Pruning an orchid after flowering, how to prune a faded orchid

Orchids, if properly cared for, will bloom profusely. Over time, the flowers dry out and gradually fall off on their own. Whether to cut this stem or not depends primarily on the type of orchid you have. How to properly prune an orchid after flowering will be described in this article.

An orchid is a plant that requires special attention and care. If you neglect this, the flower will stop growing and releasing buds. If you treat it correctly, it will delight you with flowers for a long time.

The orchid needs pruning after flowering. This will promote healthy growth and development.

Do I need to prune my orchid after flowering?

After the growing season, it is not always necessary to get rid of the peduncle. But you must wait until the period when you need to prune the orchid. Cupping begins only when it is completely dry. At this time, the plant is preparing for sleep. In the Russian climate, the ideal period is late autumn - late October - November.

Signs of imminent relief:

• yellowing, drilling of the flower-bearing arrow;
• drying out of the shoot;
• long period of rest (more than six months).

Important! One of the main criteria that all reserves have been used is the drying of the tip of the stem.

Many gardeners do not know how to prune an orchid for fear of harming it. But the correct procedure does not harm the plant, especially young flowers, but helps to accumulate energy reserves for the growing season.

Further care

Create conditions appropriate to the type of orchid:

• First of all, eliminate the reasons for pruning leaves;
• Provide for each type of orchid: Lighting;
• Temperature;
• Humidity.

Watering and fertilizing require special attention after pruning. They need to stop for a while. About 10-15 days. To avoid introducing any infection into the cut areas. Let them heal.

• Do not trim undamaged areas of leaves;
• Do not trim healthy leaves. No matter how many (in your opinion) there are on the plant;
• Remove yellowed and wilting leaves only when they come off without much effort. Pull them lightly with your fingers.

How to prune a faded orchid in different cases

For pruning an orchid after flowering, the most suitable phase is the “sleep” phase, when it has completely bloomed, the stems have dried out, and new buds do not appear. If you miss the favorable time, budding will begin again and the plant will weaken.

Important! The time of pruning depends on the type of flower and the condition of the peduncle.

Before trimming an orchid after flowering, you need to carefully examine the flower arrows. They should not have buds or swollen buds - “babies”.

Depending on the variety of orchid, determine how to prune it after flowering.

1. The Ludisia cut is made at an angle and covered with activated carbon or iodine.
2. The dried flower-bearing arrow of Vanda is trimmed, leaving a stump 2 cm from the base. You cannot cut off a wilted stem.
3. Bletila, Miltonia, Miltoniopsis, Tselogina, Miltassia are cropped after the growing season.
4. The Dendrobium pseudobulb is cut off after complete drying.

To understand how to properly prune an orchid, you need to find out its variety. The color, shape of buds, leaves, and height will tell you about the variety of phalaenopsis.

Peduncle with wilted flowers

If there are wilted but not dried flowers on the orchids, then there is no need to prune after flowering. Young buds may soon appear and shoots may form.

Note! Flowering on side shoots is less abundant.

To form “babies”, side arrows, it is allowed to trim the stem above the last bud.

The peduncle remained green

So should you prune your orchid after flowering if the stem is still green? As a rule, cupping is postponed. Usually, young buds and shoots appear on the arrow. The education period takes up to three months.

If there is a need to shorten the phalaenopsis, then the cut shoot is placed in a container with water to form “babies”. In the spring, stimulating cupping is carried out, but not completely. Cut the arrow at a height of 2 cm from the last bud. New “babies” will appear in the summer.

The peduncle has turned brown and dried out

If the arrow has turned brown or dried out, it is removed immediately, but only after making sure that the shoot is dry. The withered shoot supplies the phalaenopsis with nutrients accumulated during the growing season. This promotes growth and restoration of the flower.

If the shoot is dry, then it is removed at a distance of 2 cm from the outlet. A new arrow forms after a few months.

The peduncle has not completely dried out

How to trim orchids if the stem is not completely dry? If the arrow is only partially dry, you need to wait. Dormant buds can form new buds.

By pruning the plant early, there is a risk of delaying the appearance of buds for at least 6 months. If the shoot is partially dried out, the drying does not spread; only its dry part is cut off.

The peduncle has dormant buds and gradually fades

Only observing phalaenopsis will help you make the right decision. Dormant buds can release new buds and delight with flowers and “babies.”

The formation of shoots and buds is facilitated by cutting the peduncle 1.5 cm above the bud. But this method does not always “awaken” dormant buds.

Important! Pruning may delay the formation of new flower stalks. The plant spends its accumulated energy on supplying the old frog with nutrients.

Proper care and cropping guarantees regular budding and the “birth” of new shoots.

Removing all leaves

We also have to deal with extreme situations when caring for orchids. And even remove all the leaves. The reasons are different :

• We made mistakes in caring for flowers. First of all, problems with excessive watering of the plant;
• Low room temperature and high humidity contribute to this;
• The lighting was created inappropriately;
• Severe damage and burns can occur if you forget to provide shade from the sun.

All orchid leaves are removed more often when they are in a neglected state.

But not all the roots died. And they remain hopeful for recovery and resuscitation. I don't really want to lose a beautiful orchid. Or very valuable to you.

How to save such a plant?

Carefully assess the condition of the plant . For damaged and rotten roots:

• Remove the flower from the container. Remove all remaining substrate;
• Place the roots briefly in warm water. Dry them well after this procedure;
• Remove damaged and dried roots and leaves;
• Plant the prepared flower in a container. With fresh soil.

Aftercare

• Give this flower a well-lit place (southwest or southeast side, special illumination with a phytolamp). Avoid hot sun exposure to the plant;
• Provide the humidity and temperature . Avoid drafts;
• Spraying the soil at the initial stage is sufficient.

And further:

• If you notice signs of leaf disease, don't wait for them all to fall off. Measures taken in a timely manner will even save some. And look through the roots;
• Follow the life cycle . Don't confuse natural leaf change with disease;
• Check your store-bought orchids carefully. Especially their roots.

Should I leave the flower stalk?

The peduncle requires good nutrition from leaves and roots. A weakened orchid will not be able to fully nourish it. She herself needs to get stronger.

Flower growers and experts do not advise leaving it . So as not to risk the entire orchid. She will then delight you with new flowers.

Pruning an orchid after flowering: basic rules

For the well-being of phalaenopsis, it is necessary to understand how to prune orchids after flowering. This will reduce the risk of injury and death.

If it doesn’t bloom for a long time, then perhaps there is an excess of green mass. In this case, remove excess greens in the following order:

• cut off the lower leaves first;
• the leaf is divided in half lengthwise and torn to the stem;
• tear off the greens from the base;
• wait until it dries out, postponing watering.

The same needs to be done with dried foliage. Young shoots or aerial roots form under it.

Tools

The main thing needed for the procedure is tools:

• garden pruner;
• stationery knife;
• alcohol.

Unlike scissors, pruning shears cause less damage to the flower shoot. To crop orchids, use a sharp utility knife, but before cutting, the tool must be disinfected, for example, with alcohol.

Disinfection

Disinfection of instruments is a mandatory stage of the procedure. This will prevent the phalaenopsis from becoming infected and dying. Secateur blades are treated with alcohol or chlorine.

Important! It is better to carry out disinfection with gloves to prevent skin burns from chlorine!

You can immerse the tool in boiling water for a few minutes.

Determining the location of the cut

Often the arrow grows long, and the buds are based on its tip. There are two outcomes of the situation:

• leave as is;
• trim the plant 2 cm above the active bud.

Usually, the arrow is cut off above the second bud of the flower-bearing arrow from the rosette.

Important! The closer the cutting point is to the rosette, the more abundant the budding of the side shoots.

After docking, phalaenopsis begins to bloom no earlier than 2 months later.

Slice processing

To reduce the risk of infection, the cut point must be treated. It is lubricated with a solution of brilliant green, iodine or covered with crushed activated carbon.

Sometimes the stem is hollow inside. When watering, water flows into the formed stump, which leads to rotting of the rosette and the entire phalaenopsis. To avoid death, the cut site is filled with beeswax.

Saving a perennial

What if you had to cut off all the leaves of a plant? The main point here is the cause of leaf damage.

There may be several reasons. This:

1. Improper conditions of detention.
2. Incorrect watering.
3. Diseases (it is necessary to examine the root, the cause may be there).

After finding out the reason, it will become clear what to do next. Once the diagnosis has been made, treatment must begin . If the orchid cannot be cured (for example, it is affected by rot), then it should be disposed of in order to protect the rest of the plants.

Diseases that damage leaves:

• 
  Brown rot . Characterized by the appearance of light brown and watery spots.

• Black rot . The leaves turn black and become covered with spots. The cause may be low air temperature or parasites.
• Root rot . With this disease, the leaves become brown and the roots rot.
• Fusarium rot . Yellowness and spots appear on the leaves.
• Gray rot . It is characterized by the appearance of dark spots that are covered with a grayish fluff-like coating.
• Spotting . With this disease, the leaves become lethargic, weak, and then dark spots appear on them.
• Anthracnose . Its characteristic features are small round brown spots. If the disease is neglected, the spots become larger and the plant may die.
• Powdery mildew . A white coating appears on the leaves, they shrink and dry out. In most cases it leads to the death of the plant.

When will the flower bloom again after pruning?

Cupping is stressful for any plant. At this time, provide sufficient watering so that the soil does not have time to dry out, irrigate the leaves and substrate.

During the resting phase, phalaenopsis stores energy. At this time it is important to ensure:

• comfortable temperature conditions (16C⁰ at night, up to 24C⁰ during the day);
• moderate watering;
• large distance from radiators;
• diffused light source.

It is not recommended to change the location of the potty during the rest phase. This can not only cause stress, but also injure the flower. The only condition for moving is an uncomfortable atmosphere: too high a temperature, dry air, insufficient lighting. In this case, the leaves become wrinkled and turn yellow.

Water the flower with warm water, without getting it on the foliage. This will prevent rotting and disease. Spray it only during the day. It is important that the drops have time to dry before sunset.

If the correct conditions are observed, the vegetative period will begin 2-3 months after cropping.

Note! The dormant period differs depending on the type of phalaenopsis.

Identification of diseased and healthy foliage

It is very simple and even a novice gardener can do it. Healthy leaf:

1. green, uniform;
2. elastic (flaccid);
3. there are no stains, cracks, or putrefactive formations on it;
4. the inside must also be healthy and free of pests.

Signs of diseased leaves:

• lethargy;
• cracks;
• spots;
• yellowness;
• putrefactive formations (black brown gray);
• uneven color;
• presence of parasites.

Advice! If at least one of the signs is present, then you should pay attention to the health of the orchid. Such signs serve as a signal of a serious illness.

Conditions for proper maintenance

In fact, the orchid is a fairly unpretentious houseplant. All she needs is:

• Good substrate (better to buy at a flower shop);
• A well-lit window sill, without direct sunlight and drafts;
• Regular watering with settled water as needed. Less often in winter, and more often in summer.
• A transparent pot of the right size so that the substrate has time to dry completely before the next watering, but at the same time does not dry out too much;
• Special fertilizers specifically for orchids, which must be applied according to the instructions.

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

Orchid leaves turn yellow for several reasons. Usually, specimens that bloom beautifully and luxuriantly are purchased. Trying to extend the flowering time, inexperienced amateurs make a bunch of dangerous mistakes - they abuse inappropriate fertilizers, water too much, replant, place in the hot sun.

But when environmental conditions change, the plant, especially the flowering one, experiences stress and therefore requires a long adaptation period. Quarantine is tolerated for at least 12-15 days - the orchid should be kept separately during this time, observing it daily. If the roots were still in a store-bought substrate made of bark or sphagnum, then after 2 weeks they can be replanted and then not disturbed for at least 2-2.5 years.

When a plant is not in order, it becomes noticeable almost immediately by the condition of the leaves - after 4-6 days. If a flower periodically dies, several lower parts fall off, this is considered a normal aging process - a leaf is born, develops, gradually matures, and dries out.

In the Nobile orchid, sometimes the entire crown falls off, which is also the norm. When a part withers, it is not recommended to tear it off right away - it will fall off on its own later. This process occurs several times annually. Cases of drying out of the lower processes of a newly acquired specimen are just consequences of the stress suffered.

The cause of the problems is improper watering

Parts of a plant may turn yellow or fall off for reasons not related to natural processes. With improper care, various alarming symptoms appear - it does not bloom for a long time, it stops growing, growths appear on the leaves and stems, spots that are unusual for the species. All this indicates that the flower should be treated a little differently.

One of the most common mistakes when caring for orchids is improper watering. This reason is the leading one, since the flower is overly sensitive to fluctuations in soil moisture.

When the problem is overwatering, there is more water than required for normal growth, it stagnates. As a result, the earthen ball becomes compacted, the roots do not have enough air, and the lower leaves turn yellow. If bacteria begin to multiply in a humid environment, black-brown spots appear on various parts of the plant, the foliage, stem, and roots become too soft.

Those who have been growing crops for a long time recommend using transparent pots - they are convenient for monitoring the condition of the middle and lower layers of the soil. Some people simply pierce the ground with a wooden knitting needle at the edge of the container - if the stick gets wet, this is a sign that there is still enough water. The weight of the flowerpot determines whether watering is needed.

A lack of moisture occurs when the irrigation method is incorrect - with high drainage, it simply leaves without having time to nourish the root system. Young shoots require a lot of nutrition for active growth, so old leaves are sorely lacking in it, they turn yellow and dry out. In this case, you should change the watering method - for 2-3 weeks you need to place the flowerpot with a flower in a moist structure every day so that the soil is completely saturated. The condition of the flower quickly returns to normal.

Poor moisture quality. When there is enough of it, but it has many impurities of heavy metals and chemicals, it is not useful. If the leaves are too hard, they will continue to turn yellow due to “salting” of the soil. You can soften water by passing it through a filter or letting it sit for 3-4 days. Experts recommend using rain, melt, snow, and spring water. Watering with boiled liquid is undesirable. Salty soil needs to be replaced with new soil when the plant fades.

Required lighting

Excessive or insufficient lighting also has a detrimental effect on the condition of the flower, which is very picky in this regard. Its different species are accustomed to different brightness - some are considered shade-tolerant, others need a lot of sun and artificial lighting. Only knowing the exact name can you create the required mode:

• Light-loving varieties, such as Dendrobium, Oncidium, Cattleya, Lellia, Vanda, are placed on southern windows, but not in direct sunlight. The temperature is acceptable for them +28-32 degrees.
• Cambria, Miltonia, Odontoglossum, Cymbidium, and other flowers that need morning and evening sun are placed in the area of ​​eastern and western windows.
• There are certain species that require very little light. They are placed on northern windowsills; the sufficient temperature for such plants is 19-26 degrees. These include Phalaenopsis, Lady's slipper.

In winter, when there is not enough lighting, fluorescent lamps come to the rescue, which should be turned on for 2-4 hours in the evening. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the plants do not overheat - this can lead to their death.

Sunburn is not uncommon for the hybrids sold in most stores. If the orchid develops yellow-brown spots under direct rays, the plant has been burned and will soon lose diseased leaves. It is difficult to treat this problem; it is easier to prevent it. When even a small damage is noticed, urgent measures must be taken - close the window with a newspaper, a curtain, hide the flower behind other open-toed flowers, etc. If a very small area is damaged, the plant will be able to restore it in a couple of weeks.

The right fertilizer

Often there are problems with feeding - in addition to normal lighting and watering, sufficient nutrition is required. Inexperienced gardeners sometimes overfeed plants, believing that the more the better. This is not so: a sense of proportion is important in fertilizer, the choice of a special composition suitable specifically for the orchid.

When feeding most hybrids, many rules should be followed:

• each variety has its own fertilizing - the composition, frequency, dose of fertilizer for each variety is different;
• It should be fertilized in spring, in autumn - in summer, in winter it is better to avoid it;
• from the moment of acquisition, the orchid is not fed - it must adapt well;
• The prepared fertilizer is thoroughly shaken so that the nutritional components are distributed evenly;
• when a flower is sick or damaged by pests, these problems should be solved first and fed after;
• for young orchids, nutrition is provided through watering - the solution is added to the water;
• any fertilizer must necessarily contain phosphorus, potassium, nitrogen in various proportions;
• in some regions, moisture from the tap is low in iron, so it should be periodically added as part of special solutions;
• one feeding should contain no more than 50% of the dosage recommended according to the instructions;
• The orchid does not need special compounds that are designed to stimulate growth.

When there is clearly too much useful elements, the lifespan of the flower is unlikely to exceed 2-3 years, it will look bad, and then die. The yellowing edges of the leaves indicate that there is too much calcium in the soil - the soil needs to be replaced. Lack of nutrition is dangerous. With potassium deficiency, the upper part of the crown turns yellow. Later, dying veins become noticeable. Young shoots and leaves take minerals from older ones, sometimes the whole plant falls off completely. To save the hybrid, immediately change the substrate.

Yellowing of leaves due to diseases or parasites

Insects and diseases attack the orchid no less often than other domestic flowers. It is susceptible to most known pests. If there are suspicions of the presence of pests, the tropical plant is isolated from others and control measures are taken.

A variety of sores occur with a sharp change in temperature, problems with the amount of light, or improper watering. Sometimes, when there is a lot of crowding, an orchid catches them from other specimens. Bacteria, viruses, and fungi create dark or yellow spots and tubercles on leaves and stems. Asian varieties are damaged mainly by infection, which attacks them during long-term transportation, hypothermia, and severe stress. Dark stripes and rings then appear on the leaves.

Dangerous orchid pests:

• aphid - affects the lower tender part of the leaf, which becomes very sticky;
• woodlice - dangerous for orchids that grow outdoors;
• spider mites - build the finest web under the leaves, between the shoots;
• scale insect - appears in the form of growths over the entire area of ​​the stems, very numerous;
• nematode worms - severely deform the crown, the flower practically stops growing;
• thrips - translucent winged insects appear when air humidity is low, leaving silvery marks on the stem and soil.

When a plant begins to turn yellow too quickly, it is urgent to establish the cause and take appropriate measures. The orchid is carefully examined from all sides, lifting each leaf. If an infection is detected, opening the tubercles is strictly not recommended - they contain the mycelium and its spores. Such sores are sprayed with a fungicide. In cases of extensive damage, it is necessary to remove the damaged parts; the sections are lubricated with iodine.

When a virus is diagnosed, the orchid is treated with a fungicide with antibiotics. Aphids are destroyed with a soap solution at room temperature, after which they are sprayed with infusion of orange and lemon peels - 100-150 grams of peels per 1 liter of water. It is advisable to repeat the procedure up to 5 times a day for 6-7 days. You can use the drug Fitoverm.

Spider mites are washed off with running water, treated with Neoron, Tiofos, and covered with a bag for 3-4 days. To combat scale insects, a tablespoon of olive, rapeseed or linseed oil is diluted in 0.5 liters of water, applied to the affected areas three times every 7 days, and then sprinkled with Actellik, Fitoverm. Thrips are removed with clean moisture and soap, the affected areas are removed 3 times with Actellik every 10 days.

If a flowerpot with a flower in it is dipped into a large container of water, the woodlice floats up after a while, after which the roots are thoroughly washed without damaging the orchid, and the orchid is transplanted into fresh soil. Nematode microworms will die if the ambient temperature is above +40 degrees; this is fatal for this crop. Therefore, at home, it is recommended to dilute Dekaris and Levamisal tablets in water and pour the solution over the substrate with roots.

When are the causes of wilting in care?

Growers take pruning seriously. There are good reasons for this. The leaf may turn yellow and begin to fall off due to natural aging. But improper watering causes:

• rotting of the root system due to excessive moisture in the pot;
• greens wilt and wrinkle when there is not enough water.

Everything should be fine:

• lighting;
• temperature regime;
• feeding;
• pot size;
• soil composition.

Only diseased foliage is removed; yellowing due to phalaenopsis should not be confused. If such a process is typical for an orchid, then the sprout continues to be provided with useful substances. This can be checked when the leaf falls off with a light touch, which means it has ceased its functions; if it continues to hold on, the plant still needs it. When leaves become lethargic, the cause may be:

• lack of moisture;
• direct exposure to sunlight;
• appearance of pests.

Regular preventive measures and proper care will save the grower from many problems and eliminate harmful formations.

Pests

Most of all, ticks and white-winged moths love the orchid. Due to mite infestation, the roots and trunk of the plant do not receive enough nutrients and moisture, the leaves are the first to react, they turn yellow and lose their elasticity. To save the flower, treat it with a special preparation and, after completing a full course of spraying, transplant it into a new substrate. When whiteflies appear, the flower is covered with a white, fine-grained coating, the leaves quickly wither and fall off, and the flower stalks may dry out. To restore the leaves, use a soap solution, it will remove plaque, then spray with a special solution against pests. The procedure is repeated for several weeks in a row until complete recovery.