What does the Cattleya orchid look like and where does it come from?
Cattleya belongs to the multi-species Orchidaceae family. The plant received its name in honor of the British botanist and gardener William Cattley (or Cattleya), who in 1818 first made these orchids bloom in climatic conditions radically different from their native South and Central American tropics. The plant appeared in Europe a year earlier thanks to the efforts of American flora researcher William Swainson and created a real sensation.
The name Cattleya came into use after John Lindley published his book An Anthology of Botany (essentially a description of exotic plants) in 1821, which detailed Cattleya's successes.
In nature, the Cattleya orchid most often settles on trees, using them as a support.
In nature, the habitats of the Cattleya orchid are areas with different altitudes above sea level, climatic and weather conditions. Therefore, the plants bear little resemblance to each other. There are cattleya epiphytes and lithophytes, the flower diameter varies from 5 to 25 cm (by the way, the buds of natural orchids are even larger than those of selection hybrids).
Without knowledge of the structure of an orchid, it is impossible to properly care for the flower.
The aroma is subtle, similar to the smell of lily of the valley, lily (some breeding hybrids lack it). One flower lasts 3–4 weeks, they bloom sequentially. Most cattleyas bloom in autumn or winter.
The structure of the flower is typical for Orchids. It consists of three bright sepals and three larger petals, the middle of which (of a contrasting tone) is very elongated, resembling a protruding lip or funnel. Its edge is scalloped. This structure is due to the fact that orchids are pollinated by hummingbirds. The middle petal is a kind of “landing platform” for them.
The structure of an orchid flower is due to the fact that they are pollinated by hummingbirds
Cattleya constantly forms new shoots, so it grows greatly in width. The stem of the plant is a so-called tuberidium with 2-3 internodes, popularly called “pseudobulb”. It is quite thick, where the orchid stores moisture and nutrients absorbed by aerial roots. The shape of the stem is similar to a spindle slightly flattened along the vertical axis. In nature, the height of plants can reach 1.5 m, at home - 30–45 cm.
Orchid pseudobulbs are used to store moisture and nutrients.
The leaves are hard and smooth. There are rarely more than two leaf blades on a pseudobulb. The roots of the orchid are clearly recognizable - thick, but fragile, smooth, they are covered with a layer of special fabric that absorbs moisture (velomen).
Cattleya fell in love with European flower growers immediately and forever, not least due to its ability to interspecies crossing. The first hybrids bred were named in honor of the most revered saints and Christian holidays.
Reviews from gardeners about the Cattleya orchid
This is a strict regime orchid. It has a period of growth and dormancy, which the plant itself will show. In no case should you water regularly and frequently at the very beginning of growth; because of this, the flower bud may not develop in some Cattleyas. At this stage, the plant does not need a lot of water, there is nothing to feed yet. I adhere to one scheme for caring for Cattleyas, I won’t describe it at length, because everyone has different conditions, each orchidist does it according to his own scheme. Cattleyas like to dry out within a day; the substrate should not be moisture-intensive. After all, roots that don’t dry out for a long time are a direct path to the trash can! There is no need to feel sorry for the plant, as I myself did before... What is the soul holding on to? How does it grow in this bark, the flower will wither, it needs to be watered!
1Crystal1
https://otzovik.com/review_2452851.html
I have always dreamed of such beauty in my apartment. I waited and they gave it to me, but after a while I realized that this was not my flower. The plant requires very troublesome care and suitable climatic conditions. I read that the room should have a high level of humidity and enough shade, but all my windows face the sunny side and the heat is like in the desert. So soon my flower began to dry out. No matter how hard I tried to bring him back to life, it didn’t work. I had to give it to my mom. Her conditions turned out to be more suitable. Now I admire the bright blooms only when I come to visit. This pot is more suitable for those who can devote a lot of time to the flower and provide increased care.
Deviato4ka
https://otzovik.com/review_1796551.html
This year, instead of a souvenir, I brought Cattleya orchid seedlings from Thailand! I found a lot of literature about this flower on the Internet; small sprouts are very different from an already mature plant. I would like to start with the positives: 1) The flower is very rare in our area, and if it does take root with me, I will be one of the rare owners of this beautiful flower; 2) It germinates in a special bottle called a “flask”, so you don’t have to worry about care for the first 1-3 months; 3) Price, of course: there are several plants in the flask, of which you can grow from 3 to 50 (depending on the variety and price). Disadvantages: 1) Transportation, it is advisable that everything is not mixed in the flask, it can be damaged; 2) Germination, there is no guarantee that all plants will take root; 3) Climate and temperature changes can also have an adverse effect, since we arrive from a warm country in the winter, as in our case.
pups16
https://otzovik.com/review_2786239.html
I was lucky enough to purchase a bottle of Orange Cattleya babies in Thailand a year ago. Exactly a year has passed since the babies were removed from the gel and placed in the substrate. So far I am caring for them as follows: lighting in winter, shading in summer, watering once a week, regular spraying with slightly warm water. I hope to wait until it blooms. I recommend this variety to everyone! The Cattleya orchid is the magic and charm that is so lacking in the northern latitudes!
Lifehack
https://irecommend.ru/content/orkhideya-cattleya-olitsetvorenie-krasoty
My Cattleyas grow their root system very well if the bark is covered with a small layer of sphagnum moss. I have all of them standing like this, even those that have no roots at all, they grow them very well.
Marina R.
https://ruorchids.ru/fora/viewtopic.php?t=97
What varieties can be grown at home?
There are about 65 cattleyas found in nature, but there are incomparably more breeding hybrids. Any gardener will find a shade to his liking, but so far it has not been possible to produce only pure black and bright blue flowers.
Cattleyas growing in natural conditions:
- Two-color (bicolor). Plant height is 50–60 cm. The shoots are relatively thin. On each peduncle there is one flower with a diameter of 8–10 cm.
- Bowringiana. At home, it rarely grows above 35 cm. Flower diameter is 5–7 cm. There are up to 20 flowers in one inflorescence. After autumn flowering it needs a short period of rest.
- Forbes (forbesii). A miniature plant, no higher than 20 cm (usually 10–15 cm). The flowers are about 5 cm in diameter (there are 4–6 of them in an inflorescence), bloom during the summer for 10–15 days. The most unpretentious among cattleyas, but also one of the least decorative.
- Lipped (labiata). Petals are corrugated. The diameter of the flower is 15 cm, there are 2–3 of them in the inflorescence. Pseudobulbs are flat, covered with olive scales. The leaves, which are quite wide for cattleyas, are shallowly cut in two at the top. The main material for the creativity of breeders.
- Warshewicz or giant (warscewiczii). Height - 30–40 cm. The flowers are very large (25–30 cm), with a pronounced aroma, collected several times in racemes. Very whimsical, with rare exceptions, “in captivity” it blooms only in greenhouses and greenhouses.
- Orange-red (aurantiaca). Height - up to 40 cm. Shoots are covered with whitish scales. The height of the peduncle is no more than 20 cm. The diameter of the flower is 35 cm, there are 4–10 of them in the inflorescence.
- Ekland or Lady Ekland (aclandiae). A miniature epiphyte up to 15 cm high. Flower diameter is up to 10 cm. There are no more than two of them on one peduncle.
- Dow (dowiana). Sometimes it is not quite correctly called “doviana”. A very large lip, covered with thick fringe. Height - no more than 20 cm. Flower diameter - 15 cm. Widely used in breeding.
- Mossy (mossiae). An endemic species found exclusively in Venezuela. The national flower of this state. Height - up to 30 cm. In the inflorescence there are 7 flowers with a diameter of up to 15 cm. The petals are strongly fringed.
- Skinner (skinneri). The national flower of Costa Rica, although it grows not only there. The pseudobulbs are thick, 25–30 cm high. The diameter of the flower is 6–8 cm, there are 10–12 of them in the inflorescence.
- Trianae. In one inflorescence, the color of the petals can vary from almost white to deep purple. There is always a saffron-colored spot in the center of the lip. “Parent” of many breeding hybrids.
- Percival (percivaliana). Height - up to 15 cm. Peduncle length - up to 25 cm. Inflorescence has 2-4 flowers with a diameter of 10-12 cm. Blooms in mid-winter.
- Granular (granulose). Very unusual flowers, as if made of wax. Inflorescences are racemose, with 5–9 flowers.
Photo gallery: Cattleyas found in nature
Cattleya bicolor is distinguished by very fleshy petals, the edges of which do not curl.
Cattleya Bowringa - very bright lilac orchids (a characteristic feature is a bright yellow spot on the lip)
Cattleya Forbes - pastel pink or white lip stands out effectively against the background of discreet yellowish-beige petals
Cattleya lipped - the flowers shimmer in different shades of pink, lilac and purple
Cattleya Varshevich - pastel, lilac petals, lip, on the contrary, rich amestic
Cattleya orange-red with flame-colored petals
Cattleya Ekland - petals are yellowish-beige, with chocolate spots; the lips change shades from pale pink to purple
In Cattleya Dow, the color of the petals varies from cream to golden with a slight red undertone; the lip seems to be velvety, bright scarlet, with yellowish veins
Cattleya Mossi - very delicate white or pastel pink petals and a large lip with purple spots and a yellow base
Skinner's Cattleya is similar to Bowring's Cattleya, but unlike it, it blooms in spring
Cattleya triana - this chameleon plant is highly valued by breeders
Cattleya Percival - petals are almost white, the lip is darker, with a pinkish border along the edge and a saffron base
The olive green petals of Cattleya granulosa would be almost invisible if not for the bright crimson spots on the lip
It is impossible to list all breeding hybrids of cattleyas.
Photo gallery: results of the work of breeders
Cattleya Eclipse - very large, dark crimson or purple flowers. The Margaret Degenhardt Saturn hybrid has petals painted in different shades of yellow, soft pink and lilac, smoothly blending into each other, it looks like a sunset in the tropics (blooms twice a year)
Earl Imperialis is a very popular and relatively unpretentious snow-white orchid with ruffled petals and a lip.
Cattleya Miyuki Little King is distinguished by its growth rate and inflorescences similar to clusters Cattleya Luteous Forb - a miniature fragrant hybrid with petals of an unusual lime color
The Chocolate Drop hybrid has petals of an interesting raspberry-chocolate color (flower height - up to 40 cm, flower diameter - 4-5 cm) Cattleya Summer Stars are the favorite flowers of brides, rivaling the whiteness of the dress
Cattleya structure
To learn how to properly care for these magnificent orchids, you need to understand their structure, which is somewhat different from the structure of the houseplants we are used to.
The main part of Cattleya is the rhizome
, a thick creeping rhizome, from which white roots grow downward, and pseudobulb shoots with leaves grow upward. On the rhizome there are buds from which the growth of each new shoot begins.
New shoots develop into a thickened stem with one or two tough leaves at the top. Such modified stems are called pseudobulbs
(or simply bulbs) - in them the cattleya accumulates moisture and nutrients. Pseudobulbs can be round, fusiform or cylindrical, very small or very large - it depends on the type of cattleya.
One or two hard sheets
located in the upper part of the pseudobulb. Depending on the number of leaves on the bulb, all cattleyas are conventionally divided into single-leaf and bileaf. On very old pseudobulbs, leaves die over time - this is a natural process and you should not be afraid of it.
Case
appears at the base of the leaf before flowering - it is a small translucent leaf, inside of which a shoot with flower buds gradually develops. Some species and hybrids of cattleyas bloom without a sheath - their flower shoot grows directly from the base of the leaf.
The flower shoot itself is called a peduncle
. Most often, from one to three flowers develop on one peduncle. Some multiflora hybrids can have up to 20 flowers on one peduncle. After flowering, the peduncle dries out and falls off.
Roots
Cattleyas are thick, white, with a green tip. When watered, the root absorbs water and turns light green. Old roots become yellow-brown in color and gradually dry out. Like other epiphytes, the aerial roots of cattleyas can grow in any direction, protruding from the pot or growing through the lower drainage holes. This is normal for orchids and is not a reason to replant the plant.
Flower
Cattleyas, depending on the species, can reach 23 cm in diameter. The delightful aroma, exquisite color and rich velvety texture of the petals, shimmering in the light like sugar crystals, will not leave anyone indifferent. The most spectacular wide lower petal is called the “lip”. It can be tubular or wide funnel-shaped. Two wide side petals are petals. The three remaining narrow petals, which are modified sepals, are sepals.
Table: suitable conditions for growing Cattleya orchids (temperature and more)
| Factor | Recommendations |
| Location | Window sill facing south, southeast, southwest. In summer you can display it on a loggia or a closed veranda. |
| Lighting | Bright light, daylight hours at least 12 hours (8:00–20:00). Shading is not necessary if the sun's rays hit the plants in the mornings or evenings. For additional illumination, use only special phytolamps (any other lamps will give the leaves a purple tint). But there are also shade-tolerant hybrids - focus on the healthy bright green color of the leaves. You cannot change the light level suddenly. |
| Temperature | During the active growing season - 22–30ºС. The required difference during the day is about 7ºС (at night in the summer, open the windows, but avoid drafts). This is a necessary condition for flowering, determined by the specifics of the natural habitat. During the winter holidays - 12–15ºС. Below 5ºС and above 40ºС is dangerous for the life of an orchid. |
| Air humidity | The optimal value is 60–80%. The hotter it is outside, the higher it should be. In extreme heat, you can place a container of water nearby or cover the soil with damp moss, expanded clay, or peat. It is better to spray (only in the warm season) the surrounding air, creating a suspension of tiny droplets. Getting water on pseudobulbs, peduncles, and flowers is not recommended. |
The brighter the color of the petals and the larger the flower, the more natural light the cattleya needs to bloom. The hybrids collectively known as Potinara tolerate shade best. Accordingly, the conditions of keeping for different types of cattleya vary greatly. Therefore, it is advisable to know exactly the name of the variety.
Table: Temperature, lighting, humidity - necessary conditions
| Season | Lighting | Humidity | Temperature |
| Spring Summer | The orchid is very light-loving. Cattleya requires direct sunlight to bloom. The ideal option would be to place it on a south-facing window. In summer it is necessary to shade the plant from the scorching sun. | Humidity should be fairly high, although modern varieties can survive in dry conditions. Cattleyas like to stand in a tray of water where they sink their roots. In hot weather, you can spray both the substrate and the plants twice a day, thereby increasing the humidity. | Not higher than 35 °C during the day and 16–22 °C at night |
| Autumn winter | Requires a bright place. A window facing East or West is perfect. If the orchid is in a dormant period, then there is no need to additionally illuminate the plant. Varieties that bloom in winter and early spring must be illuminated with fluorescent lamps. | There is no need to spray Cattleya additionally. If the air is too dry, once a month the flower can be given a warm shower. | 16–18 °C during the day and not lower than 12 °C at night |
Proper plant transplantation and subsequent care
Cattleyas vitally need good aeration, so the more drainage holes in the pot and the looser the soil, the better. The soil can be purchased at specialized stores or mixed yourself.
Orchids do not like frequent transplants. One procedure every 2-3 years is quite enough. If the roots are sticking out of the drainage holes, you need to take a larger pot. Obviously sour, sagging and moldy soil is enough to completely change, while sterilizing the pot.
Cattleya cannot be removed from the pot unless the substrate is thoroughly wetted first.
Orchids prefer special soil:
- crushed sphagnum moss and wet tree bark (1:1);
- peat chips, small pieces of charcoal, sphagnum moss, powdered tree bark (1:1:1:1);
- land from under coniferous trees; crushed pine or spruce bark and cones, finely chopped fern rhizomes, peat (2:2:1:3).
The soil for the Cattleya orchid bears little resemblance to soil in the usual sense of the word.
Transplanting a Cattleya orchid is a simple procedure. The best time for it is the very beginning of the active growing season (new shoots reach a height of 2–3 cm). Procedure steps:
- Place a layer of drainage at least 3 cm thick on the bottom of the pot. Approximately the same amount of substrate on top.
- Remove the flower from the old pot and shake off the soil from the roots. It is impossible to remove cattleyas from the container without preliminary abundant watering, especially if the pot is ceramic.
- Using a sharp knife, cut off all dried pseudobulbs, rotten roots, and other parts of the plant damaged by diseases and pests. Sprinkle all sections with crushed chalk, wood ash, and activated carbon powder.
- Replant the plant, leaving the base of the rhizome on the surface. You may need support for a while. Add substrate to the edges of the pot.
- Protect the flower from direct sunlight for 3-4 days and do not water it. Then return to your usual place and resume care.
When transplanting cattleyas, be sure to cut off all dry and/or diseased roots.
Video: how to properly transplant cattleyas
Cattleya flowering
The main feature of keeping Cattleya during flowering is the change in light conditions. The flowers will last longer if it is in light shade.
It is necessary to remove the plant from direct sunlight only when the buds bloom and the flowers acquire a bright, rich color.
Only mature plants bloom.
Flower shape and color
On a thick peduncle, covered in a cover of integumentary leaves, racemose inflorescences of large flowers from 5 to 15 cm are formed. The shape of the flower is typical of orchids. These are three brightly colored sepals and five larger petals. The protruding lip (middle petal) is brighter than the surrounding ones. In shape it resembles an iris or gladiolus flower. The color can be very diverse - from bright saturated colors to pastel soft golden, yellow and orange shades.
The flower lasts up to 30 days. As a rule, it is not limited to one peduncle, so the flowering period of cattleya can be long.
Care after flowering
Fall-blooming cattleyas have no obvious dormant period. After the active growth of the bulb, a peduncle appears, and after flowering the period of active growth begins again. This means that it will be cared for as if it were actively growing.
Spring flowering cattleyas, on the contrary, can rest twice a year - before and after flowering. It all depends on its variety. If after flowering there is a period of rest, watering is reduced and fertilizing is stopped.
How to care for a flower?
Important points in caring for a Cattleya orchid are watering and fertilizing.
Watering
Cattleya roots should dry out completely between waterings. Therefore, it is enough to place the pot once every 5-7 days for 30-45 minutes in a container with water at room temperature, which should not touch the leaves and pseudobulbs. Watering frequency is adjusted depending on the time of year and weather. From the moment the peduncle appears, the orchid needs more water.
Cattleyas, like any inhabitants of the tropics, love water very much, but only warm and soft
The plant also needs regular washing of the substrate (5-10 minutes under running warm water every month). This prevents soil salinization. Drops of water that fall on the leaves during the process are wiped off as quickly as possible.
Fertilizer application
Cattleyas need feeding most of all at the beginning of the active growing season. Use special products for orchids or universal fertilizers for flowering indoor plants in the minimum dosage (a quarter of the recommended). Add fertilizer to your watering water weekly. If it is not specifically intended for orchids, before doing this, soak the flower for 1–1.5 hours in plain water.
When pseudobulbs stop growing, nitrogen-containing fertilizing is stopped. From the moment the peduncle is formed until the beginning of flowering, cattleyas are fed with products with a high content of phosphorus and potassium.
You need to know exactly when and what kind of feeding the Cattleya orchid needs
Rest period
The dormant period for most orchids occurs in late autumn and winter. “Resting” cattleyas are watered approximately once every 10–14 days, no fertilizing is applied, and showering is stopped. Diffused light and keeping it in a cool room are important.
The lower the temperature, the worse the roots absorb water. But you also can’t let the pseudobulbs dry out and shrivel.
It is advisable to move the resting cattleya closer to the window - the winter sun is not so active
Bloom
It is immediately worth noting that only adult orchids bloom. Therefore, the purchased flower must have at least 4 pseudobulbs, shiny leaves of an even tone, smooth thick roots and remnants of last year’s flower stalks. Ideally, you need to buy a blooming orchid.
It is easiest to achieve flowering from hybrid cattleyas from the Potinara group of varieties or miniature two-leaved species. They often bloom not once, but 2-3 times a year. The most capricious are large-flowered orchids that do not have a precisely defined flowering period. About 4 months pass from the formation of a flower bud to the appearance of a peduncle. You can “help” the plant a little by cutting off the top of the “case” in which the buds are hidden. To prolong flowering as much as possible, placing the plant with its buds in full bloom and gaining a rich tone in light partial shade.
After the petals fall, cut the peduncle slightly diagonally, leaving a “stump” 1–2 cm high. Sprinkle the cut with wood ash, colloidal sulfur, and lubricate it with brilliant green or iodine. Observe the flower for a while to make sure there are no signs of rot.
Video: how to make a Cattleya orchid bloom
Secrets of care and growing features
How to water and feed?
It is necessary to water and fertilize regularly so that the orchid enjoys flowering. The plant should be moistened from above when the bark in the container dries. It is worth leaving the liquid in the pan for a while so that the flower drinks enough.
Another way to water Cattleya is to immerse the pot with the plant in water. Two or three times a week, the container is dipped in warm liquid and held until the soil is completely saturated with moisture.
It is recommended to fertilize only during the development of pseudobulbs; stopping it is a signal to refuse to apply fertilizers. Feeding must be resumed during the growth period of the peduncle. When the orchid blooms, it will not need additional nutrients, so fertilizing should be stopped.
From time to time Cattleya needs a warm shower.
It is convenient to feed the plant with special complex fertilizers for orchids. They need to be diluted according to the instructions and added to the substrate an hour after watering. Fertilizer application schedule: once every two weeks.
Cattleyas also respond very well to foliar feeding. For this purpose, a solution is prepared (its concentration should be half that specified in the instructions), which is used to wipe the sheet plates. This procedure can be carried out once a week during the period of active growth.
Table: how the Cattleya orchid reacts to the grower’s mistakes
| What does the plant look like? | What is the reason? |
| The peduncle dries before it has time to release buds. | Cattleya does not have enough moisture, light or fertilizing is applied too rarely. |
| Leaves and pseudobulbs turn yellow. | The plant received sunburn. |
| The leaves change color to dark green, become softer, and droop. | The orchid does not have enough light. |
| The tips and edges of the leaves turn brown and dry out. | The room is too hot. |
| Peduncles do not develop, only new shoots appear. | Either the orchid is too young to bloom (3 pseudobulbs or less) or the plant is not watered correctly. |
| The bases of the pseudobulbs turn black, as if they are getting wet. | The development of rot is most often associated with excessive watering. The situation is aggravated by low temperatures and/or cold drafts. |
The Cattleya orchid reacts to unsuitable conditions and care by deteriorating its appearance.
Problems, pests and answers to questions
The most common problem: root rot. This is a consequence of a violation of the watering regime. The flower must be removed from the pot, all infected roots must be carefully removed, all cuts must be sprinkled with charcoal and it must be replanted in fresh substrate. Can be treated with an antifungal drug.
Pests that attack cattleya are aphids, spider mites and scale insects. You can get rid of them using insecticides.
- What to do if the peduncle has dried up? There may be three reasons: lack of moisture, lighting or fertilizer. You need to find out experimentally.
- What to do if the soil is covered with a white coating? Smell it after watering. If there is a mushroom smell, then it is a fungal infection. The sustrate needs to be replaced.
- The leaves are turning yellow, what should I do? The light is too bright.
- The leaves have become dark green and soft, and the plant has become taller? Insufficient lighting.
- Do young sprouts have dry leaves around the edges? Temperature too high. You need to move the pot to a cooler place.
- If the roots have died, resuscitation will help. You can try a root growth stimulator, but this does not always help. You can leave the plant without watering for two weeks, and most importantly, without spraying. In search of moisture and nutrition, the cattleya will be forced to release fresh roots. Although the recovery process may take a long time. Sometimes you just need to leave it for a while, reducing watering to a minimum.
If you follow all the rules of care and choose the right varieties, the queen of orchids will decorate your home with bright colors and bring great aesthetic pleasure.
Table: diseases and pests of the Cattleya orchid
| Disease or pest | How does it manifest? | Treatment |
| Root rot |
|
|
| Gray rot |
|
|
| Mosaic disease | leaves covered with yellowish spots in the form of concentric circles or thin stripes | Destruction of the plant (it cannot be cured). |
| Mealybug |
|
|
| Shchitovka | Brown or grayish "growths". |
|
| Thrips | Small black dots and brownish spots on the leaves. |
|
What diseases and pests will you have to fight when growing cattleyas - photo
Root rot completely destroys the orchid's root system
Leaves and pseudobulbs affected by gray rot seem to become wet from the inside
There are no folk remedies or chemicals that destroy the mosaic disease virus yet
Simultaneously with the appearance of the mealybug, the orchid leaves become sticky
The durable shell of the scale insect protects it from many insecticides and any folk remedies
Small black dots and brownish spots on the leaves are signs of thrips.
Description history
In 1817, botanist William Swanson discovered a new species of orchid in the province of Pernambuco in northern Brazil . The plants were sent to the Glasgow Botanic Garden.
At Swanson's request, the Botanical Garden donated several plants to the famous tropical plant enthusiast William Cattleya. In November 1818, he achieved the flowering of one specimen in his own greenhouse in Barnet (England).
To systematize and describe the collection, William Cattley recruited botanist John Lindley .
In 1821, Lindley's Anthology of Botany (Collectanea Botanica) was published, describing a new genus and a new species. John Lindley named the new genus Cattleya in honor of the plant's owner. The species was named Cattleya labiata .
As it turned out later, Cattleya labiata was not the first species of Cattleya discovered by Europeans.
44 years earlier than the discovery of Cattleya labiata, two Spanish botanists, , sent their herbarium collections from Peru to Spain in 1777 But they were dismantled only in 1831, when John Lindley examined them and described a new species of the genus - Cattleya major .
The third species was discovered in 1836 in Venezuela by George Green . In 1836, William Jackson Hooker, a professor at the University of Glasgow, received several flowers and a drawing of a cattleya from an acquaintance of George Green, Mrs. Moss from Otterpool. Hooker named the plant Cattleya mossiae , in honor of its owner.
How to save an orchid that has lost its roots - secrets of resuscitation
Immerse the bases of the pseudobulbs in water at room temperature for 2 hours every day. When growth buds appear, stop the procedure. Plant an orchid that has grown at least 3 roots 5–6 cm long in a mixture of finely chopped moss and pine bark with pieces of charcoal. The pot should be tall and narrow. The easiest time to “save” a plant is from early spring to mid-autumn. At this time, there is suitable lighting and a fairly high temperature.
Do not rush to throw away a Cattleya orchid that has lost its roots
You can place the damaged Cattleya orchid in a mini-greenhouse, providing a temperature of about 25 ºС and bright, diffused light. A layer of drainage is placed on the bottom, and crushed sphagnum moss is placed on top.
Some gardeners recommend “shock therapy”. Leave the plant without watering or spraying for several weeks. In search of moisture, it should theoretically send out roots.
Resuscitation of a plant: how to grow roots?
With root rot, from old age or due to improper care, Cattleya is often left without roots, in which case urgent resuscitation of the plant is necessary. In such a difficult period for an orchid, it is necessary to create all the conditions so that it grows a new root system.
Soaking in water
The easiest way to resuscitate an orchid is to soak Cattleya in water. The procedure must be carried out daily in the morning.
- Place the orchid in a vessel and pour water until only the rhizome is in it.
- Leave for 1-2 hours and then drain the liquid. The duration of such resuscitation can vary from one month to a year.
- After new roots grow up to 5 cm, transplant the orchid into a pot with a substrate of bark and sphagnum moss.
The easiest way to resuscitate an orchid is to soak it in water.
Placement in a greenhouse
- Prepare a shallow bowl and a clear plastic lid to build a makeshift greenhouse.
- Place a small layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the bowl, and place wet sphagnum moss on top.
- Powder the bottom of Cattleya without roots with Kornevin.
- Place the plant on damp moss, close the lid and place the greenhouse in a sunny and warm place with a temperature of 25–27 degrees.
- Ventilate the greenhouse daily and wipe off condensation from the walls of the lid. When the moss dries, moisten it with water. Periodically check the contact points between the orchid and the moss. If you notice darkening, remove the plant and dry it.
- In about two weeks, Cattleya will have roots. As soon as they reach 3–4 cm in length, the orchid can be planted in the ground and cared for in the usual manner for a healthy plant.
The greenhouse allows you to maintain moist conditions necessary for the formation of new roots
How does a flower reproduce?
At home, the only way to get a new Cattleya orchid is by dividing an adult plant. The procedure is carried out simultaneously with the transplant; the selected specimen must have at least six pseudobulbs.
The division of the Cattleya orchid is carried out in such a way as to cause minimal damage to the plant.
- Remove the flower from the pot and place the earthen ball in a container of water for half an hour.
- Carefully rinse the substrate, untangle the roots (directly in water), cut off the dried and rotted ones.
- Using a sharp knife, divide the rhizome so that each part has at least 3 pseudobulbs and a growing point. Be sure to disinfect the tool before use and sprinkle the cuts made with crushed chalk, colloidal sulfur, activated carbon powder, or at least cinnamon.
- Plant the plants in small pots, preferably transparent. This makes it easier to notice the development of rot in time. A drainage layer is required. The substrate is moss and pieces of bark.
- Place in partial shade for 3-4 days, do not water. Ensure the temperature is about 25ºC and free of drafts. Then care is usual.
Reproduction
At home, cattleyas are propagated by dividing an overgrown bush. To obtain adult orchids ready for flowering after division, at least 4 large pseudobulbs with living leaves must be left on each division. Before dividing the bush, water the cattleya well and carefully remove it from the pot. The bush is divided by cutting the rhizome. After this, carefully separate the total mass of roots and substrate, trying to injure the living roots as little as possible. Sections on the rhizome are treated with brilliant green to prevent bacterial and fungal infection. The resulting plants are planted in separate pots, adding fresh substrate and without deepening the rhizome. Before planting, it is advisable to make holes in the side walls of the pots for ventilation, and pour large pieces of polystyrene foam into the bottom for drainage. The transplanted plants are placed in the shade and not watered for the first 10-14 days - only lightly spray the upper part of the substrate so that the damaged roots have time to dry and do not rot.
Care and care
Caring for a cattleya at home is not an easy task, and only by understanding the intricacies of this skill can you achieve success in this field.
Cattleya Hybrid flower and how to care for this species.
Hybrid Cattleya Orchids require careful care at home, because they are specially bred to please the eye with magnificent flowering in a home atmosphere. The south and south-east window sill will be ideal for this view, but a hot day will still require you to add a little shade so as not to overheat the beauty.
Light
Slightly diffused translucent light is ideal for this type of orchid. It would be best to place the plant on the windowsill of a sunny window or in a greenhouse. Based on the structure of the flower, we can conclude that Cattleya loves fresh air. If daylight hours are short, it is worth installing artificial lighting.
Important! Despite the Cattleya orchid's love of fresh air, completely eliminate drafts.
Temperature
In the summer, you should adhere to the regime of 24-26 degrees, in winter, 12-15 degrees. Like other species, cattleya flowers require daily temperature changes in the range of 5 to 7 degrees, providing this, you can achieve persistent and magnificent flowering.
Air humidity
A tropical plant is not able to fully develop at a humidity of less than 60%, so you should adhere to this value. Regular moistening of the tray in combination with the correct creation of the substrate will easily solve this issue.
Important! Cattleya absorbs moisture from the air, so humidity is one of the most important indicators.
Soil and nutrient media
You can easily purchase ready-made substrates at a flower shop, but experienced flower growers will still prefer to create their own soil for their favorite plant.
You can use mixtures of moss, peat, crushed pine bark, and charcoal is also added. The proportions must be equal.
Important! The substrate must be loose, since good air access is very important for this type of plant!
Fertilization processes should be activated during the formation of pseudobulbs, and when growth stops, stop, resuming when the peduncle is activated. This will ensure that your cattleya blooms vigorously.
Cattleya varieties with photos and names
Cattleya is a very spectacular plant that can decorate any room. At the same time, both those varieties and species that were born thanks to breeders, as well as natural ones, are very beautiful. Today, there are more than 1 thousand different varieties of Cattleya; those that are most popular among gardeners will be described below:
Cattleya bicolor
The height of the plant varies from 0.3 to 0.6 m, while the flowers reach about 10 centimeters in diameter. The flowers are painted in a reddish-brown color, the lip is purple with an edge of a lighter shade. Flowering is observed in autumn and winter.
Cattleya bowringiana
The bush has a height of about 0.7 m, and the flower reaches up to 70 mm in diameter. It is colored purple-pink, with a yellow spot on the purple lip. Blooms in autumn and winter.
Cattleya trianaei
The height of the bush is approximately 0.5 m, and the diameter of the flower is about 20 centimeters. The flowers are painted in a pinkish-white shade, while the rich crimson lip has a white border. Flowering begins in winter or spring.
Landing
The most important thing for planting is to use bark and sphagnum moss as a substrate .
First, the components need to be soaked for several days. This is done for better moisture retention. Then all the ingredients are crushed and polystyrene foam and perlite are added to the mixture. Cattleya should not be replanted unnecessarily, because the plant does not tolerate planting and handling well. She only needs this procedure when the potty becomes crowded. If you do not replant it at this moment, the orchid may die. The best time for replanting is spring, when shoots on the bulbs begin to form.
Landing is carried out in the following order:
- First you need to prepare a florarium.
- Place a small layer of stones on the bottom.
- Add crushed bark as a second layer.
- Place a thin layer of sphagnum moss.
- Only now place the orchid, lay out a layer of substrate and secure with thin sticks.
Cattleya can also be grown in a pot, but you need to choose it carefully. You should not buy small pots to avoid frequent replanting of the plant. You need to pay attention to ventilation. An orchid loves air and can die if there is not enough air. It is better to opt for ceramic or plastic flower pots.
