How to get rid of mites on orchids? Description of different types of pests and measures to combat them

Types of insects with descriptions and photos

The following types of mites can attack orchids::

• Root. This is a small spider, which is characterized by the presence of 3 pairs of legs, mustaches and a relatively large oval body. The pest is hardy, so it can remain without food for a long time. The main food is plant residues and underground parts of plants.
• False arachnoid. Pest. whose body grows only 0.3 mm in length. The body can take on different shades - from red to greenish. This variety does not entwine the plant with a web, so it can only be noticed after the appearance of a whole colony.
• Red spider mite. The danger of this parasite lies in the fact that most drugs act on it, so the pest is able to remain on the surface of the plant for a long time. The body may be red, yellow or orange.
• Bulbous. This species is small and moves slowly. The length of the bulb mite reaches 0.6 mm. The color of the pest is brown, the jaws are the same color. Spherical limbs.
• Flat-bodied. One of the smallest parasites, the length of its body does not exceed 0.3 mm. The body is oval in shape, the body is flattened, the color is yellow-red. There are many short bristles on the body.
• Armored. Representatives of spider mites. They live in soil and soil; the main source of nutrition is dead parts of the orchid.

Root mite:

False arachnoid:

Red spider:

Bulbous:

Flat-bodied:

Armored:

How to recognize

It is very difficult to visually detect an individual individual due to its small size. This can be done by careful examination using a magnifying glass or under a microscope. More often, gardeners become aware of the presence of an insect when there are already large clusters. Usually the pest settles on the underside of leaves.

When you press firmly on the white webs, a reddish liquid appears - the result of crushed oviposition.

In places where the tick appears, yellow spots, a white powdery coating that looks like a fungal disease, and white cobwebs form.

In advanced cases, the spotting becomes black. After a certain period, the affected area of ​​the plant dries out and dies, leaving behind depressions and holes.

What should I use to get rid of it?

How to deal with cobwebs?

Having discovered a spider mite on an orchid, you can begin to fight it in the following ways:

• Biological. It is enough to have several walls of predatory beetles or mites - they will help the grower get rid of small mites.
• Chemical. Insecticides are used. Moreover, the drugs need to be alternated, since the parasite develops immunity to insecticides.
• People's At the initial stage of spider mite development, you can use a decoction of cyclamen. Boil the roots for half an hour, leave for 24 hours. After this, pour the solution into a spray bottle and spray the orchid for 4-5 days, 3-4 times a day.

Bulbous

When a bulbous type of parasite appears, you must immediately change the soil in the flowerpot and disinfect the container. You can completely get rid of the bulb mite in the following ways:

• Folk. This method can be used only in the early stages of the appearance of the bulb mite. The best option is a solution of laundry soap (dilute 20 g of soap in a liter of warm water). Wipe the green surfaces of the flower with the finished mixture or immerse it completely in soapy water for 30-40 minutes.
• Chemical. In this case, broad-spectrum insecticides are used. However, you can also use narrowly targeted drugs that fight ticks specifically - acaricides. The cooking method is indicated on the package. The concentration can be made less, but in no case stronger, since the product can destroy the plant.

Reference! The biological option for controlling bulb mites is not suitable in this case.

Kornev

This type of tick is very difficult and takes a long time to remove. In addition, root pests are characterized by their ability to reproduce rapidly. As soon as you notice this pest on the surface of the plant, all affected parts must be removed immediately. Don't forget to treat the cut areas with activated carbon. Affected crops must be isolated from other healthy ones.

In addition, the following methods are used to combat root mites:

• People's A decoction of nettle will do (take 700 g of dry herb for 5 liters of water and leave it in a dark place all day). The orchid is sprayed with the product 4-5 times a week. The decoction will not only help get rid of pests, but also increase the protective functions of the plant.
• Chemical. Acaricides remain an option for controlling root mites. In addition, insectoacaricidal agents, for example, Acaritox, are a good way to combat pests. Use it strictly according to the instructions described at intervals of a week. Also effective drugs are the following: Verticillin, Nematofagin and Dachnik.
• Biological. Natural oils are suitable.

Flathead

This type of parasite is difficult to destroy, so it is best to start fighting them with chemicals. You need to choose acaricides, since insecticides will be ineffective in this case. Suitable chemicals:

• Actofik;
• Fitoverm;
• Vermitek.

In addition, you can use folk remedies, for example, soap solution. Rubbing the leaf plates with alcohol also helps.

Attention! Biological agents will not help in destroying the flatworm.

Armored

This pest reproduces in the soil, so you need to start fighting it immediately after detection. First of all, the orchid is taken out of the pot and soaked in water at room temperature for 30 minutes.

In a few minutes it will be noticeable how the parasites emerge. After 30 minutes, the plant must be removed from the water and dried. To obtain maximum effect, it is recommended to carry out 2-3 procedures.

The best chemicals are:

• Aktellik;
• Karbofos;
• as well as Sumiton.

In addition, you can buy predatory mites in the store , which will help get rid of parasites. One package will be enough for this.

Do orchid mites harm orchids?

In fact, oribatid mites do not cause obvious harm to either orchids or other plants. Oribatid mites Oribatida are one of those living creatures that make the soil structure by grinding, actually chewing, fallen leaves and all organic debris, including feeding on fungi and algae.

Among oribatid mites there are no species that feed on living tissue, even if it is young shoots. In fact, panic and myths were born mainly on Russian-language resources. There is no mention among orchid societies in Canada or the United States that orchid mites can in any way injure young seedlings of phalaenopsis or other orchids.

As an example, so as not to be unfounded, I will quote Paul Johnson, a professor of entomology at South Dakota State University, from a work on November 22, 2008: “Quite often, many species of harmless mites are found with orchid crops, which feed on fungi, bacteria and rotting organic material. There are also several beneficial mites that are predators and feed on herbivorous mites, insect pests and other critters. Oribatids, which look like tiny round, dark-colored bugs, feed on fungi on the roots of plants, products of decay of organic materials."

They hide under the dry scales of bulbs and bulbs.

Black shiny oribatids measuring just under 1 mm.

But oribatid mites can cause indirect harm - they are carriers of helminth eggs, as well as nematodes. Therefore, it is advisable to prevent their appearance in soil for flowers. To do this, it is enough to heat the prepared substrate in the oven, scattered on a baking sheet in a layer of about 5 cm at 200 degrees for 20-30 minutes to destroy pests and pathogens.

Oribatid mites carry fungal spores and bacteria on their legs, and they crawl not only on healthy tissue - if a leaf or root breaks off on a plant, the mites will immediately climb onto the fresh scrap. And at the same time they will bring in a bunch of microbes. Therefore, all breaks and cuts on the orchid must be dried, but not with brilliant green, but with colloidal sulfur or crushed birch charcoal.

Real, simply lethal damage to the leaves of orchids and other plants is caused not by oribatid mites, but most often by a broad mite - Polyphagotarsonemus latus - a microscopic mite that you cannot detect even with a magnifying glass, only with a microscope. Signs of its appearance are deformation of the tops of shoots, ulceration and curvature when unfolding a young leaf. The saliva of broad mites is toxic and the signs are similar to a chemical burn: shriveled brown edges of budding leaves and buds. Less commonly, yellowing and gray spots. It is the broad mite and its brother, the cyclamen mite, that are the main and main pests in greenhouses, including industrial greenhouses with orchids.

Two types of mites were found on this orchid: a spider mite, which produces gray stripes, and a broad mite (close-up).

The broad mite has characteristic eggs - completely transparent with white bumps (through a microscope).

Prevention of infection

To protect orchids from mite attacks, you should adhere to the following recommendations:

1. Periodically dry the soil in which the crop grows.
2. Spray the orchid regularly and make sure that water does not get into the sinuses. Otherwise, the flower will begin to rot.
3. Follow the watering schedule. Do not moisten the soil until the top 4-5 cm has dried.
4. Maintain optimal air humidity. Remember that ticks appear in rooms with dry air. The easiest way to increase air humidity is to place a container of water near the crop. It is enough for the container to stand near the crop for half an hour a day. This is enough for the water to evaporate and humidify the air.

Controlling mites on an orchid is very difficult. Reanimating a plant after a pest attack will be very problematic. Therefore, try to carry out preventive measures to save the culture.

General tips for treating and preventing orchid diseases

General tips for treating and preventing orchid diseases will help you take care of the health of the plant. So, it is important to know the following:

1. Dry the soil where the plant grows from time to time.
2. Spray the flower regularly to maintain a comfortable humidity level. At the same time, prevent drops of moisture from getting into the sinuses of the plant, as this will lead to rotting of the orchid.
3. Normalize the watering regime. Remember that the plant needs watering once every seven days. In summer this amount can be increased to twice a week, and in winter it can be reduced to once every 10-14 days.
4. Take care to maintain normal moisture, since a comfortable environment for ticks to form is dry air. You can further increase the humidity by placing a container of water at room temperature near the plant.
5. You need to use only fresh and high-quality substrate to prevent the introduction of tick eggs.
6. Regularly inspect the leaves and stem of the orchid to immediately notice the problem and begin to solve it.

Caring for an orchid is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. In fact, it is enough to maintain conditions acceptable for the plant: room temperature 22-26 degrees, humidity about 40%-50% (more is possible, but up to 70%), illumination through soft diffused light for 8-10 hours, absence of drafts and direct sunlight. And then the likelihood of ticks and other pests will be minimized.

If the parasites do take root on the plant, now you know how to quickly and effectively fight them. Try to start fighting when ticks first appear, preventing the colony from growing.

To understand how to effectively remove mites that have infested an orchid, you should watch the video below.

Reasons for appearance

Infection of plants with spider mites often occurs after the acquisition and placement of new indoor crops in the apartment. Even if the flower growers exchanged some exotic flowers among themselves. Infection is sometimes facilitated by damaged soil used for planting.

Insects are able to enter the home due to the wind and can be carried on clothing. Pests can appear due to high air temperature (which results in dry air), low humidity, and the application of fertilizing in excessive quantities.

Sometimes accidental infection with this type of pest occurs. Insects infect the base of the stem or axils of flowers. They also live on the windowsill, window or walls of the flowerpot. Later they move to the phalaenopsis itself. When the window is open, parasites can enter the crop from the foliage of trees.

What parts of the flower may be affected?

Mites can attack leaf blades, flower stalks, and the buds themselves. You can also find them in soil mixtures. However, some species of these animals cannot be seen without a magnifying glass.

What do the affected areas look like?

Very small gray blotches appear on the green part of the plant. The leaves also begin to change their shape and dry out at the edges. When the infection reaches a high concentration, a web will appear on the orchid. Too short peduncles and deformed flowers are also the work of mites. Plus, a purulent process begins at the growing points of the orchid.

In some areas, a metallic sheen appears due to the fact that the bite site fills with air and swells slightly. If this shine is not present, then the bites can be recognized by the depressions formed - in these places the ticks have sucked out the juice and made them lifeless.

Harm from ticks

The pest can destroy the flower

The danger of ticks lies in their active reproduction. Each female is capable of laying up to 200 eggs. In just 2-3 weeks, a parasitic insect develops from a larva to an adult fertile individual.

It feeds on plant juices, biting through the upper layer of the epidermis and introducing a special enzyme that decomposes the cell structure. As a result, elastic tissues turn into destroyed biomass.

The affected areas become open to the penetration of pathogenic microorganisms and fungi.

If the pest is not completely destroyed in unfavorable conditions for it, the insect in the larval stage enters a state of diapause, stopping development for a period of up to 5 years, completely restoring vital activity with a change in microclimate to a suitable one.

Folk remedies for pest control

Folk remedies help correct the situation, but only when the problem only makes itself felt. Today, some of the most popular are: treatment with medical alcohol and a decoction of cyclamen tubers.

In order to prepare a decoction of tubers, they must be divided into small parts and boiled for forty minutes. Afterwards you will need to wait a day and strain the tincture. Spraying with the decoction is carried out several times with a break of 4-5 days.

As for treatment with an alcohol solution, it is carried out with extreme caution. To begin with, liquid is poured onto a swab, a small area of ​​the leaf plate is wiped, and then, if nothing happens to the leaves, the entire plant is treated in this way.

Why are they dangerous?

Orchid parasites not only quickly destroy the plant, but are also carriers of various diseases. A plant susceptible to spider mite attack weakens, and its immunity is not able to cope with additional infection

• bacterial;
• viral;
• fungal.

At the site where the consequences of the mite attack occur, weeping spots form, subsequently the leaf turns yellow and falls off, and the parasite moves to another area of ​​the flower.

Mealybug - traditional methods of treatment

1. Horsetail tincture. For mealybugs, you can water and spray diseased plants with horsetail tincture. Horsetail is sold in pharmacies and is used as a diuretic, blood purifier, etc. The German name is Schachtelhalmtee. You need to brew the composition according to the instructions on the package, let the preparation cool and carefully generously spray all the leaves and trunks of infected plants, spraying the leaves both above and below.
2. Oil spray for spraying. 1 liter of water is mixed with 2 tablespoons of olive oil, and then the emulsion is applied to the plant (best by spraying), it is believed that the oil does not allow adult mealybugs to breathe and they should suffocate. However, this remedy will not affect pest eggs, since they are in a dense shell.
3. Alcohol solution with soap. Treating the mealybug plant with a mixture of 3 tablespoons of liquid soap, 10 ml of denatured alcohol (Brennspiritus) and 1 liter of warm water can also be successful. Mix the mixture thoroughly and spray on diseased plants.
4. Garlic tincture. Take 4-5 cloves of garlic per 0.5 liters of water. The water must be brought to a boil, and the garlic must be finely chopped or squeezed. Then pour boiling water over the garlic and leave for 3-4 hours. We filter the infusion through cheesecloth and apply it undiluted with a brush to the leaves affected by mealybugs, if your plants are small, or by spraying.

How effective are folk remedies for treating mealybugs?

Mealybug - methods of traditional treatment for it have the advantage only that they do not have a strong odor, which is from chemical preparations, this is their undoubted advantage.

But, as the modern practice of floristic maintenance of plants shows, in organizations and offices it is inappropriate to use traditional methods - insufficient efficiency, not 100% death of eggs, larvae and adult mealybug insects. Multiple treatments will also be required. Therefore, it is more effective in plant care companies to use modern chemicals. This is clear.

The best advice is that if you have mealybug found on your plants, in order not to lose them completely, we recommend turning to professionals to treat the plants. Florists have their own professional products, and we also prepare special mixtures - chatterboxes, which are not sold in flower shops.

Do you have any questions? Do mealybugs eat plants? Call our florists!

Spider mitePhytopathologist

Description of the spider mite

Pest type

Spider mites (Tetranychus urticae) belong to the arachnids of the arachnid family. The family is so numerous (more than 1000 species) that its distribution is widespread, with the exception of Antarctica. Below in the photo you can see a common type of spider mite.

Spider mites belong to the arachnid family.

It is quite difficult for a gardener to detect due to its very small size. Even a well-fed tick does not exceed 0.5 mm, and they:

• Soft-bodied;
• With a convex upper part and a flat lower part;
• Ellipsoidal type.

The color, depending on the stage of development, changes noticeably. The larvae themselves:

• Transparent;
• With dark spots on the sides.

Depending on the culture, their color ranges from light green to green-brown. Unlike the adult pest, which has 4 pairs of legs, the larvae have 3 pairs.

The color of spider mites varies, but on orchids they are usually green or red. Sometimes white mites are also found.

Unlike most insects, spider mites do not have antennae, but they do have strong, heart-shaped jaws and two stylets that help them bite into dense leaves.

Features of life

A special feature of such pests is their ability to weave webs. This is the reason for the name. Another representative, Tenuipalpus pacificus or red mites, called false mites, do not spin webs, so they are very difficult to detect. Its other name is false mites.

Attention! The main location of spider mite colonies is the inside of the leaf, so the presence of the pest cannot always be detected visually.

With their strong jaws, they bite through the leaf plate to feed on juice. He injects a special substance, which, penetrating into the cells of the leaf membrane, forms juice, which is the main food of the malicious pest.

As a result, the sheet begins:

• turn yellow;
• Small translucent dots appear on it;
• And in a short time the leaf dries out completely.

With the loss of each leaf, the following is significantly reduced:

• Efficiency of photosynthesis;
• Plant development;
• And soon it stops altogether and it dies.

It’s especially annoying when a colony of mites bites into flower petals. The entire aesthetic appearance of the blooming tropical beauty is ruined.

Favorable climate for life, reproduction and distribution

Ticks can reproduce all year round if:

• Dry air;
• With humidity below 40%;
• Ambient temperature above 25° C.

Under unfavorable conditions, they fall into a state of diapause. The female can lay about 200 eggs in groups of varying numbers.

After a 3-day stage, larvae emerge from the eggs. The stages of development happen very quickly. Within a week, the larva turns into an adult with the ability to reproduce.

Females can lay eggs anywhere, from the roots to the walls of the container. The surprising thing is that under uncomfortable conditions for the development of egg colonies, they stop their development, which even after 5 years can restore their vital activity.

The life cycle largely depends on environmental conditions. Full stage of development depending on ambient temperature:

• t-20°С – 20 days;
• t-25°С – up to 12 days;
• t-30°С – up to 6 days.

Stages of tick development.

Life expectancy under comfortable conditions ranges from 15 to 30 days.

The light, weightless mass of the spider mite allows it to enter the home flower garden not only with newly acquired plants, but also through open windows from the street.

Symptoms and causes

The most common mites found on home orchids are true (green) and false (red) mites. White mites can cause orchid disease.

Below you can see the oribatid mite in the photo (black).

Spider mites usually appear on the back of the leaf.

Symptoms of a pest appearing on a plant are:

• Cobwebs located in most cases on the back side of leaf blades;
• The appearance of white spots on the leaf blades, increasing in size over time;
• Curling and drying of the leaf apparatus.

Cobwebs are one of the symptoms of a pest.

The reasons why the pest appears on orchids at home are very diverse:

• It can be introduced with newly acquired plants;
• Put on clothes;
• Fly into an open window or window;
• The eggs may be in untreated soil or an old flower pot.

Attention! Spider mites are capable of appearing wherever they are provided with acceptable living conditions.

How to get rid of white bugs?

When a problem is first discovered, treatment should be done immediately.
The first is to isolate the affected plants so you can prevent the small bugs from infesting other houseplants. Then you need to kill these pests using organic products and strategies. It is not recommended to use synthetic pesticides because... how small bugs are resistant to most chemical pesticides. They also have the ability to develop resistance to any chemicals they are exposed to on a regular basis.

When treating a plant, you need to look at the surface under the leaves, around their junctions, in the folds and at the base of the plant for the presence of pests.

These elusive plant pests like to hide, so check the plant from all sides and under every leaf. Also remove some soil to check the base of the stem where it sticks out of the dirt, as well as around the edges of the pot. You may find some mealybugs there.

It will take several treatments to get rid of all the mealy bugs, so be sure to treat your plant daily and kill any bugs that are visible.

Conditions of appearance and signs of damage

On phalaenopsis, root mites will multiply quickly when:

• dry air;
• high temperature;
• provided that the plant has a weakened immune system.

Experts have found that the spider feels comfortable when:

• temperature +28+32C;
• humidity less than 50%.

Flat-bodied ticks can develop in closed ground throughout the year, and they do not require special conditions. High humidity can only slow down the transformation of a small individual into an adult, but this process is inevitable.

Important!

To prevent the plant from becoming infected with pests, it is prohibited to use contaminated planting substrate taken from the garden bed. Even if there is a need to use such soil, it must be prepared and processed.

Mites on an orchid are located to feed on the juices of the flower. This occurs by piercing the surface of the foliage or stems, through which the pest introduces a substance that can destroy the cell membrane. This helps to accelerate the secretion of juice and its release through the affected area, through which the spider feeds.

Through the hole made, air penetrates into the structure, and this leads to the transformation of green foliage into silver, it becomes covered with cobwebs. Soon the leaves will turn yellow, and the affected areas will quickly spread throughout the plant, causing them to fall off.

In some cases, cobwebs can be found not only on the foliage, but also on the surface of the buds. This is a sign of the presence of a large spider colonization, and if the orchid is not treated for mites, it will die. What will happen:

• gradual yellowing;
• curling the tips of the leaves;
• drying out;
• death of leaves and buds.

If the orchid is not treated, mites can cause a bacterial, viral or fungal disease, as evidenced by the presence of dark spots and weeping areas.

Symptoms of mite damage to orchids

Insect control measures should be chosen depending on the signs of the presence of a spider. It is too difficult for inexperienced gardeners to detect arthropods, especially without using optical instruments. Education can be considered a characteristic feature:

1. Cobwebs are silvery or white on the underside of the leaves, which, when pressed, acquire a reddish tint and transform into a liquid substance.
2. Small white spots on the surface of the leaf blade, which look like many injections made with a thin needle, which leads to the death of the affected tissue.

Note.

Over time, the dots merge into brown spots, which is why the green areas die off. Injections can be seen in the area of ​​the leaf axil; you need to regularly inspect the plant.

How to inspect a plant

The fight against spider mites on orchids begins with a thorough examination of the flower to detect parasites. They look different, and therefore it is worth studying all their forms. Since it is almost impossible to examine the spider, you need to pay attention to the following points:

• accumulation of insects on the back of the foliage;
• sudden decline for no reason;
• formation of large and white spots;
• white cobwebs throughout the plant;
• twisted and dried leaves.

Do not confuse black and white spots, as the former are a sign of fungus and mold. Having eliminated the fungus, you should not assume that the problem is solved, since the immune system is weakened and the colonies will begin to actively grow further. Parasites prefer young and succulent foliage, and therefore it is young plants that die.

Favorable conditions for pests

• Arachnoid. For them, favorable conditions in which they can live and reproduce unhindered are warm and dry air. The reproduction process occurs in the ground when the temperature does not drop below 12°C. Under favorable conditions, they are capable of producing about 20 new generations. The development cycle takes 12-20 days; the higher the temperature, the less time is required. When the temperature is 28-32°C and the humidity is kept within 45%, the process of development to an adult takes only 6 days.
• Flat beetles. These individuals are absolutely not capricious and do not require any special conditions for reproduction. Reproduction occurs indoors all year round. If by increasing humidity it is possible to create conditions for spider mites that will slow down their development, then in this case this method will not bring results.
• Bulbous. Their life cycle is completely dependent on temperature; they prefer warmth and when the temperature drops, development slows down significantly. For example, if at a temperature of 16-28°C it takes about 10 days to develop, then when the temperature drops to 20°C this process will take more than two weeks.