Perennial primrose: planting, care, breeding and description with photos

• March 25, 2019
• Flowers
• Natalia Egorenkova

Summer residents come to their gardens in April and see primrose, which has hospitably opened its doors to spring with its charming key flowers. Due to its early flowering, this plant is called a primrose; its decorative value is highly valued and entire collections are bred, striking in the variety of inflorescences. There is nothing complicated in planting and caring for perennial primrose, and if you follow the basic rules of agricultural technology, the blooming beauty will greet you at your dacha every spring.

What kind of flower is primrose?

Don’t be surprised that every garden has primroses, even the simplest ones. This is exclusively our plant, which grows in temperate latitudes of the Northern Hemisphere, and is extremely rare in other climatic zones.

Primrose belongs to the Primula or Primrose family. Its closest relatives are the common loosestrife and the common loosestrife, the European seven-footed grass and the seaside milkweed. All these flowering herbs often decorate our flower beds, but few people know their biological names.

The genus Primrose includes about 400 species of mostly perennial herbs, known since ancient times, extremely popular and widely cultivated in many European countries.

The name of the plant comes from the Latin word primus, which means “first”, because the primrose blooms very early, when in some places there is still snow.

A novice gardener should definitely take up perennial primrose. Planting and care will not burden you, it blooms for a long time, and dense rosettes of decorative leaves will decorate the flower beds until frost.

Garden primroses: planting and care in open ground

Almost all primroses love partial shade and coolness, with the exception of some southern species and varieties. In such conditions, flowers open from all their best sides - the size of leaves, buds, rich and bright color of flowers. Moreover, the plant can develop well even on poor soils, but not waterlogged ones.

Some primroses begin to actively grow from the second year after planting. It is advisable to plant them, otherwise the roots of young bushes will end up on the surface of the ground and the young plants will die. If it is not possible to divide the primroses before the onset of cold weather, they can be covered with earth or mulched with humus until spring.

How to plant primroses

Before planting, you should enrich the soil, add rotted manure and a little wood ash. You can improve the structure of the soil by adding a small amount of sand or vermiculite. Tall primrose bushes are planted at a distance of 40–50 cm from each other, and low-growing ones at 10–20 cm. This is a standard, recommended scheme, but if desired, you can plant the flower a little thicker.

Important! Primroses are planted in cloudy weather or in the evening. There is no need to overwater the bushes; moderate watering is sufficient.

When planting, it is extremely important not to deepen the growing point, otherwise the plant will get sick and die.

Diseases and pests, as well as tips on how to preserve primrose in pots until spring

In general, the flower is endowed with strong immunity to various diseases and pests. However, there are still some risks:

• extremely rarely, primrose can be affected by diseases such as jaundice, rust, powdery mildew, bacterial spot, cucumber mosaic virus, as well as stem and root collar rot and anthracnose;
• When plantings are thickened, fleas, aphids, weevils, spider mites, slugs and nematodes may become interested in primroses.

From time to time you need to inspect the bushes. When the first symptoms of diseases or pests are detected, treatment is started immediately. Particular attention should be paid to purchased primroses in pots, which are driven out for the holidays. Here is a useful video about preventing the appearance of root rot from the charming Natalia, who leads the Garden World project:

While purchased primroses are waiting to be planted in the garden, remove yellowing leaves in a timely manner, water the plants not from above, but into a tray, and drain excess water. When loosening the soil, do not fill the growing point (when planting in the ground, also watch for the deepening of the growing point).

It is also useful to “salt” the soil surface with ash and carry out every 3rd watering using a solution of Fitosporin-M (it is the cheapest of natural preparations). There is also Anti-Rot powder from the same Bashkir company, created for processing vegetables in storage. Well, the most powerful biofungicide from this line is Reanimator-M, intended for the treatment of already affected plants. All of these preparations are based on living spores and cells of beneficial soil microbes Bacillus subtilus.

It is also useful to put 2 tablets of Glyocladin into the root, or water it weekly with a solution of Trichoderma verde - these are useful soil fungi that enhance the immunity of plants.

Remember that if a weakened plant is planted in the garden, pests will attack it and completely eat it. We have repeatedly seen how slugs eat purchased primroses, although already adapted specimens grow quietly nearby. So, we don’t just need to keep the primrose in pots until spring, but strengthen its immunity. Lately, we have been saving all purchased seedlings this way; we even try to immediately replant indoor roses and disinfect the soil.

How to care for primroses

Growing a plant is a pleasure - all that primrose needs is removing weeds, loosening the soil, watering and light fertilizing. This is, of course, if a mulch layer is not used. In mulch, a soil crust does not form and loosening is not necessary.

To extend the flowering period of the bushes, all faded inflorescences should be removed.

During hot periods, watering is carried out frequently. The first feeding is carried out when the inflorescences begin to grow; if this is done earlier, all the nutrition will go into the leaves. The second time the primrose is fertilized after flowering. Organic or organomineral complexes are suitable. Once every 4 or 5 years, mandatory planting (division) of bushes is carried out.

Important! Only young bushes and heat-loving species and varieties of primroses need shelter for the winter. Old foliage, like that of garden strawberries, is cut from the bushes only in the spring.

What does primrose look like?

Any primrose is a low and compact plant. Together with the peduncle, its height is only 25 - 50 cm.

Despite its modest size, primrose has a highly developed fibrous root system, so the plant takes root well, and damaged ones are quickly restored.

Primrose leaves form a dense rosette. They are oval or lanceolate in shape, light green in color, sometimes with a grayish tint. The surface of the leaf is usually wrinkled, as if corrugated, strewn with barely noticeable fibers; the edges can be smooth or cut with small teeth.

The stem of the primrose, also known as the peduncle, is always bare, in many species it is long, sometimes erect or directed to the side. If proper attention was paid to planting and care when growing perennial primrose, the plant will delight you with many flower shoots.

Agrotechnics of cultivation

Growing a perennial variety planted in a suitable area does not require much time and effort. The main activities are watering, fertilizing, trimming faded flower stalks and preparing for winter.

Watering

The natural habitat of this crop is characterized by high humidity, so it is important that when flower stalks appear and develop, the soil does not dry out for a long time. Normal care consists of watering once a week in the absence of natural rainfall. In this case, stagnation of water must be avoided.

Strict watering rules are observed only in spring, and for summer-flowering species - also in summer. Ephemeral varieties that lose ground organs after flowering completes do not need watering after wilting.

Mulching

To make growing easier and reduce the time required to care for this crop, it is recommended to use mulching. A layer of mulch allows you to retain moisture longer after watering, especially while the flowers have not grown and the foliage has not closed. Dry peat or dried humus is ideal for mulching. This measure will help make the watering regime less intense and introduce organic nutrients into the soil.

Primrose Julia "Lady Green" in a flowerbed

Feeding

Vigorous flowering depletes the soil, so periodic application of fertilizers is necessary to preserve the decorative properties of perennial primrose. In April, you need to add a phosphorus-potassium complex, which will promote the formation of large, numerous buds and the brightness of the petals. Fertilizers must be applied on damp soil.

Next, fertilizers are applied at intervals of 2-3 weeks. The last fertilizing occurs in the first half of August, after which fertilizers are stopped until the next season.

Trimming

There are two types of pruning for primrose. The first is to remove and pluck the faded flowers. If they are not removed, the period of bud formation will be short-lived, and in addition, the decorative effect of the flowerbed will sharply decrease.

The second type of pruning involves removing shrunken or damaged leaves. This must be done to prevent dry parts from becoming a hotbed of fungal diseases. Before the onset of cold weather, the root rosette is not removed, as it serves as insulation for the roots during frosts. You can trim off old foliage only next spring.

Transfer

Over time, the bushes grow too much, and crowding worsens the intensity of flowering. To avoid this, when cultivating at home, the bushes need to be replanted every 3-4 years, reducing their density. During transplantation, you need to divide the bush into 2-3 parts.

Rich palette of primroses

Primrose flowers consist of five petals, collected in inflorescences of various shapes: a brush, an umbrella and even a ball. One of the features of the plant is a very long flower tube formed by petals fused at the base. Therefore, do not be surprised if you rarely see bees and bumblebees on key flowers. It can be difficult for honey insects to get to the nectar.

The primrose fruit is an elongated seed capsule. However, most gardeners cut off the faded stems without waiting for the seeds to ripen, and prefer to propagate the primrose by dividing the bush.

Today, based on species diversity, many varieties of primroses with double and simple flowers, single and collected in fancy inflorescences, have been bred. Gardeners are more familiar with lilac and yellow flowers, but there are red, pink, burgundy, purple, black and snow-white primroses.

Do you know why experienced gardeners recommend growing perennial primrose? Even a novice gardener can easily cope with planting and caring in open ground.

The most popular types and varieties with photos

There are a large number of varieties. The most popular among them are:

Primrose Spring

It begins to bloom in April and ends flowering at the end of May. The petals are most often yellow, but there are also two-colored ones.

Primula stemless

The same applies to early varieties. The leaves are small and oval in shape. The flowers are large, with wide-open heart-shaped petals. The most popular variety is Potsdam Giants.

Large Checkers

An early species, blooms until the end of May or beginning of June. Height - 35 cm. Actively used in medicine.

Serrated

Tall variety (up to 50 cm) with large oblong, finely toothed, wrinkled leaves. The flowers are small, collected in dense spherical inflorescences.

Siberian

Blooms in mid-May. Height - 30 cm. The stem is thin, covered with fibers. The leaves are basal, pubescent, the petals have an elongated heart-shaped shape.

Terry

This species blooms from early spring to mid-summer. It also tends to re-bloom in September and October. It is distinguished by wavy petals and large leaves.

Rosanna Apricotova

Low-growing variety (15 cm). The flowers resemble small rosebuds. Blooms in April - May.

High Colossea

Despite the name, its height does not exceed 25 cm. It blooms with large flowers of various colors, including two-color ones.

Japanese

Characterized by a developed basal rosette. The species has a tall thick stem, bright leaves with jagged ends and flowers with a dark core. Plant height is about 20 cm.

Carnival

Hybrid with unusual coloring. Begins to bloom in mid-spring. Distinctive features are a two-color core and a height of about 20 cm.

Big Ben

It begins to bloom in mid-spring and ends in July. The plant has large flowers, mostly pink, a tall stem and oblong glossy leaves. Height about 35 cm.

Softish

At home, it begins to bloom in late autumn and ends in mid-spring. It is distinguished by the edging along the edges of the petals on large flowers with a diameter of 8 cm. The height of the plant is 45 cm.

Selecta (Giant)

Blooms from April to July. Plant height is 30 cm. The flowers are large with large petals of various colors.

Elatior (Primula Tall)

Blooms from April to June. Height - 40 cm. The flowers are predominantly yellow, oblong, with sharp petals.

Blue Jeans

This species grows well not only in the shade, but also in sunny areas. It begins to bloom in early spring and continues to please the eye until June. The height of the bush is 25 cm. The flowers are large with blue petals with blue veins. The core is large, bright yellow.

Obkonika

Height - 30–50 cm. Flowers are large (8 cm). The stem is long, the leaves are large and velvety.

Polyanthus

Belongs to large species. The height of the bush can reach 60 cm. The flowers are 8 cm. The round petals, tightly adjacent to each other, have a white edge. The leaves are oval, pointed at the ends.

Florinda

The largest variety. There are specimens reaching 80 cm. On a high peduncle there are many bell-shaped flowers. The stem is thick and straight. The leaves are large and wrinkled.

How to grow primrose from seeds?

It’s good when neighbors plant their plants and carry ready-made bushes with gorgeous roots to each other on a shovel. But if there is nothing to plant yet, they can give you dry seed pods. And sometimes you come across seeds of very beautiful primroses in the store, and the question arises: when is the best time to plant them?

There are 2 ways to sow primrose seeds: in open ground before winter and in spring in a nursery. Planting material in factory packages will last until spring, but it is better to plant your own seeds in the fall, because they are poorly stored and quickly lose their viability.

How to store primrose seeds

All my primrose seeds are fresh, collected last season. And if you are going to sow them in the spring of the current season, then you can store them at room temperature in a closed container. If you are going to store the seeds longer, then the best option is a refrigerator or even a freezer. Most often, gardeners store primrose seeds on the refrigerator door, packaged in regular bags with a clip-fastener or in a jar with a tightly closed lid. I just want to add that I have experience storing primrose auricula seeds at room temperature for 4 years, and they retained almost 100% germination. The photo shows the same seeds sown on a cotton pad for the experiment.

Sowing before winter

It is important that the seeds do not germinate, so the optimal time for winter sowing is cold weather before the onset of stable frosts: October and early November. There is no point in looking for a place in flower beds; no one guarantees 100% germination, and young plants will have to be replanted in any case.

For the “kindergarten” they choose a place in the garden bed where nothing is planned to be planted in early spring. The main thing is that the soil is loose and fertile, on which a soil crust does not form.

The grooves are made in advance; the bottom can be sprinkled with a thin layer of sand so that in the spring the melting snow does not wash the seeds into the lower layers of the soil. They sow often and shallowly, 1 - 1.5 cm, because there is no guarantee of 100% germination, and in nature primrose seeds are carried by the wind and no one sprinkles them. There is also no need to make shelters; garden primrose is one of the most frost-resistant crops, so the seeds overwinter well and quickly begin to grow in the spring.

However, in regions where temperatures often drop below -20 °C, it makes sense to postpone sowing seeds until spring.

Soil for growing primrose seedlings

For growing seedlings, ordinary store-bought soil is suitable, but preferably from well-known manufacturing companies that are conscientious about the composition and quality of soil mixtures. Of course, you can use your own homemade soil mixture, but it must be disinfected and have a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Ready-made soils contain a lot of nutrients, which can be detrimental to them at the initial stage of seedling development.

For successful seed germination, you need loose, granular soil, which for a long time retains the air needed by the thin, delicate roots of the seedlings. In soil rich in organic matter, without loosening substrates, after several waterings the air will be displaced and the roots of the seedlings will begin to rot. Therefore, before sowing primroses, it is advisable to add agroperlite and vermiculite to the prepared soil to improve the quality characteristics of the soil mixture. Good seed germination and active development of seedlings depend on this.

Perlite is a rock of volcanic origin. It loosens the soil well and helps moisture to be distributed evenly. Flower shops sell agroperlite. But if you buy perlite outside the flower environment, it is better to clarify that it is agroperlite that you need. Otherwise, you may end up with construction or filter perlite.

By using perlite in the earthen mixture, a water-air balance is established, caking and compaction of the earthen coma is prevented. Also, the addition of perlite provides the necessary drainage, seedlings develop better, their root system does not suffer from “suffocation” and is perfectly aerated.

Vermiculite is also often used in the preparation of earthen mixtures. With the addition of vermiculite, a crust does not form on the surface of the earth mixture and the soil does not cake. In addition, vermiculite protects the root system from temperature changes, and this is very important in winter when crops are on windowsills. Also, using vermiculite, you can reduce the acidity of the earth mixture, which stops the process of soil salinization due to frequent watering. Vermiculite perfectly absorbs, retains moisture and gradually releases it to plants. Therefore, if we add it to the soil, we can water the seedlings less often. Vermiculite usually comes in different fractions and shades on sale. Any type is suitable for sowing primrose seeds.

For sowing seeds, perlite and vermiculite are used together in equal proportions. When used together, their shortcomings are compensated. A mixture of perlite and vermiculite is added to the soil from 20 to 50%, depending on the size of the seeds: the smaller they are, the higher the percentage of baking powder. Some gardeners, instead of perlite and vermiculite, add chopped sphagnum moss or coarse river sand (well washed and disinfected) to the soil. I prefer perlite and vermiculite. These modern and popular soil improvers are affordable, easy to use and do not require additional disinfection. Sometimes gardeners sow primrose seeds in gel or peat tablets. I tried these methods of growing seedlings, but came to the conclusion that they are less convenient and have their own disadvantages. However, I will not argue with those who grow primroses in peat tablets, gels, cotton pads, sponges for washing dishes, etc., because everyone decides for themselves what is more convenient for them.

So, fill the sowing container with soil:

If the seeds are very small, like Siebold’s primrose or auricula primrose, additionally sprinkle the surface with vermiculite: a layer of no more than 0.5 cm.

If there is no perlite and vermiculite, the surface of the soil mixture can be sprinkled with a thin layer of river sand (clean and disinfected).

Sowing seedlings

Until March, your planting material is stored in the same way as marigold, calendula or petunia seeds: well dried, in an airtight container.

Please note: even seed manufacturers recommend mandatory stratification when sowing perennial primrose, i.e., creating conditions as close as possible to wintering in open ground. To do this, the seeds are sown in a seedling box filled with well-moistened fertile soil and lightly sprinkled. Cover the container with glass or a bag and place it on a shelf in the refrigerator. At a temperature of + 5 ... + 7 ° C, 7 - 10 days are enough, after which the box can be moved to the windowsill and the glass removed. Such manipulations significantly improve seed germination.

At a temperature of + 18 ... + 20 ° C and constantly moist soil, primrose sprouts appear on days 10 - 14. Primrose does not like direct sunlight, so in clear weather the box is removed from the windowsill or shaded. When the first true leaf is fully formed, the seedlings are planted in pots or cups with a capacity of 200 ml or several pieces in larger containers.

Young, poorly rooted plants may not tolerate sub-zero temperatures. Therefore, it is better to postpone planting perennial primrose until there is a risk of return frosts, and in the meantime think about where the primrose will look especially impressive.

Home care

Caucasian rhododendron in the mountains: when to bloom

How long an indoor primrose blooms depends on how it was cared for. The light-loving plant loves cool weather and does not tolerate direct sunlight. Active care for primroses begins after a period of dormancy; during flowering, it is enough to monitor the air temperature and water on time.

Multicolored in pots

Humidity

Primroses are unpretentious to air humidity. In the wild, primrose is one of the first to grow, grows during the thaw and is constantly in a humid environment. In dry weather, the leaves of the flower may dry out; it needs to be sprayed every day.

In summer, you can place a jar or any container with water next to the flower. Evaporation will maintain the necessary air humidity. Another option is to place the pot of primrose on top of damp pebbles or expanded clay. The drainage needs to be poured into a tray and moistened, and a pot placed on top. You can also place the flower on a damp cloth.

Drainage layer

Note! If damp drainage is poured into the tray, you must ensure that the pot does not touch the water.

Watering

Primrose requires regular watering. The soil in which the flower grows should always be moderately moist. Liquid stagnation should not be allowed, otherwise the root system will begin to rot. Before use, tap water should sit in open bottles for 2-3 days. Bad or contaminated water can ruin the plant.

Watering in spring, summer and autumn-winter differs:

• In spring, there is no exact schedule for watering primroses; it is better to focus on the soil moisture. If the top layer is completely dry, the flower requires watering. There is no need to moisten the soil every day; it is enough to water the flower with a small amount of water every other day;
• In dry weather in summer, the plant requires more water; it is watered every other day or every day. Once a month, the flower can be given a light shower. The procedure will not only moisten the soil, but also wash away excess dust;
• In the autumn-winter period, primrose is prepared for the dormant period and the next flowering. Watering is reduced to 2-3 times a week.

Fertilizers

Not everyone knows when to apply fertilizer and what is the best way to feed primrose in the spring for lush flowering. During the dormant period, when the plant does not bloom, there is no need to fertilize the soil.

Primrose requires a small amount of fertilizer during flowering. Feeding rules:

• The flower is fed with complex fertilizer for flowering plants;
• The fertilizer must contain phosphorus, zinc and potassium;
• It is better to avoid fertilizers with a large amount of nitrogen;
• The amount of fertilizer indicated on the package is reduced by 2 times;
• During the flowering period, fertilizing is carried out every 2 weeks until the end of the season.

Note! There is no need to feed the primrose before the buds form, otherwise only the leaves will begin to grow.

Temperature

Primroses are not afraid of cold weather and low temperatures; in such conditions they grow well. Indoor primrose does not take root in hot and dry rooms. The ideal air temperature should be between 14-18°C, and the plant also feels good at 11-13°C.

In summer, the flower normally tolerates temperatures up to 20°C, but it needs to be moistened regularly. At the end of summer, the primrose must be moved to a cool room, the temperature in which is no more than 16-18 ° C, otherwise it may not bloom.

Note! In winter, primroses should not be placed on the windowsill if the radiator underneath is too hot. From excess heat, the flower will begin to wither and may die.

Best place to land

It’s not for nothing that summer residents love primrose, and experienced gardeners recommend it as a universal crop that has a place in the implementation of any landscape design options. It may bloom for only 30-40 days, but when planted correctly it brings incredible aesthetic pleasure, and its corrugated leaves turn cheerfully green until the first snow.

Primrose grows best in partial shade. It is also planted in open areas, but does not bloom so brightly. Let's look at the most interesting ideas for planting primrose:

• design of the banks of ponds and artificial reservoirs;
• northeastern slopes of alpine hills;
• border planting along garden paths;
• tiered flower beds and mixborders;
• flower beds with other low-growing flowers (daisies, snapdragons, lobelia, ageratum, etc.);
• growing in pots to decorate balconies, verandas, terraces and gazebos;
• as a houseplant for year-round cultivation (special varieties).

It is noteworthy that the primrose not only perfectly coexists with any compact flowers, but also protects them from weeds. Anyone who has planted primrose knows: next to it there are practically no even the ubiquitous dandelions and primrose. However, she may overdo it and begin to crowd out her long-term neighbors from the flowerbed. Therefore, it doesn’t hurt to know the specifics of planting and caring for perennial primrose.

Sowing seeds

We pour the soil mixture in the containers well with water so that excess moisture flows out of the drainage holes. In order not to wash out the layer, you can spill the substrate from a sprinkler, carefully wetting the vermiculite until the substrate in the container is completely moistened. After this, we take out the primrose seeds and pour them onto a regular napkin. If there are a lot of seeds, then sow on the surface of the soil directly from a napkin folded in half. If there are few seeds, then you can use a regular toothpick, first moistening its tip, which is convenient for catching seeds from a napkin. We spread the seeds over the surface, lightly pressing them into the substrate.

The sown seeds are moistened with a sprinkler. It is advisable to add a solution of Maxim or Vitaros fungicide to the sprayer container. Even if your soil mixture is disinfected, there may be mold spores on the surface of the seeds. Using a solution of these fungicides, you can avoid the appearance of mold on the soil surface at the beginning of germination. Treated crops are covered with a transparent lid or film.

Primrose crops are kept at a temperature of 12-18°C. This is an average ideal temperature and may vary depending on the type of primrose you are growing from seed. At higher constant temperatures (above 25°C), most primrose seeds will germinate more slowly and may even die. As one of my friends said: “Primroses are not heat-loving tomatoes.” Therefore, the advice: placing jars with primrose seedings on radiators or keeping them at temperatures above 22-25°C are useless and in some cases even harmful.

At lower temperatures (below 10°C), seed germination is inhibited. Day/night temperature fluctuations only have a positive effect on seed germination, because bring them as close as possible to the natural conditions of germination in nature. But, unfortunately, it is difficult to create such a temperature environment in room conditions. Do not rush to place containers with crops in the refrigerator or under the snow. Seeds of hybrid primroses do not need cold stratification, as amateurs often mistakenly believe. Only certain types of wild primroses require germination with stage-by-stage cold stratification. But, as a rule, amateurs rarely grow such primroses from seeds, mainly only experienced collectors and breeders. Cold stratification does not have a positive effect on the germination of hybrid primrose seeds. If primrose seeds are initially of poor quality, then nothing will help them.

Determining on your own which seeds of wild primroses germinate only with stratification is quite simple: if after 30-40 days fresh and high-quality primrose seeds have not sprouted at a temperature of 12-18°C, then the crops are placed in a refrigerator at a temperature of 0-5°C (or buried in snow) for a month or two for cold stratification. And only then they germinate again at a temperature of 12-18°C.

I do not recommend pre-sowing seed treatment with any stimulants or fertilizers. Unfortunately, such biostimulants do not always have a positive effect on seed germination. More often the opposite happens: after treatment, the seeds germinate worse. You need to know the exact proportions of solutions and the degree of influence of the biostimulator on a particular type of seed. Sometimes it happens that all of the above conditions are strictly met, but fresh primrose seeds do not germinate at all or only a small part of them germinate. From personal experience I will say that the seeds of individual primroses usually behave this way, which, due to some of their individual characteristics, have a very low percentage of seed germination. And there’s nothing you can do about it: you have to put up with it.

I will only add that sometimes the seeds of such primroses germinate within a year or even after 2-3 years. I assume that some capricious primroses inherited this feature from their distant wild ancestors. As you know, the seeds of many wild primroses have such an amazing ability: their seeds do not germinate all at once, but germinate in stages: only some of the seeds germinate annually, the rest simply wait their turn and germinate in separate groups over several years. This distinctive characteristic of wild plants allows them to survive difficult climatic periods; and if in some year the plants died from drought, severe frosts, heavy rainfall, etc. force majeure circumstances, then the seeds preserved in the soil will certainly germinate in a few years.

How to plant correctly?

Primrose can grow on heavy, moderately acidic soils, but it will not please you with its high decorative value. The soil should be loose and fertile, but do not overuse organic matter, otherwise the primrose will grow greatly to the detriment of flowering. Before planting, it is enough to add 2 buckets of compost per 1 m2 of land and dig it well.

If the primrose is planted separately, at least 30 cm is left from the bush to the neighboring plants. When planting in rows, there should be 20 cm of space between the seedlings; this is enough to form strong rosettes and close the plants together.

The primrose takes root well, sometimes sheds its lower leaves, but quickly makes up for what it has lost.

The soil

In order to create a good aerated environment for primrose, 3 buckets of sand, 40 g of superphosphate, 0.5 buckets of humus (per 1 sq.m.) should be added soil with a heavy clay composition Sandy soil quickly loses moisture, overheats greatly in summer, and freezes in winter, so before planting, you need to add 2-3 buckets of humus, 20-30 g of phosphorus and potassium, and a little clay per 1 sq.m. For some types of primrose, the soil must be limed; for example, alpine species prefer slightly alkaline soils .

Garden primrose will bloom well only on light soils

Basic agrotechnical measures

When growing perennial primrose, its decorativeness and flowering largely depend on planting and care, although some species do not throw out flower stalks at all in the first year.

In order for primrose to thrive in your garden, you should remember and adhere to the basic rules of agricultural technology:

• if there is not enough natural moisture, water during drought, preventing the soil from drying out;
• lower yellowed and dry leaves are promptly removed;
• in plants older than 2 years, the root collar is often exposed, so you need to add soil as necessary;
• In the first year, many gardeners do not feed their primroses at all. Starting from the 2nd year, it is recommended to feed 2 times: before flowering directly in the snow and in the fall; In the spring, dry superphosphate granules are used, at the end of the season - an ash solution;
• There is no need to cover the primrose for the winter.

Agree, growing primroses will not take much time. Planting and care in open ground are simple and easy, but you should not allow the bushes to grow too much, otherwise the plant will begin to degenerate and stop blooming.

Landing algorithm

It is recommended to plant primrose in open ground at the first thaw in spring or early autumn, but only in the second year of the plant’s life. If you decide to plant primrose in the spring, then in this case it is recommended to carry out the procedure in the last days of May.

Planting in beds and flower beds can also be done in the summer, from mid-July to August. At this time, the primrose seedlings are transplanted to a permanent place. There should be a distance of 20-25 cm between plants. If before this the garden primrose grew in an apartment (for example, it was given as a gift in a pot), then in this case it can be transferred to the garden in March.

How well the plant takes root directly depends on the length of the roots. It is best to replant young plants. If you are transplanting from a pot into open ground, then at first you need to keep the young seedling in partial shade. Once it takes root and begins to develop, you can move it to a sunnier place.

If we are talking about seedlings prepared from seeds, then it is necessary to perform picking several times in a timely manner:

• The first picking is usually carried out 3 weeks after sowing. At this stage, it is necessary to pick young plants into a box, which is first filled with fresh soil.

• The second pick is performed a month later. The plants must be transferred again to fresh soil. In this case, in the new box the distance between plants should be about 45 cm.
• The third picking is performed when the young shoots begin to touch the leaves. This time, planting is done in pots with a diameter of 8 cm. As a rule, this procedure is performed approximately 6 weeks after sowing.

During the first week after the third transplant, the primrose must be watered three times a day, and the windows must be kept closed. After the plants have taken root a little and begin to grow intensively, you can gradually open the windows and ventilate them (first for 10-15 minutes, and then for several hours, 2-3 times a day).

Watering at this time is done when the soil in the pots begins to dry out. If you water young primroses too much, the roots will quickly begin to rot and the leaves will turn yellow.

In mid-July, the primrose should be transplanted for the last time into pots, the diameter of which should be up to 12 cm. At this stage, it is recommended to remove weaker plants. No more than 2 seedlings can be planted in one pot. It is recommended to prepare the soil by adding a small amount of compost. Also, the optimal soil acidity should be pH 5.6-6.

If the soil is neutral or alkaline, then the primrose leaves may also turn yellow and their edges will begin to dry out. This is explained by the fact that organic compounds are still distributed incorrectly in young plants.

Towards the end of September, the primrose can be transferred to a greenhouse in which the temperature is maintained within 10-12°C.

By October, nine-month-old seedlings should be well formed. Then the first inflorescences appear. It is at this stage that primrose seedlings are usually transferred to nurseries or planted in open ground if the seedlings were purchased or grown independently. Fully formed seedlings must be planted at a distance of 0.2-0.3 m.

How to plant primrose correctly?

Usually 3-4 year old primroses are planted and this is done after flowering. You can try to divide the dug up bush with your hands: if the ground is well moistened, the plant easily breaks up into separate rosettes. If this does not work, the bush is cut into several parts with a sharp knife, after which it is transplanted to new places or given to neighbors.

By the way, you can dig up and divide perennial primrose during flowering, when there is interest, for example, to sell beautifully flowering varieties and species.

As practice shows, when growing perennial primrose, planting and care does not cause gardeners any trouble and plants rarely get sick. However, it doesn’t hurt to know about the misfortunes that affect primroses, especially when growing rare varieties.

How to propagate garden primrose

There are 2 methods - vegetative and generative. Dividing the bush is carried out before or after flowering, in spring or autumn. Some primroses can begin to be divided from the age of 3, while others only from the age of five. To avoid confusion, it is better to consult with flower growers.

Details about the methods of propagation of primroses:

• division - the plant is carefully dug up and the roots are washed with water without damaging them. Now the bush needs to be cut so that each section contains a restoration bud, developed roots and a rosette of leaves. The cut sites are immediately treated with wood ash, and the primroses are immediately planted in a new place. For 2 weeks after planting, seedlings are watered daily. If division is carried out in the fall, the plantings are covered with foliage or spruce branches for the winter;
• cuttings - the largest, most developed primrose bushes are selected for the procedure. In spring or summer after flowering, the plant is dug up and some of the thickest roots are cut off. To make buds form faster, longitudinal cuts are carefully made on the upper side of the cuttings. Now the root sections are placed in holes no deeper than 4 cm and sprinkled with earth. Care for seedlings in the usual way;
• rooting - this method is suitable if the primroses have not yet reached the age suitable for division. The procedure is carried out in autumn or summer. From the very base of the root, the leaf petiole is separated along with the bud (the leaf blade is cut by a third) and placed in a mixture of sand and garden soil. The pot with the seedling is placed on a bright windowsill. It is important that the sheet is not exposed to direct sunlight. The soil is periodically moistened, and the room temperature is maintained at 16–18 °C. The bush will be ready for transplanting as soon as the young shoots hatch;
• seeds - many, but not all varieties and hybrids can be propagated in this way. For example, it will not be possible to grow a beautiful specimen from collected terry primrose seeds. The grains are practically not stored; they need to be sown within 1 or 2 years, and freshly harvested seed has the best germination rate. Sowing is most often done in the fall, then the plants will bloom the next year.

Important! Primrose can be grown in seedlings, but it is worth remembering that seeds of almost all types require stratification. Exceptions are common and fine-toothed primroses. Seedlings develop slowly.

Forcing primroses

Most types of garden primrose, especially low-growing ones, are suitable for spring flower forcing. Plants must be two years old. Bushes of older primroses need to be divided before the procedure.

In late autumn, the plants are dug up, transferred together with a lump of earth into a common box and placed in a room with a temperature of at least 1–3 °C. In early February, old leaves and stems are cut off from primroses, and the bushes are planted in small pots (10–12 cm in diameter). Any land can be used. There is no need to deepen the plants; the rosette of leaves is placed at the level of the soil surface.

Now the primroses need to be moved to a bright windowsill, the temperature is increased to 10 °C. Water the plants as needed, sparingly. Feed the bushes when the buds form. You can use complex fertilizer (1% aqueous solution). After flowering, primroses are planted back into the garden.

Diseases and pests

It’s a pity to lose flowers, and it doesn’t matter whether they are varietal primroses or the most common types. Among the lesser evils, it is worth noting common pests: snails and aphids, which appear in damp weather on heavily thickened plantings. The barrier for the former is the granular drug “Thunderstorm”.

You can clean garden primrose from aphids with a soap solution of any dishwashing detergent, and large colonies of insects can be destroyed with insecticidal preparations, for example, Iskra or Biotlin. At the same time, fight garden ants: if they leave, the aphids will disappear.

Powdery mildew can be a more serious problem. The fungal disease first affects the lower leaves, then the entire plant: first a white coating forms, and a little later drops of liquid appear - a product of the maturation of fungal spores. In the early stages, treatment with Fitosporin and Topaz helps; severely affected bushes are dug up and burned.

We hope that information about perennial primrose: planting and care, photos and recommendations will help you grow beautiful, healthy plants that will delight you with marvelous flowering for many years.

How to save a purchased plant until spring

If you have purchased plants that are already flowering, your main concern will be to preserve them before planting them in the garden. To do this, you need to provide the primrose with cool conditions, for example, right next to the glass on the window or on an insulated loggia, where the temperature does not drop below zero.

It is best, of course, to immediately sacrifice the flowers, but if you really want to admire the flowering, then you can wait for the flowering to fade and only then cut off the flower stalks.

You also need to remove all damaged and yellowed leaves.

Watering is done very moderately, only after the soil has dried. In this case, they adhere to the rule that it is better to underwater than to overwater the plant. If there is excess moisture, the roots of the purchased primrose rot very quickly.

There is no need to replant the purchased plant.

As a last resort, you can wrap the pot of primrose in several layers of newspaper and place it on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. But at the same time, it must be checked regularly and the soil must not be allowed to dry out.

Combination with other plants

By planting primrose on the banks of natural or artificial reservoirs, you can create a full-fledged living composition, combining it with heuchera, sedge, ornamental and cereal grasses, rhododendrons, marsh iris, and ferns. By arranging the plants in tiers, you can admire the ensemble of yellow, red, orange, pink and purple inflorescences.

The plant plays an active role in landscaping and transforming alleys, parks and squares. It is combined with pansies, cyclamens, poinsettias. Primrose is also planted in pots and created as decorations near garden benches on paving stones and asphalt terraces. A chic flower arrangement of yellow daffodils and bright primroses will not leave you indifferent. Like spring itself, these flowers speak of the awakening of nature from winter sleep. Another combination of primroses is: wild violet, daffodils (white or yellow) and primrose (red or purple).

Primrose frames a flower garden, in the center of which muscari, peonies and other perennial plants with dense foliage are planted. This neighborhood is beneficial not only from an aesthetic point of view, but also from an agrotechnical point of view: dense foliage protects the primrose on hot summer days. Muscari are preferably bright blue, and primrose is purple.

The beautiful combination of hyacinths and primrose has already become traditional. Their ensemble of heavenly beauty is appropriate anywhere in the garden. A variety of colors lifts your spirits and charges you with vivacity and positivity. A more complex combination is created from primrose hybrids - flowers with stripes, splashes, and stains. Such varieties add sophistication and aristocracy. They are most often used in landscape style.

Reproduction methods

Primrose owners can easily propagate the plant; this can be done in different ways. Both purple and yellow indoor primrose can be propagated by seeds or by dividing the plant into parts.

Seeds

Growing from seeds is most often used for primroses growing in the garden. At home, it takes enough time for the seed to germinate. You need to plant seeds in June-July, how to do it correctly:

1. First you need to prepare a container for planting; it should be low;
2. The container is filled with soil mixture intended for planting primrose. The layer height should be 2-3 cm;
3. Primrose seeds are small and do not need to be buried deeply. It is enough to lay them on top of the ground and tread them a little;
4. The container is covered with film or plastic and placed in a cool place. The temperature should be between 15-19°C.

Sprouts in the ground

The soil in the pot should always be moist, but not soggy. Every day you need to remove the film to ventilate the soil with the seeds. After 14-20 days, the first shoots will appear.

Note! Over time, primrose seeds lose their viability, so they need to be planted immediately after collection.

By dividing the bush

For indoor plants, vegetative propagation is most often used. The plant along with the root system is cut into several parts. Only adult primroses, at least 3-4 years old, can be divided. How to do it correctly:

1. The plant is carefully pulled out of the pot, excess soil is shaken off;
2. The roots should be washed with cold running water and placed on a dry cloth. Excess water should drain;
3. Using a sharp knife, divide the bush into 2-3 parts. Each piece must have 1 growth point - the upper part of the main shoot;
4. Sections must be immediately treated with charcoal powder.

All cut parts of the bush must be planted in the ground immediately, otherwise they may dry out.

Note! Primrose with double flowers cannot be grown from seeds; it is propagated only vegetatively.

Forcing primrose

Forcing is the process of accelerating plant growth. For those in bloom, it is held between February 14 and March 8, when the demand for flowers increases several times.

Lots of flower pots

Primroses grown from seeds are suitable for forcing; they must be at least 2 years old. If the flower was propagated by division, you need to use plants older than 3 years. The distillation is carried out in several stages:

1. Primroses are planted in open ground at a distance of 15-20 cm between seedlings. The soil should be rich in humus; an area of ​​50 m² is fertilized with 3-4 kg of superphosphate and 1 kg of potassium sulfate. Additionally, you can add 100-150 kg of compost or manure;
2. In April-May, seedlings need to be fed once with liquid fertilizers. A mixture of water and manure in a ratio of 10:1 is suitable;
3. Before frost sets in, street primroses are dug up along with a large piece of earth;
4. The dug up plants are planted in prepared containers or directly into pots in which they will remain. Fill the pots with a mixture of sand and peat or soil mixture for replanting primrose. There is no need to feed the soil, otherwise only leaves will begin to grow;
5. Planted plants are stored in basements at a temperature of 5-9°C. If the frosts are not severe, storage in outdoor covered greenhouses, which are sprinkled with dry leaves for the winter, is allowed;
6. From the end of January to the beginning of February, the plants are transferred to a lighted room; the air temperature should be within 17°C. For a week, the primrose is watered every 2 days with a small amount of water, and the previous watering regime is gradually resumed.

Some varieties bloom in April, while others begin to bloom in February. In the spring, these primroses can be planted on the site; after a few years they can be reused for forcing.

Primroses are flowers that take root equally well in different conditions, including at home. If you properly care for the primrose, it will delight you for a long time with its appearance, bright coloring and pleasant aroma.