Caring for Cattleya ordinary, maxima, large-flowered, miniature and other subspecies is not very difficult, but there are some features that must be taken into account. In particular, the plant requires suitable conditions for temperature, humidity and light. We must not forget about the correct selection of pot and substrate. We will talk about all this below, and also show you how to avoid the most common mistakes in care in order to take care of the health and abundant flowering of your orchid.
This is interesting! Cattleya appeared as a plant for growing at home in the mid-18th century. In Europe, the flower first bloomed in 1818 in the greenhouse of W. Cattleya, who lived in the English town of Barnet and was a professional flower grower. And today graceful cattleyas grow on the windowsills of many people, delighting with their beauty and abundant flowering.
Description of the orchid (flowering characteristics, period, duration)
Interestingly, unlike the others, this orchid has bulbs with several shoots holding 1-2 dense leaves. The processes are formed at the bases of the last axes due to which the cattleya can grow in width.
Inflorescences: terminal or racemose (on the main shoot there are individual flowers on pedicels, approximately equal in length), emerges from the axil of the leaf plate, the integumentary leaves act as a “cover” for it.
During the flowering period, large flowers appear on the plant. Their petals can be thin, elongated, rounded, corrugated, etc. They are painted in various colors: from white and olive to gold and crimson. The flower also has a “lip” of a specific shape and a shade contrasting with the petals.
The culture is adapted to development and growth both at altitudes corresponding to sea level and in the mountains.
As a rule, the study of this species should begin from the stem. In this orchid it is short, thick and fleshy. At the beginning of development, the plant has several growth bases, but over time they die off, and only one growth remains. The pseudobulb develops from one to two fleshy leaves that have an elongated shape. They are compacted and do not bend as the crop grows. According to the number of leaves, cattleyas are:
- Unifoliate
False bulbs are flattened, spindle-shaped, from which one leaf grows.
- Bifolia
Pseudobulbs are long, cylindrical in shape, producing several leaves.
Thanks to its aerial root system, the orchid can live in different conditions. The rhizome is the connecting structure for all pseudobulbs. It provides the crop with nutrition and moisture from the air and soil.
The duration of Cattleya flowering is from ten days to a month, depending on the species. There are varieties that bloom in winter and spring seasons.
An orchid flower consists of 3 petals and 3 sepals. The middle petal has brighter shades and delicate fringe along the edges. It is shaped like a funnel or lip and acts as a platform for insects and hummingbirds, which perform the function of pollinating flowers.
The diameter of the corolla is from 2-4 millimeters to 25 centimeters. The color can be pink, lilac, crimson or white. On plants with more than 4 pseudobulbs, the flowers begin to bloom alternately. So a flower can live for more than 20 days.
The thick aroma of the Cattleya flower is reminiscent of the smell of lily of the valley or lily. A cut orchid can remain without water for a long time and not wither. Thanks to this quality, in the 19th and 20th centuries, women complemented their look with flowers at social events.
Natural habitat
Since the plant’s homeland is the south and west of America, the natural environment of the flower is seasonally dry equatorial forests at an altitude of no higher than 1500 meters.
Transplanting a plant
The plant does not like frequent transplants, and they are not needed. It needs to be replanted if:
- the roots have become too long and are hanging out of the holes in the pot;
- the soil begins to mold and turn sour, which means it has begun to decompose.
In the first case, you need a more spacious pot. At the same time, it is better to take fresh substrate. If there is enough space in the pot, but the soil has become unusable, you can only change it, leaving it in the same pot.
Cattleya should be replanted, being careful not to damage the roots. They need to be freed from old soil. Drainage and soil are poured into the bottom of the pot, the plant is placed there and covered with the remains of the soil.
Periodic – once every 2 years – change of the substrate will have a beneficial effect on the flowering of the plant.
Important! During transplantation, you need to remove all old, wrinkled pseudobulbs and damaged or diseased parts of the rhizome.
Varieties
There are a large number of representatives of the cattleya orchid. Each hybrid differs in size, shade, flowering duration, etc. The most common types should be considered.
Cattleya bicolor
One of the first representatives of this species, originally from Brazil. Natural environment - rocks, altitude from 400 to 1200 meters above sea level. In savannas it lives in well-ventilated places, protected from sunlight. The growth of such a crop can reach more than half a meter, and the diameter of the flower is 8-10 cm. The larger the size of the orchid, the greater the number of inflorescences it can have.
Blooms in autumn and winter. Cattleya can take on shades of brown, green or orange, with a purple lip and lighter edges.
Cattleya forbesii
This type of orchid was discovered more than two hundred years ago, one of the few white cattleyas. The height of the plant is no more than 20 centimeters, but despite this, the flowers are quite large and can reach 10 cm in diameter. Color: olive green, yellowish green with brown, the “lip” is white with a pinkish tint. Flowering season is summer and autumn.
Cattleya aclandiae
Homeland - Brazil. The species is adapted to living in trees at an altitude of up to 400 meters. A distinctive feature is green leaves with red “freckles”. The culture belongs to small orchids, the height reaches 7-12 cm. In the photo, the color of the Cattleya flower has a pink-lilac tint. Radius – no more than 5 cm.
Cattleya labiata (lipped)
Cattleya orchid lives on the bark of trees. Pseudobulbs have a spindle-shaped shape, the size does not exceed 25 cm. Color: pink, lilac with a “lip” of a similar shade, which has a pink fringe. The radius of flowers can reach 6-9 cm.
Blooms during the summer for a month.
Cattleya mossiae (Easter)
Originally from Venezuela. Flowering in the spring during the Easter holidays. The color of the flowers can range from soft pink to purple, and occasionally white. “Lip” is yellow and purple, with light fringe along the edges. The flower size reaches 18 centimeters.
The most popular forms obtained by sectioning are:
- Brassocattleya Binosa
- Laeliocattleya
- Sophrolaeliocattleya
Usually, they are united under a single name - Cattleya hybrida .
Kinds
Cattleya Bowringiana (C. bowringiana)
Nice purple halo
It occurs naturally in tropical forests, where it grows on trees. The stem can reach 70 cm. The flowers are crimson with bright dark veins and a white or yellow spot in the throat. When grown indoors, it does not grow more than 30 cm. Flowering begins in late autumn and lasts about a month.
Cattleya Forbesii (C. forbesii)
Small yellowish flowers!
It lives in Brazil, is characterized by its small size (15-20 cm) and moderate decorativeness. Its flowers are quite large, up to 10 cm. They bloom in spring for 1-2 weeks. It is the least demanding to care for, so it is recommended for beginning gardeners.
Giant Cattleya, or Warszewiczii (C. warscewiczii)
In the photo: Cattleya gigantea
It grows in the highlands of Colombia, has large pseudobulbs and long oblong leaves. The flowers, with a huge corolla up to 25 cm, are collected in long inflorescences; the lip has a wavy edge. Due to the size of the flower, it is often used in creating hybrids. Very difficult to care for. Blooms in late spring for two weeks.
Cattleya lipped (C. labiata)
Often used for breeding
Found naturally in the northeastern regions of Brazil. It has a small pseudobulb size - about 25 cm. It blooms from September to November with large flowers of pink or lilac color. Also often used for breeding.
Cattleya hybrid (C. hybrida)
Under this name, various varieties bred by breeders are united. They differ in the shades and shape of the flowers, and the size of the plant itself. Among them the most popular:
- White Cattleya (C. Earl Imperials),
- Fast-growing crimson (C. Miyuki Little Kin),
How to choose in a store
Choosing a healthy plant is not difficult: there should be no dark spots or any insects on the leaves. If you like a particular species, you should study the information about when this variety will bloom. The false bulb and leaves should be elastic, not wrinkled, light green or dark green in color. The stem of the plant should not be dry or contain any stains.
Assessing the condition of the root system is the most difficult thing: a cattleya flower is planted in an opaque transport container, so it is impossible to look through the wall of the pot and analyze the condition of the rhizome. You can take the tops of the plant in your hand and shake it slightly: if the flower shakes, then it has no roots; if it stands firmly, then the root system is intact. Practice shows that cattleyas sold in flower shops and garden centers either have no roots at all or have dead rhizomes.
STEP No. 1: We take the orchid out of the pot and free it from the old substrate.
The first difficulty that can be encountered at this stage, as a rule, arises in cases with large, well-developed plants, when the roots of the orchid not only actively crawl out, but are also very tightly intertwined inside the pot. It often happens that it is almost impossible to simply remove an orchid from there.
- If the orchid is sitting in a soft plastic pot, try (moving in a circle) to crush its walls a little; as a rule, this will be enough to remove the tightly intertwined ball of roots and substrate.
- If your orchid is planted in a clay or thick-walled plastic pot, then in this case you can use a not very sharp kitchen knife, carefully stick it into the substrate from the edge of the pot and move it a little. Next, you need to move in a circle and repeat this procedure again and again until the lump of intertwined roots and substrate is easily separated from the pot. You need to be especially careful in the area of pseudobulbs hanging outside the pot, so as not to damage the young roots of the plant. It is best to carry out the procedure bypassing this place and try to pull out the plant.
As in the first and second cases, breakage of some roots is inevitable, since they tightly stick to the walls of the pot and it is very difficult to separate them (without causing injury).
A completely opposite picture is observed in sick and weakened orchids, when the plant does not have many living roots. Sometimes it is enough to lightly pull such an orchid by its pseudobulbs, and it will easily jump out of the pot.
After the orchid has been successfully released, you need to clean its rhizome from the old (rotten) substrate, which in many cases is not so easy to do. First, you need to place the orchid in a bowl of warm water and leave it there for 15-20 minutes. When the substrate is sufficiently wet, it will be possible to proceed to further procedures.
The best way to shake the bark off the roots and more or less untangle them is to wiggle them with your fingers. It is best to perform this procedure in water. With one hand, hold the orchid by the pseudobulbs, and with the other, as if pushing the intertwined roots in different directions.
From time to time, it is advisable to drain the dirty water and help yourself with a shower, directing a stream of water to the rhizome. The water pressure must be adjusted so that it does not harm the roots with its force, and yet is strong enough to wash away the substrate from the rhizome.
It is not necessary to peel off ALL the bark to the last. If the remnants of the substrate are firmly ingrained into the roots, then leave them as is.
STEP #2: Removing rotten and dry roots.
One of the key points in replanting orchids is a thorough examination of the root system for the presence of any diseases or damage. It is imperative to remove all ROTTY and DRY roots. If ONLY PART of the root is damaged, then ONLY the DAMAGED area needs to be cut off TO HEALTHY (white or green) tissue.
REMEMBER
, the life cycle of the root system of an orchid like Cattleya is very short and lasts on average about 24-30 months, so having bad roots is the NORMAL. As a rule, pseudobulbs that are more than 3 years old either have no roots at all, or dry threads are concentrated in their place and must be removed. A very bad indicator is the presence of rotten roots in young sprouts and last year's pseudobulbs - this is a direct consequence of improperly organized care of orchids, especially in relation to watering. Most likely, you water your plant too often, and the substrate does not have time to dry out between waterings.
When working with the root system, situations very often arise when it is not entirely clear where the orchid has normal, healthy roots, and where they are already rotten. Regardless of your color, HEALTHY roots
Orchids
are always dense and hard
, but
ROTENT roots are hollow
, and very often when you press on them, water flows out, the root shell peels off and the root thread is exposed. If in doubt, cut the tip of the root and look at the cut.
The cutting areas must be disinfected, for example, sprinkled with cinnamon or activated carbon powder, coated with sulfur, treated with garlic solution or alcohol-free antiseptics. HIGHLY NOT RECOMMENDED
treat wounds with vodka, iodine or brilliant green, as the alcohol they contain rises up the capillaries, drying out healthy root tissue along the way. In just a few hours, the entire remainder of the root can die.
After disinfection, it is advisable to dry the orchid roots a little - this will speed up the healing process. For these purposes, it is advisable to place the plant in a warm place, for example, on a balcony in the summer.
STEP #3: Dividing an adult plant into parts.
In order to correctly divide an orchid such as Cattleya into parts, you need to remember that this is a sympodial orchid and its development occurs through the formation of new shoots, which, growing to a certain size, themselves begin to turn into pseudobulbs, bloom and produce new offspring. However, new sprouts of an orchid do not grow anyhow, but only from clearly defined BUDS, concentrated in the lower part of the pseudobulbs. On average, there are from 1 to 3 such buds for each individual pseudobulb. The first thing to do at this stage is to find all these kidneys and find out in what condition they are.
KIDNEYS
should be juicy, green or purple, preferably without any dry scales.
When dividing a plant into parts, you need to consider the following points:
- For each new plant, you need to leave at least 3 pseudobulbs, which must have at least one living bud that produces a new sprout.
- Each new plant should have as many living roots as possible (at least one long root).
Before work, all cutting objects must not only be washed well, but also disinfected, for example, wiped in alcohol or heated over a fire, since it is through them that various types of viral and bacterial infections are most often introduced. The cutting area also needs to be disinfected and slightly dried. The wounds can be sprinkled with coal or cinnamon, covered with sulfur, iodine or brilliant green (unlike the root system, here drying with alcohol will play a positive role for the plant).
REMEMBER
that dividing the plant into parts when replanting is NOT necessary; the larger the bush of the plant, the more magnificent it looks during flowering.
HIGHLY NOT RECOMMENDED
BEGINNERS should do the dividing of orchids, since Cattleya is a rather complex plant, and it is advisable to learn how to properly care for it on a large, well-developed bush. It is strongly recommended that you first bring the plant to flowering at least once, find out all the pitfalls in caring for orchids (light, watering, temperature, etc.), and then experiment with its propagation.
STEP #4: Planting the plant.
To prevent contamination of the substrate by pests or soil fungi, it is advisable to boil it before use. For example, pour it into a saucepan, pour boiling water over it and leave it for 10 minutes. Then the water will need to be drained, and the substrate will need to be rinsed again under running hot water.
When choosing a pot, you need to take into account the general condition of the root system. If it is severely damaged and there are not many healthy roots left, then it is advisable to take the pot so that all the roots fit into it, and there is no more than 1-2 cm of free space on the sides. Before planting, the pots need to be washed thoroughly, preferably with a cleaning agent.
One of the key points in the entire procedure of replanting an orchid is the CORRECT POSITION of the plant IN THE POT.
. The orchid needs to be planted so that there is as much free space as possible in front of its new shoots, and the old (most unpromising) pseudobulbs are as close to the edge as possible.
In cases where the orchid does not have one clear direction of development of the rhizome, and there are new shoots from several edges, then it can be placed in the middle, again focusing on ensuring that there is as much free space as possible in front of the youngest pseudobulbs (or new shoots). space.
Only bury the roots of the orchid so that the rhizome and the base of the pseudobulbs lie on the surface of the substrate, otherwise they may begin to rot. You can bury the rhizome a little deeper only in very old pseudobulbs, which no longer have living buds capable of producing new offspring.
In order to finally secure the plant in the pot, you need to stick sticks next to the pseudobulbs and tie them to them. Over time, when the plant has established its roots in the substrate on its own, the supports can be removed.
All materials presented above are the property of this site, the full or partial publication of which (in accordance with the Law on Copyright and Related Rights) on other resources is prohibited.
World of Orchids
Cattleya care at home after purchase
In order for Cattleya to grow and develop correctly, it needs regular care at home.
Location and lighting
The Cattleya plant needs intense lighting, so the best place for Cattleya after purchase will be a windowsill facing south or east. If this is not possible, the pot with the plant can be left on the south side, but at noon it is necessary to shade the orchid in order to avoid overheating and sunburn.
But a flower located on the north side will not bloom even when interacting with artificial light.
Sometimes the leaves of a flower themselves can signal a problem (the appearance of spots, a change in color), so this crop must be treated carefully.
The room where the cattleya is located should be ventilated, but drafts should be avoided. If the air temperature is not lower than 13-15 degrees, the flower can be safely left on a loggia or glassed-in balcony with an influx of fresh air.
Temperature
Since each type of cattleya orchid has an individual temperature, you need to know in detail about your own hybrid. For a heat-loving plant:
– Summer temperature: 25-28°C during the day, 20-22°C at night
– Winter temperature: 16-18°C during the day, 12-14°C at night
For other species, these parameters are not suitable: they do not tolerate temperatures above 25 °C in the summer, but in winter a temperature of 10-12 °C is considered optimal for proper functioning.
If the plant is in the phase of active growth or flowering, the temperature difference should not be less than 5°C, but not exceed 8°C. Otherwise, the flower may either not bloom or become sick.
Critical temperatures: maximum 30°C and minimum 5°C.
Watering
It is recommended to water the orchid 2-3 times a week after lunch. It is important to ensure that the soil is completely dry after the last watering, otherwise excess moisture can destroy the flower. In the mornings and evenings, it is recommended to spray the cattleya, avoiding getting water on the inflorescences.
The water should be soft: it is better to take distilled or boiled water. Moisture should flow to the root. There is no need to pour leaves, otherwise pus may appear.
In the summer, you can lower the flower pot into water for 7-15 minutes.
In winter, the roots absorb moisture less, so watering should be no more than 2-4 times a month.
Humidity
To care for cattleya, it is necessary to provide a high percentage of humidity in the room. At the same time, you should not forget about ventilation: a fresh air flow is needed for full growth.
Since the humidity level decreases in winter, it is worth thinking in advance about how to provide optimal conditions for the plant.
Top dressing
Fertilizer is an integral part of catleya care . It must correspond to the phase of flower development. During the active growth phase, you should choose fertilizing with nitrogen supplements. During the formation of false bulbs, fertilizers should contain phosphorus-potassium vitamins. You need to feed the orchid several times a month. During the formation of buds, fertilizing should be stopped. This way the Cattleya blooms will last longer.
It is recommended to mix additives with watering to stimulate the formation of buds with large flowers.
During dormancy, the orchid does not need any supplements.
Rest period
After the orchid flowering phase, you need to rest. The duration of the dormant period depends on the hybrid. Cattleyas that bloom in autumn or in the first month of winter rest immediately after flowering until the first shoot appears. Crops that bloom in late winter - the first months of spring rest after the formation of a new bulb in the fall before flowering begins. During the dormant period, the cattleya needs a cool place. Watering - no more than twice a month, exclude fertilizing. The light should be bright, you can use an LED lamp.
At this time, you need to monitor the condition of the pseudobulbs and prevent them from shrinking. There is no need to spray the flower. A resting orchid should not be exposed to sunlight to avoid reforming the plant's life cycle.
Cattleya soil
For Cattleya, you can use regular soil purchased at the store. You can prepare the substrate yourself by mixing bark, polystyrene foam, expanded clay, peat and moss. If desired, you can add pieces of charcoal to prevent fungus. This way the substrate can imitate the natural habitat of the crop.
If the orchid grows on the south side, you can use “coco soil”, which includes bark, oak leaves, moss and coconut fiber. Thanks to the structure of the fiber, the rooting process in the substrate will be accelerated.
Transfer
When caring for and growing cattleya, you must remember that this plant reacts negatively to transplantation. If there is no such need, the flower needs to be replanted every few years to renew the soil.
You can take any pot, as long as it does not allow air and sunlight to pass through. Two days before transplanting, the flower cannot be watered.
Instructions for transplanting Cattleya:
- Carefully pull the plants out of the pot and inspect the root system for damaged areas. If such roots are found, they need to be cut off and the cut areas treated with charcoal.
- Place a layer of substrate on the bottom of the new pot.
- Place the orchid in a pot and fill the voids with soil.
After the procedure, it is recommended to place a support in the container with the flower so that the plant does not tilt.
After transplantation, you should avoid watering for a week and moving the orchid from one place to another.
Features of planting and transplanting cattleya
In its natural environment, the orchid grows on trees, so bark (preferably coniferous) and sphagnum moss are used as a substrate for planting. The first component is soaked for several days for better moisture retention. All ingredients are crushed, polystyrene foam and perlite are added to the mixture. You can also purchase ready-made soil for orchids in a specialty store.
Cattleya is difficult to tolerate landing and transshipment, so it can only be disturbed in extreme cases. When it becomes crowded in the pot, the root system will begin to rot or the plant will need to be revived.
If transplantation is still necessary, it is better to do it in the spring, when shoots form on the bulbs. During this period, the shoots are small, the risk of damaging them is minimal.
Planting in various containers
Mini varieties of hybrid cattleyas, no more than 10 cm in size, develop well in glass gardens - florariums. Planting is done as follows:
- A florarium is prepared: an aquarium, a jar, a vase (any glass container) is used.
- A layer of stones is laid out on the bottom.
- Crushed bark is poured (2 cm pieces).
- A thin layer of damp sphagnum moss is applied.
- An orchid is placed on top and secured with thin sticks.
- The composition is complemented by other exotic plants suitable for florariums (fittonia and others).
- Decorated with decorative elements.
If planting is done in a pot, then when choosing it you need to pay attention to ventilation. The plant loves air; if there is not enough air, it will die. Ceramic and plastic pots are suitable for cattleya.
The advantage of the first material is that it is natural. Ceramics protects the root system from sudden temperature changes. However, the service life of such a pot is short: after three to four years it will begin to collapse under the influence of water due to the growth of roots. Plastic flowerpots are characterized by their low cost and a wide range of shades and shapes. In addition, such a pot will last much longer than a ceramic one.
Planting is done as follows:
- A drainage layer of gravel or expanded clay is laid on the bottom with a layer of 2 cm.
- A layer of bark and coarse sphagnum moss is poured.
- A flower is placed on top, a layer of substrate with smaller pieces of the constituent components is laid out.
- The pot is placed on a tray of water.
Cattleya orchid propagation
This crop can be propagated in several ways, for example, using seeds or dividing pseudobulbs. But at home, it is better to use the second method, as it guarantees quick results and effects.
This process occurs during plant replanting. After removing the Cattleya from the pot, it is soaked in water to soak the soil. This will make it easier to disassemble the rhizome. After time, the orchid is dried and divided into parts. Important: each part must have living roots and at least three onions. The “wounds” must be treated with charcoal, and future flowers must be planted in pots.
Growing Cattleya Orchid
After planting, the cattleya orchid needs proper care at home.
You need to put a support in the pot, since the rhizome is not yet fixed in the ground. Over time it can be removed.
If the roots have been drying all night, you need to water the orchid right away; if less, you should postpone watering for a couple of days. If propagation was carried out in the summer, it is necessary to water on the second day, if in winter - on the fourth. Since false bulbs always have a supply of water, there is no need to worry about the plant.
Diseases and pests, methods of protection and treatment
Unfortunately, sometimes even with careful care, cattleya may neither grow nor bloom, or even die. It's all about crop diseases or the presence of insects that harm the flower.
Diseases
The main diseases of orchids are:
- Gray rot: spots with a gray coating on flowers
The roots need to be soaked in water with succinic acid for several days, and after new ones appear, the orchid must be transplanted into new soil.
- Chlorosis: yellow spots on leaves
This disease indicates a lack of iron. It is recommended to replant the flower, and add spraying with preparations high in this mineral to the care of the cattleya orchid.
- Root rot: blackening of shoots and leaves
If overwatered, the roots may begin to rot. In order to correct the situation, the plant needs to be replanted and not watered temporarily.
- Mosaic virus: deformation of flowers and leaves (no treatment possible)
This disease is characterized by excess soil moisture, which subsequently results in deformations. There is no treatment, the orchid will have to be disposed of and resort to planting a new cattleya .
It is important to notice the symptoms in time to avoid the death of the plant.
Pests
The queen of orchids is simply adored by various insects, especially spider mites, aphids, mealybugs, whiteflies, and scale insects. To prevent infection, the flower must be inspected regularly. If pests are still found, you should try to wash them off with a warm shower. When most of the insects are destroyed, there is no need to use drugs. If pests appear again, you should resort to the use of chemicals, such as insecticides.
Manifold
Important! It is worth noting that all representatives of this species bloom in different periods.
Cattleya Ekland, named after the wife of the eminent gardener who first began breeding this species, blooms from May to August with unusual flowers with shades of yellow, decorated with various spots, most often purple. The edges of the flowers are wavy.
Cattleya Bowringa - grows up to 70 centimeters, with purple flowers and a yellow spot on the lip, blooms for two to three weeks in autumn-winter. The leaves are distinguished by their elongated shape, the flower has a diameter of 7 centimeters.
Cattleya Forbes is a "mini" species of cattleya, 10-20 cm tall, with a pink coating on the white lip. Two leaves with a short peduncle and a thin stem are crowned with several large yellow-brown flowers (up to 10 cm), blooming in summer and autumn.
Large Cattleya - huge inflorescences of 3-15 flowers with a diameter of up to 17 centimeters, also called Cattleya grandiflora. They are lilac in shade, apparently due to their relationship with the genus Liliaceae, with a cylindrical pseudobulb.
Cattleya hybrid - carries a variety of crossed species, including:
- Eclipse - purple hybrid
- White Cattleya C. Earl Imperials
- C. Luteous Forb
Cattleya Dinard
The well-known hybrid Blue Heaven is a beautiful variation of orchids, pleasing with corollas up to 20 cm in size. This cattleya has a blue flower with sepals and corrugated petals of a heavenly or lilac tone. The plant's lip is purple with a corrugated edge, its throat is yellow-golden. The Dinard orchid has a deep, pleasant aroma and blooms in both spring and autumn.
Cattleya Aclanda
The Aclanda orchid is a dwarf plant that grows naturally in Brazil on single trees near rivers. This cattleya, as a houseplant, is attractive with its low height - about 10 cm. It is equipped with rounded bulbs and two leathery leaf plates; the inflorescence consists of one or two corollas. Each of them is 10 cm in size, they are fragrant, dense, long-lived. Cattleya Aclanda produces large greenish-straw flowers with chocolate-chestnut streaks and spots. The lip on the corolla is pink-white or reddish with light borders.
Cattleya Mix
Many hybrid plants are called Mix orchids. During breeding, different types of cattleyas were crossed with each other with repeated intervarietal mixing. The result was orchids with contrasting petals and lips (for example, lemon corollas with burgundy centers). In most cases, their ancestor is Cattleya labia. It has foliage up to 25 cm in size, peduncles 10-15 cm long. Cattleya has a color from white to purple of varying intensity. The lip is noticeable, darker, with reddish streaks in the throat, forms a wide tube with a curly edge.
Cattleya Maxima
The maxima orchid grows naturally in Colombia, Peru, and Ecuador. It has elongated elliptical leaf plates of 25 cm and a peduncle of 18 cm. This lush orchid, Cattleya maxima, can have up to 15 corollas on one stem. Its flowers are snow-white or lavender-purple with purplish-violet thin veins on the inside of the lip and a yellow streak. The orchid is distinguished by the interesting structure of its petals - they are elongated-lanceolate, narrow, curved back at the ends and along the edge.
Cattleya Schroeder
Schroeder's orchid is a beautiful diva in the kingdom of species orchids, the owner of many honorary certificates, and was named in honor of the German baroness - the wife of the botanist who bred this species. Cattleya Schroeder is a large flower, has a delicate pink-pearl color of the petals, a lip with a dark lemon or fiery interior and a sweetish smell. There is a white cattleya with a lemon core; dark colors are not found in this variety. Flowers of the Schroeder variety last longer than all other species of orchids - about five weeks.
Questions and answers
When caring for such a beauty, questions often arise that torment flower growers. There are only three common questions.
Why doesn't Cattleya bloom?
Most often, a flower does not want to bloom due to the lack of proper conditions that could ensure the formation and development of a peduncle. In order to avoid questions about how to bloom a cattleya, you need to make every effort during the active growth phase so that the plant blooms.
How to grow new roots?
Roots can be lost due to several factors:
- Improper care of Cattleya at home
- Old age
- Diseases
The most effective way to grow roots in a cattleya is to soak the orchid:
- A pot without holes is filled with water, placed in a well-lit place, and the orchid is placed for a couple of hours.
- The entire process of root growth lasts for a month; It is recommended to carry out this procedure in the warm season
- When the first roots appear, the flower should be left in water for an hour longer.
- When a full-fledged rhizome is formed, the plant can be transplanted into the ground.
