How to care for campanula and what you need to protect the “bride and groom” from

"Home" types of bells

Usually on our window sills and balconies there are subspecies of Campanula equifolia: “Alba” and “Maya”. “Alba” has white inflorescences, for which people call it “the bride.” “Maya” has blue ones, she is called “groom”. But there are also bicolor plants - “Bicolor”, popularly known as “lover”. But in fact, sometimes there are other varieties of campanula, for example: “Karpatskaya”, “Terry”, “Blauranka”. The table shows the distinctive features of the most common plant varieties.

Table - Varieties of “domesticated” campanula

A huge number of hybrid varieties of Campanula have been bred; only professional gardeners can distinguish them from each other.

Description

The homeland of Campanula is the Mediterranean.
It is distributed throughout Europe and Asia. The flower grows well in the steppe, forest plantations, meadows and rocky plateaus. The shape of the flower (white, blue, blue or white) resembles a 5-petal bell, the diameter of which is about 4 cm; the plant can reach 50 cm in height. The shape of the leaf blades is heart-shaped, up to 7 cm long, the petioles are long.

Characterized by decorativeness and durability, grown as a 1-, 2-, or perennial.

The variety with blue and white flowers (“Bride and Groom”) is known as “flowers of family happiness.” There is a sign that if such a houseplant is given to newlyweds, there will always be agreement between them, and there will be happiness and prosperity in their home.

It is believed that a girl caring for a campanula will meet her betrothed, and an elderly man will live in peace and serenity. The flower brings warmth and comfort to the house, has a positive effect on the microclimate of the home, material well-being and stimulates the creativity of its owner.

Rules for caring for Campanula

In general, the bell is a very unpretentious plant, and even a novice gardener or a person who is not at all knowledgeable in this matter can master growing campanula at home.

Light

Campanula loves light, but it must be diffused. That is, the lighting should be bright, but without direct sunlight. In the garden or on the balcony, choose a place where there is always shade. In an apartment, place the plant on the window sills of windows facing east and west. If your windows face south, then it is better to place a pot of campanula mix in a flowerpot or place it on a special rack.

Direct sunlight causes the plant to “stretch” its leaves, and the inflorescences, on the contrary, become rarer and smaller. In addition, Campanella Port Blue “stretches” towards the sun, which affects the shape of the flower. But you shouldn’t radically turn the pot with different sides to the luminary, trying to straighten the stems, as this will only cause harm - the plant will turn out to be chaotically twisted and shapeless. Take your time and turn the plant gradually.

Temperature

Campanula loves coolness, but can hardly tolerate heat. Optimal temperature for the plant:

• in summer - 23(±2)°C, but not higher. If your climate is hot, then the plant will do better in a room with air conditioning, but place it so that cold air does not blow on it;
• in winter - approximately 13(±2)°C. The flower “suffers” from excessive heat, the leaves dry out, and in the spring you may not wait for flowering or it will be sparse.

During the heating season, it is better to remove the campanula from the windowsill under which the radiator is located. Also, in winter you should not place the plant near heating appliances and gas stoves.

Humidity

This point is not important for the campanula. You won’t have to fuss with trays, spray water from a spray bottle, trying to humidify the air, and you won’t need any other “dancing” around the flower.

Spraying is carried out only in extreme heat or during the heating season, if the plant is located near a radiator. Spray water only from below, on the soil and leaves. If drops fall on the inflorescences, unsightly brown spots will appear.

Lure

But this is a very important moment for the flower. In the active phase (from March to September), rapid flowering “extracts” all the strength from the “bride and groom”. During such a stressful period, the plant needs help.

You can feed Campanula with any store-bought fertilizer for decorative flowering indoor plants. Only the dosage needs to be reduced by half from that recommended by the manufacturer. It is optimal to carry out the procedure three times a month.

Pot

The campanula root system grows rapidly and quite quickly occupies the entire space of the pot. And then the plant dries out its buds - this is a sure sign that it is “crowded” and lacks nutrients. Therefore, immediately after purchase, it is better to transplant the campanula into a spacious “dwelling” - a low and wide pot.

Transfer

Campanula is not a perennial plant. And it needs to be replanted only if the old pot has become too small and obvious signs of “starvation” are observed: the leaves turn yellow, fall off, the buds dry out, and the flowering fades.

Campanula loves loose, “porous” soil. The best option is a mixture of peat soil, humus and sand in equal parts. But a universal store-bought composition for ornamental flowering plants will also work. The ideal time to plant campanula is spring and autumn. If you decide, then follow these five steps.

1. Pick a pot. First, find a suitable size pot for the plant. It should be about twice as large as the previous one.
2. Install drainage. At the bottom of the new pot you need to pour fresh drainage, 2 cm thick.
3. Add soil. Pour soil onto the drainage, but not to the edges of the pot. Half the depth of the flowerpot is enough.
4. Set flower. Move the plant along with a piece of old soil on the roots in the center of the container and not too deep - about 2 cm below the intended soil boundary. Make sure that the stems look up and do not fall to one side.
5. Cover with soil. Top with fresh soil. Lightly press the soil with your fingers - it needs to be compacted a little.

The last stage of replanting is watering. There is no need to immediately flood the plant too much - the soil should be moist, but not soft. And you don't need to feed either. Apply root feeding after two to three weeks, when the plant has finally taken root and become stronger.

Watering

Caring for the “bride and groom” flower does not require abundant watering. The main thing is that the soil does not dry out and is always moist, but not wet. And also make sure that water does not accumulate in the pan; pour it out, otherwise the roots will rot. And the frequency of watering depends on the time of year.

• In summer. At this time of year it is quite hot, plus the plant blooms intensively. You may need to water the campanula every day, it all depends on the climate and the size of the plant itself.
• In winter. During the dormant period, Campanula can be watered once every two weeks. The plant can survive without water for up to 20 days. Just check the soil occasionally and moisten as soon as you notice that the soil is dry.
• In the off-season. In autumn, it is enough to water the plant twice a week. In spring, start daily watering in small portions in March.

Campanula does not like chlorine, so the water must be left for two to three days before watering, plus it must be warm. If you don’t have time, clean the liquid using a household filter.

Rest period

September-October is the period when the bell has finished vigorous flowering, the plant is tired and exhausted. How to care for campanula after flowering, so that next spring the flower has the strength for another “enchanting” season?

• The beginning of November. First of all, you need to remove everything that the plant will spend juices on in winter, instead of accumulating strength: dry inflorescences, stems, leaves. “Cleanliness” will need to be maintained throughout the rest period.
• December. Time to prune the campanula. Cut off all the shoots, but not at the root, leave a length of about ten centimeters.
• March. By this time the shoots will have grown, cut them off at a distance of 5 cm from the ground.
• Watering. Two or three times a month, watch as the soil dries out.
• Light. It is better for the plant to “overwinter” in a well-lit place, but protected from direct sunlight.
• Temperature. Do not place the campanula near heating radiators, but also do not take it out onto a cold balcony.
• Feeding. No rest required.

And spring is the right time to propagate Campanula to the desired number of plants.

How to propagate bluebell

Let us repeat, campanula is not a perennial. The average lifespan of a plant is two years, sometimes a little more. If you don’t want to say goodbye to the “shooting star” a couple of years after purchase, multiply it. You have several methods to choose from:

• cuttings;
• dividing the bush;
• seeds.

Interesting fact: sometimes both the “groom” and the “bride” are planted in one large flowerpot. As the bushes grow, white and blue inflorescences intertwine and it looks very interesting. But if you decide to do such an experiment, divide the pot in half with a partition so that the roots of the plants do not “meet”. Otherwise, you risk losing your “groom”. The “bride” is more powerful and develops faster - over time it will “strangle” the neighboring flower.

Cuttings

When you do spring pruning, pinch off a cutting with a heel from the mother plant. That is, you need to tear off the young shoot at the very bottom so that part of the skin and core of the mother stem remains on it. There should also be two or three leaves at the bottom of the cutting. To root Campanula using cuttings, follow five steps.

1. Water procedures. Immerse the shoot in a glass with a weak solution of potassium permanganate for about seven to eight hours. There is no need to completely immerse it, just “dip” the cut area and a couple of centimeters from above.
2. Stimulant treatment. Before planting in the ground, you can treat the shoot with a growth stimulant. According to reviews, after this treatment, campanula grows stronger and blooms more actively.
3. Disembarkation. Deepen the shoot into the ground by about 3 cm.
4. Greenhouse conditions. Cover the pot with plastic wrap or a large glass jar if the pot is small. To prevent the plant from rotting, it must be ventilated daily. Place the pot in a cool place.
5. Spraying. Once a week, spray the shoot with warm filtered water.

After three weeks, the film can already be kept slightly open, and after another week the pot can be placed on the windowsill. Do not forget that campanula should be protected from direct sun. And when the shoots grow to 10-12 cm, pinch the tops - this will make your plant more lush.

Dividing the bush

Campanula can be propagated in this way directly when replanting the plant. It is better to do this in spring or at the very beginning of summer. Here are the instructions in seven steps.

1. Remove the bush along with a lump of old soil.
2. Divide it into several parts - simply cut the roots with a sharp knife.
3. The divisions should not be too small.
4. Place each piece in its own pot. Don't forget to put drainage on the bottom.
5. Deepen the plant 2-3 cm into the soil.
6. Add the required amount of soil on top and tamp lightly.
7. Water the plant.

And after a week you can introduce the first complementary foods to the plant. Do not forget that the manufacturer's recommended dosage should be halved.

Seeds

Campanula is propagated by seeds in the spring, in early March. This is if you already have a mother plant. Or buy seeds at the store. So, in the fall, when the bell has faded, look for miniature boxes on the stems - there are seeds there. But do not tear off the box - let it remain on the plant, it will burst on its own when the seeds “ripe”. Campanula seeds are very small, more like dust, and if you are careless they can even be blown away. Then follow the six-step instructions.

1. Carefully open the “house”.
2. Prepare a clean container and suitable soil.
3. If possible, spread the seeds evenly across the ground.
4. There is no need to deepen the seeds. Just sprinkle them with a little soil or sand.
5. Spray the soil with a spray bottle.
6. Cover the seedlings with film and ventilate daily.

Do not water the soil under any circumstances; excess moisture will cause the seeds to rot and not germinate. Place the container with the seeds in a well-lit, cool place. It could be a window sill, but there should be no drafts or direct sun. You should not place the container next to radiators. And when the seedlings grow to three or four leaves, they can be planted in separate containers.

How to properly care for indoor campanula

Ecology of consumption. Estate: Campanula or, as it is also called, bellflower, is one of the most popular and unpretentious indoor plants...

Campanula or, as it is also called , bell is one of the most popular and unpretentious indoor plants . The birthplace of this flower is Italy.

Companula blooms from spring to autumn. Campanula is a low herbaceous hanging plant with thin hanging or creeping shoots on which there are small rounded leaves with a jagged edge.

Bright white or blue flowers stand out among the green foliage. Popularly, plants with blue flowers are called “grooms”, and those with white flowers are called “brides”.

To get a lush bush strewn with flowers, you cannot lift the shoots up, they must go down.

Currently, forms with double flowers have been developed.

blooms for a long time (from June to September) and very abundantly.

There are hybrids with two-color shades of star flowers.

During the flowering period, usually in summer, the plant is completely covered with scatterings of white, purple or blue star flowers, for this cascade of flowers the campanula is called “Shooting Stars”. The flowers are collected at the ends of the shoots, many of them bloom at once, and for abundant and long-lasting flowering it is necessary to promptly remove the faded ones.

The bell "Bride and Groom" does not require care, grows quickly and blooms profusely. Can be grown outdoors in light shade in summer.

Lighting. Bright but diffused light, shading from direct sun on a south window. East or west windows are best. From January, when the days begin to lengthen, the scanty winter sun for Campanula is enough to bloom.

If there is too little light, the shoots stretch, the distance between the leaves increases, and the decorative effect is lost.

Watering and air humidity. Water abundantly in spring and summer during the period of growth and flowering, the soil should be moist. In autumn, watering is reduced; in winter, watering is very rare.

Campanula is afraid of stagnation of water in the pot and tray, which leads to silting of the soil. In this case, the root system of the flower is affected by rot in just a few days, which leads to its inevitable death. It is for this reason that after each watering the soil in the flowerpot should be loosened , ensuring air access to the horses, and excess moisture from the pan should be immediately drained.

It is better to water in the morning so that the earthen lump has time to dry out before the next watering. It is advisable to use slightly warmed water.

Campanula is not demanding on air humidity, does not require special air humidification and easily adapts to any conditions.

Temperature. Moderate, more than 22 degrees is not advisable. In winter it is cool, about 12-14°C. Can be grown outdoors in light shade in summer.

Care after flowering. As soon as the flowering period comes to an end, the plant needs to create conditions for proper rest. The upper parts of the shoots usually have time to dry out by this time, so they can be cut off. New flower buds will subsequently develop from the lower parts, so it is not advisable to touch them.

As a rule, shoots are pruned at the end of winter or spring, leaving 2-3 dormant buds. When they grow 10-12 cm, carefully pinch the growing point, then the side branches will begin to grow, and accordingly, there will be more flowers.

Rest period. With the onset of short autumn days, the growth of campanula stops, but the plant does not die off completely. The need for watering is also reduced. It is advisable to trim long stems and move the plant to a cool room. The plant needs to be watered rarely (1-2 times a month). Winter temperature is 10-15 degrees.

Fertilizer. From March to August, during the period of growth of new shoots and flowering, they are fed with fertilizer for indoor ornamental flowering plants, once every 2-3 weeks.

Transfer. You can replant in the spring, but since the plant does not have a long life span, you can simply plant new cuttings in early spring.

The soil. Under natural conditions it grows on rocky soil; it does not make any special demands on the nutritional value of the soil, but the roots must breathe. It is better to use loose soil. You can use a mixture of turf, leaf, humus, peat soil and sand.

With the onset of spring, you need to trim off dried shoots and gradually increase watering.

The life span of the plant is short; after a year or two the plant needs to be renewed.

Reproduction of Campanula

Propagated by seeds and cuttings in spring.

Campanula seeds are very small and can be sown in early spring. No need to water, just spray.

In early spring, when young shoots reach a length of 10-20 cm, carefully cut them off “with the heel” and immediately place them in water or plant them in an earthen mixture (in a mixture of sand and peat). Pour phytosporin solution and place in a greenhouse.

The optimal temperature for rooting is 12-13°C. Provide daily ventilation. After three weeks, begin to gradually open the greenhouse, and after another week you can place the rooted cuttings on the windowsill, where the cuttings quickly begin to grow. They do not need watering; regular spraying is sufficient. But excessive moisture can lead to rotting.

When the plants grow to 10-12 cm, you can carefully pinch the growing point, then the side branches will begin to grow and the bush will be more branched and lush, and the flowering will be more abundant.

The home flower can be propagated by dividing the bush. If the plant has grown greatly, then in the spring we carefully remove the flower from the pot and carefully divide the plant into parts, while trying to preserve an earthen lump on the roots. You can simply cut the earthen lump with a sharp knife. Do not divide the plant into too small parts; when replanting, try not to bury the plant.

If you want to plant plants with white and blue flowers in one pot, you will need a partition in an earthen coma. Otherwise, the more active “bride” will survive the “groom”.

Diseases and pests. The greatest damage is caused by scale insects and spider mites. Too high humidity can cause gray rot. published

PS And remember, just by changing your consumption, we are changing the world together! © econet

Pests

Typically, indoor flowers are affected by two pests: spider mites and scale insects. If you notice a parasite on at least one plant, there is a high risk of infecting all “neighbors”. Immediately isolate the diseased plant and immediately begin the fight against the “enemy”.

Spider mite

If you notice “cobwebs” between the base of the leaves and the stem, this is a reason to think about it. Inspect the inside of the leaves, if you notice something similar to stuck soil - poke the “dirty” area with a thin needle or toothpick. It turned out to be not dirt at all, but tiny brown bugs that rushed in all directions? This is the spider mite. First, break off all the infected leaves, this way you will already get rid of a large number of pests. What to do next is described in the table.

Table - Methods for controlling spider mites

Traditional methods (alcohol, soap, onions, garlic) can only destroy adult beetles, but eggs will also remain. Therefore, carefully monitor the plant - the treatment will need to be repeated as soon as you see the “enemy” again.

Shchitovka

This insect is similar to an aphid, only flat and with a shell. It is because of this that the pest got its name - the shell protects its “owner” like a shield. Often scale insects accumulate in the places where leaves join the stem, where you can notice a certain “plaque” of insects. The scale insect feeds on the sap of the plant and at the initial stage, dark spots appear in the places where the parasite has attached, then the leaves curl and fall off. Another sure sign of infection is sticky drops appearing on the plant. This is the so-called honeydew, it is secreted by insects.

First of all, you need to mechanically remove parasites from the leaves and stems. Dip a soft toothbrush or cotton swab in vodka or insecticidal solution and clean off the bugs. And then choose: the table describes the most popular methods of pest control.

Table - Methods for combating scale insects

Problems and diseases

In addition to parasites, other misfortunes can happen to a plant. For example, leaves suddenly begin to shrink and fall off or rot appears. Let's look at the main “diseases” of campanula and the causes of their occurrence.

• Gray rot. Areas appear on the plant covered with a “shaggy” grayish coating, reminiscent of mold. Under the plaque, the process of rotting begins. It's a fungus. Causes: excessive watering and high humidity. Isolate the plant and remove affected leaves and stems. Place the pot where the humidity is lower and reduce watering.
• The leaves are turning yellow. Most likely, the plant is exposed to direct sunlight or not enough moisture. Move the campanula to a cooler place, spray it, add water in small portions, but every day.
• Leaves are limp. Weak, lifelessly hanging leaves are a sign that watering is too abundant. Do not allow water to stagnate in the pan; water frequently, but only to moisten the soil and not to spill it.
• The stems are thin and weak. Little light. Find a brighter place, but avoid direct sunlight.
• Doesn't bloom. Campanula stops blooming when the plant lacks light or nutrition. Or perhaps your bell is already old and has simply stopped its life cycle. If the campanula is young, then it needs to be moved to a well-lit place and fed three times a month.
• The plant is withering. There can be many reasons: little light, little moisture, drafts, insufficient complementary foods, pests, rot. Analyze the care, find errors and correct them. If the plant is attacked by parasites, see the tables above.

These are the basic tips on how to care for your campanula so that it doesn’t get sick and blooms profusely. While admiring the “shooting stars,” don’t forget to look under the leaves, feel the soil, and check for pests. Show a little more attention - this will allow you to eliminate problems in a timely manner, then the campanula will “thank” you with vigorous and long-lasting flowering.

Types and varieties

Campanula gemina

Campanula gemina

The variety was obtained by crossing Campanula Spoon-leaved and Carpathian. The leaf blades are round, the stems are thin and flexible, the flowers are of various shades of white and purple, an ampelous plant.

Campanula glomerata

Campanula glomerata

The bush is loose and erect. The dark green leaf blades at the base of the stem have an elongated heart-shaped shape; the leaves on the stem are wide, lanceolate, and the plant is pubescent. Flowers are collected in twisted heads at the end of the stem, in the axils of the upper leaf blades.

Campanula blauranke

Campanula blauranke

A variety of Campanula Pozharsky. The height of the bush is up to 20 cm, but the plant is distinguished by large light blue flowers and leaf blades.

Carpathian Campanula (Campanula carpática)

Carpathian Campanula (Campanula carpática)

The bush reaches a height of 30 cm. The shape of the leaf blades is ovoid, the leaves form a basal rosette. The flowers are lilac-blue, about 5 cm in diameter, bloom all summer.

Campanula isophylla

Campanula isophylla

Indoor plants of this variety are called “bride and groom”. The hybrid "Mayi" produces blue flowers, "Alba" produces white flowers. The shoots are thin, creeping, their length can be 25 cm, heart-shaped leaf blades sit on long petioles. Blooms in summer. Star-shaped flowers in shades of white, purple and white bloom at the ends of the stems.

Campanula mix

Campanula mix

These are plants of the same variety, characterized by different shades of flowers.