Fuchsia: growing and caring at home, wintering in an apartment

Tips for growing and caring

Fuchsia will become a real joy if you provide it with comfortable conditions for the entire process of flower growth - from planting to rest between seasons. It is important to know the rules for caring for fuchsia, especially during wintering at home, which depend on its place of growth (open ground or flowerpot).

Watering

Fuchsia is one of those plants that love moisture. The shrub tolerates both spraying and watering directly at the roots. Watering should be done in small doses every day. The lack of moisture will become noticeable when the soil dries to a depth of 1 centimeter. But don’t get carried away, as too much water will inevitably lead to the formation of mold and rotting of the roots. This situation can be prevented by creating a drainage layer using expanded clay or carefully cleaned pebbles.

Light

Fuchsia is a heat-loving flower, but it should not be placed in direct sunlight. The presence of reflected light and partial shade is sufficient. When choosing the location of the flower, it is worth considering the aspect of contrast. Flowers of dark shades require more light, while flowers of light shades will do well in a dark corner.

Soil mixture

The best soil mixture for fuchsia is considered to be chernozem soil with leaf humus. It is necessary to feed the flower regularly. When flowering, it is necessary to use fertilizers of natural origin with a small proportion of nitrogen. Fertilizers are used in combination with irrigation liquid, but you can also add it directly to the soil.

Important! With the onset of cold weather, there is no longer any need to fertilize fuchsia, due to the fact that in the biological cycle of the flower the dormant stage begins and it does not need nutrition.

Room temperature

Fuchsia originated in countries with warm climates, but high temperatures are not suitable conditions for its growth. At temperatures more than 25 degrees above zero, the plant withers. In summer, fuchsia should be hidden from the sun by placing the flowerpot in a cooler place, and creating shade for the flower garden.

Wintering fuchsia in the refrigerator. Preparing fuchsias and pelargoniums for wintering: tips from Yulia Minyaeva

At the beginning of the season, many summer residents take pots to the dacha and take them out into the open air. With the onset of cold weather they return home. A plant like this is often planted in the spring, but in the winter it must be dug up and stored for storage.

Geraniums We will talk about how to prepare pelargoniums (geraniums) and fuchsias for wintering.

fuchsia

When bringing a fuchsia (or other indoor plant) into the house that has stood outdoors throughout the warm season, you need to be aware that unwanted “guests” can also enter along with it. These are whiteflies, spider mites, and aphids. Quite quickly, all these pests will spread to other house plants, and then to the seedlings, which you will begin to grow at the right time. To make the autumn transition process painless, it is necessary to pay special attention to pest control. The plant may look completely clean, but after placing it in a warm place, small white butterflies - whiteflies - appear out of nowhere. And the most unpleasant thing is that they settle not only on plants, but also in crevices, where they spend the winter well and wait for seedlings.

Delicate fuchsia A good treatment for Fitoverm, but often it is not strong enough, so I use Aktara. This is a reliable drug, but you need to remember that spraying must be repeated after 5-7 days. You can choose products for treating plants against pests on our market, where products from various online stores are presented. View a selection of the drug "Aktara". Before storing the fuchsia in the cellar (temperature +4...+5°C), I water it, trim it and make a paper cap in the same way as for pelargonium. This will be discussed in more detail below. No more manipulations are required, the plant overwinters well without additional watering or anything else.

pelargonium (geranium)

pelargonium, unfortunately, does not tolerate our winters, and therefore requires temporary relocation to more acceptable conditions. Many people think about how best to preserve this plant during the cold period. I will share my experience. After it's time to remove the geranium from the street, I move the plant into the house, where it sits for about 2 weeks. Watering stops completely, since in winter the geranium enters a dormant period; it almost never blooms at this time.

Pelargonium does not tolerate our winters. If your pelargonium grew in a flowerbed, then in the fall you can dig it up, place it with a lump of earth in a paper (not plastic!) bag, tie it on top and put it in the cellar. Another option is more suitable for plants that were in outdoor flowerpots in the summer. Such pelargonium needs to be transferred to a temporary pot. For further manipulations, you will need a water-based stationery proofreader (for example, “Stroke”), sharp pruning shears, newspapers, paper tape and a hydrogel soaked in water. I cut off all the green branches of the plant to the woody part, leaving a not very beautiful “snatch”. All green leaves from this snag are also removed. Cuts on the branches are treated from rotting with the “Stroke”, the plant itself is watered a little.

A paper cap is formed from newspapers. Now a paper cap is formed from newspapers using tape, and the newspapers are wrapped on top. In this form, the plant is lowered into the cellar (temperature +4...+5°C) and stored all winter.

Newspapers are wrapped on top. In early spring, after removing the cap, the plants do not look very attractive, but after pruning and adding nutritious soil, they quickly wake up.

cuttings

I prepare cuttings from the cut green mass of pelargonium and root them. To do this, I remove the peduncles and most of the leaves, trim them from the bottom to lush greenery and lower them into the prepared hydrogel.

Cuttings are prepared from the cut green mass. After a while, roots will appear, and then I will plant them in pots and place them on a cool windowsill. In the spring I will have at my disposal several fully mature plants with a good root system that can be planted in flower beds and flowerpots. In the next video
clip you will see in detail how pelargonium and fuchsia are prepared for winter. You can also learn how and with what help it is convenient to fix roses when bending down to the ground, and how to insulate them after stable cold weather sets in. I hope my experience in preparing flowers for winter will be useful to you. Share in the comments how you preserve your fuchsias and pelargoniums until spring.

Preparing fuchsia for wintering

In winter, a dormant stage begins in the “life” of a flower, which is explained by fuchsia getting used to climate conditions when the temperature drops and there is very little sunlight for normal life. Fuchsia needs to rest, restore energy reserves and prepare for future flowering. Preparation tips:

Reduce watering. It is necessary to reduce the volume of watering gradually. You should completely stop watering the flower after a month. It is necessary to start reducing watering in the first month of autumn, since then the fuchsia will be completely dehydrated before the first frost.
Stopping the plant from feeding. It is necessary to stop feeding fuchsia to stimulate the shedding of leaves and flowers. An action of this nature is a “sign” for fuchsia about the need to reduce activity.
Reducing the amount of incident light. It is necessary to place the plant at a sufficient distance from the window. The plant should only receive light reflected from the ceiling and walls. If it is not possible to create such conditions, a lamp is suitable, which must be turned on once a day for a couple of hours.
Decrease in temperature. The pot should be placed on a glazed balcony, left in the basement or other place where the temperature is no more than +15oC.

Features of preparing for the cold season

In autumn and spring, fuchsia has a period of active growth, reproduction and flowering, and in winter it goes dormant (read about how to properly propagate fuchsia by cuttings here, and from this article you will learn how to grow a new plant from a leaf). The flower needs good lighting all year round. Watering in winter is carried out less frequently than usual. The earth ball should not dry out completely before the next watering. In autumn, the plant needs to be moved to a cool place, and if there is no such place, then coolness should be created artificially.

Where to start preparing the plant for winter:

The first thing to do is leave the plant outdoors until the first frost. If you bring fuchsia indoors before the cold weather, the lignification process will be interrupted.
Since the beginning of autumn, the flower has not been fertilized. Feeding is not needed, since by this time it accumulates a sufficient amount of nutrients.
To prevent the crown from stretching out, the buds are smaller and there is lush flowering in the spring, pruning is done.
Before wintering, it is imperative to inspect the fuchsia. It is necessary to remove all yellowed leaves and dry stems.
Also, experienced flower growers advise carrying out treatment based on rapeseed oil, Rapsol. Spraying will protect the flower from pests.

Preserving plants in the basement and cellar

To preserve fuchsia in the cold season, it would be advisable to place it in the basement. But we should not forget that before moving the plant, it is necessary to shorten the leaves. In the absence of light, the plant breathes in the same way as in open space, that is, useful elements are consumed. The room should be well ventilated, otherwise humidity will rise, which will cause fungus.

Important!

The best temperature for fuchsia in the basement is at least +10 degrees.

If there is no cellar

If there is no cellar or cold basement in the house, fuchsias can be stored in trenches in winter. In this case, a long hole, called a kagat, 60-80 cm deep is dug in the ground. Fuchsias in this case are also pruned. Then the plants are placed in a trench on their side directly in the pots and covered with straw, dry grass or leaf humus. Such an insulating layer should have a thickness of at least 5-10 cm. Earth is poured on top of the straw.

It is allowed to make such a trench directly in the garden. In this case, it is covered with snow on top. Also, some summer residents store fuchsias in winter in piles dug inside the greenhouse. In this case, after filling with earth, the hole is additionally covered with spunbond.

How fuchsia endures winter in an apartment

Not everyone has the opportunity to place fuchsia in the basement for the winter. It is believed that it is quite possible to create comfortable conditions for wintering fuchsia at home, but it is worth considering that this requires regular ventilation of the room. With the arrival of autumn, plant cuttings are transplanted into soil with a small proportion of humus, which slows down the growth process of young shrubs.

If a gardener observes the germination of fuchsia in winter, he should not hesitate to cut off the excess and reduce the air temperature to a greater extent by opening the windows as wide as possible. There is no need to dispose of the shoots. Their rooting must be done by lowering them into water. Fuchsia should be placed on a well-lit windowsill. If fuchsias left to overwinter in the basement should be watered once or twice every 30 days, then species overwintering in an apartment should be watered more often.

The central heating system causes the soil to dry out quickly, and low humidity levels cause the death of fuchsia. In this regard, on the first day of her appearance in the apartment, it is necessary to open the windows using micro-ventilation mode. Windows should be kept open at all times, except during periods of extreme cold. At rest, fuchsia is more finicky than when growing, since it does not have the best reaction to excess and insufficient moisture. Without the necessary conditions, at high levels of humidity and temperature, insects will begin to appear. Products such as fungicides may not correct the problem.

Usually fuchsia is left to overwinter at the end of the second month of the autumn period. The plant overwinters until spring.

Wintering indoors

If there are few fuchsias in the garden, but there is no cellar, they can be taken into the house or city apartment for the winter. When the air temperature in winter is above +18 ° C, in order for fuchsias to overwinter well and bloom luxuriantly the next season, the air humidity in the room where they are located must be raised. To do this, pots of fuchsias are placed on trays with wet pebbles. In the room itself, place an air humidifier or place containers with water. The air humidity in a room with wintering fuchsias at temperatures above 18 ° C should be 50-60%. If the temperature is lower, there is no need to additionally humidify the air in the room.

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How to care for fuchsia placed on a windowsill

The flower must be ventilated continuously, that is, it must be placed as close to the window glass as possible. It is necessary to insulate the bottom of the pot with foam, this will help prevent rotting of the root system due to cold air. It is necessary to protect the plant from dry air by covering it with a polyethylene film if the room is hot enough. Fuchsia should not be watered too often or too much, and we must not forget about treating it with specialized substances against parasites. In the first two months of winter, the flower must be illuminated with lamps due to insufficient daylight.

Methods for storing fuchsias

In order for fuchsia to successfully recover from winter dormancy, it is necessary to properly organize the wintering of the plant. This can be done in different ways depending on the specific capabilities of the grower.

Wintering in a basement or cellar

Not all flower lovers can afford to organize the wintering of fuchsia on a glassed-in loggia of an apartment or a bright greenhouse, but what to do in this case with fuchsia?

To store the plant in winter, you can use a basement or cellar. Before moving the fuchsia to one of these places, it is trimmed and the leaves are shortened.

In the dark, she breathes as well as in the fresh air, using up accumulated nutrients. The room must be equipped with ventilation. In its absence, air humidity will increase, and this will entail a series of fungal diseases.

The suitable air temperature in the basement or cellar should be at least +10 degrees.

Wintering in an apartment

Not all lovers of indoor flowers have premises where they can place plants for winter storage during the dormant period. For many, these are ordinary rooms in an apartment. If fuchsia overwinters at home, you must remember that increased attention should be paid to the flower during this period. Fuchsia during rest is more sensitive to care than during growth and flowering; it does not tolerate both excessively humid and dry air.

It’s good if the apartment has an insulated balcony or loggia. Here there is a good opportunity to create optimal temperature and humidity conditions for a flower without compromising the comfortable living of family members, which cannot be said about wintering on a windowsill.

On the loggia you can always use an electric heater to prevent freezing temperatures. There is usually plenty of natural light there.

If there is neither a loggia nor a balcony, then gardeners keep fuchsias on the window sills. If wintering conditions are properly organized in accordance with the recommendations of specialists, the flower will successfully overwinter at home.

Caring for fuchsia on the windowsill

During the wintering period of fuchsia on the windowsill, the gardener’s task comes down to organizing suitable conditions:

Place the flower pot almost close to the window glass, away from heating appliances.
Ensure constant ventilation of the room; to do this, you will have to always keep the double-glazed windows open at minimum ventilation and close them only on days of very cold weather.
When sprouting shoots appear, do not hesitate to remove them and try to further lower the temperature on the windowsill; for this you will have to periodically open the window a little more.
Insulate the pot with polystyrene foam to avoid rotting of the roots due to a constantly open window.
Additionally, protect the pots from the flow of warm air from the side of the room with some kind of heat-insulating material, for example, cardboard or plastic film.

In winter, fuchsia needs watering much less than during the period of growth and flowering, but it is necessary to water the flower correctly, avoiding excessive moisture in the soil or its drying out. The frequency of watering is determined by the condition of the soil. An important condition is that the lower the temperature and the lower the illumination, the less water is needed for irrigation. You can occasionally add potassium permanganate to the settled water to form a weak pink solution.

On the shortest winter days (December, January), when there is very little natural light, the plants should be illuminated with ordinary electric or fluorescent lamps, turning on the light for several hours every day so that the plant does not stretch. It should be remembered that switched on light bulbs heat up; this point must be taken into account when arranging the backlight.

In addition, it is advisable to periodically spray fuchsia with settled water without chlorine. And place wide containers of water near the window so that the air does not dry out during the heating season. Now there are modern devices for humidifying the air in apartments.

Do I need to trim and how to do it?

It is necessary to prune fuchsia before wintering. This operation is performed twice a year:

In the autumn, when transferring a flower to the basement or home.
In the spring, in order to create an attractive shape.

Fuchsia branches need to be trimmed to approximately 0.5 lengths. This happens due to the fact that the immature part is removed, and with it the foliage. You also need to trim the root ball to a volume that can fit in 2 hands. After the preparation has been completed, the bush is placed in a box. You can add wet moss to the box, which will insulate the plant and retain moisture.

Important!

You can avoid the growth of the trunk stretching by cutting it in the autumn immediately after flowering.

Fuchsia in the garden! Secrets of growing and propagation, storage in winter.

03.12.2016

Fuchsia blossoms are an impressive sight. Against the background of bright decorative foliage, delicate corollas - skirts resemble dancing ballerinas. The happy owners of the plant can enjoy watching this dance every year, following simple care rules. Fuchsia flowering period: July, August, September, October. Height; from 30-200 cm, perennial, shade-loving, moisture-loving. Description. Fuchsia (lat. Fuchsia) is a genus of perennials, represented by hundreds of species, included in the fireweed family. The plant found its second wind with the advent of hybrids capable of reproducing by seeds and blooming quite early in the first year. This allows fuchsia to be widely grown as an annual plant, especially given its long flowering period. At the same time, it retains its natural perennial nature; in winter it can be kept in a cool room and taken from cuttings in the spring. The root system is fibrous. The leaves are green, sometimes reddish, opposite, oval-pointed with serrated edges. The branches are flexible, young stems, and petioles have a reddish tint. The flowers are located in the axils on thin, long stalks. The drooping flowers consist of a bright calyx formed by four pointed, bent sepals, and a tubular corolla with curved edges. The petals are shorter than the calyx blades, the stamens with pistil are longer than the calyx. The corolla can be simple, semi-double, or double. The color of the flowers is pink-violet and includes white, pink, red or orange, cream or purple, even violet tones, sometimes one flower shows several shades. Flowering is abundant and long lasting. Fuchsia varieties can be simple, with single inflorescences, or racemose. Fuchsias of different hybrid varieties bloom in different periods, coloring the bushes as diversely as possible, so in the garden you can create a whole collection of these plants that bloom permanently until late autumn. The fruit is an edible berry. Decorative types. Over a long period of cultural cultivation, a large number of hybrid fuchsias have been bred with a varied bush configuration, from straight-stemmed to weeping, with abundant flowering. Hybrid fuchsia (lat. F. x hybrida) forms upright (up to 50 cm) or ampelous bushes (pyramidal). The flowers are bright and large. Upturned cups are white, pink, red. The highlight of the species is the differently colored cups and petals. Based on this type of fuchsia, a large number of cultivar groups have been identified. Growing and care. Fuchsias are thermophilic, with the exception of some hybrids, which are relatively resistant to frost. Windless, well-lit corners, slightly shaded, are ideal. Fuchsias can be planted in open ground as early as May. It is important not to bury the root collar when planting fuchsia. Intensive rooting and strengthening of the plant allows it to bloom in 2 - 2.5 weeks. Large biennial plants with a developed root system are used as tub plants for the garden. The pot can be placed in a recess or buried, leaving the top edge of the pot above the ground. In cold winter conditions, most fuchsias practically do not overwinter, so when growing for many years, it is not advisable to completely transfer the root system into the ground. Around November, the plant moves indoors for the winter. Choosing a location. Fuchsia is a seasonal plant; the period of active growth, flowering and reproduction lasts from spring to autumn. When choosing a place to place fuchsia, you need to take into account the main factors - lighting, temperature and humidity, and provide them. Fuchsia loves diffused light, moderate temperatures and sufficient humidity. Each variety has its own characteristics in terms of lighting. In general, fuchsia prefers direct sunlight in the morning, with obligatory shading, from midday until the evening. Some brightly colored varieties love sunbathing, while the sissies from the blue and white collection require enhanced shading and very careful watering. Another important factor for fuchsia is moderate summer temperature (16-22 °C). Its decrease slows down overall growth, bud formation, and provokes a period of dormancy. An increase in temperature (more than 25 C) is also unfavorable for plant growth, even to the point of disease; the flowers become very small and drop their buds. In extreme temperatures, increasing humidity reduces risks. Fuchsia genetically remembers the conditions of wild natural growth with a predominance of humid tropical air. Spraying with slightly cool water has a life-giving effect on fuchsia before or after a hot summer day. Fuchsias generally love any external water treatments, in the absence of buds and flowers.

Soil requirements. The undemanding nature of the soil allows you to plant adult plants in any light and at the same time fertile soil, preferably with a neutral reaction. The structure will be improved by adding high-moor peat, perlite, and sand. You can add clay that can retain nutrients in the soil. For adult plants, compositions made from turf soil, compost, peat, humus or leaf soil, peat, and sand are recommended. Soil moisture should be constant; watering should be done without waiting for the top layer to dry out, but also without allowing moisture to stagnate in the roots. Regularity and sufficient watering are mandatory during the growth and flowering period. Insufficient watering can cause leaves and buds to fall off and flowers to wilt. Overmoistening leads to fatal consequences at any time of the year. It is best to water in the early morning or late afternoon, at moderate temperatures. Formation and pruning of plants. The formation of a plant begins from the cutting. Fuchsias are extremely responsive and flexible in shaping. Depending on the type and the desired result, the plant can be formed into any shape - ampelous, semi-ampeloid, bush, pyramidal, or create a standard tree. In the process of pinching, you can show unlimited imagination, taking into account that prolonged pinching delays future flowering, because buds form at the ends of the shoots. The formation of the plant can continue after the first flowering. It is better to prune fuchsia at the end of the growing season - in early October, removing faded branches at a height of 2 cm from dormant buds in the axils, pests, excess seed pods and spent flower stalks. The second pruning in January finally forms the crown of the plant. 3-year-old fuchsia is prepared for wintering. Plant feeding Powerful feeding is an essential condition for growing a quality plant. In open ground, it is better to feed fuchsias with biological fertilizers. Their full complex is applied immediately after watering, from early spring twice a month, during budding and flowering - weekly. It is good to alternate soil feeding with foliar spraying of leaves. PLANTON S is a fertilizer for flowering plants. This is a fertilizer developed for gardening, which contains a complete set of essential elements for plants and is characterized by a high potassium content. I use fertilizer for flowering plants, in particular for: pelargoniums, balsams, fuchsias, surfinias and other plants; It is also recommended to feed during rain. Increases potassium content, improves proper growth and abundant flowering of plants, and ensures long life of flowers. This fertilizer dissolves well in water, especially warm water. I recommend watering once every 4-5 days with each watering, throughout the growing season, by watering the root system, and it is advisable to use it with each watering. One package is approximately 200 g. It’s enough for me to water 30-40 bushes for a season. When watering with this fertilizer, you need to make sure that it does not get on the leaves and flowers, that is, water at the root. PLANTON S - tested from my own experience, it gave excellent results when used, after application I noticed that young shoots appeared on those bushes that were even drying out. The bushes became more lush, the production of flowers increased and they became more resistant to drought.

Hybrid varieties of fuchsia Wintering fuchsias. Fuchsia gradually enters a dormant state in winter. A good rest allows you to hope for abundant, long flowering next year. To prepare for rest, it is necessary to gradually reduce watering, stop fertilizing, and move the container with the plant to a cool place with an air temperature of 10-15ºC, where the fuchsia will overwinter. During the dormant period of fuchsia, the presence of light is indifferent. Without light, limited watering is used in the complete absence of fertilizing. If there is light, maintain careful watering. Fuchsias planted in the ground for the summer are usually dug up before the onset of real cold weather and placed close to each other in containers, in conditions optimal for ensuring long-term dormancy. After the leaves have completely fallen off, the fuchsia can be moved to a dark room with watering once a month. Starting in March, fuchsia is brought back to life.

Ampelous fuchsia. Fuchsia cuttings. Cuttings are used vegetatively; this is the most reliable method. Fuchsia can be propagated by cuttings at any time of the year, but it is wiser to do it in the spring. Young cuttings are preferred, since woody shoots take longer to take root. Cuttings 10 cm long without leaves at the bottom are placed in filtered water or liquid substrate or sand. Cover with a bag or transparent plastic; greenhouse conditions are needed in any case. The roots of the cuttings may appear within 1-2 weeks. The cuttings are transplanted into the substrate immediately, with the appearance of the first young roots, without waiting for long roots. Bush and ampelous specimens are renewed by cuttings every three years.

Sale of rooted cuttings Diseases and pests, ways to combat them. Fuchsias are not very susceptible to disease. High humidity poses a threat of powdery mildew. Foundationazole helps in the fight against it. Among the pests, aphids, spider mites, and whiteflies are dangerous. Aphids form noticeable colonies on the outer parts. The leaves turn pale, curl, the stems become bent, and the buds remain unopened. To combat, wipe with alcohol using cotton swabs and then treat with an insecticide. At low air humidity, the reverse side of the leaves is damaged by colonies of spider mites in the form of specks; in case of severe infection, the leaves become discolored, they turn yellow and fall off. It is useful to spray the leaves more often; treatment with insecticides helps. Whitefly causes spots, yellowing, and leaf drop. The plant loses its decorative effect. Sooty fungus settles in damaged areas. The reason for the falling of leaves and buds is: - violation of the watering regime in any direction, - insufficiently bright lighting, - hot air, - a sharp change in position towards the light. The reason for a short flowering period may be: - winter keeping the plant in an excessively warm room and improper watering, - insufficient nutrition, - lighting and humidity during the growth period. Leaves with brown spots and yellowish edges are a symptom of waterlogging in the soil during the cold period. Use in landscape design. Hybrid fuchsia remains a classic potted plant, perfect for decorative flowerpots, hanging baskets and containers. The natural characteristics of the plant limit its use in flower beds and garden beds.

Flower propagation

You can propagate the bush yourself at home. Reproduction methods:

seeds;
cuttings.

In the first case, the “new” fuchsia may be very different from the parent plant, since it is self-pollinating or bees take part in pollination. When cutting from a shrub, it is necessary to cut off a shoot whose length does not exceed twenty centimeters. After the gardener removes the leaves from the bottom of the plant, the root must be placed in purified water. When young roots appear, the cuttings should be transplanted into the ground.

When the fuchsia grows enough, it needs to be transplanted into a larger flowerpot. Replanting should be done every year in autumn or spring, providing free space for growing roots.

Reproduction by cuttings

It is necessary to select a green apical shoot with two or three leaf axils. With a well-sharpened knife, cut the shoot at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. Then you need to leave the cutting for literally ten minutes. Large leaves (if there are a large number of them) must also be trimmed to facilitate rooting.
Next, you need to “spray” the cut with a root formation stimulator (for example, “Kornevina” is perfect).
The cuttings need to be rooted in a light soil mixture. Then you need to prepare a container and put the moistened mixture into it to a depth of three centimeters, deepen the cutting there and moisten it using a sprayer.
To increase the degree of humidity you need to use a transparent bag. You need to put a container inside it, inflate the bag, tie it, and then put the whole structure on a well-lit windowsill. In this case, there should be no direct exposure to the sun on the cuttings (the optimal temperature is 20-25 ℃).
Once a day (or even once every 2 days) you need to untie the bag for ventilation. If necessary, you can spray the cuttings and soil, thereby preventing drying out.
After about 2 weeks, small roots will appear. When the roots grow, the cutting can be transplanted into a small container. It is important to use light soil. The pot with the cutting inside must be wrapped again in a bag, which no longer has to be tied, you can only raise the “walls”.
After several days (up to seven), the bag can be removed, given that the plant is not lethargic. If this happens, it is necessary to create conditions that are even closer to greenhouse conditions. You need to spray the fuchsia, inflate the bag, tie it and wait for the plant to recover, not forgetting about proper care.

Propagation by seeds

You need to grow fuchsia with seeds in February, using light soil. You can buy soil at a garden store. However, it is not difficult to make your own soil mixture from turf soil, peat and sand (3:2:1). Before sowing, the soil must be compacted, moistened and sprayed with a pink solution of potassium permanganate.
The tray must be covered with cellophane and placed on a warm and well-lit windowsill. The temperature should be between +18° and +22°. It is important to ensure that the sun's rays do not fall directly on the tray. If the ground is wet, you need to lift the film several times a day to remove condensation. If the soil is dry, you should carefully spray the soil around the sprout (the water should be at room temperature). After about a month, small shoots will begin to appear. At this point, you need to start removing the cellophane from the tray for a long time so that the seedlings gradually get used to room conditions, and then the shelter can be removed altogether.

Important!

The seeds need to be laid out in a tray and distributed over the substrate, without covering them with soil, but only slightly pressing them into it. If this is not done, then without light the seeds will not be able to germinate.

When the second pair of leaves appears, the sprouts need to be planted in separate small containers. It is important to water the plant to prevent the soil from drying out. Spraying should be carried out from time to time and the sprouts should be fed with mineral fertilizers twice a month.

How to cut your hair correctly

Fuchsia should be cut short. Green branches that have not yet become lignified should be removed. They can be used to propagate fuchsias by cuttings. The same applies to crooked shoots, too thin or growing inside the bush. They need to be removed from the plant with a sharp pruning shears disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate. The remaining branches are cut to a length of 20-30 cm. After pruning, about 3-5 of the strongest and healthiest short branches should remain in the ampelous fuchsia bush. Up to 6-10 branches are left on standard plants.

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Caring for fuchsia at home in winter

The plant does not really need feeding, the main thing is to water it on time and maintain the optimal temperature (10 degrees above zero). The pot should not be placed on a north-facing window, as the flower will receive a small amount of light, which can lead to its stretching. The beginning of March is the most optimal time for fuchsia to awaken. Winter-resistant fuchsia can be left in the garden, but covered with a peat layer or dry foliage. And plastic film helps eliminate excess moisture.

Why you can’t send fuchsias for the winter without pruning

A radical fuchsia haircut in the fall is simply necessary. A summer resident may want to leave a plant that is still green, and possibly blooming if it was in a greenhouse, without pruning. But under no circumstances should you do this.

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Flowers on fuchsia bushes appear on the shoots of the current season. If the plant is not pruned, in the spring it will produce very few new branches, and, accordingly, the summer resident will not see flowering.

Possible diseases during wintering

In winter, the plant can be affected by rust, which occurs due to neglect of advice on creating comfortable conditions. The inside of the room should be warm, humid, and there should be little light. To prevent rust from occurring, it is necessary to treat the flower with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture, but this is often not done due to the appearance of dark spots on the leaves. Most often, both the affected plant and those standing next to it die. When rust appears, you must immediately save the plant using a mixture of five liters of water, 15 g of copper sulfate and 200 g of green soap.

Gray mold occurs when the air is over-humidified. When affected, parts of the flower become soft to the touch, and a white coating appears on the leaves. To eliminate the problem, it is necessary to cut off the affected leaves, treat them with specialized substances and change the microclimatic conditions.

Possible diseases

When fuchsia is in winter, it is affected by a fungal disease - rust. It appears due to the fact that the gardener neglected the recommendations and did not create conditions for a problem-free winter: the room is warm, dark and humid, and not dry and fresh. He watered the plant more often than necessary, hid it from direct sunlight and did not ventilate the room.

To prevent the fungus from infecting fuchsia, treat it with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture, but many neglect this procedure. They reproach themselves for this when dark brown spots appear on the leaves. In most cases, the diseased flower dies, and along with it other indoor flowers, if you do not isolate it from others and tear off the leaves affected by the fungus. Having noticed rust in the first days, they save the plant by preparing a disinfectant mixture of 5 liters of water, 200 grams of green soap and 15 grams of copper sulfate.

Gray rot affects fuchsia if the air in the room is over-humidified. It is easy to determine which part is affected: it is soft and watery, and white plaque spots are visible on the leaf blade. To cure the plant, the affected leaves are cut off, treated with special preparations and the microclimate in the room is changed to prevent re-infection of fuchsia.

How to avoid

Basic recommendations for organizing proper wintering of fuchsias, which will help avoid the occurrence of diseases:

the room should be dry, cool and fresh, but not warm and humid - this is detrimental to plants;
Both over-humidified and over-dried air are unacceptable;
“dormant” fuchsias should not be left without proper care - they require constant attention;
constant ventilation and an influx of fresh air is an indispensable condition for successful wintering;
unconditional compliance with agricultural cultivation techniques and care rules.

It is easy to organize the storage of fuchsia in winter, and it is not necessary to move it from the garden to the basement or loggia. It will overwinter on the windowsill in an apartment if you occasionally water and spray it, smoothing out the operation of the central heating.

Awakening fuchsia in spring

At the moment the flower awakens, the temperature should not rise sharply. It is necessary to gradually increase the temperature of the flower, moving it to places with different temperature marks. The room must be well lit, but the plant should not be directly exposed to sunlight.

It is necessary to immediately inspect the roots, due to the fact that damage may have formed on them. If there is damage, the roots should be trimmed, then soaked in water and stimulants, and the above-ground part should be sprayed with water. By adding powdered magnesium sulfate to the spray mixture (in accordance with the instructions), the gardener will help the flower awaken new buds. To speed up this process, the bush can be covered, providing a high level of humidity and prolonging the effect of magnesium sulfate.

General care rules

In order for an exotic flower to always please its owner, it needs to create appropriate conditions for growth, flowering and rest during the off-season.

Therefore, everyone is interested in how to care for fuchsia growing in open ground and at home in a flower pot.

Let's look at the basic rules for caring for fuchsia at home:

Watering mode

Fuchsia belongs to the category of moisture-loving plants. It responds equally well to both root watering and external spraying. The shrub should be watered daily in small portions.

A signal that the plant requires moisture is when the top layer of soil dries to a depth of 1 cm or more. But you should not overuse watering.

Excess moisture leads to the development of mold and rotting of roots. You can avoid waterlogging by creating a drainage layer at the bottom of the flowerpot. For this, expanded clay or well-cleaned pebbles are used.

Flower lighting

Despite the fact that fuchsia is a heat-loving flower, it is not recommended to place it in direct sunlight. For this plant, reflected light and even partial shade conditions are quite enough.

When choosing a location for a shrub, you need to take into account the contrast factor. Plants with dark-colored flowers need more color, while bright, light-colored flowers do much better in the shade.

Selecting a soil mixture

It is best to use black soil with the addition of leaf humus for growing shrubs. This composition will provide the root system with nutrients and give it freedom to grow.

The plant needs constant feeding. For blooming fuchsia, you need to use biological fertilizers with a minimum nitrogen content.

Fertilizers can be applied along with irrigation liquid or by adding them directly to the soil. When winter comes, the plant does not need feeding. It enters a state of rest when there is no need for nutrients.

Temperature maintenance

Despite the fact that fuchsia is native to hot countries, it reacts extremely negatively to high temperatures. When it increases above +25 ºС, the bush becomes lethargic, does not bloom or bear fruit.

In summer, the flower must be protected from direct sunlight. To do this, you need to put the flowerpot in a cool place, and create artificial shade for the flower garden.

If the gardener follows these simple rules, then he will not have to look for the answer to the question of why exotic flowers and fruits do not appear on the fuchsia bush.