Lantana: growing an exotic flower at home


Tropical perennial shrub of the Verbenaceae family. It grows and develops quickly and requires a spacious room and bulky dishes.

It reaches 3 m in length. The branches are large and covered with bark. Thorns are rarely present. The leaves are green and heart-shaped. The flowers are located on a peduncle and form a ball. They change color during the growing season, which runs from May to October.

What does lantana look like?

Lantana is a genus of perennial plants belonging to the Verbenaceae family. It is widespread in South and Central America, with some species found in Africa and Southeast Asia. According to various sources, the genus contains from 140 to 170 species.

Lantana grows very quickly in nature

The name of the plant was given by the famous Swedish systematizer Carl Linnaeus. The ancient Romans called viburnum "Lantana". Apparently, the botanist’s choice was influenced by the characteristic corymbose shape of the inflorescences.

Lovers of indoor plants appreciate lantana for its unusual flowering. In addition to the fact that it is long-lasting (from April to October), the petals gradually change color. This happens literally before our eyes, within 2–3 days. At the same time, you can see scarlet, orange, bright yellow, and white flowers on the bush. They are collected in numerous dense inflorescences in the shape of an umbrella or an almost regular ball. Characterized by a pleasant aroma. If lantana has enough light, it can bloom continuously almost all year round.

Lantana inflorescences are in the shape of an almost regular ball

After flowering, small round berries appear, each containing two seeds. Unripe fruits are green, they cannot be eaten, they are poisonous. Ripe berries where lantana grows are eaten, most often added to various desserts. The taste is reminiscent of mulberry.

Unripe lantana fruits are poisonous

The plant branches intensively. In nature, it is a shrub or tree reaching 3 m in height. Lantana is characterized by its growth rate, so it needs regular pruning at home. You can shorten it to about 30–50 cm in height. The shoots are covered with smooth greenish-gray bark, sometimes with frequent thorns.

The opposite leaves are slightly pubescent. The average length is about 4–5 cm. They feel quite hard and rough to the touch, as if they were made of plastic. The leaves are shaped like nettles. The edge is cut in the same way with teeth. The veins are clearly defined.

The leaves also emit a specific tart aroma that not everyone likes. It contains notes of mint, lemon, camphor, and some smell an onion “amber.” A light touch on the flower is enough for it to spread throughout the room. However, others really like the smell. Dried lantana leaves are even used to make sachets.

Lantana's leaves are also pretty, but this is not the main advantage of the plant.

The leaves are also not very pleasant to taste, they give off bitterness. The plant secretes a special toxin that covers them with a thin film. This feature reliably protects lantana from attacks by domestic animals.

In countries where lantana is not an endemic plant, it is a real disaster. It grows very quickly, developing new territories and displacing the local flora. States are forced to take tough measures against the foreign “invader.” For example, in Australia and South Africa it is officially prohibited to plant lantana in parks and gardens, even private ones.

Where the climate allows and where it is not prohibited, lantana is widely used in landscape design.

Lantana has many nicknames. It is called “nettle” (for the characteristic shape of the leaves), “maiden word”, “changeable rose”, “switching flower” (for the “inconstancy” of color), “bacon and eggs”, “Spanish flag” (for a similar color scheme) . Other unofficial names are “coast rose”, “big sage”, “small berry”.

Lantana petals change color literally before our eyes

Pinching and pruning lantana: how to get a beautiful and lush plant

In the spring, when the plant moves from the dormant stage to the active growth stage, it is necessary to carry out the procedure of pruning its shoots and pinching them, as well as removing already faded inflorescences.

These procedures will help create the most beautiful crown of the plant, thick and luxuriantly blooming. Usually, with proper pinching, lantana flowers have so many flowers that the leaves become completely invisible behind them.

In addition, with the help of these simple manipulations, you can get a tree of the shape that is closest to the owner of the lantana:

  • standard tree;
  • ball;
  • ampelous flower.

Useful article:
How to improve the soil, its fertility, composition, structure

Types popular among amateur gardeners

Of the many species of lantana, only a few have adapted to home conditions. Most of the plants found in the apartments of amateur gardeners are selection hybrids, the “parent” of which is Lantana spinosa. Many of them have larger and single-colored flowers. The creators also “adjusted” other parameters. Such lantanas grow much more slowly and rarely reach a height of more than 30 cm.

Natural varieties:

  • Lantana spinous, spinous or vaulted (camara). The stems are spiny, hence the name. The leaves are rich green in color, egg- or heart-shaped, covered on the inside with short, soft, white “lint.” The “aroma” is specific, not very pleasant. The petioles are long. The color of the petals changes from bright yellow to scarlet or from pinkish to peach. Flowering occurs from May to October. The diameter of the inflorescences is about 5 cm.
  • Lantana Sello (selloviana). The shoots are thin, flexible, and look like whips. Leaves with a slight edge on the reverse side. The flowers are very small (3–5 mm in diameter), pinkish-purple. The bases of the petals are bright yellow.
  • Lantana Montevidensis (montevidensis). The shoots are as flexible and curly as those of lantana Sello, becoming woody at the base. The flowers are brighter, lavender or purple. The leaves are small (2–3 cm in length). The diameter of the inflorescences is 2–3 cm. There are natural mutations with white or yellowish flowers.
  • Lantana rugulosa. Shrub 1–1.2 m high. Shoots are straight, covered with small thorns. The leaves are dark green, the front side is rough to the touch. The flowers are pale purple.
  • Lantana sage (salviifolia). An intensively branching shrub about 2 m high. The shoots are thin and curly. The veins stand out very sharply. The shade of the petals varies from pastel pink to pale purple.
  • Blood red lantana (sanguinea). The height of the bush is about 1.5 m. The shoots are thin and erect. The leaves are large (6–7 cm), oval with a pointed tip. The flowers are red-orange.
  • Lantana hybrid (hybrida). Compact shrub 70–80 cm high. The leaf blade is “wrinkled”. Lemon yellow buds change color to red-orange.
  • Lantana variegata. It is distinguished by variegated leaves with pale green, white and silver spots. This artificial modification greatly weakens the plant, so it needs more careful care.

Photo gallery: “natural” types of lantana grown at home


Lantana variegata stands out not only for its abundant and long-lasting flowering, but also for its variegated foliage. Lantana hybrida, despite its name, is a natural variety.


Lantana has blood-red monochromatic inflorescences


Lantana sage-leaved has very bright flowers. Lantana wrinkled owes its name to the appearance of the leaf blades.


Lantana monewidea is very similar to lantana Sello, but its flowers are of a more saturated color


Lantana Sello has very small flowers and not so dense inflorescences


Lantana spinosa is most often found in the apartments of gardeners

The achievements of breeders are very impressive. The material for most experiments is lantana spinosa.

Photo gallery: achievements of breeders


Lantana Ice Queen, Snow, White Dwarf - snow-white flowers, very pure shade


Lantana Tutti Frutti - yellow gradually changes to orange, then to pink and deep purple


Lantana Tukan - pale yellow or cream flowers bloom in early spring


Lantana Esperanta Pink - petals of a very delicate mauve shade


Lantana Calipso Gold - shiny, chrome-plated yellow petals


Lantana Bandana Pink - pink or crimson flowers, among all breeding hybrids it differs in size (up to 80 cm in height)


Lantana Samanta - bright lemon-colored flowers and lime-colored leaves


Lantana Sonja - flowers shimmer in different shades of pink and yellow


Lantana Naida - snow-white petals with a bright yellow base


Lantana Schloss Ortenburg - very beautiful saffron flowers


Lantana Sunkiss, Coctail, Po - petals are brick red, copper or terracotta


Lantana Aloha has pale golden flowers.


Lantana Spreading Sunset - a very interesting creeping plant, flowers of different shades of yellow and orange


Lantana Pink Queen - yellow buds with a pinkish tint and pink-crimson flowers


Lantana Cloud Of Gold and Goldensonne - rich golden yellow petals

Types and varieties of lantana with photos

Lantana Camara

The plant has climbing stems with small thorns. The branches have hard, gray-green, heart-shaped or oval-shaped leaves. Their upper side is smooth and slightly rough, and there are short fibers underneath. Bright paniculate inflorescences form in the axils of the leaves in May. They consist of small tubular flowers. Young buds are yellow or pink, but over time they become red or orange. Flowering continues until the end of summer.

Popular varieties:

  • Golden Cloud - bright yellow flowers;
  • Cocktail – blooms in terracotta and orange colors;
  • Naida - snow-white buds with a yellow core;
  • Pink Queen - Salmon-yellow flowers that gradually turn bright pink.

How to create an optimal microclimate for a plant

Lantana is a tropical plant, but it has adapted surprisingly well to the radically different microclimate of modern apartments from its usual one. It tolerates low air humidity easily. The only thing the plant needs is a lot of light.

Table: optimal conditions for growing lantana

FactorRecommendations
LocationWindow facing west, east, southeast, southwest. Lantana is very afraid of cold drafts. In summer, you can take it out onto the open balcony or into the garden, protecting it from wind and rain.
LightingA very light-loving plant. Can tolerate some direct sunlight (3-5 hours a day), but the best option is bright, diffused light. In winter, you cannot do without additional lighting. Use regular fluorescent or special phytolamps.
TemperatureIn summer - 22–27ºС. Below 20ºС is undesirable. During the rest period - 5–12ºС. This is an indispensable condition for abundant flowering for the next season. The plant is gradually brought out of hibernation, ensuring a temperature of about 14–18ºС in early spring.
Air humidityIt exists calmly at the standard 40–50%. In hot weather, daily spraying is recommended. At the same time, you need to be careful - overmoistening is harmful for lantana. And make sure that the drops do not fall on the flowers. You can raise the indicators in another way - place wet pebbles, expanded clay, sphagnum moss in a tray, place containers with water nearby, and purchase a special device.

The main requirement of lantana for keeping conditions is good lighting.

Medicinal properties of lantana

Traditionally, lantana of the verbena family belongs to plants with excellent medicinal properties. Previously, it was actively used in the treatment of such serious illnesses as malaria, paralysis or even a snake bite.

The Spaniards use lantana to combat skin damage: cuts, bruises, wounds and dermatitis.

For stomach pain, cold viruses and rheumatism, a decoction of lantana leaves was taken. Dry leaves served as a repellent.

It is important to remember that lantana fruits when unripe are toxic and pose a threat to the health of both people and their pets.

BEAUTIFUL FLOWERS!
Nerine flower or Spider Lily Weigela Hydrangea

Transplant procedure

Since lantana has a different growth rate, replanting it is an annual procedure. The best time for this is early spring, before the active growing season begins. If you don’t choose a large pot or tub, the powerful root system can fill the container and in less time, the plant will need to be replanted “out of schedule.” Roots protruding from the drainage holes clearly indicate that the need is ripe. If the clear signal is ignored, lantana simply will not bloom.

The plant has no special requirements for soil quality. The main thing is that it is loose enough to allow air and water to pass through well. The acid-base balance is neutral - pH 6.6–7.0. Store-bought soil is quite suitable for flowering indoor plants. Sometimes there is also a special soil for Verbenaceae, but rarely.

You can mix the substrate yourself:

  • fertile turf, leaf soil, humus, fine sand (2:4:1:1);
  • peat chips, universal soil for flowering indoor plants, coarse river sand or perlite (1:2:1);

It is quite difficult to find special soil for Verbenaceae, but regular substrate for flowering indoor plants is also suitable for lantana.

If it is difficult to replant lantana due to its size (it is difficult to remove the plant from the pot), limit yourself to replacing the top layer of substrate 5–7 cm thick. In other cases, replanting is carried out by transshipment, keeping the earthen ball intact if possible.

It is easier to remove lantana from the pot if you water the plant thoroughly half an hour beforehand.

During the replanting process, do not forget that you need to create a thick (4–5 cm) layer of drainage at the bottom of the new pot and cut off 2–3 mm of the roots that have formed a solid “pile” at the bottom with a sharp, clean knife. The transplanted lantana is watered moderately and sent to light partial shade for 3–5 days to minimize the stress received by the plant.

Experienced gardeners recommend planting 2-3 lantana bushes in one pot. Firstly, if they are of different varieties, such multi-colors look very elegant and original. Secondly, for an unknown reason, this stimulates branching - the plants increase in volume by 1.5–2 times.

Popular questions and answers

Agronomist-breeder Svetlana Mikhailova answered typical questions from amateur flower growers

How to choose lantana?

Lantanas are very rarely sold in retail stores, so you will have to look for the plant in online stores or from collectors. This is the case when the plant cannot be inspected before purchasing, so look online for reviews about the store or private seller from whom you intend to buy the plant and the quality of its product.

What kind of pot do you need for lantana?

The pot for lantana should be about 3 cm wider than the root system. The depth of the pot must be chosen so that a layer of drainage 3-4 cm thick fits on the bottom. A clay pot is preferable: firstly, it heats up and cools more evenly, and, secondly, it is weighty and will become an additional “counterweight” for stability plants, because the crown of lantana is quite large and heavy.

Is it possible to root lantana cuttings brought from the south?

Of course, you can take a risk, although long transportation of the cutting reduces its chances of rooting. The cuttings may take root, but the likelihood of good growth and flowering of such lantana is not very high. Varieties and hybrids that are grown indoors are adapted to conditions that are very different from natural ones. An “outdoor” plant is unlikely to feel good in them.

Is it possible to grow lantana in open ground?

It is possible, in the Moscow region it is sometimes planted in flower beds as an annual, and in the southern regions - as a perennial. Sometimes lantana is used as a garden container crop: this is convenient, since the pots can be brought to a cool terrace for the winter, where the plant can safely overwinter.

Important nuances of flower care

For tropical exotics, lantana is completely unpretentious. In nature, this is a real weed. The gardener will not be required to arrange “dances with tambourines” around the plant. But you can’t just put the pot on the windowsill and forget about it.

Watering

Blooming lantana needs plenty of watering. But you can’t turn the soil in a pot into a swamp - rot develops quickly. Wait until the substrate dries to a depth of 1–2 cm. Lantana, which does not have enough moisture, quickly drops its buds. If it is not hot outside, one watering every 3-5 days is enough. After 35–40 minutes, be sure to drain excess moisture from the pan.

Don't forget about other water treatments. Lantana loves them very much. While the plant is not blooming, you can wash it in the shower; the rest of the time, regularly wipe the leaves with a damp sponge or soft cloth, removing dust.

Fertilizer application

Abundant flowering takes a lot of energy from lantana. Therefore, she needs regular feeding. Any universal fertilizer for flowering indoor plants will be suitable. Once every 12–15 days, it is watered with the prepared solution, reducing the dose of the drug by half compared to that recommended by the manufacturer. You should not overuse fertilizing, otherwise it will begin to intensively increase green mass to the detriment of flowering.

Lantana needs regular feeding; a universal fertilizer for flowering indoor plants is quite suitable.

Lantana also responds positively to natural organic matter. You can use, for example, an infusion of fresh cow manure diluted with water 1:15. It is better to carry out such fertilizing before flowering. Excess nitrogen can prevent flower buds from forming.

Trimming

Radical pruning of lantana is carried out in early spring, after the end of the dormant period. You can combine it with a transplant. First of all, they get rid of old side shoots that are unsightly stretched out and “bald” from below. Of the remaining ones, pinch out each of the top 2-3 leaves - this has a positive effect on the abundance of flowering.

Bonsai enthusiasts have successfully miniaturized lantana

During the flowering period, do not forget to get rid of dried buds. In their place, new ones are formed.

The lantana crown is easy to shape. Here the florist is limited only by his own imagination. The most common options:

  • Ball-shaped bush. Shorten the shoots to create the desired configuration. Then, every year, remove about a third of the length, and also get rid of poorly placed shoots that clearly extend beyond the selected contour.
  • Standard tree. It is formed from plants aged three years or older, whose shoots have become lignified. Select one upright, strongest branch; all others located below the desired height of the “trunk” are cut to the base. You will definitely need support. Above, the crown is formed in accordance with the selected configuration. The “trunk” is regularly cleaned of emerging lateral growth.
  • Ampelous plant. Choose lantana varieties with thin, creeping shoots. It is enough to place the plant in a hanging pot and periodically shorten the vines to the desired length. For greater bushiness, cut every third shoot in half in the spring.

The lantana “tree” looks very impressive

“Trees” look very impressive, into the crown of which several shoots of other varieties are grafted. The unusual variety of colors immediately attracts attention.

Rest period

Lantana needs a cool winter. This is a prerequisite for flowering for the next season. From mid-autumn, watering is gradually reduced (one procedure every 12–14 days is enough), and fertilizing is stopped altogether.

Lighting requirements do not change. For a “resting” lantana, they look for the brightest place in the apartment. In most of Russia, there is not enough natural light, so you have to use fluorescent or special phytolamps.

Some selection hybrids bloom almost continuously, so they do not need wintering. They need to be moved to the window sill facing south so that the leaves do not touch the cold glass. There is no need to protect from direct sunlight - at this time it is not so active.

Video: appearance and important nuances of plant care

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Seasonal care and wintering

How to care for a plant during its hibernation and wintering? At this time, it is best to move the container with the plant to a cooler place. The temperature there should be slightly lower than usual. After a few days, lower it another couple of degrees. Having reached the mark of 10..15 degrees, it is necessary to leave the plant until spring.

You will need to water the soil periodically to prevent drying out. Spray the air around the pot as well. Observe the light regime (6-7 hours a day).

Typical mistakes of a beginning gardener

Most unintentional mistakes by the grower will not kill the lantana. But they negatively affect its decorative effect. The plant may refuse to bloom altogether. This is the most obvious signal - something doesn’t suit him. But there are other alarming symptoms that you need to be able to interpret.

Table: how lantana reacts to grower mistakes

What does the plant look like?What is the reason
Lack of flowering.Failure to provide the right conditions (especially temperature) during the dormant period, deficiency of nutrients in the soil. Either the flower has not been replanted for a long time.
The leaves become smaller, turn pale, and the shoots become thinner.Lack of light.
The tips of the leaves turn brown, dry out, and the leaf blades curl into a tube.Too little watering and/or very low indoor humidity.
Pale spreading spots on leaves.Burn from direct sunlight.
The leaves turn black.Abundant watering combined with low indoor humidity. The flower needs to be sprayed more often, and watering, on the contrary, should be reduced.
Leaves fall.Autumn leaf fall is a natural phenomenon. During the active growing season, it can be triggered by heat or low humidity.
The bases of the shoots turn black and the soil becomes moldy.Low temperature combined with high humidity. The development of rot is almost inevitable.

Common diseases and pests

Lantana does not have any specific pests. Of the insects that feed on the sap of plants, for some reason the whitefly is especially partial to it. The appearance of pathogenic fungi is often provoked by the grower himself by watering the plant too much.

It is easier to prevent any problem than to deal with unpleasant consequences. Simple preventive measures will help reduce the risk of infection to a minimum:

  • placing newly acquired collection items in quarantine for 3–4 weeks;
  • weekly inspection of flowers (you can even use a magnifying glass) and immediate isolation of those that show suspicious signs;
  • placing pots on the windowsill without being too crowded;
  • regular ventilation of the room and wiping the leaves from dust;
  • using only sterilized substrate, clean tools and pots;
  • proper watering of plants (once every 2-3 weeks you can replace ordinary water with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate);
  • removal of dried leaves and buds, regular sanitary pruning;
  • weekly irradiation of leaves with a quartz lamp on both sides (two to three minutes is enough).

Table: diseases and pests typical of lantana

Disease or pestExternal manifestationsControl measures
Root rotThe bases of the shoots turn black, spots of the same color appear on the leaves. The soil becomes moldy and gives off an unpleasant putrid smell. The disease is treatable only in the early stages of development. Then all that remains is to throw the flower away.
  1. Remove all fungus-affected leaves and shoots. Sprinkle the sections with crushed chalk, activated carbon, and cinnamon.
  2. Remove the plant from the pot, clean the roots from the substrate, soak them for half an hour in a 2% solution of any fungicide (Previkur, Maxim, Discor).
  3. Replant the plant by completely changing the soil and sterilizing the pot. Add Glyocladin to the soil.
  4. For 2–3 months, water the flower not with ordinary water, but with a 0.5% solution of Skor, Alirin-B, Baikal-EM.
Gray rotBeige spots on the leaves, covered with a layer of fluffy grayish “lint” with small black splashes. Then these areas of tissue soften, the leaves fall off, and the buds turn black.
  1. Cut off any fungus-affected leaves. Treat the “wounds.”
  2. Spray the plant and soil with a solution of Horus, Teldor, Zineb.
  3. For a month, when watering, alternate with regular water and a 0.5% solution of Topaz, Skor.

For prevention, every 2-3 months you can spray the plants with a 0.1% solution of Fundazol, Bayleton, Topsin-M.

RustSmall oval “pads” of yellow-orange color on the underside of the leaves, which over time become covered with a layer of “pollen” of the same shade.
  1. Cut off and destroy infected leaves.
  2. Spray the plant with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture or Baktofit, Abiga-Peak.
  3. After 10–14 days, repeat the procedure.
Brown spotLight olive spots on the front side of the leaves. Those at the bottom suffer first. Gradually, the leaf plate turns yellow, and a gray-brown coating appears on the underside.
  1. Dispose of disease-affected leaves.
  2. Treat the flower and soil with a solution of Fitosporin, Gamair, Vectra.
  3. Repeat 2-3 times with an interval of 7-10 days.
AphidSmall insects of yellow-green or black-brown color, clinging to the underside of leaves, tops of shoots, and flower buds.
  1. Apply soap foam to the leaves, and after an hour, wash the plant in the shower.
  2. Spray the flower 3-4 times a day with infusions of onion, garlic, orange peel, and infusions of any strong-smelling herbs.
  3. If there is no effect, use Biotlin, Iskra-Bio, Confidor-Maxi.
  4. Repeat the treatment 3-4 times with an interval of 4-7 days.
MealybugSpots of whitish coating, the plant seems to be covered in flour. Leaves, flowers and buds quickly dry out and fall off.
  1. Wipe off visible plaque with a cotton pad soaked in a soap-alcohol solution. After 15–20 minutes, wash the plant in the shower. Cut off damaged flowers and buds.
  2. Treat the flower and soil with Mospilan, Actellik, Fozalon, Aplaud.
  3. Repeat 2-3 times at intervals of 5-12 days. Change medications - the pest quickly develops immunity.

For prevention, once a month, spot-apply any preparations based on Neem tree oil to the leaves.

WhiteflySmall whitish butterflies flutter from the plant at the slightest touch.
  1. Hang sticky tape next to the pot to catch flies or leave the fumigator running for 2-3 days.
  2. Vacuum any visible pests early each morning.
  3. Spray the flower several times a day with infusions of mustard powder, hot pepper, and tobacco crumbs.
  4. If there is no effect, use Lepidocide, Aktara, Fitoverm (with an interval of 3-5 days until the pest completely disappears).

Photo gallery: diseases and pests that affect lantana


For unknown reasons, the whitefly is very partial to lantana.


Mealybugs may seem like a harmless pest, but they are not.


Aphids are one of the most “universal” pests of indoor plants; they will not refuse lantana either


All leaves affected by brown spot should be cut off and destroyed.


“Pollen” on the leaves are spores of a pathogenic fungus


Leaves affected by gray rot quickly dry out and fall off


Root rot can only be treated in the early stages of the disease.

Reproduction at home

The easiest way to grow new lantana is by rooting cuttings. The grower receives planting material (even in excess) during the pruning process. It is rarely propagated by seeds due to the difficulties associated with their acquisition. At home, they bud infrequently; moreover, the characteristic varietal characteristics of the “parents” are rarely transmitted to the “descendants”.

Cuttings

A lantana stalk is the tip of a semi-lignified shoot 8–12 cm long. They are cut only from completely healthy plants.

Lantana cuttings appear in abundance at the grower after each pruning

  1. Allow the sections to dry for 2-3 hours outdoors.
  2. Powder them with any powdered root formation stimulator (Zircon, Heteroauxin) and plant them in small pots filled with moist peat, deepening them 2–3 cm. Some gardeners recommend rooting cuttings in pure perlite or vermiculite. First remove any interfering lower leaves.
  3. Place the containers in your home mini-greenhouse or create “greenhouses” using plastic bottles or plastic bags. Provide a constant temperature of about 20ºC and bright, indirect light for 10–12 hours a day. Regularly ventilate the plantings and spray the drying substrate with a spray bottle. After a week, gradually reduce the level to 12–15ºС.
  4. When the cuttings take root and begin to grow, remove the greenhouse.
  5. For greater compactness and bushiness, regularly pinch the cuttings throughout the year, thus removing the growing point and 1-2 top leaves every 2-3 months.

Lantana cuttings rooted in spring will bloom at the end of this summer

Video: rooting lantana cuttings

Germination of seeds

Seeds are sown at any time from the New Year to the beginning of spring.

Lantana seeds are quite rare on sale; growing them at home is also not easy.

  1. For 2 hours, pour the seeds with hot (55–60ºС) water with the addition of an activated carbon tablet or several crystals of potassium permanganate. Then place it in a solution of any biostimulant (succinic acid, potassium humate, Epin, Kornevin) for the same time.
  2. Wrap them in a damp cloth or gauze, wetting it as it dries.
  3. Fill shallow containers with a mixture of peat chips, perlite, and vermiculite. Moisten and level the substrate.
  4. Sow the seeds when sprouts appear. Lightly sprinkle fine sand on top, cover with glass and plastic wrap. Provide them with a temperature of 22–25ºС and bottom heating. Spray the soil as it dries.
  5. Seedlings appear in 10–15 days. When a pair of true leaves has formed, lower the temperature to 14–16ºС. Once they reach a height of 8–10 cm, plant them in separate pots filled with soil suitable for adult plants. Then take care as usual. After two weeks, it is recommended to pinch and feed the plant for the first time.

Lantana seedlings need fairly low temperatures for proper development.

Young lantanas resemble herbaceous plants rather than bushes or trees. They bloom longer and more abundantly than adult specimens. Therefore, many gardeners, instead of bothering with replanting, prefer to rejuvenate the plant.

Flower propagation methods

Lantana can be propagated in two ways: seeds and cuttings.

Propagation by seeds

Planting material can be purchased in specialized stores. It is better to sow it in early February in previously prepared loose soil. After the sprouts appear, the seedlings are transferred to a cool place. Then follows its picking and subsequent planting at a permanent place of growth.

Propagation by cuttings

To obtain cuttings, about 10 cm of shoots are cut. The cut is treated with a growth stimulator, after which it is planted in a mixture of peat and sand. Rapid rooting of cuttings is possible in a cool place, so the plant is moved to a room with a temperature of 16-18 °C.

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