Tuberous begonia: planting and care at home, cultivation

When gardeners choose tuberous begonias, they first of all pay attention to terry Tubergybrids with large corollas. Among them there are similar ones to roses, camellias, and carnations. It is the latter, with fringed carved petals and densely packed flowers, that are known as Begonia Fimbriata. This is not the easiest to maintain, but it is a very beautiful, versatile hybrid: it can be grown at home in a pot, in a flower bed, suitable for balcony boxes or hanging baskets.

Description and features of begonia

A large number of tuberous hybrids have now been developed. They have differences, but there are five features that are characteristic of this type of begonia:

  • The root is an underground tuber (5-6 cm).
  • The stem is thick, 25 cm high, 80 cm long.
  • The leaves are dark or light green, glossy and fleecy. Heart-shaped. Arranged alternately and asymmetrically.
  • The flowers are varied, from simple to double, red, white, yellow and other colors. Single-colored, bordered, small or large, solitary or in inflorescences.
  • The fruit with seeds is a 1 cm box containing almost 1 thousand small seeds.

Tuberous begonias grow equally well in open ground, at home and on the balcony.

The tuber, which accumulates all the substances necessary for the life of the flower, helps it in any conditions.

Begonia Yellow: description of varieties and their cultivation

Yellow Begonia fimbriata is a semi-bush plant, reaching a height of about 45 cm, which has naturally received a thickened short rhizome and well-developed recumbent shoots.
Hairs can be seen on the petioles of the plant, its leaves grow up to 20 cm, their width can be 15 cm. They have an oval shape, small teeth along the edge, dark green color, purple underneath with slight pubescence. Begonia Cascade Yellow is ideal for growing in hanging baskets and can decorate any room. The length of the shoots of the Cascade Yellow flower often reaches 30 cm, the height of the bushes can be about 20 cm. Cascade Begonia is distinguished by its characteristic abundant flowering and yellow color of flowers. No less magical and beautiful is the yellow and red Pikoti begonia.

It invariably attracts the attention of others and amazes with its delicious aroma. Begonia Pikoti, yellow and somewhat red, blooms from May to October. The diameter of each flower is up to 20 cm, and the height of the plant itself is no more than 40 cm. Begonia Pikoti of warm shades is traditionally grown by connoisseurs in regular and hanging pots, on hills.

Begonia ampelous Pendula Yellow often grows not only in apartments and houses, but is also used by florists to decorate wedding celebrations. The Pendula begonia flower consists of about 10 petals that gently frame the middle. Pendula begonia flowers have a yellow color and large leaves. The leaves and flowers of Pendula begonia have almost the same size - from 10 to 20 cm, the stems are up to 25 cm long.

Chanson yellow, or rather vanilla yellow, is an annual plant with double and semi-double flowers. Begonia Chanson has about 5 - 8 main shoots, and in the axils of each leaf there are long peduncles. The peduncles of tuberous begonia Chanson produce flowers of regular shape, the diameter of which is usually 6–8 cm.

Main varieties of begonia

There are many types and varieties of tuberous begonias.

They can be divided according to their features:

TypeDescriptionLeaves Bloom
EverbloomingHerbaceous perennial with a height of up to 36 cm depending on the variety. In the summer they are planted in the garden, in the winter they are placed at home. Round green or burgundy. White, yellow, pink, coral. Terry or simple.

Most of the year.

CoralHeight - slightly less than 1 m. Unpretentious in home care.Elongated, jagged. They are distinguished by matte finish and light speckles. Red shades. Collected in inflorescences resembling corals.

Early spring - first frosts.

DeciduousDecorative indoor plant with drooping stems. Very capricious. Not grown outdoors. Unusual colors: various contrasting patterns, spots, silver and pearlescent tints. Small nondescript ones.

Often absent.

TypeVarietiesFlowers
ErectDark RedLarge, dark red, like a rose.
Double yellowLarge yellow double ones.
Party DressReminiscent of the original huge carnations on a small bush.
CamelliaCamel-shaped.
Camellia FloraPeony-shaped, waxy, pale pink with a snow-white border.
Crispa White-redThey look like a large carnation, white with a burgundy or scarlet border.
Picoti Lace ApricotTerry, corrugated, apricot color, very large.
SambaPastel colors of various shades, reminiscent of carnations.
AmpelousChansonMedium, semi-double or double, two-tone, camellia-like, in a variety of colors.
ChristieWhite terry.
SutherlandSmall, simple sunny shades.
Pikoti CascadePeony-shaped.

Deciduous begonias

This type of begonia cannot boast of lush flowering, but it is also among gardeners' favorites. And all because of its extraordinary and original leaves, which seem to be painted with mesmerizing patterns and stripes. One of the lovely ones in this group are Rex begonias - they have pearl-pearl leaves with pink, dark green, red, and burgundy patterns. Such begonias are propagated using leaves or seeds.

Caring for tuberous begonia at home

Begonia is an easy flower to care for, and you can certainly grow a beautiful flowering plant if you follow a few growing rules.

Planting a begonia tuber in a pot

When purchasing tubers, follow the following recommendations:

  • The best time for this is the end of January - beginning of March.
  • Size - at least 3 cm, color - rich brown, without stains or damage.
  • The presence of buds, but not grown.


Planted at the very beginning of spring:

  • The container for planting is of medium size.
  • A drainage system made of expanded clay and small stones for 1/3 of the pot is required.
  • The soil is peat. When the buds grow to 5 cm, they are transplanted into begonia soil or substrate: sand, leaf soil, peat soil and humus (1: 1: 1: 1).
  • The rounded side of the tuber is immersed in the soil, and the concave side is placed upward without deepening so that the sprouts can breathe.
  • When rooting, add soil and cut off excess shoots. If the planting material does not exceed 5 cm, no more than 2-3 are enough.

By purchasing an adult plant, it is adapted to home conditions.

For a week or two, the flower is placed in the shade, without watering or fertilizing. They look for the presence of insects.

Planting tuberous begonia at home

Buying a begonia tuber

As a rule, gardeners buy or receive a begonia specimen in the form of a tuber (or part of a tuber).

If you buy the tuber yourself, pay attention to how it looks. Its size must be at least 3 cm in diameter. The main thing is that the tubers are dense (not overdried) and smooth, without suspicious spots or damage.

The tuber has a top and a bottom, sometimes it is difficult to distinguish them. On the upper part there are tubercles and irregularities - these are buds, growth points. The top of the tuber is more concave or flat, and the bottom is convex. Very large tubers can even be divided into 2-4 parts with a knife. The main thing is that each one has at least 3 buds - growth points.

Planting tubers in containers

At the end of February, the dormant period of tuberous begonias ends. This is clearly visible from the swelling and germination of the buds of tubers of adult begonias and the awakening of small nodules that overwintered in the previous pots (so as not to dry out). The best time for planting begonia tubers for germination is March - early April (depending on the readiness of the tuber and the time of its acquisition). There are some tubers that wake up only in April.

First of all, you need to fill the shallow, wide planting containers with soil mixture. The main requirement for it is nutritional value and friability. Begonias thrive in a soil mixture made up of loose compost, peat and sand. It is advisable to add a little wood ash. We do not fill the pot to the very top. Approximately 1/2 - 2/3 of its height or 7 - 8 cm below the top edge of the pot. After this, we compact the soil and water it with a solution of complex fertilizers for flowering plants.

While the substrate is saturated with moisture, we have time to start preparing the tubers for planting. Begonia tubers are covered like a fur coat with the remains of old roots. The upper part can be recognized by dormant buds and traces of the previous year's stems. If the buds are almost invisible, then the tuber is left in a bright place to speed up the appearance of the eyes. There is another way to avoid turning the tuber over when planting upside down. Its convex part should be in the ground, and its concave part should be on top.

We inspect the tubers again (they should not have any questionable flaws), after which we clean them of old roots and soil remaining from last year. At the slightest suspicion, we disinfect the peeled tubers in a pink solution of potassium permanganate or use another sanitary treatment option.

Some amateur gardeners plant tubers, which are first soaked in clean, warm water. Sometimes growth stimulants are used. They believe that this more actively awakens the tuber and accelerates the appearance of shoots. Unfortunately, such water procedures can result in tissue rotting.

If there are a lot of tubers, then we select the best, the strongest, the youngest, with a diameter of 5 - 6 cm. We plant the rest “in reserve”. Healthy large tubers can be divided into parts and subsequently used as full-fledged planting material. The main thing is to keep at least one viable bud on them. To do this, they are first germinated in containers filled with a mixture of peat and sand. As soon as shoots begin to appear, the tubers are taken out and divided into several parts. The cuts are sprinkled with crushed activated carbon or treated with brilliant green. They are given the opportunity to dry by leaving them for a day in a dry room at room temperature.

It is worth mentioning about old tubers, the age of which is approaching the age limit (five to six years). They are larger (8 - 9 cm) and have many buds. During its life, the shape of the tuber changed, becoming deformed, not even, but angular. Outgrowths and traces of past shoots have accumulated. It is better to divide such tubers into parts by waiting for the buds to swell in moist sphagnum or fabric.

After this, we lay the tubers on the soil in the planting container. So that the buds and the entire top remain uncovered with soil. Those. When planting tuberous begonias, we place the tuber on a moistened nutrient substrate, and then sprinkle it on all sides with soil mixture.

Ampelous forms do not like crowding, so it is better to plant just one tuber per pot or hanging basket. When planting those tuberous begonias that will later be planted in a flower garden, you can use individual peat pots or other temporary containers with a diameter of about 10 - 12 cm. Planting boxes are also suitable. Tubers are germinated in them, planted according to a 7 x 7 cm pattern or a little denser.

Ideal conditions for germination of tuberous begonia

Tuberous begonias (large-flowered, small-flowered and ampelous forms with hanging stems) can bloom from May to October. To do this, already at the stage of germination of tubers, they need to create ideal conditions.

Begonia does best in indirect sunlight. They are comfortable at air temperatures between 21 and 24°C, although at the stage of tuber awakening and the appearance of the first shoots, the air temperature should not be too high. Keep the soil (fertile, neutral or slightly acidic) moderately moist. If there is a lack of humidity in a dry and warm (day and night) room, begonia can curl its leaves to reduce the area of ​​evaporation. A simple technique such as spreading moistened sphagnum moss along the edge of the pot or spraying the air next to the begonia helps.

As soon as the begonias have leaves, the tubers can be completely covered with soil, avoiding the bases of the shoots becoming too deep. To be on the safe side, I sprinkle the “top” with sand or dust it with ash so that in a humid, rainy summer the tuber does not get soaked and rot.

After the shoots appear

We germinate the planted tubers in a bright place at an air temperature of about 18 - 20°C. Another necessary condition is shading from the bright sun. The soil in the container must be moistened so that it does not dry out. Begonias also do not like swamps in a pot and quickly rot.

In March we move those tubers that overwintered in the previous pots to a warm place (about 20°C) and begin to very carefully moisten the soil. As soon as the buds hatch, we move the containers with tubers closer to the light, protecting them from too bright sun. I like this method of wintering tuberous begonia less. I think that those plants whose tubers overwintered outside the previous pot feel better.

After about 3 weeks (sometimes earlier), fleshy shoots appear from the buds; after a month, their height is already about 2 - 3 cm. The roots grow first, which begin to absorb nutrients from the soil and feed the germinating tuber. Begonias are voracious, so they need a lot of food to bloom profusely.

The weakest shoots should be removed by sprinkling the wounds with wood ash or a tablet of activated carbon (pharmaceutical) crushed into powder. For large-flowered tuberous begonias we leave a maximum of three shoots, for small-flowered ones - up to five shoots. The number of shoots also depends on the size of the tuber. For young tubers (less than 5 cm), it is better not to leave more than three shoots.

During the period of growing tuberous begonia shoots in the house, it is important not to deplete the tubers, so feeding becomes of great importance. It is best to use complex organic fertilizers based on mullein. Begonias benefit from watering with a very weak solution of boric acid (without getting it on the tuber). We fertilize for the first time when the first bud appears.

From the beginning of May, we acclimate the tuberous begonia to open ground conditions. To do this, we take it to a place protected from the cold, especially from frost. For example, on a veranda, a glazed balcony or on a windowsill under an open window.

Temperature

For those species that bloom in winter, the best ambient temperature will be 13–21 degrees. However, in the case when the tubers of a flower are completely dormant in winter and its stems die off, the flower should be protected from frost.

Humidity

Begonias have no special preferences regarding air humidity. However, this plant still feels much better when it is tall.

Lighting Features

This flower loves bright light, but it is worth considering that direct sunlight can harm it. In this regard, it must be protected from them. Those species that bloom in winter need a lot of light during the period when buds form and flowering begins.

How to water correctly

This plant needs abundant watering throughout the entire flowering period. And when it runs out, you need to water only when necessary, but you should know that under no circumstances should the earthen clod be allowed to dry out.

It is necessary to gradually reduce the amount of watering for those plants that are dormant in winter, but only after their leaves begin to turn yellow. Begonia must be watered correctly. The fact is that if you overdry the earthen ball or, on the contrary, flood the plant too much, this will have an extremely negative impact on its condition.

Feeding the flower with a weak solution of mineral or specialized fertilizer should be done during budding and flowering.

Feeding

Quite often it is recommended to feed tuberous begonia only at the beginning of flowering twice a month with a complex for flowering plants. But even before flowering, especially with early planting, you can feed it once or twice with nitrogen fertilizer. The main thing is not to overdo it. Nitrogen stimulates leaf growth and inhibits flowering.

Begonia transplant

Transplantation is carried out mainly as needed. It mainly occurs due to lack of space in the pot. The plant is replanted, traditionally for all indoor plants, in the spring, but before the sprouts begin to develop. The optimal time for transplantation is early March. The tuber is removed from the old pot and cleaned. Be sure to inspect it for damage. Trim rotten and damaged roots. If the tuber itself is rotten, then carefully cut out the damaged area with a sharp knife and sprinkle the wound with crushed activated carbon. Before further planting, disinfect the begonia tuber by holding it in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 20-30 minutes. Begonia does not have any special requirements for soil composition. The ready-made mixture can be easily purchased at any flower shop or, if desired, you can make it yourself by mixing leaf soil, humus, peat, and sand in equal parts. Given the superficial location of the begonia’s roots, it is advisable to take a pot that is shallow but wide. When using a deep pot, the excess space must be filled with drainage (expanded clay).

Advice. Before the shoots sprout, it is better not to fill the tuber completely, but to add soil as the shoots grow. The same applies to tubers transplanted after germination in peat.

How to grow begonia from a tuber

Regardless of the specific variety, the technology for planting and growing begonia from a tuber is the same. It is important to pay attention to the processing of planting material, selection of soil and pot. Work begins in March, so that the plant will delight you with its lush flowers in May-June.

If you listen to useful tips on how to plant begonia as a tuber, then growing this beautiful plant at home will not be difficult.

Planting tuberous begonia - step-by-step instructions

  1. First of all, it is important to pay attention to the appearance of begonia tubers and their size. The diameter should be 3 cm or more. The tuber should be quite dense, its surface after cleaning should be smooth, without irregularities or defects. If it is too large, you can cut it in half and sprinkle charcoal on the cut area.
  2. Immediately before planting, the surface is completely cleaned of dirt and dead roots.
  3. Next, treat with any fungicide (for example, “Diskor”, “Maxim”) or a 1% solution of potassium permanganate (hold for half an hour).
  4. Select a pot from any material. It should be 15-25 cm deep and 2 times smaller in diameter. Any small stones or expanded clay (up to a third of the height) are placed at the bottom.
  5. Then they fill it almost to the top with soil, and in the middle it is necessary to make a small hole (a third of a finger).
  6. Then they begin to actually plant the begonia tubers. It is laid with the concave side up and the convex side towards the ground.
  7. Finally, you need to cover it with soil. Moreover, the upper third should remain above the soil surface - sometimes the sprouts can rot if the surface is completely covered.
  8. After planting, the pot should be immediately watered and placed in a warm place where the temperature will not drop below 22°C.

Watering should be done regularly so that the soil is always moderately moist. However, excess moisture is also harmful, and this should also be taken into account. The first shoots will appear after a week, and after a month there will be 2-3 large leaves on the shoot. And after another month, the begonia will give beautiful flowers.

Reproduction at home

In order to breed tuberous begonia, three main methods are used:

Tuber division

The division of the bulb is carried out with the onset of spring, when buds appear on it. Using a sharp knife, it should be cut so that there are growth points on each part. The cut areas must be treated using charcoal or brilliant green for this purpose. You need to plant it in a pot, covering only half of the part with soil. As soon as the roots appear, the remaining part should also be covered with soil, without affecting the buds.

Whole tubers can be stored for no more than five years. Before planting them in the ground, they must be cleaned of traces of rot and mold.

Cuttings

This procedure is carried out in spring. To do this, you will need shoots whose length does not exceed 10 cm. Peat or a container filled with water is suitable for rooting.

If you decide to plant them in the ground, then do not forget to cover the cuttings with film, which will prevent the soil from drying out. After a few weeks, the cuttings will begin to produce roots and grow. This means it's time to plant them in separate pots.

Planting from seeds

In order for your plants to go to seed, you need to have female and male flowers so they can be pollinated. It is necessary to sow the seeds in December or January, which will allow the plant to bloom in the same summer. Leafy soil is best for growing seeds. Do not bury the seeds in soil under any circumstances, since for germination it is enough to simply sprinkle them on the surface of the soil, after which, using a spray bottle, you need to slightly moisten the soil. Using the film, you need to create a kind of greenhouse, which must be opened periodically, allowing air to penetrate inside. Don't let the soil dry out, keep it moist.

If the air temperature is constantly around 25 degrees, then in a few weeks the first shoots will appear. If you do everything correctly and do not allow the soil to dry out completely, then all the seeds will definitely germinate. Slightly grown sprouts need to be planted and covered with film for a few more days. When the 5th leaf appears on the sprout, it must be sprayed with a growth regulator. This allows the begonia to take a beautiful shape and delight its owners with its lush and unusual flowering. About five months after planting, the flower will begin to produce buds.

IMPORTANT!!! The first two methods, unlike the last, allow the young plant to be the same as the flower from which it originated.

Begonia propagation

Tuberous begonia is propagated in 3 ways: by seed, cuttings and dividing the tuber.

Tuber

An effective method, but only possible if at least three buds remain on the parts.

Step by step:

  • The tuber is cut with a disinfected sharp knife.
  • Treat the cut with charcoal.
  • Plant according to the planting pattern.

Cutting

With this method, in mid-spring, the following activities are carried out:

  • Cuttings of about 10 cm are separated from the mother bush.
  • Take a container with wet peat and plant sprouts in it.
  • When they take root, they are planted. When replanting, pinch to encourage side shoots to grow.

Seeds

The method is long and labor-intensive. When placing a house, it is difficult to obtain seed material:

  • flowers are artificially pollinated using a brush;
  • When the fruits appear, it is not easy to collect the seeds, since they are very small.

Seed planting process:

  • Seeds mixed with sand are scattered into a container with soil for begonias. Moisten with a spray bottle.
  • Cover with a transparent lid (glass, film).
  • After the emergence of strong shoots, they dive.

Tuberous begonia: how to plant plants in the ground in the garden?

Begonia is very thermophilic, so wait until the end of spring frosts (late May - early June). Pre-harden off the plant by placing the pots in the shade outdoors during the daytime. During hardening, tuberous begonia leaves may fall off (this is normal).

To increase immunity during the adaptation period, you can treat young plants with “Epin” or “Immunocytophyte”

Planting and care in the garden

The flower loves areas well lit by sunlight.
But they should not be straight, as this will damage the foliage of the plant. For begonia to grow successfully, it needs diffused lighting or slightly shaded areas in the garden. A properly selected place will allow the flower not only to grow quickly, but also to bloom magnificently and for quite a long time.

Begonia is a flower that is very picky about the composition of the soil in which it will grow.

So that it can please you with its abundant flowering, you need to choose a place with nutritious, loose soil that has neutral acidity.

An adult plant thrives in soil that contains:

  1. deciduous ground
  2. sand
  3. peat
  4. humus

Be sure to maintain a ratio of 3:1:1:1.

Tuberous begonia: planting and care after planting

If you plan to plant begonia in a flowerbed, then choose a semi-shaded place for it with drained, light and fertile soil. But keep in mind: it is much more convenient to provide the necessary care and select suitable soil for plants planted in separate containers. Therefore, even as a garden decoration, it is better to keep begonia in a container culture.

The planting distance is determined depending on the variety: 15x15 cm, 20x20 cm or 30x30 cm. After planting the begonia, mulch the soil around the tuber and sprinkle it with ash.

If you follow these simple steps for planting and caring for a young tuberous begonia, it will bloom throughout the second half of summer and early autumn. Good luck!

Landing Features

Despite its delicate and fragile appearance, red begonia has high vitality and can be reborn even from a small piece of leaf. The planting technology is not particularly difficult, but it requires care and compliance with some subtleties.

Optimal time of year

Planting must be done in the following cases:

  1. After purchasing in a store . Experienced flower growers advise moving the plant to a new container with new soil immediately after purchasing it at the flower market. The fact is that in store conditions the flower is grown in special soils that are not suitable for home cultivation of begonias.
  2. With strong growth of the root system . When the roots begin to stick out of the container, the crop should be transplanted into a new, more spacious pot, otherwise it will slow down in growth and drop flowers.

It is best to plant begonias in the spring, after they have completely bloomed.

Important! A flower can be transplanted after purchasing it at any time, regardless of seasonality.

Choosing a pot and preparing the soil

When planting begonias, it is extremely important to take care of choosing a suitable pot. Since the root system of the flower is not characterized by strong and powerful development, experts advise choosing a container that is not very deep and wide. To prevent the roots of the crop from rotting and moisture from stagnating in the container, you need to take a small container, approximately 14 cm in diameter. When subsequently replanting a flower, you should choose a pot 1-2 cm larger than the old one. The material of the container does not matter much, but it is better to give preference to containers made of ceramics, glass or plastic.

As for the soil mixture, loose, fibrous soils are ideal for begonias, which can be purchased at flower shops or made yourself.

For the last option you need to mix:

  • leaf soil - 2 parts;
  • peat - 1 part;
  • chernozem - 1 part;
  • rotted manure - 10%.

Immediately before planting the crop, the soil must be disinfected by calcining it for 25–30 minutes in the oven at a temperature of +180°C or spilling it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Optimal conditions

Red begonia prefers good, bright, but diffused light, and can also thrive in light partial shade. Direct sunlight is destructive to the flower, the impact of which can lead to burns on the foliage.

We advise you to read why begonia leaves dry out.

The optimal temperature indicators for begonia are considered to be +21…+23°C during the daytime and about +18°C at night. In winter, it is allowed to reduce the temperature to +15…+18°C.

Due to its tropical origin, the plant loves high humidity, but has a negative attitude towards surface spraying. When moisture gets on the foliage, brown spots form, which subsequently turn into putrefactive areas. If the level of humidity is insufficient, it is recommended to place the container with the flower in a tray with water or install additional sources of moisture near the flower: indoor fountains, air humidifiers, tanks with fish, etc.

Landing technology

Planting begonias is a fairly simple process and is based on the following steps:

  1. Before planting in the ground, conduct a thorough visual inspection of the root system. All rotten, dry, damaged areas are removed, the roots are soaked for 20–40 minutes in any solution of a fungicidal preparation.
  2. A small layer of drainage is poured into the bottom of the prepared container, which can be expanded clay or small pebbles. The drainage layer should occupy no more than 10% of the volume of the entire pot.
  3. Loose soil is poured onto the drainage layer, on which the tuber is planted “shoulder-deep”. When planting, it is very important not to deepen the tuber too much.
  4. The plant is sprinkled with soil and watered.

Important! Until the begonia takes root, it should be watered along the edge of the pot. Also, during the plant’s adaptation period, approximately 1 month, it should not be exposed to the sun.

Features and differences between wintering home and garden begonias

November is the beginning of the rest period, but this is an approximate period. It all depends on where the plant spent the summer. What is the goal, to extend flowering or reduce it. But in any case, the flower needs to rest for at least 3 months.

Indoor

When storing domestic plants in winter, they are not removed from the pot, but cut off, leaving a shoot of 1 cm. They are kept under the conditions described in the seasonal table.

Garden

At the end of October, garden specimens are dug up, the roots are shortened, treated with a fungicide (Fitosporin), dried, and placed in a container with peat. Place in a dark, dry room until spring. They can also be stored on the refrigerator door, wrapped in sphagnum moss or in a cotton bag.

In the spring, they are planted in a pot, and after germination, they are planted in open ground.

Reproduction methods

It is theoretically possible to obtain Fimbriata from a leaf, but in practice the plate will rather dry out or rot than produce babies. Typically, Tubergybrid is propagated by other vegetative organs.

Tuber division

The diameter of the tuber must be at least 5 cm. When the begonia comes out of the dormant period at the end of winter or spring, tubercles of sprouts will appear; division is carried out with a sharp knife or blade. Each part must contain at least one bud.

The wounds on the tuber are dried, covered with brilliant green or sprinkled with a mixture of crushed activated carbon and fungicide. Planted, leaving the upper part with growing points above the ground. When the shoots grow, sprinkle about 2 cm.

A tuber that has undergone division should not be planted in open ground.

Cuttings

Begonia fimbriata can be propagated from cuttings. Planting material is taken:

  • in early spring, they unscrew some of the shoots from a large tuber, which the plant still cannot feed;
  • “wake up” the begonia in January, when the sprouts produce 3 leaves, cut off above the first plate and root;
  • use the tops of stems for propagation;
  • lateral branches emerging from the leaf axils;
  • At the end of August, healthy strong shoots are cut from Fimbriata growing in a flowerbed.

The cuttings are dried and rooted in water, perlite, sand, peat or a light substrate. During the first winter they are not sent to rest; they are kept on a bright windowsill.

Using seeds

Fimbriata seeds are not available for sale. Even if you carry out pollination by hand and get your own planting material, the seedlings will not inherit varietal characteristics.

How to prepare begonia for winter

With the onset of autumn, tuberous begonia stops blooming and growing. Over time, the foliage begins to die and the shoots dry out. At this moment, the tuber begins to receive all the beneficial substances, which allows it to strengthen and grow.

As soon as cold weather sets in, dried shoots should be cut off and watering of the plant should be reduced.

If the flower grew in the garden, then with the onset of cold weather you should not immediately start digging up its tubers. Of course, as already mentioned, begonia loves warmth very much, but before digging up its bulbs you should wait until all the shoots and leaves die off and the beneficial substances pass quietly to the tubers. During this period, new growth points begin to form on them.

Young plants with small bulbs should overwinter in pots on well-lit windowsills. Under such conditions, the foliage and stems do not die off, but the growth and flowering of begonias stops. The air temperature in the room where the flower will winter should not be below +15 degrees. The plant is watered quite rarely.

Adult bulbs are stored in cool places. If the plant grew in a pot, then the bulb can be left to winter in it. If the tuber was dug out of the ground, then it should be placed in a box filled with sand or peat. Be sure to moisten the substrate in which the tubers are stored so that they do not dry out. The period in which the bulbs are dormant begins in November and lasts until February.

Rules of care

Preparing the soil

Planting in the ground is the most crucial moment in germinating begonias. To prepare the soil you will need a mixture of several components:

  • 3 parts of deciduous soil;
  • 1 part sand;
  • 1 part peat;
  • 1 part rotted cow dung.

When planting in the ground, it is strictly forbidden to cover the buds with soil , otherwise the sprouts will not be able to germinate. You can add the soil mixture a little later, when the seedlings appear.

Location and lighting


It is better to place the Fimbriata begonia flower next to a window, while avoiding direct sunlight, otherwise the plant may get burned and begin to wither.
The optimal location is the southeast side, because Begonia prefers diffused light, and finding the flower in a darker place causes the plant to become too elongated and bloom poorly.

In spring and summer, the pot can be taken out to the balcony or planted in open ground.

It is not recommended to unfold and move the pot with the plant, because... Begonia gets too used to the light and may die when moving from place to place.

Humidity and watering

For normal growth and flowering, moisture and watering requirements must be strictly observed. The soil should not dry out more than a centimeter; watering should be done first at least 3 times a week, and then once a week.

For irrigation, use clean water at room temperature. Recommended air humidity is at least 60%. To ensure the necessary humidity, it is better to place the pot on a tray with water.

If there is excess moisture, begonia can rot , so in hot weather the air around the flower should be carefully sprayed with a spray bottle so that drops do not fall on the leaves.

Temperature


For Fimbriata begonia, the temperature regime is very important, which should be maintained within 14-22 degrees in the spring and summer.
The lower limit of normal in winter is 14 degrees. Begonia Fimbriata loves shaded areas and will become a bright accent in those corners of the garden where other plants cannot please with such abundant flowering.

Begonia Fimbriata does not tolerate temperature changes , especially in room conditions. Therefore, the main rule for keeping this flower is maintaining optimal temperature conditions.

Top dressing

Fertilizing should be done during the period of active growth - spring and summer. To do this, you can purchase a ready-made Agricola Aqua complex. To achieve maximum flowering, use it no more than twice a month.

Nitrogenous fertilizers should be used with caution, because they negatively affect flowering.

Rest period

The plant's dormant period is from January to March . During this period, the flower is in a state of inactive growth.

Useful video (Awakening)

Awakening and how to properly plant tubers in spring:

Difficulties in growing and reasons

When growing begonias, some difficulties may arise.

Eg:

  1. Yellowing of leaves . This may happen because the plant does not have enough light. Also, such a nuisance can occur with too much or insufficient watering.
  2. The tips of the leaves have turned brown . The indoor air is too dry.
  3. The leaves have a dull color and there is rot . The reason is excessive watering, the earth is oversaturated with moisture.
  4. Fall of buds . Too much watering or the air in the room is very dry.

Leaves fall . Most likely, the plant does not have enough light, and its stems will be quite thin with a small number of leaves. If the room temperature is high, the leaves will become curled and dry. They can also begin to rot and wither when there is an excessive amount of moisture in the soil.

What to do with tuberous begonia in the fall?

In autumn, initial frosts do not harm the tubers, so tuberous begonia is dug up after the leaves have fallen. A significant increase in tubers occurs at the end of the growing season due to the accumulated supply of nutrients and the establishment of renewal points.

In the house, the potted plant will bloom almost until the end of autumn. In October, the intensity of watering is reduced. After flowering is completed, the shoots are cut off and the tubers remain in dry soil or sand at a temperature of 8-10°C. In March - April they are transplanted into fresh soil mixture and watered regularly. When sprouts appear, the pots are placed in the light. If a large number of shoots are formed, they are partially used for cuttings, leaving 1-2 of the best shoots.

Mistakes when growing begonias, diseases and pests

Symptoms

External manifestations on leaves

CauseElimination methods
Yellowing, fading.
  • lack of hydration;
  • nutrition;
  • root damage.
  • watered correctly;
  • feed;
  • inspect the root system; if problems are detected, it is treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and the soil is changed.
Dryness, browning of ends.Lack of moisture, dry air.Increase watering and moisturize the room.
Pallor, loss of color.Little light.Provide good lighting.
The appearance of a wet white coating.Powdery mildew.Remove damaged parts. Reduce watering. Spray with 1% colloidal sulfur solution.
Brown spots, gray coating.Gray rot.Diseased leaves are cut off and treated with a fungicide (Fitosporin, Green soap).
Falling buds.Dry air, too wet soil.Moisten the area next to the plant, water only as the top layer of soil dries (1 cm).
Twisting of all parts of the plant, deformation and death.Aphid.Remove insects. Use medications containing permethrin.
Yellow spots, dots, white cobwebs.Spider mite.Insecticides are used (Fitoferm, Derris).

Sources

  • https://MrDachnik.com/klubnevaya-begoniya
  • https://selo.guru/rastenievodstvo/derorativ/begoniya/vidy-beg/cvetushaya/klubnevaya/doma-uhod.html
  • https://rastenievod.com/begoniya-klubnevaya.html
  • https://www.podmoskovje.com/klubnevaya-begoniya/
  • https://dcactus.ru/begoniya-klubnevaya/
  • https://zamioculcas.ru/begoniya-klubnevaya-v-domashnih-usloviyah.html
  • https://LePlants.ru/tsvetovodstvo/posadka-begonii-klubnevoy-v-domashnih-usloviyah-dlya-doma-ili-otkrytogo-grunta/

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Reproduction

When propagated by stems, they are divided into parts 3 cm long and each is planted by pressing it into the ground for rooting in pots. It is good if the soil is pre-heated. For planting, a moist substrate of sand and peat in a 3:1 ratio is used, the container is placed in a dark place, where the crop takes root after a couple of months.

Propagation by seeds is carried out in December – March. The substrate is taken from deciduous soil, sand and peat. The seeds are pressed into the soil; germination can be expected in 10–15 days. Seedlings that have grown slightly dive. New plants must be planted in separate pots. By mid-summer they already delight with beautiful flowering.

Tubers are planted in February and can continue until June. To do this, the tuber must be buried halfway into the ground, placed in a dark, cool room, and watered in moderation for a couple of weeks. When the shoots sprout, the tuber must be sprinkled with earth. It is best to place the pot in a sufficiently lit and warm place.

Famous representatives of the group

Plants representing the fringed group are a little similar to each other, but each is unique in its own way. First of all, this concerns the color of the buds, depending on which the following varieties of begonia fimbriata are distinguished:

  1. Yellow.

  2. Orange.

  3. White.

  4. Red.

  5. Pink.


In addition to begonias with monochromatic flowers, in stores you can also find various mixtures of varieties (mixes), including 3 or 5 different shades.

Description of the plant

Tuberous begonia forms an underground rhizome or tuber, which gives it its name.

The stem is fragile, succulent, sometimes colored, sometimes covered with hairs, plant height is 20-50 cm. Asymmetrical heart-shaped leaves are richly colored with clear textured veins.

Plant characteristics

Tuberous begonia (Begonia tuberhybrida) is an unpretentious perennial plant. It looks great anywhere, is very versatile and extremely popular. Begonias were first described in history in 1690 by the French botanist Charles Plumiere. The name comes from another French plant expert, Michel Begon, and was used as a tribute. However, the delicate colorful flowers were known much earlier - according to historical sources, they were grown in China as early as the 14th century.

Numerous varieties make the begonia flower widespread and very popular among gardeners. The plant has been known in Europe for many years. Garden begonia flowers grow well in our climatic conditions; many varieties are created by crossing numerous species from Africa and the Andes.

Begonia is a small plant, the length of its shoots rarely exceeds 30 cm. The flower tends to branch quickly, which makes it even more attractive. It looks like a small bush decorated with beautiful flowers. The leaves are noteworthy - short, heart-shaped, fleshy and shiny, planted on rather long petioles.

Outdoor begonia blooms from June until the first frost, so it becomes the best decoration for the summer and autumn garden. Winter or ever-blooming begonia (Begonia x semperflorens-cultorum) is also known. Tuberous begonia owes its name to the fact that it forms underground tubers with the help of which it reproduces. Plants planted in the garden look very impressive. These flowers are also suitable for growing in pots, outdoor containers, and on balconies.

Benefits of the plant

  1. Begonias bloom profusely throughout the summer until the first frost.
  2. Grows well in sun and partial shade.
  3. The choice between the available varieties is so great that you can choose between many interesting flower colors and different shapes, reaching from 10 to 30-35 cm in height, with straight or drooping stems.
  4. The flower can be grown in flower beds, in pots, containers, decorating terraces and balconies.
  5. Ready-made seedlings are widely available for sale in the spring.
  6. Young plants can be grown without problems at home on a windowsill by planting tubers bought in a store or stored from the previous season in early spring.

Let's sum it up

Tuberous begonia is a very attractive plant. It looks great in the garden and can often be seen on windowsills. This is one of the few attractive plants that can be planted in the shade, which is why it is so popular. The flower is distinguished by its charm, so it often becomes a decoration for gardens, balconies, and window sills. Once they plant a begonia, many leave it in the garden forever. It is also suitable as a plant for ponds and rock gardens.


Begonia Fimbriata fully lives up to its name, which is translated from Latin as “fringed.” This differs from other subspecies of begonias precisely in the shape of the flowers: they are so lush and stuffed, and the petals have a jagged edge that they are more reminiscent of large carnations.

It is worth noting that Fimbriata begonias are not a separate variety, but a whole group of plants united by a common characteristic. The varieties included in the group have the same, pronounced double shape of the inflorescences, but differ in their color, size and shape of the flower petals themselves.

The flowers of the fimbriata group are tuberous and are widely used both in home cultivation and for planting in open ground for the spring-summer season.

Varieties and varieties of begonias with photos

It is difficult to describe in words what begonia flowers look like. Plant varieties represent a huge collection of different colors and shapes.

There are 2 popular garden species that can be grown outdoors:

  1. Tuberous (Begonia x tuberhybrida) with large multi-colored flowers.
  2. Semperflorens – ever-blooming or ever-blooming (Begonia semperflorens). Grows up to 50 cm in height, blooms from spring to autumn.

The following species are usually grown at home:

  1. royal (Begonia rex) - with beautifully colored leaves;
  2. winter (Begonia x hiemalis) - with extremely noble pink inflorescences.

Some species are annuals and require annual planting, while others, such as tuberous begonias, can overwinter.

There are tuberous varieties with semi-double, double and single flowers. Also popular is cascading ampelous begonia with much smaller flowers. Royal begonia does not produce many flowers; its leaves give it a decorative appearance.

Begonia varieties are difficult to count, their number is huge, as well as the number of variations and varieties. In the house and garden, standard tuberous begonia is most often grown, which is divided into 3 main groups. The criterion for division is the type and size of flowers.

  1. Large-flowered begonia (Begonia x tuberhybr >

  2. Ampelous begonias are distinguished by the beautiful shape of the bush; they form thin, long, drooping stems. Hanging varieties are better suited for the balcony, where they look great in boxes or hanging pots - flowerpots. The shoots are covered with thin flowers that form large inflorescences and look very attractive. Varieties of hanging begonias differ in color and flower shape - some are simple, others are double, the most magnificent. Cascade begonia is the best plant for shaded balconies.

  3. Multiflora Multiflora (Begonia Multiflora Maxima) is not a garden begonia, the plant is suitable for a balcony, has tiny flowers. It looks great on the windowsill. Like the royal begonia, this is one of the most popular plants with decorative leaves covered with hairs and painted in different, most beautiful colors and patterns.

Name and description of the varietyPhoto
Camellia bicolor (Bicolor Camellia) pink. The best place is a slightly shaded position, protected from the winds. The soil should be humus, permeable, and moist. Blooms in July – October. Grows up to 25-40 cm in height.

Fimbriata white. White color. Variety: fimbriata - shaggy. Height: 20-25 cm. Flowering: June-September. Leaves in the shape of a heart. Flowers grow in the corners of the upper leaves, have a diameter of up to 12 cm, the petals are curled.

Red fimbriata (Begonia fimbriata). Color: red. Variety: fimbriata - shaggy. Height: 20-25 cm. Flowering: June-September. The flowers are red, up to 12 cm in diameter.

Orange fimbriata (Begonia fimbriata). Variety: fimbriata - shaggy. Orange color.

Fimbriata pink (Fimbriata). Pink fimbriata shaggy.

Fimbriata yellow . Begonia with yellow flowers.

Grandiflora white (Grandiflora). Heart-shaped leaves, dense, succulent flower shoots. The flowers grow in the corners of the upper leaves, with serrated petals. The underground part is a flattened bulb covered with a thick dark brown skin.

Grandiflora red bulbous (Grandiflora). Red flowers with serrated petals.

Grandiflora orange. Orange serrated petals.

Grandiflora pink. Pink flowers.

White pendula (Begonia x tuberhybrida pendula). White color. Height: 30 cm. Flowering: June-September. Heart shaped leaves; thick, juicy flower shoots. Flowers grow in the corners of the upper leaves on hanging shoots. They reach a diameter of 7 cm.

Pendula red. Pendula with red flowers.

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