Spathiphyllum - 151 photos of different types and varieties, care at home

Types of spathiphyllum

Many novice flower growers believe that drimiopsis is a type of spathiphyllum. But these are two completely different plants. Depending on the size, growth characteristics and appearance, several varieties of flowers are distinguished.

profusely blooming

It got its name due to its abundant and long flowering, for which it gained popularity among flower growers.

With proper care, the plant blooms almost all year round.

Cannofolia

In the wild, it is most common in Thailand and Venezuela. The leaves are ovoid in shape and have a fairly rich green color.

The plant is famous for its fragrant aroma. The green-yellow cob is surrounded by green-white leaves.

Charming

It differs from other species in its large matte leaves, reaching a length of 25 cm and a width of 10 cm. They are very pleasant to the touch. The flower is greenish in color. After it withers, even more chloroplasts are formed in the “blanket”.

Spoon-shaped

Found in the wild in Brazil. The bush can grow up to 1 meter in length and is very thermophilic. The dark green leaves are shiny, in appearance they resemble a spoon, as they are slightly elongated and are distinguished by the presence of a wavy edge.

The petiole grows up to 70 cm. The cob is covered with a long oval-shaped blanket. The flowers are snow-white. The plant has a long flowering period.

Wallis

In Russia, this type of “female happiness” came from the tropical forests of Colombia. Grows up to 30 cm in length. The foliage is dark green in color and oblong in shape.

The blanket that wraps the cob is much longer than it. Spathiphyllum Wallis is excellent for growing at home and, with proper care, blooms for a long time.

Heliconifolia

Loves moist soil and in nature prefers tropical rainforests. Found in Brazil. The plant grows up to 1 meter in height.

The leaves are elongated, shiny, up to 25 cm wide, and reach half a meter in length. The foliage has a wavy edge. The inflorescence is very small and does not exceed 10 cm in height and has a color similar to that of the petiole. This species is excellent for home growing.

What does spathiphyllum look like - a brief description

The tropical forests of South America are considered the birthplace of the flower. In its natural habitat it grows near rivers and lakes. The plant was discovered in the 19th century by German botanist Gustav Wallis. It came to Europe in the mid-20th century and began to be grown as an ornamental species.

Spathiphyllum indoor

Botanical description

The height of the bush, depending on the variety, can be from 0.3 to 1.5 meters. The leaf blades are lanceolate or oval in shape, with an almost invisible vein in the middle. The shade can be speckled, dark green or variegated (depending on the variety). When flowering, peduncles with a yellow or white cob appear among the leaves, around which snow-white bracts are located. Spathiphyllum (or female happiness) belongs to the Aroid plants. There are 40 known species of perennials.

Additional Information! The flowering period lasts 1-2 months and can occur from early spring to late autumn.

Useful and dangerous properties

Homemade varieties of spathiphyllum can bring both benefit and harm to humans. Women's happiness has more advantages than disadvantages. Growing it at home is useful for the following reasons:

the leaves have an accelerated process of ozone production, which makes it easier to breathe near the plant;
bright appearance improves mood;
It is believed that the flower has good energy, which has a beneficial effect on concentration and performance.

The disadvantages include the following:

the flower is poisonous, so it is placed away from animals and children;
during the flowering period may cause an allergic reaction.

Similarities and differences with anthurium

Flower growers often wonder: are spathiphyllum and anthurium the same plant or not? In fact, these are two varieties belonging to the same family, Araceae. You can distinguish them from each other by the following characteristics:

leaf shape;
color and size of the bract;
the anthurium petal is glossy and denser to the touch;
spathiphyllum is less capricious to care for.

The homeland of both species is America (southern region). They have similar inflorescences and, in general, the rules for care are almost the same - the flowers do not like bright sunlight and drafts.

Additional Information! Many gardeners grow plants in pairs - this way they look more harmonious.

Inflorescence colors

Spathiphyllum has many types and varieties. Many believe that the inflorescence of a flower can be not only white, but also pink, red, green or yellow. But that's not true. The red flower has an anthurium that looks like “female happiness.”

Coloring the inflorescence in different colors is only possible artificially using special dyes. In nature, spathiphyllum is only white. At different flowering periods, some varieties exhibit a light cream or greenish color.

Spathiphyllum Picasso

Based on Spathiphyllum Wallis, Dutch breeders obtained a variegated variety that is even more interesting than Domino. Its white color occupies entire sectors of the leaf plate. Spathiphyllum Picasso is a godsend for gardeners who do not have the opportunity to painstakingly care for plants and who love unusual crops.

The plant, like all spathiphyllums, is unpretentious and demanding only in terms of lighting, which should be bright, but not scorching. A special feature of this variety is the variegated color of not only the foliage, but also the graceful perianth with a pointed tip.

Conditions for keeping spathiphyllum at home

In order for a flower to please with abundant and long-lasting flowering and gorgeous foliage, it is necessary to observe special conditions for its maintenance. It’s not difficult at all, the main thing is to take into account all the tips and recommendations and choose the most suitable place.

Temperature

In summer, a temperature of 20 to 27 degrees is suitable for him. This way the plant grows well and receives the necessary amount of heat. When the temperature in the room is above 30 degrees, it is not worth keeping the flower there for a long time.

In winter, spathiphyllum tolerates temperatures of 16 degrees. But it is not advisable to keep it on a windowsill where it is drafty. The plant is afraid of drafts.

Humidity indicators

In the wild, spathiphyllum grows in tropical rainforests and in areas near swamps. Therefore, it is important for the plant to provide a normal level of humidity. With a lack of water, flowering will be poor and the leaves will dry out.

“Women's happiness” loves to be sprayed. It is important to ensure that drops of water do not fall on the flower itself. But it is important not to overdo it, as constant humidity will lead to rotting of the roots.

Lighting

Spathiphyllum is afraid of direct sunlight. At the same time he loves light. The thing is that ultraviolet light burns the leaves.

Many varieties are able to grow normally in a shaded place. But insufficient light will cause the color of the leaves to become dull, and the leaf itself will stretch and change its shape.

Where to keep

Spathiphyllum will grow well in almost any corner of the house. But it should not be placed on a windowsill where there are drafts. Then the plant will constantly get sick, grow poorly and may die.

The ideal place for “female happiness” would be a well-lit area of the apartment. In winter, a window facing south is suitable, and in summer – facing north. Important to remember. That spathiphyllum does not tolerate sudden climate changes, so its location should be changed as rarely as possible.

Spathiphyllum cannofolia

The Spathiphyllum Cannifolium plant has the densest and narrowest leaves of all related species, up to 40 cm long.

The front side of the bract is white, and the “back side” has a pronounced green tint. The length of the spathe of this large, attractive plant is 10–22 cm. This is twice the size of the white or yellowish cob. The peculiarities of the species are that the inflorescences have a pronounced aroma, and the cob itself is not tuberous, but smooth. In nature, plants of this species can be found in the tropical forests of South America, as well as in Trinidad.

Caring for spathiphyllum at home

Caring for spathiphyllum at home is not difficult. He needs to be provided with all the necessary conditions, such as soil, a pot, and proper watering.

Priming

“Women's Happiness” loves loose soil that easily allows air and water to pass through. To prepare the soil yourself, you will need to mix:

Turf soil - 2 parts.
Humus - 0.5 parts.
Leaf soil - 2 parts.
Peat – 1 part.
River sand – 1 part.

For spathiphyllum, you can purchase ready-made soil. A substrate for aroids is suitable for it. It is recommended to add a small amount of charcoal to it. This will make the soil looser.

Tara

The plant really likes close quarters. Therefore, you should not choose a wide pot. If you plant a flower where there is a lot of space, it will not bloom for a long time. Therefore, before replanting, it is better to choose a pot that is slightly larger than before.

The material from which the container for the plant will be made is not particularly important. But it is recommended to opt for ceramics or a small wooden tub, especially for the Sensation variety.

Watering

The plant needs to be irrigated all year round. In summer, autumn and spring, watering should be more abundant than in winter. Water must be left standing before use. If liquid has accumulated in the pan, it must be drained to prevent the roots from rotting.

The water temperature should be between 18-23 degrees. Watering is carried out when the top layer of soil in the pot is dry. But it is best to water the plant by pouring water into the pan.

Fertilizer (feeding)

For good growth and abundant flowering, the plant needs to be fed regularly, since it does not receive enough nutrients from water and soil. During the flowering period, fertilizers are applied twice a week, and in winter - once a month. Organic matter is used as fertilizer. A solution of bird droppings works well. You can also purchase special complex fertilizers in special stores.

Trimming

In order for the plant to feel good, grow and bloom well, it must be pruned. Remove dry and diseased leaves. They are trimmed with scissors or special pruners as needed.

Zinnia from Seeds: 5 Helpful Growing Tips

Transfer

The flower is replanted in the spring. Choose a pot slightly larger than the previous one. Replanting is carried out annually in the first five years, then as needed, when root shoots begin to creep through the drainage.

If the bush does not exceed 40 cm in height and the diameter of the pot is 20 cm, then only the top layer of soil can be replaced.

Before the procedure, the soil must be well moistened and the side shoots must be cut off. Place a drainage layer on the bottom of the new pot, about 5 cm of new moistened soil. Transplantation is carried out using the transshipment method. This way the plant will be less stressed. The plant is not watered for the first 3 days. Just spraying is enough.

Rejuvenation

When spathiphyllum needs to be rejuvenated, a simple transplant is not enough. To do this you need:

Prepare the pots.
Carefully dig up the flower.
Divide the curtain into several parts.
Remove all old leaves and rotten roots.
Disinfect the roots and dry them slightly.
Plant full-fledged plants directly into the soil, having first poured a drainage layer into the pot.

Rhizomes that are left without rosettes can be planted in a small but wide pot and covered with film. This will create a greenhouse effect.

In autumn and dormant season

In autumn, when the flowers have faded, they are carefully removed. This is necessary so that they do not take away nutrients and water.

In winter, spathiphyllum moves from the flowering stage to the growth phase. Therefore, it needs good lighting. In winter, it is better to place it on a window facing south. It is recommended to provide additional lighting. This can be done by installing a special phytolamp. It is fixed so that the angle of inclination is about 70 degrees.

For a plant, the normal ambient temperature is 18-20 degrees. But it is important that the flower does not stand in a draft. Watering is reduced in winter and showers are completely eliminated. But if the apartment is hot, the leaves are sprayed with a spray bottle.

Diseases and pests

Spathiphyllum Picasso can be attacked by mealybugs. To protect against it, the plant is treated with phytoverm once every seven days. Treating the leaves with a soap solution helps a lot, and the pest is collected by hand.
Spider mites are killed with a soap solution containing nicotine sulfate. After treatment, the leaves are not washed out, but left for 12 hours. After the specified time, the sheet plates are washed with clean water. At this time, the soil must be covered with film.

Spathiphyllum Picasso needs constant care. If you regularly carry out all care procedures, the plant will reward you with lush and unusual flowering.

Reproduction of spathiphyllum

Spathiphyllum is usually propagated in the spring, during a planned transplant. This way the plant will be less stressed, and the new shoots will have time to get stronger before winter.

By dividing the rhizome

Propagation by dividing the rhizome is the most common method. To do this, carefully remove the flower from the pot and carry out a careful inspection. It is divided in such a way that on each new fragment a growth point remains, as well as 2-4 leaves. This is the place near the rhizome where a new leaf begins to unfurl.

The mother plant is planted in the same pot where it grew, and fresh soil is added.

New bushes are planted in pre-prepared pots with moist soil. For the rooting process to be successful, it is better to cover them with a plastic bag to create a greenhouse effect.

Seeds

The plant can be propagated through seeds. But this method has a significant drawback: the new flower does not always retain the characteristic features of the mother one. This applies most of all to those varieties that were bred by crossing.

Among other things, the seeds are not stored for a long time. If you are late with sowing, their germination rate will be very low. Spathiphyllum, grown from a seed, grows and develops slowly. It may not bloom for a long time.

Step-by-step reproduction instructions

Spathiphyllum Picasso is propagated by dividing the bush. This procedure is carried out in early spring.

Reproduction instructions:

Remove the flower from the pot after soaking the soil.
Cut off dry and damaged root shoots and treat the cut areas with charcoal.
After this, the bush is divided. Each seedling must have at least three leaves.
Place drainage at the bottom of the pot and sprinkle with earth.
Place the seedling in a flowerpot and cover it with soil without pressing the shoot.
Moisten the soil abundantly.

If there are no roots on the shoot, it is placed in water to grow the root system.

Bloom

“Women's happiness” is loved by many gardeners for its unusual flowering. The flower itself looks more like a white leaf. Moreover, many plant varieties have a very pleasant aroma.

Timing and duration

Spathiphyllum blooms from mid-spring to autumn, provided proper care is taken. The duration is from 5 to 6 months.

In winter, the plant rests and gains strength.

Features of care during flowering

When a flower appears, the bush requires a special approach. First of all, fertilizers are applied twice a week. This will allow you to get abundant and long-lasting flowering.

The flower pot does not need to be placed in direct sunlight. In summer, the ideal place for the plant would be a north window. Watering should also be quite abundant. But don't overdo it. I water the flower as the top layer of soil dries out.

Doesn't bloom

The reason for the lack of flowering is most often a large pot. Spathiphyllum loves close quarters. Until its roots fill the entire space of the pot, it will not bloom.

Also, the lack of flowers can be caused by insufficient light. It is enough to rearrange the pot, and soon the plant will delight you with beautiful snow-white flowers.

Small flowers

Almost all varieties of “female happiness” boast large flowers. But in the case when they are small, the reason should be sought in fertilizers. Plants simply do not have enough nutrients to fully bloom.

The flower is fertilized 1-2 times a week with organic fertilizers. If even after this the plant does not produce large flowers, it is recommended to rejuvenate it.

The color has changed

Spathiphyllum is famous for its large white flowers. Towards the end of flowering they begin to turn green and then fade. Therefore, if it has changed color, do not worry. It is enough to cut it off at the base of the peduncle. Soon the plant will delight you with new flowers.

Flowers don't open

The reasons for flowers not opening may be insufficient watering, poor lighting or lack of nutrients.

The plant needs to be moved to a well-lit place, but not in direct sunlight, fertilized and provided with proper watering.

Spathiphyllum Sensation

This spathiphyllum hybrid can easily be considered one of the most decorative and spectacular. Spathiphyllum Sensation bushes can reach one and a half meters in height. This makes the variety one of the largest among existing indoor varieties.

The plant has large attractive leaves of a dark, shiny color and a length of 40 to 80 cm. The large inflorescences of Spathiphyllum Sensation also greatly benefit from other similar varieties. Only appearing above the foliage, the perianths are white. Then they gradually turn green and merge into the general background. The ear is large, smoother than that of other plants. At the same time, the spathiphyllum flower, as in the photo, lasts for a very long time.

Among other tall varieties of spathiphyllum, one should note Sweet Silvio, a hybrid origin with graceful inflorescences and lush bushes up to 75 cm high. Against the background of this large variety, Strauss spathiphyllum plants, 30 cm in height, look especially miniature.

Pests

“Women’s happiness,” like any plant, is susceptible to pests. They destroy leaves, flowers and roots. If you don't fight them, the flower will die.

Spathiphyllum most often suffers from aphids. It affects the reverse side of the leaf. It looks like a cluster of small green bugs. You can get rid of parasites with the help of Phytofarm. Spray the plant with the product according to the instructions on the package. If the affected area is small, it is enough to wash off the aphids with a warm shower. In order to prevent damage, it is important to monitor the level of humidity in the room.

Spathiphyllum is also susceptible to the spread of spider mites. The insect is very small in size. Its presence can be determined by the presence of a light white cobweb. The tick feeds on the sap of the plant. You can get rid of it using products such as Actellik or Aktara. In order to prevent the appearance of ticks, you need to monitor the level of humidity in the room.

Features and photo of spathiphyllum flower

Spathiphyllum, like many plants living in tropical and subtropical zones, does not shed its leaves all year round, remaining green and attractive. The leaves of the plant are quite large, elongated-lanceolate, with depressed veins and a glossy surface.

Since spathiphyllum has practically no stem, or it is very shortened and spreads along the ground, the leaves rise directly from the ground. And during the flowering period, graceful peduncles with white bracts surrounding a white or yellowish cob rise above the plants. Contrary to popular belief, the photo shows not a spathiphyllum flower, but its inflorescence. But small flowers collected in a cob have neither petals nor external attractiveness.

Therefore, during the course of evolution, the plant acquired a white and then green bract. It is like a flag, attracting the attention of insects. Today, botanists know more than four dozen species of spathiphyllum. Only a few varieties are used as indoor crops and for landscaping. The most common inhabitants of window sills are plants belonging to the species Spathiphyllum Floribundum and Wallisii.

Diseases

Improper care can lead to the development of a number of diseases:

Root rot. The reasons are too much watering or insufficiently loose soil. You can get rid of it by removing the affected roots and treating the remaining ones with Glyocladin. It is recommended to transplant the flower into more suitable soil and water it properly.
Gommoz. These are bacterial infections that cause the leaves to wilt. Affected leaves should be removed and the plant should be washed with laundry soap.
Phytosporosis. Fungal infection, in which the root system becomes soft and dies. Occurs when there is excessive watering or contaminated soil. Spathiphyllum needs to be transplanted into dry soil and watered as the top layer dries out.

To prevent the development of diseases, it is necessary to properly care for the flower and provide it with good conditions.

Planting gloxinia tubers: 5 useful tips to avoid making mistakes at the initial stage

Spathiphyllum growing / Spathiphyllum, overview of varieties and contents

Features of hybrid spathiphyllums and their care

Spathiphyllum is one of the most popular plants for landscaping apartments, offices and winter gardens.

It came to Europe back in the 19th century and still firmly holds the first position in the list of the most unpretentious plants in indoor culture.

Numerous flower shops sell a huge number of different hybrids, from babies 15 cm tall to one and a half meter giants.

Dutch hybrids:

spathiphyllum Sensation (Spathiphyllum "Sensation", "Sensation") - probably the most famous and most spectacular, giant, adult plant height - up to 1.5 m, width - up to 2 m, leaf plate length - up to 60 cm and width - up to 30 cm.

spathiphyllum Sensation

spathiphyllum Sensation spathiphyllum Sensation spathiphyllum Sensation spathiphyllum Sensation spathiphyllum Sensation spathiphyllum Sensation

spathiphyllum Sweet Lauretta (Spathiphyllum "Sweet Lauretta") - large spathiphyllum, up to 80 cm high and up to 1 m wide:

spathiphyllum Sweet Lauretta

spathiphyllum Sweet Lauretta spathiphyllum Sweet Lauretta

spathiphyllum Сhopin (Spathiphyllum Chopin) - medium size, up to 50 cm in height and width

spathiphyllum Сhopin

spathiphyllum Сhopin spathiphyllum Сhopin

spathiphyllum Tango (Tango spathiphyllum) - medium-sized, adult plant height - 50 cm, the same width

spathiphyllum tango

spathiphyllum Tango spathiphyllum Tango spathiphyllum Tango

spathiphyllum Verdi (Spathiphyllum "Verdi") - a miniature spathiphyllum, about 30-35 cm in height and as much as wide

spathiphyllum Verdi

spathiphyllum Verdi spathiphyllum Verdi

Despite the fact that the genus Spathiphyllum includes about 40 species native to the tropical regions of America and South Asia, American species took almost no part in hybridization, and almost everything you see on the market now are hybrids of Asian species. Finding specific spathiphyllums is now almost impossible, and is it really necessary when there is such a variety of unpretentious and highly decorative hybrids on the market.

Among the species that took an active part in hybridization, I would like to mention the following:

Spathiphyllum cannifolium

- a fairly tall spathiphyllum, up to 70-80 cm, with large ovoid leaves, a spectacular and capricious appearance, requires high air humidity, does not like when the root system is disturbed. During the adaptation period, its hybrids require greenhouse conditions and often shed the entire root system, but this is not a big problem if this moment is monitored in time. If after receiving and planting, after a week in a greenhouse, the leaves are still not turgor, it makes sense to remove the plant from the pot and inspect the root system. If the root system is necrotic, it is necessary to completely remove all rotten roots. Don’t be alarmed, even if you have to remove all the roots, there’s nothing wrong with that, the rhizome must be treated with a fungicide (Fundazol, Maxim), dry a little (a couple of hours is enough) and planted again in clean soil. As a rule, after a week or two, spathiphyllum begins to grow new roots and successfully adapts. Does not tolerate waterlogging, especially at the adaptation stage. However, if you find a common language with this spathiphyllum, you will be fully rewarded - cannoleaf spathiphyllum and its hybrids are distinguished by a velvety, sparkling in the sun, textured leaf surface, which no one else has.

Spathiphyllum cannifolium

Hybrids based on Spathiphyllum cannofolia:

Note: Here and further, when I write the specific name of the cultivars before the name of the variety, it means that this species took part in hybridization, however, in fact, the cultivars are not a variety of this species, they are hybrid, and it is correct to write Spathiphyllum hybr. cv Gold Satin (Spathiphyllum hybrid “Gold Satin”, “Golden Atlas”), however, I would like to draw your attention to exactly which spathiphyllum exactly took part in the hybridization. Unfortunately, it is not possible to track the entire chain of participants in the creation of a particular variety.

(Spathiphyllum cannofolia “Gold Satin”, “Golden Atlas”) is a very beautiful spathiphyllum, with lemon-chartreuse-colored leaves, but like the species, it is very sensitive to air humidity. If the air in the room is too dry, it will inevitably dry out the tips of the leaves, which will greatly spoil its appearance. The velvety surface of the leaf resembles a golden-colored satin fabric; in the sun it also sparkles and plays. An adult bush is shorter than the species cannofolia and is rarely taller than 50 cm.

Spathiphyllum cannifolium Gold Satin 20-50

Typically the leaves have a relatively uniform yellow color:

Spathiphyllum cannifolium Gold Satin 20-50

But in individual rosettes there will be unstable variegation (unstable means unstable transmission, and even the next leaf in the same rosette will not necessarily be variegated):

Spathiphyllum cannifolium Gold Satin 20-50

It is possible for a rosette to appear in a bush even with this type of variegation:

Spathiphyllum cannifolium Gold Satin 20-50

But, I repeat, this variegation is not stable, and there is no guarantee that even within the same outlet it will be stable. It should be noted that this cultivar very willingly produces daughter rosettes, producing long underground stons, so by purchasing one rosette of the normal yellow-leaved Spathiphyllum cannifolium Gold Satin (Spathiphyllum cannifolium Gold Satin), you have every chance, when it grows, to get all the options within the bush colors shown above.

(Spathiphyllum cannofolia with white variegation) is another spathiphyllum worthy of attention. This variety is not as sensitive to air humidity as Spathiphyllum cannifolium Gold Satin. The height of an adult plant is up to 60 cm. Young leaves unfold with splashy white variegation, old lower leaves turn green, this is a kind of survival mechanism for this variety, the plant needs green cells capable of fully producing chlorophyll. A similar protective mechanism is observed in hostas, the White Feather variety and the like. Stable variegation, but some rosettes are prone to reversion - if the young leaves of this cultivar grow green, consider yourself unlucky, this rosette is trying to recover to a normal green form, and it is likely that it will succeed.

Spathiphyllum cannifolium (White variegated) 30

Spathiphyllum cannifolium (White variegated)

(Spathiphyllum cannofolia “Silver Dust”, “Silver Dust”) is a rare cultivar, slightly larger than the two previous cultivars, the height of an adult bush is up to 70 cm, a characteristic feature is variegation in the form of white streaks, randomly located over the entire surface of the leaf. A strong, unpretentious plant, quite tolerant of dry air.

Spathiphyllum cannifolium 'Silver Dust' 30

Spathiphyllum blandum (lovely spathiphyllum) - the height of an adult bush is 60-70 cm, unpretentious, can withstand low lighting, the species grows slowly, hybrids do not suffer from this disadvantage.

Spathiphyllum blandum

Hybrids based on spathiphyllum

adorable:

(Spathiphyllum charming “Black Beauty”, “Black Beauty”) - was previously erroneously listed in the catalog as a cannofolia hybrid. The cultivar, characterized by a very dark leaf color, glossy, dark green leaf plate, looks especially impressive against the background of yellow-leaved cultivars, which favorably set off its unusually dark greenery. The height of an adult bush is up to 60 cm, an unpretentious variety, it keeps shade well, but for intense leaf color, of course, it needs bright, diffused light; in a too shaded place it will produce etiolated shoots, the color of which will be green, the usual color for spathiphyllums.

Spathiphyllum blandum Black Beauty 25

(Spathiphyllum delightful "Spilt Milk", "Spilled Milk") - was previously erroneously listed in the catalog as a cannofolia hybrid. A very spectacular and unpretentious spathiphyllum, it holds color well even in low light conditions, young plants have an elongated and narrow leaf plate, an adult specimen has a rounded leaf, with a pronounced thin tip, corrugated along the edge of the leaf, the color of the outer surface of the leaf is glossy grayish-bluish, as if milk had actually been spilled on it, the underside of the leaf is light green. A strong, unpretentious variety, the height of an adult plant is up to 60 cm, tolerates manipulations with the root system, easily tolerates dry air in apartments, and grows quickly.

Spathiphyllum Spilt Milk

Spathiphyllum blandum 'Spilt Milk' 16-25-50

The variety retains the color of the leaf blades well when propagated by tissue culture, and therefore, one of the most common varieties that are reproduced by microcloning, and plants are obtained that repeat the color of the leaf of the mother plant, but can give a fairly large scatter in other characteristics, including , shape and size of the leaf plate. As a result of propagation by tissue culture, a mutation appeared with a narrow, atypical leaf shape, which persists into adulthood, Spathiphyllum blandum 'Spilt Milk' narrow leave clone .

In an adult Spilt milk (spilt milk, spilled milk), young leaves unfold the color of baked milk, then, as they mature, the leaf becomes bluish-gray. In terms of color, Spilt Milk and its mutation, obtained as a result of propagation by tissue culture Spilt Milk Nerrow Liv, are no different, it’s just that young plants do not demonstrate all varietal qualities, and to an uninitiated lover of spathiphyllums it may seem that there are several different variations of this spathiphyllum with different leaf colors the plates, however, are simply variations in the unstable coloration of the young plant. You don’t need to buy all the Spilt Milks that are offered to you; you need to wait until they reach their strength and age to see the whole palette of colors.

Another very interesting hybrid, spathithyllum hybrid South Thailand white splash = spathiphyllum Old Ghost / spathiphyllum “Old Ghost”, “Old Ghost”

Young leaves unfold with a pronounced milky-white splashy variegation, the leaves turn green with age:

spathithyllum hybrid South Thailand white splash

Quite a large spathiphyllum, up to 80 cm in height, a spreading bush, not capricious, but at the adaptation stage it can react to waterlogging of the soil by rotting the root system.

spathithyllum hybrid South Thailand white splash

Spathiphyllum cochlearispathum (spoon-shaped spathiphyllum)

- the largest spathiphyllum, up to 1-1.5 m high, with oblong-elliptical leaves. The length of the leaves is up to 40 cm, width - up to 25 cm. The leaf blade is dark green, glossy, wavy at the edges. This species is native to the tropical rainforests of Brazil and does not like dry air. Hybrids of this species are among the most spectacular, but in order to get a truly grandiose specimen, you need to take care of humidifying the air in winter. For the adaptation period, we need a greenhouse; the root plant, unlike the cannoleaf plant, sheds infrequently, but if this suddenly happens, there is no need to be alarmed, we remove all necrotic tissue, treat the rhizome with a fungicide and plant it, with the obligatory maintenance in the greenhouse for a couple of weeks. The intensity of variegated segments in variegated cultivars depends on the brightness of the lighting; with a lack of light, the variegation significantly dims.

Spathiphyllum cochlearispathum

Hybrids based on spathiphyllum spoon-shaped:

Spathiphyllum cochlearispathum 'Sunny Sails'(white form) and Spathiphyllum cochlearispathum 'Sunny Sails'(yellow form) - comparison

(Spathiphyllum spoon-shaped “Sunny Sales”, “Solar Sails”, yellow variegation) - was previously erroneously listed in the catalog as a cannofolia hybrid. Potentially the largest of the cultivars presented in this article, height up to 120 cm, the same in diameter of the bush. A variegated form of the famous Dutch hybrid Sensation.

Spathiphyllum cochlearispathum 'Sunny Sails' (yellow form)

(Spathiphyllum spoon-shaped “Sunny Sales”, “Solar Sails”, white variegation) - was previously erroneously listed in the catalog as a cannofolia hybrid. Another form, similar to the previous one, but with white variegation.

Spathiphyllum cochlearispathum 'Sunny Sails'(white form)

Spathiphyllum cochlearispathum 'Sunny Sails' (white form) and spathiphyllum sp ex Thailand white variegated

Spathiphyllum cochlearispathum 'Sunny Sails'(white form) and spathiphyllum sp ex Thailand white variegated

spathithyllum Sunny Sails (white form) = Sensation white variegated

For comparison with the well-known Spathiphyllum cv “Picasso”: spathithyllum Sunny Sails has a much more impressive adult size, its leaf blade is denser and wider. In terms of care, spathithyllum Sunny Sails is much less capricious and much more tolerant of the dry air of our apartments.

Spathiphyllum cv "Picasso"

Similar to Spathiphyllum cv "Picasso", but slightly larger - spathiphyllum sp ex Thailand white variegated:

spathiphyllum sp ex Thailand white variegated

Spathiphyllum wallisii (Wallich's spathiphyllum)

- the most compact, unpretentious of the presented species, hybrids based on it are from 15 to 40 cm in height, tolerant of dry air in apartments, cultivars easily adapt after the stress of moving and are favorable to manipulations with the root system:

Spathiphyllum wallisii Photo from the Internet, author unknown

Hybrids based on Spathiphyllum Wallich:

(Spathiphyllum “Angel Baby”, “Angel Baby”) - a dwarf cultivar, the height of an adult bush is no higher than 25 cm, a narrow lanceolate leaf, splashy variegation, stable, brighter in good lighting, in the shade the white areas fade:

Spathiphyllum-'Angel-Baby'

Spathiphyllum 'Angel Baby'

(Spathiphyllum "City of Angel", "City of Angel") - the older brother of Spathiphyllum 'Angel Baby', juvenile rosettes are very reminiscent of spathiphyllum "Angel Baby", but adult rosettes are much larger, up to 50 cm, the leaves of an adult plant become wider and change shape from lanceolate to oval-lanceolate. In one bush there will be both types of leaves at the same time:

Spathiphyllum 'City of Angel'

Spathiphyllum 'City of Angel' 25

Spathiphyllum-'City-of-Angel'-and-Spathiphyllum-'Angel-Baby'

(Spathiphyllum Manua Loa, white variegated form) is a variegated form of the well-known cultivar Manua Loa, one of the oldest spathiphyllum hybrids. Absolutely unpretentious, withstands all the difficulties of life, perfect for beginners. The height of an adult bush is up to 50 cm.

Spathiphyllum Manua Loa (White variegated) 30

(Spathiphyllum “Lemon Glow”, “Shining Lemon”) - the lemon color of glossy, shiny leaves leaves no one indifferent, compact spathiphyllum, the height of an adult plant is no higher than 40 cm. In the shade it loses its brightness and becomes chartreuse, in deep shade it turns green, but restores color saturation while providing good lighting levels.

spathiphyllum Lemon Glow 30

( Spathiphyllum “Moon Shadow”, “Shadow of the Moon”) - similar to Spathiphyllum Manua Loa (White variegated), but the variegation is yellow:

spathiphyllum Moon Shadow 30

(Spathiphyllum "New Van", "New") - bright, with white segments, sometimes Spathiphyllum 'City of Angel' is offered instead, however, these two cultivars are united only by the growth pattern and leaf shape; they differ significantly from each other in the type of variegation , Spathiphyllum New One has pronounced white areas even when young, which do not lose their brightness in low light.

Spathiphyllum New One 20-30

spathiphyllum sp ex Thailand white variegated and Spathiphyllum New One

(Spathiphyllum “Silver Rain”, “Silver Rain”) - is very reminiscent of the well-known Domino, has the same “repressed” leaf structure and growth pattern, but, in my opinion, there are still some differences - the leaf is a little wider, and the variegation brighter, the height of an adult bush is about 60 cm. A completely unpretentious variety, suitable for beginners.

Spathiphyllum 'Silver Rain' 35

(Spathiphyllum “Silver Rain Dwarf”, “Silver Rain”, dwarf variety) - a compact form of the previous spathiphyllum, the height of the bush is usually 35 cm, the leaf is narrow, lanceolate, with an unusual torn edge and a relief surface of the leaf, along which splashes of white variegation are scattered.

Spathiphyllum 'Silver Rain' dwarf

Spathiphyllum 'Silver Rain' dwarf 35

Spathiphyllum 'Silver Rain' dwarf

I often hear the question: is Spathiphyllum 'Silver Rain' dwarf not the well-known Spathiphyllum "Domino"? No, these are different cultivars, look at the comparative photographs below - the questions will disappear by themselves, "Domino" has a compressed leaf texture, but the leaf blade is wider, and the type of variegation is slightly different, it is very difficult to explain with your fingers, but if you put it side by side, the difference is obvious :

Spathiphyllum-Domino

Spathiphyllum-Domino-and-Spathiphyllum-'Silver-Rain'-dwarf

Another relatively recently appeared hybrid on the market, which goes by different names, including the name “Delhi” (Deli, Delhi), but I have great doubts about the legitimacy of this name, so I prefer to call it - spatiphyllum hybrid ex Indonesia , since it came to us from Indonesia.

spatiphyllum hybrid ex Indonesia

This hybrid, in addition to the very bright, multi-colored color of the leaf plate, in which the palette contains tints from dark green, glossy to grayish-green matte and from yellow to white,

spatiphyllum hybrid ex Indonesia

The flower’s cover is also two-colored; moreover, the flower has a pleasant, not strong, but quite pronounced, sweetish smell:

spathiphyllum sp indonesia

Easy to care for and fast growing spathiphyllum.

Spathiphyllum floribundum)

medium-sized, from 30 to 60 cm tall spathiphyllum, very beautiful, with a dark green velvety leaf surface, a light central vein, but a very capricious appearance, needs high air humidity. There are almost no real photographs of this species on the Internet; it is fundamentally different from the vast majority of spathiphyllum species:

Spathiphyllum_floribundum - photo from the Internet, author unknown

Hybrid forms based on spathiphyllum profusely flowering:

(Spathiphyllum profusely flowering, miniature form) - the height of this spathiphyllum is only 10-15 cm, a charming baby, but, unfortunately, inherited the capriciousness of its parent:

Spathiphyllum floribundum Mini 9

Comparative table of varieties and cultivars:

Name	Photo	Height, cm	Features of growth and maintenance
Angel Baby		25	erect bush, narrow leaves, unpretentious, readily produces daughter rosettes
Black Beauty		60	spreading bush, oval leaves with a sharp tip, unpretentious
Gold Satin		50	spread out bush, wider than tall, capricious, sensitive to dry air, does not like dividing the bush
Spilt Milk		60	erect bush, unpretentious, grows quickly
Sunny Sails (yellow form)		120	spreading bush, sensitive to dry air, the brightness of the segments depends on the light level, does not like interference with the root system
Sunny Sails (white form)		120	spreading bush, sensitive to dry air, the brightness of the segments depends on the light level, does not like interference with the root system
Spathiphyllum cannifolium (White variegated)		60	spreading bush, unpretentious
Silver Dust		70	upright bush, unpretentious
floribundum Mini	15	spreading bush, very capricious, requires high air humidity, but cannot tolerate lack of air movement
City of Angel		50	erect bush, both lanceolate and oval leaves on one bush, unpretentious
Manua Loa (White variegated)		50	upright bush, unpretentious
Lemon Glow		40	erect bush, unpretentious, brightness of color depends on lighting, turns green in the shade
Moon Shadow		50	upright bush, unpretentious
New One		50	upright bush, unpretentious
Silver Rain		60	erect bush, unpretentious, recommended for beginners
Silver Rain dwarf		35	erect bush, unpretentious, recommended for beginners
hybrid ex Indonesia		60	one of the most elegant spathiphyllums, the flowers are fragrant, unpretentious, found under the name “Delhi” (Deli, Delhi)
hybrid South Thailand white splash		80	spreading bush, young leaves are milky white, turning green with age
cv "Picasso"		60	capricious variety, requires high air humidity, tends to produce absolutely chorophilic daughter rosettes, which are able to live only as part of the mother bush and die after some time when separated
sp ex Thailand white variegated		80	similar to cv "Picasso", but larger, wider leaf blade

General recommendations for spathiphyllum agricultural technology:

Lighting

Spathiphyllums need bright diffused light, do not tolerate direct sunlight, and if they quite favorably react to a certain amount of sun in the morning and evening hours in the autumn-winter season, then the spring and summer midday sun will leave ugly burns on the leaves, especially sensitive to this include hybrids based on cannoleaf and abundantly flowering spathiphyllum.

Temperature

Spathiphyllums need an even temperature in the region of 20-25 C throughout the year; they will tolerate slight daily temperature fluctuations, but it is not worth taking them out into the fresh air in summer, in our conditions, when in summer the difference between night and day temperatures can be quite significant, spathiphyllums will react to this by shedding their leaf mass and losing their decorative properties.

Watering mode

Spathiphyllums love moderately moist soil, do not tolerate flooding, some hybrids, such as (Spathiphyllum charming “Spilt Milk”, “Spilled Milk”) will react to drying out of the earthen coma by losing turgor, but quickly restore it without a noticeable loss of decorativeness, however, You shouldn't abuse this. Others, such as (Spathiphyllum cannofolia “Gold Satin”, “Golden Atlas”) will react to drying out of the earthen coma by shedding the leaf mass and completely losing their decorative qualities. Watering should be regular, but stagnation of moisture must be completely eliminated; the root system, for example, of (Spathiphyllum profusely flowering, miniature form) will react to waterlogging by immediate rotting. General recommendations for watering plants all year round can be found here.

Air humidity

Spathiphyllums prefer air humidity of at least 60 percent, some hybrids - at least 80 percent; using air humidifiers during the heating season will help get rid of many problems not only with your own health (yes, the human body also does not like too dry air), but also with spathiphyllums. However, there are cultivars that can tolerate dry air without much loss in decorative value (see table above), and if increasing the air humidity in the apartment is not part of your plans, it is better to turn your attention to them.

Priming

Perhaps one of the most important questions that I would like to dwell on. I sometimes receive letters where they ask me what is wrong with my spathiphyllum, why does it regularly dry out its leaves, new leaves grow small and defective, what am I doing wrong? We begin to understand, and it turns out that, on the advice of the “experienced”, spathiphyllum was planted in a completely unimaginable substance, consisting simultaneously of all the following components at once: perlite, horse compost, universal soil, sapropel, vermicompost, peat and bark. I'm not kidding, all these components were mixed in certain proportions, and in this substrate they expected a long and happy life from the spathiphyllum. Despite the fact that spathiphyllums are quite unpretentious in terms of substrate, they, of course, cannot withstand such abuse. Horse compost, sapropel and vermicompost at the same time is a hellish mixture that plants in the open ground are still somehow able to digest, but in a potted culture the duplication of organic-rich and highly nutritious components is completely destructive for any plants, I don’t even know if there is a plant that is able to survive such an organic shock to the root system in a container culture. Further, all industrial soils in the “universal” spirit are composed using a large amount of peat; peat is the main basis of these soils. What the author of the recipe was guided by when adding peat to this “universal soil”, again duplicating an already existing component, is completely unclear. Perhaps, of the listed components, only perlite and bark, intended to be leavening agents, do not raise questions. I warn you against completely illiterate recipes, of which there are a lot on the Internet, compiled on the principle of “all the best at once”; you are almost guaranteed to destroy the plant. So, the soil for spathiphyllums, as for all other plants in indoor culture, must meet two main criteria: it must be airy and moisture-permeable. When watering, the earth ball should be well and evenly wetted, and the moisture should not stagnate.

I bring to your attention components that can be used with complete confidence in the safety and benefit for aroids, including spathiphyllums, when planting aroids:

Coconut fiber: can be used both in its pure form and as a component of the planting substrate:

coconut fiber

Bark - ideally Orchiata, should not be used in its pure form, it accumulates too little moisture, the watering regime is difficult to adjust, but as a component for planting substrate for aroids, it is excellent, since it is present in the soil in the regions of natural growth of aroids and spathiphyllums, in including:

bark (Orchiata)

Coconut chips are an excellent option for growing aroids, including spathiphyllums, in their pure form. Can be used in soil along with coconut fiber and moss:

Cocochips

New Zealand sphagnum moss , you can take the cheapest, pressed one, the length of the fiber does not matter at all. It is used as an additional component for preparing a planting mixture for aroids and spathiphyllums, including, and also as a medium for rooting aroid cuttings:

Sphagnum moss

I have offered you compost components in which aroids, including spathiphyllums, are guaranteed to feel good, but you can also use other components, including those based on industrial soils, with the addition of expanded clay, perlite and other loosening ingredients. It is only important to remember that the structure of the substrate should be sufficiently airy, and not monolithic, moisture-permeable, with good hygroscopic properties. I do not recommend using peat; unfortunately, over time, it forms a crust on the surface, which does not allow the soil to be wetted evenly. The danger of soils that bake into a monolith is also that it makes it difficult for air to reach the roots, which negatively affects their nutritional function for the plant, and also leads to rotting of the root system. Well, you should not duplicate the components, there is no point in this, if you are experimenting with the preparation of soil mixtures, do not waste time, effort and money on numerous and varied components, as a rule, just a couple is enough - a base and a baking powder.

Top dressing

Ideally, when planting in the ground, it makes sense to add granular fertilizers; they are convenient because they release nutrients slowly and in doses, depending on the ambient temperature and the degree of soil moisture, which means that during the period of active growth (spring-summer), when warmth and abundant watering, the granules will release significantly more nutrition into the environment than in the autumn-winter period, when the temperature is lower and watering is carried out much less frequently. If you have added the amount of granular fertilizer specified by the manufacturer, do not be afraid to overfeed the plant; granular fertilizers are produced using a technology that provides a slow and gradual release of nutrients.

How granular fertilizers work and why you shouldn’t be afraid that they will release more nutrients into the soil than needed:

Granular fertilizer is based on the principle of placing nutrients under a layer of elastic polymer; the nutrients are, as it were, encapsulated inside the shell. After watering, water penetrates through the pores of the polymer shell, and macro- and microelements dissolve in the water. Depending on the purpose of the fertilizer (the manufacturer always indicates for what period specific fertilizers are designed), granular fertilizers are valid for 3, 6, 9 or 12 months, which means that with adequate watering, the granules will release all their nutrients gradually over the specified period .

The elastic membrane of the capsule retains its properties throughout the entire working period: the shell is not damaged by mechanical impact on the soil. The shell consists of an elastic polymer that slowly breaks down in the soil and guarantees the availability of substances depending on the needs of the plants.

If you do not want to use granular fertilizers added to the soil when planting, you can use liquid fertilizers for ornamental foliage plants, adding them to watering in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.

Regardless of what form of mineral fertilizers you use, in the spring-summer season it makes sense to periodically apply additional organic fertilizers, which are convenient for you - based on vermicompost, sapropel, mullein. Be careful when using biofertilizers based on horse and chicken manure, they are very active and can harm plants. If you are not sure, it is better to make the solution less concentrated than indicated on the package, and most importantly, never exceed the dosage specified by the manufacturer.

When applying organic and mineral liquid fertilizers, one rule must be taken into account - never water plants with a solution of organic or mineral fertilizers on dry soil. Before applying organic or mineral liquid fertilizer, the soil must be shed generously with just water.

Attention!

I strongly do not recommend using dry organic fertilizers in the soil for any indoor plants; they may be unevenly distributed throughout the pot, the concentration may be exceeded, and besides, organic matter in a pot is a breeding ground for saprophytes, which can be joined by pathogenic fungi and bacteria.

How to save a spathiphyllum that is left without roots - read the article

Catalog of spathiphyllums:

Spathiphyllum / Spathiphyllum, catalog

Published on: 11/07/2018 at 10:28 pm

To other articles about plants

Problems when growing spathiphyllum

“Women's Happiness” is a fairly unpretentious flower that does not require special care. It is enough for him to provide normal lighting, sufficient humidity and temperature. But in some cases a number of problems may arise.

The roots are rotting

The cause of rotting is most often high humidity. The plant is moisture-loving, but it should not be overwatered. Also, the roots rot as a result of the development of a disease or when attacked by pests. It is enough to remove the affected roots, wash the plant and replant it in another soil.

Pale leaves

Many varieties of spathiphyllum have bright green leaves. But if they turn pale, this indicates that the plant does not have enough light. It is enough to move it to a more illuminated place, but not under direct sunlight.

drooping foliage

If the leaves droop, this indicates insufficient watering. The plant should be well watered and sprayed.

Leaf blades rot

The causes of rotting are cold water or too frequent watering. The water must be settled, and its temperature must not be lower than 18 degrees.

All affected leaves should be cut off and washed with crushed activated carbon or a fungicidal agent.

Doesn't grow well

In the case where the plant grows slowly and does not bloom, this indicates a large pot. Spathiphyllum loves cramped spaces, so the container needs to be selected accordingly.

Poor growth can also be caused by an underdeveloped root system. He needs to be fed.

Spots on leaves

When spots appear on the leaves, this indicates a violation of sap exchange. The plant needs to be provided with moderate watering. The problem can also arise as a result of the development of a viral or fungal infection.

The leaves are curling

If the leaves on a flower begin to curl, this may indicate a lack of potassium and magnesium in the soil. The plant needs to be fertilized.

Cold weather can also cause leaves to curl. The pot needs to be moved to another place.

Dries

When the spathiphyllum leaves dry, it needs to be watered. This occurs when there is insufficient humidity. It is recommended to spray the plant regularly.

Drooping

The reasons why “female happiness” has wilted may be improper watering, excessive amounts of fertilizer, or sudden temperature changes. Drooping leaves also serve as a signal that pests, such as aphids, have infested.

Spathiphyllum leaves droop even after transplantation. Once the plant recovers, the leaves will return to their normal position.

Turns yellow

Yellowing leaves of “female happiness” appear for several reasons:

pests or disease;
lack of nutrients;
incorrect watering regime;
exposure to cold;
dry indoor air;
exposure of leaves to ultraviolet rays.

The cause must be found out and eliminated immediately, otherwise the plant will die.

Flowers turn yellow

Spathiphyllum flowers begin to turn yellow as a result of insect activity or due to the development of diseases. Also, the reasons are improper care, when the plant was kept at an inappropriate temperature, or the pot is in a draft. Flowers may also turn yellow as a result of a lack of essential microelements in the soil. It needs to be fertilized.

Leaves turn black

Blackening of the leaves occurs against the background of freezing of the roots when watering was carried out with cold water. This also occurs as a result of insufficient soil or air moisture.

The appearance of black spots on the leaves also indicates that the plant has received sunburn, has been overfed with fertilizers, or the soil has been improperly selected.

The edges of the leaves turn yellow

The edge of the leaf turns black for several reasons: lack of nutrients and vitamins, exposure to sunlight, improper watering or dry soil.

The edges of the leaf may also turn black as a result of poor-quality soil, damaged roots, an excessively small pot, or low room temperature.

Doesn't bloom

In the case when spathiphyllum does not bloom for a long time, experienced gardeners recommend:

Change lighting. Perhaps the plant is not getting enough light. You need to hang a special phytolamp on the windowsill with the pot.
Change the watering mode. Perhaps the lack of flowering indicates improper watering. The soil should be moistened immediately after the top layer of soil in the pot dries out.
Remove from drafts. Spathiphyllum does not like cold air, so it should be placed where there are no drafts.

Another reason for the lack of flowers may be a lack or excess of fertilizers. The fertilizing regime needs to be reconsidered.

Droplets on the leaves

Many novice gardeners are concerned that droplets begin to appear at the tips of the leaves of “female happiness”.

This is quite normal. This way the plant gets rid of excess moisture. There is also a belief that the plant “cries” before the rain. But this is just a superstition.

Location and lighting

If possible, place the spathiphyllum on a windowsill facing north. This flower loves partial shade or a well-lit place. In the shade, the plant will not have lush, broad foliage. Protect from drafts.

Read here Hatiora: 130 photos of cactus, tips for care and propagation at home. Rules for transplanting and watering plants

Signs and superstitions

Many different superstitions are associated with spathiphyllum. Our grandmothers and great-grandmothers believed in many of them.

For women

Spathiphyllum is considered the flower of brides. Mothers often give it to their daughters when they come of age. Many believe that the plant can help a lonely girl find a worthy life partner.

White flowers help destroy negative energy at home and charge it with positive energy. The plant gives a boost of energy and fills the house with happiness.

“Women’s Happiness” helps a woman maintain her beauty and attractiveness for many years.

For men

It is believed that with the help of spathiphyllum, a man can test the sincerity of a woman’s feelings. It is enough to give it to your chosen one. If it withers, then love will not live long. But if it begins to bloom magnificently and for a long time, there will be an imminent wedding.

Spathiphyllum red

Sometimes you can hear that nurseries offer spathiphyllums with red or pink bracts. However, before you succumb to a tempting offer and rush to purchase a rare flower, it is worth understanding the classification.

A white bedspread can only become colored under the influence of chemicals artificially introduced from the peduncle. Under natural conditions, the bract can only turn green. And yet there are plants that are closely related to spathiphyllum and have colored perianth. These are anthuriums well known to gardeners. Thanks to breeders, depending on the variety, they are able to please the owner with scarlet, burgundy, pink and almost white covers of inflorescences.

Spathiphyllum and anthurium have many common morphological features. Therefore, in the West, the common name is applied to plants - peace lily. By the way, if spathiphyllum is considered a talisman of female happiness, then anthurium is the embodiment of male well-being and strength. Although we have not yet managed to obtain red spathiphyllum, these plants can become a good pair and complement each other on the windowsill.

Spathiphyllum in the interior

“Women's Happiness” will perfectly complement any interior thanks to its large bright green leaves and unusual flowers.

Varieties that grow up to 1 meter can be planted in special outdoor pots. Small views will decorate any windowsill or any other place. Spathiphyllum is often placed in bedrooms. Many believe that the plant will protect against adultery and ignite passion between spouses.

Spathiphyllum Mauna Loa

A beautiful plant with a white wide elliptical bract, gracefully concave and covering a cream-colored spadix. Bright green, pointed leaves are held on 10-centimeter-long petioles and grow from a shortened, sometimes underground stem. Short, up to 5 cm, ears are located on high 25-centimeter peduncles.

The homeland of this spectacular plant is Colombia, from where the first samples of Spathiphyllum Wallis were exported. Mauna Loa blooms for a long time or almost constantly, the inflorescences can be cut, in this form they remain fresh for up to a month.

Spathiphyllum and anthurium together

Very often, together with “women’s happiness” they put “men’s happiness”. These two plants look great together and complement each other perfectly.

Spathiphyllum blooms with beautiful white flowers, and anthurium will perfectly complement it with bright red colors.

“Women’s Happiness” is very popular among most flower growers, as it is unpretentious and easy to care for. It does not require any special skills in keeping indoor flowers. With proper watering and providing it with all the necessary conditions for 5-8 months a year, it will delight with its snow-white flowers and thick, bright foliage.

Photo of spathiphyllum Domino

Just one photo of Domino spathiphyllum is sure to evoke enthusiastic responses and interest from indoor plant lovers. Spathiphyllum Domino is a rare plant with brightly variegated foliage with numerous white streaks and spots.

At the same time, the plant is very compact and does not exceed 35 cm in height. Like all similar varieties, the variegated variety feels great in sufficiently lit windows. Under direct rays, it may lose its attractiveness and begin to wither. Therefore, Domino requires a shading screen, good watering and no drafts. In the morning, the plant pampers the owner with an aroma, the intensity of which decreases in the midday hours.