil, humus, coarse sand (in the same proportions).
Reproduction methods
Pachistachis is most often propagated by cuttings. You can use stems cut during pruning in the spring as cuttings. Please note that each apical cutting must have 2 internodes and the same number of pairs of leaf blades. Place the cuttings in a vessel filled with water, cut side down, and provide them with an air temperature of about 22 degrees. Then rooting will take place as quickly as possible. During the rooting process, leaf plates may fly around. To avoid this, each leaf is shortened by ½ part. However, despite all efforts, the foliage may still fall off. But you shouldn’t be discouraged, because after planting the rooted cuttings in the soil mixture, new leaf plates will form on its upper part.
To root segments, you can also use a light soil mixture, which includes: leaf and turf soil, perlite, peat and humus (taken in equal parts). Cut off the top of a plastic bottle and fill it with soil mixture. Treat the cutting site with Kornevin, after which it is planted in the substrate. Cover the top of the cutting with a transparent cap, for example, film. Provide the area with regular ventilation and watering. Instead of film, you can put the upper part of the bottle on the cut-off bottle. Then, to ventilate the plant, it will be enough to just unscrew the plug. Rooting cuttings are placed in a well-lit place (the light should be diffused).
As a rule, pachistachis cuttings root very well. Root regrowth is observed even in those cuttings that have lost their foliage. After rooting is completed, the cuttings are planted in a permanent pot. To do this, take a low and wide pot, in which 3 or 4 plants are planted, so the pachistachis will look more impressive. Remember to regularly pinch the upper parts of the shoots; as a result, the bush will branch more strongly.
Pachistachis cuttings
Kinds
The genus of plants is not very numerous, only 12 species are registered in it. Only 2-3 main varieties are found in culture (even in botanical gardens), the rest of the plants can only be seen in the wild.
Pachistachis yellow. The subshrub, 90-120 cm high, is distinguished by erect, highly branched shoots. The stems are covered with dark green bark, and gradually become woody in the lower part. Oval sessile foliage grows oppositely, crosswise. Both edges are strongly elongated and narrowed. The dark green shiny leaf plate grows 15-20 cm in length and 4-6 cm in width. Its surface is covered with embossed veins. In March-September, large erect ears, 10-15 cm long, bloom. They are covered with golden bracts, from which white or cream two-lipped flowers appear in turn. They consist of linear curved petals and a small number of thread-like stamens of light green color.
Pachistachis red. It is also called the “Cardinal's Guard” because the inflorescence resembles a red feather on a hat. The plant forms a large spreading bush almost 2 m high. Strongly elongated oval leaves on short petioles grow on the shoots. Their length in nature can be 40 cm. The leaves are dark green and sometimes covered with burgundy streaks. In mid-spring, dense ears with dark green scales bloom. Red tubular flowers open from underneath them. The corolla consists of 4 belt-shaped petals. The lower three are curved down, and the fourth, like a sail, hangs over them. Long thread-like stamens with large yellow anthers peek out from the center.
Pachystachys spikelet. The plant is rarely found in homes, as it requires more careful care. It forms a lush bush up to 1 m high. Dark green oval leaves up to 25 cm long are curved in an arc along the central vein. In spring, narrow, long inflorescences appear, covered with green, inconspicuous scales. At the same time, the variety blooms more profusely, blooming several bright red flowers at once with large orange-yellow anthers.
Types of pachystachys domestica with photos and names
The Pachistachis genus cannot be called numerous: it has only 12 varieties, differing in color, shape of inflorescences, and also the size of the bush. The most popular species is yellow pachystachys (Pachystachys lutea).
Pachystachys lutea
Pachistachis yellow is a shrub about 1 m high, with a dense crown formed by erect, partially lignified shoots. The leaves are dark green in color, broadly oval with narrowed tips and distinct ribbed veins. The inflorescences are spike-shaped with bright yellow bracts and long spongy flowers, colored milky white.
Rarer varieties of pachystachys, practically not cultivated at home, are red pachystachys (P. coccinea) and spikelet pachystachys (Pachystachys spicata).
Changes in the appearance of the plant
Causes:
- Too high a temperature leads to the appearance of brown spots on the leaves, their yellowing and falling off;
- Drafts and too low air temperatures lead to leaf fall;
- Leaves turn yellow due to insufficient watering, lack of light and low air humidity;
- Lack of light affects the splendor of the plant;
- Failure to comply with the watering regime leads to the death of the root system.
For the harmonious and proper development of pachistachis, it needs regular ventilation.
Diseases and pests
Pachistachis is an unpretentious and fairly hardy plant, but sometimes it is still affected by some health problems:
- the lower leaves of pachistachis wither - the flower does not have enough moisture, it is necessary to adjust the watering regime;
- the lower leaves of pachistachis fall off - this is a common stage of development and aging of the plant; falling leaves can only be combated by regular anti-aging pruning of the bush. Pachistachis can also abruptly shed its leaves when exposed to cold or draft;
- pachystachys does not bloom - flowers bloom only on young shoots; in order for the plant to enjoy lush flowering again, it must be rejuvenated by pruning and pinching. In addition, the plant may not have enough sun, in which case it is moved to a brighter place;
- pachystachys flowers rot and fall off - a rather rare phenomenon that occurs due to improper watering and drafts;
- pale leaves of pachystachys are a sign of lack of light and moisture. Good lighting and regular watering will help restore the crown’s rich color;
- the tips of the leaves dry out and turn yellow - the room where the pachistachis is located has dry air and is too hot. Frequently spraying the plant with soft water can solve the problem.
Flower growers may also encounter unnatural stretching of the plant's shoots, shredding of its leaves and flowers - this is evidence of insufficient lighting; to correct the situation, the pachistachis must be moved to a sunnier place. And if the plant has slowed down in growth or stopped developing altogether - the food reserves in the soil have been depleted, this means that pachistachis needs urgent feeding.
Flowers planted in heavy soil or exposed to too much watering often get sick. A plant that has already suffered from improper care can only be saved by transplanting it into a new loose substrate and strictly observing the watering regime.
Among the pests that show interest in pachistachis, the following insects pose the greatest danger to the plant:
- spider mite;
- mealybug;
- scale insects and whiteflies;
- thrips.
Uses of pachystachys
Lush, long-flowering pachistachis bushes are suitable for landscaping residential and public spaces. They are planted in small pots and large flowerpots. In summer, you can decorate balconies and verandas with these flowers. Rooted cuttings are taken outside for hardening in mid-April, and planted in open ground in May. In the southern regions, the plant feels great in the garden throughout the year. It is used to create bright flower beds, borders or low hedges. In central Russia in the fall, plants will die from the cold if they are not dug up and brought indoors.
Transplantation, feeding, propagation of pachistachis
Areca palm - home care and reproduction
Since pachystachys is an actively flowering plant
(and if you create the right conditions for it in winter, it will bloom constantly), it
needs intensive feeding
.
Pachistachis should be fertilized at least twice a month with mineral fertilizers or fertilizers for flowering plants (can be alternated) during the period of active flowering of the plant. In winter, if your pachystachys does not bloom, the frequency of fertilizing can be reduced to once a month. Pachistachis grows quite quickly
, and with proper pruning and care, the pachistachis bush can reach impressive sizes. In this regard, pachistachis is a plant that is suitable both for placement on a windowsill (small specimens) and for placement on the floor, if the pachistachis has grown to a significant size. Pachistachis should be replanted as it grows, usually in the spring, before flowering begins. The soil for replanting should be chosen to be loose and light; many gardeners advise mixing the soil mixture with crushed charcoal, which will protect the roots from rotting. When choosing a pot, preference should be given to wide, but not too deep containers.
The most convenient and frequently used method of propagating Pachistachis is cuttings.
. A pachistachis cutting, at least 8-10 cm long (you can take a cutting either flowering or not - there is no consensus among flower growers on this matter; some argue that a flowering cutting is required for good rooting), rooted in a moist, loose substrate ( or a glass of water). At the same time, for good rooting, the creation of greenhouse conditions will be required. To do this, the cutting should be covered with a plastic bag, which should be removed daily to ventilate the plant; in addition, the rooted cutting should be thoroughly moistened, since Pachistachis loves moisture. This mini-greenhouse should be kept in a warm, well-lit place. After the roots appear, the cutting can be transplanted into a larger pot. In order for the plant to take root well in a new place and the acclimatization process to occur favorably, after transplantation, pachistachis can be watered with a solution of vermicompost. Also, speaking about the propagation of pachistachis, it should be noted that you can take cuttings for planting from an adult plant all year round, so you can grow a new plant at any time, whenever you want. Today we met another guest from South America who feels very comfortable in our apartments - Pastachis. This southern plant can transform any interior with its original appearance - it looks equally good as floor decor and as a classic window decoration - in pots on the windowsill. In a word, with pachistachis you can choose exactly where in your apartment you will create a small corner of a tropical oasis.
Why do pachystachys leaves curl?
As a rule, the reason lies in non-compliance with growing rules:
- The air in the room is too dry, especially in the autumn-winter period, when the heating system is turned on. You can simply fix the problem by placing the flowerpot with the plant in a tray with wet pebbles or expanded clay;
- Sudden temperature change. In this case, the leaves not only curl, but may also fall off.
Possible problems in growing
Growing Pachistachis yellow, violating the rules of care at home, problems may arise. Therefore, many people turn to specialists with the most common questions.
- Why do pachystachys leaves curl? The plant may not receive enough sunlight, so the leaves curl up to protect themselves. But later, if proper care is not taken, they will stop curling and become dry.
- Why doesn't Pachistachis bloom? In the process of breeding the plant, it is recommended to follow all the rules of care. If pruning was not carried out in spring, flowering will not occur, since only old shoots will be observed from above. A small amount of nutrients passes through them, so flowering is impossible.
Pachistachis can be affected by various diseases if care instructions are not followed.
- Why do brown or white spots appear? This may indicate that the flower has been infected with a disease. It can be fungal, viral, or bacterial in nature. If white spots appear, this is a symptom of fungal growth. A brown tint occurs when infected with bacteria.
- Which type of flower is best to choose for your home? It is recommended to choose yellow pachystachys, since it reaches only 1 m in height. This allows you to grow it at home. But in order to wait for abundant flowering, you need to familiarize yourself with all the rules on how to care for pastachis.
- Why did the leaves start to fall? Falling leaves indicate insufficient watering or application of fertilizers. Plants do not receive sufficient nutrients and water, so the leaves die off.
Growing a plant is not easy. But if you follow all the rules of care, no problems should arise. To achieve maximum results during the flowering process, it is recommended to promptly resort to pruning and replanting into a larger pot, which allows you to grow an abundant root system.
Reproduction at home
Pachistachis is propagated mainly by cuttings. You can do this at any time of the year, but the most convenient time is during spring pruning of bushes. To obtain complete material for future propagation, it is advisable to cut shoots that have two internodes. Root cuttings at a temperature not lower than 20°C and high humidity. The cuttings are sprayed with water daily. To ensure rooting occurs quickly, experienced gardeners cover each cutting with a glass jar or a transparent plastic bag. Several times a week, remove the cover for two hours so that the soil is ventilated and receives a portion of fresh air.
In water, the cuttings take root on average in two weeks, after which they are planted in seedling cups with substrate. After a while, the cuttings are placed in small pots (12 centimeters in diameter). The next step is to place the cutting in a pot intended for an adult plant. Gradual transshipment with a gradual increase in soil volume in Pachistachis stimulates active flowering. To make the bush grow voluminous and lush, you can plant several plant seedlings in one pot at once. To make the shoots branch more actively, they are regularly pinched.
general description
Pachistachis is an attractive evergreen plant or shrub with slender shoots about one meter high. On its dark green, elongated, oppositely located leaves, the veins clearly appear; they reach a length of 15 cm.
The plant is valued for its beautiful spike-shaped inflorescences, similar to slender candles with a pointed top 10-12 cm high. There can be up to 20 inflorescences on a bush at the same time. Pachystachys flowers are white, two-lipped, with a deep notch, long, up to 5 cm. They bloom for a very short time, peeking out one by one from the bract, starting from the bottom. The bract of the plant is decorative. It is golden yellow in color and stays on the pastachys from March to October.
How to care for a yellow ear
Pachistachis grows best on western and eastern windows. Here he receives enough lighting, being protected from direct sunlight. This flower is tropical, but loves light and high temperatures, so it cannot be kept cool. At temperatures below +16°C it begins to lose its leaves.
Pachistachis in nature
It is best to keep it at room temperature, which does not fall below +12°C, while drafts and dry air are unacceptable during the heating season. This homemade exotic is capricious to temperature changes.
Pachistachis, which is quite easy to care for, loves moisture very much. This applies not only to watering, but also to the level of humidity around it. Drying out the earthen coma is not allowed, but you should not make puddles in the pot. Watering should be regular, abundant in the hot months, but more moderate starting in the fall.
Experts recommend placing a special humidity indicator inside the pot, which will allow you to correctly determine whether the plant needs watering. This will make growing it much easier and help create optimal conditions for the development of this tropical beauty. In summer and during the heating season, it is necessary to carry out constant spraying from a spray bottle so that the air around does not dry out.
Transplantation and renewal of pachystachys
Replanting is carried out every year with the arrival of spring. The soil for the plant should not be heavy, moisture-absorbing, loose, always moist (but not wet, do not flood the plant). Special soils are offered for sale that can absorb water like a sponge, but are also porous, providing the roots with free access to oxygen.
Pachistachis yellow or red are characterized by rapid growth, so formation should not be delayed. All weak shoots must be pruned in a timely manner, branches with leaves must be shortened by about a third. In this case, you will get a lush and attractive bush that can reach a meter in height.
