Caring for primrose after flowering in the garden. Growing primrose in open ground

Regardless of their origin, many types of primroses fit perfectly into the harsh climate of Russia with frosty, snowy winters and damp, cool springs. Conditions similar to the habitat facilitate cultivation and minimize the care of primrose, ensuring earlier, abundant and long-lasting flowering. Thanks to this, the delicate touching flower, heralding the arrival of spring, did not get lost among other early-blooming crops and gained nationwide love.

A little messenger of spring, brightening up the gloomy garden with bright colors.

Why know the origin of the primrose?

The genus Primrose grows wild on 5 continents and includes more than 600 species, while garden forms and hybrids number in the thousands and are cultivated everywhere on the planet. More than 30 types of garden primrose are perfectly adapted to growing in open ground in Russia and do not require complex care. And yet, having decided to plant this or that primrose in the garden, take an interest in its origin. What you should pay attention to?

1. You are purchasing a forest, mountain or swamp plant. Forest species (P. vernal, P. vulgare, P. tall) are more moisture-loving and do not tolerate 40-degree heat. Mountain primroses (P. Julia, P. aurica) can more easily withstand high summer temperatures; their leaves are covered with a waxy coating, which prevents moisture evaporation, so their foliage remains decorative until late autumn.
2. Most primroses are perennial plants, but some species prefer to be grown in a biennial culture (P. mealy, group P. candelabra). Although their rosette does not die immediately in the third year, the decorative effect of the flower deteriorates sharply.
3. It is important how adapted the plant is to open ground conditions. Along with garden primroses, some species are cultivated only in pots (P. obconica, indoor hybrids of P. vulgare). Plants from the candelabra primrose section, muscarioides need to be covered for the winter.
4. Unpretentious primroses are more suitable for the garden, but capricious collectible hybrids with unusual colors, abundantly covered with powdery coating, require special technology and greenhouse conditions.

Knowing the origin and individual preferences of the flower, you can understand how to properly care for primrose.

Auricula is beautiful, like a collection primrose, but hardy and unpretentious in care. General requirements for agricultural technology of primroses

What do most types of primroses that are found in our gardens have in common?

1. Plants need coolness to actively grow. In early spring this is not a problem. But the second intensive period of root growth and flower bud formation occurs in the last month of summer, when the weather is hot, dry. To reduce the harmful effects of the sun, places in partial shade are chosen for growing primrose. They also save from the heat with intensive watering.
2. Dryness is the second enemy of primrose. The flow of sap and the beginning of the growing season coincides with the period of snow melting, when there is an abundance of moisture, and the plant evaporates its excess through the leaves. Nature laid down a mechanism for intense evaporation, but did not provide for the reverse process - stopping the loss of moisture in hot weather. If you miss watering, the bushes may dry out and die.
3. Primroses are more demanding of soil structure than soil fertility. The main thing is that the rhizome breathes and does not flood. When planting primrose in open ground, low-lying areas are drained and the structure is adjusted. Thus, clayey soils are loosened with sand, high peat, and humus, while sandy soils are compacted and enriched by adding organic matter.
4. The biological feature of the growth of primroses is the protruding rhizome and the rapid growth of the bush. If the plant is not divided and replanted to a new place if it becomes too thick (every 3-5 years), it will grow and die.

A rocky slope of an alpine hill on the eastern or western side is a suitable place for auricular primrose

What to do in the fall?

Primulas are not as afraid of low temperatures as temperature changes and rotting of roots. Changes, as a rule, occur from the difference in day and night temperatures, as well as from alternating thaws and sudden cold snaps. Hypothermia primrose in winter if the standards are not followed or rotting from excess moisture can lead to loss of germination.

The intense spring sun is also dangerous; it can burn primroses that have not yet adapted after hibernation. The best protection from the cold and a guarantor of climatic stability in the root zone is, of course, snow, but it is not always enough to provide the required degree of protection.

Therefore, in addition to temperature changes and cold weather, they create a shelter from soil with humus and a layer of spruce branches on top. When the snow cover is very thick, there is a threat of overheating.

To prevent rotting during the winter, holes are periodically punched in the snow cover using a pitchfork to create air access to the plant. When the melting begins in the spring, due to the same risk of the plant rotting, you need to partially clean the frozen crust of the crust.

Many varieties have frost-resistant properties and can easily winter without special insulation-shelter , but there are hybrid species that are not at all predisposed to wintering in open ground. During periods of low temperatures, they are removed from the soil and sent for storage in containers in rooms with special conditions.

Do I need to trim the leaves?

Is this flower pruned for winter? If phloxes and peonies are deprived of their aerial parts for the winter, then doing this with primrose is strictly prohibited. After flowering, the primrose rosette often fades and does not create the most aesthetic appearance, but the foliage is not cut off, since for the primrose it is a natural shield from winds and low temperatures during cold weather.

More information about transplanting and caring for primrose in the fall can be found here, and from this article you will learn how to plant the plant correctly.

Technology for cultivating garden primroses

It is not difficult to find a place for primroses in the garden. They are planted in flower beds with eastern and western exposure, on the slopes of rock gardens, under trees, in the shade of bushes and tall perennials. The only condition for choosing a place to grow primroses is that the plant receives a portion of the morning sun, but is sheltered from the scorching midday rays.

Advice! The mobile option of planting primroses in outdoor containers, boxes, and portable flowerpots is becoming increasingly popular. They can be placed in any convenient place, and, if necessary, used to decorate the yard, lawn, or gazebo.

Planting primroses

When starting to plant primroses, whether with seeds or rosettes, the first step is to prepare the soil. Add humus based on rotted plant residues or manure in an amount of 15–20 kg/m² to the garden soil, add a bucket of sand to the same area, and apply full- or long-acting fertilizers for beautiful flowering plants according to the instructions.

There are several ways to breed primroses.

• Through seedlings. Seeds are sown in February in seedling boxes (cassettes) with light loose substrate and peat tablets. A prerequisite is cold stratification of seeds for 3 weeks. After sowing, the container is covered with film and sent to a cool place (not higher than 18⁰ C). The greenhouse is removed after germination (after 3–4 weeks). When 2–3 leaves appear, the seedlings dive into individual containers or directly into the flowerbed.
  

  Advice! As practice shows, it is still better to plant a primrose seedling for growing, cover it for the winter, and plant it in a permanent flowerbed in the spring or even autumn of next year.

• Sowing seeds in open ground. The most reliable option to get guaranteed seedlings is to sow them before winter - in late October - early November. Sow sparsely, on the surface of the bed, and mulch the top with a thin layer of humus.
• Rosettes when dividing an old bush. This option is used to propagate existing varieties. They practice early spring (before flowering) and autumn planting of primrose with rosettes, but no later than mid-September. Otherwise, the seedling will not have time to take root and may suffer from frost. If you are still late with the autumn transplant, wait until spring or cover the young bushes with fallen leaves and spruce branches.

Advice! The generally accepted scheme for planting primroses is in clumps; in a group, plants are placed at a distance of 10–15 cm. As the rosette grows, it covers the root zone with foliage, which prevents moisture evaporation, drying out of the rhizome, and overgrowing of the bush with weeds.

Primrose seedlings in cassettes, ready for transplanting to a permanent place

Care during flowering

In early spring, it is important not to skip the first feeding of the plant. It is done as soon as the snow melts. The bushes are topped with organic matter - slurry diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Or use complex mineral fertilizer, which is scattered on moist soil. The norm is 25–30 g for an adult bush. Feeding is not needed if the rosettes are sprinkled with humus in the fall.

If spring is dry, primroses are watered. To prolong flowering, it is recommended to promptly remove wilted flower stalks.

Care after flowering

Caring for primrose after flowering is kept to a minimum, since until August the plant is in a state of summer dormancy. At this time, pay attention to the condition of the soil. If it is too dry, the leaves will begin to wither and the root collar will dry out. This cannot be allowed.

Before the plant begins to grow (at the end of July), feed it with a phosphorus-potassium mixture. This stimulates the growth of bushes, the establishment and ripening of new flower buds.

Dividing the bush

When a perennial sits in one place for a long time, it grows so much that the rosettes stick out against each other and become bare. Nutrition in the soil is depleted and pathogenic microflora accumulates. This is the main reason why the leaves become smaller and the primrose does not bloom or blooms poorly.

There is only one recipe - divide and replant the bush as often as possible. Some people do this every year, but the generally accepted practice is once every 3-4 years. The primrose is moistened abundantly, dug up, the roots are cleared of soil and divided into parts - one or 2-3 rosettes. Each division should contain a piece of rhizome with at least one renewal bud. If the roots are very long, leave 10 cm, cut off the rest. The root collar is not buried, the soil is mulched.

Divide the bush early in the spring. Many people are concerned about whether it is possible to replant primrose in September, like ordinary perennials. Primrose tolerates division well at the junction of summer and autumn, when it awakens after summer dormancy. When transplanting in the second half of September, it is better to cover the plantings for the winter, in case the plant is not sufficiently rooted.

An overgrown primrose bush is literally full of rosettes that need to be divided

Preparing for winter

Caring for primrose in the fall comes down to watering the transplanted rosettes, and for 1–2 weeks - in small portions, but daily. The rosette of leaves, like other perennial flowers, is not cut off - let it cover the rhizome. The bush is sprinkled with humus. The substrate performs several functions:

• covers bare rhizomes;
• insulates the root zone;
• Serves as an effective supplement.

Some types of primroses require more thorough preparation for winter. They are covered with leaves and lutrasil on top with the onset of frost and are opened only in March, when the growing season of primroses begins. Some hybrids recommend transferring them to a box for the winter and storing them in a cool room.

Sanitizing and pruning roses in autumn

Despite the fact that the rose is fertilized, no one has canceled its care. Like any other plant in the autumn, it needs proper soil cleansing and preparation for wintering. The gardener should not forget that autumn is the best time for the proliferation of fungal infections and pathogenic bacteria that can harm any plant. Therefore, all flower care actions should be aimed at preventing the harmful effects of pests of any kind.

The main preventive measures are:

• High-quality and systematic cleaning of the soil from weeds and debris. This means that a responsible owner must ensure that the soil around the flower is completely free of contaminants that can cause bacterial growth and infection of the plant’s root system.
• Sanitary pruning of foliage and shoots. First of all, the lower leaves and twigs, which are most often affected by pathogenic pests, should be cut off. At the beginning of autumn, at a height of 30 cm from the surface of the ground, all shoots and leaves are removed. Thus, fungi and bacteria have no chance to reproduce and damage the rose.
• Sanitation with disinfectants. This procedure is carried out after the bush is cleared of lower shoots and foliage. For this purpose, preparations based on manganese and soda are used. For those who are not sure of the correct preparation and percentage of home-made preparations, you can purchase a ready-made product for processing.

As you can see, the complex of prevention measures is not so large and complex. All actions are as clear as possible and do not have any difficulties in implementation.

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Now you can take a closer look at the issue of pruning roses before winter.

Let’s say right away that from the beginning of the autumn period, every gardener should pay special attention to controlling the abundance of flowering and growth of the rose. New bud buds that appear at this moment must be bent at the base to prevent subsequent development

In no case should you cut off the buds, otherwise the growth of new buds may be provoked, which is absolutely not necessary at the moment.

As for the total pruning of garden roses, there is a small specific nuance. Roses that climb are usually simply pinched at the growing points, but those that grow as bushes are pruned almost completely. Thus, total pruning of a bush rose means that its correct implementation should be carried out at the level of the upper five-leaf clover. The cut is made at an angle of 45 degrees with a slope from the upper bud. The distance between them should not exceed 1.5 cm.

Roses are cut several weeks before wintering.

Diseases and pests of primrose

The causes of primrose diseases usually lie in violations of agricultural technology.

• Root rots are fungal in nature, affecting the neck of the plant and leading to damping off of the rosette. The reasons are stagnation of moisture in the root zone, thickened plantings. Gradually, rot covers the stem and leaves. The affected parts of the plant are destroyed, the bush is sprayed with a fungicide solution.
• Fungal infections also include spots that affect leaves. Gradually they grow, become covered with a coating of sporulation, leading to the death of the leaf blade. Control measures are the same as in the previous case.
• In hot weather, spider mites can breed on the plant. It is diagnosed by faded leaves and the finest cobwebs on their reverse side. In case of severe infection, the bushes are treated with acaricides.

The best way to prevent primrose diseases is to transplant to new soil and maintain temperature and water conditions.

How to grow primroses in open ground:

In the wild, primroses grow in forests, mountains and meadows; they can be found along river banks and forest edges. The plant has been known since ancient times and was called the flower of the 12 gods due to its strong healing effect.

These low primroses with wrinkled leaves. collected in a rosette, and drooping golden flowers with a pleasant aroma, people also call them keys - according to legend, the Apostle Peter dropped the keys to Paradise on the earth - primroses - primroses - grew in this place.

Spring primrose, photo:

Useful properties and contraindications

The plant contains highly concentrated manganese salts. The aerial part contains a lot of vitamins, while the rhizome contains essential oils, saponins and glycosides. In spring, leaves accumulate carotene and ascorbic acid. Therefore, salads and soups are prepared from them. The roots and leaves are dried and powder, decoctions and infusions are made from them.

An infusion of leaves helps in the treatment of bronchitis, sore throat, neuroses, headaches, as well as sleep disorders. An infusion of the roots helps resolve external hemorrhages and is used in the form of compresses, lotions and wraps for bruises and skin diseases.

There are contraindications to the use of drugs containing primrose:

• any stage of pregnancy, primrose can cause uterine contractions and miscarriage;
• ulcer, stomach upset;
• allergic reaction;
• individual intolerance to plant components.

It will also be interesting: Clivia - care at home, types and cultivation of the flower?

Types of primroses

More than 500 species of primrose are known. In our middle zone, they grow ten times less, but a large number of varieties and hybrids, divided into sections, have been bred from them.

Section Primrose.

Unites 4 wild species, of which the most famous and beloved is the common primrose. It blooms in April-May for about a month, closer to autumn it can bloom again.

Photo of primrose primrose:

Auricular section.

The most beautiful representative is the auricular primrose with leathery leaves with jagged or not. Winters well in central Russia. Flowering time is June, even part of July.

Primula aurica, photo:

Why isn't there a miniature rose in the photo?

Julia's section.

The height of the bush is no more than 10 centimeters. very unpretentious when planting or caring, hybrids have a wide variety of colors. Blooms early in spring.

Section Muscarioides,

Very original appearance, biennial plant. In winter, open ground needs shelter. Demanding on moisture, planting for a shady place.

Powdery primrose section.

Multi-tiered inflorescences, up to 30 cm high. Winter-hardy.

Section Cortusiformes, photo:

Gear Section.

It blooms for about two months from the end of April. Unpretentious.

Globular flowers, photo:

How to sow correctly?

There are varieties of primroses, for example from the candelabra group, which reproduce naturally ; they just do not remove the dried flowers, leaving seeds to ripen, which self-sow into additional habitat areas, often displacing other plants.
For example, Tibetan primrose and primrose Akaulis have such properties. The seeds of these varieties can simply be scattered where you would like to have such flowers, slightly nourishing and loosening the soil. It’s better to wait until the plant self-seeds and replant the seedlings in the spring.

If we are talking about other varieties, then you will have to try a little. In general, seed primroses develop more slowly and require more attention and time to care for.

What is important to consider?

1. The germination of seeds decreases as they lose freshness, so additional measures will be required.
2. Watering with hard water is dangerous; this creates a risk of loss of germination.
3. In warm weather, seeds also lose their germination potential; coolness is required for effective germination. The temperature should not exceed 17 degrees, the optimal mode is 10-15 degrees.
4. Air humidity should be above average.
5. Good lighting is important; if necessary, add additional lighting with a phytolamp.
6. They are generally sown in November, December or January, and hybrids with a short development period are sown in February-March. From the time of sowing to the start of flowering, it usually takes about six months or a little less. On average, the optimal time for project implementation falls in November-December.

Under normal conditions, seedlings hatch on 10-11 days . After this, you can slightly reduce the humidity and temperature. Around March 15, young seedlings are transplanted into separate pots. And after a few weeks, in May, they are transported to outdoor conditions, to open ground.

Read more about sowing dates and other features of planting perennial primrose here.

Perennial garden primrose

The types are listed above. mostly winter well in the open ground of central Russia. All of them are perennial or biennial plants. The rules for caring for each type are similar.

In the first year of life, before wintering in the open air, they will not be prevented from feeding them with humus, peat or dry leaves. Then the primrose will feel safe, and in the spring... In the spring we will be greeted by a riot of colors - some primroses form inflorescences already against the backdrop of last year's wintering foliage. If late-blooming primroses are planted next to them, such. like auricular ones, flowering will last until mid-summer.

Do I need to prune primrose after flowering?

When the primrose fades and dry leaves appear on the bush, its decorative value is significantly reduced. Many gardeners, following the example of peonies and phlox, completely cut off the above-ground part of the flower, thus clearing the garden of non-aesthetic fragments. And this is the main mistake in caring for primroses.

Pruning foliage is relevant for primrose only in spring, when the snow has melted . This absolutely cannot be done in the fall. The fact is that after budding, the crop begins to actively grow a leaf rosette. When exposed to cold weather, it sinks to the ground, protecting the root system even when dry from adverse external factors. This is a kind of natural shelter for the primrose.

In specimens with prematurely cut leaves, the bush becomes smaller, flowering weakens and natural decorativeness is lost

Perennial primrose: planting and care, plant photos

Primroses, awakening in the spring, need feeding and loosening. Therefore, we slightly rake away the loose cover and apply complex fertilizer. If the primrose is early flowering, you can add only one potassium or ash infusion. If you overdo it with nitrogen, the power will go to leaf growth. Then we fertilize once every two weeks until the end of flowering. After flowering, we feed with a complex composition or phosphorus: once in the summer, once in the fall. You can skip summer feeding.

Photo of primrose:

When new ones appear, we gradually remove the leaves remaining from the fall. To prolong flowering, cut off faded buds.

Watering is plentiful - perennial primroses in the open air love to drink water, they will not even refuse sprinkling, but only in warm weather.

After flowering, watering is reduced; if the summer is rainy, you can not water at all.

Closer to autumn, we are preparing the ground for planting new primroses, purchased or donated. obtained from bushes grown with one's own hands.

We choose a semi-shade place for planting, closed from the winds, without stagnant moisture. My keys grow under a large Antonov tree and under a mock orange tree.

The soil should be loose, because the root system of primrose is superficial and weak. The soil is prepared in advance, about a month before planting. If there is a lot of clay. add humus and sand. Rotted manure won't hurt.

Around the bushes, we periodically carefully loosen the soil to allow air to flow in, or mulch it. We pull out the weeds.

As the perennial grows, the root system may become bare; by autumn we add humus and other soil to it. Then the above development cycle will repeat.

When can you replant perennial primrose in open ground?

Usually, after three or four years, the bushes grow, the inflorescences become smaller and become smaller; if we see the need to separate the primrose and replant it, we do it in August, even for early flowering plants this can be done at the beginning of the month. You just need to cover it from the open sun for a while after such planting, of course. water for successful establishment. In the year of such a transplant, I do not feed the keys with anything.

Frost-resistant plant

To organize the correct wintering of a flower, strict and timely adherence to the sequence of preparation stages is required. They begin to prepare primrose after flowering has completed .

1. At the first stage, they do a general cleaning of the flower garden, removing debris, plant fragments, dry twigs and any waste that exists, since during wintering they can create unsanitary conditions, begin to rot, or be carriers of pathogenic spores, parasitic pests and cause damage to the plant .
2. Before winter, water-recharging watering is done, thoroughly moistening the soil.
3. Aerate the soil by loosening the hole around the primrose. This will additionally protect against waterlogging during thaw periods and create healthier conditions.
4. When stable frosts occur at night, they move on to the next stage of preparation. On average, this time falls in mid-autumn. Humus is added under the bush, scattering it around the rosette, slightly larger than the diameter of the space that the roots supposedly occupy.

Sprinkle the plant first with a small layer of humus, and then with a layer of soil, or one of them, to protect it from the cold. Make sure that the apical part of the rosette remains visible. Snow in sufficient quantities is itself a shelter, but a sufficient thickness of the snow layer is not always formed and in this case the primrose bushes are covered with spruce branches. They cover with spruce branches at the cooling stage down to -10 degrees.

Material for shelter is taken only dry and clean for the same reason. The shelter is made like this - several spruce legs are placed in a low hut and secured with a rope. Instead of spruce branches, you can use twigs or shoots of berry bushes.

• When the winter has little snow, it is possible to artificially redistribute the snow cover. For comfortable conditions, the plant usually requires from 25 to 70 cm of snow cover.

In winters with little snow, such a plant is at risk of freezing and therefore it is necessary to cover the roots with a nutritious layer of soil in advance.

How to propagate garden primrose

As you can see, caring for perennial primrose in the open ground is simple and does not require special knowledge, except that reproduction may cause difficulties.

Growing primrose from seeds

This is the most problematic method of reproduction. Much depends on the quality of the seeds, their storage conditions, and the duration of storage. The thing is. that primrose seeds quickly lose their viability, this happens especially quickly. if they were kept at temperatures above 18 degrees. Agree. Few stores and warehouses will bother with maintaining optimal storage conditions. When purchasing from a store, we look at the shelf life - if too much time has passed, we refuse it.

Another failure is related to this. that many types of primrose, except fine-toothed and common, require a period of stratification - an imitation of a cold period during which the seeds sleep, but an enzyme is produced inside that will make them wake up after hibernation. Late planting towards the end of autumn - approximately November - is more reliable.

I take a plastic shallow container with a lid. I make a lot of drainage holes there. I fill it with loose soil, compact it, moisten it a little from a spray bottle, spread out the seeds with a toothpick - at least a dozen per square centimeter, at the same time lightly pressing. I close the container with a lid. I dig into the ground. I insulate it with a layer of spunbond and leave it for the winter. In the spring, unfriendly shoots will appear, which, when a real leaf appears, can be planted in the ground or in separate shallow containers.

A similar procedure can be done by planting primrose seeds in winter (December-January). We place the closed container in a plastic bag and bury it under snow with a cover thickness of at least 30-40 centimeters. This can be done right in the urban conditions of the front garden, garages, sheds, just mark the burial place. Place the planted seeds in the refrigerator. freezer, just cooling the bags and similar manipulations, no matter how hard I tried, did not lead to success.

If we plant species. not requiring stratification, I advise you to sow them in February. at the latest, using a container with a lid. When the seeds germinate. remove the lid for a short time, accustoming you to normal conditions, gradually increase this time; Finally, they take it off completely. If necessary, we moisten only with a sprayer.

The pick is being carried out. when a couple of true leaves appear, using small containers with drainage holes. To plant in such cups, I use a small teaspoon to grab a lump of soil with the roots. Further care involves hardening, if the weather allows you to move the plants to a balcony or loggia with a temperature of at least 10 degrees. careful watering. I don’t use fertilizers, but I buy land.

In the spring I plant primrose seedlings in a school for growing, and in a permanent place - next year or this fall, depending on the situation.

Depending on the type and variety, garden primrose will bloom in six months or you will have to wait two or three years.

Seeds of hybrid varieties, collected and planted in the ground. They do not repeat the properties of their parents, this must be taken into account.

Other collected seeds can be sown immediately after collection, preferably in containers. dug into the soil. So that the landings are not lost. It is necessary to provide such crops with the necessary moisture.

Reproduction of primrose by dividing the bush

The simplest and most reliable way. produced by the end of summer. Simply use a sharp knife to separate the rosette from the main bush. To make it grow, you can free part of the bush from the soil and separate the rosette with roots. Sprinkle the cut with ash. For convenience, you can dig up the entire bush, but I don’t do that. We plant separated specimens in prepared soil at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other.

When to plant primrose in the ground depends on the species. flowering time, it can be early spring or after flowering. end of July - August.

Reproduction of garden primrose using rosettes

When we have a valuable type of primrose, but a single specimen, you can use a sharp knife to cut off the rosette that has formed nearby without digging up the bush. It has not yet formed roots, but has the rudiments of them. We plant the cuttings in moist soil and cover them with half a dark plastic bottle. After a month, roots will form and the rosette will become an independent plant. you just need to gradually accustom her to the light and humidity of the surrounding air. I know from my own experience that the result is 100%. So you don’t have to wait for emergency reproduction. until the bush grows.

How to properly prepare for winter

The degree of preparation of primroses for wintering depends on their biological classification. Some species do not require additional care before winter. More delicate varieties must be covered with fallen leaves and agrofibre on top. And hybrid varieties must be replanted annually, together with a ball of earth, into wooden boxes for indoor storage.

Primroses are unique because of the harmonious combination of their simplicity, undemandingness and sophisticated delicate beauty. They have high winter-hardy qualities. But often excessive care and ignorance of novice gardeners lead to freezing of the bushes.

To prevent this from happening, organize all preparatory work according to the algorithm below:

Remove debris and unnecessary vegetation from the flowerbed. Under the snow cover, weeds can be prohibited, thereby provoking putrefactive infections

Act carefully so as not to damage the rosette and its foliage with working equipment. Do not cut it under any circumstances.

Loosen the soil in the area thoroughly and water it generously.

Distribute humus over the root circle of the primrose, leaving the rosette core visible

This manipulation is especially relevant for delicate varieties. When the air temperature drops to -10°C, cover the plants with agrofibre or spruce branches. In the second case, make sure that the thickness of the coniferous shelter reaches 7–10 cm. An alternative insulation option is dry straw or hay. In regions with snowy winters, this manipulation loses its meaning. If the thickness of winter precipitation varies between 25–70 cm, there is no need to worry about the safety of the flower. If there is not enough snow, add it to the flower bed by hand.

Remember that primrose does not need pruning before winter. The only exceptions are non-frost-resistant varieties, which will be stored in containers during cold periods. Their entire above-ground part must be removed.

Primroses are especially popular in floriculture due to their ease of care, early flowering and bright beauty. Competent and timely care for them, as well as compliance with basic agrotechnical rules, is the key to the full development of perennials.

Primrose herb: medicinal properties

The wild species of primrose is the medicinal primrose, one of the most unpretentious. The ancient Greeks valued it very much for its medicinal properties, they believed that it saved them from paralysis, they even called it “paralysis herb.”

Unfortunately, it is becoming less common in our country and is included in the list of flowers. those in need of protection.

Considering that other types of perennial primrose also have useful qualities, we will describe them in more detail.

• In the spring, you can borrow vitamin C and carotene from primrose, adding it to salads and drying it for the winter.
• The leaves can be applied to wounds for faster healing.
• For colds and bronchitis, a decoction of herbs or roots is taken as a diuretic and expectorant.
• Calming effect for neuroses. insomnia, migraines, headaches.

Pour a tablespoon of boiling water into a glass, leave for half an hour, drink this glass a tablespoon a day.

Hello, dear friends!

Primrose is known to many not only as a beautiful summer flower, but also as a plant with amazing medicinal properties. Primrose root is widely used in folk medicine; it is used to prepare various infusions or decoctions. Decoctions of primrose roots and leaves are used to prevent and treat many diseases.

Today, a huge number of varieties of primrose are known. Among them there are both annual and perennial plants, and sometimes biennials are also found.

The root system of primrose is well developed, the leaves are collected in the form of a small rosette, usually oval in shape. The inflorescences usually have whole or split petals. The colors of plants can be very diverse; a rich color palette allows you to fill the flower garden with the brightest colors, even if there are no other flowering plants besides primrose.

At the end of the flowering period, small boxes with seeds form on the plants.

Choosing a place to plant primrose

In order to successfully grow primroses in open ground at a summer cottage, for planting them it is better to choose those areas where bright sunlight will be present only in the first half of the day. These can be small areas located next to shrubs or fruit trees, so that the shade from the crowns of such neighbors covers the plants from too bright afternoon sun.

Soil for primrose

The soil in the selected area should be well-drained and moist. Experienced gardeners recommend fertilizing the soil at the site of future planting of primroses with manure so that the soil is rich in nutrients and retains moisture well, but is not too moist.

Caring for primrose in open ground

The main measures for caring for primroses will be regular watering and timely loosening of the soil, since the root system of the plant requires a constant flow of oxygen for the favorable development of the plant as a whole. It is also necessary to periodically remove weeds from the territory occupied by the primrose so that all the nutrients from the soil reach the primroses.

Feeding

During the entire growing season, primroses must be fed. The frequency of feeding will be approximately once every twenty or twenty-five days. Additional nutrition of plants is carried out using phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Also during this period, it is recommended to periodically water the plants with liquid organic fertilizers.

Caring for primrose in the open ground of the garden

Most often, caring for growing primroses does not cause any difficulties; the plant is unpretentious. You just need to loosen the soil occasionally, remove weeds in a timely manner and, of course, water regularly. To extend the flowering period of primroses, trim off already faded flower stalks so that they do not take away nutrients from the plant. If you collect seeds yourself for subsequent seedlings, then a few flower stalks will be enough.

You can fertilize it a couple of times a season, or simply feed it with vermicompost once a month. Do not overfeed the plant, otherwise it will begin to fatten and increase green mass to the detriment of flowering. After flowering, to lay flower buds for next year, feed with phosphorus and potassium (without chlorine) - half a tablespoon of each (or a tablespoon of ready-made phosphorus-potassium fertilizer) per 10 liters of water per 10 sq.m. For the winter, it is better to cover the primrose with a layer of dry leaves, this will help them overwinter without loss.

As you can see, flowers do not require constant care from a gardener, and can grow and develop independently; they just need a little help.

Planting seeds for seedlings

Despite all the unpretentiousness of primrose, its propagation is impossible without the seedling stage. To get flowers in the spring, many species are sown as seedlings in January.

Important! Particular attention is paid to the quality of seed material. Since seeds quickly lose their viability, when purchasing, choose the freshest ones, focusing on the expiration dates indicated on the package.

Pre-sowing preparation includes stratification of primrose seeds, i.e. cold treatment. It is more advisable to combine it with biostimulation, which is carried out as follows:

• the seeds are placed in a freshly cut aloe leaf, previously cut on one side;
• the sheet is closed, secured with thread or rubber band and left in the refrigerator for a day;
• the next day, the seeds are removed, dried and sown in seedling containers.

To plant primrose seeds for seedlings, use a mixture of garden soil with vermiculite or river sand. They are sown on a moistened soil surface or on a thin layer of snow, evenly distributed over the surface, after which the containers are covered with film. Depending on the variety, such an event as a temperature swing may be required: throughout the day, the container with the planted seeds is exposed to the cold several times and brought back.

Seeds germinate in 2-3 weeks. The containers are placed in a bright place, the air temperature is maintained at +17-20˚C and watered moderately. Seedlings are picked at the stage of formation of 2-3 true leaves.

Small plants are fed every 10 days, using a weak solution of mineral fertilizers with a concentration 3 times less than indicated in the instructions. Grown seedlings are planted in the garden (when the threat of frost has passed) or grown at home.

About the method of germinating seeds in the video

Growing primrose from seeds

In order to grow primrose yourself, you need to put in a little effort and follow the proposed agricultural techniques.

Seeds can be sown in the snow

Spring sowing

• sowing of seedlings is carried out in February-March;
• prefers light soil, a mixture of soil, humus and sand, in a ratio of 1:1:1;
• stratification is required, so the container with the seeds is placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for a month, covering the container with a bag or lid;
• after the hardening procedure, the container with the seeds is returned to a warm room, placed on the windowsill and shaded from sunlight until the first shoots appear;
• As soon as the first 2-3 true leaves appear, the seedlings can be transplanted into pots.

Summer sowing

Primrose seeds lose their viability very quickly, so immediately after flowering you need to choose a place in the garden and sow the seeds in prepared soil. Use as many seeds as possible; in the summer heat the soil dries out quickly and this affects their germination. For the winter, it is better to cover young primrose bushes with spruce branches or leaves.

Please note that not all varieties of primrose can be sown from seeds collected from flowers and obtain the desired result. For example, it is better to sow terry varieties and hybrids from seeds purchased in specialized stores; in this case, you will receive the color and shape declared by the variety. Wild varieties will retain all characteristics unchanged.

Seeds should be sown in summer immediately after collection.

Pre-winter sowing

At the end of October - beginning of November, you can organize a small bed with light soil in a shaded place. When the soil freezes slightly, you need to sow the primroses in the furrows, covering the seeds with a small layer of soil mixture. In early spring, the soil after winter dormancy will be sufficiently saturated with moisture, which will have a beneficial effect on the growth of seeds and the subsequent growth of primrose seedlings.

Young bushes require additional shelter

Care

Primrose stored in containers and pots is watered only with soft water . When the layer of soil settles, new soil is added.

The container is placed in a place with moderate lighting and a temperature of +13..+15 degrees. Humidity is maintained using a greenhouse, which should be ventilated regularly.

With this care, the primrose will easily survive the winter and in May it can be sent to the garden.

Description of the primrose plant has bloomed, what to do

Primrose was Catherine II's favorite flower. During the reign of the queen, the entire Winter Palace was scented with these flowers. Imperial sets were decorated with small primrose inflorescences. Even today the British create entire flower beds from them, use the leaves of some species for vitamin salads and dry them in herbariums in memory of loved ones.

Knowing how to care for primrose and what conditions the delicate flower needs, you can easily create a real oasis of spring mood. And by planting the plant in open ground, you can create a spectacular alpine hill.

However, primrose is not as simple as you might think. Reviews from experienced flower growers show that after contact with this delicate and cute flower, irritation and rashes may appear on your hands. Therefore, people prone to allergies, as well as children, should not approach primroses.

Varieties of primrose have faded, what to do

Most primroses are low herbaceous plants that are most often perennials. Although there are also annuals. Distinctive features of the plant:

• shortened stem;
• fibrous rhizome;
• slightly pubescent leaves forming a basal rosette;
• flowers can be solitary or form a paniculate, racemose inflorescence;
• all flowers have a contrasting yellow spot in the center.

About 500 species of primroses are known. In indoor floriculture, only three varieties are most often used, presented in the table.

Table - Types of indoor primroses

Reproduction

Primrose is propagated by seeds and by dividing the bush. Seeds are sown in July-August in a moist mixture of sand and fertile soil (1:1), lightly sprinkled with soil.

Boxes with seeds are placed in a dark place with a temperature of 16-18 degrees and high humidity. When the shoots appear (after 10-20 days), the container is moved to a lighted place, but without direct sunlight.

Primrose seedlings need to be picked twice and transplanted into individual pots . Flowering is expected 6-8 months after sowing the seeds.

Reproduction by dividing the bush is carried out after the end of the dormant period, when the stems begin to grow. The bushes are divided into several parts and planted in loose nutritious soil. In this case, there is no need to deepen the outlet - it should be at soil level.

In order for the plant to take root better, the containers are covered with glass and placed in a lighted place. After rooting, new specimens are transplanted into pots with a diameter of 9 cm, and after another month - with a diameter of 13 cm.

How to plant seeds correctly in the fall?

If it is possible to sow primrose seeds immediately after they have been collected, then this should be done in high-quality garden soil in a box. The containers are buried in open beds. The soil is watered thoroughly before sowing. The sowing itself is carried out shallowly. Young flowers are protected for the winter with a dense layer of mulch (up to 12 centimeters).

It is best to sow seeds for the winter in boxes. This should be done when the first night frosts arrive and the soil begins to freeze. It is necessary to lay a thick layer of drainage at the bottom of the box. You also need to provide the box with plenty of drainage holes. The sowing itself should be done as thickly as possible, but the seeds are sown superficially, covering the top a little with soil.

To protect the flower, it must be covered with any non-woven material or film . This will save the primrose from snow, weeds and excessive humidity.

Attention : The container must be placed in a shaded place until spring. Young flowers will need constant watering. Even short-term drought is not acceptable for seedlings.