Amaryllis: description, care at home and in open ground

In a state of rest

The rest period is 4 months. This is the optimal value for normal development and flowering. In this case, the following care features are observed:

1. Amaryllis care at home after flowering does not require much time. You need to choose a place where there is no direct sunlight. At the same time, you should not remove all the leaves so that the beneficial substances from them get into the bulb.
2. After the flower has begun to fade, experts recommend waiting for the peduncle to dry and, taking out the bulb, separate the young children from it, treat the existing wounds and remove the dried roots. Then you can plant it again in the same pot or store it in a cool place.
3. To protect seed material from pests and diseases, it is treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
4. When storing without soil, a preventive inspection is carried out every week to promptly identify lesions or prevent the bulbs from drying out.

Important! Planting material must be large and healthy

Amaryllis blooming

The natural flowering period at home begins in winter, namely in February or early March. However, large bulbs can bloom in April and even in May.

By following simple recommendations, you can regulate the beginning of flowering of the plant. To do this, seven weeks before the desired formation of buds, after a period of dormancy, the flowerpots must be brought into a warm room with good lighting and watering must gradually begin. In this case, the frequency and amount of water should be adjusted depending on the activity of leaf growth and the dryness of the air in the room.

Amaryllis dormant period

The dormant period of amaryllis is an integral part of the proper cultivation of the plant, as well as a necessary condition for abundant flowering.

Amaryllis should be prepared for the dormant period in the second half of summer. At this time, watering the plant is reduced and fertilizing is stopped. By the second half of autumn, watering should be stopped completely. At this point, the plant gradually sheds its leaves and at the same time, active growth of the bulb begins.

That is why gardeners do not recommend cutting off leaves that have not completely dried out.

Since the root system continues to grow throughout the dormant period, amaryllis needs to be watered once every few weeks. Amaryllis is stored in a dark place, at a temperature no higher than +15 degrees.

The duration of the rest period is at least eight weeks.

Amaryllis, what kind of flower, description

This perennial plant belongs to the Amaryllis family. Translated from the ancient Roman language, amaryllis translates as “sparkling”; this name was given to the flower by the famous poet of those times, Virgil. But gardeners prefer to call the plant a March rose for the spring beginning of flowering.

Home decoration

In the wild, amaryllis is found in southern Africa. According to the classification, the genus is a variety of lilies. Carl Linnaeus mistakenly attributed it to Hyperastrum varieties due to the obvious similarity of many morphological characters. Even now, some gardeners confuse these two varieties. But, despite the large peduncles, the latter have no smell.

Planting and replanting amaryllis

Since amaryllis bulbs cannot overwinter even at minimal negative temperatures, it is better to grow the plant in pots. However, in the southern regions of Russia, in the Krasnodar Territory, it is also planted in the ground.

Only in places with warm winters can amaryllis grow in open ground

Choosing a pot

The diameter of the pot for amaryllis should be 4–5 cm larger than the diameter of the bulb itself, that is, when planting, there should be about 2 cm from the bulb to the wall of the pot. The same rule should be followed when transplanting grown plants into a larger pot.

Pots for amaryllis are selected depending on the size and number of bulbs

It is better to take the pots themselves tall, stable, and for group plantings of several bulbs, use large pots. Since the plant produces a large number of children, group planting is preferable.

Soil selection

Amaryllis is undemanding to the soil - any purchased soil with neutral acidity will suit it, but for better air exchange per 10 liters of soil it is better to add 2-3 liters of coconut substrate and 1 liter of vermiculite.

Since amaryllis belladonna is most often sold as bulbs rather than as flowering plants, they are planted in soil or pots.

Landing

1. We pour 2-3 cm of drainage into the bottom of the pot; it is best to use modern material - expanded clay.
2. Fill the pot with soil so that the top of the bulb peeks out slightly above the level of the walls of the pot.
3. We place the bulb and fill it with soil, not reaching the edge of the pot by 1-2 cm for ease of watering.
4. Lightly knead the soil around the bulb and spill it with water.

In hot climates with very warm winters, where the temperature does not drop below +10C, amaryllis are planted in the ground so that the entire bulb is immersed in the soil, and then the flower stalks emerge from the bare ground.

Is support needed?

Flowers growing in the ground do not need support. When planting bulbs in pots, especially if the bulb is not completely buried in the ground, sometimes you need to put supports to support the flower stalk. With a lack of light, the leaves can also become frail and fall apart; they can be collected using circular supports.

To prevent leaves and flower stalks from falling, use circular supports

Planting a flower at home

Choosing a pot

Amaryllis requires a small but stable pot

Planting amaryllis begins with choosing a pot - it should be quite massive and stable. The flower is quite unstable due to its widely spread rosette of leaves and high peduncle. It can easily be knocked over with one careless movement, and sometimes a sharp gust of wind is enough.

The diameter of the pot depends on the size of the bulb. It should occupy almost the entire interior space. There is no more than 3–5 cm between the walls and the bulb. However, the deeper the pot, the better, because amaryllis has a fairly well-developed root system. The best option is a pot that is wide at the bottom and tapering at the top.

When it comes to the material the pot is made from, unglazed ceramic is the best choice. This container provides ventilation and oxygen supply to the roots.

Soil selection

If you plant several amaryllis in one large container, the distance between the bulbs is at least 10 cm.

The next important issue is soil. You can purchase any soil intended for bulbs in a specialized store, but experienced gardeners prefer to prepare the mixture themselves. Any soil is pre-sterilized by pouring boiling water over it or placing it in the freezer.

A self-prepared substrate may look like this:

• Garden soil, turf soil, coarse river sand in equal proportions and half as much humus.
• Garden soil, turf soil, peat, river sand and humus in equal quantities.
• Turf soil and humus in a 1:1 ratio and twice as much sand.
  Read also:  Soil for indoor plants: main components

  Drainage is vital for root aeration

A drainage layer at least 2–3 cm thick is required. Use expanded clay, pebbles, gravel, brick chips or small ceramic shards. Scatter them, in slightly smaller quantities, over the surface of the soil after planting. It is good if a large drainage hole is made in the bottom.

Cover the drainage layer with the same layer of sand. This is additional protection against stagnation of water and subsequent rotting of the roots.

Step by step process

Select only healthy specimens for planting

For planting, select strong, smooth bulbs with developed roots. There should be no dents, cracks, scratches, stains, or signs of mold or rot. Also, do not plant bulbs that emit an unpleasant sweetish odor.

1. All dead black, brown and beige scales are removed from the bulbs, reaching white or light green tissue. The future plants are then immersed in a deep purple solution of potassium permanganate for thirty minutes. Any fungicide will also work (the most common option is Bordeaux mixture).
2. After disinfection, the bulbs are thoroughly dried for at least 12 hours (it is better to wait a day). Individual areas that raise suspicions of disease damage are not cut off, but treated with Maxim, Fitosporin or ordinary greenery. The bulbs are dried again.
3. Soil is filled halfway into the prepared pot.
   Do not fill the soil to the edges
4. Place the bulb with the blunt end down and add soil so that the upper half or at least a third of the bulb rises above the surface.

   This is what a properly planted amaryllis looks like

5. The soil is compacted well, the plant is watered with water at room temperature and placed on the window.

Master class on planting - video

https://youtube.com/watch?v=KlpFXoDKai8

Transplanting a plant

The plants are replanted at the end of the flowering period, when the peduncle is completely dry. An annual transplant is not necessary - it is carried out at intervals of 3-4 years. Or sooner if you see that the bulb’s pot has become clearly small.

However, it is advisable to remove a layer of soil 3–4 cm thick every year and add fresh soil to the previous level.

1. 4–5 days before the planned transplantation, daily abundant watering is carried out.
2. Then the plant is removed from the pot along with a lump of earth, carefully shaken off and the roots are examined. All rotted and dried ones are cut off with a sharp knife, the cut is sprinkled with ash or crushed activated carbon.
3. The bulb is cleaned of rotten scales, the daughter bulbs are carefully separated and also cleaned. They then need to be planted in separate pots. Very small daughter bulbs (several mm in diameter) can be left if you want to breed this particular variety. But it is likely that the amaryllis will not bloom - all the nutrition will go to the embryos.

Before planting the old bulb in a new pot, feed the plant by sticking 2-3 sticks of long-acting mineral fertilizer into the soil under the roots (the most common option is Agricola).

Can it be grown in the garden?

To successfully grow amaryllis in the garden, the following rules should be followed:

1. Choose a suitable location on the site and planting material. The bulb must be healthy and without any damage, its roots must be well developed.
2. Before planting, you need to remove the scales from it and treat it with a disinfectant, this can be a weak solution of potassium permanganate or fungicides. You need to soak the onion for thirty minutes, then leave it to dry for one day. Once the bulb has dried, you can begin planting.
3. To grow a flower in open ground, it is recommended to choose a sunny area. This may be located on the south side or in a windless place.
4. During flowering, you should pay more attention to the soil and its moisture; if necessary, it is recommended to feed the plant.
5. The soil must be fertile and moisture-permeable. If these requirements are not met, it is recommended to treat the selected area with organic mineral fertilizers and loosen the soil.
6. The period of planting in open ground is May - June. When planting, you need to take into account the distance between flowers; it should not be less than 10-15 centimeters from each other. To straighten the roots of the flower you need to make spacious and deep holes. After the roots have been straightened, cover the planting material with soil.
7. Monitor the plant carefully, as in open ground it can encounter various diseases and pests.
8. After the bulb has been planted, water the flower sparingly. When the shoot grows to 10-12 centimeters, water treatments increase; during this period the flower needs more moisture.

If planting rules are followed, amaryllis will bloom in late August or early September.

Description of amaryllis flower

Amaryllis is a member of the Amaryllis family native to South Africa. It is represented by only one species - amaryllis belladonna, but with a large number of varieties and hybrids that differ in shape and color.

Amaryllis: home care

For your information! Very often, amaryllis is confused with its closest relative, hippeastrum. To recognize which flower is growing on the windowsill, it is enough to know the distinctive features of the first one.

Amaryllis has dark green, rather long, narrow leaves (50 cm long and 2.5 cm wide). The fragrant flowers resemble a funnel or a bell; they are collected in umbrella inflorescences of 4-6 pieces. Colors can range from white to red, including purple shades. Amaryllis blooms in the fall, as in its homeland, each flower fades after 6 days. The peduncle is very dense, 50-60 cm long, and is produced along with the leaves. The bulb is pear-shaped and about 5 cm in diameter.

It is very difficult to find an exotic plant in flower shops; hippeastrum is most often sold under the guise of amaryllis.

Therefore, when choosing a flower, you should pay attention to a blooming specimen with a pleasant aroma and a thick peduncle.

Note! In addition to its scientific name, amaryllis has a number of folk names, such as lily, belladonna or naked lady

Amaryllis inflorescences on dense peduncles

Amaryllis and hippeastrum - eternal confusion

Hippeastrum, like amaryllis, is part of the Amaryllidaceae family. But the genus of Hippeastrum is much more numerous - there are about 90 species in nature alone. And if you add selective varieties, you get about two thousand. Even sellers in specialized stores often get confused about these plants.

Differences between amaryllis and hippeastrum - table

Solving Common Problems

Diseases, pests and violations of maintenance conditions have a negative impact on the appearance of amaryllis, slow down the growing season, and often prevent flowering. Let's look at possible problems and solutions.

Care errors

If the conditions of maintenance are violated, the amaryllis looks faded and unkempt, the foliage withers, the peduncle grows slowly, with a small number of weakened buds.

Blackening of flowers

Cold, excessively humid air leads to darkening of flowers. To solve the problem, reduce watering and raise the air temperature in the room above 18-20 °.

Slow growth

Slow development is caused by a lack of light, moisture, fertilizing, and damage by diseases and pests. Normalization of care and treatment is required depending on the problem.

Bulb rotting

Bulbs rot due to excess moisture, pest damage and fungal diseases. The solution is normalization of watering, treatment with insecticides and fungicides.

Brown spots

Yellow-brown spots are traces of the impact of the false scale insect. Amaryllis is treated with insecticides and folk remedies.

Yellowness of leaves

Excess moisture and aphid infestation can cause yellowing of the foliage. Watering is reduced and the pest is controlled.

Diseases

Most diseases are caused by infection of bulbs and soil by fungi. Excessive watering provokes the development of amaryllis diseases.

Stagonosporosis

Signs of red rot are stripes and spots on the bulb, then on the foliage, orange-red in color. Treatment - bulb extraction, pruning, treatment with fungicides.

Root rot

Signs: deformation, spots on the bulb, wilting of the green part. Treatment - pruning to healthy tissue, treatment with fungicides.

Fusarium

The scientific name for root rot. The disease is caused by fungi of the genus Fusarium.

Pests

Bulb pests are especially dangerous for amaryllis. The infection remains undetected for a long time, during which time the damage often becomes irreversible.

Onion mite

The pest eats the bulbs. It is usually discovered when the green part begins to fade. It is difficult to fight the mite; the plant usually dies.

False shield

Brown seals and spots on the foliage are traces of the false scale insect. Treating with a soap solution, Actellik, Aktara will help you cope with the pest.

Aphid

Weakened, yellowed leaves are a consequence of aphid infestation. Pests are removed manually using insecticides or folk remedies.

Mealybug

A white cottony coating on greens is a sign of mealybug infestation. The foliage becomes sticky and deformed. Physical removal and insecticides help.

Thrips

Stripes, spots, and holes on the foliage are left on amaryllis by thrips. This is a common type of pest that is combated by double application of insecticides - Actellica, Karate, Intavira.

Spider mite

When air humidity is low, spider mites quickly multiply on amaryllis, which can be seen by the thin mesh under the leaves. Treatment – ​​insecticides, increasing air humidity.

Amaryllis mealybug

The white pest hides in onion scales, eating tissue. It is necessary to remove the bulb, excise the damage, and treat it with medications.

springtail

The white insect can be found on the soil. Destruction will require replacing the top layer of soil, treating with insecticides, and limiting watering.

Reproduction methods

Amaryllis is easy to propagate. Use 2 methods.

Seeds

Flowering with this method of propagation can be expected only after 5 years. During flowering, use a brush to pollinate the plant (transfer pollen from the stamen to the pistil of another inflorescence). The ripeness of the seed pods is indicated by their opening.

Seeds remain viable for 1.5 months. Sow them to a depth of 0.5 cm in a moist substrate. Keep it at a temperature of +22-25 degrees. When several leaves appear, the plant is planted in individual pots. During the first years of propagation from seeds, amaryllis should remain with leaves. It should be borne in mind that when propagating from seeds, there is no 100% guarantee that all varietal characteristics of amaryllis will be preserved.

By cuttings or dividing the bulb

A more reliable and faster method of reproduction. Babies are formed in healthy bulbs. Sometimes they release leaves right away. It is better to separate them and, without waiting for the flower to be transplanted, transplant them into separate pots. As the amaryllis grows, the container for the children needs to be increased.

Amaryllis propagation

There are three possible ways to propagate amaryllis - by seeds, by dividing the bulb and by children (daughter bulbs).

Use of seeds

You will have to wait quite a long time for results. Plants obtained in this way do not retain varietal characteristics and bloom 7–8 years after planting, but such bulbs age more slowly. With proper care, they will grow with you for more than 20 years.

1. To obtain seeds, the pistil is pollinated with pollen from the stamens of another amaryllis using a soft bristle brush. A “box” forms on the peduncle. When it cracks, the seeds are fully ripe. Usually the whole process takes about a month.
2. Seeds are planted almost immediately. With each lost day, germination rate decreases. The soil in the pot should be well moistened.
3. Then the container with the seeds is removed to a warm place, covering it from direct sunlight.
4. Shoots will appear in about 25–30 days. After another 2–3 months they are planted in separate pots.

Diseases, pests and treatment methods for amaryllis

There are a number of diseases that weaken the flower and spoil its appearance. The most common among them are:

1. Anthracnose. This fungal disease is characterized by the appearance of brown spots and streaks on the leaves and their tips. Most often, the cause of anthracnose is excessive watering of the soil and spraying of the flower. In order to cure a flower, reduce watering, remove damaged leaves and treat the plant with a fungicide.
2. Stagonosporosis (red burn). The disease develops with excessive watering, as well as frequent and sudden changes in temperature in the room. The disease is characterized by red spots that appear on the entire surface of the plant, including on the bulb.

   If they are detected, it is necessary to immediately isolate the flower to prevent infection of other flowers. To cure the plant, it is necessary to cut off the damaged parts of the surface of the bulb and rotten roots and treat them with a fungicide. For the first time after treatment, watering should be limited.

3. Gray rot. The most common cause of its appearance is excess moisture in the soil. This infectious disease manifests itself in brown spots on the leaves of the plant. Isolate the flower and then replant it in fresh soil. Water the flower less often, avoiding liquid stagnation in the ground.
4. Root rot. Appears due to lack of nutrients and severe temperature changes. Disinfect the soil with Fundazol and isolate the flower for a while, since the infectious agent can persist in the bulb for a long time.

The main pests that interfere with the full development of amaryllis are onion mites, false scale insects, aphids, mealybugs and thrips. To get rid of pests you need to do the following:

• if you notice that the above-ground part of the soil is rotting, reduce the temperature in the room, as it can provoke the appearance of onion mites;
• if brown spots appear on the leaves due to false scale insects, a solution of laundry soap will help, which should be used to treat the affected plant;
• if the leaves turn yellow due to aphids and thrips, treat the plant with a soap solution or Aktara;
• Wet wiping will help against mealybugs, and in more advanced cases, insecticides.

It will also be interesting: Lily tree - planting and care, varieties, names and descriptions?

Modern varieties

The development of modern amaryllis breeding proceeds mainly in 3 directions:

• improvement or search for new varieties with classic large flowers of double and non-double forms. I would like to mention such double varieties as Celica, Double Roma, Double Dragon, Ice Queen, Pink Nymph, Merry Christmas, Macarena, Promise, etc. Among the non-double monochrome forms, the varieties Black Pearl, Ampulo, Benfica, Exotica, Faro, are very interesting to my taste. Lemon Lime, Moonlight, Matterhorn, Rosalie, White Baby, etc.;
• searching for fundamentally new two- or multi-color colors, or adding new shades to existing ones. I would note such modern varieties as Charisma, Gervesa, Temptatia, Prelude, Misty, Clown, Neon, Estella, Santa Cruz, Papillio, Pizazz, etc.;
• search for new flower forms, for example, the so-called narrow-petalled varieties of amaryllis or “spiders”, from the English “spider” - spider. This group includes varieties Spotty, Santana, Grandeur, Night Star, Chico, Lima, Evergreen, La Paz, etc. All of them look very beautiful in group compositions, but single flowers, in my opinion, are much inferior to large-flowered hybrids.

Types and varieties of amaryllis

As we have already written, only the amaryllis belladonna species is grown indoors, which is represented by the following popular varieties:

• Durban - amaryllis with large bell-shaped flowers of carmine-red color and a white spot at the base of the petals;
• Parker is a variety with pink flowers and a yellow spot at the base of the petals;
• Ice Queen - double amaryllis with large shimmering white glossy flowers with a barely noticeable cream tint;
• Vera - a variety with medium-sized light pink flowers, shimmering with mother-of-pearl;
• Red Lion - amaryllis with large flowers of rich red color;
• Grandior - this variety has flowers with narrow petals, painted pink, gradually turning from a light shade to a more saturated one. Pharynx – yellowish-green;
• Nymph is a double variety of amaryllis with white flowers with a pink streak;
• Macarena is a variety with bright red, densely double flowers with white stripes in the middle of the outer petals;
• La Paz is an unusual variety with a red coating along the edges of very narrow green petals. The flowers of this variety resemble lilies;
• Hathor - white amaryllis with a yellow throat;
• Kyussian is a late-blooming amaryllis with dark pink flowers and a yellow bloom at the base of the petals.

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Growing from seeds

Growing a flower using seeds is considered a complex and time-consuming process that does not give a guaranteed result. When planting, you should take into account all the subtleties or the seeds simply will not germinate. To grow amaryllis from seeds you need to do a lot of work and choose the right equipment.

The growing process can be divided into the following stages:

Preparation for planting the selected seeds, this method begins with the transfer of pollen from one flower to the stigma of another. This can be done using a soft brush. To make the result more effective, the flower should be pollinated twice. Within three weeks after pollination, a seed box appears on the flower, containing about 40-70 seeds. The seeds are considered ripe when small cracks appear on the capsule. The seeds are small in size and have a dark colored skin.

Before planting the seed, carefully remove the peel and plant the seed inside.

Preparing the soil and pot: A medium-sized pot should be chosen so that the seeds are not too close to each other during growth. The composition of the soil for rapid germination should include: leaf soil and humus

The seed should be planted in a prepared place to a depth of 0.5 centimeters and sprinkled with soil. To quickly germinate seeds, it is recommended to adhere to the main rule: you need to maintain the air temperature from +21 to +24 degrees Celsius and maintain soil moisture. If all planting conditions are met, the seed will germinate in within one month.

It is important to know how to plant seeds in a pot correctly. The soil needs to be watered a little before planting. Then the container with the seeds is covered with plastic film to create a greenhouse effect and placed in a dark place where the temperature will not be lower than +23 degrees. After a month, the first shoots should appear. They can be replanted into separate pots only when 2 leaves grow on the sprouts. This will happen in 2.5–3 months. Keep in mind that amaryllis grown from seeds will take 5 to 8 years to bloom.

Reproduction

Amaryllis can be propagated by pups separated from the mother bulb and by seeds. Before transplanting amaryllis, you need to choose the appropriate method.

Branch of daughter bulbs

This is the simplest and most common method. The grown children are separated from the mother plant during spring transplantation.

First, they are grown in small containers with a sand-perlite mixture or sphagnum, and then transplanted.

In this case, the composition of the soil, the height of planting the bulb, and the capacity of the pot should be the same as when transplanting an adult plant. Young bulbs grow quickly and bloom within 2–3 years.

Amaryllis from seeds at home

Growing amaryllis at home is a rather long, labor-intensive and unreliable method. To obtain seeds, pollen is transferred from one plant to another with a brush. Amaryllis seeds ripen for about a month, after which they are planted in the soil and watered abundantly.

Shoots should appear in a month. Grown young plants are planted one at a time in separate small pots. Amaryllis grown from seeds bloom only in the 7th year.

Reproduction methods

Bulbous perennials are bred using generative and vegetative methods. However, the first does not allow maintaining varietal qualities. The second disadvantage of seed propagation is labor intensity and duration: you have to wait at least 5 years for flowering. This method is mainly used for breeding new hybrids. In indoor floriculture, preference is given to vegetative methods for their high productivity.

Seeds

The only important advantage of the method is that the bulb will last much longer and will produce flower stalks regularly. To grow a flower from seeds, you will need fresh planting material.

It is collected from boxes formed on the shoot after artificial pollination. The seeds do not germinate for long: only about a month. They do not need to be dried, because... this also negatively affects germination.

Sequencing:

1. The seeds are distributed over the surface of the moistened soil and sprinkled with a 0.5 cm layer of soil.
2. The container is kept at a temperature of 22-25°C under glass until germination.
3. After the seedlings have formed 1 pair of true leaves, the seedlings are planted in separate pots.

Bulbs

The most popular technique. Order of steps:

1. Select a large onion, remove the scales, and divide into 4 parts.
2. The cuttings are immersed in a fungicide solution for disinfection.
3. After half an hour, the parts are buried ⅓ into a special substrate and kept at a temperature of 22°C until rooting.

Children

When the time comes to transplant a flower, you can get a new specimen by separating the children:

1. An onion with roots is cut off from the mother specimen with a sharp, disinfected knife.
2. The sections are treated with an antiseptic in the form of crushed activated carbon or a fungicidal mixture.
3. The baby is planted in a separate container filled with pre-prepared nutrient soil mixture.
4. Move to a warm place to form a root system.

Amaryllis at home: what to do after purchase?

After purchase, the plant must get used to the new microclimate parameters. It should be placed away from the flowers in the house for at least 2 weeks . It is advisable that the adaptation site be in partial shade. Blooming amaryllis should not be replanted. If you purchased an amaryllis bulb, you can plant it immediately.

You will need a small narrow pot and a nutrient substrate. Before planting, you need to clean the bulb from dry scales, then treat it with a solution of any fungicide to prevent rotting. Planting is carried out in such a way that the upper third rises above the substrate. It should not be buried in the ground. Place the pot in a warm, bright place. You can water after the first shoot appears.

Wintering

At the end of August - beginning of September, they stop feeding the flower and reduce the frequency of watering. At the end of October - beginning of November, watering is excluded. From this moment the leaves begin to fall, and by the end of the season the stems are completely bare.

It is not recommended to artificially remove the leaves, since during the process of dying, all the organic substances contained in them are transferred to the bulb. Thanks to this, the nutritional reserve necessary for future flowering is created. If 2-3 leaves remain for a long time, they can be carefully cut off at the base of the bulb or bent down.

During the dormant period, amaryllis in open ground should be watered once every 15-20 days. Containers with bulbs are stored in a cool, dry (5-12 degrees) place (pantry, greenhouse, garage, winter garden). The flower does not require lighting when at rest. The bulbs are left in this form for 8-9 weeks.

Important! Planting material does not tolerate low temperatures. Even a short-term cold spell can negatively affect the condition of the bulbs

Preparations for wintering

Watering mode

Excess moisture can cause the bulb to rot. The next watering is carried out after the soil in the flowerpot has completely dried. The time and amount of watering depend on the condition of the plant. During the dormant period, it is not watered at all, but during the period of awakening and flowering, more humid growing conditions are created. Water is poured into the pan; contact with the water bulb is not desirable. Water for irrigation should be at room temperature and filtered.

Ideal: melt, rain, spring water. Chlorinated tap water is harmful to the exotic Amaryllis flower

Care errors

If you take care of the plant, it will have a bright and attractive appearance. But there are common mistakes that can be avoided:

• If the flowers are very pale, it means that the pot is exposed to direct sunlight. We need to find a darker place.
• In a damp and cold room, the opposite reaction occurs: the flowers darken, and sometimes can even turn black.
• Insufficient watering causes the flowers to droop and the leaves to become pale.
• When damaged by thrips or other pests, the leaves turn yellow.

Bulbous plants are distinguished by gorgeous flowering. But if their care is not entirely good, the plant becomes capricious and does not bloom.

Reasons for this condition:

• There was no dormant period for the bulb.
• There wasn't enough sunlight.
• Low room temperature.
• The soil is not fertilized enough.
• The bulb is damaged by pests.

If there are small children in the house, you need to remember that amaryllis is not only an exquisite flower, but also a poisonous plant. Its bulbs contain poison that African natives used in arrows. A tip soaked in such juice could lead to the death of a person.

Small doses of poison are, of course, not lethal, but as a precaution when transplanting and working with the bulb, it is better to use gloves and not allow children to participate in this process

Amaryllis Aphrodite will decorate any interior

Recently, interest in tropical plants has increased. After all, they give the interior of the house originality and special sophistication. Amaryllis can be considered just such a representative of the flora. How to care for it so that it blooms and no one remains indifferent to the bright buds - the main thing is that everything must be done with love, and the result will not be long in coming.

Features of seasonal care

Caring for Amaryllis during flowering and dormancy:

Optimal conditions for growing a flower

Suitable conditions for growing amaryllis at home differ markedly depending on whether the plant is in an active growth phase or has entered a dormant period.

Suitable conditions for the plant depending on the phase of development - table

Plant care

Watering and fertilizing

Amaryllis should be watered sparingly during its growth phase. Watering begins when the peduncle grows to 10 cm in height. The plant loves moisture, but categorically does not tolerate stagnation of water. It is better to forget about watering than to overdo it. The best option is abundant watering every 3-4 days. Another important point is that water should not fall directly on the bulb. Water only the surrounding soil.

During wintering, the plant needs much less water. Spray the soil once every 7–10 days.

Amaryllis is fertilized once every 12–14 days, starting from the moment the buds form. During flowering, the interval between fertilizing is reduced to 5–7 days. Any fertilizer for flowering indoor plants is suitable - Emerald, BIO VITA, Bona Forte, Kemira Lux, Ideal, Agricola, Ava, Living World, Rainbow, Reasil, Florist, Bud, Master Color, Power of Life. Give preference to those products that contain more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen.

You can also use natural organic fertilizers - a solution of fresh manure (1.5 cups per 10 liters of water) or bird droppings (1/3 cup per 10 liters).

Stop feeding when the leaves completely wither. When at rest, the plant is not fed.

Caring for amaryllis - video

Flowering period

In nature, amaryllis blooms in late summer or early autumn. But you can make sure that the flowers appear by a certain point; to do this, you need to change the time of planting the bulbs. If they are healthy and well developed, intensive growth begins immediately after planting. After 7–8 weeks, flower stalks will form. If there are more than two, it is better to cut off the excess ones at the base. Excessive flowering will exhaust the bulb too much.

After the first flower blooms, the peduncle can be safely placed in a vase. If you change the water in it daily, the flowers will last 16–20 days. The uncut peduncle blooms for about the same amount of time, but in the first case the bulb is depleted much less. The flowering period will be maximum if both the vase and the pot are placed in a cool place, protected from sunlight.

How to make amaryllis bloom

Only proper care of the plant will allow you to enjoy its beautiful flowers.

Why doesn't amaryllis bloom? Most often for one of the following reasons:

1. The pot is too spacious. The onion spends all its energy on the education of its “children.” Therefore, she rightly believes that there is no need to reproduce by seeds.
2. The bulb is buried too deep in the ground. This prevents the normal development of the peduncle.
3. Lack of nutrients. The bulb is greatly depleted during flowering. If you have not accumulated enough necessary microelements during the previous growth phase, do not expect flowers.
4. Lack of lighting and heat. Amaryllis is extremely heat- and light-loving. This is logical, considering where his homeland is. Fluorescent lamps can partially overcome the problem.
5. Many roots have rotted or dried out. In this case, the root system is not able to provide the bulb with proper nutrition, even if the necessary substances are present in the soil.
6. Missed rest period. After the flowers and peduncle dried out, the plant was not allowed to rest.
7. The bulbs are too young. Do not expect that only the transplanted children will immediately begin to bloom. This will happen in 3–4 years. And if you planted seeds, flowers will appear in 7–8 years.
8. Bulb damage by pests.

Having determined which negative factor is interfering with your plant, eliminate it.

Dormant period - how to “wake up” a plant after wintering

The dormant period begins only after the last leaf turns yellow and lasts at least 8–10 weeks. It is better to let the plants rest for about three months.

1. When the flowers begin to fade, reduce watering and fertilizing. By the time the peduncle dries completely (at the end of October or beginning of November), they are reduced to zero.
2. Dried leaves are removed. But you shouldn’t forcefully cut off the entire “crown” - the nutrients from the leaves will go into the bulb.
3. Then the pot is placed in a cool, dry, dark place. Since the roots are preserved, the soil is sprayed with water from a spray bottle once every 1.5 weeks.

A less common option is to dig up the bulbs, clean them and store them in cardboard boxes or wooden boxes. In this case, there is a risk of drying out the roots.

Using a little trick, you can force amaryllis to bloom twice a year - on time, and also at the end of winter or at the beginning of spring. But it is important to maintain a dormant period so that the bulb accumulates enough strength for future flowering. Give her a rest until at least the beginning of January.

About 2.5 months before the desired date, remove the pots with bulbs that are in the dormant period, move them to a bright and warm room and water a little. Keep the soil slightly moist. This is enough for the active growth phase to begin.

When can amaryllis be removed?

Amaryllis are highly valued precisely because their flowering time, by properly regulating the dormant period, can be timed to coincide with almost any desired date. But it is still better to do this from December to April for two reasons. These terms are more natural for this plant. In this case, the bulbs are less depleted and better tolerate this event, which, simply put, occurs for them with the least loss. In this case, your collection will bloom beautifully and almost continuously every year, and the bulbs will recover normally in the spring and summer. In industrial conditions, forcing for cutting is carried out almost year-round.

Reproduction, planting and replanting of amaryllis flowers

There are several ways to propagate amaryllis. Among them:

1. Vegetative propagation (includes dividing the bulb and separating the children).
2. Propagation by seeds.

The first method will require some skill

For propagation, it is important to choose a strong bulb. Without digging it out of the ground, cut off its top - the neck and leaves

Then the onion needs to be cut into four equal parts with a vertical cut.

Amaryllis propagation

However, depending on the size of the bulb, the number of parts can be up to eight. It is necessary to insert knitting needles between the lobes, and treat the cut areas with crushed activated carbon. Subsequent maintenance conditions should include watering as the top layer of soil dries, diffused light and a temperature of up to 28˚C.

Amaryllis can be propagated by seeds after collecting them. When the seed capsule begins to crack, up to 80 seeds can be removed from it. There is no need to dry the seeds after collecting, because this can greatly affect their germination. Sow the seeds in a moist soil mixture and maintain regular watering. For successful seed germination, the air temperature must be at least 25˚C.

When the seedlings form two leaves, they can be transplanted into separate containers.

To plant the bulbs, you need to prepare a pot, gardening tools and warm, settled water for watering. The pot must be larger than the diameter of the bulb in order for the plant to take root well. When choosing soil for a bulb, you should give preference to light and nutritious soil. You need to fill the pot with soil, make a hole in it and place the onion there, leaving its top on the surface.

The soil around the bulb must be moistened and watering continued as the soil dries.

As for replanting, amaryllis can be replanted either annually to encourage lush flowering or every few years. Replanting may be necessary if there are a large number of children or if there is no flowering for a long time. Following these rules will help you replant the plant carefully:

1. The flowerpot should be spacious, but the distance between its edges and the bulb should not be more than 3 cm.
2. The top of the bulb should not be covered with soil.
3. The composition of the soil should include: turf and leaf soil, sand and humus.
4. Before transplanting, sterilize the soil.

Tips and Cautions

Tips and cautions when planting or replanting a plant:

1. All procedures (sanitary pruning, dividing bulbs, pruning) should be carried out with gloves (the juice is poisonous).
2. The drainage layer is at least 2 cm.
3. Make 2-3 holes at the bottom of the container for drainage of irrigation fluid and air exchange.
4. Fill the onion halfway (at least a third should be on the surface).
5. Avoid getting water between the scales.
6. Water through the tray or along the edge of the pot.

Hippeastrum, in principle, grows in any fertilized garden soil. Some gardeners plant the flower directly in open areas, flower beds and flower beds. In apartment conditions, exotic is also not picky, but to support vitality, growth abilities and improve decorativeness, it is worth making a little effort.

Diseases and pests

With proper care and a sufficiently long dormant period, amaryllis rarely suffers from diseases and pests. But if this does happen, you need to be able to recognize the symptoms in time and deal with the problem.

Diseases and pests of amaryllis - table

Disease or pest Symptoms Treatment Red burn (stagonosporosis) Small red spots on the bulb or a border of the same color along the upper edge of the scales. Keep the bulb for 1.5–2 hours in a strong solution of potassium permanganate. Grease the largest stains with brilliant green. After 5–7 days you can plant again.Rot and moldRed-gray spots on the surface of the bulb. It becomes soft to the touch and emits an unpleasant sweetish odor. Reddish-brown spots and stripes appear on the leaves. Cut off the affected leaves at the base. Spray the bulb with a 0.05% solution of Bordeaux mixture (5 ml per liter of water) or with HOM and Fundazol, diluted according to the manufacturer's instructions. Spider miteThe leaves seem to be covered with a cobweb. Then they wither and dry. Spray with acaricides such as Oberon, Floromite, Kleschevit, Neoron, Nisoran. Onion mite Eats bulb tissue. The plant develops poorly and practically does not bloom. If flowers appear, they are deformed. The leaves turn yellow and quickly die. Remove the bulbs from the pot and immerse them in water heated to a temperature of 35–40ºC for 5–7 minutes. Then treat with Keltan and Rogor. A radical option is to place the onion in a hermetically sealed container and set fire to a tiny piece of sulfur in it. Wait 2 hours, open the container. Leave the bulb in the fresh air for a day. Thrips Tiny brown dots on the leaves in large numbers. Collect all visible pests, wash the plant, replant in a disinfected pot with sterilized soil. Treat with Agravertin, Fitoverm. MealybugDeposits on the leaves and at the roots, resembling small pellets of cotton wool, as well as a continuous layer of fluff glued with whitish mucus under the leaves. Wipe the leaves with a sponge moistened with clean water. If this does not help, use insecticides (Admiral, Aktara, Aktellik, Iskra, Komandor, Fitoverm). Amaryllis bug Its feces appear under the scales, damaging the bulb. They resemble soot. Use the above insecticides. Scale insects Dense scales on the inside of the leaves. Color varies from light beige to chocolate brown. Next to them is a sticky discharge, similar to sugar syrup. Wipe the leaves with foam obtained from washing-up soap shavings beaten in warm water. Aphids The leaves turn yellow. Collect visible pests by hand. Wipe the leaves with foam of green potassium soap or 20% ethyl alcohol. Springtail Small translucent worms are visible on the surface of the soil. Reduce watering. Remove a layer of soil 3–4 cm thick and replace it with a new one.

The most common pests and disease symptoms - photo gallery

This is how rot appears on leaves

Bulbs affected by stagnospora

Onion mites are extremely difficult to detect until significant damage has been caused to the bulb.

Mealybug is one of the most common pests

Springtails are quite easy to see, but difficult to get rid of.

Spider mite weaves leaves

Planting amaryllis in the ground

At the end of spring - at the beginning of summer, amaryllis is planted in the ground, where the bulb will gain strength and grow to produce a larger flower arrow and ensure more luxuriant flowering of the amaryllis. In addition, hippeastrums and amaryllis planted in the ground bloom longer than their potted counterparts, their bulbs are more actively grown by children, which will give you the opportunity to propagate amaryllis in the fall.

The place for planting amaryllis should be sunny. The soil on the site must be prepared for planting bulbs - enriched with humus and improved by applying organic fertilizers

It is very important that there is no stagnation of water, so a low-lying area is not suitable for amaryllis. It will be best if you place flower beds with amaryllis on a hill

Planting amaryllis is carried out according to the following scheme: the bulbs are planted at a distance of 30 cm from each other to a depth of about 15 cm. In this case, the hole should be of such depth that the long roots of the amaryllis can be freely located.

After planting in open ground, do not water the amaryllis too often for some time, otherwise the flower will devote all its energy to growing foliage, while the bulb needs Spartan conditions to form a flower bud - a certain moisture deficit. But there is no need to limit the plant in water too much. It is interesting that amaryllis, as a rule, bloom on a leafless stem, and the green mass begins to fade even before the peduncle is forced out.

When the flower shoot reaches a height of 5-10 cm, the amaryllis begins to be watered more abundantly. In this case, you need to ensure that there is no stagnation of water and rotting of the bulb. At the same time, you need to tie the arrows to a special ladder for flowers or to another support.

When can you replant amaryllis at home? Amaralis flowers replanting planting

Amaryllis and baby bulbs, what to do after flowering

How to replant amaryllis at home after flowering or after winter? The matter is not at all difficult, you just need to follow some rules and follow the advice of professionals whom you can trust. Next, you can find out a certain sequence of actions that can provide the most advantageous result.

• Bulb processing
• Pot for amaryllis
• Watching the blossom
• After flowering

Bulb processing

At the beginning of planting, carefully inspect your bulbs. It is necessary to remove all dry and darkened layers before white tissue appears; this will provide an influx of air and help produce the necessary chlorophyll, which will provide energy to stimulate the growth of the dormant specimen. Invisible foci of putrefaction may also appear there, diseases or young shoots may appear. Lubricate the damaged areas with brilliant green, you can also use Fitosporin. After cleaning, place the amaryllis bulbs in a suitable fungicide for half an hour, this can be saturated potassium permanganate or Bordeaux mixture. Then mandatory drying for about a day.

Pot for amaryllis

The most important thing is the right pot. It should be quite heavy, stable, wide at the bottom, and slightly narrowed at the top. These precautions are needed to prevent an accidental gust of wind or a slight snag from turning your handsome dog over. Naturally, use ceramic and unglazed, this makes it easier to breathe and ventilate.

Depending on the diameter of the onion, one or several pieces are planted, but at a distance of ten centimeters from each other.

The bottom of the container should have a large hole for drainage; a sufficient amount of drainage (expanded clay, small pebbles, pieces of shards) is immediately poured, then a layer of sand, which serves as an additional guarantee against stagnation of excess liquid. Then fertilize the soil, consisting of turf, humus and leaf soil; place your favorite fertilizer for flowering plants in it.

The soil for amaryllis must be selected correctly

• Turf
• Humus
• Leaf ground
• fertilizer

And only after all the procedures is the bulb placed with the blunt part down; it should be visible on the surface of the compacted soil mixture by one third. Planting Amaryllis belladonna ends with a location that should be noticeably warm and light.

Watching the blossom

What types of flowering do amaryllis have?

The process from planting to the appearance of flowers in a strong and healthy bulb takes up to two months. And you can admire arrows with three or five gorgeous colors. To ensure blooming lasts as long as possible, place in a cool room and out of direct sunlight. The third peduncle that may appear will not please you, since you will break it off to avoid over-exhaustion of the bulb; the same is done with the second arrow if the bulb is small or weak.

Recommended. After the first bud blooms, cut off the arrow and place it in a narrow, elegant vase, replacing the water daily. The next buds will bloom almost equally, whether in a vase or in a pot, only in this way you protect your onion from unnecessary exhaustion.

After flowering

Surely, many of you, while admiring the beautiful and exotic flowers, do not think about the future fate of your pet, but the time comes when the amaryllis has faded, you have no idea what to do next and, precisely, now the advice of experts will come at just the right time. After flowering has ended or you have cut off the flower stalks, stop abundant watering and replace it with the one discussed above. There is no need to trim the leaves yourself, because through them all the accumulated nutrients will pass into the bulb, which is very important for subsequent development. We transfer the pot to a dark place with a low temperature of +10°C (minimum). The rest period should last three to four months, otherwise Amaryllis will not be able to accumulate strength for subsequent development and may die after some time.