People learned to grow fruit trees in their homes a long time ago. They develop well indoors, grow quickly, can be molded, bloom and delight their owners with delicious fruits. One of the most popular are citrus indoor plants.
Citrus trees grow in India, Australia, China, Japan, in tropical or subtropical climates. These regions always have warm and humid air and plenty of sunshine throughout the year. Tasty and aromatic fruits grow on trees and shrubs. Trees in natural conditions grow up to 12 m high.
The peculiarities of growing citrus plants include their uneven growth: the vigorous development of young shoots alternates with a period of dormancy.
Homemade citrus
Citrus fruits are mainly remontant plants and can produce crops several times a year.
To obtain fruits, it is best to purchase grafted seedlings or rooted cuttings of Citrus fruits.
Their flowers are bisexual.
Although most Citrus fruits are self-pollinating, flower growers recommend artificial pollination. This will increase the fruit yield.
The fruit ripening period lasts from 5 to 9 months.
Plant propagation is carried out using seeds, as well as cuttings and grafting.
Citrus diseases
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Diseases can be associated with physiological disorders caused by a deficiency or, conversely, an excess of microelements.
Some signs of excess or deficiency of microelements:
- Mature leaves are dull and turn yellow. This is due to a lack of nitrogen. If there is rapid growth of young shoots, the plant fattens and does not bloom, then there may be an excess of nitrogen in the soil.
- The leaves turn yellow and become smaller, flowering is weak. There may be a lack of phosphorus in the soil. If there is an excess of a microelement, the plant develops and grows poorly;
- The leaf plate warps, pits form on it, folds appear on the leaf along the veins, some of the branches die off, and foliage falls off during the flowering period. This is possible due to a lack of potassium. If there is an excess of potassium, brown necrotic burns appear along the edges of the leaf;
Lemon leaf for potassium deficiency
- The growth of defective young leaves and the death of growth points are provoked by a lack of calcium and boron;
- With a lack of iron, manganese, zinc or sulfur, leaf chlorosis is observed (green veins are clearly visible on yellow leaves), young shoots die.
Citrus plant disease can be caused by pests. These include:
- scale insect and false scale insect (appearance of wax plaques on leaves and branches);
- mealybug (appearance of white lumps in the axils of the leaves);
- aphids (a cluster of small black insects on young shoots);
- spider mite (yellow dots form on the leaves, a white coating appears below).
Fungal diseases include:
- malseco (the branches turn black and then begin to dry);
- gum bleeding (the appearance of liquid from a wound on the branches and trunk);
Gum treatment
- anthractic disease (the appearance of wet spots on a leaf, which eventually merge into one);
- powdery mildew (white coating on leaves).
When a disease is detected, it is necessary to adjust the watering and feeding of the plant. In case of fungal diseases, damaged branches are removed and sprayed with fungicides.
Oranges
Oranges grown in a home or apartment are no less common than tangerines. Many people grow them from seeds taken from store-bought fruit. It is worth noting that the orange tree is often grown for ornamental purposes and not to produce oranges. This is due to the fact that the fruits formed by an indoor tree do not have the same taste characteristics as store-bought oranges.
In a house, such a tree can grow up to 3 meters, and in nature the plant reaches a height of 7 meters.
The following varieties of oranges are suitable for growing in pots:
- Pavlovsky. It is considered the best variety for home cultivation;
- Gamplin. This is a dwarf plant that grows to a height of no more than 1.5 meters. It has excellent productivity;
- Adjarian seedless. The tree produces flat-round and fairly brightly colored fruits;
- The kinglet is pear-shaped. Famous for its pear-shaped fruits.
They differ from each other in the shape of the fruit, growing conditions and care.
Caring for indoor citrus fruits
In order for indoor citrus to develop and bear fruit normally, it is necessary to organize proper watering, lighting, and also set the optimal temperature and humidity.
Watering mode
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Plants should be watered moderately and regularly. They do not like drought, but waterlogging is also unacceptable for them. The signal for watering is the top dried layer of soil. In summer, watering is done daily, in winter - as needed, the main thing is that the soil does not dry out.
Attention! After proper watering, some of the water should flow into the pan.
Temperature and humidity
For normal development and fruiting of plants, the ambient temperature should be between +18 and +22°C. Higher and lower lead to inhibition of the development of indoor plants.
In spring and summer, the flower pot can be taken out onto the loggia or balcony.
It is also necessary to maintain humidity around 70%. To do this, in the summer, wipe the leaves with a damp cloth, install a humidifier near the flower pot, or spray the plant with soft water.
Top dressing
Fertilizers are applied only during the growing season. Fertilizing is carried out in pre-moistened soil.
To maintain beneficial microflora, use the drug Baikal or Vostok EM-1.
You can feed it with organic fertilizers. To do this, take an infusion of horse manure at the rate of 100 g per 1 liter of water. Infuse the fertilizer for 2 weeks.
You can use an infusion of chicken manure or cow manure in a proportion of 40 g per 1 liter of water.
Note! To apply mineral fertilizing, special complex fertilizers for citrus fruits are used.
Mineral and organic fertilizers are applied alternately every 10 days.
Nitrogen compounds are not used during flowering. During this period, the plant needs phosphorus and calcium.
Wintering plants
In winter, the air temperature should be lowered. If the room is warm, the life processes of the tree will proceed quite actively. Since citrus photosynthesis is slow during this period, the plant does not receive additional energy. As a result, the tree will become depleted, which may lead to its death.
This time is called the rest period. It lasts from November to February. Then the citrus wood ripens and young shoots do not grow.
The air temperature during this period is maintained depending on the type of Citrus fruit. To maintain a 12-hour daylight hours for citrus fruits, artificial lighting is provided.
Where to get planting material for growing citrus fruits
Most often, planting material can be:
- buy
- obtained by cuttings
- grow from seed
How to choose a citrus plant in a store
The most convenient planting material for growing citrus crops at home will be a young plant purchased in a special store. Important! You need to purchase a plant only from a trusted seller or manufacturer.
Most often, when purchasing a plant in a serious store, you can also receive recommendations on how to adapt it to new growing conditions. Try not to purchase a very mature plant with many already formed fruits. When purchasing, you need to inspect the leaves from the underside; these are the places that various pests love.
Video about growing citrus fruits in a room:
Also, the plant should not have serious mechanical damage. A small amount of ovary or adult fruit is acceptable. The optimal ratio is one fruit per 15 leaves. After acquisition, the fruits will have to be cut off. The plant should be kept in the purchased pot for a week, and then transplanted into a new one.
Rooting cuttings
To obtain a cutting, the shoot must be cut from a well-developed healthy citrus tree. The length of the cutting is about 10 - 12 cm, it should contain at least 2-3 buds. You should not take shoots that are too young or too old with dense wood.
The best time to take cuttings is April. Rooting can be done either in a glass of water or in soil consisting of earth and sand, covering the cutting with part of a plastic bottle. The roots appear in about 20 - 25 days. After this, the plant can be planted in a permanent pot.
Growing from seeds
Despite the fact that growing from seeds is the most accessible for amateur propagation of citrus fruits, its results are unpredictable. You can get a plant whose fruits will be inferior to the parent form, or you can get a new superior plant. However, it is also possible for a seedling obtained from seeds to have no flowers. The seeds germinate in about a month, and the seedling needs to be replanted at the 5-leaf stage.
Homemade orange seed
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An orange tree can be grown at home from an orange seed purchased in a store. However, in this case it will not bloom earlier than in 7-10 years. In a pot it can reach 3 meters in height.
Orange tree
If you want to get a harvest faster, it is better to graft or propagate the orange using cuttings. After grafting or after planting a cutting, the plant can bloom in 3-4 years.
Conditions for germinating orange seeds
In order to grow a seedling, you must follow the following step-by-step procedure:
- Preparation of seed material;
- Preparation of soil and containers for growing seedlings;
- Replanting seeds;
- Sowing care;
- Picking and transplanting a finished seedling.
It is better to plant an orange in early spring so that there is sufficient natural light for the seedlings.
How to choose a fruit of the desired maturity and separate the stone
To obtain seeds, you need to take fully ripened fruits, without damage or rot. Ripe oranges have a rich, specific smell and are heavy in weight. The fruit should be evenly colored and free of spots.
The most round, large and full-bodied seeds are selected. They are immediately freed from pulp, washed in water and soaked for 12-24 hours in water or a solution of Epin or another growth stimulant. Soaking will soften the outer shell of the seeds, which will allow the seeds to germinate faster.
Attention! Dried seeds are not used for germination, as the thick skin will prevent germination.
Preparing the soil mixture and choosing a pot
Soil for planting can be purchased at the store, or you can make it yourself. To prepare the soil mixture, use leaf soil, sand and peat, taken in equal quantities, or leaf soil and peat.
For sowing, you can use small containers with drainage holes.
Stages of seed preparation
A drainage layer of expanded clay, vermiculite, etc. is placed at the bottom of the pot. Soil is poured on top and compacted a little.
Planting and growing seedlings
The seed should be planted shallowly, to a depth of 1-1.5 cm.
The prepared pots are placed in a warm place. Lighting does not play a role at this stage. To create a greenhouse effect, they are covered on top with a piece of polyethylene or a cut plastic bottle.
You can pre-germinate the seeds. To do this, place a cloth in the container, which is pre-moistened. Seeds are placed on it, which is also covered with a damp cloth. They are setting up a greenhouse. After a few weeks, the seeds will germinate. After germination, the seedlings are transferred to a well-lit place.
When 2 leaves appear, the seedlings need to be picked; when 4 leaves appear, they are transplanted by transshipment to a permanent place.
Orange tree seedlings
Pots with seedlings are placed on south-eastern or south-western window sills.
Seed and sprout watering mode
When germinating a seed, the soil should not be too dry or waterlogged. Therefore, the ground is periodically sprayed with water from a spray bottle. After germination, the soil should also be moderately moist.
Growing citrus fruits from seeds
Many people try to grow citrus fruits by planting a seed from the fruit they like in a pot with damp soil. As a rule, a strong sprout very quickly emerges from the ground, which within a few years develops into a beautiful harmonious tree. Its neat stem and beautiful crown with shiny leaves constantly delight the eye, and watching the active growth of an exotic tree gives real pleasure. If you do not expect flowering and fruiting from your pet, then growing a citrus tree from a seed, forming its crown, or even giving it the shape of a trunk, is a very fun and exciting hobby.
However, we should not forget that citrus fruits, as well as, for example, apple trees, require grafting to bear fruit, because from the seed of any variety a “wild” grows - a plant that has lost its varietal characteristics. Wild citrus fruits begin to bear fruit very late and their fruits are unsuitable for food due to their bitter taste. Therefore, in order to obtain fruit on a tree grown from a seed, it is necessary to graft a varietal branch from a fruit-bearing tree, which will develop over time into a fruit-bearing plant. You can look for a branch for grafting on forums for plant lovers, in agricultural institutes and greenhouses.
There is another rather adventurous way to get material for grafting - bring fresh twigs from your vacation in a warm country. It is very important to taste the fruits from the tree from which you are going to take sprouts, because there are usually a lot of wild fruits with bitter fruits growing on the streets. The branches need to be cut off literally before departure, carefully wrapped in a damp cloth and a plastic bag, and when you arrive home, the first thing you do is graft them onto your tree. To be safe, it is better to do not just one graft, but several at once - this way you will increase the chances that at least one of the varietal branches will take root.
Citrofortunella home care (calamondin)
Kalamandin what is it
Another evergreen citrus plant with a beautiful name is calamondin citrus. It appeared as a result of crossing kinkan and mandarin plants. It is also called Chinese mandarin and golden orange. They are grown indoors and in winter gardens. Can be presented in standard form or as a bonsai.
Bonsai calamondin
Under natural conditions it grows in height from 3 to 7 m, at home – from 0.6 to 1.5 m.
The flowers are white, self-pollinating.
The calamondin fruit is orange in color, round, slightly flattened at the top and bottom, up to 4.5 cm in size. The pulp is sour, consists of 6-8 lobules, covered with a thin, aromatic skin.
Care
Citrofortunella grows well indoors. Calamondin care involves creating optimal conditions for the development and fruiting of the plant.
Illumination
One of the requirements for caring for calamondin at home is the organization of lighting. Daylight should not be less than 12 hours, so in winter there is a need for artificial lighting. In summer, it is advisable to place a citrus hybrid in the garden. The place should be slightly shaded so that direct sunlight does not hit the plant.
Temperature
During the growing season, the ambient temperature should be between +18 and 27°C. If the temperature is high, the plant will drop its fruits.
Calamondin fruit
During the rest period, the temperature is reduced to +10-15°C.
How to water
The soil in the pot should be moderately moist. Water the plant daily in summer, in winter - no more than once every 1-2 weeks.
For irrigation, the water should be soft and at room temperature. After watering, the water that has spilled into the pan is removed. If the air is dry, then additionally spray the crown.
Top dressing
Fertilizer is applied during the growing season once every 7-10 days. For this purpose, complex fertilizers for citrus fruits are used.
Attention! During the dormant period, fertilizing is not carried out.
Earth mixture
Neutral soil is used. You can use special soil for citrus fruits. To prepare the soil yourself, take 2 parts of turf soil and 1 part each of rotted manure and sand.
How to grow grapefruit at home
Grapefruit is a spontaneous hybrid of an orange and a pomelo. Outwardly, its fruits are similar to orange ones, but their pulp is sour and has a bitter taste, and it comes in both yellow and red shades.
It is also easy to germinate grapefruit from a seed at home (if it is not a seedless variety, which can only be propagated vegetatively, by cuttings), and then grow a young tree on a windowsill, although it would be better to provide adult plants with more space in a greenhouse or conservatory.
Grapefruit seeds do not even require soaking; immediately after being removed from a ripe, healthy fruit, they can be sown in moist soil, deepened by 2-3 cm. Cover the pot with half a plastic bottle or film so that shoots appear faster, and place it on a warm and light windowsill (but no direct sunlight).
It is important not to let the soil dry out, otherwise the grapefruit may stop developing. If everything is done correctly, the first shoots will appear in 2-3 weeks. Gradually accustom them to life without shelter, add soil, and when the plants reach a height of about 10 cm, transplant them into a larger pot.
Caring for grapefruit is standard, as for other citrus fruits - timely watering and fertilizing, preventative treatment against pests, crown formation if necessary, as well as ensuring a period of winter dormancy.
Like other citrus fruits, from time to time grapefruit will require you to transplant it into a larger container.
How to care for a lemon tree at home
Caring for lemon, just like any other citrus fruit, consists of properly organizing the conditions for its development. The most suitable varieties for growing indoors are Pavlovsky, Eureka and Maikop.
Lemon Tree
Illumination
Daylight hours for a lemon tree should be at least 12 hours. The most suitable places are south-east and south-west windows.
Do not allow direct sunlight to hit the leaves of the plant. If the flower pot is located on the south window, then in the summer you need to shade the citrus. In winter, additional lighting is provided in the evening hours.
Temperature
During flowering, it is necessary to maintain the ambient temperature no higher than 20°C, otherwise high temperatures will cause flowers to fall off.
In winter, the optimal temperature for lemon will be from +14 to +16°C.
How to water
Depending on the temperature and dryness of the air, watering is carried out daily or once every 2 days in the summer, and 2 times a month in winter.
Important! To prevent rotting of the roots, the water remaining in the pan after watering is drained.
It is advisable to wipe the leaves from dust and dirt at least once a month. This will help improve the photosynthesis of the plant.
Top dressing
For normal plant development, it is recommended to fertilize with mineral compounds once every 2 weeks during the growing season (from March to September). Fertilizer is applied after watering. You can use an infusion of cow dung and an infusion of wood ash. It is better to alternate fertilizers.
Earth mixture
When transplanting lemons, use a ready-made soil mixture or make it yourself. To do this, mix peat, turf and leaf soil, and sand in equal parts.
How to grow an orange at home
Orange is also a natural hybrid, oddly enough, of tangerine and pomelo. “Emerging” from China in ancient times, today it is the most widespread citrus crop in all tropical and subtropical regions of the world. In the wild, orange trees reach 7 m in height, but, of course, you won’t grow such a giant at home. And why, if you can get sweet fruits from a tub plant?
The technology for growing an orange at home is not much different from that described above: the seeds from a ripe fruit are washed, soaked in warm water, planted in pots, and a greenhouse effect is created. The soil for an orange is suitable with the same composition, watering is as frequent, the same fertilizers are used.
But the light and growing temperature are different from “lemon” ones. Orange, unlike its relative, requires more light and heat. For good health (especially during the flowering period), it needs a sunny place and at least 22-26°C. In winter, watering is reduced to 1-2 times a month, and the orange pot itself is kept indoors at a temperature no higher than 12-15°C.
After 5-10 years, depending on the conditions, the home orange tree will bear fruit, but it will be “wild”, most likely not the best in taste. To get truly delicious oranges, you will have to graft onto your plant a scion taken from a young branch of a varietal fruit-bearing tree.
Don’t throw away orange peels from fruits you grew yourself; they can be useful to you in the garden.
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We tell you how to use orange peels in your garden to protect plants from pests and increase productivity!
Mandarin: growing and care at home
This is another citrus that develops well in the house and produces tasty and aromatic fruits.
Illumination
The most suitable place for the plant is southern, southeastern or southwestern window sills. During the growing season, it is important to protect tangerines from direct sunlight. For protection, the window can be covered with gauze. In the autumn-winter period it requires additional artificial lighting.
tangerine tree
Temperature
The optimal temperature for tangerine development is +20°C. For successful budding, it is better to set the room temperature to +16-18°C. For wintering, citrus needs a temperature of +14-16°C.
How to water
Watering is carried out with settled warm water every day in summer, and once every 2 weeks in winter. The soil should be moderately moist.
Top dressing
Feeding the plant begins in April and ends in September-October. During the dormant period, tangerines are not fed. If you do not apply fertilizers, the fruits will become bitter.
Earth mixture
For cultivation, special soil for citrus fruits is used. To prepare the soil yourself, take 2 parts of leaf soil, 1 part each of humus, sand and turf soil.
How to grow lemon at home
The homeland of lemon is Southeast Asia, and it itself is a spontaneously occurring hybrid of sour orange and citron. On the Black Sea coast of the Caucasus today, lemon trees are successfully cultivated in open ground, and you can grow this evergreen plant right on your windowsill - because its fruits are not only tasty and beautiful, but also very healthy.
Indoor lemon cultivation is widespread throughout almost all of Russia. The city of Pavlovo, Nizhny Novgorod region, has become the center of the spread of indoor lemon culture, known as Pavlovsk lemon. The variety has been known since the beginning of the 20th century. In addition to Pavlovsky, other varieties are suitable for indoor cultivation: Panderosa (aka Skiernevitsky), Genoa, Yubileiny, Meyer, Lisbon, Lunario, Novogruzinsky, Maikopsky, etc.
You can get a lemon tree at home by rooting cuttings or grafting varietal shoots, but it is much more interesting to grow it yourself directly from the seed. To do this, select the largest thick seeds from fresh ripe lemons and, after washing them in running water, place them in a damp cloth for 2-3 days (this will make it easier for them to germinate). Some additionally treat citrus seeds with a growth stimulant before planting.
After this, feel free to plant the seeds in individual pots with drainage and well-moistened soil to a depth of about 3 cm and for the first time arrange a mini-greenhouse for them from film or the bottom of a plastic bottle. You can make up the soil for lemon yourself (1 part sand, 2 parts forest soil and 2 parts humus), or you can buy special soil for citrus fruits at a garden store.
After germination (about a month), begin to gradually accustom the lemon plants to the indoor climate, but protect them from drafts. Of the “domestic” citrus fruits, lemon is the least demanding of heat and light during the growing season, but it loves moisture and fertilizing. You can water and spray lemons at least every day in the summer, but for feeding you need to use specially developed compositions for citrus fruits according to the instructions.
Fruiting begins in the 3rd year after rooting of the cuttings or in the 6-8th year after planting a lemon seed. Homemade lemons usually bloom twice a year: in March-April and in October. At this time, it is important not to overheat it - the temperature should not exceed 18-20°C. The fruits ripen after 8-9 months between November and May. All these dates are approximate, because... a lot depends on the microclimate in your individual apartment.
In winter, it is better to place lemon plants in rooms with a temperature of 4-5°C, at which they are dormant.
Grapefruit tree at home
Like any citrus fruit, grapefruit will grow and bear fruit only if optimal development conditions are met for it.
Illumination
Daylight hours should last 10-12 hours. In winter, lighting is provided in the evening, if the day is cloudy - throughout the day.
Homemade grapefruit
Temperature
In the spring-summer period, the temperature should be between +20-27°C, in winter – +4-8°C.
How to water
The soil should be moist, but not waterlogged. In summer, watering is carried out daily, in winter - once every half month.
Top dressing
Fertilize the plant once every half month from April to September. In winter, fertilizing is not carried out.
Earth mixture
As with any citrus fruit, it is best to use Lemon soil. For self-preparation, take equal parts turf soil and humus, two parts leaf soil and ½ part sand.
By following simple rules for caring for citrus fruits, you can always grow beautiful small trees at home that will delight your owners with tasty and aromatic fruits.
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How many types of citrus fruits do you know? Orange, tangerine, kumquat, and then? We will talk about the most famous varieties of citrus fruits that are sold with us, how they differ from each other and what beneficial properties they have
But let’s start with lemons, as they are the most suitable for growing indoors.
Indoor citrus growing
Reproduction
Citrus diseases
Lemon care
Pavlovsk lemon. Pavlovsky is one of the most attractive varieties of this type of citrus fruit grown indoors.
This is a small compact bush from 1 to 1.5 meters in height, rarely reaching 2 m. It usually has 2-4 stems. Its crown is round, up to 1 m in diameter, or up to 1.5 m if formed like a fan, with branches hanging down. The bark on old branches is olive-gray, with longitudinal cracks; on young branches it is green. The branches have spines up to 1-2 cm long, pointed at the ends. Young spines are green, then they turn brown. Lemon leaves are light green, 13-15 cm long, 5-8 cm wide. Leaf blades vary in shape - from oval to oblong. But there are specimens with ovoid and broadly lanceolate leaves. As a rule, winging on petioles is not found, with rare exceptions. The serrations at the ends of the leaves also vary, with the serrations usually located at the top of the leaf. The surface of the leaves is glossy and shiny. Leaves live for 2-3 years. Pavlovsk lemon is a self-pollinating plant. Cross pollination is done artificially. Flower buds are laid and develop throughout the year. You can often see young ovaries, flowers, and mature fruits on the same specimen. But Pavlovsk lemon blooms profusely in March and April, and in the fall - in September-October. Each flower blooms for 7-10 days. The flowers are fragrant, solitary, 2-3 cm in diameter, but sometimes collected in small inflorescences. Pavlovsk lemon has several growth periods. The first period begins at the end of February and lasts until June. Then there is a short rest. From July 15-20, the second wave of growth begins. And the third - from about September 15 and ends at the end of October. During this period, the shoots can increase by 50-70 cm. Fruits are first formed in the third or fourth year after the slightly lignified green cuttings have rooted. High yields in tubs are produced by 15-20 year old plants - several dozen fruits. After flowering, the growth of the ovary and the ripening of the fruit lasts 8-9 months. The last stage of ripening is 30-35 days. If the plants are poorly lit, then the duration of ripening increases to 11-12 months. If a ripe lemon is not removed from the branch, its growth continues. The fruits acquire a green color, grow, and increase in volume. Pavlovsk lemons can ripen from 8 months to a year or more. Moreover, a partially yellowed lemon begins to turn green again and increase in size. Then within a few months it completely turns yellow. Sometimes a “full cycle” takes about a year and a half. A fully ripe Pavlova lemon is pure yellow in color. Pavlovsk lemon is large-fruited. Young, well-leafed bushes produce fruits weighing 300-540 g. The surface of the fruit can be smooth, shiny or to varying degrees rough and even slightly bumpy. The amount of vitamin C in the pulp varies from 25 to 57 milligrams per 100 grams of substance, and in the peel it is 1.5-2 times more. Acidity ranges from 4 to 7 percent, its ratio with sugar and aromatic substances is in most cases favorable. Average The thickness of the peel is 4 - 5 millimeters. The fruits are often seedless. But fruits with 5-10 seeds and multi-seeded ones (10-20) are also often found. Seeds with high viability. Their germination rate ranges from 80 to 90%. The fruits are in no way inferior to the best southern varieties. The amount of vitamin C in the pulp varies from 25 to 57 milligrams per 100 grams of substance, and in the peel it is 1.5-2 times more. Acidity ranges from 4 to 7 percent, its ratio with sugar and aromatic substances is in most cases favorable. Average peel thickness is 4 - 5 millimeters. Room conditions, not typical of the nature of citrus fruits, contributed to the appearance of deviant forms, which were fixed vegetatively (by cuttings). As a result, many different forms were formed, differing in growth strength, leaf shape, and especially in the shape, size, color, internal structure and taste of the fruit. Both high-quality and low-value forms are formed. But most of them are of high quality. Active artificial selection is underway. Pavlovsk lemon grows best on windows with an eastern orientation; on southern windows it often burns from direct sunlight. Easily propagated by green cuttings.
Panderosa (Ponderosa) A variety of indoor crops, a natural hybrid between lemon and pompelmus or citron; indoors it is a small compact bush with a beautiful decorative shape, very resistant to high temperatures and dry air; it begins to bear fruit in the 2nd year. The branches are strong, the leaves are dark green, smooth, hard, round in shape. It blooms profusely, the flowers are large, white-cream in color, often collected in inflorescences, but few fruits are set. True, they are larger in size than previous varieties, often weighing up to one kilogram. The pulp is pleasant, the lemon taste, and the characteristic citric acid in the fruit is almost not felt. The peel is thick, lumpy on top. The variety has proven itself well in indoor cultivation, thanks to its small crown volume and abundant flowering. Easily propagated by cuttings. Sometimes it begins to bloom already at the stage of rooted cuttings, which interferes with growth.
Jubilee lemon Mysterious variety. Here's what you can read about this variety on the Internet. “Obtained in Uzbekistan by grafting the Tashkent lemon variety onto the Novogruzinsky variety. At the same time, one of the branches began to grow quickly and produce gigantic fruits weighing up to one kilogram or more. This is a rare phenomenon of gigantism among plants. The Yubileiny variety turned out to be sterile in relation to any other varieties, although it cross-pollinates them. The endurance and yield of this variety is even higher than that of the Tashkent variety. Jubilee lemon deserves the attention of specialists and amateurs for its shade tolerance, productivity, unique ability to reproduce, grow, and almost 100% fruit set in conditions of low air and soil moisture.” This statement may be true, but what is alarming is that this variety is very similar to Panderosa in many ways. It is possible that he is a Panderosa hybrid or a clone. The tree is medium-sized: the height of an adult plant is no more than 1.5 m. It tolerates dry room air well and rarely needs crown formation. The variety is high-yielding, the fruits are large with thick skin, resistant to high temperatures and dry air, it begins to bear fruit in the 2nd year (in the picture there is a Jubilee lemon at the age of two years), but sometimes the fruits set in 1 year of life. It is very difficult to achieve growth from a tree; instead of new branches, bouquet branches with buds constantly appear, there are a lot of them on the tree - several such branches appear from each leaf axil, from each dormant bud. It blooms profusely, large flowers are collected in inflorescences of 10-15 pieces. When flowering, the tree turns into a white ball. (in this photo the Jubilee is blooming, 1 flower is left on each bouquet branch). The branches are strong, but droop under the weight of the fruit. The leaves are large, dark green, smooth, hard, round or oval.
Meyer lemon This variety of lemon is also often found among lovers; its origin is as mysterious as that of the Jubilee lemon. According to some sources, “Meyer” is considered the result of a long-standing natural hybridization of lemon and orange; according to others, it is a variety or hybrid of Cantonese lemon with an orange-red peel. Lemon owes its name to researcher Franz Meyer, who discovered it in Beijing; city residents grew lemon in pots. From China, lemon came to the United States, and in the early 30s it was introduced from the United States to the southern regions of the Soviet Union.
The variety is widespread in the open ground of the subtropics of the Black Sea coast, where it is grown on trifoliate rootstock. The tree is medium-sized, 1–1.5 m high, with a rounded, compact, well-leafed and easily shaped crown, with a small number of thorns. The leaves are dark green, shiny, dense, thick, ovoid, serrated. It stands out among other varieties due to its abundant fruiting and not very sour taste of the fruit. The weight of the fruit is 70-150 g. The maintainability, early ripening, and good fruiting of this variety make it promising for indoor cultivation, where it is grown on its own roots. It blooms earlier than other varieties, usually in March-April. Buds are formed only on the shoots of the current year. The flowers are white, very fragrant, smaller in size than other varieties (3-4 cm in diameter), single or arranged in clusters of 2-6 in an inflorescence. The fruits are round in shape, practically without a nipple, with a thin peel of bright yellow or orange color, ripen 8-9 months after ovary. Meyer lemon fruits are picked unripe, similar in color to the limequat fruit. The pulp consists of 6-10 cloves, tender, juicy, slightly bitter, containing 5% sugar. about 40% vitamin C and more than 20% vitamin P. The plant easily tolerates warm, dry air in living spaces when moistened in winter. Needs good lighting, prefers south-facing windows. It is easily propagated by cuttings, and when grown from seed it begins to bloom in the fifth year.
Novogruzinsky (Novo-Athos) lemon Selected by the breeder of the Sukhumi experimental station VIR N.M. Murri. On Georgian plantations it is considered the best in terms of yield and quality of fruits. The trees are vigorous, with a spreading, beautiful, well-leafed crown, reaching 1.5-2 m in height in a room and a large number of thorns. The leaves are light green, elongated with a pointed tip, average size 12 x 5 cm, very fragrant. Remontant variety. The flowers are large, the outer side of the petals has a purple tint. The New Georgian lemon blooms at 4-5 years of age, being a powerful tree. The fruits are almost without seeds and look very impressive on the tree. The shape of the fruit is elongated-oval, with a wide blunt nipple, the peel is smooth, glossy, up to 5 mm thick. The average fruit weight is 120 grams. The juicy and tender fine-grained pulp consists of 9-10 cloves, satisfies the most sophisticated taste, has a pleasant acidity and a very strong aroma. Chemical composition of the pulp: sugar - 1.7%, acid - 6%, vitamin C - more than 58 milligrams per 100 grams of substance. It begins to bear fruit later than the Pavlovsk lemon, by 4-5 years.
Maikop Lemon A variety of folk selection. Bred by seed propagation by selecting the best seedlings. Thus, over a period of more than a hundred years, individual plants were gradually selected and formed from the mass of grown seedlings, which then began to bear fruit, producing fruits of better quality than the original forms. Currently, several forms or types have been identified among Maikop lemons, which differ markedly from each other in a number of characteristics, here are two of them: 1st type. The trees form well almost without a trunk, giving a large, loose, well-leafed crown with an abundance of thin fruit branches. The branches are flexible, without thorns, mostly located horizontally, and some hanging down. The leaves are dark green, smooth with a waxy coating and almost smooth edges. Flowers and ovary are collected in brushes of 3-5 pieces. The fruits are rounded and elongated, not deformed, the nipple is medium, almost without a rim. The peel of the fruit is rough and thin. The aroma of the fruit is strong. The average weight of the fruit is 130-140 g. The trees are unpretentious, adapted to ordinary apartment conditions. 2nd type. The trees are formed with a symmetrical crown, having strong, stable branches without thorns, located semi-vertically. Leaves with smooth edges and noticeable veins. Fruit branches are located singly. The fruits are oblong, with a slight thickening at the top, slightly noticeable ribbing, are not deformed, the nipple is small without a rim. The peel of the fruit is thin, as if polished, with small dimples. The aroma of the fruit is good. The average weight of the fruit is 125-140 g. The trees are adapted to wintering in indoor conditions, but overwinter better in cold rooms. Here is what breeder V.M. Zinkovsky writes about this variety: “Maykop is famous for its indoor lemons, grown in tubs. 100-300 fruits are harvested from a tree annually, and there have been cases where harvests from a 30-year-old tree reached up to 750 fruits.” The height of Maikop lemons in rooms reaches 1.5-2 meters.
Lemon Genoa A weak-growing tree without thorns. A very productive variety: in the fourth or fifth year of life it produces about 50 fruits; an adult tree yields 120-180 fruits. The fruits are oblong-oval in shape, with a small sharp nipple at the top. The quality of the fruit is higher than that of other varieties, the pulp is very tender, juicy, sour, pleasant taste, the peel of the fruit is edible. Needs sufficient lighting (south, southeast window, loggia.)
To be continued... Article written by Alex
Citrus series of posts:
Part 1 - My favorite calamondin Part 2 - How to grow lemon at home? ... Part 22 - Citrus - care video Part 23 - Exotic and fruit plants at home - care and breeding Part 24 - Varieties and types of indoor citrus fruits, full list Part 1 Part 25 - Varieties and types of indoor citrus fruits. part 2. Part 26 - Varieties and types of indoor citrus fruits. part 3. Part 27 - Varieties and types of indoor citrus fruits. part 4 Part 28 - V.V. Dadykin, Citrus garden in the room - reference book
No. 3. Homemade tangerine.
To implement this idea, you need to buy several tangerines, and then remove at least 5 seeds from them. It is better to have more of them, because not all seeds can germinate. The seeds must be in a humid environment, so they must be moistened with water in order to ensure their swelling. To buy suitable soil, you need to go to a flower shop, where the seller can advise the necessary soil specifically for citrus fruits. Almost any soil mixture will be suitable for growing tangerines, as long as it is light.
Homemade tangerine. Photo: @all4sad
Subtleties of care.
The first shoots may not appear soon, for this the housewife needs to be patient. Only after a month can you notice the first emerging shoots of the citrus plant. Throughout its growth period, it is necessary to regularly and carefully care for the plant in order for it to bear fruit. The growth of this citrus fruit is very slow, and sometimes it can suddenly stop altogether. Mandarin is a light-loving plant, so the pot with the plant must be placed on a windowsill on the sunny side. Moreover, the plant must be supplied with light throughout the year at least 12 hours a day.
Watering the tangerine.
Abundant watering of the plant will also play an important role in its growth and development. We must not forget about watering and spraying the leaves. The air must be sufficiently humidified for the tangerine to grow and thrive. As the plant grows in size, it is necessary to transplant it into another pot. This procedure is best done at the end of winter. Tangerine fruits will delight you not only with their amazing taste and aroma, but also with their appearance.
Such a houseplant will fit perfectly into any interior, becoming its decoration and bright accent, pleasing the eyes of all household members and guests. The maximum height of the tree is only one and a half meters. Growing a tangerine at home is, undoubtedly, not such a difficult and overwhelming task, but it requires careful treatment and appropriate care for the plant.
Caring for indoor tangerine
No. 2. Homemade orange.
As everyone knows, a tree grows from a seed. So for an orange tree you will need a seed (preferably several, just in case) from a store-bought fruit. Selecting the largest seeds from the largest and ripest fruits will increase the likelihood of growing a healthy tree. But most likely, nothing will grow from flat and dried seeds. It is better to start this long but amazing journey of the plant in the spring, so that at the earliest stage of development it gets more light and warmth. The selected seeds are wrapped in a damp cloth and placed in a small container, covering it with a plastic bag on top. In the place where the container is located, maintain a temperature of 18 to 20 degrees, while regularly ventilating it and, if necessary, moistening the fabric.
Homemade oranges. Photo: @oksanabulycheva_
It takes three to five weeks for the small shoots to turn green. Then they are transplanted into small pots. They are filled like this: a small amount of expanded clay is placed down, leaf soil, turf soil, river sand and humus are mixed on top. Fragile sprouts are buried 1.5 centimeters deep and covered on the side with moistened soil. They now need to be regularly watered and sprayed with warm water that has stood for several days, and the larger the plants, the more water they require. When each plant has 4-6 leaves, it is time to transplant them into larger pots. At this stage, natural selection occurs, so you should not support noticeably lagging plants with additional lighting, watering, fertilizing, etc. You need to select the strongest ones - from them trees will grow.
When the plants reach 20 centimeters, the crown formation time begins. The crown is shaped by the tree owners themselves. To do this, they pinch off several leaves from the top of the oranges so that side branches appear - second-order branches. If the tops of these branches are also plucked, then branches of the third order will develop, etc. As the tree grows, the crown is developed so that branches of the fifth order grow: it is on them that the fruits will grow. For young oranges, the best temperature is 22 degrees. Air humidity is also important. You can place a pot of water or an indoor fountain next to the oranges.
Homemade oranges begin to bear fruit after 8-10 years - a considerable period. You can speed up this process and graft the tree with a branch from another orange that is already bearing fruit. Then the tree will bloom much earlier - after 4 years.
By the way, there is no need to let insects into your home to pollinate flowers. Oranges are self-pollinating plants. Maybe you shouldn't bother with grafting and let the tree grow as best it can. But the snow-white flowers and bright, lantern-like fruits will undoubtedly delight any gardener.
Orange in tub culture
Conditions for growing at home
Growing the described crop indoors is quite simple.
Location
All representatives of citrus fruits are very demanding of light, so it is necessary to place the pot on windows facing south or east. In addition, the tree should be provided with good ventilation, so ventilate the room regularly.
Temperature
Both excessively low temperatures and too high ones retard tree growth, so in summer try to keep the temperature in the room within +18...+26°C. In winter, coolness is necessary (+12…+16°C).
Important! Never expose your citrus tree to freezing temperatures.
Air humidity
Optimal air humidity is up to 70%. It is quite difficult to provide such conditions indoors. The situation is saved by regularly spraying the bush with warm water.
No. 4. Homemade lime.
People living in subtropical or tropical climates do not bother much about growing the lime tree, since there it does not require much care and grows everywhere almost like a weed. But those who annually enjoy snow outside their window will have to carefully care for the capricious plant.
Homemade lime. Photo: @ekzotik174
Externally, the lime tree is distinguished by its special beauty. Having dark shiny leaves, it gives a rich look to the interior, and therefore it is often used as a decorative houseplant.
Lime (the Latin name of the species is Citrus aurantiifolia) is a woody plant belonging to the citrus family. The closest relative is the lemon. This fruit-bearing tree was first discovered on the Malacca Peninsula, Southeast Asia.
Lime can grow as a shrub or tree with a huge number of branches that are completely covered with small thorns. The leaves are oval-shaped and dark green in color, measuring 6 by 4 cm. The flowers are small, no more than 2 cm in diameter, white. Inflorescences can be different, from 1 to 7 flowers. The fruits externally resemble a chicken egg and are light green in color. Lime blooms and bears fruit all year round.
Planting lime.
The first thing you need to decide is: buy an already planted tree in a store or try to grow it from a seed. If you want to start growing limes from scratch, the first thing you will need to do is look for a lime with a seed.
When the lime seed is already in your hands, first of all you need to dry it for a couple of hours, and then plant it in the prepared pot. The substrate should be based on sand with large grains of sand or ordinary soil for indoor flowers. After planting, the pot is covered with glass or a transparent plastic bag. The temperature for seed germination must be maintained around +25 degrees.
After a couple of months, the seed will sprout. But citrus fruits have a peculiarity - one seed can produce several sprouts. Let them grow until the sprouts form several young established leaves. You will need to take a close look at them and choose the strongest ones, and cut off those that are weak. Caring for the remaining sprouts at home should be extremely careful. After the young limes have grown a little, they can be planted in different containers with a diameter of no more than 7 cm.
Caring for a lime tree at home.
Location and lighting. Lime will feel great on a windowsill facing west and east. If all the windows face north, then the plant needs additional lighting. The total daylight hours should not be less than 10 hours; if possible, lighting can be provided for up to 14 hours.
Temperature. In order for the plant to grow fully in spring and summer, the air temperature should not exceed +35 degrees. In autumn, the temperature can gradually be reduced to +15 degrees. Such conditions are necessary for the formation of buds in an adult plant.
Air humidity. The air should have high humidity, as close as possible to the natural environment of the tropical forest. Therefore, lime benefits from spraying with water at room temperature. The water should be soft, preferably melt or rain, so that no white salt stains remain on the leaves. An alternative can be shower rinsing; for this it is necessary to cover the soil with polyethylene. If possible, place a humidifier or at least a container of water near the citrus plant.
Lime feeding. Between March and October, lime enters a stage of intensive growth, so it is necessary to feed it during this period. The best option would be to use specialized targeted fertilizers designed for citrus plants. As an organic fertilizer, you can use a solution based on mullein. Fertilizers should be applied 24 hours after watering the soil.
Watering the lime is done as needed, preventing the soil in the pot from completely drying out. The warmer and drier the surrounding air, the more often you should water. Water for irrigation should be extremely soft; this effect can be achieved by distillation. River, rain and melt water can also be used.
Transfer. Young limes require annual replanting. Transplantation is carried out in February - March. An adult tree does not require a complete replanting; it is enough to replace the top layer of substrate annually. When the roots begin to be visible from under the drainage holes, this should be taken as a signal about replanting. When choosing a pot for replanting your lime, make sure there are small holes in the bottom, or make them yourself. The first step is to fill in a layer of drainage material, and then, in fact, the soil itself. The transplantation must be carried out carefully so that the root system is not damaged; the best way is transshipment.
Lime pests.
Even if you follow all the recommendations, there is still a possibility of insects appearing. Lime pests are the same insects that threaten other citrus trees.
The most common lime pests are leaf beetles, scale insects, mites, and aphids.
In the spring, the lime harvest is always more intense, all because the insects disappear for the entire winter. The growing season is accompanied by active growth, and it is at this time that the likelihood of insect appearance increases significantly.
Improves well-being
All citrus fruits contain essential oils with phytoncidal properties. These substances released by their leaves and fruits have a beneficial effect on human health. They act as a natural antibiotic, purifying the indoor air from pathogenic viruses and bacteria. These substances are not visible to the eye, but their presence is easy to verify if you light a match nearby - sparks will flash in the air.
If there are such miniature trees in the house, its residents are less likely to suffer from colds and allergies, and their immunity becomes stronger. Therefore, such a tree would be good to place in a children’s room to protect the baby from the flu and acute respiratory infections. In addition, the aroma of these exotic plants has a positive effect on overall well-being, relieves headaches and relieves stress. Releases nervous tension and improves sleep.
Watering citrus fruits
For watering
, which must be combined with fertilizing, you should also use filtered or settled water, always warm (temperature not lower than 20–22 °C). How much water should you pour, what fertilizers should you add to it, and how much of them are needed? All these questions will definitely arise in your mind. Despite their love of moist air, citrus trees die from excessive watering. They should be watered moderately, especially in winter. Their leathery leaves evaporate little moisture, and therefore excess water leads to rotting of the roots. It is better to loosen the top layer of soil more often. With infrequent watering, the water should moisten the entire lump of earth. An indicator of sufficient watering is the appearance of water in the pan. I advise you to combine watering with weak mineral fertilizers (1 teaspoon per 5 liters of water).
Citrus pests
Citrus fruits grown in apartments can be attacked by pests - most often spider mites and scale insects . Whether it's a lemon on the windowsill or an orange, it's important to monitor the condition of the plants.
Spider mites develop on the undersides of leaf blades and in leaf corners where they spin fine webs. For treatment, it is necessary to rinse the plant for three weeks in the shower or wash it with a solution of denatured alcohol (four tablespoons per liter of water).
If ticks have attacked a large specimen, it needs to be treated with chemicals - Bifenthrin ( Talstar 100 ) or Karate 025 EC . Spray twice, with a two-week break (fruit can be eaten three weeks after the last treatment).
Also dangerous for citrus fruits are scale insects that settle on rasteria and suck out juices. In addition to sucking juice, they secrete a substance that interferes with the process of photosynthesis and respiration. Infected specimens grow poorly, and their leaves turn yellow and fall off.
Scale insects need to be washed off the leaves with a denatured solution, as is the case with mites. You can use Actellik 500 EC .
Sometimes white flakes appear on the back of the leaves, indicating the presence of flour beetles. To combat pests, the plant also needs to be washed.
Citrus trees can also be infected with citrus infectious diseases. The most common fungal-based disease is lemon anthracnose . In the case of anthracnose, brown, oval or round spots appear on the leaves, often with dark semi-circles. These spots contain clusters of fungal spores. At a further stage of development of the disease, the leaves fall. Spraying with fungicides such as Skor 250 EC and Topsin M . The treatment must be repeated using alternating preparations. You can also use biological products such as Fitoverm, Iskra, Bitoxibacillin. Spraying should be repeated every 7-10 days
Chemicals should be used outside the apartment, for example on the balcony. Plants can be returned to the living room after two days.
