Why do dracaena leaves droop?


Temperature and humidity

Dracaena feels comfortable at a temperature of 18-28 degrees.
A drop below 15 degrees is already critical for it. The leaves may look drooping if you freeze the flower. First aid is a warm shower. During a particularly hot period, you can place the flowerpot on a tray of water so that the bottom of the flowerpot does not come into contact with the surface of the water. As water evaporates, it humidifies the air.

Avoid direct sunlight, but do not hide in the shade when the sun is low on the horizon. The light should be evenly diffused. In winter, additional artificial lighting is needed.

As you can see, creating conditions for the growth of dracaena is not so difficult. An evergreen palm tree up to 35 years old is considered young and blooms from 1 to 7 times a year. Let your tree of happiness please the eye for many years.

Why did the dracaena drop its leaves?

Soil moisture

Why do dracaena leaves droop?

Dracaena loves moderately moist soil. There is no need to flood it, as the stem and roots may eventually begin to rot. This will cause the plant to begin to die before our eyes.

In the hot season, it is recommended to water the flower once every 2-3 days. You must always navigate the soil in the pot. If the soil at the base of the stem has dried out, then it needs to be moistened. It will be enough to pour in 170-200 ml of settled water at room temperature.

Proper watering will be a good preventative measure against leaf fall.

Winter is the flower's rest period. It needs watering only once every 4-6 days. And if dracaena begins to fade, what to do during this period? Again, you need to navigate along the dried soil. This is the only way to understand whether a plant needs water.

Important! If the flower pot is on the windowsill above the radiator, then the soil moisture will have to be increased a little more often.

Diagnosis of the problem

The plant gives the grower unambiguous signals. Deterioration in its appearance is a clear sign of health problems

It is important to interpret these signs correctly and know what to do in each specific case.

Table: symptoms and possible causes

External manifestationsPossible reasons
Errors in careDiseasePest
Yellowing and withering leaves.Their lifespan is about two years. Otherwise - excessive watering
Fading, shrinking leaves, deformed, thinning trunks.Lack of light.
Falling green leaves.Unsuitable room temperature (both high and too low), constant cold drafts.
Drying, curling and falling leaves.Too little watering.
Dry brown leaf tips.Low indoor humidity.
Dry tips and small areas of dead tissue on the leaves.Excess fluoride in the soil - using unsuitable fertilizers or watering with hard, unsettled water.
Leaves losing color and yellowish or almost discolored spots on them.Burn from prolonged exposure to direct sunlight. It is almost inevitable if the plant has been sprayed before. Water drops focus rays just as well as lenses.
Yellowish-white spots on the leaves, dry edges.Low room temperature or sudden changes.
A discolored “watery” border along the edge of the leaf.Excess fertilizer in the soil (too frequent fertilizing).
Reddening leaves.Unsuitable, too heavy soil with a predominance of peat.
Small white crystals on the underside of the leaf.A natural phenomenon provoked by a single heavy watering combined with high humidity.
Slow growth or its complete absence.Unsuitable soil, lack of fertilizing for a long time, or too tight a pot.
A coating similar to flour on the leaves.
Brownish trunk, soft to the touch.
Brownish spots, gradually becoming covered with gray “lint”.
Dark “watery” spots, softening tissue.
Yellowing leaves covered with dark brown spots.
Reddish-yellow, gradually turning brown spots on the leaves.
Brown spots on leaves with a bright green border.
Small beige spots with a white dot in the center.
Elongated beige spots with a pale red border.
Vague brown spots with a yellow-green border.
Dark “watery” tips of leaves, “ulcers” on the trunk.
Brownish spots and stripes cast in bronze.
Yellow spots on the leaves, petioles entwined with cobwebs.
Silvery “scratches” and small black dots on the leaves.
Brown “plaques” on the leaves, reddish-yellow tissue around them.
Small lumps of whitish substance in the axils of leaves and in the soil.
Many small yellow-green or black-brown insects on the underside of the leaves and sticky drops on them.

What errors in care lead to: examples in the photo

Dracaena, whose leaf tips dry out, suffers from too low air humidity or sunburn. Dracaena can shed its leaves for several reasons, including natural ones. This is what dracaena most often looks like before shedding its leaves. Dracaena can very easily get burned if it is sprayed leave the plant in direct sunlight. Browning, drying leaves of dracaena mean long-term neglect of the plant's need for moisture. Yellowing of leaves of dracaena reacts to overwatering

Other Possible Problems

In addition to all of the above, there are other reasons why dracaena may begin to shed its leaves and soon die (if measures are not taken in time).

Among them:

  • transfer. When the root system is actively growing and the flower increases in size, it needs a larger pot. You need to replant carefully, otherwise you may damage the root or stem. The stress that a flower receives while adapting to a new place can lead to the loss of foliage;
  • direct sunlight. It is important to choose the right place in the house where the pot with dracaena will be placed. It does not tolerate direct sunlight: it begins to dry out and the leaves turn yellow. It even happens that the stem, when drying out, can fold in half. The plant sheds its leaves and dies;
  • drafts. Dracaena does not like drafts, so a window sill is not the best place for a palm tree. Firstly, in such places the temperature fluctuations are caused by the battery, and secondly, frequent ventilation using an open window will provide unfavorable conditions for the delicate flower;
  • fertilizers Excess or lack of fertilizing leads to the fact that green leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. It is important to use complex fertilizers. During the period of active growth (March-September) they should be applied 2 times a month. To do this, you can make a solution using rainbow or ideal preparations.

Dracaena is a beautiful plant that will enrich the room with oxygen and remind you of the sea and palm trees with its appearance. The main question for gardeners is when dracaena sheds its leaves, what to do? Compliance with all maintenance rules will help to grow a healthy and strong flower. And even if the disease turned out to be stronger, and the leaves began to fall, the main thing is not to despair and provide the necessary help in time.

Causes of diseases

Ficus is a house plant that enjoys well-deserved fame among floriculture lovers. The flower is cute and unpretentious, with large and beautiful leaves. The tree is considered a long-livers, it lives up to 12-15 years.

Sometimes ficus trees can develop various kinds of diseases. They usually occur due to improper or negligent care. Pests emerge from contaminated soil, quickly attacking the roots and destroying the plant. Or the flower may freeze and die from fungi and other related infections.

Maintenance is generally simple and the requirements for gardeners are the usual - water regularly (without overwatering and not too often), do not expose to severe overheating and avoid direct sunlight. It is advisable to maintain the air temperature in the room at a standard temperature for our climate, without sudden changes; extreme temperatures should be avoided.

Ficus is never placed near a heating radiator. If heating devices are located nearby, then a moistened cloth is placed on them and on the windowsill for protection, and the surface of the flower is often sprayed with small drops. If the humidity, on the contrary, is high, then it is advisable to wait until the soil dries 2-3 cm, and then continue watering.

A number of species shed leaves in autumn and winter, but this is a gradual and painless process for the plant. If the leaves fall off too quickly, then the ficus does not have enough water or there is not enough soil in the pot, or it needs to be transplanted into soil more saturated with nutrients. The green tree does not like open ground and often change its location in the house.

If the grower takes diligent care of the plant, then the risk of disease is minimized. However, sometimes cuttings and young stems may have hidden diseases that are not noticeable at first glance. Infections and parasites (for example, nematodes) are introduced from the soil. Ficus often dies from them.

It is recommended to fertilize ficus in the warm season - once every two weeks. With the onset of autumn, they feed less often; in winter there is no need to touch the flower. Nourish the soil according to the instructions on the package so as not to overfeed. The leaves also react to excess feeding - dots and specks appear on them.

If rot appears at the base of the root, the leaves wither and curl, the culprit is most likely constant flooding. If the ficus stops growing, the soil is depleted and mineral resources are running out.

Flower shops sell soil that contains the minerals and vitamins that ficus needs for growth.

Diseases

A yellowish tint on dracaena foliage most often occurs due to a plant disease. It is very difficult to tolerate sudden changes in temperature. If you move a flower from the street to a very hot room, the edges of its leaves will begin to crack.

Why do dracaena leaves fall off - reasons

The plant also begins to hurt if it has been in the sun for a long time. Direct rays cause burns. But the lack of light is also detrimental to tropical culture. This causes the foliage to fade and become faintly colored.

Dracaenas are often susceptible to infectious diseases. In this case, the following symptoms will additionally appear:

  • slowdown in plant growth;
  • yellowing of leaves and then their falling off.

Infectious diseases are transmitted from other plants or introduced into the soil by tools during loosening. If the onset of symptoms is ignored, the flower may die.

The appearance of dark brown spots on the tips of the leaves indicates the development of a bacterial infection. The stem may turn black at the base, then begin to rot in the area of ​​the petioles. An unpleasant odor appears. If the infection is mild, it is possible to remove the diseased foliage and then spray with a growth stimulant. These measures will reduce the development of point disease.

Important! If the bacterial infection gets worse, it will be impossible to save the flower. Plant owners may experience fungal infection

Symptoms will include yellowing of the leaves, small brown spots with a red edge, and fungal spores will be visible on top of the spots.

Plant owners may encounter fungal infections. Symptoms will include yellowing of the leaves, small brown spots with a red edge, and fungal spores will be visible on top of the spots.

If the dracaena is affected by a fungus, it is necessary to remove the diseased leaves and stop spraying the plant. Then treatment should be carried out with a series of biological products.

Another infectious pathology to which a tropical plant is susceptible is Fusarium spot. When a flower is infected with it, the leaves rot, and watery spots with a yellow edging appear on the plates.

The plant will begin to dry out and shed its leaves if mold appears in the soil. Many indoor flowers are susceptible to this phenomenon. Most often the problem occurs due to improper care. Poor soil quality, insufficient lighting, high humidity levels - all this leads to the formation of mold. You can save dracaena only if you transplant it into new soil with drainage

It is important that the soil is loose

Infectious diseases of dracaena are manifested by yellowness on the leaves and the appearance of brown spots

Air temperature

The reason why Decembrist's leaves turn red and wither may be hypothermia of the flower. For the Decembrist, a temperature of +14 degrees is considered critical. With it, necrotic processes begin in plant tissues. With a further decrease, the plant begins to fade sharply. Initially, the upper leaves lose turgor, and then the rest.

The flower can only be saved by raising the temperature to +18 degrees or more with moderate watering.

Only by knowing the main reason why Decembrist leaves turn red and wither, and what to do in this situation, can the plant be restored, otherwise it will die.

Increased air temperature can also provoke a problem with the leaves of the Decembrist. With insufficient watering, the plates intensively evaporate moisture, and have no way to replenish it. Therefore, it is recommended to water the plant regularly during hot periods, preventing the earthen clod from drying out. You should also additionally spray the above-ground part in the morning so that the flower has time to absorb moisture before the evening.

In winter, the flower should not be placed close to the heating system. To prevent the flow of hot air from the battery to the pot, it is recommended to lay a sheet of polystyrene foam, the width of which will be slightly larger than the window sill.

Important! In summer, the plant should be shaded from direct sunlight, and the pot should not be overheated

What to do with a broken dracaena palm

Dracaena is a rather massive plant, so the above-ground part can simply outweigh the pot. Also, often the “fractures” she received are the result of the vigorous activity of children and pets. In this case, do not be upset. If done correctly, instead of one plant you will get two.

A broken dracaena is not a reason to cause a tragedy

The easiest way is when the barrel is broken, but not broken completely. “Splints” are placed on it, as if on an arm or leg, and the skin is fixed so that it covers the “wound” as much as possible. You can wrap the top with strips of sphagnum moss or coconut fiber.

Don't forget to "seal" the cut you make.

Otherwise, the remaining part of the plant in the pot:

  1. Saw off the trunk evenly just below the damage site. It is advisable to do this along the “scars” left by fallen leaves.
  2. Disinfect the cut with a bright pink solution of potassium permanganate or 1% Bordeaux mixture.
  3. Fill with liquid wax, paraffin, cover with garden varnish. If you don't have anything on hand, apply 2-3 coats of oil paint.
  4. Place the plant in partial shade. Water moderately. When growth buds form, return to normal care.

The side buds on the dracaena “wake up” for quite a long time, be patient

Broken top:

  1. Cut at an angle of approximately 45º. Try to do this as smoothly as possible, without fraying or nicks. Let dry for 2-3 hours.
  2. Remove offending leaves. Place in a container with the biostimulant prepared according to the instructions. You can use succinic acid and activated carbon (one tablet for every 200 ml). An alternative is rooting in damp perlite, vermiculite, or sand. The cut will need to be sprinkled with any powdered root formation stimulator.
  3. Change the water every 3-4 days, moisten the substrate regularly. Provide bottom heating, at least 12 hours of daylight and a temperature of approximately 25ºC.
  4. Be patient. The rooting process can take 3–4 months or even six months. When the first new leaf appears, replant the plant in soil suitable for adult dracaenas.

Most often, the broken top of dracaena is rooted in water

Video: rooting dracaena cuttings

Dracaena, like any indoor plant, is not immune to attacks from diseases and pests. However, it is quite resistant to them, and a tree that is properly cared for rarely suffers. However, individual errors in care, pathogenic fungi and bacteria can cause a deterioration in the appearance of dracaena. If nothing is done, the plant may even die

Therefore, it is important to be able to recognize what causes certain symptoms and know what to do to cope with the problem.

Dracaena is considered a very unpretentious indoor plant. She doesn't need special care. But in order for the flower to please the eye with its splendor and beauty for as long as possible, react in time to any changes in its appearance. What do the drooping leaves of the dracaena say?

Let's look at why this problem occurs and what needs to be done to solve it.

There may be several reasons:

  • improper watering;
  • unsuitable flowerpot;
  • nutritional deficiencies;
  • lack of moisture;
  • drafts and disturbed temperature conditions;
  • the plant was frozen.

Root rotting

There are many reasons why dracaena leaves fall. One of them is often root rotting. Excessive watering, especially during the dormant period (winter), can be the death of a false palm tree.

Important! If the soil has not dried to a depth of 2 cm, there is no need to water.

Rotting of the root system leads to disruption of the transport of water and nutrients to other organs. Dracaena first gets rid of old leaves, and then the young ones fall off.


Root rotting

The leaves are falling

Why does croton shed its leaves? What to do?

If the trunk of the codiaum is exposed at the bottom, this is a completely natural process of the death of old leaves.

Why do croton leaves fall off in the fall? This is quite normal, a pattern, in the same way at this time of year the leaves of birch trees or, for example, maples fall.

Why do croton leaves fall off? What to do? But if the top leaves also begin to fall off, the reason for this is most likely either a sharp change in the temperature regime, or too low a temperature, under which the codiaum remains for a long time.

First of all, to eliminate such a phenomenon as leaf falling, you need to take care of the conditions under which the croton is kept. It is also a good idea to use fertilizing to restore the health of the plant.

When croton sheds its leaves, the reason may be stagnation of moisture, as a result of which the root system rots. If you find that this is the reason, cut off the apical cutting and try to root it in order to re-grow the flower if the existing one dies. That's why the leaves of the croton began to fall.

Pests

Why ficus leaves fall - reasons

Pests are often found on the soil or enter the plant from neighboring infected indoor flowers. Sticky plaque, the appearance of cobwebs and spots on foliage become the main signals of an invasion. If dracaena begins to dry out, what to do about this problem and how to overcome pests?

Who to watch out for:

  • scale insect This insect is about 3-4 mm in size, practically motionless and protected by a grayish waxy shell. It sucks juices from leaves and stems, causing them to dry out and fall off;
  • thrips. Whole columns settle on the lower part of the leaf. The upper part becomes spotted and darkens;
  • spider mite A small pest that is difficult to notice. Settles on the lower part of the leaf blade. The main signs of its invasion are the appearance of cobwebs and white plaque. Fall of leaves is inevitable;
  • Mealybugs. The juice is sucked out of the plant, this stops the development and growth of the flower. A white waxy coating resembling cotton wool is left on the leaves and rosettes.


Pests on foliage are visible to the naked eye

It is recommended to observe the watering regime, temperature conditions and use insecticidal preparations. They often resort to the help of such drugs as actara, karbofos, and intavir.

Care

Dracaena is an unpretentious plant, so caring for it is simple and not burdensome. This is a light-loving plant, so it is preferable to place it on southern windows. However, during the height of summer, your pet needs to be shaded.

They need to be watered frequently, but moderately. In the summer - every other day, and do not forget to take a warm shower every week. To do this, you need water at room temperature.

When the room temperature drops to 14-16 degrees, reduce watering and the plant falls asleep. For irrigation you need to use filtered or boiled water. And you also need to remember the main rule: waterlogging is always more harmful than drying out. This rule is also relevant for dracaena, although it is moisture-loving.

If there is a lack of nutrients, even green leaves may fall off. You need to feed it with special fertilizers. Use them according to the detailed instructions on the packaging.

Why do dracaena leaves turn yellow and fall off?

So why do dracaena leaves turn yellow?

Failure to comply with temperature and humidity standards

Dracaena loves spraying, this helps increase air humidity and protect the plant from drying out the tips of the foliage. This problem occurs especially often in autumn and winter, when the heating is turned on and the air in the apartments becomes quite dry. To solve this problem, you should use a humidifier or spray the dracaena with a spray bottle.

Dracaena has several varieties that are popular, most of them do not tolerate direct sunlight, they can burn the greens. The first sign of too much sun will be the foliage fading and becoming faded and dull. Most often this problem occurs in the summer; it is enough to move the plant into the shade or remove it from direct sunlight.

Important! Dracaena does not tolerate drafts at all; this fact should be taken into account when choosing its place of residence. If the plant decides to drop its leaves, then it means it is beginning to die, urgent measures should be taken

The optimal growing temperature for this palm tree is from 180°C to 250°C. When the air temperature drops below 16 degrees, the plant may become ill, its condition will worsen, as will its appearance, the foliage may droop. Cold drafts are especially dangerous in winter.

Insufficient plant nutrition

If the dracaena does not have enough nutrients, even green leaves may fall off. For feeding, special fertilizers for palm trees are used. You should carefully read the instructions for use that come with the product.

Spots on dragon tree leaves

The soil must be nutritious and have good water and air permeability. Oversaturation of the soil with fluoride will cause the ends of the dracaena leaves to turn yellow. Then the treatment can be long-term.

Dracaena is dying: how to save it from the disease

Why do dracaena leaves turn yellow - reasons

If all maintenance conditions are observed, the development of diseases and leaf fall can be avoided. The plant will have strong immunity and will be able to overcome the disease. In addition, it is recommended to periodically add fertilizers that contain phosphorus and potassium to the soil.

However, it is not always possible to protect the flower from infection. Signs of the disease most often appear on the foliage. First of all, the color of the leaf blade changes, turgor is lost, spots appear, the tips dry out, and then their base.

Dracaena has many diseases

Diseases that most often affect dracaena:

  • heterosporosis. The foliage on both sides begins to turn yellow, then becomes spotted and dries. Without treatment, the flower dies. To help the plant, you need to react in time. Fungicides that contain copper can help;
  • phyllosticosis. Brown spots of irregular shape with a green or yellow border appear on the foliage of the lower tier. They are quite large in size. Leaves may fall;
  • bacteriosis The foliage at the tips rots, so the plant sheds it en masse. Cankers may be seen on the stem. High humidity and high room temperature are the main factors in the development of the disease. Treatment is useless, so the flower will have to be destroyed to save the rest of the plants in the house;
  • Alternaria blight. A fungal disease, the signs of which are brown spots. Over time, without treatment, they begin to turn black. Three times a month should be sprayed with fungicides. This will help fight and prevent the disease.

Why does dracaena shed its leaves en masse when it gets sick? This is a natural response to pathogens. This is how the plant tries to protect other organs.

For your information! Fungicidal preparations such as quadris, topaz, and maxim will help combat diseases.

Fungal and bacterial diseases

Improper care, which leads to a weakening of the defenses, is the most common cause of damage to dracaena by fungal and bacterial diseases.

Alternaria or concentric spot

Signs of Alternaria blight are dry, round spots on the leaves and other parts of the plant. Their shade is most often light brown, and in the center you can see a white dot and concentric circles. Upon closer examination of the foci of the disease, dark or light inclusions of fungal spores are visible, which, as Alternaria spreads, provoke blackening of dry spots.

Treatment of Alternaria involves the use of fungicides. Not only “Fundazol” is suitable (dosage – 10 g per 0.5 liter of water), but also “Topaz”, “Oxychom”. You need to spray the bush at least 3 times, observing a 10-day interval.

Phyllosticosis or brown spot

To treat dracaena, three treatments with any available fungicide are used with an interval of 10 days. It is recommended to alternate medications to prevent the fungus from becoming accustomed to them.

Heterosporosis

The disease affects both sides of the leaf blade, in the initial stages causing the appearance of oblong yellowish spots. As heterosporosis spreads, the spots darken and acquire a brown tint, and a dark red border becomes pronounced. At an advanced stage of the disease, there is an increase in foci and the appearance of fungal spores.

The danger of heterosporosis is its rapid spread and damage to the entire plant, which dies if left untreated. The apical shoot is the first to suffer, and then the remaining parts of the dracaena, which turn yellow and dry out. At risk are specimens that grow in rooms with dry air and insufficient moisture.

Effective means of combating heterospora are fungicides “Topaz”, “Strobi”, “Maxim”, “Skor”, “Quadris”, “Falcon”. You can also treat the bush with a solution of Bordeaux mixture according to the instructions. It is advisable to carry out 3-4 sprayings to completely destroy the fungus.

Bacteriosis

Bacteriosis is a dangerous bacterial disease that cannot be treated. Most often, it affects dracaenas planted in a substrate with a high alkali content, as well as specimens suffering from a lack of fresh air and poor ventilation in the room, heat, soil depletion, constant dampness and systematic waterlogging of the soil. As a result, the bushes' immunity weakens and they become more susceptible to bacterial attacks.

Bacteriosis can be recognized by several signs:

  • Wateriness at the tips of leaf blades and their darkening;
  • Rotting lesions on leaves that feel damp when touched. After the stains dry, a characteristic film remains;
  • Small round ulcers that form not only on the leaf mass, but also on the stem;
  • The appearance of characteristic yellow stripes that separate the diseased and healthy parts of the leaf blade.

It is noteworthy that bacteriosis of dracaena can spread to neighboring plants, especially those that are in close contact. The risk of infection increases significantly in the case of spraying, when water gets on parts of the diseased and healthy flowers.

If dracaena gets sick with bacteriosis, throw it away without regret. Any delay risks infecting the entire collection, which will soon die. Be sure to disinfect the pot with boiling water or a solution of potassium permanganate before planting another indoor flower in it.

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